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Home , Gopuram, Hinduism in Singapore, Mariamman, Periyachi

BiblioASIA oCT – DEC 2016 Vol. 12 / Issue 03 / Feature

the East Company for land to erect a its finely wrought structures and ornamen- the focal point for Theemithi, the annual Hindu . tations belying the blood, sweat and grime firewalking festival that has been held on In response, the British authorities of human toil over a period of more than its grounds since 1840.20 allotted a plot of land along Telok Ayer Bay, one-and-a-half centuries. Time-Honoured where Telok Ayer Street is located today. The temple was last re-consecrated Temple Architecture Pillai declined the offer because the location in April 2010, in accordance with the Hindu was too far away from sources of fresh water custom that requires to be restored Most Hindu temples in resemble that are so vital for rituals. to their original splendour every 12 years.17 the temples of as they are Never one to give in easily, he continued to As it is today as with times past, each time modelled along the Dravidian style of petition the East India Company officials to the temple is renovated and re-consecrated, ­architecture.21 These temples are dedicated Temple allocate a new site.9 artisans and sculptors from South India are to various Hindu gods and goddesses, some In 1821, the British Resident William engaged to do the work.18 with more than one deity presiding in each Farquhar granted Pillai a site close to the building of worship. freshwater stream near Stamford Canal. A Place for the Community Statues of deities are placed in However, the Town Planning Committee had within the temples. The temples typically Design other plans for the area, and Pillai’s hope A Hindu temple is both a sacred and secular feature and statues, and the of building a Hindu temple was once again space. It serves as a place of worship as well inner walls are embellished with murals dashed. It was only in 1823 that Pillai was as a venue of congregation for social and depicting scenes from .22 finally given a suitable plot of land at South cultural functions such as celebrations of The architecture of the temples com- Bridge Road.10 The site is marked as “Kling festivals and marriages. prises three main elements: a Chapel”11 in the 1828 edition of the "Plan of During colonial times, Sri or entrance tower adorned with statues; a the Town of Singapore", first drawn in 1823 Temple also served as a temporary shelter mandapam or prayer hall for worship; and by Lieutenant Philip Jackson, the Surveyor for newly arrived Indian immigrants. It pro- vimanam or domes that indicate shrines of Public Lands appointed by Raffles.12 vided them with lodgings until they found beneath them.23 The temple that Pillai first built in 1827 work and more permanent accommoda- was a simple wood-and-attap (palm frond) tions. Historically, the temple also served The Gopuram structure. This was replaced in 1843 by a as the Registry of Marriages for the Hindu brick building, thought to have been erected community. At the time, only temple priests The gopuram refers to the pyramidal-shaped Sri Mariamman Temple is Singapore’s oldest Hindu by Indian convicts13 and craftsmen from were authorised to solemnise Hindu mar- tower at the temple entrance and is an Madras (now ), employed for their riages in Singapore. The temple panchayat ­important feature in South Indian temples. . Anasuya Soundararajan and Sri Asrina Tanuri mastery in plasterwork.14 The major part of or council of elders also helped to solve Its great height serves a purpose, acting as describe the architectural features of this landmark. the temple’s present structure is believed to marriage disputes when they arose. In a beacon for devotees from afar and allow- date back to another major reconstruction addition, the temple acted as the Registry ing them to pray or meditate in preparation between 1862 and 1863.15 The sculptures and of Deaths for until the civil registry for their entrance into the temple.24 The ornamentations added during this period took over this function.19 five-tieredgopuram of the Sri Mariamman were created by skilled craftsmen from Today, the temple has become a histori- Temple is perhaps its most striking feature the Nagapattinam and Cuddalore districts cal landmark even as it continues to serve and is a much-photographed icon on South “Do not live in a place where there are no shippers in Singapore.2 In deference to its It is not known which part of India of in South India.16 generations of Hindu devotees. In deference Bridge Road. 25 temples” cautions an age-old Indian apho- architectural and historical significance, the Naraina Pillai originated from; he arrived With each extension, repair and res- to the temple, the two streets flanking it were The five-metre-high gopuram, which rism. In keeping with the sagely advice of temple was gazetted as a national monument in Singapore with Raffles on the latter’s toration over the subsequent decades, Sri named Temple Street and Pagoda Street, faces east, is adorned with sculptures dhis forefathers, one of the first things that on 28 June 1973.3 second visit to the newly colonised island in Mariamman Temple has become a rich the latter taking the cue from the temple’s representing the divine trinity of Vedic Naraina Pillai did after his arrival in Singa- June 1819, and is the first recorded Indian physical repository of architectural history, pagoda-like gopuram. The temple is also mythology26 – , and . 