Handbook for Boys ACKNOWLEDGMENT

Handbook for Boys

Welcome to Boy Scouting! You are now joining more than three and a half million other boys and their leaders nationwide enjoying the game of Scouting. Lots of fun awaits you in the various activities of your Patrol and Troop. The skills that you will learn will help you to be of service to your fellowmen and your community. You will meet new friends and acquire wholesome experiences in camping, hiking, observation, swimming, first aid, pioneering, social activities, and social graces. The rules on how to play the game of Scouting are found in this book. You will learn how your Troop and Patrols are organized. You will read about the heart of Scouting which is the most important and enjoyable part – the Advancement Program. To learn its content by heart, you must read this handbook very often. The activities are easy to follow. They will make you enjoy the Scouting trail to citizenship. All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission in writing from the Boy Scouts of the Philippines.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT In behalf of the Boy Scouts of the Philippines, I would like to acknowledge the following dedicated Scouters whose generous cooperation and valuable assistance led to the completion of this handbook: Dr. CRISPIN J. DOMINGO, Chairman of the Boy Scouts Section Writing Team, Member of the Technical and Editorial Committee, for heading the team in refining and editing the whole manuscript; Dr. ROLANDO L. LONTOK, Mr. ROBERTO R. SANTOS, and Mr. CESAR A. CATAPANG, members of the Boy Scout Section Writing Team and BENONI C. TOLERO, Task Group Coordinator – for updating, improving, and finalizing the program, researching, supplementing, writing, collating, and organizing materials for the Handbook For Boys and the Troop Leader's Manual; Former National President JAIME Y. LADAO, the late R. R. DELA CRUZ who has served as Chief National Commissioner for so many years, and J. EDUARDO C. DELGADO for sharing their observations, experiences and ideas during the meetings of the Technical and Editorial Committee as well as those of the Boy Scout Writing Team. Mr. RICARDO L. MORELOS for editing the final copy of this handbook. The following staff members of the Boy Scouts of the Philippines for providing the technical experience, art, and secretarial service: Mr. ROGELIO R. VICENCIO, Assistant Secretary General; Mr. ROGELIO S VILLA, Director for Program and Adult Resources Development Division; Mr. CARMELO B. FRANCIA, Program Assistant; Mr. YSIDRO P. CASTILLO IV, Program Assistant; Mr. FREDERICK E. BONIFACIO and Ms. MELCHORA M. CASTILLO, Staff Artist and Photographer; Ms. REBECCA D. BELANDRES; Ms. MA. LUISA B. FABIAN; Ms. NATIVIDAD M. DAAROL and Ms. SOPHIA U. CASTILLO.

Former National Office Staff whose expertise and perseverance contributed, in one way or the other, to the final copy of this handbook: Mr. WILFREDO M. LOMANTAS, Mr. MAXIMO G. DE JESUS, Mr. CARLOS DL. FERRER, Mr. ANGEL D. MATIAS, Mr. BENITO C. GUZON, Mr. ROBERTO G. FELIX, Ms. LUZ L. TARAY, Ms. GERALDINE S. GOMEZ, and Ms. SONIA A. CALIXTRO. The Boy Scouts and Scout Leaders who served as models for the photographs included in this handbook.

Mabuhay kayong lahat!

(Signed) CARLOS C. ESCUDERO Secretary General Boy Scouts of the Philippines

FOREWORD

This handbook is your constant guide and companion. The rules on how to play the game of Scouting are found in this book. You will learn how your Troop and Patrols are organized. You will read about the heart of Scouting which is the most important and enjoyable part – the Advancement Program. To learn its content by heart, you must read this handbook very often. The activities are easy to follow. They will make you enjoy the Scouting trail to citizenship.

Welcome to Boy Scouting!

You are now joining more than three and a half million other boys and their leaders nationwide enjoying the game of Scouting. Lots of fun awaits you in the various activities of your Patrol and Troop. The skills that you will learn will help you to be of service to your fellowmen and your community. You will meet new friends and acquire wholesome experiences in camping, hiking, observation, swimming, first aid, pioneering, social activities, and social graces. In the advancement program, your ability, diligence, and sense of commitment will be tested. You will pass the requirements for the following ranks:

Your Troop Leader, Assistant Troop Leader, Merit Badge Counselor, as well as the Patrol Leader's Council will assist you in carrying out the requirements. They will help you meet them. You will have a lot of fun doing them. Good luck and Happy Boy Scouting!

What Boy Scouting Is

Boy Scouting is a program for boys, 10 to 17 years old, who join Scout Troops sponsored by the schools, civic, fraternal, neighborhood, and religious organizations. It is service- and outdoor-centered. This means that the knowledge and skills that you learn are offered in the service of others. Most of these activities are done in the out-of-doors. As a member of a Patrol, you will learn to work with others in a team. It will train you to be a leader. You and your fellow Scouts will plan and carry out your activities under the guidance and help of your Troop Leaders.

How To Become A Boy Scout

You can be a Boy Scout if you are ten (10) and not more than seventeen (17) years of age. All you have to do is go to a Scout Troop in your school, neighborhood, civic, fraternal, service, or religious organizations. Inform one of the Troop members that you desire to join Boy Scouting. He will be very happy to assist you. The leaders of the Troop will tell you about the entry requirements you have to undertake to become a member. These are not examinations. They are just ways of finding out how well you have prepared to join Scouting. One of the Patrol Leaders will be asked to help you meet these requirements. Inform the Troop Leader when you are ready. Upon completion of the requirements you will be asked to fill up the Application to Become a Boy Scout form. You have to pay a small membership fee which you are expected to earn yourself. Discuss with your parents or guardian how you can earn this fee. You will then be presented your membership certificate in a special investiture ceremony. You will commit yourself to the Scout Oath and Law in the presence of your Patrol, your Troop, and your parents. From then on the Scout Oath and Law shall be your constant guide in your everyday life.

CHARACTER BUILDING

The Scout Oath

ANG PANUNUMPA NG SCOUT Sa ngalan ng aking dangal, ay gagawin ko ang buong makakaya; Upang tumupad sa aking tungkulin, sa Diyos at sa aking Bayan, ang Republika ng Pilipinas at sumunod sa Batas ng Scout; Tumulong sa ibang tao sa lahat ng pagkakataon; Pamalagiing malakas ang aking katawan, gising ang isipan at marangal ang asal.

THE SCOUT OATH On my honor, I will do my best; To do my duty to God and my country, the Republic of the Philippines, and to obey the Scout Law, To help other people at all times, To keep myself physically strong, mentally awake and morally straight.

The moment you take this Oath for the first time, you start a new life. That is why you must know and understand it thoroughly. It will be difficult at first to live the Scouting way of life. There are many temptations and difficulties in life to overcome. But if you will always do your best to live by the Scout Oath, you will become a true Scout in the end.

The Scout Oath Explained

On My Honor Your honor is a very precious and sacred possession. It concerns your good name and how your fellowmen look upon you as a person. A person without a sense of honor cannot be respected. When, on your honor, you commit yourself to the Scout Oath and pledge to live by its ideals, you are making a promise that you should keep to the best of your ability.

I Will Do My Best In everything you do, you should always do your best. To do your best is your personal promise. Always try to live up to your promise and people will respect you for it.

The Scout Oath enumerates three outstanding duties of every Scout. They are: a) Duty to God and Country; b) Duty to Others; and c) Duty to Self. If only all people know these three outstanding duties and practice them, we would solve many national and international problems which now confront our elders. If we expect to enjoy the game of Scouting, everyone must do his part and do it well.

Duty to God We who belong to the Scouting Movement recognize God as the Great Master. No matter in what manner we worship Him, we are one in our faith and belief that He is our Supreme Master. In Scouting, you will enjoy the adventure of the out-of-doors, in thick forests, beside the streams and lakes, far away from the noise of the town and city. Every now and then, during these eventful outings, there will creep into your mind a certain feeling which will make you take off your hat if you have it on and bow your head in reverence; or lift it toward heaven, while resolving to do good in token of gratitude to Him who provides you everything you need on earth. In campfire programs and in meetings, you will note that the first words the Campfire Chief utters are dedicated to the Great Spirit who rules over us, over our Scouts, and over the entire universe.

Do your duty to God by following His teachings and His Commandments. You will find happiness in life by doing your duty to God faithfully.

Say Your Morning and Evening Prayers All Scouts believe in God as the Creator and from whom all good things come. He provides us with all we need. Hence, we should talk to Him whenever we can and thank Him for His goodness. Prayer is a means of talking to Him and listening to His message. A good Scout knows how to pray. As written in the Holy Koran, Verily, prayer is obligatory on the believers at fixed times. The Holy Bible says, Pray without ceasing. ...And Country Where is the citizen who does not hold his country in high respect and who will not sacrifice his very self for his country's sake? Where is the man who pretends to have red blood in his veins, but who will let pass a foreigner's insult to his native land without saying or doing anything in its defense? Scouting was born out of the experiences of great men and although in ages past there were no Scouts, we find the acts of our past heroes Scout-like. So we go to them for example and inspiration. A good citizen loves his country. He shows his love by obeying the laws of the land. Also by living up to its noble traditions, heritage, and culture and by helping in its development. Like our great national and local heroes who sacrificed their fortunes, their future and even their lives, you as a true Boy Scout should place your country's welfare even above yourself. Duty to Others One reason why Scouting has made so much progress everywhere is because it has received necessary support from the public. It has constantly received this support because Scouts have demonstrated that they deserve such support. This fact is proven in many instances every year when Scouts perform rescue work in various cases of disaster – fires, earthquakes, typhoons and floods. During emergencies everywhere, Boy Scouts are always among the first to volunteer for service and perform jobs which, ordinarily, belong to adults. Such is the spirit of service in the heart of a Scout that he responds to emergency service almost automatically, without any hesitation. In answering such calls for service, in doing our duty to others, we find a certain thrill in the adventure, something which makes our nerves tingle with excitement, something which sweetens the experience. You, too, will feel it when you rush side by side with your Patrol Leader to the scene of your first rescue work.

Duty to Self Has it ever occurred to you that every boy is born with a certain amount of talent, natural ability, and capability which, if properly cared for and developed, would make him a successful man? A boy is never a swimmer at birth. Just like any other boy, he has two good arms to use, two strong legs, and two eyes. As the years go by, the legs and the arms are developed and trained. Before long, he knows and master their use more than any other boy who has not made efforts to do the same. In Scouting, we consider it our duty to cultivate and develop the powers God has given us. Keeping Physically Strong By now, you have probably reached a grade or year in school wherein you are taught certain rules of health and hygiene, which if observed, will give you a healthy and happy life. They say sound minds and wills require strong bodies. If you desire to have a mind alert and ready for service to others, you must possess the necessary strength to back that resolve. Your Troop Leader is one of your health advisors. When you joined your Troop, your father or mother probably filled the questionnaire on a form in which your health history was recorded.

This was done to furnish your Troop Leader correct information as to your physical condition. This will serve as his guide for determining in what Troop and Patrol activities you may participate and what you are to avoid.

Scouting is a strenuous game to play. You will need in it as much courage as a baseball player when stealing a base, as much speed as he musters when running toward that base, and as much readiness and quickness in movement as the basketball player when he leaps for the ball at the sound of the tip-off signal. In Scouting, you pledge to do your duty to God, to country, to other people. Anybody can pledge his word to do these noble purpose, but we wonder how many can actually perform their duty when the occasion comes. It is not that when the call to action is sounded we fear their courage might fail them and they might hesitate to help. They might be possessed of the firmest will in the world, but what will count heavily in the end will be whether or not they have the necessary physical strength for the undertaking before them. Therefore, just as you are required to pledge yourself to do your duty to God, to your country and to help other people, you are also expected to do your duty to yourself. One point of that duty is to keep yourself physically strong. Mentally Awake Mental alertness is not a natural gift. It is the result of long training. It is not enough that a Scout's eyes and ears are always open. He must carry with him at all times a stock of knowledge on various skills so that he will be prepared to act at any time that his services are needed. You, as a Scout, therefore, should work hard to advance in rank so that you can acquire additional knowledge. You owe this duty to yourself. Morally Straight

And, finally, just as a Scout is the model of loyalty, reverence, and preparedness, so must he stand as a worthy example of moral goodness. An upright fellow is liked everywhere. A bully may go around and beat small and helpless fellows, but he will stand defeat from one who knows how to fight fairly and squarely. A Scout must be morally brave. In life, you will meet plenty of strange situations which will put your moral courage to a test. During your final examination in school, you might need the correct answer to just one question in order to pass the test. The teacher is not looking, and the paper of your seat mate looks very inviting. If you are morally straight, you will dismiss the urge to cheat and prefer failure to dishonor.

The Scout Law

ANG BATAS NG SCOUT THE SCOUT LAW Ang Scout ay: A Scout is: Mapagkakatiwalaan; Trustworthy; Matapat; Loyal; Matulungin; Helpful; Mapagkaibigan; Friendly; Magalang; Courteous;

Mabait; Kind; Masunurin; Obedient; Masaya; Cheerful; Matipid; Thrifty; Matapang; Brave; Malinis; Clean; Maka-Diyos. Reverent.

In trying to live the Scout Oath doing your best to do your duty to God and our country, to other people, and to yourself – you will need the Scout Law to guide you. That is why you are asked to subscribe to it as well as to the Oath. In learning the Scout Law, memorize the points and study the explanation for each point carefully so that you will be able to tell the meaning of each point in your own words.

The Scout Law Explained A Scout is TRUSTWORTHY. A Scout tells the truth. He keeps his promises. Honesty is a part of his code of conduct. People can always depend on him. A Scout is LOYAL. A Scout is true to his family, friends, Scout Leaders, school, nation, and the world community. A Scout is HELPFUL. A Scout is concerned about other people. He willingly volunteers to help others without expecting payment or reward.

A Scout is FRIENDLY. A Scout is a friend to all. He is a brother to other Scouts. He seeks to understand others. He respects those with ideas and customs that are different from his own. A Scout is COURTEOUS. A Scout is polite to everyone regardless of age or position. He knows that good manners make it easier for people to get along together. A Scout is KIND. A Scout understands there is strength in being gentle. He treats others as he wants to be treated. He does not harm or kill anything without reason. A Scout is OBEDIENT. A Scout follows the rules of his family, school and troop. He obeys the laws of his community and country. If he thinks these rules and laws are unfair, he tries to have them changed in an orderly manner rather than disobey them. A Scout is CHEERFUL. A Scout looks for the bright side of life. He cheerfully does tasks that come his way. He tries to make others happy. A Scout is THRIFTY. A Scout works to pay his way and to help others. He saves for the future. He protects and conserves natural resources. He carefully uses his time and property. A Scout is BRAVE. A Scout can face danger even if he is afraid. He has the courage to stand for what he thinks is right even if others laugh at him or threaten him. A Scout is CLEAN. A Scout keeps his body and mind fit and clean. He goes around with those who believe in living by these same ideals. He helps keep his home and community clean. A Scout is REVERENT. A Scout is reverent toward God. He is faithful in his religious duties. He respects the beliefs of others. ANG PAGPAPALIWANAG NG BATAS NG SCOUT: Ang Scout ay MAPAGKAKATIWALAAN. Ang Scout ay nagsasabi ng katotohanan. Tinutupad niya ang kanyang mga pangako. Ang Scout ay MATAPAT. Ang Scout ay tapat sa kanyang pamilya, mga kaibigan, mga Scout Lider, paaralan, bansa, at sa taong bayan. Ang Scout ay MATULUNGIN. Inaalala niya ang kanyang kapwa. Kusa siyang tumutulong at hindi naghihintay ng bayad o gantirnpala. Ang Scout ay MAPAGKAIBIGAN. Ang Scout ay kaibigan ng lahat. Kapatid siya ng lahat ng Scout. Inuunawa niya ang iba. Iginagalang niya ang mga kaisipan at mga kaugaliang naiiba sa kanya. Ang Scout ay MAGALANG. Ang Scout ay mapitagan sa lahat sino man siya. Alam niya na ang marunong makisama ay madaling pakibagayan. Ang Scout ay MABAIT. Alam ng Scout na mabisa ang pagkamahinahon. Ginagawa niya sa iba ang gusto niyang gawin nila sa kanya. Hindi siya nananakit o pumapatay ng walang dahilan. Ang Scout ay MASUNURIN. Sinusunod ng Scout ang mga tuntunin ng kanyang pamilya, paaralan, at pangkat. Tumatalima siya sa batas ng kanyang pamayanan at ng bansa. Kung taliwas ang tuntunin, sinisikap niya itong ayusin sa halip na labagin. Ang Scout ay MASAYA. Ang Scout ay nakatanaw sa masayang bahagi ng buhay. Malugod niyang ginagampanan ang mga gawain niya. Sinisikap niyang mapaligaya ang iba.

