THE SALZKAMMERGUT 245 Gmunden © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Dachstein Caves 5Finger Platform Kaiservilla St Wolfgang Hallstatt

( p249 ) ( p249 ) ( p247 ), 5Fingers 5Fingers Museum fürMuseum ( p257 ) – a museum p257 ( St Wolfgang St Wolfgang Kaiservilla Hallstätter See See Hallstätter ( p252 ) ( p253 ) in the Dachstein Mountains ) in the Dachstein p253 ( from Obertraun to Hallstatt and cooling off trails between in the crystal waters able pilgrimage church in ), filled with priceless works of art p260 ( now a Franz Josef’s summer residence, handsome museum set in parkland masterfully towers of ice in the illuminated Caves Dachstein Historische Sanitärobjeckte Sanitärobjeckte Historische must be potty… to loos? They dedicated platform and the remark- Exploring the Wolfgangsee Strolling through the into the chilling depths to Plunging Hiking the around Reeling from views at the surreal the toilet in Gmunden’s Finding

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS Salt is the ‘white gold’ of the Salzkammergut, make and the mines that made it famous now Salt is the ‘white for coming to the Salzkammergutswimming, boating, hiking, – your reason Whatever Sometimes called the ‘cradle of Austrian culture’, the Salzkammergut is a spectacular region of the Salzkammergut is a spectacular region culture’, called the ‘cradle of Austrian Sometimes mountain ranges. valleys, rolling hills and rugged, steep alpine and sub-alpine lakes, picturesque Salzkammergut’s to almost 3000m. Not least because of the highest mountains climb The – startling from Salzburg those lakes – especially easily reached parts beauty, of this region wil- is remote don’t despair – much of the region But with visitors. can at times be swamped parts and Mondsee, you’ll visited in those heavily the Wolfgangsee such as derness, and even limitless opportunities provide for peaceful, glassy waters sections where always find isolated The and chucking or just sitting on the shore boating, swimming, fishing stones into the water. full in Hallstatt township are streets See is no exception. When the pretty popular Hallstätter the lakeof summer visitors, across a sleepy, swampy Obertraun a village atmosphere. retains splendour. with isolated and you will be rewarded Strike region, out deeper into the and to Hallstatt culture, journey back in time to the settlers of the Iron Age for an interesting side of Along the western and Romans – all of whom sullied their hands in the mines. the Celts oldest in the world, used to transport to be the brine. See is a pipeline reputed the Hallstätter serviceToday, the narrow swathe cut out to build and the pipeline is a lush hiking trail. the curious and adventurous. rewards – this region climbing or exploring cultures TheSalzkammergut THE SALZKAMMERGUT inces: UpperAustria,which takes thelion’s their elaborate palaces and pleasure gardens. profits from the dark,dankminestobuild of Salzburg tookover the theshafts andused theprince-archbishops ofthe demise the Celts, sloshed After downthemtorelease thesalt. tunnels were hacked intotherockandwater times,when the Salzkammergut since Celtic theprincipal activityinMining hasbeen History www.salzkammergut.at. ince. Forgeneral information,check out andSalzburg prov- Aussee; around Bad share; Styria,comprisingthesmallarea 246 The Salzkammergut fallswithin three prov- Orientation &Information Munich To (München; 130km)

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247 THE SALZKAMMERGUT SALZKAMMERGUT THE ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

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( 145 % Linz (65km) Rooms ) Umfahrungsstr takes Ost-Süd 204-0; Traun To quaint chalet withagarden nexttotheriver terrace and serves terrace andserves filling classics. place haslotsof plantsstuddingitsoutside street inacourtyard,thischeap andcheerful €9; sunny conservatory andlarge bedroomswith sunny conservatory a beautifulgarden(complete withapond), this lovely hotel hascosy,traditionaldécor, leafy gladeof mapletrees nexttothestation, 4;s€65,d€90-120; Bahnhofstrasse lonelyplanet.com mains €10.50-21.50; the emperorwas in residence. tries fortheirbreakfast morningwhen every was where mistress FranzJosef’s ordered pas- takes youbackintime:founded1832,this Pfarrgasse pastryshop(open8.30amto6pm) locationbesidetheriver.in apleasant The someusingorganicstaples, localmeats, quite decentAustrian Pfarrgasse 7,serves thefamouspastryshopat of Zauner, Café 10am-8pmWed-SunDec-mid-Apr) May-Oct, ( the front-roombartill hour.midnight and othersimplefare, at orsimplynighthawk fast here, lunch ordine onaWienerschnitzel this popularriverside bar/café.Youcanbreak- andherpicturesJosef, hangonthewallsof unhappy wifeElisabeth, of Emperor Franz midnight) Sissy Café Eating &Drinking internet for guests. a rooftop swimmingpoolandfree wireless floors, arefreshingly low-key colourscheme, business hoteland well-thought-out withpine Ischl’s hoteltion toBad landscapeisastylish gasse 9; sic Austrian cuisine. clas- andagoodrestaurantand sauna, serving There’s also awellness centre withsolarium river. Someroomscanbevery plain,though. suites) have large windowsandoverlook the have bathtubs,andthebestrooms(junior mains €10-18) 3;s€85-95,d€115-162,apt€162; Stifterkai Adalbert steam bath on site. floors. There’s anda abilliardroom,sauna interesting oldfurniture, ragrugsandwooden % h Hotel Garni Sonnhof Garni Hotel Weinhaus Attwenger ZaunerEsplanade &Restaurant Grand Café Daysha Bürgerstub’n Goldenes Schiff 237 22; Hasner Allee 2; pastries €7-14.50 237 22;HasnerAllee2;pastries lunch Thu-Tue, dinnerThu&Fri) s/d/ste €95/177/280; Sissywasthenicknameof theKaiserin (

