Notion Press
Old No. 38, New No. 6 McNichols Road, Chetpet Chennai - 600 031
First Published by Notion Press 2018 Copyright © M. Gayathri 2018 All Rights Reserved.
ISBN 978-1-64324-884-4
This book has been published with all efforts taken to make the material error-free after the consent of the author. However, the author and the publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.
No part of this book may be used, reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Contents
Acknowledgements v
1. “Himalayas Were Ever Calling Me” 1
2. The Annapurna Massif 4
3. Links Formed 10
4. Surprise, Surprise, a Friend Knocking 13
5. The Preparation and Packing for the Trek 16
6. Reaching Nepal’s Capital Kathmandu 20
7. “Good Morning” Kathmandu 23
8. Floating Vishnu 33
9. Durbar Square of Kathmandu 36
10 Pashupathi Nath Temple 41
11. My Mental Preparation for Trekking 46
12. Meeting Dr. Hemanth and Rest of Mountain Movers 49
13. Pokhara 53
iii Contents
14. Travelling to Nayapul and Then to Sewee 60
15. Much Awaited Moment “Arrived” 68
16. First Challenge to Reach Jhinnu Danda at 5770 ft 72
17. Jhinnu Danda to Bamboo, 5770 ft to 7675 ft on 29th April 2018 86
18. Story of Namaste 90
19. A Rare “Olympic” at ABC in Year 2018 92
20. To Deurali at 10500 ft on 30th April 2018 99
21. Final Destination 109
22. Reaching Annapurna Base Camp 4130M/13500 ft 114
23. Gandharva Loka 120
24. “Namaste Point and Photo Session” 121
25. Early Morning at Annapurna 125
26. Tracing Back the Path on 2nd May 2018 130
27. Panic Mahesh. 3rd May 2018 136
28. Reaching ‘Hotel Tara’ in Pokhara 144
29. Pokhara Sight Seeing 146
30. Kathmandu 5th May 2018 149
31. Thamel 151
32. 6th May Returning Back “Home” 154
iv “Himalayas Were Ever Calling Me”
|| asti uttarasyAM dishi devata Atma himAlayaH nAma naga adhirAjaH pUrva aparau toya nidhi vigAhya sthidaH pR^thivya Iva mAna daNDaH ||
In the Opening verse of Kumarasambhava, Kalidasa describes the glory of the Himalayas.
Translation: There is, in the northern direction; the supreme Lord (Adhiraja) of mountains, possessed of a Divine nature (devatma) by name Himalaya, who having plugged in to the Eastern and the Western oceans, stands as if he is the measuring rod of the Earth.
As Swami Vivekananda describes the important words in this verse, Devathma ensouled by Divinity and Manadanda – measuring rod. So Swamiji says “the poet implies and suggests that the Himalaya is not a ‘mere wall,’ accidentally constructed by nature but it is ensouled by Divinity and is the protector of India and her civilization from icy winds of arctic region and from incursions of invaders.”
The Himalaya further protects India by sending the great rivers Sindhu, Ganga and Brahmaputra fed by melted ice
1 You, Me and Annapurna irrespective of the monsoon rains. “Manadanda” implies and there by affirms that, the Indian Vedantic-Civilization is the best of all human civilizations. This Vedantic civilization is due to contributions of many Sadhus, Rishis, Yogis who were all influenced by Himalaya. In fact, it, at times became the seat of knowledge for many Sadhus millions of years ago, in the recent past, and even now, as I am writing and will continue to be in future.
Himalaya
One such Sadhu of recent past is Swami Rama and in his book Swami Rama “Living with Himalayan Masters” writes in a chapter on “The sacred Himalayas,” “Himalaya comes from Sanskrit word Hima – snow and Alaya –home. But they are not merely the home of snow, but that they have also been a stronghold of Yogic wisdom and spirituality for millions of people regardless of their religious beliefs.”
As a proof that many sages who wrote our ancient scriptures were influenced by Himalaya “An Unknown Sage” presented Swami Rama “A leaf of bhojapatra,” the paper made
2 “Himalayas Were Ever Calling Me” of bark on which our ancient scriptures were written and in it was inscribed “Let the world be little with you. Let you be on the path of spirituality.” Himalaya is mentioned earliest in Rigveda. “It is to he, to whom belong, these celestial mountain ranges” says sage and describe its stretch as “the expanse of the two arms of the great being.” The epic Ramayana, Mahabharatha and Puranas describe this as the region where the Gods dwell. Whereas Master E.K. Author of “Spiritual Astrology” quotes the “yogis of Himalayas can give out the correct information about the effect of moon on the earth.” This is in that period, when science had not developed satellites and moon expeditions. According to “SkandaPurana” as the sun dries the morning dew so does the mere sight of the Himalaya dissipate the sins of man. Along with these greats I have even read my Guru “Sri M” writings on Himalaya especially on nature, and music in Himalayan valleys.” I have even read similar sentences in books like Autobiography of Swami Yogananda and also a book by “Om” Swami
These are the recent and also inspirations from past for me to explore “Himalayas”
So “Himalayas were ever Calling” me.