6 pore in 1819 was to establish a Hindu temple Singapore’s First Hindu Temple immigrant in Singapore. Prior to this, ­Pillai for his fellow countrymen. worked as a government clerk with the In 1827, four years after the land The history of the Sri Mariamman Temple is British East India Company in Penang. Good (Facing page) Sri Mariamman Temple, c.1900. The three-tiered gopuram was a slimmer and sparsely decorated structure compared to the present five-tiered tower that was rebuilt in 1936. Courtesy of the National Museum of Singapore, National Heritage Board. was acquired, Sri Mariamman Temple, closely intertwined with the arrival of the first fortune favoured Pillai, and before long, (Below left) Three of the four vimanam (domes) marking the location of the shrines that house the statues of sometime in the late 19th century. Singapore’s oldest Hindu place of worship, Indians to Singapore, soon after Stamford he became a successful entrepreneur and Courtesy of the National Museum of Singapore, National Heritage Board. finally stood proud along South Bridge Raffles established a British trading post on community leader, and set up the island’s (Below right) The vimanam, decorated with sculptures of Hindu deities and capped with small pinnacles, have become more ornate and elaborate over the years, Road. The nondescript wood-and-attap the island in February 1819.4 South Indian first brick kiln at Mount Erskine (present-day with the last major facelift taking place in 2009. Photographed in 2016 by the writers. construction erected then was a simple migrants to Singapore, feeling displaced in Tanjong Pagar). He also persuaded several affair compared to the splendidly intricate a new land, brought with them the cultural Indian bricklayers, carpenters and artisans and colourful structure that attracts and religious practices of the subcontinent, from Penang and South India to join him in Hindu worshippers as well as busloads including the worship of Mariamman, the Singapore. Recognising his growing influ- of tourists today. goddess of rain. In Hindu spirituality, the ence in the Indian community, the British Located in the heart of Chinatown, “mother” deity is known for her power to appointed Pillai as leader of the Indian the temple’s elaborate gopuram1 has been protect people from harm and to cure epi- community in December 1822.7 a landmark for generations of Hindu wor- demic illnesses and diseases.5 Pillai was greatly respected by the early Indian settlers in Singapore, who sought his advice and consulted him on important Anasuya Soundararajan is a researcher at the National Library, Singapore. She provides information services to government agencies on areas such as culture, communications and matters. He, in return, strived to improve the 8 education. She has a special interest in the history and design of Hindu temples. lives of the newly arrived settlers. Because religion and spirituality were so central to Sri Asrina Tanuri is a researcher at the National Library, Singapore. She provides information the lives of these Indian immigrants, one services to government agencies on security, workplace safety and health as well as ageing issues. of the first things Pillai did was to apply to

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These three gods are responsible for the during renovation works and replaced with which still stands today, was designed and The temple also has shrines dedicated to temple is used by devotees to view the on- creation, preservation and destruction of figures clad in Indian traditional costumes.32 completed in 1916.40 The shrine of Sri Mariamman, the presiding deity, the goddesses Durgai Amman45, Periyachi goings of temple rituals and festivals. Also takes prime position directly in front of the temple 27 46 the world respectively. Three-dimensional entrance, holding a in her left hand. At the Amman and Kaliamman or , the de- within the temple grounds are a kitchen, staff sculptures and carvings depicting the three The Mandapam The Vimanam base of the statue in front of Sri Mariamman is stroyer of evil forces. quarters and a wedding hall with a separate gods and their many reincarnations embel- a tiny statue of