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; the northernendof thelake, andcon- minutes) go viaSteeg/Hallstätter at See, gion. Itoffers someof thebesthiking and prettiest andmostaccessible lakes in there- the SouthernSalzkammergut, isoneof the atanaltitudeofing mountains 508min The Hallstätter See, amongsharply set ris- HALLSTÄTTER SEE than over these jagged peaks. the south.Transportroutes goroundrather stunning 3000mbackdroptothe lakes in The Dachstein range mountain provides a SALZKAMMERGUT SOUTHERN tersect justnorthof the town centre. Salzburg andthenorth–southHwy145in- Ischl; Hwy158fromgo toornearBad Puchheim. to Salzburg (€19,twohours) viaAttnang- Gmunden (€7.60,45minutes), aswell township. There are alsofrequent trainsto from Hallstatt (€2)takes youtothe station tion toObertraun(€6,30minutes). Aboat tinue ontheeastern sideviaHallstatt sta- valid). is ticket(the buswillbewaitingandthesame utes), youoften have tochange atStrobl minutes). To StWolfgang(€6.40,40min- (€8.70, 1½hours) viaStGilgen (€4.60,35 toSalzburg withhourlybuses train station, departfromoutsidethe Postbus services Getting There&Away and Eurosparon Götzstrasse. 150 cocktails in all. would doaRussian novelist proud–about regularly andthedrinkslist duringevents, from,DJsgetchoose thefloors writhing drinkingareasfood. Ithastwoseparate to adeliciousplateIschl, of but it alsodoes of theliveliest late-nightpartyinginBad 4am; food€5-20) €26/€30). courses also hasacoupleof menus(three/four set menu,withwinestomatch. Ita seasonal prime-qualityAustriancuisinefrom serves Most major roads intheSalzkammergut Hourly trainstoHallstatt (€4.40,25 Supermarkets includeBillaonPfarrgasse Hofbeisl K.u.K. This

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249 8am- THE SALZKAMMERGUT SALZKAMMERGUT THE THE SALZKAMMERGUT Obertraun andHallstatt-Markt (€4.50, 25 5.50pm is yourlast boat-train connection. Hallstatt-Markt Ischl, at6.15pm. GoingtoBad leaves yourlastboat Aussee, Obertraun orBad theirpamphlet).If you’rehere in staying (see in bothdirections onthe mainrailwayline to 12timesdaily).Thisconnectswith trains Hallstatt (€2,10minutes, five trainstation Hallstatt-Markt between and round service year- andtheall-important to September) minutes, three orfourtimesdailyfromJune depending) weather 8228; AmHof126;90minexcursions€9;Jul–mid-Sep, World Heritage site in 1997. Hallstatt-Dachstein region becameaUnesco resort totheDachstein icecaves; thewhole 5km roundthelake liesObertraun,theclosest history of theregion anytimeof year. Just intothecultural ter, andafascinating insight swimming insummer,goodskiingwin- 250 As wellasexcursions, WATER, WILDMOUNTAINS, WONDERFULVIEWS&5FINGERS

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OTEN SLKMEGT • altt SOUTHERN ••Hallstatt SALZKAMMERGUT mercy. forest, maypromptcriesforlast-minute andagruellingclimbupsteps beyondthewaterfall getsspectacular.the walking openupbetweenlushdeciduous Stunningviewsofthelake and large stretches are even possibleforcyclists. The western shore trail,though,iswhere aboveWalking thewaters floor. The viewfromtheplatformover isdazzling. thelake has adifferent character. Onehasasymbolicspringboard,andthefifthtransparent caves, andconsistsoffive steely ‘fingers’extending fromasheer400mprecipice. Eachfinger viewing platform( p253 ) offers oneofthemostinteresting. It’satKrippenstein, above theice 5Fingers forthesure-footed time. Oncetheshowerpasses,youcanmove backontothecosyterrace. (bowlingalleys)outthebackhelpkill delicious pizza;andiftherainsetsin,twoKegelbahnen at Restaurant-Pizzeria Simmer( p253 ). This friendly,familyowned andrunrespite does andoneofthemoreSalzkammergut, is enjoyableplacestoseek refuge indoorsinObertraun When thewater washesdown almost800mbelow. ripple thelake cool, mountainbreeze onyourface,sippingabeerorglassofwine,andwatchingtheboats experienceissittingoutdoorsandenjoyingthe –doesafine dish,butthekiller-bee fortress Theoutdoors intheSalzkammergut. restaurant atRudolfsturm ( opposite ) –insideaformer A cooldrink andaview FKK (naturist)beachinSteeg hasalovely, reedy swimasanalternative. andmooroffshore ofthesettlementforsomeswimmingoffrocks.Obertraun The north orboatfor the dayfromHallstatt( summer splashing. Renta kayak opposite ), paddleover to Rock swimming&kayaking does ascheduled runbetween does Hemetsberger Mercycomesintheformofonenicestplacestoeatordrink The eastern shore isabreeze: ofthelake flatinmostplaces, Withitscrystalclearwaters, theHallstätter forgood Seemakes Inaregion where panoramasare plentiful,the5Fingers Alate afternoon orearlyevening showeriscommoninthe ( %