Ang Scout ay MATIPID. Siya ay nabubuhay sa sariling sikap at marunong tumulong sa iba. Nag- iimpok siya para sa kinabukasan. Pinangangalagaan at pinoprotektahan niya ang mga likas na kayamanan. Ang Scout ay MATAPANG. Ang panganib ay hinaharap niya kahit takot pa siya. Sa tama siya naninindigan kahit siya ay pagtawanan at pagbantaan. Ang Scout ay MALINIS. Ang Scout ay malinis sa kanyang katawan at isipan. Nakikisama siya sa taong ganito rin ang paniniwala. Pinanatili niyang malinis ang kanyang tahanan at kapaligiran. Ang Scout ay MAKA-DIYOS. Ang Scout ay Mapitagan sa Diyos. Matapat siya sa kanyang pananampalataya. Iginagalang niya ang pananampalataya ng iba.

The Scout Motto The Scout motto is “LAGING HANDA” – it means that the main purpose of the training of a Boy Scout is to be ready for service at all times. He willingly offers the knowledge and skills he learns in Scouting to his country and his fellowmen. In your Scout life, you will take certain test in order to qualify for certain ranks, and thus earn the distinction and privilege to wear the badges of those ranks you have earned. There is, of course, little need to remind you about it. We just want to make it a matter of record that an Eagle Scout is better PREPARED for service than a First Class Scout, and that a Tender foot is inferior to a Second Class Scout in preparedness. Therefore, look upon these test requirements as a scheme to make you better prepared and thus live true to your motto, rather than mere stepping stones to beautiful embroidered badges. Every hour of the twenty-four in a day is full of service opportunities. Accidents might happen when you least expect them. Be sure they find you prepared when they do occur! What is more important, prepare yourself to be of utmost service to our Motherland.

The Scout Slogan Besides the motto, The Scout has also a rallying cry or slogan. It is “Do a good turn daily.” The Scout Slogan is a repetition and a reminder of the second part of the Scout Oath and the third point of the Scout Law. It places before the Scout the ideal of Service, to which he and his brothers in the Movement are committed. A Good Turn is not just something you do for the sake of being courteous. When you offer your seat to a lady, you are merely showing good manners. But when you go out of your way in order to help an old man cross a busy street, you are doing a Good Turn. Good Turns involve both big things and little things. Service during fires, typhoons, floods, and other cases of emergency are Good Turns just as much picking up a banana peeling from the street or a broken bottle from the playground. A real Scout does his Good Turn cheerfully and quietly. He does not brag about it.

The Scout Sign, Salute, and Handshake

The Scout Sign How It Is Given. To give the Scout Sign, raise your right hand, palm forward with the three middle fingers upward and the thumb covering the nail of the little finger. The upper arm is raised sideward to shoulder height and the forearm straight up at right angle with the upper arm. This throws the right hand slightly above the eyes, but in an easy position to snap into salute.

Its Meaning. The three fingers pointing upward indicate the three points of the Scout Oath, the same as the meaning of the three points of the Scout Badge. They also show that the Scout climbs upwards to bigger and finer things. The two other fingers stand for the bond of brotherhood and friendship that ties all Scouts together. Its Uses. The Scout Sign is used when giving the Scout Oath and Law. It is also used as a recognition sign among Scouts and Scouters all over the world.

A stranger was lost in a town on a stormy night and knocked at a door to request shelter. Somebody opened the door. The stranger made the Scout Sign and lo! the host returned it with a smile! He was the Scout leader of the town! The stranger got friendly shelter for the night.

The Scout Salute How It Is Given. To give the Scout Salute, place the fingers of your right hand at Scout sign position. Bring the hand up smartly, palm very slightly sideways, with the forefinger touching right eye or, if you are bareheaded, the edge of your right eyebrow. Its Meaning. Wherever and whenever the Salute is used, it means Respect and Courtesy. Its Uses. The Scout Salute is used to salute the Flag of the Philippines and when greeting, meeting, or leaving Scout officials. 1) Whenever you meet, address, greet, or leave any Scout official, salute him whether he is in uniform or not. 2) Whenever a Scout official enters or leaves a meeting, AND IS RECOGNIZED by the one in charge of the meeting, RISE and salute him whether he is in uniform or not. Correct observation of the regulations governing the use of the Scout Salute will help you live true to the fifth point of the Scout Law – A Scout is Courteous.

The Scout Handshake Scout leaders all over the world have agreed on the use of the left handshake. It is a warm grip like and sincere handshake. The only difference is that the left hand is extended when a Scout is shaking hands.

Scouts all over the world shake hands with their left hand to show that they are members of the brotherhood of Scouts. It also denotes trust for one another. In Africa, warriors once fought with spears and they used their left hand for holding a shield to protect them. If they met a friend, they didn’t need protection so they extended their left hand to show trust and to offer friendship.

Lord Baden Powell met an African chief who held out his left hand in greeting, showing that he wanted to be friendly. This must have impressed B.P. that he introduced this as a special greeting for Scouts.

The Scout Badge

What Does the Scout Badge Mean? The Scout Badge is composed of the trefoil (used as the badge of rank of Tenderfoot Scouts) and the scroll with a simple over hand knot attached to it (used as the badge of rank of Second Class Scouts). The Scout Badge itself is used as the badge of rank of First Class Scouts. The trefoil, which is the main part of the Scout Badge, is the three pointed portion. Each point represents one of the three points of the Scout Oath: 1) Duty to God and Country, 2) Duty to Others, and 3) Duty to Self. The single band joining the three points of the trefoil symbolizes Unity and Universal Brotherhood.

The three stars symbolize the ideals of Faith, Truth, and Knowledge, the foundations of Scout citizenship. They represent the three geographical divisions of our country: Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao. They also signify the stars under which we sleep or hike during camping. The scroll with the Scout motto is turned up at its end like the mouth of a smiling Scout, a symbolic reminder to us of the eight point of our Law. A Scout is Cheerful. It tells us to be generous with our smile whenever we wear the Badge. The eight rays of the sun represent the first eight provinces that fought for freedom against bondage. This should ever remind us that service as Scouts includes service to our country. The rope with a simple overhand knot attached to the bottom of the scroll is a reminder that a Scout does a Good Turn to someone every day, the slogan being – Do a good turn daily. Recognition – The Scout Badge, when worn by a boy, proclaims him to the outside world as a Boy Scout. He is a member of a universal brotherhood with more than 16 million members at present. (Of course, it is not this Badge alone which may distinguish a Scout from an ordinary boy; his actions too and manner of conduct reveal to the keen observer the real identity of a boy who is a Scout.) The Scout Badge stands for all the ideals of our great Movement – our lofty code of honor, self- sacrifice and service to others. It is the mark of a Scout a youth of good character, trained in citizenship. Wear it with pride and honor – but make sure you are worthy of the badge. Authorization and Protection – Other official badges are adopted and issued by the National Council, under the authority and with the protection of our government which chartered the Boy Scouts of the Philippines through Commonwealth Act No. 111, as amended by Republic Act No. 7278.

Only registered members of the Boy Scouts of the Philippines are entitled to wear our Badges. Those who do so without being registered with us are open to legal prosecution. History of the Badge If you are familiar with the mariners' compass, you will probably notice that our Badge resembles the sign of the north in a compass. It is also similar to the French ﬂeur-de-lis (lily flower or iris flower). But we might say that our Badge owes its origin to the compass. For countless centuries, the compass has been an indispensable companion of the traveler, the navigator, the explorer. The Chinese claim its use as early as 2634 B.C., although it was first used by them at sea only in 300 A.D. Marco Polo, the celebrated Venetian, enjoys the distinction of introducing the compass to Europe on his return from Cathay at the close of the thirteenth century. From generation to generation, the compass was handed down through all classes of pioneers, travelers, woodsmen, and explorers. The North, to them, was the true guide when traveling. The point of the North thus became a significant emblem. The Scout Badge, therefore, patterned after the point of the North, should mean much to all Scouts.

THE BOY SCOUT UNIFORM The Boy Scout Uniform, which you are going to wear upon registration and investiture as Scout is specifically authorized by Commonwealth Act No. 111, approved by the National Assembly of the Philippines on October 31. 1936, as amended by Republic Act No. 7278 and is protected by the provisions of Section 7 of the same Act. What Does The Uniform Mean First of all, the Uniform makes you feel that you are a member of our Movement and that you belong to a world-wide brotherhood of boys numbering millions. Everywhere you go, if you wear the Scout Uniform, you will find Scout friends. It will make you feel comfortable and at ease. Secondly, whenever and wherever you wear the Uniform, it proclaims you as a boy of character. Our Scout Oath, our Law, our Daily Good Turn habit, and all the ideals of our Movement, are symbolized by the Uniform. If you are to wear it, therefore, be sure to wear it with honor. Thirdly, the Scout Uniform stands for preparedness. When an accident occurs in a street where a Boy Scout walks in Uniform, the public expects him to render assistance. If there is profuse bleeding, the Scout is expected to stop it. Unless of course a physician happens to be present. If and when a physician does come the Boy Scout is expected to render other services, like controlling crowds, transmitting messages to the hospital, or helping to transport the victim. Why is it that Boy Scouts are expected to do these things? Because service is synonymous with Scouting, “Laging Handa” is the Scout Motto. Any boy who wears the Scout Uniform should endeavor to make himself always prepared and ready for service. Fourthly, the Uniform is a symbol of democracy. In Scouting, boys stand shoulder to shoulder, regardless of social standing. The son of a governor or that of a wealthy man becomes the equal of a clerk's or janitor's son in Scouting. Both are pledge to give the same service; both are sworn to the same Oath and Law; both wear the same Uniform. Poverty or social position is no hindrance to the acquisition of advancement badges and insignias of honor.

And lastly, the Uniform stands for outdoor life. The color and design of the shirt, the pants, the neckerchief, the stockings, the shoes, and the hat, are suggestive of the out-of- doors. It blends beautifully with the color of the forest. Comfortable short pants, the V-necked and short-sleeved shirt, afford freedom of movement and ease of motion. It is just the type of uniform an outdoorsman will want to wear. Furthermore, the many features of openness in the Uniform point to Scouts' honesty and trustworthiness. The open neck, the shorts and the short sleeved shirt personify the spirit of a true Scout always open and on the level, ever honest and ever deserving of trust. Wearing the Uniform Remember just as there is only one kind of Scout Uniform, there is also only one way of wearing it – the CORRECT WAY! Study the illustration on the following pages and use it as your model. Wear the Scout Uniform with such badges and insignia as are especially designated: 1) In all activities of your Patrol and Troop meetings, hikes, camps, rallies, scoutcraft, demonstrations, etc. 2) At special church services for Scouts. 3) When appearing for advancement before a board of review or a court of honor. 4) At appropriate times during Scouting Month (October). 5) When prescribed for special Scouting service or service activities.

BOY SCOUTS UNIFORM TYPE A

BOY SCOUTS UNIFORM TYPE B

Do Not Wear the Scout Uniform 1) When soliciting funds or engaged in any selling campaign, or in any commercial operation. (This does not however, forbid Scouts in uniform from selling tickets for Scouts benefit shows, rallies, and similar Scouting events.) 2) When engaged in any political endeavor. 3) When appearing on the stage or in motion pictures professionally without specific authority from the National Executive Board. 4) When taking part in parades, except for the purpose of rendering service as a Scout or when representing officially the Boy Scouts of the Philippines. 5) When you cease to be a Scout through failure to register, or leave the Scouting Movement for any other reason.

Uniform Code Cleanliness presupposes neatness. The following suggestions might prove helpful in the proper care of your uniform: l. Always be careful of your clothing at all times – be it your Uniform or your civilian clothes. Do not leave your shirt and trousers lying around carelessly. They should either be folded and kept properly or hung on hangers after use. 2. Make it a point to attend without delay to every item in your Uniform which needs repair Holes should be sewn tightly and neatly. Missing buttons must be replaced. Spots should be removed carefully. The use of turpentine in the case of clothing with paint is helpful. To remove grease spots, place a piece of brown paper, newspaper, or other absorbent paper over the stain and press with a hot iron. After scrubbing clothes be sure to rinse them well with clean water so as to wash out all soap suds. 3. Take good care of your shoes and leather straps. They should be brushed and polished. Leather should never be dipped into water. They require oil in order to preserve their pliability. Without the application of oil, leather will become brittle and will crack and break easily under strain. The Neckerchief Scouts of different lands wear clothes made of different materials and designs. But there is one feature of the Scout Uniform which is universal in use. This item is the neckerchief which is the distinguishing feature of Scout Uniform all over the world. You may encounter boys Wearing khaki shirts and pants, but you cannot readily set them apart as Boy Scouts unless they wear a neckerchief. Any boy who wears a neckerchief is presumed to be a Boy Scout. Its uses The neckerchief is a handy item. In fact, it serves many practical purposes. It can be used as a tourniquet and as a bandage. In the absence of a hat, it serves to protect the head from the heat of the sun. During cold evenings, Scouts sit around the campfire with neckerchief slides pulled close to the neck. During emergencies in the forest, and when you are in need of signal flags, neckerchiefs admirably come to the rescue. In the absence of ropes, neckerchiefs may also be joined together to be used as one.

How to Wear the Neckerchief First, roll the long edge over upon itself evenly in several flat folds down to about six (6) inches from the corner of the neckerchief. Then place it high around your neck and draw the neckerchief slide up over the ends and adjust to fit snugly. Fix the two ends of your neckerchief below the slide in even rolls.

The Badges and Insignia We said that the Scout Uniform is a symbol of democracy and that it places every boy in the Troop on level with the others. Even among Scouts and leaders, however, a certain degree of respect and regard for each other should be properly observed. Hence, the use of badges and insignia.

Through the use of badges and insignia, Scouts of various ranks and positions are distinguished from one another. During a Troop meeting, a Scouter in uniform enters the room. You know him to be a Scouter because he is wearing the Uniform. But how can you tell his rank or office? Through badges and insignias he wears, of course. Then, also, through the use of badges and insignia, we are able to give recognition to Scouts who qualify for the various advancement ranks. That is why we have a Tender foot Badge, a Second Class Scout Badge, a First Class Badge, and others.

These badges and insignias, like the Uniform itself, are not absolutely necessary. But they are desirable because they give you a form of recognition for the efforts you have exerted. Whenever badges and insignias are used they should be used or worn correctly.

THE WORLD SCOUT BADGE The basic design of the World Scout Badge is used by Scouts in all of the 150 Scouting countries and territories throughout the free world. It is one of the more widely recognized symbols about the globe because it has been worn by 250 million former Scouts and is used by 16 million Scouts at present.

The Badge uses the arrowhead surrounded by a rope in a circle, with the ends joined by a reef knot to symbolize unity and brotherhood throughout the Scout Movement. The arrowhead and rope are white (symbolizing purity) on a background of purple denoting leadership and helping other people. The three tips of the emblem represent the main points of the Scout Promise while the two five pointed stars, the original ten points of the Scout Law. So the emblem helps remind a Scout that he/she is to be true and reliable as a compass in keeping the Scouting ideals and in showing the way to others.

DIALOGUE WITH YOUR TROOP LEADER One of the aims of Scouting is to help you grow. You can see yourself getting taller and heavier without much trouble. But you are also growing in other ways. These are the things that make up your personality and character and will help determine the kind of a man you will be.

Your Troop Leader is interested in and wants to know about you. Only then can he help you to have fun in Scouting. Only then can he know that you can help your Troop and Patrol. Every Troop is different from any other troop. Why? Because each Troop is made up of lots of different fellows. A Troop isn't a mass of nameless, faceless people all forced into a common pattern. Each Scout gives a little of himself. Thus, each Troop takes on some of the character of all the guys in it. That’s why your Troop Leader wants to know you better.

He wants to see what you have to bring to the Troop. Soon after joining, you will have your first personal growth dialogue with him. Here, you and your Troop Leader will sit down for a talk. Tell him about yourself first, about your family. Tell him about your father and mother and what they do. Describe your brothers and sisters and tell about the things you like to do with them. If you have a pet, tell about it, too. Your Troop Leader will probably ask about the things you like to do Sports? Which ones? Music? Do you play a musical instrument? Do you like to read? Are you a member of any organization or club in your school? What things do you do there that you like? Was it earning activity badges during Troop Activities? How about in school? What activities do you like to do best? Your Troop Leader will also want to know what things you do well. You may be good in drawing, singing or playing the guitar. Think of all the things you do, and discuss them with your Troop Leader. These are things that you might clarify with your Troop Leader. Sexual Maturity Soon your childhood days will be over and you become a teenager. You begin growing up. This is caused by certain glands in your body which hasten your height and muscular development. Changes occur in your voice, your shoulder becomes broad, you start growing beard and changes take place in your sex organs. This is but natural and it happens to all boys. Some experience it earlier and others, later. The time these changes occur differs from one boy to another. Don't worry if it happens to you sooner or later than it does to your friends.

If you have questions on sexual matters like the so called wet dreams or nocturnal emissions, masturbation and other strange feelings you have, talk them over with your parents and/or spiritual advisor or doctor. Never rely on the advice of friends who pretend to know all the answers, but may not really know more than you do. You are smarter if you get the facts from your elders rather than from your friends. Harmful Habits Be proud of keeping your body fit and strong. You should know that good food and proper health habits will help keep you fit and alive. There are things that you can do to keep fit. There are also many other things that make you weak. Tobacco, alcohol, drugs, and drug-type things are known to be harmful. None of them are good for your body. Smoking – Smoking will shorten your life. There's not one single good reason to start smoking. Even if your friends smoke, don't. They may try to get you to start. They think they'll look a little smarter if they can get a lot of others to start it. You say, “But lots of grown-ups smoke. Why do they do it?” Most of them started before they really knew the dangers. They have become dependent on the habit and keep on smoking even though they know it's bad for them.