Sinna Amman or Little Goddess, entrance on Pagoda Street. lish the four sides of the tower, presenting The entrance of the temple leads to a main A decorated dome known as a vimanam installed in the original temple by Naraina Pillai The entire temple complex is sur- in 1827. Photographed in 2016 by the writers. Temple Grounds a stunning visual tableaux of scenes from hall or mandapam, which is flanked by a signifies the presence of a shrine or altar rounded by a high boundary wall surmounted Hindu religion and mythology.28 series of square columns ornamented with beneath it.41 There are four such vimanam, There are two smaller and separate shrines by figures of sacred cows placed at regular In 1936, the three-tiered gopuram statues of deities.33 Along the north and and these are all located in the west eleva- scattered in the temple grounds honouring intervals. The cow, which is revered in Hin- was raised into its present five-tiers. In south elevations of the hall is an arcade of tion of the temple. Lord and Sri Aravan, a character duism, symbolises Mother Earth, strength, the 1960s, the gopuram was restored trefoil arched openings. The main design Each vimanam is an onion-shaped from the Indian epic the . The abundance, selfless giving and the sus­ and decorated with the elaborate sculp- elements of the mandapam are its colourful structure, decorated with colourful painted viewing gallery on the left perimeter of the tenance of life. tures and carvings that you see today.29 ceiling and the series of columns that give sculptures and capped with small pin- 34 42 Photographs of the original three-tiered definition to the vast space. nacles. Below the main vimanam is the Temple Milestones 1984 Construction of two-storey wedding gopuram show a slimmer and more The ceiling of the hall is decorated shrine of Sri Mariamman, the presid- hall; restoration of sculptures sparsely decorated structure compared with elaborate paintings, including that ing deity of the temple. The other three 1827 Opens as a small wood-and- attap structure. and paintings; extension of the to the present broader and more ornate of a mandala, a circular diagram that ­vimanam are located above the shrines vimanam; building of the new tower. The sides of the old gopuram also symbolises the sublime state of Nirvana,35 for Lord , Lord Subramanya43 and 1843 Brick building replaces the Sundara Vinayagar sanctum, appear to be steeper than the new one.30 and Hindu gods such as Lord Ganesha36 Goddess Drowpathai Amman44. wood-and-attap structure. which houses the Lord Ganesha Beneath the gopuram is a pair of heavy, and Goddess Saraswathi37. On the walls 1862 Major reconstruction of the deity, to replace the old one. –1863 temple takes place. double-leafed timber main doors that open along the temple columns and in the inner Shrines 1996 Addition of elevated viewing into the main hall of the temple.31 sanctums are hand-painted murals of 1936 Major facelift, including gallery; construction of three- Craftsmen from South India drew their various deities, always restored to their The main shrine directly facing the entrance construction of five-tiered storey annex with a separate inspiration not only from Indian tradition, but original vivid hues before each temple of the temple is that of the principle deity gopuram. entrance on Pagoda Street; also from the military traditions of colonial ­re-consecration.38 The highly skilled paint- Sri Mariamman. In front of her is a statue 1949 Minor repair works carried out, restoration and repainting of murals, statues and India. Hence, they incorporated Indian sepoys ers, who hail from Tamil Nadu, have to lie of Sinna Amman or Little Goddess. The including a fresh coat of sculptures. (soldiers recruited by the British in India), flat on their backs to paint the intricate statue is a small representation of Sri paint. dressed in khaki uniforms and armed with ceiling panels of the mandapam.39 Mariamman installed in the original temple 1960s Restoration and decoration of 2009 Undergoes $3-million facelift; restoration of decorative rifles, into the collection of the sculptures The original attap walkway that con- by Naraina Pillai in 1827. The shrine of Sri the gopuram with elaborate sculptures and carvings. statues, repainting of wall carved into the gopuram as well as on the nected the main entrance to the principal Drowpathai Amman, the goddess honoured murals, waterproofing and 1971 Addition of new statues and walls of the temple. In 1971, however, the shrine of Sri Mariamman was destroyed in the annual­ firewalking ceremony, is the strengthening of the roof, murals; removal of some sepoy statues on the gopuram were removed in a fire in 1910. A permanent walkway, second most important shrine in the temple. and the expansion of the statues, such as those of the administrative offices. Indian sepoys.

