View of Scrabo

Newtownards Walking Guide

visitstrangfordlough.co.uk Map 2 6 1 Old Regent House 1 2 St Mark’s Parish Church 14 3 The Hospital (The Old Workhouse) 3 5 4 A view of 5 Regency Gift House, Library (The Queen’s Hall) and Open and Direct Building 4 12 13 11 Strean Presbyterian Church 6 Conway 7 The Market Cross Square 8 (Extended Tour Route) 9 The War Memorial and Rose Garden 10 Newtownards Priory 8 11 The Blair Mayne Statue 12 The Ards TT (Tourist Trophy) 7 To Movilla Abbey 13 Ards Arts Centre 14 The Old Brewery/ Visitor Information Centre and Ards Crafts

9 10

Please note that this map is not to scale and is for reference only Newtownards Walking Guide Historical Walking Trail of Newtownards, Co

This tour begins at the Visitor surface over grass to the Movilla Information Centre on Regent Abbey site. Please be aware when Street located beside the bus crossing the road and keep an station (point 14). eye out for traffic at all times. The tour will last approximately The main route consists of one hour. For your convenience, flat concrete footpaths with there are also public toilets pedestrian crossing opportunities. and a wide range of cafes and If you extend your walk please restaurants in Newtownards. be aware of a gradual incline along footpaths with an uneven

We hope you enjoy learning more about the area. Be sure to look out for the other walking guides in the series. These can be downloaded from www.visitstrangfordlough.co.uk along with ideas on what to see and do in the area. We appreciate your comments and suggestions so please contact us via the website.

Just to set the scene, let’s start with a little history about Newtownards

Location Early Settlements Situated 10 miles from , The first settlers in the area came Newtownards, nestling at the from either North West England foot of the Craigantlet Hills, has or the Isle of Man. They used the Lough at its heart and lough and its resources such as overlooks the northern shores of fish, seals and berries as their the . source of food. Finnian, a pupil of Saint Mochai who was converted by St Patrick, founded his own monastery at Movilla, to the east of Newtownards in 540AD.

Pages 2 – 3 Newtownards: Royal Charter Hugh Montgomery (1560 – In 1613, King James I granted 1636) was the Scot ‘Royal Charters’ to 40 towns who along with fellow Scottish across (14 now in lowlander, James Hamilton and 26 in the (1559- 1644), made the crossing Republic of Ireland). The town of from Portpatrick to Newtownards was among them. in 1606, bringing with them the While the original Charter has first wave of Scots whose number long been lost, an early Latin would reach 10,000 in the course copy of the document does exist of the next few years. and an English translation reveals They began the Royal-approved King James declared that, from 25 settlement of lands in the East March 1613: of . The granting of the “the aforesaid town of Newtowne Royal Charter was a reward for in the Ardes aforesaid and all and the extent and speed of the singular castles, messuages, tofts, settlement and Montgomery was mills, houses, edifices, structures, made First Viscount of the Great curtilages, gardens, orchard Ardes on 3rd May 1622. gardens, waste grounds, lands, While Montgomery was named tenements and hereditaments as the first Provost, the “first and whatsoever lying or being in or modern twelve free burgesses within the said town of Newtowne of the aforesaid borough” were aforesaid or in or within the declared by King James to be precincts of the same town in “George Conigham, Patrick Showe, the County of Down aforesaid Patrick Mountgomerie, David henceforth be and for future Kenidie, Thomas Mountgomerie, times in perpetuity shall be an William Mountgomerie, Robert entire and free borough of itself Conigham, Robert Mountgomerie, by the name of the borough Alexander Gordovne, James of Newtowne”. Doncan, William Callender and For the first time, the town of George Gibson”. Newtowne held Borough status. The provost and burgesses had With it came the establishment “the full power and authority of “a body corporate and politic” to elect, send and return two consisting of a provost and twelve discreet and fit men to serve burgesses – the equivalent of our and attend in every parliament current Mayor and Councillors. in our said Kingdom of Ireland hereafter to be held”. As well as The Charter goes on to name this right to return two members the first Provost of Newtowne as to parliament, the new corporate “Huge Mountgomerie, Knight”. body could also “hold a Court in Newtownards Walking Guide