It's important that you don't start. Smoking is a tough habit to kick. If you don't start, you won't have to fight to quit later. Most cigarette smokers would stop today if they could break the habit easily. Alcohol – Alcohol makes it harder for a person to think straight and act quickly in an emergency. Many auto accidents are caused by drivers who couldn't use good judgment or react to an emergency because they had been drinking. A person who has been drinking can't decide the right thing to do and so he becomes a danger to himself and to others. Drinking can become a serious habit. A person who drinks alcohol in large quantities does great damage not only to himself but also to others.

Teenagers sometimes think that if they take a drink they'll look grown-up. Somehow, it just doesn't work that way. Drinking is another habit you won't have to fight if you don't start. Drug Abuse – Why do kids try drugs? Usually just for kicks, to try to get a little excitement, or maybe out of curiosity. Some try them to go along with the crowd they are in. Usually, those who try drugs are searching for those things they can't find in their regular lives. Those who really know and will level with you say it's better to get those feelings from something real than to try the dangerous way from drugs. Some kids foolishly use drugs to try to get out of the dumps. Every person suffers pain. You have. Everybody feels lonely and discouraged sometimes. You have. We all have. Most of us stand up to these things. Most overcome them. Some foolishly run away or cop out. A few turn to drugs and usually get into deeper and more serious problems than they originally had. People who face their problems squarely have something going for them. They often have good friends they can count on. They may have religious beliefs to give them strength. They might have a moral code such as the Scout Oath and Law to guide them. They usually have families to help. Give your parents or guardians a chance. They love you even though you may feel they don't show it. Try talking with your parents or guardians. Then, when you feel really low, it will be easier to talk things over with them. Taking drugs doesn't change your problems one bit. When the drug wears off you are face to face with them again. Sometimes much worse. On the other hand, the satisfactions and relief you get from friends and family, from accomplishment, and from standing up to your problems and solving them are real and lasting.

DRUGS Drugs have great value in the care and treatment of illness. Doctors prescribe drugs to ease pain, to relax the muscles, to quiet nerves, and to cause physical changes in the body. But some drugs are also abused. They are used without being prescribed by a doctor. They are used for kicks. It is this abuse of drugs that is a serious problem today. Drugs are tricky. Nobody can predict how they will hit you. The effect varies from person-to-person and from time to time in the same person. This makes abusing drugs extremely risky. Even for those who may just be experimenting, there is the possibility of becoming dependent upon or addicted to drugs. There is no way to tell how far you may go if you experiment with drugs. Let's look at drugs and drug substances so you can understand what they do to the mind and body.

Marijuana This comes from the Indian hemp plant. It is often smoked as a cigarette or in a pipe. It can be put in food or drink. Users often find they feel uneasy or uncomfortable without it. Marijuana affects the user's self-control. Heavy use by some has produced boredom, disinterest in things and friends, and dropping from normal activities.

Hallucinogens These change how you taste, smell, see, hear, feel, and think. The sensations they create are often called trips. They are like dreams you can't wake up from. These dreams may be like nightmares. You can't tell how a person will react to a dose of hallucinogen, DMT, STP, and MDA. There are many others. Some doctors class THC, a strong ingredient in marijuana, as a hallucinogen. LSD is one of these drugs. While using it, a person may lose control of himself. He doesn't know what is real. He may get real scared or think he can do strange things like flying. Flash-back is always possible. This means a person may have reactions days or months after the last dose. Stimulants Any drug that excites or overworks the brain is a stimulant. It can cause convulsions when taken in overdose. Some dangerous stimulants are known as pep pills. Abuse of stimulants may cause liver and brain damage. They make your blood pressure much higher. They cause loss of appetite. Users of stimulants often suffer from loss of weight and have malnutrition. They lose their sense of values and personal identity. They may get emotionally disturbed and act strangely. Sedatives and Tranquilizers Sedatives are drugs which when properly prescribed may help bring about sleep. One group of sedatives is called barbiturates, and also known as goof balls or sleepers. An overdose of sedatives can kill. There are many accidental deaths caused by the abuse of sedatives. Tranquilizers calm and relax people. But they have to be properly prescribed by doctors for certain problems. Some of these pills may produce dependency on drugs. They never should be used without the advice and prescription of a doctor. Narcotics These drugs have the ability to relieve pain and bring sleep. They include opium and its active ingredient, morphine. They also include heroin, which is a form of morphine. The dangers of narcotics use are varied and countless. An overdose can kill. The addict can never be sure how strong the narcotics he buy is. Many diseases are caused by using dirty needles for shots. A person on narcotics can't fight diseases such as tuberculosis and pneumonia. Dependence on narcotics become greater with each day of use. He must have more and more to satisfy his problems. An addict who can no longer get narcotics really suffers. He shakes, sweats, and throws up. His eyes water. He has running nose. His muscles ache and jerk. He suffers from a bad bellyache and diarrhea. He may have hallucinations and delusions. Other Addictive Substances Many other chemicals and drugs affect one's mind and body. They are not meant to be used by the human body. They have very bad effects when used that way. Blindness, damage to lungs and kidneys, and even death have been reported from misuse. Most of the common ones are for sniffing shabu, rugby, acetone, etc.

Drugs – Reaching an Understanding • Learn about drugs and how they act on your body and mind from real sources, not from rumors or false ideas of uninformed friends. • Try to find real solutions to problems instead of a poor substitute like drugs. • Find real friends and stand by them. • Develop warm and open relations with your parents or guardians and other members of your family. • Speak out against drug abuse, and practice what you preach.

No one has ever said that using drugs is good for your body. Everything points the other way – drugs destroy fitness. If you want a ﬁt mind and a fit body, stay away from drugs, smoking and alcohol. Fitness is a lot more than having a strong body. Fitness calls for an alert mind a mind that will make the right decisions. And most important to fitness is a set of moral standards. These will let you live at peace with yourself.

CHILD ABUSE Youth Protection Strategies: There are three underlying principles to effective youth protection strategies: • Recognize the situations that may result in abuse. • Assert the right to resist the abuser. • Tell an adult when he or she has encountered abuse and to feel confident that the adult will take actions to prevent further abuse. Be Assertive! It is important that you understand the right to react assertively when faced with a situation you see as dangerous. When teaching yourself about self-protection skills, make it clear that although some of the basic strategies involved seem to contradict the sort of behavior you normally expect, these strategies apply to a situation that is not normal. When feeling threatened, you must feel free to exercise the right to: • Trust your instincts or feelings. • Expect privacy. • Say no to unwanted touching or affection. • Say no to an adult's inappropriate demands and requests. • Withhold information that could jeopardize your safety. • Refuse gifts. • Be rude or unhelpful, if the situation warrants.

• Run, scream, and make a scene. • Physically fight off unwanted advances or yell. • Ask for help. It's important to remember there are protective strategies designed to give you the power to protect yourselves. The following exercises will help to clarify when it is appropriate to apply these strategies. Situations and Suggested Actions for Each 1. What if you are home alone and the telephone rings; a voice on the other end asks if your parents are home. What do you do? a. Tell the caller your parents are busy and cannot come to the phone. b. Take a message and the phone number of the caller. c. If the message needs an immediate response, call your parent. d. Do not tell the caller you are home alone. 2. What if an older child hangs around your school and tries to give pills to younger students. What do you do? a. Tell your teacher. b. Tell your parent even if you have already informed the teacher. c. Stay away from the person with the pills. 3. What if you are home alone (or with your brother or sister) and someone knocks on the door and asks to read the electric meter. This person is not wearing a uniform. What do you do? (Alternate situation: If the person were wearing a uniform, would the responses be different? Probably not.) a. Keep the front door or screen door locked. b. Do not open the door to anyone without permission from a parent. c. Tell the person to come back later when your parent can come to the door. Do not let the person know your parent is away. d Use the telephone to call a neighbor and ask for assistance. 4. What if someone comes to you and says that your parent is sick and you must go with him or her. What would you do? a. If at school, go to the principal or your teacher for assistance and verification. b. If at home or somewhere else, call the emergency telephone number (166 in the Metro Manila area), parent's employer, neighbor, close relative for assistance and verification. c. Do not go anywhere without verification from someone in authority whom you have been told to trust.

5. What if you are in a public restroom and someone tries to touch you. What do you do? a. Yell STOP THAT as loudly as you can. b. Run out of the room as quickly as possible. c. Tell your parent, a police officer, security guard, or other adult (such as your teacher) what happened. 6. What if you are walking to school in the rain. A car stops and the driver asks if you want a ride. What do you do? a. Stay away from the car. You do not need to go close to the car to answer. b. Unless you have your parent's permission to ride with the person, say No, thank you. If the driver persists, say No! c. Tell your teacher when you get to school and tell your parent when you reach home. 7. What if you are playing on the playground and an adult comes up to you and asks you to help find his or her lost puppy. What do you do? a. If you do not know the person, stay away and go directly home. b. Even if you know the person, do not help. Adults should ask other adults for help. Before you assist, you must get your parent's permission. c. Tell your parent what happened. 8. What if you are walking down the street and someone comes up to you and wants to take your picture. The person asks you to come to his or her house. What do you do? a. Stay away from the person and say in a loud voice, “No, I don't want my picture taken!” b. Do not ever go into anyone else's house without your parent's permission. c. Tell your parent about the person. 9. What if an older child you know invites you to play a game, and to pretend that he or she is the doctor and you are the patient. This child tells you to take off your clothes so that the doctor can examine the patient. What do you do? a. Keep your clothes on. b. If he or she persists, yell and get away. c. Tell your parent. CONSERVE YOUR POWER At the age between thirteen and fifteen (sometimes even earlier, sometimes, later) you not only grow, but numerous changes also take place in your body. Your shoulders broaden. Your voice changes, hairs appear on your face, in the armpits, around the sex organ which also increases in size. All these functional changes are caused by the sex glands or testicles. They produce fluids or secretions that have a great effect on your whole development. Through your blood they build up your muscles, your nerves, and your brain.

They make a MAN of you. At times the glands discharge part of their secretions through the sex organ, usually during sleep. When that happens, some nerves are irritated and send a message to the brain that may cause a dream. This whole process is called an emission or a wet dream. Emissions may appear several times a month, or there may be months, or even a year, between them. They are perfectly natural and healthy and are a sign that nature has been permitted to take care of the situation in its own normal way. There are boys who do not permit nature to have its own way but resort to committing unnatural emissions, called masturbation. It may not lead to physical injury unless it becomes a serious habit, but it does something to a boy's outlook on life. It makes him feel cheap and may cause him to worry. Instead of worrying, he should do his best to keep himself from repeating this unhealthy action. If you feel like doing it, dip your feet in cold water while seated. It will help you overcome the temptation. Any real boy knows that a habit that lessens his self-esteem should be mastered and discarded. To any real boy such a habit is TABOO! The temptation may be strong, but it is worth fighting against to keep your manly self-respect. Your aids in winning out are perfect cleanliness of your organs, taking active part in vigorous games and hikes, interest in worthwhile hobbies, and last, but not least, your own high ideals and hopes for your great future as a man.

PROPER NOURISHMENT Eat a balanced diet. Always have the following in your meals: 1. Meat, Poultry or Fish – one or two servings daily. 2. Eggs at least 3 or 4 a week, boiled or any way you want them done. 3. Vegetables Green, leafy or yellow, one serving a day, some raw and some cooked. 4. Milk at least one pint a day (more for children) or cheese or evaporated or dried milk. 5. Fruits – dalanghita, oranges, tomatoes, grapefruit, guava – one of these at least once a day. 6. Potatoes, Apples, Bananas or other vegetables or fruits daily. 7. Bread or Cereal rice, enriched bread, whole grain products. These are the Go, Grow and Glow foods. Drink Water Take five to six glasses of water daily. This is necessary for the proper digestion of food and removing waste. It also regulates the heat of the body.

Getting Rid of Waste Some wastes are removed through the bowels. Others in the urine. So it is best for you to have a regular time for bowel elimination once or twice a day. This may be in the morning before or after breakfast or before sleeping in the evening. When you feel the urge, go right away. Do not postpone it. Otherwise, you may feel tired, restless or have a headache. This may lead to constipation. To remedy this, have enough fresh and raw vegetables, fruits, coarse cereal or bread and water. Have enough exercise, too. Plenty of Exercise You get plenty of exercise when you join your Patrol or Troop in hiking, games and contests, swimming, rowing, signaling and other activities. You may play athletic games like basketball, volleyball, sipa or sepak takraw, baseball, football, handball, swimming, tennis, and others. At home, have calisthenics upon waking up or before retiring daily. Stand Tall While standing, walking and sitting, make yourself tall as you really are. Shoulder blades should be flat, shoulders held in an easy natural position, chest up which automatically pulls in the stomach. Your Feet Wear proper shoes. It should be straight on the inside for the big toes to point straight ahead. It should be wide enough to give all the toes room to move. The soles should not be flexible and the heels low and broad. As regards stockings or socks, if the foot part is too long, it may wrinkle and cause irritation. If too short, it will prevent the free movement of the toes. Wear clean socks all the time. The correct way of walking is to bring the foot down almost flat. The toes should point straight ahead or even in slightly. Toeing in and walking on the outer borders of the feet strengthen the arch of the foot. Keep the feet clean at all times. Cut nails straight across to prevent ingrown toe nails. If you are troubled with sweaty feet, wash frequently and dry them thoroughly. Care for athlete's foot with mild tincture of iodine (2%). When it has dried, put talcum powder. Sun and Fresh Air The morning sun before 10:00 a.m. is good for our health. You should have a daily exposure to the sun. But do not over expose yourself especially during summertime. The Art of Breathing You should inhale through the nose. Keep the mouth shut and clear the passage through your nose. Exhale through the mouth. Try the inhaling and exhaling or deep breathing exercise for six counts daily. This is better done outdoors or by the window.

Thorough Cleanliness Bathe regularly every day. Otherwise, wash off your whole body with a wet cloth or towel and follow this by a brisk rubdown, until your skin tingles. Sufficient Rest and Sleep The amount of sleep you should have will depend on your age: Age | A good amount 10 | 1l.5 hours 11 | l1 hours 12 | 10.5 hours 13 | 10 hours Sleep in a bed that's not too soft. Your covering should be light and just warm enough. Sleep in fresh air. Sleep with open windows but out of direct draft.

WHAT TO DO DURING PERSONAL MISFORTUNE As a Scout, you should be brave enough when misfortune happens to you. It may occur or come anytime. You should be able to face it with courage. Your determination to continue the good life you have started should not be overcome by your feeling. Remember, God will always be beside you. You and you alone, with your fighting spirit can give more meaning to your God-given life. If you think you really cannot bear it, have a dialogue with your Troop Leader. Your Assistant Troop Leader can also help and give you some advice. Other elders can also be of help you in some other ways. In God's hands offer everything and He will show you the way.

SOCIAL ACTIVITIES AND GRACES In Public Transport There is no other place in which the spirit of chivalry seems so lacking as in our Light Railway Transportation (LRT), taxi, and jeepneys. Nor is there any other public place in which kindness and cheerful cooperation are so wholly acceptable. 1) Stand aside, then and let those older ones precede you. 2) If a girl is accompanied by a boy in taking a ride, she enters the vehicle first. The boy assists her at the step and if she is his guest, pays her fare. On getting off, he should alight first in order to assist her. When escorting girls have your fare ready. 3) Move over to the front of the jeep or public vehicle without being urged to do so by the conductor to give way to the late riders. This is especially true in jeepneys for ten or more passengers. 4) Always rise to give your seat to a much older person or to a cripple or to a mother carrying a child. This rule applies to girls, as well as boys. Boys should also rise for women, whether young or old.

5) LRT or bus aisles are often so congested that it is very difficult to make one's way to the exit. Try to make it easier for the person struggling toward the door by not blocking it. You will expect the same consideration from others when your turn comes. 6) The keyword to good manners in public is unobtrusiveness. Loud talking and laughing will make you sharply conspicuous. Moderate your voice to suit the conditions of the place in which you find yourself. 7) In boarding and alighting from a vehicle, there are places where passengers line up. You should follow the queue and avoid elbowing your way once the vehicle arrives. Observe the same behavior in alighting. Always wait for your turn. In Social Gatherings In social gatherings, convocations, sacred places, be punctual. Avoid coming late. If, however, you arrive late and there is a program going on, wait for the number or the speaker to finish before entering quietly. Avoid conversing aloud while the program is going on. During religious services, observe silence unless the audience is asked to respond. Applaud properly after each speech, talk, or entertainment number in a social gathering or convocation. Shouting, banging one's seat or yelling is improper. When entering the dance hall with a partner, girls should enter ahead or be on the right side of the boy. In certain places in the country, however, customs and traditions dictate that the opposite be observed.

