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Relationships Between Flavour and Chemical Composition Of Relationships between flavour and chemical composition of Abondance cheese derived from different types of pastures Christophe Bugaud, S Buchin, Agnès Hauwuy, Jean-Baptiste Coulon To cite this version: Christophe Bugaud, S Buchin, Agnès Hauwuy, Jean-Baptiste Coulon. Relationships between flavour and chemical composition of Abondance cheese derived from different types of pastures. Le Lait, INRA Editions, 2001, 81 (6), pp.757-773. 10.1051/lait:2001162. hal-00895376 HAL Id: hal-00895376 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00895376 Submitted on 1 Jan 2001 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. Lait 81 (2001) 757-773 757 © INRA, EDP Sciences, 2001 Original article Relationships between flavour and chemical composition of Abondance cheese derived from different types of pastures Christophe BUGAUDa, Solange BUCHINa*, Agnès HAUWUYb, Jean-Baptiste COULONc a Technologie et Analyses Laitières, INRA, BP 89, 39801 Poligny Cedex, France b Groupement d’Intérêt Scientifique des Alpes du Nord, 11 rue Métropole, 73000 Chambéry, France c Unité de Recherches sur les Herbivores, INRA, Theix, 63122 Saint-Genès-Champanelle, France (Received 12 February 2001; accepted 24 April 2001) Abstract — The relationships between the flavour and composition of half-cooked pressed Abondance cheese (Haute-Savoie, France) were studied under natural cheese production conditions on the basis of different pastures exploited by 3 producers. Cheeses manufactured from milk pro- duced from mountain pastures (M, n = 5, 1500–1850 m) were deemed to be more “fruity”, “animal”, “boiled milk” and “hazelnut” and less pungent and “propionic acid” than cheeses made from milk produced from valley pastures (V,n = 5, 850–1100 m). It was possible to partly attribute these differ- ences in flavour to the presence of protein-based volatile compounds in the cheeses. The V cheeses had a greater variety of flavours than the M cheeses. Cheeses from gramineae-rich pastures had the most intense “cooked cabbage” odours, related to the greater amounts of sulphur compounds in these cheeses. Terpenes, which are more abundant in cheeses produced from dicotyledon-rich pastures, did not contribute directly to cheese aroma. The differences in flavour between the cheeses manufactured by the 3 producers were of the same magnitude as those observed between different pastures used by a same producer. The origin of the volatile compounds in the cheeses – whether of microbial origin or from the feed – was discussed. cheese / flavour / volatile compound / proteolysis / pasture Résumé — Relations entre la flaveur et la composition chimique de fromages d’Abondance fa- briqués à partir de laits produits sur différents types de pâturages. Les relations entre la flaveur et la composition des fromages à pâte pressée demi-cuite de type Abondance (Haute-Savoie, France), ont été étudiées dans des conditions naturelles de production du fromage à partir de pâturages diffé- rents exploités par 3 producteurs. Les fromages fabriqués à partir de laits produits sur des pâturages de montagne (M, n = 5, 1500–1850 m) ont été jugés plus « fruité », « animal », « lait cuit » et « noisette » * Correspondence and reprints Tel.: (33) 3 84 73 63 03; fax: (33) 3 84 37 37 81; e-mail: [email protected] 758 Ch. Bugaud et al. et moins piquant et « propionique » que les fromages issus de laits produits sur des pâturages de vallée (V, n = 5, 850–1100 m). Ces différences de flaveur ont pu être attribuées en partie à la présence dans les fro- mages de composés volatils issus du catabolisme des acides aminés. Les fromages V présentaient une plus grande diversité de flaveur que les fromages M. Les fromages issus de pâturages riches en graminées étaient les plus intenses en odeur « chou cuit », flaveur liée aux quantités plus importantes de composés soufrés dans ces fromages. Les terpènes, plus abondants dans les fromages issus de pâturages riches en di- cotylédones, n’ont pas contribué directement à l’arôme des fromages. Les différences de flaveur des fro- mages entre les 3 producteurs ont été du même ordre de grandeur que celles observées chez un même producteur entre différents pâturages. Les origines microbienne et alimentaire des composés volatils des fromages ont été discutées. fromage / flaveur / composé volatil / protéolyse / pâturage 1. INTRODUCTION forage, such as terpenes, may be found later in the dairy products [40] and thereby con- Although it is empirically accepted that tribute to cheese aroma [8, 9, 22, 24, 39]. the type of pasture influences the sensory Buchin et al. [13] also considered the possi- properties of cheese [27] and its flavour in bility that there could be mechanisms in- particular, few experimental