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THE SALZKAMMERGUT 245 Gmunden © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Dachstein Caves 5Finger Platform Kaiservilla St Wolfgang Hallstatt © Lonely Planet Publications 245 THE SALZKAMMERGUT The Salzkammergut Sometimes called the ‘cradle of Austrian culture’, the Salzkammergut is a spectacular region of alpine and sub-alpine lakes, picturesque valleys, rolling hills and rugged, steep mountain ranges. The highest mountains climb to almost 3000m. Not least because of the Salzkammergut’s startling beauty, parts of this region – especially those lakes easily reached from Salzburg – can at times be swamped with visitors. But don’t despair – much of the region is remote wil- derness, and even in those heavily visited parts such as the Wolfgangsee and Mondsee, you’ll always find isolated sections where peaceful, glassy waters provide limitless opportunities for boating, swimming, fishing or just sitting on the shore and chucking stones into the water. The popular Hallstätter See is no exception. When the pretty streets in Hallstatt township are full of summer visitors, across the lake a sleepy, swampy Obertraun retains a village atmosphere. Strike out deeper into the region, and you will be rewarded with isolated splendour. Salt is the ‘white gold’ of the Salzkammergut, and the mines that made it famous now make for an interesting journey back in time to the settlers of the Iron Age Hallstatt culture, and to the Celts and Romans – all of whom sullied their hands in the mines. Along the western side of the Hallstätter See is a pipeline reputed to be the oldest in the world, used to transport brine. Today, the narrow swathe cut out to build and service the pipeline is a lush hiking trail. Whatever your reason for coming to the Salzkammergut – swimming, boating, hiking, climbing or exploring cultures – this region rewards the curious and adventurous. HIGHLIGHTS Reeling from views at the surreal 5Fingers platform ( p253 ) in the Dachstein Mountains Hiking around the Hallstätter See ( p249 ) from Obertraun to Hallstatt and cooling off in the crystal waters between trails Exploring the Wolfgangsee and the remark- able pilgrimage church in St Wolfgang Gmunden ( p260 ), filled with priceless works of art Strolling through the Kaiservilla ( p247 ), Franz Josef’s summer residence, now a St Wolfgang handsome museum set in parkland Kaiservilla Plunging into the chilling depths to masterfully illuminated towers of ice in the Hallstatt Dachstein Caves ( p252 ) Dachstein Caves 5Finger Platform Finding the toilet in Gmunden’s Museum für Historische Sanitärobjeckte ( p257 ) – a museum dedicated to loos? They must be potty… 246 THE SALZKAMMERGUT •• Orientation & Information lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com BAD ISCHL •• Orientation & Information 247 THE SALZKAMMERGUT 0 20 km erage temperature of 15°C to 25°C. In spring lowed and were nicknamed the Salzprinzen THE SALZKAMMERGUT 0 12 miles and autumn especially, beware of the so-called (Salt Princes). A8 A25 To ‘string rain’ – a soft, yet drenching rain that Rather in the manner of a salmon return- Wels Linz (24km); Vienna (200km) can soak you through before you’ve even no- ing to its place of birth, Franz Josef made an ticed it. During winter (mid-November to annual pilgrimage to Bad Ischl, making it his Lambach February) the average lies at around -4°C. summer home for the next 60 years and haul- THE SALZKAMMERGUT 122 ing much of the European aristocracy in his Krems- Getting There & Away wake. The fateful letter he signed declaring Attnang- 144 A1 münster war on Serbia and sparking off WWI bore a Puchheim To reach the Salzkammergut from Salzburg Vöcklamarkt 1 Vorchdorf by car or motorcycle, take the A1 to reach the Bad Ischl postmark. Strasswalchen Vöcklabruck Today’s Bad Ischl is a handsome town that 145 A9 north of the region, or Hwy 158 to Bad Ischl. A1 Travelling north–south, the main road is Hwy makes a handy base for visiting the region’s Schörfling Pinsdorf five main lakes. Gmunden 145 (the Salzkammergut Bundesstrasse) which Attersee Weyregg 120 follows the rail line for most of its length. By Altmünster Kirchdorf Salzach 152 Traunstein Mondsee (1691m) an der Krems train, the main rail routes into the province Orientation & Information A1 Attersee Traunsee Grünau Bad Ischl’s town centre is compactly con- Heckenau are from Salzburg or Linz, with a change at 151 Alberfeldkogel Traunkirchen Mondsee (1708m) Attnang-Puchheim onto the regional north– tained within a bend of the Traun River. There Habernau Fuschlsee 154 Feuerkogel Ebensee (1592m) south railway line. are moneychanging facilities at the post office Salzburg Schafberg (1783m) Almsee Seehaus 153 145 and train station. St Gilgen Falkenstein (795m) Offensee To UPPER AUSTRIA Post office (Bahnhofstrasse; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, Munich Zwölferhorn St Wolfgang Schönberg To Graz Getting Around Woising (190km) (München; 130km) (1520m) Bad Ischl (2093m) 9am-noon Sat) (2064m) The Salzkammergut is crossed by regional Hallein Wolfgangsee 158 Strobl