You should be the first one to dance with your partner. You should not leave your partner to dance with someone else unless your partner has been invited to dance by another boy. If you don't have any partner and you wish to dance with a girl, sit beside her and start a conversation with her. Then when the music starts say “Miss, may I have the pleasure of dancing with you?” or simply, “May I dance with you?” After the dance, escort the girl to her seat and thank her. If the girl has a chaperon, ask the permission of the latter before inviting the girl to dance with you. At birthday parties or fiestas where the buffet style is adopted, follow the queue. Go to the plate and the utensils section first. Avoid filling up your plate to the brim. Table Manners 1) Never sit at the head of the table unless you are the main sponsor. 2) Chew your food with your mouth closed. 3) Scoop the soup with your spoon going outward. Then sip it from the side slowly. 4) If the dish for rice or viand is far from you, ask the one near it to please pass it on to you. Then, thank him or her. 5) Wait for the one at the head of the table to stand before you stand even if you are through eating.

SETTING A GOAL You have already thought about the things you do well. These are your strong points – your strengths. These are the things to build on as you grow. Your Troop Leader will ask you to set a goal for yourself in which you will use one of your strengths. This goal will be something you decide on yourself. Because, you see, it will be up to you to meet that goal. You will do it to become a Scout.

How do you decide what your goal will be? Let’s pretend a little. Suppose you are good at sports – baseball, for example. Your goal might be to organize some ball games for the Troop. You might even plan to be the umpire since you know all the rules. Maybe you like to do handicraft like woodworking. Your goal could be to build an investiture set for inducting new boys into the Troop or repairing chairs or benches for a neighborhood day-care center. If music is your strength, you might set a goal of entertaining the Troop with your guitar at several Troop campfires. Maybe you play the trumpet. How about becoming the Troop bugler. These are just a few examples. Get the idea? You use the things you do best to help your Troop and others. And you don't just let it happen. You decide what you are going to do ahead of time, set it as a goal, and then do it. There will be many chances for you to meet with your Troop Leader to see how you are doing and to set new goals. Part of each progression in rank is a personal growth dialogue. Each will be somewhat similar to the one described here. Of course, as you become older and have more experience, you will want to set bigger goals. But each time the goal will be your own. At each dialogue, your Troop Leader will also talk over with you your progress in Scouting. He will help you to look ahead a: earning your next advancement rank. He might help you to decide what advancement rank and merit badges you will want to earn next. CITIZENSHIP TRAINING PAMBANSANG AWlT “Lupang Hinirang” is the national anthem of our country. Every Filipino must sing it with pride and reverence. It is played or sung during flag ceremonies. Whether here or abroad, it should always be sang in Filipino. As a Scout, you must know how to sing the Pambansang Awit by heart and learn the meaning of every word.

LUPANG HINIRANG Bayang magiliw Perlas ng Silanganan Alab ng Puso Sa dibdib mo'y buhay. Lupang hinirang Duyan ka ng magiting Sa manlulupig Di ka pasisiil. Sa dagat at bundok Sa simoy at sa langit mong bughaw May dilag ang tula At awit sa paglayang minamahal. Ang kislap ng watawat mo'y Tagumpay na nagniningning Ang bituin niya at araw niya'y Kailan pa ma'y di magdidilim. Lupa ng araw, ng luwalhati't pagsinta Buhay ay langit sa piling mo Aming ligaya na pag may mang-aapi Ang mamatay ng dahil sa iyo.

PANUNUMPA NG KATAPATAN SA WATAWAT In a flag ceremony, we show our respect and loyalty to our country represented by the flag by reciting the Panunumpa ng Katapatan sa Watawat. While reciting it, execute the Scout sign. It is a pledge you make to our flag and our country. Be sure to pause at the appropriate places marked (see below). Ang Panunumpa ng Katapatan sa Watawat Ako ay Pilipino / Buong katapatang nanunumpa / Sa watawat ng Pilipinas / at sa Bansang kanyang sinasagisag / Na may dangal, / katarungan at kalayaan / Na pinakikilos ng sambayanang / Maka-Diyos / Maka-Kalikasan / Maka-Tao / at Maka-Bansa. /

THE FLAG OF THE REPUBLIC OF THE PHILIPPINES

This was the same Flag in which the remains of General Antonio Luna was wrapped in accordance with his will when he died on June 5, 1899. This was the same Flag which Juan Luna, our world famous artist, painted for the revolutionary newspaper LA INDEPENDENCIA on January 2, 1899. This was the same Flag that, through a misunderstanding, witnessed the breaking up of friendly relations between the Filipinos and the Americans on that fateful eve of February 4, 1899 when the war between the two peoples started. This Flag was the symbol of the second part of the Philippine Revolutionary Government which began from Aguinaldo's arrival in the Philippines from Hong Kong on May 19, 1898, and ended with the surrender of General Malvar on April 16, 1902. This Flag became a part of our noble history and a symbol of hope of our people. But the dawn does not return until after the night has fully set in and run its course, as the saying goes. Indeed, this Flag witnessed the inauguration on November 15, 1935, at 8:58 in the morning, of the Commonwealth of the Philippines when the U.S. Secretary of War, George H. Dern, declared: “I hereby announce that the hereto existing government of the Philippines is now terminated, and that the Government of the Commonwealth of the Philippines, in entering upon its rights, privileges, powers, and duties as provided under the Constitution of the Commonwealth of the Philippines and the laws of the United States of America, is the successor to the hereto existing Philippine government and to all the rights and obligations thereof.”

This same flag was also witness to the bloody, heroic defense of the Philippines by millions of Filipino and American soldiers against the ruthless attacks of Japanese invaders during the Second World War, which began on December 8, 1941. It was a gallant struggle from start to finish. Many were the occasions when it seemed that the Sun and Stars would fly beneath the Rising Sun instead of with the Stars and Stripes, but the unequalled martyrdom of our soldiers did full honor to its prestige. Throughout the grim conflict the flag of the Philippines was flown upside down with the red above the blue in accordance with established national traditions. Symbolism and Emblematic Design of the Flag The blue color stands for high political purposes and noble ideals; white for purity and peace; and red for courage, bravery, and heroism – the blood of those who are ready to die for their country. The sun stands for liberty, freedom and righteousness. The gold or yellow color of the sun and stars has not been given any special political meaning. It is chosen as the natural color of these heavenly bodies to show radiance and splendor. The triangle symbolizes equality and fraternity. The eight rays of the sun stand for the first eight provinces to declare freedom from Spanish bondage: Manila, Bulacan, Pampanga, Nueva Ecija, Tarlac, Laguna, Cavite, and Batangas. The three five-pointed stars represent the three great geographical divisions of the Philippines, namely; Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao. Hoisting the Flag Hoist the Flag briskly to the top of the flagpole. As a sign of national mourning, the Flag may be raised at half mast (one-ha1f of the flagpole). To do this the Flag must first be hoisted to the top of the pole. Allow it to fly there for a moment then bring it down slowly to half mast. To lower the Flag from half mast, raise it first to the top of the pole, then bring it down slowly. The flagpole should always be planted on high grounds the tip of the pole should be higher than the roof of the biggest building in the area. Or it should be of such height as would give the Flag a commanding position within the area. If the pole is attached to a building, it should be on the roof, or mounted on a window, projecting at an angle pointing outward and upward.

Lowering the Philippine Flag The flag should always be handled with due respect. When lowering it, make sure that no part of it touches the ground. When a band is present during the lowering of the Flag, the National Anthem should be played by the band. The Flag should be lowered so as to be completely down as the last note of the National Anthem is played.

Folding the Philippine Flag After lowering the Flag, it should be folded as shown in the illustration above. There is no other way to fold it.

RESPECT FOR THE FLAG Showing Respect for the Philippine Flag: During flag raising or lowering ceremonies, stand at attention facing the Flag. If in uniform, execute the Scout salute. If you are in uniform and with a cap/hat, execute the Scout salute at the brim of your cap/hat. If you are wearing a cap/hat but not in uniform place the cap/hat with your right hand and place it over your left breast. During a parade or a ceremony and if you are in uniform, salute the Flag six steps before and drop your hand six steps after it passes by. Lead in the singing of the Pambansang Awit and in reciting the Panunumpa ng Katapatan sa Watawat. When you were working on the Membership Badge requirements, you learned how to sing the Pambansang Awit and how to recite the Panunumpa ng Katapatan sa Watawat. Since then, you must have taken part in many Flag or other ceremonies in which the Pambansang Awit was sung and the Panunumpa ng Katapatan sa Watawat recited; Now you have to assist in a Flag ceremony by leading in the singing of the Pambansang Awit and in reciting the Panunumpa ng Katapatan sa Watawat. With very little practice, you can learn how to do these easily. Ask your Troop Leader or your music teacher to show you the correct way to do these.

To be able to lead in singing the Pambansang Awit, you should: 1) Know the words and music by heart; 2) Learn the correct time measure (4/4) and how to keep time properly; 3) Know the right pitch; 4) Sing the first few words of the Anthem and let the others join in the rest of the Anthem (Note: It is not necessary to say, “Ready, Sing...”); and 5) Do not turn your back on the National Flag.

EVOLUTION OF THE PHILIPPINE FLAG As a true Filipino, you should not only love and respect our National Flag. You should also know its glorious history and how its present design came about. You can do this easily by making a scrapbook showing the different steps that took place from its earliest to the present design and colors. Use this scrapbook as your guide when you explain to the members of your Patrol or Troop the development of our national flag.

The Katipunan War Standard In the year 1892, the Katipunan under the leadership of Andres Bonifacio, designed and used a flag which may now be considered the first flag to represent the whole Filipino people. It was called the Katipunan Flag. It played an important role in the solemn ceremonies of the members of the Katipunan as well as in the fields of battle. The Katipunan Flag was made of a piece of red cloth (kundiman) on which were placed in white, the letters KKK. Sometimes the letters were arranged to form a triangle. The three (3) K's stand for “Kataastaasan, Kagalanggalangang Katipunan ng Mga Anak ng Bayan” (Most Supreme, Most Venerable Society of the Sons of the People.) Bonifacio's War Standard Bonifacio used as the war standard of his Council, the Magdiwang, a rectangular piece of kundiman cloth on which were placed a white sun with a number of rays and the three letter K’s below the sun. The sun stood for liberty.

The Revolutionary Flag When Bonifacio's Council, Magdiwang, combined with Aguinaldo's Council, Magdalo, the three K’s were replaced by a big K in Tagalog letter, placed upon a white sun with eight rays. The sun stood for liberty and the rays stood for the eight provinces that fought for the freedom of our country. This was known as the first Revolutionary Flag. The Sun of Liberty On March 17, 1897, the Revolutionary Flag was again modified during a meeting of leaders of the revolution at Naic, Cavite. The new flag had the sun at its center and was often referred to as the Sun of Liberty. Llanera's Skull Flag General Mariano Llanera of Cabiao, Nueva Ecija, a brave fighter, was one of the first active leaders of the Katipunan. For his battalion, he used a flag with the letter K, a skull and crossbones, all in white, against a field of black. The color black as well as the skull and crossbones stood for death, the price Gen. Llanera and his men were ready and willing to pay in fighting for their ideals and for the freedom of our country. This flag had a very strong effect upon the patriotic spirit of his soldiers. Magtagumpay War Standard General Pio del Pilar used a flag made of a rectangular piece of red cloth with a white triangle, at the center of which was a sunburst behind a mountain. Each corner of the triangle had a letter K. This flag had the principal features of the Katipunan War Standard and the Sun of Liberty. Red stood for bravery and white for the purity of their ideals. General del Pilar's Tricolor General Gregorio del Pilar's flag was a rectangular piece of cloth with a blue triangle at the side close to the staff, a broad red stripe at the top, and a broad black strip below. Red stood for bravery, blood and war, blue for justice and black for death. This flag was similar in general outline to the present Philippine Flag. It was, in fact, the last step between the first Philippine Flag and our present national flag.

Our National Flag It was in Hongkong where the present Philippine Flag was designed and adopted by the Junta Patriotica (Patriotic Council), a group composed of the exiled Filipino leaders under the leadership of General Emilio Aguinaldo. The flag was sewn by Marcela de Agoncillo, with the help of Mrs. Delfina Herbosa de Natividad, and Lorenza Agoncillo who were among the Filipino exiles in Hongkong.

THE SEAL OF THE REPUBLIC OF THE PHILIPPINES The Coat of Arms or the official seal of the Republic of the Philippines is the political symbol of the State. It is necessary that you should be familiar with it in the same way as the National Flag. In drawing the seal, include the evolution of the coat of arms.

Following is an article written by National Artist Galo B. Ocampo as a Member and Secretary of the Philippine Heraldry Committee which is being quoted/reprinted for your information and guidance. Ask your Troop Leader to explain any part you do not understand.

Symbol of the Nation by Galo B. Ocampo Member and Secretary Philippine Heraldry Committee The Coat of Arms of a country is the political symbol of the state. It is emblematic of the form of government and illustrative of the political ideology of the people. Thus, the various coats of arms used in the Philippines summarize our historical development and indicate the political changes in our country since the l6th century. The first coat of arms was that of the City of Manila bestowed by the Royal Grant of King Philip II on March 20, 1596; the second, that of the erstwhile Philippine Republic, known as Aguinaldo's seal used in his manifestos since October 31, 1896; the third, adopted by the Philippine Commission in 1905; the fourth, that of the Commonwealth government approved on November 6, 1 935; and the last is that of the Republic which was approved by the Congress of the Philippines and by President Manuel Roxas on July 3, 1946. Among the heraldic blazons common to our various coats of arms are the eight-rayed Philippine sun and the three stars of the Philippine National Flag. The eight rays of the Philippine sun represent the eight provinces of Manila, Bulacan, Pampanga, Nueva Ecija, Morong, Laguna, Batangas and Cavite which were declared under martial law by a decree of the Spanish government during the revolution of 1896. The three five pointed stars indicate the solidarity of Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao. The sun and three stars are one and inseparable. They are the distinctive and exclusive emblem of the Philippines as sanctioned by the Constitution, the Flag Law and Executive Order No.23. The Special Committee on the Coat of Arms created by the late President Manuel L. Quezon on December 15, 1938, under the chairmanship of the late Hon. Teodoro Kalaw, Director of the National Library and Museum to study and recommend certain modifications needed in the coat of arms of the Commonwealth of the Philippines, recognized the importance of the sun and three stars and recommended that they occupy an important place in our coat of arms. The recommendations submitted by this Committee were used as the basic pattern for the coat of arms of the Republic. 45

As a symbol of the State, the coat of arms of the Republic represents three historical phases – Philippine, Spanish and American. The Philippine symbols are the three mullets (five pointed stars) on the chief argent (upper part of the escutcheon proper in white), the eight-rayed Philippine sun, or (gold), “in rayonnat” (in splendor-straight rays) on the heraldic point of honor argent (center of the escutcheon proper in white). The National Colors are preserved in the tinctures such as – white (chief and heraldic points of honor are in argent), red and blue (in the paleways of the two pieces gules and azure respectively on the sinister and dexter field of the escutcheon). The Spanish symbol is the Lion rampant on the sinister base (right side), taken from the Royal Spanish Flag, the quartered flag of Castile and Aragon. This is the national ensign of Spain used by Legaspi in the actual occupation and colonization of the Islands in the later part of the 16th century as differentiated from the Pendon de Castilla or the Royal Standard, the flag brought by Magellan in 1521. During the Philippine Commission and Commonwealth eras, the coat of arms of the City of Manila showing the castle and sea lion was bestowed by King Philip II expressly for the Ever Loyal and Noble City of Manila in the first Royal Decree assigning a device for flags, banners, shields and seals for the said City, given at Aranjuez on the 20th day of March, 1555. Another error is the fact that a Spanish symbol occupied the heraldic point of honor which should have been reserved for a Philippine symbol. The American symbol is the American bald headed eagle displayed properly on the dexter base (left side), looking towards the dexter side olive branch with eight leaves and eight fruits in verde (green) and gules (red) respectively. On the sinister claw are three spears in alert in peace and war. Below the escutcheon proper is a scroll with inscription Republic of the Philippines. The coat of arms of the Republic of the Philippines is just the first of a series of coat of arms that the Philippine Heraldry Committee will create. The demands of protocol and official ceremonial junctions in the life of a young Republic call for appropriate symbols in accordance with established heraldic laws and tradition.

Mabini's True Decalogue

One of our greatest heroes, Apolinario Mabini, aside from playing an important role in uniting our people in their fight for liberty, left us a precious legacy. It was his El Verdadero Decalogo or The True Decalogue, which he wrote to instill in the minds of every Filipino, love of God, country and people. On the following pages are the ten provisions of the Decalogue. Study them carefully and understand their meaning. Ask your Troop Leader's help and when you are ready, read them to the members of your Patrol or Troop during one of your meetings. Explain the meaning of at least five of them. First – Love God and your honor above all things; God as the fountain of all truth, of all justice, and of all activity; and your honor, the only power which will oblige you to be faithful, just and industrious. Second – Worship God in the form which your conscience may deem most righteous and worthy; for in your conscience, which condemns evil deeds and praises good ones, God speaks. Third – Cultivate the special gifts which God has granted you, working and studying according to your ability, never leaving the path of righteousness and justice in order to attain your own perfection, by means of which you can contribute to the progress of humanity; thus, you will fulfill the mission to which God has appointed you in this life, and by doing so, you will be honored and being honored, you glorify God. Fourth – Love your country after God and your honor more than yourself; for she is the only Paradise which God has given you in this life, the only patrimony of your race, the only inheritance of your ancestors, and the only hope of posterity; because of her, you have life, love and interest, happiness, honor and God. Fifth – Strive for the happiness of your country before your own, making of her the kingdom of Reason, of Justice and of Labor; for if she be happy, you and your family shall likewise be happy. Sixth – Strive for the independence of your country, for only you can have any real interest in her advancement and exaltation, because her independence constitutes your own liberty; her advancement, your perfection and her exaltation, your own glory and immortality.