6134- finding a hotel room difficult inmid-summer.finding a hotel room difficult can notonlyget annoying attimes,butmake mines here. volumeof Todaythesheer visitors Age whoworked thesalt andCelts settlers Europe, namedafter thevillage andtheIron refers(800 to400BC) totheearlyIronAge in centre of mining.TheHallstatt salt Period largely insmallboatson the lake. annual CorpusChristiprocessiontakes place patch of landoccupiedbythevillage thatits andshore. mountain between Sosmallisthe situated precariously onanarrowslate of land the lake to thevillage, fromthetrainstation guarantee itfame. Boatschug tranquillyacross Hallstatt’s to beautyalonewould beenough the lake onallsides, andtoweringmountains mering reflections ontotheglassywaters of With pastel-coloured castingshim- houses % HALLSTATT Salt inthehillsabove thetownmadeita 06134 /pop950 lonelyplanet.com % museum; Hallstatt –toget intotownyouhave to isacrossthelakeThe trainstation from Orientation &Information its village feel. inObertraun,whichConsider staying retains Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Seestrasse 50;admission free; Seestrasse downstairs in have ledtothe area being abandoned. room re-enacting rockslidesthatmay thefatal isthe plains theexhibits.Nottobemissed Hallstatt are butpickupthe inGerman, mining. Allexplanations occupation andsalt covers theregion’s historyof IronAge/Celtic Nov&Dec,10am-4pmAprOct) 11am-3pm Wed-SunJan-Mar, 56; adult/child/family€7.50/4/19; The revamped, high- tech STADTMUSEUM middle. the andKatharina, Barbara withMarysaints in dates from1510andshows one, ontheright, and three winged altars; arguably thebest 15th-century Catholic inthegroundsof stands the The Beinhaus last skullinthecollectionwasadded1995. overcrowded graveyard since1600andthe owners. Boneshave exhumedfromthe been flowery designsandthenamesof theirformer rows of neatlystacked skulls,painted with the church. Thissmallcharnel contains house 40; admission€1; beautiful Make sure youdon’tmissthemacabre yet BEINHAUS Sights &Activities office Tourist 2-5pm Mon,Tue, 8am-noonWed)Bank Thu&Fri, with ATM. BadIschl Sparkasse tourist office. Post office 15 min€1; access Internet paths. pedestrian in Hallstatt; someotherstreets are mere isthemainstreet take theferry. Seestrasse with walksin the region. to reach theoffice. Ithasafree 10am-2pmSatJul&Aug) TurnMon-Fri, fromtheferry left 169; 8279; Kirchenweg 40) 8279; Kirchenweg Celtic and Roman excavations can be seen andRomanexcavations canbe seen Celtic h 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun,9am-noon &2-5pmMon-Fri 9am-5pm % h booklet(€2;inEnglish) which ex- ( Beinhaus h 8206; www.museum-hallstatt.at; Seestrasse 8206; www.museum-hallstatt.at;Seestrasse May–mid-Oct) Asmall‘umbrella May–mid-Oct) bar’. ( % (Seestrasse 145; (Seestrasse 8am-noon &2.30-5.30pm)Nearthe h 8208; www.hallstatt.at; Seestrasse 8208; www.hallstatt.at;Seestrasse Dachsteinsport Janu Dachsteinsport 10am-6pm 1 May-27 Oct) 10am-6pm 1May-27 (Marktplatz 58; (Marktplatz

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simn spots. swimming Dachstein TauchclubDachstein campsite isconveniently located southof te centre. the car €6.50/3.50/3.70/2.90; 7;campsiteperadult/child/tent/ .hallstatt.net; Lahnstrasse for guestswithinthe town limits. of thefollowingplacesprovide free parking (thesouthernpart of thevillage). All or Lahn help youfindsomething,eitherin Hallstatt forthetourist officeandthey’ll go straight or arrive early.Ifyouhaven’t already booked, Rooms fillquicklyinsummer,sobook ahead Sleeping €9) end intimeforthe last tour. p99 ). Leave very earlysoyoureach yoursticky aroundthelakewalk 18kmanticlockwise (see notleast,masochists can butcertainly Last climb,andnotreallyIt’s atough forchildren. very trailpastthe steep turesque take the trailuntilitjoinsthepic- Beinhaus: climbthestairs behind the is dry),youmight nicular. Ifyouare feeling fit(andtheweather fromthefootofminutes up) starts thefu- Alternatively, aswitchback trail(about 40 Tower; p102 ), andanarchaeological dig. lookout restaurant, mine is15minutes’ walkpastHallstatt’s best fromwhere station, to themountain the lar railway of themenjoyable. Theeasiestiswitha given are admissionforthe last tour. minated subterranean lake. salt Closingtimes photo istaken of youwhilesliding)toanillu- an underground railwayandminer’sslides(a around hisfate, withvisitors travelling down as the‘Man tourrevolves inSalt’.Thestandard toric minerwasfoundandtodayheisknown In 1734thefullypreserved body of aprehis- closedmid–Oct-Apr) to3pm1Oct-mid-Oct, Sep, mid-Sep-30 €21/12.60/44.10; Mine; attraction, thefascinating isanothermajor(Salt Mountain) cultural Situated above high Hallstatt onSalzberg SALZBERGWERK continues. excavation where ( below), site theSalzbergwerk thetouristoffice, ornear onthelake, orscubadive initwiththe Campingplatz Klausner-Höll Campingplatz You can hire There are waysof several getting there –all % 06132-200 2400;adult/child&concession/family Soleleitungsweg

(one-way adult/child/family€5.10/3.10/10.80) (one-way h 9.30am-4.30pm May-mid-Sep, to3.30pm 9.30am-4.30pm May-mid-Sep, boats and kayaks kayaks and boats

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Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 351; www.inneres-salzkammergut (Kernmagazinplatz 23) (Kernmagazinplatz

( % 8221; Seestrasse 120; 8221; Seestrasse Beef filletin Beef between free) to the highest point(2109m)ofto thehighest and iswithouticeformations.Tours give in- andlongestor sodeepest caves intheworld children’s playarea and boat rental. cable carreturn plusonecaveadult/child€23.70/13.80, were first explored in 1910. nowasitwaswhenthecavestwice ashigh – years 8mhigh old,formingan‘icemountain’ ice intheGiantIceCave isnomore than500 Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels €8.40/4.80/5.20/2.80; chello.at; Winkl77;campsite peradult/child/tent/car and holidayapartments, plus hotels. several Obertraun hasmanyprivate rooms (from€19) Sleeping &Eating riding area (€29.20fora day pass). Krippenstein isalsoaskiandsnowboardfree- beyond thattotheGjaidalm Inwinter station. gling over theprecipice andwalkingtrails, with aneerie (return adult/child€20.60/12.80; adult/child €14.40/8.30; After themiddlestation They’re down thevalleytowards Aussee. Bad and partof Dachstein thesame cave system. €7.70/4.50; heighten the experience. andshadowto works of onlight artbased and like hasinstallations theRieseneishöhle, intotheformationofsight thecave, which 10.15am-2.30pm mid-May–mid-Sep) English aswell commentaries. German the tourguideknow,theywilldowith onaguidedtour,andifyoulet only beseen they take are andsurreal. eerie Thecave can minated withcoloured andtheshapes light The enormousiceformationshere are illu- (Giant IceCave; Cave. Mammoth utes toreach theGiantIceCave fromthe Mammoth Cave first, allowing30to45min- take thecablecarupby1pm anddothe an hour. Tomake sure bothcaves, yousee cable carat1350m,andeach cave tourlasts walking fromthefirst stage of theDachstein only adult/child€9.30/5.50) cable carplusbothcavesadult/child€28.60/16.30; Both Campingplatz Hinterer Campingplatz The The The Obertraun hasagrassy The bestof thecaves isthe withchanging huts,asmallwaterslide, a Koppenbrüllerhöhlen Koppenbrüllerhöhlen cable car Mammuthöhle caves h h May-Oct)

