Overlay Ornament Match the Pattern Using a Curved Jig on a Scroll Length Instead of 10” and Turn a Separate Saw

drilled for eyes and mouth using a hemisphere to accept more than 3/8” diameter so you can’t jig on a drill press. Then the blank is sawn to choke up on the rod as much, then use a 5” Overlay Ornament match the pattern using a curved jig on a scroll length instead of 10” and turn a separate saw. Some slight carving is done to accent the wooden handle. sun’s features. Eyes are turned and inserted. A finial blank is hollowed convex using the hollowing jig, then reversed and turned. A hanger is made from twisted and then flattened wire to give a chain effect, and the ornament is assembled. The Cutting Tool Prepare 1/2” drill rod for the cutting tool by cutting it 10” long. Ensure the ends are reasonably square and bevel them slightly as in the top image of Figure #1. Select a 3/16” square tool bit and an I drill bit. If you use a different sized bit you can determine the round hole it will fit best into with a set of drill gauges as in the bottom image of Figure #1. Smiling Sun Overlay Ornament. Yellowheart sun, Maple cap, Blue shatterproof ornament. Introduction Figure #2: Center drill and drill a hole for the tool bit in the rod. Originally I was going to call this article Obtarsia Ornament (for intarsia on an orb). But Now drill and tap the rod for a set screw. I used I make a batch of ornaments for relatives and a 1/8” long 1/4x20 set screw. The cutting tool friends each year and the idea of making that should be able to slip through a 1/2” hole in the many ornaments with many little parts was too swivel post, which is why you have to use such daunting. So, I decided to use simpler designs a short set screw. Unless you frequent a very and a less ambitious sounding name. You well stocked hardware store, you’ll probably could, of course, use the techniques and jigs to have to order them from an industrial supplier. Figure #1: Prepare the cutting tool shaft and make a full intarsia ornament. I made a red- Use a center punch or a centering drill 3/8” from select a drill size to match the tool bit. nosed reindeer. Once. the end of the rod to start the drill. Select a #7 drill bit and mount it in your drill press. Clamp The design the photos will follow is a smiling Now mount the drill rod in a chuck for drilling a the rod to the drill press table and drill through sun. The link in References will link to patterns mounting hole for the tool bit. You can use a 3- the rod as in the left image of Figure #3. You’ll for a smiling moon, a smiling star, and a jawed chuck, #1 jaws in a 4-jawed chuck, or the notice in the image that the table is lower than menacing cloud, (I think of this motif as base jaws of a 4-jawed chuck. Choke up on the one would normally use for a bit of this size. Anthropomorphic Sky, but I’ll continue with the rod as much as possible. Use a combined drill This is so you won’t have to disturb the less ambitious names), as well as some heart and countersink, or some other short centering alignment of the drill head and table by patterns I used to personalize the ornaments for drill to start a well centered hole in the end of changing the height for the next step. Insert a my grandkids. The photos will show using a the drill rod as in the upper image of Figure #2. mini-tap guide in the drill press chuck and use it “shatterproof” (plastic) ornament, but again, you Then mount the drill bit that matches the corner to align a 1/4x20 tap as in the right image of could turn your own sphere. to corner distance of the tool bit in a drill chuck Figure #3. Tap the threads. and drill the end of the drill rod as in the bottom image of Figure #2. Some lubrication will help. First shown is a cutter and swiveling post jig It’s not necessary to drill the entire length of the that fits in your tool rest banjo. An overlay tool bit, as you can cut the tool bit in half. After blank is chucked with aids and hollowed to drilling the hole make sure the tool bit fits. If match the curve of the ornament. The blank is you have trouble getting a center hole started reversed and turned convex. The blank is due to vibration because your lathe isn’t bored This worked nicely, but the UHMW pad doesn’t last long. I tried turning a UHMW rod to 3/8” and cutting threads on it with a die, and this worked okay, but the threads were oversize, and worse, it snapped off after a few uses. The best solution seems to be threaded nylon. You can make the soft setscrew out of a nylon bolt, a nylon thumbscrew, or threaded nylon rod. I used 3/8x16 nylon bolts because that’s what the banjo on my Powermatic takes and because I had two. If you have thumbscrews and want to preserve the thumb operated part, you can chuck up the thumbscrew by drilling and tapping a wood cylinder and using a lock nut. Then mount in your chuck. Figure #3: Drill and tap for a set screw. The head of my nylon bolt was not finger friendly, so I cut it off. Mount the threaded Cut a 4-1/2” wide strip lengthwise from a sheet nylon in a chuck (collet chuck or #1 jaws of a 4- of self-stick 2mm craft foam. Roll it around the jawed chuck) and turn the nose round as in the rod at the end opposite the set screw as in Figure top image of Figure #5. I found that the nylon #4. You can overwrap the craft foam with duct did not thread easily into my tool rest banjo, tape. Sharpen the end of your tool bit to a round particularly the portion where I had extended end. Insert the tool bit in the end of the rod so the threads with a die. This was either because that the bit sticks out about 1/4” and tighten the the threads the banjo were gunked up, or the set screw. Buy or make a 1/2” locking collar. nylon threads were oversize, or both. If you You can buy one from an Industrial Supplier. have the same problem, then you can “chase” You can make one from any material that will the threads a little smaller. Select a small take threads. If you use non-metal materials use triangular file. Turn the lathe on in reverse at a a long (5/8” or longer) setscrew or thumbscrew slow speed (this way the file will run off the end with lots of thread engaged. Possibilities of the rod instead of into your chuck). Bring a include drill rod, plywood with a metal cross corner of the file into the bottom of the threaded rod to take threads, steel pipe filled with wood, rod a few times as in the middle image of Figure solid PVC, PVC pipe filled with wood, etc. Put #5 and test the fit. If you used a cut off bolt or the locking collar on the cutting tool. This threaded rod you can add sliding crosspiece. Figure #5: Make two soft setscrews. completes the cutting tool. Select a reasonably sized nail. Select a drill bit slightly larger than the nail and drill through the Swivel Post nylon about 3/8” from the unrounded end. Cut the nail to the length you want and insert it through the hole in the nylon. Wind a narrow First determine how long the swivel post should strip of duct tape around the cut end to serve as be. Measure the distance between the top of the a retainer as in the bottom image of Figure #5. Banjo and the lathe center. Measure the length of the tool rest that can be inserted in the Banjo. The length of the swivel post would be: (post length) = (Banjo to lathe center) + (tool rest post) + (3/4” for set screw) – (1/4” adjustment room) Cut a steel rod of the same diameter as your tool rest post to this length. Drill rod or cold rolled Figure #4: Roll on foam for the handle. steel from the hardware store will do. Lightly bevel the ends with a grinder as in the top image Soft Setscrew of Figure #6. Make sure that the post will fit in your banjo. If it does not you can mount the post in a chuck (#1 or base jaws), turn the lathe The cutting tool must be able to slide back in on to a slow speed, and use a file to reduce the forth in the swivel post, and the swivel post diameter. Any flat file will work, but did you must be able to turn in the tool rest banjo. With know that you can get files especially made for steel on steel, if the fit is loose enough to allow use on a lathe from industrial suppliers? A low movement then it’s loose enough to rattle about. angle lathe file doesn’t have teeth on the edges, This problem can be solved by using a setscrew and the teeth on the faces are at a steeper angle.

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