Key Objects Fashion Rules Dress from the Collections of HM the Queen, Princess Margaret and Diana, Princess of Wales

Key Objects Fashion Rules Dress from the collections of HM The Queen, Princess Margaret and Diana, Princess of Wales

STAR ITEM This apricot silk evening gown typifies the new, more feminine HM The Queen shape of 1950s fashions. The luxurious skirt, supported by layers of Evening gown, tulle, is enhanced by intricate floral probably Norman lace embellished with gold thread. Hartnell, early Silk flounces extend from the bodice, 1950s providing added volume and movement.

Lent by kind This dress would have been worn for permission of Her a formal engagement. Norman Majesty The Hartnell said of Royal dressing ‘As a

Queen Historic Royal Palaces © Her rule, ladies of the Royal Family wear Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013 light coloured clothes because such colours are more discernible against a great crowd.’

HM The Queen Worn for the opening of the New Zealand parliament, during a Evening gown Commonwealth visit, 1963. Norman Hartnell, 1963 Norman Hartnell was renowned for his intricately detailed beading. This evening gown of oyster-coloured Lent by kind duchesse satin is embroidered with permission of Her pearls, beads, diamanté and sequins Majesty The in a striking diamond pattern, with Queen bugle beads forming tassel drops, alternately in silver and gold. The

Royal Collection Trust © Her scissor cut skirt creates fullness and Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013 reveals further embroidery underneath.

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HM The Queen Worn at a banquet hosted by President Ayab Khan of Pakistan, on Evening gown the first day of a six-week tour of Norman Hartnell, Pakistan and India, 1961. 1961 This duchesse satin evening dress, with its theatrical waterfall train, is Lent by kind fashioned in the national colours of permission of Her Pakistan, the country where it was Majesty The first worn. The front of the gown is Queen plain in order better to display The Queen’s insignia worn across the chest. The slightly narrower skirt Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013 reflects the movement towards the more ‘vertical’ fashions of the 1960s.

STAR ITEM Worn for a dinner at the German Embassy, London, 1958. HM The Queen Evening gown Hardy Amies and Norman Hartnell Hardy Amies, 1958 were long-standing fashion rivals and both were patronised by Queen Elizabeth II. Amies was granted the Lent by kind royal warrant in 1955 and was better permission of Her known for the daywear he designed Majesty The for the young Queen. This grey satin Queen evening dress with its subtly gradated beading in an intricate fern motif proves Amies was equally accomplished in evening wear. Historic Royal Palaces © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013

HM The Queen Worn in Nova Scotia during a Commonwealth visit to Canada, 1959. Dinner Gown Hardy Amies, 1959 This exquisitely feminine gown of grey silk organza is embroidered with pink silk, spangles and bugle Lent by kind beads in a mayflower motif, the permission of Her provincial flower of Nova Scotia. Majesty The Queen

Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013.

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HM The Queen Worn for a dinner at Government house, Sydney during Royal tour of Silk chiffon dinner Australia and at a Charity function dress with Tom Jones, both 1970. Ian Thomas, 1970 The striking colour of this dinner Lent by kind gown is typical of the greater permission of Her freedom in formal dress which Majesty The emerged in the 1960s. The linear Queen silhouette, with only slight fullness in the skirt, is emphasised by the elongated sleeves which reach to the floor but open at the side to allow for Royal Collection Trust © Her the customary hand-shake greeting. Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013

HM The Queen Worn for Silver Wedding Anniversary, thanksgiving service, Silk dress and coat Westminster Abbey, 1972, and with fur trim several formal occasions in 1974. Norman Hartnell, 1972 This brightly-coloured, short, A-line dress and jacket is in keeping with formal fashions of the late 1960s. Its Lent by kind simple, single-colour design ensured permission of Her that The Queen was visible in the Majesty The large crowds that gathered for the Queen wedding anniversary celebrations. The fur-trim added warmth for the open coach ride. Historic Royal Palaces © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013

Princess Margaret Worn at Ascot races and at the wedding of the Princess’s cousin, The Grey lace dress Honourable Gerald Lascelles, to Norman Hartnell, Angela Dowding, both 1952. 1952 This was one of Princess Margaret’s favourite dresses and was worn on Lent by kind several occasions in 1952 and 1953. permission of Lord The boned fitted bodice is intricately Linley and Lady constructed in layers of grey silk net Sarah Chatto with grey leaf-patterned lace underneath. Nine layers of stiffened net create the fullness in the skirt.