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( 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, % tours hourly 10am-4pm) 8am-noon &2- Gosaukamm range Gosaukamm h 8295; www.oberoester 6132 2002490;tours 4-11pm Mon-Sat) Gosau , withan (

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school). Extending fromtheeastern tipof trails andwater sports(includingasailing viewpoint atitswestern endaswellwalking Grundlsee in thepleasant gingerbread totake home,oreatitonthespot gingerbread bakery thatoffers tours. Buysome h Pötschenstrasse146;admissionfree; inGerman; kuchen.at, Lebkuchen beyonditfrom and themountains available. sheet tions are butthere’s inGerman anEnglish married aHabsburg prince. Allexplana- postmaster’s daughter whoscandalously some portraitsof AnnaPlöchl, thelocal production.Therehistory andsalt are also beautiful 17th-centurybuilding,covers local 10am-noon&3-6pmmid-Jun–Sep) Oct, h Chlumeckyplatz1;adult/child€3/1.50; .at/kammerhofmuseum; tours inEnglish are available. of thepatronsaint miners.St Barbara, Guided chapel madeof blocksof anddedicated salt to treasure chambers, anunderground lake anda the NazisduringWWII.Tours includethe cret hidingplaceof arttreasures stolenby mineandwasthese- is stillaworkingsalt fr listings. for brochure available fromthe touristoffice Aussee outside theoffice. Pickupthe Bad mation touch screen and free phonetohotels and knowledgeable; there’s a24-hourinfor- isvery atthetouristoffice helpful The staff trail beginsatthe train station. ning alongtheHallstätter (see See p99 ). The connecting withtheOstuferwanderweg run- thelush runs westthrough Traun River valley, chains in winter. many passengers there are. snow You’llneed for thereturn tripis€15,regardless of how Thetoll peak overlooking See. theAltausser most of thewayup available. are www.3-seen-tour.at, fulltouradult/child€15/7.50) inGerman; May andOctober, boxed text, p256 ) and the lake are twosmallerlakes, Sleeping Five kilometres northeastof Aussee, Bad A new10-kmhikingtrail,the There are great viewsacrossthe town Museum Kammerhof A scenicroad,the 8am-noon &1-6pmTue-Sat, 1-6pmSun) 4-6pm Tue &SunApr–mid-Jun &Sat,10am-noonFri & is a longer , thinnerlake, withagood (Gingerbread Bakery; (Gingerbread Bakery; café Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

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255 THE SALZKAMMERGUT SALZKAMMERGUT THE THE SALZKAMMERGUT Always worth a shot on a good night – Always worthashotongood night Kirchengasse 28;mains€5.50-12; Kirchengasse reithstrasse 165;disco€2; Billa on Hauptstrasse. Bahnhof anda by thetouristoffice, strasse, station. astone’s throw fromthetrain its discoevents, there’s apizzeriaandlounge tocomplement centre. late) This cosyandappealing 256 on the ceiling specialises in on theceilingspecialises smoked trout. ern) withared-brick floorandcalicodraped There’s aUnimarktsupermarket on Salzhaus Bar Heike’s Paradeiser Zum Weinschenke mapped andresearched soitcanbeleftinpeace atlastandthere are nosecrets anymore. care aboutthefishandtheyleave tobemeasured, atrailofpollution.Wewantthe wholelake illegal divers trytheirluckatfindingtreasure. This threatens ecologybecausetheydon’t thelake’s end toallthistalkaboutsecrets, andanendtothedisturbancethisiscausinglake. Alotof What doesAustrian NationalForests hopetogetoutofanyagreement? measurements andmapsavailabletothepublic. ismeasuredcomponent ofthiswillagainbethatthewholelake these andmapped.We’llmake ofMrScottnodivingwasconducted.reasons Ifwedosignanewagreement, onthepart afixed Scott andhiscompanyGlobalExplorations. Bundesforste signedanagreement, butforpersonal gold andSwissbankaccounts. These are withoutanybasiswhatsoever. Are there anysignsoftreasure downthere? Austria holdsontotheotherhalf. the owner. The halfandtheRepublicof findergets10%.Ifownershipisopen,thekeeps Who ownswhatever isfoundinthelake? but onlyprinted ononeside. The notes were printed andcirculated todestabilize thecurrency. Counterfeits were alsofound, Have theyfoundanything? a lotoftreasure hunters have dived downthere. When didtheserumoursfirstsurface? Nazis attheendofWWII. the variousstoriesandrumours–above all,abouttreasure supposedlydumpedinitbyfleeing Herr Schragl,whyiseveryone sointerested intheToplitzsee? Forests), explains. roguedivers?still attract BernhardSchraglfromÖsterreichische Bundesforste (Austrian National ecosystem wasallbutdestroyedduringWWIIwhenitusedinexperimentswithexplosives, dying intheattempt –toexplore itsoxygen-free depths. whosefragile Whydoesthislake, The picturesque Toplitzsee is off-limitstodivers. Butthathasn’tstoppedthemtrying–and DIVING FORTREASURE –ANDDEAR LIFE Themostpopularwatering holein the OTEN AZAMRU SALZKAMMERGUT NORTHERN A few yearsagoAustrian NationalForests beganacooperationwithtreasure hunter Norman