Notes to describe people from the Indian subcontinent. Over 29 Uma , 2009, p. 49. 1 A gopuram is the pyramidal tower erected over the time, the term has taken on derogatory connotations 30 Sanmugam, 2009, p. 13. entrance of South Indian Hindu temples. and is today regarded by Indians as offensive. 31 Liu, 1996, p. 115. 2 Liu, G. (1996). In granite and chunam: The national 12 Uma Devi, 2009, p. 49. 32 Lee, E. (1990). Historic buildings of Singapore (p. 65). monuments of Singapore (p. 114). Singapore: 13 Singapore was once a penal colony, and the first Singapore: Preservation of Monuments Board. Call no.: Landmark Books. Call no.: RSING 725.94095957 LIU shipment of Indian prisoners to Singapore took place RSING 720.95957 LEE; Sanmugan, 2009, p.17. 3 Netto, G. (1961). Indians in Malaya: Historical facts in 1825. See Tan, B. (2015, Oct–Dec). Convict labour in 33 Lee, 2002, p. 76. and figures (p. 17). Singapore: George Netto. Call no.: colonial Singapore. BiblioAsia, 11(3), 36–41. 34 Liu, 1996, p. 115. RCLOS 331.62540595 NET 14 Liu, 1996, p. 114; Sanmugam, 2009, p. 13. 35 Lee, 2002, p. 76. 4 Soundararajan, N. S. (1971). The history of the Sri 15 Liu, G. (1984). Pastel portraits: Singapore's architectural 36 Lord Ganesha is the elephant-headed god who symbolises Mariamman Temple. In Ciṅkappūr Srī Māriyamman̲ heritage (p. 126). Singapore: Singapore Coordinating wisdom and prosperity, and is believed to be the remover of Kōvil Makā Kumpāpiṣēka malar = Sri Mariamman Committee. Call no.: RSING 722.4095957 PAS all obstacles. He is a major god in the Hindu pantheon and is Temple Maha Kumbabishegam Souvenir (p. 65). 16 Sanmugam, 2009, p. 13. worshipped at the beginning of all undertakings. Singapore: Sri Mariamman Devasthanam. Call no.: 17 Liu, 1996, p. 114. 37 Goddess Saraswathi is the goddess of knowledge, Tamil RCLOS 294.535095957 SIN 18 Lee, 2002, p. 72. music and the arts. 5 . (2014). Sri Mariamman Temple. 19 Uma Devi, 2009, p. 49; Sanmugam, 2009, p. 15. 38 Yen, F. (2010, April 6). Sri Mariamman Temple unveils Retrieved from Hindu Endowments Board website. 20 Uma Devi, 2009, p. 49; Sanmugam, 2009, p. 15; Leong, its new look. The Straits Times. Retrieved from Factiva. 6 Uma Devi, G. (2009). Resonance: Songs of our W. K. (1998, October 8). Walking on fire for his dead 39 Tay, S. C. (2010, April 10). Brighter and better. The forefathers (p. 49). Singapore: Preservation of parents. The Straits Times, p. 27. Retrieved from Straits Times. Retrieved from Factiva. Monuments Board. Call no.: RSING 725.94095957 RES NewspaperSG. 40 Sanmugam, 2009, p. 14. 7 Sanmugam, E., et al. (Eds.). (2009). Sacred sanctuary: 21 The Dravidian architectural style originated from the 41 Lee, 2002, p. 76. The Sri Mariamman Temple (p. 10). Singapore: Sri southern part of the Indian subcontinent and consists 42 Liu, 1996, p. 115. Mariamman Temple. Call no.: RSING 294.535095957 SAC primarily of temples with pyramidal-shaped towers. 43 Lord Subramanya is the Hindu God of War. 8 Sanmugam, 2009, p. 10. 22 Khoo, B. L. (1972, November 24). Singapore’s Hindu temples. 44 Goddess Drowpathai Amman is one of the most 9 Lee, G. B. (2002). The religious monuments of The New Nation, p. 11. Retrieved from NewspaperSG. important female characters in the Hindu epic Singapore: Faiths of our forefathers (p. 72). Singapore: 23 Uma Devi, 2009, p. 49. Mahabharata. She is sometimes portrayed as the Preservation of Monuments Board & Landmark 24 Lee, 2002, p. 76. Mother-Goddess. Books. Call no.: RSING 726.095957 LEE; Ong, C. S. 25 Lee, 2002, p. 76. 45 Goddess Durgai Amman is the mother of the universe (1971, September 11). Discovering Singapore. The New 26 Vedic mythology is derived from the , a large and believed to be the power behind the creation, (Above) The original three-tiered gopuram (tower) was rebuilt in 1936 into Nation, p. 7. Retrieved from NewspaperSG. body of Indian scriptures that laid down the basis of preservation and destruction of the world. its present five tiers. This is a 1970 postcard view of thegopuram. Courtesy 10 Lee, 2002, p. 72; The New Nation, 11 Sep 1971. classical . 46 Goddess Periyachi Amman is considered as the of the National Museum of Singapore, National Heritage Board. 11 The term “kling” or “keling”, first mentioned in the 27 Oldest place for the Hindus. (1981, December 13). The protector of children and mothers, and is associated (Right) The five-tieredgopuram (tower) as it looks today after the temple Sejarah Melayu or Malay Annals written between the Straits Times, p. 10. Retrieved from NewspaperSG. with childbirth and pregnancy. She is recognised by her underwent a major restoration in 2009. Photographed in 2016 by the writers. 15th and 16th centuries, was used in colonial Malaya 28 Lee, 2002, p. 76. eight arms and fearsome appearance.

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