View from Scrabo Hill in Newtownards some convenient and The status came into being open place within the formally from noon on the 23rd aforesaid borough”. day of May 1938 when the first meeting of the new Borough In the 19th century the Council was held and the first Municipal Corporations Act Mayor, Councillor W H Simms, (Ireland) 1840 was passed by was elected. Parliament and the new law dissolved all but 10 of the When 1973 brought local existing 68 boroughs in Ireland. government reform in Northern The Borough of Newtownards Ireland, a district council whose was among them. area included an existing municipal borough could In March 1937, the then resolve to adopt the Charter of Newtownards Urban District the old municipality and thus Council took advantage of a continue to enjoy Borough change in the law brought about status. The new authority by the Municipal Corporations representing the Ards therefore Act (Northern Ireland) 1926 became . and petitioned the Governor of The population now stands Northern Ireland for the grant around 78078. of a Charter of Incorporation which would see the town once In 2015, following the Review again designated as a Borough. of Public Administration, the 26 Following a recommendation local government councils in by the Privy Council of Northern N Ireland were reduced to 11, Ireland to the Governor, James with Ards Borough Council and Albert Edward, Duke of Abercorn, North Down Borough Council Newtownards was granted amalgamating to form Ards and its Borough status by royal North Down Borough Council. prerogative during the reign of George VI.

Pages 4 – 5 Let’s begin the walking trail

At the Visitor Information Centre, turn to your right and continue passing by the bus station.

Old Regent House 1 On your right, set back from the road, Located on land given to Lord is a large building constructed in 1820 as Montgomery by the King during the a home for the owner of the town brewery, early 1600’s, the old Regent House Peter Johnston. The building later became building is one of the few examples of the first site of Regent House School. Greek Revival architecture in County It takes its name from the “Prince Regent” Down. It boasts many spectacular who visited Newtownards to open Regent cornice ceilings along with a Street which is the main thoroughfare breathtaking ornate dome situated through the town. above a traditional split staircase.

Now continue along your route as far as the traffic lights and cross the road on William Street.

Saint Mark’s Church 2 Saint Mark’s Parish Church, “the prettiest The Londonderry family contributed to building in the town” as classed in the the cost of St Mark’s and their family notes to the first Ordnance Survey maps crest is carved above the west door. in 1832, was constructed of Scrabo The weavers of Newtownards donated a stone in 1817. The building is a good rose window in 1868. The east window example of Planter’s . commemorates the fallen in the First It cost some £5446 to build. Scottish World War and the baptistery was colonists worshipped in the Priory church donated in 1966 as a memorial to Dame on Court Street, then moved to Saint Edith Helen, Dowager Marchioness of Mark’s in the eighteenth century when Londonderry. the building was completed. To retain continuity, one of the windows of the Priory was re-constructed in the south transept of the new church.

Now cross Church Street at the traffic lights and walk the short distance as far as the gateposts and large entrance. Newtownards Walking Guide

Ards Hospital 3 [The Old Workhouse] keep looking for gainful employment outside the walls of the workhouse. The dark grey building visible from the main entrance to the hospital constitutes However, despite efforts to reduce the remains of the workhouse. It has now occupancy, the numbers swelled greatly been renovated to become part of the during the Irish famine. Designed by hospital unit. Access to the workhouse is George Wilkinson to hold 600 people, by permission only. the workhouse held over 1000 residents at one point. Opened in 1842 as part of the Poor Law Act 1838, the site was built to During the 20th century, the infirmary accommodate 600 people. Called the poor wing and fever block were put to use to man’s jail, the workhouse was one of 43 treat any poor, sick person in the area and such establishments constructed in Ulster. not just in-mates who were ill. In 1932 an It was a much regimented environment Edinburgh doctor, Alexander Calder, took with males, females and children separated over the hospital expanding its facilities from each other on entry. Life was made as and capabilities and it gained a good difficult as possible so that residents would reputation for treatment and care.

Retrace your steps to the traffic lights and cross Frederick Street, Follow the footpath as far as the roundabout.

St Mark’s Parish Church, Newtownards Pages 6 – 7 Scrabo Tower

A view of Scrabo Tower 4a From this roundabout, joining Frederick late Marquis, copies of the national and Mill Street, you can enjoy a view of and local newspapers of the day, an Scrabo Tower, the most famous landmark Ordnance Survey map of , in the area. a list of those who subscribed to the building of the monument (one of A competition was held in 1855 to whom was Emperor Napoleon III of select a design for a fitting monument France) and coins of the realm. on Scrabo Hill with a budget of £2000. This monument was to be built in honour The care of the tower remained in the of the 3rd Marquis of Londonderry. hands of one family for more than 100 The actual designer of the tower, Charles years. The last residents, the Millin Lanyon, came fourth in the competition sisters, Elizabeth, Jan and Agnes, but was selected because his design came ran a very popular tea room in it. within budget. The tower was then built The sisters were born in the Tower and in 1857 on the site of an iron-age fort were grandchildren of the first tenant, and the architectural style is that of the William McKay. Today the tower is Scottish watch towers once built along the managed by the Northern Ireland border with England. Environment Agency (NIEA) and, at the time of writing, is undergoing remedial On March 6 1857 the foundation stone work so public access is not possible. was laid along with a time capsule containing an inscribed scroll to the