Seventh – Do not recognize in your country the authority of any person who has not been elected by you and your countrymen for authority emanates from God, and as God speaks in the conscience of every man, the person designated and proclaimed by the conscience of a whole people is the only one who can use true authority. Eight – Strive for a republic and never for a monarchy in your country; for the latter exalts one or several families and found a dynasty; the former makes a people noble and worthy through reason, great through liberty, and prosperous and brilliant through labor. Ninth – Love your neighbor as yourself for God has imposed upon him, as well as upon you, the obligation to help you and not to do to you what he would not have you do to him. Tenth – Consider your countrymen more than your neighbor, see him as a friend, your brother, or at least your comrade, with whom you are bound by one fate, by the same joys and sorrows and by common aspirations and interest. Therefore, as long as national frontier subsist, raised, and maintained by the selfishness of race and of family, with your countrymen alone can you unite in a perfect solidarity of purpose and interest, in order to have force, not only to resist the common enemy, but also to attain all the aims of human life.

THE CODE OF CITIZENSHIP AND ETHICS President Manuel L. Quezon was one of our greatest leaders. Throughout his public life, he worked hard to free our country from foreign rule. But in order to be truly free, he believed that we Filipinos should be morally strong, industrious and brave. On August 19, 1939, he prepared and issued a code which he asked all schools to teach all pupils. It is known as the Code of Citizenship and Ethics.

This code is printed on the following pages. Study it very well. Ask your Troop Leader or your teacher to explain to you any portion of the code which you may not understand. Share this code with the members of your Patrol or Troop by reading it to them in one of your Patrol or Troop meetings. You should be able to explain any point of the code to anyone who does not understand any part of it.

THE CODE OF CITIZENSHIP AND ETHICS by President Manuel L. Quezon 1. Have faith in the Divine Providence that guides the destinies of men and nations. 2. Love your country, for it is the home of your people, the seat of your affections and the source of your happiness and well-being. Its defense is your primary duty. Be ready at all times to sacrifice and die for it, if necessary. 3. Respect the Constitution which is the expression of your sovereign will. The government is your government. It has been established for your safety and welfare. Obey the laws and see that they are observed by all and that public officials comply with their duties. 4. Pay your taxes willingly and promptly. Citizenship implies not only rights but also obligations. 5. Safeguard the purity of suffrage and abide by the decisions of the majority. 6. Love and respect your parents. It is your duty to serve them gratefully and well. 7. Value your honor as you value your life. Poverty with honor is preferable to wealth with dishonor. 8. Be truthful and honest in thought and in action. Be just and charitable, courteous but dignified in your dealings with your fellowmen. 9. Lead a clean and frugal life. Do not indulge in frivolity or pretense. Be simple in your dress and modest in your behavior. 10. Live up to the noble traditions of our people. Venerate the memory of our heroes. Their lives point the way to duty and honor. 11. Be industrious. Be not afraid or ashamed to do manual labor. Productive toil is conducive to economic security and adds to the wealth of the nation. 12. Rely on your own efforts for your progress and happiness. Do not be easily discouraged. Persevere in the pursuit of your legitimate ambitions. 13. Do your work cheerfully, thoroughly and well. Work badly done is worse than work not done. Do not leave for tomorrow what you can do today. 14. Contribute to the welfare of your community and promote social justice. You do not live for yourself and your family alone. You are a part of a society to which you owe definite responsibilities. 15. Cultivate the habit of using goods made in the Philippines. Patronize the products and the trades of your countrymen. 16. Use and develop our natural resources and conserve them for posterity. They are the inalienable heritage of our people. Do not traffic with your community.

YOUR TROOP LEADERS AND OTHER SCOUT OFFICIALS

Your Troop Leader Your leader is an adult selected by your Troop Committee. He is with you to provide better program and activities. With the Assistant Troop Leader for Program and Activities, he guides the leaders in your Troop to develop a year-round program. He trains and guides boy leaders to run your Troop. He selects trains and guides your Assistant Troop Leaders. He meets with your Patrol Leaders regularly in the Patrol Leader's Council. He attends and supervises your Troop and Patrol meetings. He works harmoniously with your Troop Committee. He leads you and the other boys by good example rather than by direction. He meets your parents to share the program and encourage them to cooperate.

Assistant Troop Leader for Program and Activities Another adult leader is your Assistant Troop Leader for Program and Activities. He attends training to provide better program and activities to your troop. He assists your Troop Leader to promote more activities for your advancement. He makes sure that the Troop Annual Program of Activities is filled with interesting activities and things for you to do. He takes over the Troop when your Troop Leader is not available. Assistant Troop Leader for Administration

Here is another trained adult leader who helps in running your Troop. He assists your Troop Leader in the administration of your Troop. He takes charge of supplies and equipment, troop records and meeting facilities. He supports the needs of your Assistant Troop Leader for Program and Activities. He takes over the leadership of your Troop when your Troop Leader and Assistant Troop Leader for Program and Activities are not available. Institutional Leaders Your Troop's Sponsoring Institution uses the Scouting Program for the character building and citizenship training of the youth under its care. It may be a school, neighborhood, church, or a civic organization. Its head is called the Institutional Head. As a member of the Local Council, it is his/her duty to keep good and harmonious relationship between the Institution and the Local Council. He represents the Sponsoring institution in the Local Council. Institutional Representative He is appointed by the Institutional Head. He coordinates the activities of all the Scout Units in your institution. The Institutional Representative represents the institution in the District/Municipal Scouting Committee. Troop Committee Your Troop Committee members are selected by the Sponsoring Institution from among the parents and adults in the institution. The Committee consists of three to five parents and other adults, one of whom is named by the Sponsoring Institution as Chairman. It looks after the welfare of the Troop and provides it with adequate meeting place, equipment and finance. 51

Boy Leaders in your Troop Junior Assistant Troop Leader – A Junior Assistant Troop Leader may be appointed by your Troop Leader. He is a responsible boy chosen among your group. He helps you in the conduct of Troop or Patrol activities. He can help carry out the plans of your Troop. Senior Patrol Leader – Your Senior Patrol Leader (SPL) is one of your fellow Scouts who is the leader of all Patrol Leaders in your Troop. He may be appointed by your Troop Leader because his leadership ability or he may be elected by the Patrol Leaders Council, if the Troop Leader so decides. The Senior Patrol Leader presides over all meetings of the Patrol Leaders Council. He assigns duties and responsibilities to other leaders. He appoints a Troop Scribe, Troop Quartermaster and other boy leaders as may be necessary. Troop Scribe/Treasurer – Your Troop Scribe acts as the Secretary of your Troop. He is appointed to keep the records of the Troop. He also keeps the record of attendance of all Troop members in meetings and other activities of the Troop. Troop Quartermaster – Your Troop Quartermaster is appointed by the Troop Leader. He works with the Assistant Troop Leader or Administration and Supply, and takes charge of Troop property and equipment. Patrol Leader's Council – Your Patrol Leader's Council is made up of all Patrol Leaders in your Troop, the SPL, the Troop Scribe, the Troop Quartermaster and any other boy leader designated by the Troop Leader. The SPL presides over all meetings of the Patrol Leader's Council. The Council meets regularly after the weekly Troop meetings to plan various activities and projects for the Troop. The Troop Leader and his Assistants including the Junior Assistant Troop Leader serve as advisers.

Municipal District and Area Scout Leaders District Scout Leaders – Your Troop is under the supervision of the District. Each District is headed by a Chairman. Other Scout Leaders like the District Scout Commissioners help in running the district Scouting activities.

If your district is well organized, it should have nine (9) Standing Committees in carrying out the program of Scouting. These committees are Membership Expansion, Camping, Activities, Awards, Relationships, Health and Safety, Advancement, Leader Training, and Finance Resources. Each of them has its own functions and responsibilities. Area Scout Leaders – Another well organized group is your Area Scouting Committee. It is composed of two or more districts. Its head is the Area Chairman. It also has nine (9) standing committees like the district where you belong. Your area is also represented by an Area Scout Representative. He is a qualified Scout who is chosen in a Youth Forum. He is a member of the Local Council Executive Board and represents the area in its meetings.

Council Officials

The officers of the Local Council are the Chairman, three Vice Chairmen, a Treasurer, an Assistant Treasurer, An Auditor, the Council Commissioners for Advancement and Activities and for Leader Training, and the Scout Executive as Secretary and Executive Officer of the Council. The Scout Executive exercises general supervision, administration, and direction of the Council operations and the work of the Council Office Staff. He sees to it that the standards of the Movement are maintained at all times. One or more Field Scout Executives assist the Scout Executive in his work in the Local Council.

SKILLS FOR SELF-RELIANCE

PRACTICING THRIFT Maintaining a Savings Account – Your parents and Scout Leaders will tell you that many of the habits you acquired while you were young will be a part of your life for as long as you live. It is necessary that as a Scout you develop good habits and find no cause to break a bad one later on. One of the points of the Scout law is thriftiness. You can be thrifty in many ways, such as the following examples:

• Help conserve the natural resources of your country. Do not wantonly kill harmless birds or animals, destroy trees and plants. Do not waste or squander property like food, clothing, supplies, or equipment. • Make efficient use of your time and energy. Do not let time pass by without doing something useful for yourself and for others. • Be careful with the money you have. What is really important is the manner you make use of your money. Never indulge in useless spending, instead save money for something you wish to have or meeting an expected need. • There is a better method of keeping your money and that is by depositing it in any local savings bank. Information on how to open a savings account can be easily obtained from any bank. Very likely your Troop has a savings fund established by your scout Leaders. This fund will be used to pay the cost of your Troop camping gear and equipment, or perhaps for the payment of uniforms of the

54 members. By contributing to this fund you are practicing thrift and at the same time meeting the thrift requirement. Other Ways of Meeting the Thrift Requirement – If you find it impossible to make deposits in any savings bank or in your Troop or Patrol savings fund, you may meet the requirement in some other way. You can establish in your backyard such projects as raising chicken, cultivating a vegetable garden, or caring for a sow. With every little effort and determination on your part, you will find that your project will help you earn some money for your needs. Taking Care of Property – The things that you own are important to you. They are also important to your family. The clothes you have overgrown, for example, when well taken cared of, may still be used by your younger brothers. You thus save your parents from expenses which may then be used for other purposes that will be of benefit to everyone in your family. Other discarded things like your toys may still be used by other members of the family. Take good care of things that belong to you and to your family. When you do this you get the benefits for yourself and also your family. Have a place for everything and have everything in its proper place. Learn how to open the pages of your books properly so that they will not be torn. Cover your books so that they will always look neat and clean. You sometimes use things that belong to other people. The public libraries will lend you books your school issues you athletic equipment and many other items. It is your duty to take good care of them. Do not deface things that will lessen their usefulness. After using things that are not yours, keep them properly or return them in the same condition as when you borrowed them. Treat the public buildings such as your school, church and town hall, as if they were your own. Never write anything on the walls of buildings. The streets and parks are maintained for your use. Do not scatter trash around or make these places dirty. You have a responsibility for the upkeep of public property. Guard it and take good care of it.

CONSERVATION Conserving Our Natural Resources – The Philippines has limited natural resources. It is important that these natural resources be properly conserved and protected. You will see the consequences if the natural wealth of the country is exhausted and exploited unnecessarily. The generations to come need them as much or even more than you do now. It was recorded that during the Spanish Regime that the Abra River in Northern Luzon teemed with all kinds of fish. A person wading across the river had to be careful because fish were so thick he could not but step over giant lobsters and collide with schools of fish. Fishing equipment were then unnecessary because what one needed was only to wade in the water and take his pick with his bare hands for a day’s supply. Unfortunately, the situation is no longer the same. Fishes of all kinds have become very rare not only in the Abra River but in all Philippine rivers and waters. Why is this so? This has been attributed to the unwise ways of fishing used by our people. Fish can longer be found in plentiful quantities in the fishing areas of the country. It seems that some unscrupulous people have declared a sort of war, using explosives and poisonous devices against these innocent and unarmed creatures.

Remember that the use of explosive and poison in fishing is wrong because they kill all kinds of marine life that are within their range, whether they be young or old, big or small, edible or non-edible. If such wanton killing of marine life is allowed to go unchecked, the Philippines will one day face a scarcity of sea foods. Fish will then become extinct and the next generations of Filipinos will ultimately suffer. The Philippine government realizes this danger. It has, therefore adopted measures to conserve fish and to render our fishing areas always plentiful.

All these should make you realize the value of conservation. Conservation is the wise use of natural resources, minerals, soil, plants and animals so that these resources will continue to serve the greatest number of people to the fullest advantage. It means the setting up of a practical plan under which the people may share in the use and enjoyment of the natural resources of our country. You can do your share in conserving our natural resources by fully understanding what must be done to undertake community development projects on conservation. Forests are the habitat of birds, deer, wild hogs, monkeys and many others of our native fauna. They are also the sources of the thriving lumber industry which supply other countries and the Philippines with soft and hard woods for furniture, houses, factory buildings, and many chemical products. Rattan, bees wax, and resins are other important forest products. Buri palms supply juices that are boiled down to make syrup. Their leaves also furnish us with materials for mats and hats. Swamps also make important contributions to our needs. Nipa palms supply us with nipa thatches, vinegar, and alcohol. From mangrove swamps, we can gather firewood and bark which is used for dying fibers and tanning leather. It is also important for you to know the dangers that result from the uncontrolled cutting of trees. Many people are still unaware of these dangers and some, careless and greedy for gain, cut down young and old trees indiscriminately, leaving large bare tracts of land.

In some places in the Philippines, such as Ifugao and Bontoc in the north, so much of the forest have already been destroyed that there is a local shortage of trees. At the end of the dry season, people in these places light fires to burn off the old grass. When the rains come, the fresh green grass, which is good for cattle, springs up. These grass fires account for the shrinking of the forests in certain parts of the Mountain Province, because the ﬁre burns the young trees and sometimes even the big ones.

The Kaingin system, which is the undesirable practice of burning a small portion of a forest for settling and farming purposes is so prevalent in many parts of the country, accounts for most of the large forest fires that are fast denuding our forests. We should learn a lesson from the experiences of the people of Ormoc during the flood in 1991. Large forest areas were denuded and never replanted. Most of the mountains thus became bare. When it rains, the water runs down quickly into the rivers, making them overflow, causing floods, covering the field with sand and rock and leaving the uplands without moisture. The climate became hot and dry and droughts are now frequent. Forests, not only protect the earth from the sun, and so retain moisture in the soil, but they also draw water up through their roots and give it out again to the air through their leaves, thus helping to cause rain. When forests are removed, streams and rivers dry up. The government is now doing everything to protect our forests. It is engaged in many reforestation projects and planting of trees in many places. Before anyone is allowed to go into the lumber business, the government requires him to obtain a permit specifying on which areas he will cut trees and to legally bind himself to adhere to all forest laws and regulations of the Philippines. There are a few cycles you need to know to see the real need for conservation. A cycle is a process which continues in a circle with no start or end. It is like a bike wheel. One of these circles is the Hydrologic Cycle. No matter where you start in the cycle, if you follow what happens to water, you come back to your starting point.

Precipitation is rain, hail, sleet, or snow. These droplets fall to the earth from clouds moved by differences in air pressure which makes wind. Surface run-off takes place when the droplets fall faster than the soil can soak them up. The excess runs downhill to streams, rivers, and finally, to lakes and oceans. Percolation is what happens to the droplets that don't run off the Band. This water is used by plants. It also moves deeper into the ground to become part of the groundwater supply. When all space in the ground is filled with water, it flows along cracks to come up as springs, or in rivers, lakes, or the ocean. Evaporation is the process by which water in lakes, oceans, or any other body of water or surface is changed into vapor. This vapor rises into the air. It finally forms clouds. Wind and high temperature speed up evaporation. Transpiration is the loss of water from plants to the air. It is another way vapor enters the air. The water enters the plants from the groundwater supply.