3 The Annapurna Massif
Himalaya is massif in many ways. It is very much so not only by its geographical existence, but also in its cultural diversity, in religious believes of its inhabitants, by its flora and fauna and by its spiritual diversity.
The massif, mammoth, mountains is in Asia – separating the plains of the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetian plateau.
The range has many of the Earth’s highest row of peaks, including the highest, Mount Everest, It includes over ‘50’ mountains exceeding 23,600 ft in elevation, and including ten of the fourteen 8000 meter peaks. By contrast the highest peak outside Asia is 6961 mts only i.e. Aconacagua in the Andes.
Elevated by the subduction of the Indian tectonic plate under the Eurasian plate, the Himalayan mountain ranges runs, west – northwest to east-south east in an arc form for 2,400 kilometers long.
4 The Annapurna Massi
Map depicting Himalayan terrain
Its western boundary, Nanga Parbat lies south of indus river. Its eastern boundary, NamchaBarwa, lies west of upper stream of Brahmaputra river – (Yarlung Tsangpo). Bordering in the north to north west is Karkoram and hindukush ranges. And in South we see Indo Gangetic plain. It is inhabited by some 52.7 million people and spread across 5 countries. India, Nepal, Bhutan, China and Pakistan.It has shaped cultures and religions like, Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, Sikhism, even Islamic religion.
5 You, Me and Annapurna
In the middle of the great curve of the Himalayan Mountains lie the 8000 mts peaks of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna in Nepal Separated by the Kali Gandaki Gorge. Annapurna massif is in north central Nepal and includes one peak over 26,000 ft, 13 peaks over 23,000 ft and 16 more over 20000 ft.
The massif is 55 kilometers long and is bounded by the Kali Gandaki Gorge on the west, the Marshyangdi River on the north and east and by Pokhara Valley on the south. At the western end the massif encloses a high basin called the Annapurna Sanctuary.
The face of Annapurna massif “Annapurna 1”
6 The Annapurna Massi
Annapurna 1 (Main) is the 10th highest mountain in the world at 26545 ft and was the first of the eight thousanders to be climbed. First ascent by Maurice herzoy and Louis Lachenal in 3rd June 1950. Easiest route is northwest face.
The entire massif and surrounding area are protected with in 7629 square kilometers Annapurna Conservation Area, the first and Largest conservation area in Nepal. This area is home to several world class treks including Annapurna Sanctuary and Annapurna Circuit.
Historically, the Annapurna peaks are among the world’s most dangerous mountains to climb second only to Kangchenjunga. The fatality to summit ratio is 32% is the highest of any of the eight-thousanders. In Particular the south face is the dangerous to climb. In October 2014 Annapurna trek witnessed one of the Nepal’s worst ever trekking disaster killing 43 people from Nepal. Israel, Canada, India, Slovakia and Poland and 175 people were injured.
‘Annapurna’ is a Sanskrit word meaning Anna-Food or grains and poorna “Full” complete and perfect. It is another name of Goddess Parvathi giver of “Food and nourishment.”
7 You, Me and Annapurna
The Annapurna conservation area is a well known trekking region. There are 3 major trekking routes in the Annapurna region. The Jomsom trek to Muktinath. The Annapurna sanctuary route to “Annapurna base camp.” And the Annapurna circuit which does outer parikrama of Annapurna massif. The town of Pokhara is starting point for these treks. About 2/3rd of all trekkers to Nepal visit the Annapurna region.
The area is easily accessible, guest houses in the hill are plentiful, and treks here are incredible, diverse, serene, with high mountains, low land villages and nature is at its bounty with rivers, plants, flowers…….
Annapurna Glacier
8 The Annapurna Massi
THE cute “MACHAPUCHARE” or fish tail mountain
Some local residents believe—It is abode of ‘GANESHJI’
9 Links Formed
No doubt that “Whatsapp” has become undoubtedly the linking machine. Strangely though, it links people of common ideas, thoughts, emotions before one can see each other or meet each other physically. Before going further I have to mention 2–3 things here. They being, I stay with my son Suhas, a national swimmer, in a place called Puttur near, Mangaluru, a coastal town in Karnataka for his swimming coaching and engineering study. And my husband Dr. Mahesh, lives in our home town Davangere, and he is going to celebrate his 50th birth day in year 2018.