Scrabo Hill 4b Scrabo Hill was formed as a geological Today the tower is managed by the accident. The earliest reference to the Northern Ireland Environment Agency hill was as early as 1275 and named (NIEA) and, at the time of writing, is Scraboc from the Irish “Screabach” undergoing remedial work so public meaning rough or scraggy which is an access is not possible. apt reference to the thin soil covering. Newtownards Walking Guide

Turn the corner and walk along Mill Street until you reach Gibsons Lane. Walking past the bus shelter, continue back onto Regent Street by crossing at the lights.

Regency Gift House, Library (The Queen’s Hall) and Open & Direct Building 5 Walk along this stretch of Regent Street Queen’s Hall and observe buildings of historical interest. The late Queen Mother placed the foundation stone of the Queen’s Hall on Georgian Regency Gift House 8th May 1958. The building is now also Regent Street became a prosperous area in home to Newtownards library. which to reside during the Regency period of 1811-1820. Due to the illness of King Open & Direct Building George III, his son the Prince of Wales was On the corner with Mary Street this appointed Prince Regent, hence the name. building, originally the Belfast Bank, Developments during this time began to became the Northern Bank in 1854 and shape the town that we now recognise and still boasts a Belfast coat of arms high on much of this work was a result of activities the front façade. The Italianate architecture undertaken by the Marquis of Londonderry was designed by Charles Lanyon and bears who had control of municipal affairs. It is close similarity to the edifices along the thought that the gift house was built at canals of Venice. this time.

Now go around the corner into Mary Street and walk until you reach the junction with West Street.

Strean Presbyterian Church 6 The congregation of Stream can be found in the town centre of Presbyterian Church was formed Newtownards. Its spire can be seen in 1865. The beautiful Gothic-style from miles around. building made from Scrabo stone

Retrace your steps back to Regent road at the Ulster Bank and follow Street. Staying on the same side of the Frances Street past the offices of road as before, continue on and you the Chronicle Newspaper and down will pass the Post Office. Cross the the hill to your right.

Pages 8 – 9 The Market Cross 7 Newtownards has the only surviving 17th However this golden age of progress century market cross in Northern Ireland. was to be the calm before the storm. Standing at the east end of High Street, Newtownards was shaken first by a it is an octagonal monument originally rebellion of local native Irish in 1641, built in 1636. It had resembled a similar then the market cross was destroyed by cross in Edinburgh by having a flat roof, Cromwell’s Commonwealth troops 17 on which there was a carved lion. years later because of the Montgomery family’s allegiance to the royalist cause. Plantation villages of this time tended to It was rebuilt in 1666 with a conical flourish or die. Newtownards grew rapidly roofed structure but never regained the into a market town. The market was of esteem it once enjoyed. One major reason crucial importance to the town’s for this was that the commercial centre prosperity and this was symbolised by of Newtownards had shifted to Conway the construction of a market cross. Square with its impressive Market It represented, in stone, what the town House. It was considered a more elegant stood for – trade, market economy, representation of the town’s progress. progress and civilisation.

The Market Cross Newtownards Walking Guide

If you want to extend your tour at this Garden. To get there, cross at the lights point you can continue to Movilla at the bottom of the hill, follow Castle Abbey, located 1 mile east of the town Street round to the left past the Old centre. If not, please move to stop Cross pub and cross the road – number 9, the War Memorial and Rose take extra care on this busy road.

Movilla Abbey 8 [extended tour route] the 15th century and survived until the suppression of religious houses in the Follow along Movilla Street, crossing 1540’s. Only one stone survives the pre George Street at the lights. Walk along Norman period: a slab with a sharply Upper Movilla Street, which eventually cut ringed cross and an inscription in becomes Old Movilla Road, as far as the Irish asking for a prayer for Dertrend, gates of Movilla cemetery. “or do Dertrend.” This hilltop was occupied by one of All that remains of the monastery today Ulster’s most important early churches is an undivided chancel and nave, 107 associated with the 6th century St feet long and 20 feet wide, dating from Finnian. Plundered by the Vikings in the 13th and 15th centuries respectively. 842AD it was refounded in the 12th After the dissolution of the monasteries century as an abbey and it adopted the in 1541, James McGuilmere, the last Augustine rule, dedicated to St Malachy. abbot, surrendered the lands and tithes This reflected a decision made by Celtic to the crown. They became part of the monasteries to seek closer integration territory claimed by the with Europe. It served as a parish church O’Neills. The stone buildings were of the area. Indeed, seven 13th century burned in 1572 to prevent a fledgling coffin lids with foliate crosses have English settlement developing. been found around the building, built The sacred history of the site has been into the inside of the north wall. Shears recognised in its continual use, for many indicate a woman’s burial, and a sword centuries, as a cemetery. for a man. The church was extended in