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( % 540 08,52175) It’sbecauseofhistoryand canbe here.useful We wanttobringan lonelyplanet.com schiffahrt.at; Rathausplatz, Gmunden) Rathausplatz, schiffahrt.at; TRAUNSEE 1783m). mountain; (the latter provides accesstoSchafberg the villages of StWolfgangandGilgen hometo on itsshores –andWolfgangsee, Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Tourist office Tourist Upthe 8am-5.30 Fri) hill 200m. 1; Habert-Strasse Post office with accommodation service. booking officeforthelake, tourist 9am-1pm SatNov-Apr)Regional 10am-7pmSat&SunJulAug, 9am-5pmMon-Fri, Fri, 8am-8pmMon- 10am-4pm Sat&SunMay-Jun &Sep-Oct, www.traunsee.at; Toscanapark1; Traunsee Ferienregion Gästezentrum +Internetcafe Bürgerespresso at Traun River, withRathausplatz its heart. Orientation &Information attractive stopover inthe lakes region. trade. Todayitmakesand thesalt for an administration centre forboththeHabsburgs castles andceramics,italsodoubledasan Riviera feel. Itwasformerlyknownforits promenades, Gmunden exudesabreezy, With itsyacht marina,lakeside square and % GMUNDEN applies). days inJulyandAugust(a€2.50surcharge takes tothewaves onweekends andholi- per adult/child. Thepaddlesteamer costs€7.50/6 GmundenandEbensee between April andmid-October. Theone-waytrip late between line fromGmundentoEbensee Traunsee Schiffahrt Ischl (€7.60,40minutes). Boatsoperated by (€4.40,20minutes), continuingtoBad see Traunkirchen (€2.90,10minutes) andEben- connected by rail. are strungalongthewestern shore andare the imposing ofnated byrockycrags,thetallest which is down acool192m.Theeastern flankisdomi- Traunsee isthedeepest lake inAustria,going service service internet café. Graben 2a;perhr€3.60; 3pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) The city tourist officefor Gmunden, Nov-Apr) The citytourist 3pm Mon-Fri 10am-4pmSatJul&Aug,9am- 9am-6pmMon-Fri, Oct, 1; Rathausplatz The towncentre isonthewestern bankof the Hourly trains run between Gmunden,Hourly trainsrunbetween 07612 /pop15,075 ( % ( h % h 0577 677-4810;Johann-Evangelist- Traunstein 9am-3pm Mon-Fri May, Jun, Sep & Jun,Sep May, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri 657 520;[email protected]; 8am-noon &2-5.30pmMon-Thu,

( h % 9am-8pm Mon-Sat)Self- 07612-667 00;www.traunsee (1691m).Theresorts h ( tourtheshore- NORTHERN NORTHERN ••Traunsee SALZKAMMERGUT % 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 777 44;Am ( % 643 05; Gisela also easy to walk. serve knownas serve fn one. find travellers tohelpyou – askthetouristoffice Private roomsare thebestdealfor budget Sleeping &Eating andsgraffito staircase from 1578. a picturesque courtyard,alate-Gothic external (rebuilt inthe17thcenturyafter afire) andhas a Romanfortress. Itdates from909orearlier tohaveis believed builtonthe ruinsof been drop to (adult/child return €11.50/6.80) here isthe tion of porcelain,silver andjewellery.Alsoout 10am-1pmSatMay-Sep) Tue-Fri, Freygasse 27;admission€7.50; castle Renaissance (1634–1707). Schwanthaler from 1678)bythebaroquesculptorThomas (dating elled asbaroqueandsportinganaltar 17; Kirchplatz) the 12th-century is well asagallery.Northof theRathausplatz history of trade,as Gmundenandthesalt Once itopensyoucanexpectdisplaysonthe forrenovation isclosed museum untilthen. 8) 420; www.museen.gmunden.at;Kammerhofgasse building asthe inthesame Objectswillbehoused Sanitary in hishuntinglodge near Ebensee. by theroyal 80 toiletsare ondisplay,includingoneused inthe19thcentury.Aboutperching on these vividly explodesthemyth.TheBritishwere Europeanquirk,thismuseum sessive Central splashisjustananallyob- deck andhorizontal thelatterand ifyouthought withitsflatpoop ‘wash-down’and‘wash-out’models, between of toilets.Here youcandiscover thedifference May-Oct) €4.20/1 Sanitary Objects; Sanitärobjeckte The unusual museums. withoneofis nowblessed Austria’smost Once afamouscentre forceramics,Gmunden Sights &Activities with accommodation bookings. Helps with informationandmapsoftownthelake. On thewestern shore, apretty nature re- Flanking thelake ontheeastern side,the By May forHistorical 2008theMuseum h is basically a monumental collection isbasicallyamonumental Seeschloss Ort Seeschloss 10am-noon &2-5pmTue-Sat, 10am-noonSun Grünberg , aGothicbuildinglater remod- Po %

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( h % 8am-5pm or6pm) 2234; www.traunsee ontheSalz- (Fisherman’s

in vr knowledgeable. very dm/d/tr €19/24/69) the usual water-leisure activities. Themain few resorts clingtotheshoreline, offering visited of theSalzkammergut’s lakes, buta the south.It’sone of theless scenicand less flanked in mostlybyhills, withmountains The largest lake intheSalzkammergut is % ATTERSEE pick you up. they’ll you callaheadfromGrünaustation available, there are bars forpartying,andif ing, amongmanyotheractivities.Meals are canyoning, rafting,skiingandsnowboard- Hotel hour). one and frequent runfromGmunden(€4, buses trains runthere fromWels(€9.30,onehour) going to Grünau, eastof Frequent Traunsee. If youwanttoget off thebeaten track,consider % GRÜNAU rather thanthelarger Ebensee station. boat landingstage isEbensee-Landungsplatz, Nov-Apr) &May-Jun, 8am-noon&1-4pmMon-Fri Sep-Oct 5pm Mon-Fri 9am-noon&2-6pmSatJulAug,8am-noon1- Mon-Fri, ( tain-bike hire andtrails,thelocal cially foractivitieslike hikingandmoun- as the Glöcklerlauf. made of tissuepaperinabizarre ritualknown dongiantilluminated head-dresses Ebensee with easyto medium slopes. also provides accesstowinter view over lakes. Feuerkogel thetwoLangbath is across aflattishplateau. Withinanhour’swalk where you canfindwalkingtrailsleading €16/€9.30 hourly)up to time here istotake thecablecar(adult/child shore andafavoured of theTraunsee pas- Days You’re Dead).Itliesonthesouthern splatter film, ting fortheSalzkammergut’s unusualteenage In 2006 achieved renownEbensee astheset- % EBENSEE % Alberfeldkogel The small,friendly forthecentreThe trainstation andthe In earlyJanuary year,themenof every For details onaccommodationandespe- For details 07666 /pop1500 07616 /pop2100 06133 /pop8700 8016; www.ebensee.com; Hauptstrasse34;