All life forms are tied together. Plants, mammals, birds, insects, and even micro organisms depend on each other for life. They are so closely tied they are called the web of nature. Water Pollution Man pollutes at the surface runoff and percolation stages. It is here that man dumps raw sewage, industrial wastes, detergents, pesticides, fertilizers, and litter such as cans, paper, and bottles. Man has polluted his water supply for centuries. There used to be a tiny bit of pollution in a huge water supply. Today we have great amounts of pollution in the same water. Now there are so many people making so much pollution that the water can't clean itself. Water may carry chemicals that are eaten by the tiniest water animals. Larger animals eat thousands of the smaller ones and so the chemical builds up and is magnified in each larger animal. When you finally eat a large fish, the accumulation of the chemical enters your body. Water pollution puts an end to water sports. There is no swimming and there are no more fish to be caught. Silt fish abound in lakes. You can't even enjoy camping by a polluted stream. It stinks. Air Pollution Man pollutes not only the water. He also pollutes the air when he burns fossil fuels like gasoline, oil, and coal. If they don't burn completely, they give off chemicals that pass into the air. Air pollution around big cities is so bad it makes smog. Smog is unhealthful to man, injures plants needed for food, and attacks building materials and cloth. Smog even cuts down the amount of sunlight reaching the earth. 59

What Can You Do To Help You can help in forest conservation by starting tree planting projects. With your fellow Scouts in the Troop you can offer your services to the community or the government for this purpose. You can also help prevent forest fires. You should always be careful in keeping your campfires under control and putting them out just as carefully when you leave the camp site. If you are living in forest areas, you should learn forest fire fighting methods and be prepared at all times to assist in putting out forest fires. You must immediately report to the proper authorities any forest fire that you see. Conservation Projects There are many conservation projects that your Patrol or Troop could undertake that will benefit your community or the nation. Here are some suggestions: • Elimination of mosquito-breeding places. • Application of conservation measures on streams, dams, lakes, etc. • Humping of downhill roads or tracks to prevent rainwater run-off. • Planting of grass covers to prevent erosion. • Planting of tree-breaks against wind erosion. • Improvement of waste-disposal methods. The members of your Patrol or Troop may join a reforestation project initiated and being carried out by the government. Or, your Patrol or Troop may undertake a tree or shrub planting for various purposes such as windbreaks, shade, beauty, nature study, and preserve indigenous plants that are becoming scarce due to man's destructive ways. Select a conservation project that is needed and beneficial to your community. In your Patrol Leader's Council, make the plans for carrying out this project. Get outside support. Make sure your project is successful. Principles of Conservation Here are some general principles of conservation as applied to air, soil, and water. Study each one of them until you can explain and demonstrate their usefulness. Ask the help of your Scout Leader or your Science Teacher. Air Conservation 1) In our modern world, especially in the cities and big towns, noise, whether it comes from an airplane, a factory, cars, radio or other sources, has become a serious problem. It is the cause of nervous stress, hearing defects, sleeplessness, headache and pain among people. As much as possible, we should avoid or minimize noise. 2) Conserve oxygen, one of the elements of air which is needed in the process of burning (combustion). All living things will die without oxygen. 3) Plants of all kinds, big or small are the earth's oxygen factories. 4) During campfires or when cooking, you should see that more heat is produced with less fuel; less smoke is emitted; the soil and its grass cover are protected; sparks are limited or eliminated.

5) As plants purify the air, there should be much greenery around. Soil Conservation Soil is the most important wealth of a country. All life depends upon the soil, Any land with poor soil is a poor land indeed. If you study the needs of daily life, you will notice that nearly all your food, clothing and shelter are derived from plants and trees. Animals furnish you with certain foods and materials for clothing and shelter. But animals live largely upon plants, so in a way, every animal product is derived from plants. Plants, however, cannot provide us with what we need if there is no soil in which they could flourish. Plants feed upon air, moisture, and the minerals which they take from the soil. By a natural chemical process, this is transformed into the body of the plant itself. Nature maintains a balanced cycle to sustain life. Animal life depends directly or indirectly on plant life, and these in turn die and decay to nourish the soil and the plants. In the beginning, there were only rocks on the earth. Exposure to moisture and air for a long time caused them to rot and decay gradually. This took a long time, but after a while, they crumbled to pieces. You must have seen a rock that you could break into little bits with your fingers. This kind of rock is decaying. As rocks decay they break up into small particles of sand clay, which gradually become finer and finer, and thus form into soil. Most soil is a mixture of sand, clay and decayed vegetable matter. Rocks that are near the surface of the earth decay more rapidly than those far beneath the surface. There are several reasons for this, three of which will be given here. There are always cracks in the rock, and when it rains, water trickles down into these cracks. The water when combined with air and sunshine slowly breaks apart the particles of rock and so hastens decay. Plants too, reach their roots down into the tiny cracks, and as the roots grow larger and larger, they force off pieces of rock to make room for themselves. Earthworms also help to break up coarse sand and earth. They get their food from the earth. In getting this food, they take a great deal of earth into their bodies and grind in into tiny bits. It is possible to have different kinds of soil within a very small area. Differences in the kinds of soil are caused by the decay of different kinds of rocks. Most of the soil in the Philippines is composed of decayed sandstone, coral limestone, and the mud, ashes, and rocks emitted by volcanoes. When plants find in the soil the kind of food they like, they grow well and we say that the soil is fertile. When plants do not find good food in the soil, they do not grow well, and we say that the soil is barren. The soil becomes barren in the following: As the plants grow, they take the plant food out of the soil. After a few years, if no food is returned to the soil, it will become barren. This is the reason why the intelligent farmer uses rotation of crops in his farm. One type of plant takes one kind of food from the soil and deposits there its refuse which in turn may be the food needed by another type of crop. Nitrogenous crops such as beans and mongoes perform this function. Fertilizers are also very useful to farmers. Grass, rice straw, and otherwise useless parts of a crop plowed under the soil, become good plant food when they decay. Soil made from decayed vegetable matter is very rich.

These are some of the ways of conserving the soil. But you should also know that rain, water, rivers, and winds carry soil away. This is true of lands where there are no plants. Trees hold the soil under their roots. The most famous example of the industry and ingenuity of man in soil conservation is found in the Banaue (Ifugao) Rice Terraces. These terraces are really fields dug out of the sides of the mountains. Stone or clay walls hold the soil with which the terraces are filled, and water is brought by means of extensive irrigation ditches. There are thousands of kilometers of these stone and clay wall in the sub province of Ifugao alone, and most of them are as high as or higher than a man of average height. You can help in soil conservation. If you have a garden, a lawn or a farm, see to it that the soil maintains its fertility and abundance. Use tested methods for preventing erosion by wind or rain and see that the crops that help maintain the fertility of the soil are planted regularly. Help to conserve your country's natural resources which may be done completely in a few years. Our forest minerals, marine and other resources will not last very long unless wise measures for their preservation are adopted and enforced. Help protect and conserve animal and plant life, wild or tame. Be interested and cooperate freely in conservation measures, both local and national. Realize the need of preserving our natural resources for the Filipinos still to be born. From the history of other nations, you have learned the value of conservation. You do not want the Ormoc Tragedy to be repeated. Below are some steps that you and your patrol can take action to help in Soil Conservation: 1) Soil is made from many kinds of rocks. Streams, plant roots, rain help make soil. 2) Organic matter called humus is important to the soil. a. Soil rich in humus resists drought condition (lack of water). b. Humus improves aeration of the soil. c. Humus in the soil lessens damage due to water erosion. d. Humus helps the soil store plant food. 3. Don't hurt earthworms. One of God's most remarkable animals, an earthworm is a living soil factory. 4. Keep the soil fertile. It is important to conservation. 5. Plants conserve the fertility of soil. 6. Fertile soil gives high food production and resists drought. 7. All farmlands and even small gardens should use the contour farming method to reduce soil erosion. 8. Large holes in the ground or gullies should be covered as they cause soil erosion.

Water Conservation 1) Help maintain the Water Cycle. Any disturbances in this cycle is a threat to man. 2) Keep rivers, lakes, dams and the sea clean. Never dump empty bottles, cans and other household refuse into them. 3) Make sure detergent (soap) used in your home is low in phosphate content. 4) Don’t use millstone as -they are big water foulers. 5) Don’t flush toilets unnecessarily. And don’t put heavy paper, cigarettes, foil, plastic bags, rugs, grease, solvents, medicines or other chemicals into toilets. These materials damage sewage systems. 6) When changing the oil of a motorcar, motorcycle, boat, lawnmower or other engines, make sure that none is spilled. One liter of oil makes one million liters of the water undrinkable. 7) Keep all the washers of your faucets in good order. Dripping faucets waste vast quantities of water. Don’t wash under a running faucet. Use a basin. Always keep the faucet tightly closed. 8) For your flower or vegetable garden, you will need less water when your soil is rich in humus or in mulch or both. Taking Care of a Tree Imagine the world without a tree? Would it not be a dull and unsightly place to live in? So, Scouts are encouraged to plant trees as a community service or conservation project to beautify the landscape. Trees are also useful as shade from the hot sun, as windbreakers and as a shelter for birds and other wildlife. They provide wood for houses and for fuel. Best of all, they give us many kinds of delicious fruit to eat. When you plant a tree, select the right kind for your purpose for beauty, for shade or for fruit. Ask those who know, like the local agriculturist or Bureau of Forestry personnel, the best time to plant trees in your place ‘and the types of trees best suited to local needs and conditions. The method of planting and the tools to be used depend upon the size and age of a tree- seedling. Here are pointers on how to plant trees: How to Handle Seedlings Always keep the seedlings inside the packing material. Take them out one at a time when you are ready to plant them. Do not expose seedlings to sunlight. They will dry up and die. How to Plant a Seedling 1) Dig a hole about six inches deep and six inches wide. Remove the soil and put it aside. Then dig the subsoil and also put it aside. 2) For potted seedlings, slit the plastic bag at the bottom taking care not to remove the soil. Be sure to keep the ball of earth around the roots. 3) Place the seedling in the hole. Keep the root collar on level with the surface of the ground. 4) Keeping the seedling straight, fill the hole with the topsoil first, then with the subsoil. 5) Level off the soil by gently but firmly stamping it around the stem Of the seedling. (Below

are Common Planting Tools) How to Take Care of a Growing Plant 1) Water the newly-planted seedling just enough to keep the soil moist. 2) Put bamboo or wooden stakes around the plant for protection. 3) Water the seedlings everyday, especially during summer. The Best Time to Plant Trees The best time to transplant seedlings is when the rainy season has just begun. At that time, the soil is moist enough to be able to supply the seedlings with water continuously. Fires in the Open Annually, in the United States, millions of dollars ($) worth of timber and crops go up in smoke on account of carelessness on the part of thoughtless campers. Fortunately for us, fires in our forests and fields are rare, but we as a people, must continue observing proper precautions when building fire outdoors in order to avoid setting our fields and trees on fire. As in medical science, prevention is more desirable than cure. A Scout does a lot of fire building in the open. He builds a fire for cooking his meals, another to keep him warm during cold evenings, and still another to light and lend enchantment to the camp fire programs and ceremonies he attends. He must therefore know and practice the proper precautions when he builds a fire. The first thing to do when building a fire in the open is to select a spot about four meters away from the nearest tree or shrub. Clear a big circle (about two yards in diameter) of dry grass, leaves and other things that may spread the fire. In that cleared space, build your fire. While your fire is going, always have sufficient quantity of water on hand for emergency purposes. Do not leave the fire unattended. When the fire has served its purpose and you have no further use for it, put it out by sprinkling water over the embers. This procedure brings quicker results than pouring. Turn logs and sticks over and drench the other side. Stir the embers until the last spark is out. Then collect the debris and bury them deep in the ground, and replace the sod you removed. In this way, you will leave the spot you occupied as green as it was when you arrived. You will also avoid setting trees and fields on fire and causing a lot of damage to property and, maybe, life. Remember that green is the color of Scouting. And a Scout must always do his best to preserve the “green” of living things. Thus written by one of America's great poets, Joyce Kilmer about one of America’s great sources of beauty, health and wealth. A tree is an artistic creation as beautiful as a poem. It is of great use and value to people. We use its wood for our houses and furniture, its branches for fuel, its fruits for food and medicine, its leaves for other things. It shelters us from the heat of the sun and the cold of rain, and helps in renewing the fertility of our soil with its rotten trunks and leaves. It has many other uses A tree is like a human being. It eats, drinks, and breathes. Its roots get food and water from the soil and pass them on to the other parts through the bark. The leaves draw in air and sunlight and pass them on to the other parts through the bark also. Without the bark, the tree will die.

A man may not die if his arm or some other part of his body is cut off or otherwise rendered useless. But he will be handicapped for life. He can never act like a normal person again. Like him, a tree with a section of its bark or trunk mutilated or chopped off is disabled forever. It will never be as strong as those which are whole, nor will its fruits be as many and as luscious. Its sheltering leaves will never be as green and as luxuriant. Trees are our friends and deserve our kindness and consideration. They are very useful and should not be needlessly destroyed. In keeping with the sixth and ninth points of the Scout Law, therefore, a Scout (we do not have to say a good Scout as, to us, all Scouts are good) keeps his bolo, knife, hatchet, and other sharp tools away from trees in the spirit of fun and practice. He has other means of testing the sharpness of his tools, and he knows that the trunks of trees are not the right place for carving his initials, totem signs, and figures. Only vandals do these senseless things. Types of Trees Best Suited to Local Needs and Conditions Trees of the Cities – Because of their love of nature, their need for shade and protection against wind and rain, people have planted trees around their homes and created artificial parks and forests in the cities and in big towns. The Most Common Trees Narra. Planted mainly to provide protection against wind and rain. It is our national tree. Banaba. This is one of the few trees found only in the Philippines. It bears large clusters of beautiful flowers during the month of June. Cypress. This tree is planted merely for decorative purposes. You often see them on the center islands of streets and avenues. Agoho. Sometimes mistaken for pine tree because of its conical shape and its needle-like leaves. This tree is used for decorative purposes. Teak. This tree is usually found in parks or in reforestation projects. Dapdap. This tree bears very attractive reddish yellow flowers and is often planted in parks and lawns. Acacia. Because of its widely extended branches, this tree gives very good shade. Caballero. This is also knows as the flame tree because of its brilliant red flowers that grow in clusters at the end of its branches. Mahogany. This tree is well-known not only for its shade, but also for its high grade of wood famous all over the world. Sampaloc. This large tree gives good shade and bears fruits often used in the preparation of favorite Filipino dishes and sweets. Molave. Being one of the sturdiest and hardest of Philippine trees, this is usually the choice in tree-planting ceremonies all over the country, especially during Arbor Day. *****************************

Trees of the Road – To beautify, provide shade, and protect public roads and highways from damage, different varieties of trees are planted along the roadsides all over the country. The trees are selected for the following characteristics: • Wind and drought resistant • Persistent leaves • Strong limbs • Non-poisonous • Deep-rooted • Resistant to disease • Fast growing If you examine the trees that line the streets in your town and those along the national roads, you will find that many of them are the following: • Golden Shower • Kamagong • Mahogany • Narra • Talisay • Teak • Acacia • African Tulip • Agoho • Banaba • Firetree • Fringon Domestic Trees – There are certain trees that are usually planted in home lots, backyards, lawns and sidewalks. The most common are the following: – For their shade and beauty (because of their green canopy and strong root system): • African Tulip • Kamagong • Anonas • Sampalok • Banaba • Talisay • Bitaog – For lawns (trees look best when standing alone): • Golden Shower • Pink Shower • Agoho • Chico – For their wood and edible fruits: • Kaimito • Ipil-Ipil

• Kamachile • Mango – For aesthetic effect: • Balikbikan • Polosanto • Bottle Brush • Saraca • Queen of Flowering Trees

RESCUE AND FIRST AID First Aid is the immediate care given to anyone who is hurt or suddenly taken ill. It is a temporary treatment to keep the patient comfortable or to prevent his injuries from becoming more serious before the arrival of a doctor.

The Principles in applying First Aid are: l) Keep calm. 2) Work fast but carefully. Identify the condition of the victim and set a plan of action. 3) Keep the patient quiet, warm, and comfortable. 4) Loosen tight clothing, collar, waistband, and belt. Move the victim only if necessary. 5) Keep crowds away. If needed, ask capable persons to help you. 6) Get medical aid at once. Phone the doctor, get someone to call her/him, or bring the injured person to the doctor, to a hospital, or clinic. 7) Don't tell the victim how serious the condition or injury is. If injured, don't let the victim see the injury. 8) Treat the most serious condition first. 9) If the patient vomits, lower the head and turn it to one side. 10) Give artificial respiration when needed.

Here are five vital steps for treating accident victims. Perform them in the order they are given. 1) Treat hurry cases immediately. A hurry case is any condition that threatens a victim's life. The most serious are stoppage of breathing, no heartbeat, severe bleeding choking, and poisoning by mouth. 2) Send someone to call for help. Treat every accident victim for shock. 3) Examine the victim for other injuries that may require first aid. 4) Plan what to do next. If help is on the way, keep the victim comfortable and watch for any changes in the victim's condition. 5) Where there are no phones, decide on a clear course of action. A victim who can walk alone or with some support may be able to hike to a road. When injuries are serious though, it is usually best to send two Scouts for help.

WARNING! For your own safety, do not attempt to rescue accident victims if you are not properly trained.

Artificial Respiration (AR) Drowning, electrical shock, gas poisoning, and a hard blow or fall can cause breathing to stop. This state is called asphyxiation. Unconsciousness and then death follow after breathing stops unless something is done immediately. Victims who have stopped breathing but the heartbeat or pulse is present, can be revived by artificial respiration. It must be applied at once because a victim can only live a few minutes without air in the lungs. For gas poisoning or electrical shock, your first move should be to free the victim from the suffocating gas or from contact with the live wire. Be very careful not to get the poison or the electric shock yourself. Your own safety is your priority. Get other people to help you. Then, apply artificial respiration immediately and do'’t stop until the person is revived or until a doctor says so.

