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Raja Ampat Indonesia www.garuda-indonesia.com June 2015 Raja Ampat Indonesia Salam Explore Travel Travel 6 Garuda Indonesia 46 Travel Trends 96 Victoria 122 Raja Ampat M. Arif Wibowo, President & CEO The chicest locations; the most Beat the summer heat. Hit the slopes Discover one of the diving of PT Garuda Indonesia (Persero) stylish events; our ultimate hit-list in Victoria, Australia, where the winter world’s great eco success stories Tbk., personally welcomes you. for the in-the-know traveller. ski season is just getting going. in Raja Ampat, Indonesia. 122 Travel | Raja Ampat Adventure photojournalist Tim Rock has been visiting the beautiful and diverse islands of Raja Ampat in Indonesia’s Western Papua for a decade. He journeys back with Colours to discover one of the diving world’s great eco-success stories. Words by Tim Rock Translation by Aila El Edroos © Brian J. Skerry / Getty Images Skerry J. © Brian Travel | Raja Ampat 123 124 Travel | Raja Ampat © Jürgen Freund © Jürgen Raja Ampat may well be Raja Ampat has put Indonesia’s once isolated converted for diving, providing all of the the hottest diving destination West Papua province on the world diving creature comforts divers need for trips map. Located in the eastern part of this vast that last anywhere from 7 to 14 days. on the planet right now. island nation, it is an archipelago comprising There are also a few land-based resorts in And there’s good reason the islands of Misool, Salawati, Batanta the islands. For those, speedboats come to and Waigeo. Dotted with tranquil bays get divers for a two- to three-hour ride for this. The diving can and roughly 1,500 majestic limestone rock to a rustic Raja Ampat resort. be spellbinding! islands or jungle-shrouded sandy cays, this destination’s incredible marine diversity gives Since the area is vast, ships usually take it an impressive wow factor. So much so that either the northern or southern routes, ocean conservation groups from around the both of which unveil their own epic diving world have banded together to protect and spots. Divers pay annual conservation fees preserve, as well as promote, this special part of roughly US$100 to explore here, while of the sea called the Coral Triangle. Indonesian citizens pay around US$50. For this, divers get a colourful plastic, The gateway city to Raja is Sorong, serviced poker-chip-sized badge that attaches to their daily by Garuda Indonesia flights. This port equipment. Many return year after year and town can be fun to explore. Take a morning sport a proud collection almost as colourful trip to the local market, Pasar Jimbutan Puri, as the reefs they explore. The fees are and watch as people lay out fresh fruits and directed to the operational costs of Raja spices for sale. Fishermen arrive by boat to Ampat’s five marine protected areas for sell their morning’s catch. And there are even patrols, administration, salaries and craftspeople who offer traditional woven maintenance. Funds also go to community bags and other West Papuan specialities. conservation and development programmes. Liveaboard dive guests explore The port here is the staging area for So what’s the big deal here? Well, aside the Four Kings’ picture perfect a number of liveaboard diving vessels. from the amazing natural beauty (Raja’s karst island outcrops from an Generally speaking, most divers board a limestone islands look like Palau on an even inflatable dingy. traditional Indonesian phinisi that has been more impressive scale), this region is home Travel | Raja Ampat 125 © Tim Rock, © Ethan Daniels / Shutterstock Daniels Rock, © Ethan © Tim 5 Senses – Sight PAGODA SUNSET A young monitor lizard warms itself in the sun on a Raja Ampat island beach. The Raja Ampat limestone islands are full of jungle wildflowers, blossoming trees and even wild orchids. Our Indonesian guide waits patiently for a hermit crab to peek out from its protective sea shell. up residence and make divers marvel at their If you have ever been on a camouflage. Add to this swift-current drift liveaboard in Sorong and looked The gateway city to Raja dives like that in The Passage, novelty dives like up into the hills, you’ll have is Sorong, serviced daily by Bluewater Mangroves where colourful red soft noticed a large pagoda with corals cling to the roots of mangrove trees, and many storeys. Get a ride up Garuda Indonesia flights. Killer Cave, where divers can surface inside to the main pagoda and follow This port town can be a stalactite-laden limestone cave, and you have a trail up to the top of the the makings of an amazing dive trip, where each hill where this main Buddhist fun to explore. dive seeks to outdo the last. temple sits. The local Chinese community built it and the A success story architecture reflects