( % by the Landungsplatz train station is trainstation bytheLandungsplatz 8499; www.treehousehotel.net; Schindlbach16; In 3Tagen bist duTod offers bike hire, riding, horse (1708m),withanexcellent Tree House Backpacker HouseBackpacker Tree Feuerkogel skiing tourist office tourist (day pass€30) (1592m),

(InThree h 8am-6pm 259

THE SALZKAMMERGUT SALZKAMMERGUT THE THE SALZKAMMERGUT Strobl toStGilgen (€6.40,75minutes), stop- to October. Departures are approximately €14/24; 40min) one-way/return the tourists were chairs), carriedupin sedan ride to four-hour walkfromStWolfgang (early Ifyoudon’t fancythethree- Wolfgangsee). and,of Attersee course, (especially Mondsee, phenomenal viewsover andlakes mountains the summityou’llfindahotel, arestaurant and Schafberg isdominated bythe1783m The Wolfgangsee Schafberg or with buses the Schafbergbahn. help withplanningdaytripsandconnecting giveslocal touristoffices exacttimesthatwill free hourly duringtheday(€5.40,35minutes); the run fromStWolfgangtoGilgen almost frequent fromJunetoearlySeptember. Boats are most ping atpointsenroute. Services seeschifffahrt.at) per person) to (1400m). Postalm ofat thestart ascenictollroad(€3percarand 2750), isalessremarkable place butpleasant The thirdtownonthelake, of which StWolfgangisthemostappealing. popular resorts, StWolfgangandGilgen, Named after a thislake localsaint, hastwovery WOLFGANGSEE Vöcklamarkt. at townchangeVöcklabruck, andforAttersee stop): forKammer-Schörfling change at Salzburg route onlyregional (though trains a linebranching fromthemainLinz– are connected totherailnetwork,each by Two lakeside towns,Attersee andSchörfling, Getting There&Away August. and and adailyfullcircuit(€16,3¾hours) inJuly most daysfromearlyMay tolate September, 2¼ hours) regions of thelake times several the north(€7.50,1¼hours) andsouth(€13, ahrt.at) Oct-Apr) 9am-noon&2-5pmMon-Fri Jun&Sep, 9am-noonSatMay, Fri, 9am-noon Sat,9-11amSunJul&Aug, 9am-noon&2-5pmMon- 15; www.attersee.at; Nussdorferstrasse a coupleof churches. Its resort is 260 Attersee-Schifffahrt A Schafbergbahn Schafbergbahn Eintauchen &Aufsteigen OTEN SLKMEGT • ofage NORTHERN ••Wolfgangsee SALZKAMMERGUT ferry service ferry service does mostlyalternating boatcircuits of does canhelp with accommodation. on itsnorthernshore.mountain At Attersee operates May toOctober from

, which has a museum and , which hasamuseum (cogwheel railway; (

06138 2232-0;www.wolfgang ( % , which runsfromMay 7806; www.atterseeschifff tourist office tourist Strobl h timetable from timetable % 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, (population 06138 2232-0; (

% 7719; the 14thand15thcenturiesisvirtually the otherendoftown,near road tunnel. Pilgerstrasse; entrance. tunnel Attheeastern 9am-noonSatOct-Apr) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon&2-6pmSat,SunJulAug, Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm 9am-noon&2-6pmSatJunSep, Mon-Fri, h Tourist office Tourist there are carparks ateitherend of it. thetowncentre,A roadtunnelbypasses and Pacher joinatthepilgrimage Strasse church. The mainstreets of Pilgerstrasse andMichael Orientation &Information treasures. art century pilgrimage church, packed with the14th- today’s visitors stillcometosee of theboxed pilgrimage (see text, p101 ) and gently creaking wooden boathouses. stroll alongtheforested lakeshore pastthe whichevening, isthebest timeforatranquil downearly ing theday,thingsusuallysettle its streets canget clogged withvisitors dur- the steepbanksof Although theWolfgangsee. St Wolfgangisacharming townsituated on % ST WOLFGANG until yourtimecomes to depart. wander alongthelake oraroundStWolfgang a ticket foraspecifictrainandthengo for a to get onthenexttrain.Queueearly,purchase is sopopularthatyouprobablywon’tbeable 8.25amand6pm,butthetrip hourly between the hovering angels. wasthe Soimportant down tothenotes ofright musicplayedby figures inthecentre, isstartling, andthedetail on thewingsare asfascinating asthegilded Theluminous coloursItaly. of thepaintings the technical achievements of Renaissance ple of Gothicstyle,enhancedwith theGerman 1471and1481– it’saperfectbetween exam- by celebrated religious artistMichael Pacher sive created pieceisthewinged altar, high andpaintings.Themostimpres-less statues extravagant pulpit,afineorgan andcount- altars (fromGothictobaroque),an several galleryofa spectacular religious art,with ( St Wolfgang’simpressive Sights &Activities Pilgerstrasse branch % The village’s mainfamecameasaplace 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat May, 9am-7pm 9am-noonSatMay, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 06138 /pop3000 2321; donation€0.80; h ( % 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri Jun-Sep) At Jun-Sep) 9am-noon &2-5pmMon-Fri 8003; www.wolfgangsee.at; Au 140; (Michael-Pacher-Haus, h 9am-6pm) Wallfahrtskirche Wallfahrtskirche lonelyplanet.com wasbuiltin