Historic Royal Palaces © Lord Linley and Lady Sarah Chatto

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STAR ITEM Worn by Princess Margaret at a film premier in London and at a dinner in Paris as a guest of Prince Paul of Princess Margaret Yugoslavia, both 1951.

Evening dress, This glamorous party frock, with its cream silk satin plunging neckline and halter-neck Designer straps marked quite a departure from unknown, 1951 the demure style traditionally adopted by Royal women. More Hollywood glamour than Royal Lent by kind wardrobe, its risqué nature was permission of Lord widely reported by the press who Linley and Lady were even more excited to find the Sarah Chatto Historic Royal Palaces © Lord Princess smoking a cigarette. Linley and Lady Sarah Chatto

NEVER BEFORE Worn by Princess Margaret at the DISPLAYED Silver Jubilee Celebrations for Queen Elizabeth II, and to present a music award to pop group ABBA, 1977. Princess Margaret Princess Margaret was known for her Evening dress interest in pop culture in the 60s and Norman Hartnell, 70s and was often photographed 1977 with famous figures of the time. The dress’s long length and narrow shape Lent by kind contrasts sharply with the hour glass permission of Lord silhouette of her 1950s dresses and Linley and Lady the shorter hemlines of the 1960s day Sarah Chatto dresses.

Historic Royal Palaces © Lord Linley and Lady Sarah Chatto

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NEVER BEFORE Worn by Princess Margaret at the DISPLAYED Silver Jubilee Celebrations for Queen Elizabeth II, 1977. Princess Margaret Brighter colours emerged in clothing Evening dress in the 1960s and 70s and Princess Marc Bohan for Margaret took full advantage of this Christian Dior, new jewel-like palette. The designer 1977 of this dress, Marc Bohan, became artistic director of Dior in 1960 and introduced the ‘Slim Look’, a Lent by kind significant departure from the permission of Lord restrictive ultra-feminine shapes of Linley and Lady the 1950s, and made famous by Sarah Chatto Historic Royal Palaces © Lord President Kennedy’s wife Jackie Linley and Lady Sarah Chatto Onassis. This slim line dress, heavily embellished with a sequined floral design, also has a matching sleeveless jacket reminiscent of the collarless styles popularised by the Beatles.

STAR ITEM Although made by a couture house NEVER BEFORE this mini-dress is heavily influenced DISPLAYED by the‘high street’ designs of Mary Quant, demonstrating the counter- Princess Margaret couture influence on fashion at this time. The rounded child-like collar Short day dress and cuffs and playful ribbon tie are Marc Bohan for reminiscent of dolly-bird clothing of Christian Dior, the mid-60s. c.1979 During his time at Dior Marc Bohan Lent by kind gained a reputation for adapting pop permission of Lord fashion for haute couture, enabling Linley and Lady the house to remain at the forefront Historic Royal Palaces © Lord Sarah Chatto Linley and Lady Sarah Chatto of fashion while still producing wearable, elegant clothes.

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NEVER BEFORE Worn by Princess Margaret in the DISPLAYED 1960s.

Princess Margaret The antique lace trim on this short day dress is pont de gaze needle lace Short day dress likely made in Belgium and dated Designer between 1870 and 1890. Combined unknown, c.1960s with the short hemline and light weight fabric of this dress it creates a Lent by kind whimsical feel echoing more permission of Lord romantic trends which gained Linley and Lady popularity with the hippy movement Sarah Chatto Historic Royal Palaces © Lord in the late 60s and early 70s. The Linley and Lady Sarah Chatto short skirt or‘mini’ was one of the

defining fashions of the 1960s and several designers of the time, including Mary Quant, have since been credited with its invention.

NEVER BEFORE Worn by Princess Margaret in the DISPLAYED late 1970s.

Princess Margaret Coat dresses such as this were part of a wider trend for a more Green velvet coat androgynous look introduced by dress Marc Bohan Marc Bohan at Dior in the 1970s. Its for Christian Dior, double breasted gold buttons and 1975 deep green velvet provide a stylistic nod to military and ceremonial Lent by kind uniform. permission of Lord

Linley and Lady Historic Royal Palaces © Lord Sarah Chatto Linley and Lady Sarah Chatto

NEVER BEFORE Worn by Princess Margaret in the DISPLAYED 1960s and 70s.

