Local Pilgrimage in Java and Madura: Why Is It Booming? Pilgrimage to the Tombs of Muslim Saints in Java and Madura Is Booming
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> Research & Reports Local Pilgrimage in Java and Madura: why is it booming? Pilgrimage to the tombs of Muslim saints in Java and Madura is booming. The scale of the Research > boom is difficult to measure and the reasons for it are not easy to discern, but its reality is Indonesia undeniable. It is becoming a significant part of Indonesia’s rapidly changing religious The steady rise in the number of pilgrims acknowledge that God is all-powerful and landscape. It is even important in the country’s political life. undertaking the hajj to the Holy Land the source of all things. As a good Mus- probably flows on into local pilgrimage. lim surely this is what I should do.’ By George Quinn Before and after performing the hajj many Indonesian Muslims make visits Allied with the dead vidence of increase in pilgrim num- to the tombs of local saints as part of the From time immemorial Java’s rulers Ebers is mostly anecdotal – statistics totality of the hajj experience. With a cur- have legitimated their authority through that permit comparison of numbers rent cap of 205,000 on the number of alliances with the dead forged at holy over extended periods are almost impos- Indonesians permitted to undertake the places. Since the presidency of inveter- sible to come by. The custodian’s office hajj, it is also possible that some pilgrims ate pilgrim Abdurrahman Wahid (1999- at the tomb of the saint Sunan Bonang who miss out – estimated at around 2001), this ancient practice has assumed in the centre of Tuban, East Java, is one 30,000 during the 2003 hajj season – a dramatically higher profile in Indone- of the few that has kept some reasonably may make a local pilgrimage as a substi- sia’s political life. The new centre of this reliable figures. When I visited the tomb tute for the ‘real thing’. Certainly for practice is the imposing mausoleum of in July 1997 custodial staff told me that some of the many millions of Indone- Indonesia’s founding President pilgrim numbers had been increasing sians who cannot afford to undertake the Soekarno in Blitar, East Java. at a rate of between 10 and 20 per cent hajj, local pilgrimage may be a kind of for the previous five years, culminating umrah or ‘lesser’ pilgrimage. Between April and October this year, in a total of 526,268 visitors in 1996. during six months of incessant elec- When I visited the tomb again in … and money tioneering, Indonesia’s President November 2003, staff assured me that author of Courtesy Many pilgrims frequent holy places in Megawati Soekarnoputri made pilgrim- visitor numbers had topped one million Site custodians (juru kunci) await pilgrims at the tomb of Ki Ageng Gribig, Jatinom, Central Java order to plead for specific personal age visits to the tomb of her father no in 2002. favours (ngalap berkah). They may ask fewer than seven times. Twice she took in some way. One reason for this is the those prepared to make accommoda- for help with health problems or strait- her vice-presidential running mate Other sites claim similar increases, take-over of many sites by government tions with local beliefs and practices, vis- ened financial circumstances, with Hasyim Muzadi, and on one occasion though the figures are decidedly rubbery. agencies which then require that the iting the tomb of a revered saint is an act employment, promotion, business, was accompanied on a late-night visit by In 1987 a total of 341,385 people visited sites be equally open to all citizens. East of sunnah piety sanctioned by tradition study, fertility, personal relationships ex-president Abdurrahman Wahid. She the Great Mosque at Demak with its adja- Java’s Archeological Service (Dinas Pur- and explicitly urged upon Muslims by and harvests. Very often pilgrims try to paid a final visit to her father’s tomb cent holy graves. By the year 2000 this bakala), for example, has a hand in the verses in the Qur’an as well as by the negotiate a ‘transaction’ or contract three weeks after her defeat in the sec- had jumped to 606,918 people. In the administration of five of the tombs of words of the Prophet. (nadar, nadhar or nazar) with a saint, ond round of the election. same year around one and a half million Java’s renowned Nine Saints (Wali vowing to ‘repay’ the saint in some way people are said to have visited the tomb Sanga) as well as other sites as disparate The Qur’anic verse most often cited in if a wish is granted. At least twice during the presidential of Sunan Kalijaga at nearby Kadilangu. as the tombs of Batoro Katong in justification of pilgrimage is Al-Ma’idah campaign, Megawati’s opponent Susilo In 1997, a