looking ontothelake, large bathroomsand rooms atthisfour-star hotel have balconies pension withfeatures ripeforaWolfgangsee without bathroom€20/50; Rooms are individuallystyled andsomewhat today takes pride ofetta placeononefloor. The White Horse, operetta Benatzky’s forRalph was thesetting stands overstands thespotwhere StWolfgang’saxe weeks before Easter. they are alwaysopen,exceptfortheeight festivals. exceptforimportant Nowclosed thatthewingswerealtar traditionallykept Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels idiosyncratic, butthemore expensive ones pis Im Stöckl74;s€124-140,d€170-248,steper person €170; and baked local fish. good fishplatter filledwithpoached, fried race overlooking thelake, anda withpasta to €31.90,mostunder€15)alsohas ater- tasteful décor. Therestaurant (mains€8.80 s €56-58,d€112-116; from thetouristexcesses in town. homely feel andtheadvantage of beingaway pension runbyalovely oldcouplehasavery with fineviewsover therooftops toit,this .at; Au 41;s/d€23/46) It’s conveniently opposite theAu bus stop. price). Guestsget of free use aboatand bike. in theirboatsheddownonthewater (same the owner-couple alsorent outfourrooms sor andhiswife, evokes earlierdecades,and mystery novel: it’srunbyaretired profes- in thedirection of Strobl. site isonthe lakeside 1kmfromStWolfgang adult/child/tent €6.10/3.55/9; behalf. your tourist office, which willphoneplaceson rounding hills.Listsare available fromthe inthesur-in village homesorinfarmhouses St Wolfganghassomegoodprivate rooms Sleeping railway. Schafberg roundthelake ofclockwise isthestart the sports water p101). text, tohave theboxedis supposed landed(see Another altar, made200yearsAnother altar, later, Hotel Peter Peter Hotel Raudaschl Gästehaus Appesbach Camping themany A tourist-office bookletdetails Im WeissenRössl Haus amSee ) StWolfgang’smostfamoushotel onoffer. Afew minutes’ walkanti- (

( % % Set backfrom thelake but Set pi 2304; www.tiscover.at/hotel-peter;

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% % 2306-0; www.weissesroessl.at; h ) Thisisaremarkable ) Thegenerous-sized 2206; Au99;campsiteper 2561; www.haus-raudaschl Easter-Sep) NORTHERN NORTHERN ••StGilgen SALZKAMMERGUT Thiscamp- rants andalovely winecellarinthishighly Rathaus. h Tourist office Tourist Dallman Café Information not quite ascrowded St Wolfgang. forlakea goodbase water sports,anditis ting. This,alongwithquieter Strobl, isquite ofso, notleastbecause itsvery scenicset- popular. Ithasboomed inthelastdecadeor Salzburg, isonereason whythistownisso ofThe ease accessto St Gilgen, 29km from % ST GILGEN (Markt stop)andattheSchafberg railway. ferries stopatthevillageWolfgangsee centre nect inStGilgen orStrobl (€1.90,11minutes). Salzburg (€7.90,1¾hours) tocon- youneed somewhat insummerwhentheshipsrun.For utes) isfrequent off buttails outof season, via StrobltoStGilgen (€5.20,35to50min- posite fromStWolfgang . APostbusservice from Strobl inthe east.Forferries, see op- The onlyroadtoStWolfgangapproaches Getting There&Away the Schafbergbahn. with liquorish-root sauce sage polenta. national dishes like organic locallambina open allday)tempts withregional andinter- respected (kitchen hotel. TheSeerestaurant €12.50-32; balcony. charming orgrills;checkwedges, salads outthe pasta, a drink,accompaniedbywingsandpotato an unusualplacetocurlyourfingers around tion, thischilled-out barandrestaurant is h around andmake your choice. Wolfgang’s compacttowncentre; stroll There are dozensof hotels andcafésinSt Eating &Drinking good junior suites. and anotherisindoors. Italsohasseveral literally floatsonthelake (heated to30°C), a large wellnessarea, andtwopools–onepool have abalconyandviewover thelake. There’s Bundesstrasse 1a; There’s aKonsum supermarket 200mfrom Im WeissenRössl Kraftstoff-Bar lunch &dinner) 11am-7pm Jun-Sep) Slowinternetaccess,near 11am-7pm Jun-Sep) the 06227 /pop3700 h lunch &dinner) ( ( % % h Decked outlike apetrolsta-

2348; www.wolfgangsee.at; Mondsee 2208; Mozartplatz 2a;permin €0.20; 2208; Mozartplatz ( % 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 2-6pmMon-Fri,

( % 2491; Markt 128;mains€8-19; 2491; Markt There are tworestau- 2306-0; ImStöckl74;mains

261 THE SALZKAMMERGUT SALZKAMMERGUT THE THE SALZKAMMERGUT Some of therooms have balconiesandallare run pensioniswellmanaged andrefreshing, Frontfestgasse 2-4;s€34,d€50-70; hlfl management. helpful large in thisno-frills butspotless pensionwith -falkensteiner.at; Salzburgerstrasse13;s/d€40/56; location. the with cleanroomsthatare very goodvaluefor p beach. keys Night are available. hostel hasagoodlocationnearthetown 5-7pmSat&Sun; Mon-Fri, s €19.50-29.50,d€35-44; [email protected]; MondseerStrasse7;dm€17.50-19.50, Schafbergblick Jugendgästehaus Sleeping &Eating back toStGilgen. Skiers ascend in winter. views andtwotrails(2to2½hours) leading will whiskyoutothetopwhere there are good Zwölferhorn with agrassyarea beyondthe yacht marina. town swimmingpoolandasmall,free beach ing and aresailing popularhere. There’s a to 4700animalsand religious objects. dery (originallymanufactured inthebuilding) for itseclecticcollectionrangingfromembroi- Tue-Sun Jun-Sep) Pichlerplatz 6;adult/child€3.50/2; is infectious. ful objects here andthefamily’s enthusiasm to anIndiansitar. There are sometrulybeauti- to have agoatanythingfromanAfricandrum demonstrate forhours. Visitors are welcome zum Eck,canplaythemallandwillhappily music teachers. Thesonof thefamily,Askold world, allof themcollected byonefamilyof to 1500musicalinstrumentsfromallover the & 2-5pmMon-Thu, 3-6pmSunJan-May) 9-11amFri, 9-11am mid-Oct–Jan, 9-11am&2-5pmMon-Fri Jun-mid-Oct, seestrasse 11;admission€4; Völker The cosylittle Sights &Activities Rathaus on Mozartplatz. Nov-Apr) Helpsfindrooms. Brochures are alsoinsidethe 9am-noon&2-5pmMon-Fri 9am-noonSatOct, Mon-Fri, 6pm Sat,10am-5pmSunJul&Aug, 9am-noon&2-5pm 9am- 9am-8pmMon-Fri, Jun&Sep, 9am-noon SatMay, 262 The Pension Falkensteiner Rosam Gasthof risingoverThe mountain theresort is Water ) Situated downnearthelake, thisfamily- OTEN SLKMEGT • ode NORTHERN ••Mondsee SALZKAMMERGUT