Princess Margaret Marc Bohan at Dior was the elegant choice for film stars and royalty alike Fur coat in the 1960s and 70s, his high profile Designed for clients included Brigitte Bardot, Christian Dior, c. Elizabeth Taylor and Princess Grace 1960s of Monaco as well as Princess Margaret. Glamorous fur coats such Lent by kind as this were a staple of Princess permission of Lord Margaret’s wardrobe and she owned Linley and Lady Historic Royal Palaces © Lord several of a similar design. Sarah Chatto Linley and Lady Sarah Chatto

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STAR ITEM Worn in Mustique, 1976. NEVER BEFORE DISPLAYED Fashioned from luxurious Indian sari silk, this ensemble was designed by Princess Margaret costume designer Carl Toms for a fancy dress party held on the island Kaftan and turban of Mustique. Carl Toms, 1976 Kaftans and turbans were often worn by the Princess in the 1970s as Lent by kind ‘ethnic’ clothing flooded into permission of Lord fashionable London boutiques, and Linley and Lady were perfect garments for the hotter Sarah Chatto climate of her Caribbean residence.

Diana, Princess of Worn during a royal tour of Saudi Wales Arabia with Charles, Prince of Wales, 1986. Evening dress Bruce Oldfield, When designing dresses for a royal 1986 tour, the customs of the host country must be considered. This striking evening gown by London based Lent by kind designer Bruce Oldfield is highly permission of fashionable with its wide shoulders Linda Sarna and and dropped waist whilst being Roberta Hurtig modest in its design with long Historic Royal Palaces © Linda sleeves, a high neckline and full- Sarna and Roberta Hurtig length skirt making it appropriate for

Saudi Arabia, where it was first worn.

NEVER BEFORE Worn for a dinner given by the Mayor DISPLAYED of Florence, during a visit to Italy, 1985. Diana, Princess of Jacques Azagury trained in London Wales and became famous in the 1980s with his ‘New Romantics’ collection. Dance dress This dance dress of synthetic velvet Jacques Azagury, embroidered with sequins and glass 1985 beads includes several key 1980s trends with its padded shoulders, Lent by kind dropped waist and oversize permission of ‘romantic’ bow. The dress was PEOPLE Historic Royal Palaces © PEOPLE bought at the 1997 charity auction of Magazine / Time Inc. Magazine/Time Diana’s dresses at Christies, New Inc. York by PEOPLE magazine, who featured The Princess on their front cover 57 times.

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Diana, Princess of Worn for a state banquet in Kyoto, Wales during a royal visit to Japan, 1986.

Evening dress Referencing the occasion in the Zandra Rhodes, design of garments has long been a 1986 tradition of the royal wardrobe. On their 1986 royal tour of Japan, every movement of the young Prince and From the Royal Princess of Wales was captured by Ceremonial Dress the press. The striking colour of this Collection of sparkling shimmering evening dress Historic Royal by Zandra Rhodes references the Palaces cherry blossom in flower at the time Historic Royal Palaces © Historic of the royal visit. Royal Palaces

STAR ITEM Worn at Claridges Hotel, London for NEVER BEFORE a dinner given for the President of DISPLAYED Greece in 1986.

Diana, Princess of London designer Murray Arbeid Wales created evening dresses with the drama and glamour of Milan and Evening dress Paris couture for Princess Diana in Murray Arbeid, her new role as the Princess of 1986 Wales. This midnight blue strapless evening gown with its theatrical fish- Lent by kind tail skirt of multiple layers of tulle permission of creates drama whilst flattering the Historic Royal Palaces © Collector/ figure. Collector/ Designer Pat Kerr (Mrs Designer Pat Kerr John Tigrett) (Mrs John Tigrett)

Diana, Princess of Worn at a banquet given by Wales President Collor at the Itamaraty Palace whilst on a State visit to Evening dress Brazil, 1991. Catherine Walker, 1991 Moving into the 1990s, Princess Diana adopted a more streamline and sophisticated look in keeping with From the Royal changing fashions and often wore Ceremonial Dress asymmetrical dresses with a single Collection of sleeve. Historic Royal Palaces

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