Further there was this unholy bitter KPME act in Karnataka, which provoked state wide agitation and culminated in ‘Belagavi chalo jatha’ to hold an agitation there.
As a part of that, Doctors from Puttur in quite large numbers went to Belagavi, the group included many lady doctors too, including myself and in the trip I became friendly with Dr. Pratibha, senior Ob & Gynaec specialist of Puttur.
For the exchange & information, about KPME and to know progress about the act, IMA Puttur secretary, Dr. S.M. Prasad created “Puttur Doctors” Whatsapp group. Though it helped everyone to know the “news” about ongoing
10 Links Formed strike, it also brought all doctors of Puttur on a single platform. Some of the IMA information was also passed on to every one through that group.
One day as I was going through Whatsapp message casually “out of the blue” like a ‘thunderbolt” my eyes were caught in this message A “PDF” announcing Annapurna base camp trek, by Mountain movers. This was very surprisingly, a doctor couple’s initiative. Who says Doctor’s cannot be small time “Entrepreneurs.” This couple is dis-proving it.
As I tumbled upon this PDF file, I called on to Prasad, got the information that Dr. Pratibha Madam, was on board already for ABC. Though I vaguely remember her mentioning the same in Belagavi trip.
That means she was giving “distinction” marks to ever able, enthusiastic Dr. Hemanth, that we later found him to be and she also assured that we were in safe group. Later I contacted Dr. Hemanth himself.
And Hemanth the “captain of trekking group” first asked me to book tickets to Kathmandu and later he will add us to Annapurna trek group. So I booked tickets on “Royal Nepal Airlines” to Kathmandu for April 26th and informed Hemanth. Following which a group i.e. Annapurna base camp trekking Whatsapp group was formed and we, me and Mahesh were added on to that group of “29” trekkers from Gujarat and Karnataka.
This trekking group, Mountain movers is headed by Dr. Hemanth Professor of Surgery in Government – hospital
11 You, Me and Annapurna
Ahmedabad. The group usually conducts treks for Doctor’s and their families primarily, with 5 years of successful trekking history.
Though I had planned for a Himalayan trip, trekking was never in my thought. But I subconsciously or in true fact “Hastily saw, my closest dream to heart coming true. “The Himalayan Visit”!!
At this point of time I equated trekking to long stretches of walk between two mountains in a valley and crossing rivers on bridges and never to climbing up and climbing down on steps to reach 13,500 ft ABC.
12 Surprise, Surprise, a Friend Knocking
Dr. Lakshmi a dear friend of mine.
It’s told that as adults you don’t make close friends, but many times it is proved wrong, at least in my life.
As I joined MBBS, I got many friends and they are soul mates to me now.
So also when I joined JJMMC in Davanagere, my present home town as ENT Surgeon, I got some life time friends. And that is how I met Lakshmi who is Ob & Gynaec professor in JJMMC. She knows me very well and has been part of my ups & downs of life, has been part of joy, tears throughout the 20 years of association.
Friendship is a journey full of surprises, as we come, to know each other travelling together physically and mentally i.e. they stay in our thoughts any time.
Friends analyse each other’s action and may react very differently at times and these can become hurdles on the path of friendship. But despite all these, some relations persists & prolong and lasts long.
So, I am on few fascinating friendship journeys with few and one among them is Dr. Lakshmi.
13 You, Me and Annapurna
As one day I told her I am going to ABC trekking and explained a bit and told her that it is in Himalaya, she soon wanted to join.
I was surprised and also worried. Surprised as I know her, she never goes on long holidays. Worried because she never did any regular exercise or went on a walk. And this was trekking here. I and Mahesh doubted whether she can walk for 5–6 kms/day.
But she said she wanted to see Himalayas and as we both were going, she wanted to join us on trek.
But all of us were misreading collectively “Himalayan trekking” for long stretches of walk……… But Himalayas called us in many ways……
Lakshmi is a very keen reader and never misses any detail. But she also misread the trekking “Pdf” file posted in Whatsapp group by Dr. Hemanth which clearly stated long hours of trek not –‘walk’……
As Lakshmi’s husband wasn’t to accompany her she found Mrs. Swarna Reddy her relative as her companion.
They both booked tickets in the same flight 6 pm Royal Nepal airlines from Bengaluru to Kathmandu on 26th April 2018 as was ours.
So there stood the plane to carry the Himalayan explorers with different look outs from trek.
14 Surprise, Surprise, a Friend Knocking
Dr. Lakshmi
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