(Folk Music Instrument Museum; InstrumentMuseum; (Folk Music

Heimatkundliches Museum Heimatkundliches sports (1520m); acable car(€18return) wonanawardafew years back such as windsurfing, waterski- Muzikinstumente-Museum der Muzikinstumente-Museum

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( 9-11am &3-7pmTue-Sun % h 2395; www.pension h 10am-noon &3-6pm

Easter–mid-Oct; Easter–mid-Oct; % ( %

8235; Aber- ( ishome 2365; jgh % pi 2642;

) Mar, closedearlyJan&Feb)Mar, Jan&Apr-Jun, lunch&dinnerThu-Sun ner Tue-Sun Sep-early mains €7-17.50; edge, this popular seafood restaurant does a restaurantedge, does thispopularseafood finest restaurants on the Wolfgangsee. The finest restaurants ontheWolfgangsee. inwhatisconsidereda table tobeoneof the Sep-Jul,dinner Fri lunch&dinnerAug) mains €20-24,6-coursemenu€62; dishes alsofeature on the menu. fish platter fortwopeople€35;somemeat club inAustria(itwasfounded in 1930). from 9pm),claimingtobetheoldestnight- disco downstairs, theZwolfer (open AlmBar the garden)andtake-away food.There’s abar/ restaurant bythelake haseat-in(insideorin closedmostofJan) dinner Wed-MonMay-Oct, h elegant terrace. Trythe game ragout. whitewashed diningroomoroutsideonthe and regional specialitiesinalow-ceilinged, national €19, openlunch anddinner)serves wooden floors. Therestaurant (mains€8to wooden beds,interesting colourschemes and with shadesof minimalism.There are heavy beautifully designedinacosilyrusticstyle Geschichten’ roomsatthisoldinnare 8;s€82,d€116-148; Mozartplatz 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat Jun & Sep, 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm SatJun&Sep, 6pm Mon-Fri, Franz MüllerStrasse3; Salzburgers. weekending makes popularlake developed, itahighly for toSalzburgcloseness (30km away),this noted foritswarmwater; coupledwithits northern tipof thiscrescent-shaped lake The townof extends alongtheMondsee % MONDSEE to/fromStWolfgang, service see p260 . ontheferry Fordetails north toMondsee. cable car. 154provides Highway ascenicroute of station the isnearthebase The busstation Ischl (€4.40,34minutes).to StoblandBad continueon somebuses until earlyevening; Postbus (€5.40),withhourlydepartures St Gilgen is50minutes fromSalzburg by Getting There&Away seasonal regional dishes. atmosphere in isinformalanditspecialises The Timbale Restaurant San Giorgio Post Zur Gasthof Fischer-Wirt Restaurant Restaurant Fischer-Wirt 06232 /pop3200 lunch &dinnerWed-SunFeb-Apr, Nov&Dec,lunch tourist office tourist h

( % lunch &dinnerJulAug,din- Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels h

2605; IschlerStrasse18;pizza€6-9; ( %

8am-6pm Mon-Fri Apr & May, 8am- Apr& May, 8am-6pm Mon-Fri ( Situated onthewater’s % ( % 2157; www.gasthofzurpost.at; 2270; www.mondsee.at; Dr ( 7587; SalzburgerStrasse2; % h pi Reserve aheadfor Reserve 2304; Ischlerstrasse21; lunch &dinnerSat-Wed, This Italian ThisItalian ) The‘Post- Music, If you’re allergic tothefilm Sights &Activities thechurchis between and the lake. Oct-Mar) 7pm Sat&SunJulAug,8am-noon1-5pmMon-Fri Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake €47/76) OdiloStrasse39;s/dwithbreakfast.mondsee.at; Herzog centre of town. HI hostel is afew minutes’ walkfromthe 9;dm/s/d€19.50/29.50/44; Krankenhausstrasse tourist office. For listsof hotels andrestaurants, askatthe Sleeping days €99) courses. (fivesailing days€214)andwindsurfing(two the largest school sailing inAustriaandoffers BaumPromenade 3) Robert inGerman; schule-mondsee.at, ( Mondsee isavery old monastery site). finds andthemonasticculture of theregion Sep) adult/child &student€3/1.50; Mondseeland undPfahlbaumuseum Von Trappweddingscenesin the film. emotional highly toriety byfeaturing inthose century of(added in1740,incidentally) the15th- town. Even thelemon-yellowbaroquefaçade Jugendgästehaus The Gasthof GrünerBaum Gasthof After that, make forthe abeeline nextdoor,withdisplaysonStoneAge Roomsinthissmallandno-frills pen- there’s justonepieceof advice:blow Segelschule Mondsee Segelschule parish church parish (

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take away;check outits ice cream. as and otherclassicsforeatinginorusefully agoodschnitzel opposite the church, serves Gilgen by topay€24forarideSt 20 minutes). Expect three direct adaygotoStGilgen buses (€3.70, with Salzburg (€5.40,50minutes), butonly connectMondsee Hourly Postbusservices Getting There&Away ket atRainerstrasse 5. restaurantItalian inthecentre of town. and bread isespeciallypopularatthisdelightful h haveopen longafter thetourbuses left town. done well.Thisrestaurant andbaralsostays withprawns,Mayrhofer’ssalad iswhere it’s h €8-15; BlaueTraube Gasthof Eating steam bath andsmallgym on site. the church –askwhenbooking.There’s asauna, and airyroomshave aviewof thesquare and hotelstar facestheMarktplatz. Someof thelight bachstrasse 6;s€76-115,d€126-159; one awayfromthe busy street. sion have renovated been recently, butaskfor Restorante daMichele Restorante Mayrhofer’s Leitnerbräu For self-caterers, there’sFor self-caterers, aSparsupermar- lunch &dinnerTue-Sun 9am-midnight Wed-Mon) h lunch &dinnerThu-Tue) taxi

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263 THE SALZKAMMERGUT SALZKAMMERGUT THE