Salzkammergut Info-Center (%240 00-0; www T o t e s trains on a north–south route, passing Mt Katrin b i r SALZBURG (1542m) Sandling G e g e .salzkammergut.co.at; Gützstrasse 12; h9am-8pm) A Elmberg Hebenkas through Attnang-Puchheim on the Salzburg– (1717m) Altausseer (2128m) Postalm (2285m) helpful private regional agency with bike rental (per 24hr Bad Goisern See Toplitzsee Linz line and Stainach-Irdning on the Berchtes- Kuchl Steeg Grundlsee €13) and internet (per 10 min €1.10). gaden Bad Aussee Hochmölbing Bischofshofen–Graz line. The rail line link- A10 Hallstätter (2332m) Tourist office (%277 57-0; www.badischl.at; See To Graz ing these two access points is 108km long, 162 (180km) Auböckplatz; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, 10am- 166 Gosau 145 and hourly trains take 2½ hours to complete Hallstatt Obertraun G E R M A N Y Stainach 1pm Sun) A telephone service (8am to 8pm) for rooms and Dachstein Ice Caves Krippenstein the journey. Smaller stations on this route nnengebir Te ge Gosausee (2109m) 5Finger Lookout information complements this office. STYRIA Irdning are unbesetzter Bahnhof (unattended train Gosaukamm (2459m) Hoher Dachstein station); at these you’ll have to use a plat- 166 (2995m) form ticket machine or pay on the train. Sights & Activities Stoderzinken Werfen (2048m) Attersee is also accessible by rail. KAISERVILLA A10 Franz Josef’s summer residence was the Bischofshofen Regular bus services connect all towns Radstadt Kaiservilla (%232 41; Jainzen 38; www.kaiservilla.com; 320 Donners- and villages in the area, though less fre- Schladming bachwald quently or not at all on weekends. For bus adult/student/child €9.80/6.50/4.50, grounds only adult/ student & child €3.50/2.50; h9.30am-4.45pm May-mid- To Bad Gastein To Villach To Murau times and prices from Salzburg to the vari- (50km) (120km) (35km) ous towns in the region, see p281 . Oct), an Italianate building that was bought Passenger boats ply the waters of the by his mother, the Princess Sophie, as an en- Orientation & Information Ironically, considering its later popularity as Attersee, Traunsee, Mondsee, Hallstätter gagement present for her son and Princess The Salzkammergut falls within three prov- a tourist area, the whole of the Salzkammergut See and Wolfgangsee. Elisabeth of Bavaria. Elisabeth, who loathed inces: Upper Austria, which takes the lion’s region was banned to visitors until the early The non-transferable Salzkammergut the villa and her husband in equal measure, share; Styria, comprising the small area 19th century because the Salzburg govern- Erlebnis Card, available from tourist offices spent little time there, but the emperor came around Bad Aussee; and Salzburg prov- ment, which held a monopoly on salt min- and hotels, costs €4.90 and offers significant to love it and it became his permanent sum- ince. For general information, check out ing here, wanted to prevent salt from being discounts for 21 days between 1 May and mer residence for over 60 years. His mistress, www.salzkammergut.at. smuggled out. Later, Emperor Franz Josef’s 31 October. Katharina Schratt, lived nearby in a house patronage brought central European aris- chosen for her by the empress. History tocracy to the region in their droves. They The interior of the villa can only be seen Mining has been the principal activity in came to promenade around the parks of the by guided tours (which leave every half- the Salzkammergut since Celtic times, when elegant spa towns like Bad Ischl, or to tramp BAD ISCHL hour in summer), with English information tunnels were hacked into the rock and water through the snowy mountain forests in search %06132 / pop 14,070 sheets. You’ll learn of the emperor’s habit of sloshed down them to release the salt. After of unwary deer. This spa town’s reputation snowballed after rising at 3.30am each morning to take a bath the demise of the Celts, the prince-archbishops the Habsburg Princess Sophie took a treat- before beginning his day’s work punctually of Salzburg took over the shafts and used the Climate ment here to cure her infertility in 1828. at 4am, and that the only recreation he al- profits from the dark, dank mines to build Summers down by the Salzkammergut re- Within two years she had given birth to lowed himself was hunting. The walls of the their elaborate palaces and pleasure gardens. gion’s lakes tend to be quite warm, with an av- Emperor Franz Josef I; two other sons fol- villa are liberally studded with the fruits of 248 BAD ISCHL •• Sights & Activities Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com SOUTHERN SALZKAMMERGUT •• Hallstätter See 249 THE SALZKAMMERGUT 0 200 m Hotel Garni Sonnhof (%230 78; www.sonnhof.at; serves prime-quality Austrian cuisine from BAD ISCHL 0 0.1 miles Bahnhofstrasse 4; s €65, d €90-120; p) Nestled in a a seasonal menu, with wines to match. It ACB D also has a couple of set menus (three/four To Salzburg To leafy glade of maple trees next to the station, (45km) Gmunden (25km); Linz (65km) this lovely hotel has cosy, traditional décor, courses €26/€30).
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