The War Memorial and Rose Garden 9 This quiet corner of Newtownards was This green area, known as the “bowling originally the town centre until 1636. green” belonged to the Marquis of Note the date of 1613 on the memorial, Londonderry who gave the land as a a reminder of the date of the granting of free gift to the town. The war memorial the town charter. As part of the charter was built in 1934 and commemorates permission was granted to hold 3 fairs residents of the town who were either every year and to this day, a harvest fair killed or went missing during the First is held in September as designated by and Second World Wars. King James I.

Walk through the garden and exit on Court Street. Take care when crossing the road. Pages 10 – 11 The Newtownards Priory 10 The Priory constitutes the ruins of a The Priory was destroyed by the Dominican Friary founded in 1244 by O’Neills in 1572 to prevent Queen the Savage family. They were followers Elizabeth I from planting an English of who brought the settlement in the area. The structure lay Dominicans from and Drogheda. dormant until the Scottish plantation The priory was originally 96ft in length of 1606-1609 when Hugh Montgomery and 24ft wide and 1 storey high with restored, extended and lived in the various additions over the years. building for a time. When Saint Mark’s opened in 1817 the Priory lost its status Known as the Black Priory, owing to the as parish church in the town. black mantle worn over the white habit, the Dominicans were a mendicant order Access to the interior is restricted and whose sole responsibility was to take opening is by special arrangement the message of the gospel to the people. only through the Northern Ireland National conferences of the entire order Environment Agency. Crossing back were held on the site in both 1298 over Court Street at the island, the and 1312. Interestingly, Juventus and route now takes you back towards the Newcastle United soccer teams who both main shopping street in Newtownards wear black and white strips were formed which is a myriad of long established by the Dominican orders! independent traders including department stores and boutiques.

At the Danske Bank cross over High Mayne statue, look to the right of the Street and head towards Conway Town Hall building. Square. For the next stop, the Blair

The Blair Mayne Statue 11 Blair “Paddy” Mayne was a pupil at raiding airfields and blowing up planes. Regent House School in the 1920’s and It is said of Blair himself that, in one 1930’s. A powerful athlete, he played lightning attack, he personally destroyed rugby for Queen’s University and was 47 enemy planes. Sadly, after the later capped in six international games. wartime years, Lt Col Blair Mayne met He also won the amateur heavyweight his death in tragic circumstances in a car boxing championship of Northern crash in Newtownards. The bronze statue Ireland as a student. During the Second reflects the breadth of his character, not World War this famous son of the only a man of action but of reflection, Ards thrilled the world with his daring carrying his favourite poetry book. exploits behind enemy lines in Europe Blair Mayne was a highly decorated and the Middle East. soldier and held four distinguished As one of six co-founders of the newly service orders, Legion d’Honneur and formed Special Air Service (SAS) he Croix de Guerre. One of these orders was was responsible for some of the most awarded when he was a junior officer intrepid forays in the Allied campaigns. which was considered highly impressive. They operated in hostile territory, Newtownards Walking Guide

Now look to the left of the Town Hall building, just across from the Blair Mayne Statue and you will see the TT monument.