studies on the volving milk proteolytic enzymes such as topic have yet been undertaken. It is never- plasmin. theless particularly important to identify These initial studies show that the type the relationship between forage type and of pasture does influence cheese flavour, cheese properties in the case of Protected but the relationships established between Designation of Origin (PDO) cheeses, the raw material (grass) and the final prod- since it constitutes one of the bases for their uct (cheese) remain incomplete. relationship with the “terroir” [28]. The aim of our study was to explore the Bosset et al. [9], Buchin et al. [13] and relationships between the composition and Verdier-Metz et al. [38], have demonstrated flavour of cheeses produced from different significant differences in cheese flavour de- types of pasture. This study is part of a pro- pending on the altitude of the pastures and ject aimed at understanding the influence of botanical composition of the forage con- pastures on the sensory properties of sumed by the animals, whether in the form cheese, of which the first results have al- of pasture or preserved forage. Neverthe- ready been presented [14–16]. The study less, many gaps remain in the existing was undertaken under real conditions of knowledge of the mechanisms involved in Abondance cheese production (Haute- the influence of forage type on cheese fla- Savoie, France), in order to benefit from a vour. The above-mentioned authors ob- wide variety of pasture types and be able to served differences in volatile compound monitor the entire production chain from composition in cheeses – whether these grass to cheese via milk. compounds were of microbial origin or originated from the feed – that may be linked to differences in flavour. On the one 2. MATERIALS AND METHODS hand, there may be a specific type of microflora in each production zone, as has 2.1. Experimental conditions been demonstrated [18, 21], which would lead to significant variations in the sensory The experiment was undertaken during quality of the cheese [7, 12, 20]. On the the spring and summer of 1998 in 3 farms other hand, certain compounds present in (X, Y, Z) producing Abondance cheese, Cheese flavour and pastures 759 producer Z producer X producer Y 38Montbeliardes 37 Abondances 28 Abondances identical Hay (H) for each herd 170 169 128 15 April HZ 16 * HX 16 HY 9 ** Valley pastures (V) and mountain pastures (M) 15 May 199 VZ1 23 160 VX1 17 30 May 161 VX2 17 20 June 174 MX1 15 15 July 214 MX2184 MY1 203 VZ2 17 12 7 1 August 194 210 MX3 13 MY2 7 5 September 177 VZ3 22 Figure 1. Experimental design. a a . –1 *HZb where was the average stage of lactation (d) and b the milk yield (L d ). ** The Y studied milk provided exclusively from the morning milking. where each producer manufactured cheese scribed by Bugaud et al. [15]. The manufac- using the milk of his own herd. Ten pas- ture and ripening of Abondance cheese tures, described by Bugaud et al. [14], be- have been described by Bugaud et al. [16]. longing to these producers, were used as the The experimental design is presented in basis of this study: 5 valley pastures (V) Figure 1. located at altitudes of between 850 and 1100 m and 5 mountain pastures (M) lo- cated at altitudes of between 1550 and 2.2. Analyses 1850 m. For each pasture, and during the last 3 d of pasture, the cheesemaking pro- All the analyses were carried out at cess was monitored and a cheese was sam- the end of the cheese-ripening period pled each day for analysis. (24 weeks). As a preliminary stage, the 3 systems of 2.2.1. Sensory analysis production (herd + cheesemaking process), were compared by producing cheeses using Two panels of trained judges assessed milk derived from hay-based feeding (H), the flavour of the ripened cheeses. Panel 1 which was identical for each of the produc- comprised 14 judges trained to assess the ers. The herds and milks have been de- intensity of 9 descriptors on a scale of 1 to 7, 760 Ch. Bugaud et al. using commercial Abondance cheese. The 2.2.2.2. Volatile compounds descriptors were the following: intensity of taste and odour, “fruity” and “hazelnut” The other volatile compounds were ex- aroma, “sweet”, “salty”, “pungent” and tracted using a dynamic head-space tech- “bitter” taste, and “fruity” odour. The nique (Purge and Trap LSC 3000; Tekmar, descriptor “fruity” designated aromatic Cincinnati, OH), separated by gas phase richness with positive connotations (a term chromatography (chromatograph 6890, used by cheese production professionals) Hewlett Packard Agilent Technologies, Les rather than fruit aroma as such. Ulis, France) and identified by mass spec- trometry (MSD 5973, Hewlett Packard Panel 2 comprised 20 judges trained to Agilent Technologies).
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