Here are the steps of artificial respiration: 1) Establish unresponsiveness. Tap or shake victim's shoulders while shouting, “Hey, are you okay?” If the victim is unresponsive, call for and shout, “Help!” 2) Check the airway. Clear the victim's mouth of foreign objects. If you are positively certain that there is no neck or spine injury, open the airway by tilting the head back as far as you can using the Chin Lift – Head Tilt Maneuver. Push the forehead down with your hand while lifting the head with your fingers on the chin. 3) Look, listen, and feel (LLF) for any evidence of breathing, i.e. breath sounds and movement of chest. If the victim is breathless, pinch the nostrils shut with your thumb and forefinger, apply two (2) blows or initial Ventilatory Maneuver (VM).

4) Check breathing and pulse for five to ten (5-10) seconds. If the victim is not breathing but the pulse is present, you have to shout, “Prepare for a transport facility while I perform artificial resuscitation!” 5) Start AR. Open the airway. Pinch nostrils shut with your thumb and forefinger. Lock your mouth over the victim's mouth. It must be airtight. Follow this sequence: a. Nose pinched b. Blow c. Nose unpinched d. LLF while counting e. Repeat 6) Let the victim breathe out. The victim's chest should rise every time you apply artificial ventilations. a. For adults (1 full slow breath, every 5 seconds: 12 times/minute) b. For child (1 full slow breath, every 4 seconds: 15 times/minute) c. For infants (1 gentle slow breath, every 3 seconds: 20 times/minute) 7) After each sets, check for pulse for 10 seconds. 8) If the air isn't getting into the lungs, re-tilt the head. On a child, breathe through both the nose and mouth.

Place blankets or coats under and over the victim for warmth. When revived, don't let the victim get up for at least an hour. The body, especially the heart, is starved for oxygen and if the victim gets up too soon, there is danger of serious collapse.

Remember Your ABC's Airway – Check and open the airway. Remove any foreign bodies that is blocking the victim's airway. Breathing – Look if the chest has a movement. Listen for any breath sounds. Feel with your cheek, if the victim is not breathing give artificial respiration. Circulation – Check if the pulse is present. If the pulse is not present, proceed to CPR. Control bleeding if any. Cardio-Pulmonary Resuscitation (CPR) If the heart suddenly stops (cardiac arrest), brain damage begins after four to six minutes, and death will certainly occur if cardio-pulmonary resuscitation is not given. CPR is administered to victims who have stopped breathing and have no pulse. CPR is an emergency way of keeping a victim alive by keeping the air passage open, by restoring breathing and maintaining circulation when heart beat stops. CPR provides both mouth-to-mouth (or nose) respiration and chest compressions.

Steps: 1) Check for a response. Tap or shake the victim's shoulders gently and shout: “Hey, are you okay?” If there is no response, call and shout for help. Have the patient lie flat on his back on a flat, hard surface. If you have to roll him, roll him once. 2) Check and open airway. Remove any foreign matter from the mouth like gums, candies, tobacco. Open victim's airway by lifting up the chin gently with one hand while pushing down on the forehead with other hand to tilt head back. 3) Check and restore breathing. Look, listen, and feel (LLF) for air exchange and for chest movements for at least five seconds. If patient doesn't breath, give two (2) initial blows or initial ventilatory maneuver (VM), using the mouth-to-mouth/nose technique. 4) Check breathing and pulse for five to ten (5-10) seconds. Check the pulse by feeling the carotid artery in the neck. To locate the carotid artery, feel the Adam's Apple and slide the index and middle fingers into the groove between the voice box and the neck muscle. Press firmly but gently to feel for the pulse. Hold for at least five seconds. 5) If a pulse is not present and the victim is not breathing, shout, “Prepare for transport facilities while I perform CPR!” Perform CPR. 6) External Chest Compression (ECC). Kneel at the patient's side near his chest. To determine the pressure point for adult cardiac compressions, locate the bony tip of the breastbone (sternum), called the Xiphoid Process, with your ring finger and place two fingers just above that point – about 1-1/2 inches above. Place the heel of one hand adjacent to your fingers and the second hand on top of the first. Position your shoulders directly over victim's breastbone and press downward, keeping arms straight. Keep your fingers off the victim's ribs. The rhythm for ECC's should be equal. a. For adults, the depth of compression should be 1-1/2 to 2 inches. For one rescuer CPR, apply fifteen ECC's and 2 rescue breathing (15:2) for every 4 cycles. While, for 2 rescuer CPR, apply five ECC and 1 rescue breathing for every 12 cycles. b. For child – 5 ECC’s and 1 rescue breathing (5:1) for every 15 cycles. The depth of compression should be 1 to 1-1/2 inches. c. For infant – 5 ECC’s and 1 rescue breathing (5:1) for every 20 cycles. The depth of compression should be 1/2 to 1 inch. d. Execute this at proper rate and ratio. You may count aloud to establish rhythm: “one- and-two-and-three-and- four- and-BLOW”

******

Many people have been revived only after some considerable amount of time of applying AR/CPR. Continue AR/CPR as indicated until: S Spontaneous pulse and breathing. Reassess victim every cycle. Stop, if the pulse and breathing is restored.

T Turned over (care) to professional medical help or to the emergency room of the nearest hospital.

O Operator (rescuer) is totally exhausted. You have to rest. Ask another person to help you and take your place.

P Physician assumes responsibility. If medical doctor in the scene assumes responsibility. ******

7) Always run your fingers up the lower margin of the victim's rib cage and locate the Xiphoid Process with your middle finger every time you do chest compressions. Do not remove hands from victim's sternum. Continue CPR once started until victim begins to breathe spontaneously and the heartbeat begins or until the doctor arrives. If there are two rescuers, they should be on opposite sides of the victim. One rescuer should perform the compressing at a rate of 60 per minute while the second rescuer is giving a breathe (artificial respiration) after every fifth compression. The rhythm should be: “one and two and three and four and BLOW.” Compressions should not be interrupted by the breathing.

Points To Observe In Herbal Treatment 1) Wash the leaves thoroughly. 2) It is preferable to use a stainless kettle or boiler. Never use aluminum. 3) Preparations or decoctions are good only for 12 hours. Herbal Treatment Fever – Boil two cups of chopped balimbing leaves in a gallon of water for 15 minutes. Strain. Use the liquid for cold / hot sponge bath. To help lower the fever, roast dried okra seeds. Grind or pound them fine. Boil 1/2 cup of the grounded seeds in two (2) glasses of water for l5 minutes. Cool and strain, drink. Observe the following dosage: Adults: 1 cup, 3 times daily every after meal Children: Infants: 1 tablespoon, 3 times daily, every after meal 2 to 6 yrs old: 1/4 cup, 3 times a day, every after meal 7 to 12 yrs old: 1/2 cup, 3 times a day, every after meal Headaches due to High Blood Pressure – Cut two (2) calamansi fruits in half. Extract the juice. Put this on a spoon and drink without water or sugar. Sore Throat – Gargle warm water with salt every hour. You can also gargle the same if your throat is sore and you are beginning to lose your voice. Infected Mosquito Bites – Pound 5 to l0 kataka-taka leaves and extract the juice. Apply it directly on the infected bite, 3 times a day. Another herbal medication is the unripe fruit and seeds of atis. Pound and extract juice from one unripe fruit. Apply on the infected bites, 3 times a day. Toothache – Bawang (garlic) fillings may be used. Slice a small piece enough to fit the tooth cavity. Place inside the cavity as filling. Replace the fillings, twice a day. If your face is swollen due to your toothache. Some kataka-taka leaves may be crushed. And apply leaves directly on the swollen face. Small Burn Area – Wash sabila leaves with soap and water. Pound the leaves and extract the juice. Apply it on the burn area after soaking in warm salt solution once a day. Atsuete may also be used as an alternative. Wash the leaves with soap and water. Boil 10 leaves in 5 glasses of water. Let them cool. Soak the burn area for 10 minutes, once a day. Cough – Boil 1 cup of chopped fresh alagaw leaves in 2 glasses of water for 15 minutes. Drain. Squeeze two (2) calamansi into the liquid. Put 1 tablespoon sugar. Observe the following dosage: Adults: 1/2 cup leaves every 4 hours Children: Infants: l teaspoon every 4 hours 2 to 6 yrs old: 2 tablespoons every 4 hours 7 to 12 yrs old: 1/4 cup every 4 hours

Water Treatment For Fever If the forehead and body of the patient is warm or hot, get several pieces of ice and wrap them with a face towel. Put the towel on the forehead of the patient. When the towel becomes hot or warm, reposition the towel. Keep on doing this until the temperature of the patient goes down. At the same time, rub the body – chest, arms, and legs – of the patient with rubbing alcohol. Put a piece of cotton wet with alcohol on each armpit of the patient. If the patient is chilling, put both feet on bottles filled with hot water. Be sure that the heat will not burn the patient. Then cover the patient with a blanket. If the patient is perspiring, wipe off the perspiration and change his/her shirt or clothing. Give the patient plenty of water and fruit juice to drink. Wounds and their Care A wound is a break in the tissues of the body and may be external or internal. They are classified as either closed or open. A closed wound damages tissues without a break in the skin. These are bruises and contusions that are marked by local pain and swelling. The victim will also manifest some black and blue discoloration. An open wound is a break in the skin. Open wounds generally fall into five kinds, namely: abrasion, incision, laceration, puncture, and avulsion.

An abrasion results when the body gets in contact with hard rough surfaces while either is in motion, and a part of the skin is rubbed or scraped off. It is easily infected as the break in the skin covers a wide area.

An incision is a smooth cut by sharp instruments like knives, blades, or broken glass. Blood is likely to flow freely as blood vessels are often severed. It is not so liable to infection as other wounds as very little tissue around the injury is destroyed.

A laceration is an injury caused by, machinery, exploding shells, blunt instruments, or falls against angular surfaces wherein the flesh is rent or torn. Blood vessels are cut irregularly and may apt to bleed profusely of a large blood vessel is torn. It is very susceptible to infection as tissues at the edge of the wound are often destroyed and the dirt frequently driven into them cannot be cleansed automatically.

A puncture is a penetrating open wound that results when a nail, a bullet, splinter, needle, or some other sharp instrument enters deep into the flesh. It does not bleed very much except when a big blood vessel is injured. It is easily infected as it is hard to clean. There is danger of tetanus infection in a puncture wound. Internal organs may also be damaged by punctures. Pin pricks, for instance, have caused the death of many people. And yet we can hardly notice the blood escaping from the prick of a pin.

An avulsion is an open wound in which the tissue is torn completely off or left hanging like a flap. It may be caused by machinery, shooting, or animal bites. Any tissue (finger, toe, ear, or an entire limb) may be successfully re-attached if the part is taken with the victim to the hospital. Although wounds are common they incite certain dangers from which fatal consequences might arise. Two outstanding dangers are then possible entry of germs which might cause infection and even blood poisoning, and the loss of a large quantity of blood which might cause death. Extreme care, therefore, should be observed in e treatment of wounds. Do not be deceived by looks, especially by the sight. A small, innocent-looking cut might conceal a serious injury.

Bleeding From Arteries And Veins Wounds which bleed profusely, demand immediate attention. Profuse bleeding is an indication that an artery has been cut and the flow of blood must be checked at once; otherwise the victim will die of loss of blood. In large wounds where big blood vessels are cut, bleeding could be profuse. Quick action to control the bleeding is necessary. The flow of blood in the arteries is away from the heart, while in the veins, the flow is towards the heart.

Antiseptics Antiseptics are substances which prevent the growth of germs. There are many kinds on sale in the drug stores and every scout should be familiar with the most common ones. Povidone-Iodine solution is a reliable one. Your first aid kit should have a sufficient supply of this solution or some other kind for ready use. One thing to remember in connection to antiseptics is that they are for external use only – these solutions should never be used in the eye, the mouth, or on burns!

Dressing for Wounds You must always see to it that dressings for wounds are sterile or free from germs. The main function of a dressing is to cover a wound and protect it from further infection so it should extend an inch beyond the wound in all directions. It must be free from germs, therefore, if it is to realize this function. Sterilized cotton gauze in sealed packages is a regular item in all first aid kits and should be used whenever available. If no sterile gauze is at hand, however, select a clean piece of white cloth and boil it for five minutes or hold it over a fire until it turns brown. First Aid for Bleeding 1) Act quickly. Control the bleeding by applying direct pressure, with or without a dressings (depending on the situation). 2) If the situation allows it, always apply antiseptic in and around the wound and be sure it is already dry before putting on the dressing. Cover with sterile dressing. Put the dressing directly into the wound rather than sliding on it. 3) Hold in place with adhesive tape or bandage. If the first dressing becomes saturated with blood, add another dressing on top without removing the first. Once placed, a dressing should not be disturbed. 4) Keep injured person calm and relaxed. 5) And if the wound is located on the extremities and the bleeding does not stop, elevate extremity above the level of the heart. 6) You can also apply some pressure on pressure to control the bleeding points

7) Applying cold compress on the wound will help control bleeding. But it should be noted that you should not apply ice directly to the skin. Wrap the ice with a cloth or dressing before you place it above the skin. 8) If you tried all procedures and still the bleeding does not stop rush the victim to the nearest hospital.

First Aid Treatment for Cuts and Scratches 1) Wash your hands with soap and water before treating the wound. 2) Clean the skin around the wound with a sterile gauze, soap, and water. Then wash the wound with soap and running tap water until clean. 3) Apply mild antiseptic with sterile gauze on the wound and the skin surrounding it. 4) If using dry antiseptic, cover the wound with sterile gauze and keep it in place with a bandage. 5) You may also use adhesive antiseptic strips (band-aid) for minor scratches and cuts. 6) Watch out for signs of infection, such as reddening around the wound, red streaks radiating from the wound, swelling around the wound accompanied by chills and fevers. 7) If infection appears, call a doctor at once. Closing of Deep Cuts A new clean cut or wound will heal fast if both sides of the open skin are put together to remain closed. Close a deep cut only: 1) If the cut is very clean. Clean the cut well with sterile water and soap. If possible, pump it with sterile water from a syringe without a needle. Be sure that there is no dirt left hidden in the cut. Old, dirty or infected wounds should be left open. 2) If the age of the cut is less than twelve (12) hours. 3) If it's not possible to get the assistance of a health worker or physician to close the wound on the same day. 4) Dog, pig, and other animal bites should also be left open. Closing them may lead to the dangers of infection.

Burns and Scalds Injuries caused by heat are called burns. A burn caused by hot liquid or a hot moist vapor is called a scald. Major Burns and Scalds 1) Remove clothing of the victim except what sticks to the burned skin. Cut the cloth gently around the burn if it sticks. 2) Cover the burn with sterile dressing to keep air out, reduce pain and prevent infection. 3) Do not apply anything on the burn. 4) Burn and scalds are hurry cases. Call a doctor! If the burn covers a wide area and the victim is conscious, let him drink half a glass of the following solution every 15 minutes: 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of salt dissolved in a half-filled small pitcher of water. Stop if the victim vomits. Small Burns and Scalds 1) If the skin is not blistered, apply petrolatum or burn ointment, vaseline or mineral oil. 2) Cover with gauze pad and bandage lightly. 3) If the skin is blistered, cover the burn with sterile gauze to exclude air and prevent infection. Don't apply anything 4) Don't break the blisters. CAUTION: Small burns or scalds may be dangerous if large areas are involved. Call a doctor. Chemical Burns and Scalds 1) Wash off the chemical with plenty of water. 2) Treat burns caused by strong acids, first, by washing the burn with water and then applying warm solution of baking soda. 3) For burns caused by strong alkalies, wash with water, apply vinegar or boric acid solutions, and cover with burn ointment. First Degree Burns The skin usually turns red. Patient may feel localized pain. Sunburn is usually a first-degree burn when sunning is stopped in time. Keep the burn on cold water or cold compress until the pain is bearable or no pain at all. Then apply moist or dry dressing. Bandage loosely. Second Degree Burns More serious burn – Blisters usually appear. Prevent the blisters from breaking to avoid infection on wound. Place the injury in cool water until pain is bearable. Apply moist dressing, and bandage loosely. NEVER apply creams, ointments, or spray!