The Ards TT 12 From 1928 to 1936, the Tourist Trophy Then the cars left Newtownards and (TT) motor races took place on a road roared along the straight road to . circuit encompassing Dundonald, That section was the fastest part of the Newtownards and Comber. At the time it course. The following section passed was Northern Ireland’s premier sporting around the notorious “Butcher’s Shop” event regularly attracting crowds in corner in Comber and along the excess of half a million spectators Belfast Road to the hairpin in Dundonald. and was described as one of the most This hairpin was also the end of the tram exciting road races in the world! line from Belfast so it was here that many city folk made their way to watch The Ards TT was the culmination of much the racing. Then from the hairpin it was thought and enthusiasm by two people. back to start the circuit all over again. One was the legendary , the other was Wallace McLeod. McLeod The first driver to complete 30 laps of was the head of the motor engineering the circuit was the winner. However on school at the Belfast Technical College. September 5th 1936, in wet conditions, The men were helped in their dream Belfast driver Jack Chambers lost by the fact that (unlike the rest of the control of his car and crashed into the ) the law in Ulster enabled crowd in Newtownards killing eight roads to be closed off for motor racing. spectators. This tragedy brought an end In 1927 the two men visited a race at to nine years of racing over the Ards Brooklands and persuaded some of the road circuit. drivers that, if they could find a suitable Ulster road circuit, then they would participate. The venue was found and the six hour race was organised under the auspices of the Royal Automobile Club. The circuit was in the form of a triangle 13.7 miles in total. The race started at the pits on the Newtownards Road, Dundonald. In fact, there is still a little commemorative building and plaque at that spot to mark the location. The cars then set off towards Newtownards via Quarry Corner then up and over Bradshaw’s Brae and into Conway Square, Newtownards. Ards Arts Centre 13 Ards Arts Centre (Market House) is steeped in history. The ground floor of the building acted as a market for local traders. There was also a “lock – up” cell with grilled windows around which were grooves reputed to have been made by the fingers of prisoners! The upper storey contained an assembly room, now called the Londonderry Room. The Market House was seized by the United Irishmen, on their way to the Battle of during the 1798 Rebellion. By the end of Sunday 10th June the whole in the 1900’s as a of North Down and the Ards Peninsula gift by Lord Londonderry. was in the hands of the rebels. When the Today the building is home to Ards Arts authorities resumed control by the end Centre, where a variety of artwork is of the week a period of savage reprisals regularly exhibited and is open to ensued. Rebels were rounded up and the public. imprisoned in the cells below the Market House to await judgement and execution Conway Square in which the town hall by hanging. By the end of the 19th century sits was named after Lady Sarah Frances the building was used more as Seymour – Conway, daughter in law a typical Town Hall than a court or market of Alexander Stewart, who established house. The Town Hall was given to the .

Exit Conway Square to the left of the Town Hall and walk back along Regent Street to the Visitor Information Centre and to the final point on the tour.

The Visitor Information Centre & Ards Crafts 14 This building used to house the town brewery in 1819 to its present brewery. Originally the brewery sat location. The rear of the building behind the Dominican Priory in Court still shows evidence of the Street and was built by the Colville original stonework. By 1837 family who became landlords in more than 7000 barrels of Newtownards from 1675 until 1744. beer were being brewed annually at this location. As part of the development of Regent Street, Robert Stewart moved the Newtownards Walking Guide

Ards Visitor Information Centre

Have you ever called into Ards We also hold events guides for Northern Visitor Information Centre? Ireland’s large attractions and museums such as The Opera House, National Trust If not, whether it’s your first time properties & the Ulster Folk & Transport in this part of the world or you Museum. Our events board is ever live nearby, we would love to see changing, with posters for local events you! Located in Newtownards, and activities. just beside the bus station, the We can help you get from A to B with Centre is your first port of call for maps for sale, souvenirs of your visit local and national information and a vast array of local books. The on attractions, activities, Centre is also home to Ards Crafts which stocks a wonderful selection of locally accommodation, events and handcrafted products. much, much more. The Centre has a large range of guides and leaflets on many visitor facilities For further information, throughout Northern Ireland and please get in touch: friendly staff waiting to help you find the best ways to spend your time in this wonderful part of Ards Visitor Information Centre the world. 31 Regent Street NEWTOWNARDS Northern Ireland There are lots of hidden gems waiting to be BT23 4AD discovered on your doorstep and further S 028 9182 6846 afield - best of all many are even free! Our k [email protected] staff are armed with all the information you need to get the best value for your money whether looking for a day trip, overnight stay or short break away. visitardsandnorthdown.com

The Visitor Information Centre Pages 14 – 15 For more information contact any of the following Visitor Information Centres: Ards Visitor Information Centre 31 Regent Street Newtownards NEWTOWNARDS BT23 4AD S 028 9182 6846 Belfast k [email protected]

Bangor Visitor Information Centre Tower House, 34 Quay Street Bangor B20 5ED S 028 9127 0069 k [email protected]

(Seasonal office Easter – end August) Visitor Information Centre The Stables, Castle Street PORTAFERRY BT22 1NZ S 028 4272 9882

(Seasonal office Easter – end August) @VisitStrangford Cockle Row Visitor Information Centre The Harbour, Main Street /VisitStrangfordLough BT19 6JR S 028 9127 2269

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Ards and North Down Borough Council presents the information as a public service, and while every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy, the Council cannot accept responsibility and assumes no liability for any action undertaken by any person using the information contained herein. The content of this guide is copyright of Borough Council and should not be reused without permission.