that. The Raja Ampat area is considered to be an Go later in the day to enjoy to more than 1,400 fish species, over 100 of environmental success story. And one driving force a magical sunset over the city. which were previously unknown in Raja Ampat behind that success has been a unique venture until recently and four that are new to all of called Misool Eco Resort. Located in the south on Jika Anda pernah naik Indonesia. Add to that 700 mollusc species the island of Batbitim, its visionary founders built rumah kapal di Sorong dan found in these waters. the sprawling entity entirely of reclaimed tropical memandang ke atas bukit, hardwoods. The owners, self-described as a Anda akan melihat sebuah Sheer numbers excite divers. Fish schools are huge passionate group of divers, conservationists, pagoda besar bertingkat-tingkat. and healthy. Sea turtles, manta rays and various eco-geeks and dreamers, milled the lumber Naiklah ke pagoda utama dan shark species are commonly seen. On one dive on site with their portable sawmill. ikuti jalan setapak menuju bukit I even saw an open-ocean denizen... a blue marlin tempat kuil Buddha utama casually crossing the current-swept Sardine Reef, Though only having been in operation for a decade, berdiri. Masyarakat China one of the popular dive sites in south Waigeo. it is globally revered for the conservation and setempat yang membangunnya The deep waters around Mansuar produce sightings education work it does. Andrew Miners – a veteran dengan gaya arsitekturnya yang of marine mammals such as dolphins and whales. of liveaboard diving and well acquainted with Raja mencerminkan itu. Jika Anda Ampat’s underwater riches – conceived the project mengunjungi tempat ini There are some mucky areas where the odd, ugly in early 2005. I first met Andrew and his crew when di sore hari, Anda bisa and normally quite tiny denizens of the deep take they were just working on the first buildings. We menikmati indahnya senja. 126 Travel | Raja Ampat Travel Tips Conservation programmes The people of Raja Ampat are aware of the value of their environment and the need to preserve it. Staying in Papuan-owned accommodation and employing local village guides will ensure the continued commitment of local communities to these ideals. Masyarakat Raja Ampat menyadari pentingnya arti lingkungan mereka dan berusaha menjaganya. Tinggal di akomodasi milik warga Papua dapat membantu keberlangsungan komitmen mereka. Support local communities by always purchasing a Marine Park Entry piece by piece, building Misool Eco Resort. Permit, patronising locally owned They scoured beaches for driftwood and logs that eco-tourism ventures and doing your There is no doubt Raja had washed out to sea. They are today rightly best to minimise your personal impact. Ampat will be a major tourism proud of the fact that they built the resort without Dukung warga lokal dengan cutting down a single tree, and all of the reclaimed membeli Marine Park Entry Permit, draw for years to come. With wood was purchased directly from local villages. kunjungi daerah ekoturisme mereka divers constantly visiting to dan jagalah kelestarian alam. Nearly a decade on, the island holds a still enjoy the vast diversity... small but thriving resort that can accommodate 32 guests in a combination of seaside rooms, private bungalows and a few villas. The dream of conserving the wonderful reefs has come full circle with a 1,220km2 No Take Zone that is fully visited Raja Ampat on the liveaboard Damai 1 and supported by the local community. A ranger patrol Andrew and crew were invited on board. I could comprising trained local rangers keeps an eye out tell they relished a brief respite from their daily for poachers and non-compliance. The resort and grind to enjoy some air conditioning in the ship’s its ongoing environmental and educational verve, lounge and a well-prepared meal from our chef. which has been embraced by divers worldwide, is one of the region’s great successes. I returned Saying no to plastic packaging, I was amazed when they told me of their project, recently aboard the Damai 2 and marvelled at what refusing any suggestion to dispose of and later they gave us a quick tour of their has been accomplished in less than a decade. rubbish over the side of your boat and property. They explained their determination to It is one of those stories of common, yet very taking your non-biodegradable waste only use recycled materials to create their dream. focused, folks joining forces to leave the world home with you will also be a great help. Andrew explained how he struck out on his own better than they found it. And they hope that Katakan tidak pada kemasan with the idea of creating a conservation centre to it will inspire others to do the same.
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