million visitors were claimed Ponorogo, Putri Cempa in Trowulan and 35 which exhorts believers to seek ways There seems to be a widespread per- Bambang Yudhoyono visited the tomb for the tomb of Sunan Gunung Jati in Ratu Ibu near Arosbaya in Madura. and means to bring themselves closer to ception that economic success is never of his father in Pacitan, East Java. He Cirebon and in the same year an average God. This is interpreted as permitting wholly a result of individual initiative or also paid his respects – twice – to Sarwo of 1,000 visitors a day were coming to the More powerful still are the brute forces believers to seek tawassul, that is, inter- plain hard work. Wealth comes from Edhie Wibowo, his late father-in-law and tomb of Sunan Giri in Gresik. When I of commercialism. With the rise of mass cession by the Prophet or by another fig- God, or from the fecund realm of the one-time senior general in the Indone- visited the latter two sites last year, staff pilgrimage, communities in and around ure ‘close to God’ on behalf of the believ- supernatural. During the prosperous sian armed forces who lies buried in assured me that visitor numbers were pilgrimage sites are relying more and er. In order to accomplish this, pilgrims years of President Soeharto’s New Order Purworejo, Central Java. Two weeks after well above the 1997 figures. more on pilgrims as a prime source of say, believers may petition God and the holy places were filled with pilgrims his election victory he made a thanks- income. Local people may work as Prophet by way of prayers to a local saint. expressing gratitude for their prosperi- giving pilgrimage to President A principal reason for these increases is guides, provide hospitality services or ty but since 1998 Indonesia’s protract- Soekarno’s tomb in Blitar, just four days that over the past three decades access sell souvenirs. Much of a site’s income On several occasions pilgrims have ed recession seems to have brought before Megawati’s final visit. to sites has improved. Roads, even to comes from ‘voluntary’ contributions or quoted to me the well-known and well- equally large numbers of pilgrims to remote sites, are now sealed and often alms (sedekah) sometimes aggressively authenticated hadith from the Sahih holy places to plead for solutions to their When Clifford Geertz published his served by public transport. Many places demanded of pilgrims at many points in Muslim in which the Prophet is report- economic problems. agenda-setting Religion of Java in 1960 now boast spacious parking areas, eater- the visitation process. ed to have said ‘Visit graves, for that he made no mention of the pilgrimage ies and nearby losmen or hotel accom- makes you mindful of death’ (Sahih For some Muslims the veneration of phenomenon. Today, it is a facet of Java’s modation. In the early 1990s when I Indonesia’s decentralisation is placing Muslim Book 4, number 2130). It is God, or God’s saints, for self-enrichment religious, social and political life that can first visited Kahyangan – a magically pressure on local administrations to often said that the Shafei school of law, is impious and possibly idolatrous. When no longer be overlooked. < beautiful holy place in the hills to the maximise local sources of revenue and which dominates almost exclusively in I questioned one pilgrim about this he south of Tirtomoyo in Central Java – pilgrimage sites are being targeted. Indonesia, classifies the visiting of answered: ‘If I did not ask God, or His General references there was no vehicular access. Pilgrims Some sites now have box offices at their graves as ‘recommended’ (mandub, mus- saints, for the things I need, wouldn’t it - Chambert-Loir, Henri and Anthony Reid, had to walk about two kilometres along entrances. Visitors are required to buy tahabb), though religious scholars in be an act of arrogance on my part? By eds., 2002. The Potent Dead: Ancestors, a rough, steep track to reach the site. entry tickets, the revenue from which Indonesia sometimes add conditions to asking God for wealth, good health and Saints and Heroes in Contemporary Indone- Long-stay visitors (apart from those who may go largely, or entirely, to the local this recommendation. a beautiful wife I am doing no more than sia. Sydney/Honolulu: Asian Studies Asso- were fasting during their stay) had to government. As part of this process ciation of Australia in association with return along the track to a nearby village some local governments are encourag- Allen & Unwin and The University of to buy food. Today a sealed road runs ing, even directly investing in, the devel- Hawai’i Press. right to the site’s entrance where there opment of holy places as tourist attrac- - Chamber-Loir, Henri and Claude Guillot, is also a parking area.