Third Degree Burns You will see burned skin and charred flesh in third degree burns. Victim may not feel any pain. NEVER remove any clothing that may be sticking to the flesh. NEVER apply creams ointment or sprays. Rush him to the nearest hospital! His life is in great danger! Sunburn Sunburn may occur even on a cloudy day. Even if the sun may not be visible, the rays filter through the clouds and may cause severe injury. Sunburn is generally a first or second degree burn, depending on the length of time the victim was exposed to the sun. If a big area of the patient's body is sunburnt, the patient may become quite ill from its effects and fever may develop. The best way to avoid sunburn is apply sun-block lotion. If this lotion is not available expose the body to the sun's rays gradually, exposing it for a short time on the first day and lengthening the period of exposure every day thereafter until a protective coat of tan is built up. Blisters The unbroken skin covering a blister is the best protection against infection. If a blister is likely to break, wash it and the surrounding area with water. Apply 2% iodine solution around the edge of the blister. With a sterilized needle, puncture the blister near the edge and wipe off the fluid with sterilized gauze. Cover the affected area with sterile dressing. If the blister has already broken, wash the affected area gently With soap and water and cover it with sterile dressing. Stings and Insect Bites l) Remove the sting by scraping or flicking it out with a dull blade, like the back of a knife, or you can even use your I.D. card. Avoid squeezing the stinger with tweezers or fingernails. 2) Apply cold water or a pack ice over and around the sting to relieve the pain. Calamine lotion will relieve itching. 3) In case the victim has been stung by a swarm of insects, soak him in a cool bath in which baking soda (one tablespoon over a quart of water) has been dissolved. 4) For persons who react violently to insect stings, i.e., allergies, get medical attention at once. Foreign Bodies in the Eye, Ear, Nose, and Throat Eye 1) Don't rub the eye. 2) Keep both eyes closed and let the tears flow to wash off the foreign body. 3) If this method fails, try to remove the foreign body with the corner of a piece of sterile gauze. 4) If the foreign body is embedded, NEVER try to pull it out. Call a doctor! 5) If the foreign body is under the eyelid, pull the lid up and remove the dirt with clean gauze or cotton.

Ear l) Leave the ear alone. 2) Don't try to remove the foreign body with wire, needle, pin, or any sharp material. 3) Call a doctor and rush the patient to the nearest hospital.

Nose 1) Blow one nostril gently while pressing on the other. 2) If this fails, try to sneeze. Sometimes sneezing helps expel the foreign body. 3) NEVER probe or attempt to remove foreign body, this might result to tissue damage. 4) Call a doctor and rush the patient to the nearest hospital.

Nosebleed Most nosebleeds are not serious and usually stop of their own accord in a short span of time.

When a person has nosebleed, calm him down and make him sit down with his head slightly leaning forward. Hold a gauze dressing or handkerchief against the nose to soak up the blood, and pinch the nostrils together. Do not make him blow through the nose as this will break the blood clot and re-open the cut. He should breathe through the mouth. Loosen his collar. You may also apply cold compress to the nose and face. If the bleeding continues after some time, insert a small plug of gauze inside the nostril from which the blood is coming out, and press firmly on the side of the nostril. Call a physician if this method will not check the bleeding altogether. Throat Sometimes, pieces of food, bone, coins, false teeth, and other objects get stuck in the throat or windpipe. It can cause death. l) If the foreign body can't be seen but the patient can breathe easily, call a doctor. 2) Don't try to remove the foreign body with your finger.

3) If the victim is choking nd cannot breathe, apply the Heimlich Manuever. Do the following: a. If the patient is conscious and you see the universal sign of choking (universal distress signal), approach the patient and ask. “Are you choking?” A patient with airway obstruction will not be able to speak but will be able to nod. b. Get behind him and wrap your arms around his waist. Place one hand closed tightly above the victim's navel or below the rib cage. Grasp it with your other hand and tighten quickly with an inward and upward thrust. Continue with up to five (5) abdominal trust and reassess the airway. Do this again and again until the object is removed or until the victim becomes unconscious. c. If the victim passed out or becomes unconscious, lay him face up and straddle over the patients thighs. With your hand on top of the other, place the heel of the bottom hand above the victim's navel and below his rib cage. Lock your elbows and press his abdomen with a quick downward and forward thrust. Repeat until the object is removed.

Practice these methods until you are sure you know how to do them.

Fainting Fainting is a “blacking out” because of hunger, fatigue, bad air, fear, bad news, sight of blood, and emotional shock. Signs and Symptoms of Fainting – Patient is pale, his forehead is covered with perspiration, pulse is weak and slow and his breathing is fast and shallow. Patient complains of dizziness. Unconsciousness follows and victims may suddenly fall to the ground.

1) Loosen all tight clothing. 2) Lay victim on back with head slightly lower. 3) Apply cold water to face and warmth (hot water bottles) to hands and feet. 4) Keep adequate supply of fresh air, rest, and quiet. 5) Use ammonia inhalants, smelling salts, or crushed herbal leaves like guava. 6) When victim revives, give stimulants. If lying down is not feasible, have patient sit down and keep head low between his knees to get the blood back to his brain. Shock By the term shock we refer to a condition of the body when its activities are greatly depressed as a result of injury or, sometimes, strong emotion. The patient feels faint (unconsciousness may even result), his pulse is weak and rapid, his face pale, and his skin moist and cold. Breathing is irregular. There may be nausea and vomiting. Shock follows most injuries. It may come immediately after an accident or sometimes later. It may be slight, lasting only a few seconds, or it may be so severe as to cause death. Immediate treatment may save a life, and will enable the patient to recover from his other injuries without much trouble.

In the prevention and treatment of shock, heat, position and stimulants are three valuable things to consider. A person suffering from shock loses heat very rapidly due to the poor circulation of blood. Loss of heat and exposure to cold make the patient worse.

One of the first things that you must do in shock cases is to keep the patient warm. Robes, coats, blankets, and other similar materials should be utilized to keep the patient warm. If chilling has set in apply external heat. Use hot water bags and bottles, or heated bricks, stones, or plates wrapped in one layer of cloth or paper or some other device for restoring warmth to the body. Avoid burning the patient by first testing the heat on your elbow or cheek for thirty seconds. If possible, keep him in a warm room. Avoid exposing him to a draft. Remember that there is lack of blood supply in the brain and heart of the patient, and stagnant blood in the blood vessels of the abdomen. Lay the patient flat on his back with the head low. Raise the foot of the bed, cot, stretcher or whatever he may be lying on at least 18 inches higher than the head. If he is lying on the ground or floor, raise his feet, legs and thighs. Do not make the patient sit up, unless he is suffering from chest injuries or nose bleeding. If there is serious injury on his head, do not raise his feet. If the patient is conscious, give him some stimulant. A teaspoonful of aromatic spirits of ammonia in half a glass of water is a good one. Repeat every 30 minutes as needed. Hot coffee and tea are also excellent stimulants. In severe cases, give the stimulant by spoon. Do not give more than one cupful at a time as this may cause vomiting. If the patient is unconscious, do not make him drink. Inhalation stimulants like ammonia ampule, aromatic spirits of ammonia on cotton or a handkerchief, and smelling salts, placed near his nose, should be used. When the patient is bleeding profusely, either internally or externally, do not give any stimulant. Do so only when the bleeding is checked. Do not give a stimulant also if the patient's skull is fractured, or when his face is red and his pulse strong, as in the case of sunstroke.

Shock is a serious condition in which the body functions are depressed, particularly the nervous system and the blood circulation. This condition is present to some extent in all cases of injuries and may prove fatal. Snake Bite Snake bites are dangerous. When a poisonous snake bites, it leaves two puncture marks on the skin showing where the fangs entered the flesh. These spots become dark colored, and the pain sets in immediately. Swelling follows and the patient may become unconscious. Nausea, sleepiness, shortness of breath are also some of the signs of snake bite. In first aid, the first thing to do is to calm the patient and re-move the poison which is just under the skin. Put a compression bandage two to four inches above the fang marks, tight enough to make the surface veins come out, but not too tight to shut off the deeper blood vessels. This is a compression bandage, not a tourniquet, so do not twist it. NEVER apply ice packs or cold cloths to the bite. Get medical help as soon as possible. Tell them that it is a snake bite and the kind of snake, if known. In desperate cases where medical help will be long delayed, do the step mentioned above and then paint a little antiseptic on the fang marks or wash them thoroughly with water. Then with the sharpest blade in your knife or a razor blade properly sterilized, make a cross-shaped cut in each fang mark. Avoid cutting any vein which you may see if the compression bandage is tight. The cuts should be 1/4 inch deep and 1/4 inch long.

Then apply suction to draw the poison out of the cuts and the flesh around them. Use your snake bite kit. If you have none, suck on the two cuts with your mouth (be sure that your mouth has no wound or cut), spit out the blood and poison, and suck again. Continue to suck and spit for half an hour. If the swelling moves up along the affected limb, move the compression bandage above it. Make another ring of cuts around the first two cuts and apply suction. Continue the suction in each cut for 15 minutes every hour until all the poison is out or the doctor arrives. Keep the other cuts moist with solution of salt water on gauze. Treat for shock, and give hot black coffee, tea, or hot water. Do not give alcoholic drinks. Keep the patient quiet and assure him that you are getting all the poison out so that he will be less frightened. Dog Bite Hydrophobia or rabies is a dangerous disease. It comes from the bites of animals, especially dogs and cats. In giving first aid to a person who has been bitten by an animal the first thing to do is to wash the wound and the skin around it very well with soap and water to remove the saliva. Control the bleeding. Apply antiseptic on the wound, allow it to dry and put on a sterile dressing. Then he should be taken to a doctor for anti-rabies treatment. If the animal is suspected of having rabies he should be captured for rabies observation. Fractures Any break in a bone is called a fracture. In fractures, there is localized pain, particularly when victim attempts to move. Swelling and often, deformity can be observed. The broken limbs cannot be used for action, loss of function is manifested.

Simple (Closed) Fracture

When a bone is broken but the adjacent skin surfaces remain intact. The patient would not want to move the injured part. Swelling may be observed. Compound (Open) Fracture

When a bone is broken and there is a wound in the adjacent tissues through which the broken ends of bone may or may not be protruding. Stop the bleeding and prevent infection. First Aid in Fractures Careful handling of the injured is very important. Improper handling may turn a simple fracture into a compound fracture. Splint the patient where he lies. Never transport a patient until he has been properly and completely splinted. Always keep the injured motionless but comfortable.

Upper Arm Bend arm at elbow and hold close to body. Tie a well-padded splint along side the upper arm, reaching from the shoulder to the elbow or below. Place forearm in sling. Tie arm to side of body with wide bandage. Elbow If arm is straight, apply a well-padded splint on the front side and hold in place with bandage or adhesive plaster strips. If elbow is bent, apply sling to elbow and bandage arm to body.

Forearm and Wrist

Apply two well padded splints, one from the elbow to the palm and finger tips on the front and another on the back of the forearm and hand. Hold splints in place with bandage or adhesive plaster. Dislocations There are injuries where the bones get out of joint. These are called dislocations. They can be treated like fractures. But do not attempt to correct a dislocation. Send for a physician. Splints Splints should be long enough to reach beyond the joint above and below the fracture and must always be padded. Wood splints are best and for padding, use cotton, or any soft cloth or garment. For binding splints, use roller bandage, triangular bandage, handkerchiefs, towels, garters, straps, suspenders, etc. Splints may also be made out of blankets, umbrellas, sticks, newspapers, etc.

Location of Fractures Skull – This is a hurry case. Handle the patient with extreme care. Suspect neck and spine injury. Immobilize the neck and the spine. Rush him to a hospital (Emergency Room). If scalp wound is present, apply sterilized dressing and cover with bandage. Broken Spine or Neck

This is also a hurry case. Do not move injured. Cover with blanket. Wait till physician arrives. Rush him to the nearest hospital. Do not move unless very necessary, and then only on rigid support like a door or board, the injured being carefully laid in a face down position. Entire body must be moved as a unit. Lower Jaw

Maintain open airway. Immobilize the lower jaw by a cervical collar or support it with triangular bandage running from around the chin to the top of the head. Hand or Finger

Apply well-padded splint to the front of the open hand extending from the middle of the forearm to beyond the fingertips. Hold with bandage and support with sling. If the fracture is on the finger, use the other fingers as splint. Collar Bones – Place pad in armpit. Push arm forward. Support arm in sling. Tie arm to side of body with strong bandage.

Ribs

Lay person on uninjured side, with head and chest elevated. Wrap wide bandage around chest, covering painful or tender area.

Pelvis (Hip)

Support with cushion under and around hips. Apply wide bandage, bed sheet or blanket around hips to give support. Tie both ankles and knees together with bandage. Do not move unless necessary. Treat as fracture of the spine or back. Thigh Grasp injured limb at the heel and pull gently so that it is brought in line with body. Apply two well- padded splints, a longer one outside extending from the armpit to the foot, the inner one from the crotch to the foot. Fasten splints with bandages around waist, hips, crotch, above and below knee, and at ankle. If only one splint is available, apply it to the outside. Place cushion between thighs and legs and tie two limbs together.

Leg – Gently grasp foot and pull in line with body and apply two board splints to the side of the injured leg, reaching from above the knee down to a point below the heel. If only one splint is available, apply to the outside of leg and bind both legs together. If no splint is available, tie injured limb with bandages to healthy limb.

Knee Cap – Straighten out the injured limb. Apply a splint on the back of the leg, reaching from high up on the thigh to heel. Bones of Foot – Remove shoe and stocking carefully. Cut away if necessary. Apply well padded splint to sole of foot, extending from the heel to a little beyond the toes. Tie in place. Sprains Sprains are temporary dislocations of joints, especially the wrist and the ankle. The bones are thrown out of place, but immediately spring back. Sprains are caused by the violent stretching or twisting of a joint when a person exerts much muscular effort, as when lifting heavy weights. The first thing to do in sprains is to raise the affected part. If it is in the wrist, put the forearms in a sling. If in the ankle make the patient lie down and put pillows or a stool under his leg. Then apply cold water compress or a bag filled with ice, or hold the injured part under a running faucet for a considerable time or as necessary.

When the ankle is sprained and the patient finds it necessary for him to walk to seek aid, he should bandage the sprained part before he attempts to walk. The bandage serves as a temporary support. It is always applied with the shoe on. Bandages Bandages are used to hold dressings, compresses, or splints in place. It controls bleeding by pressure when used with dressings. Never use a bandage directly on a wound – apply it over dressing. Bandages can also be used as slings to support broken or sprained arms. Triangular Bandages – To make a pair of triangular bandages, take a square piece of cloth, fold it diagonally, and cut it along the fold. For Scouts, a 36-inch square piece is recommended. A handy one would be the Scout neckerchief; which may be used folded instead of cutting it in two. The triangular bandage is used open or folded as a cravat.

Adhesive Tape Bandages – Adhesive tape is cloth coated on one side with an adhesive which causes it to stick to the skin or to itself.

The official first aid kit contains combinations of dressing and adhesive which come in sealed packages. These are very handy for small wounds, especially finger cuts. Remember, apply antiseptic to the wound before applying the dressing. Adhesive tape is not to be placed directly on a wound. Roller Bandages – Another type of bandage is the roller bandage. Roller bandages are strips of bleached or unbleached cotton cloth, one or more inches in width, rolled in paper wrapper. They are used mostly on fingers or toes. Using the Triangular Bandage From among these various types of bandages, the triangular bandage is the most popular. Its great advantage lies in the fact that a square or a three-cornered piece of cloth is easier to secure than roller bandage. Then, too, a Scout in uniform always has his neckerchief ready for immediate use as a triangular bandage. Another advantage of the triangular bandage is that it is simple. With constant practice, anyone can learn its application in a short time while it requires hours of tedious practice for him to be able to use a roller bandage skillfully. Study the illustrations of the different kinds of bandages in this section. You will note that the square knot is always used for tying the ends of each bandage. This knot is used for tying two things of even thickness. It does not slip nor jam and can easily be untied. Practice and master how to tie the square knot, and be sure to use it when tying the ends of every bandage you make. Moving an Injured Person Except in rare instances when first aid measures have been correctly and promptly given to an injured person, the transportation of the victim from the site of accident to the nearest hospital or clinic becomes less urgent and the trip should not be rushed. Guidelines In Transporting An Injured Person 1) Avoid movement of patient as much as possible while in transport; 2) Transport victim with utmost comfort.

3) A seriously injured person should not be moved except in extreme emergency. In cases of fractures of the back or neck, do not transport patient. Wait for a doctor. The slightest movement may cause the broken bone to cut into the spinal cord, thus killing the patient instantly or crippling him for life. Methods of Transporting Injured Persons

Walking Assists – A victim who has suffered minor injuries and feels weak, may be helped to walk. Bring his arm over your shoulder, holding his hand with one of yours and place your free arm around his waist. One-Man Carry – This is best done by carrying him pick-a-back. Bring your arms under the patient’s knees and grasp his hands over your chest.

Two-Man Carry – This is used when patient is unconscious. Bearers kneel on each side of the patient. Each grasps the other's wrist and rise from the ground with the patient.

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Four-Hand Carry – This is good method for first aiders to carry a conscious patient. The first-aiders face each other. Each bearer grasps his own right forearm just below the elbow, with his left hand. Then they lock hands by grasping with their free right hands the left forearm of the other just below the elbow The patient places his arms over bearer's shoulders.

Stretchers When a patient has to be moved for some distance, a stretcher should be used. A stretcher may be improvised out of light doors, a ladder or a gate. It should be padded with blankets, grass or straw.

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You can also use two poles, a few feet longer than the patient, and a blanket, robe, shelter-half, ground cloth or a strong sheet. Or, make holes in the bottom corners of two sacks and pass the poles through these. Two or three Scout shirts, sweaters, or coats, turned inside out and buttoned up (push the pole through the sleeves) can also be used. If you cannot find poles, a stretcher can be made out of a blanket. Lay the patient in the center of the blanket and roll the edges towards him. This requires at least two, and preferably three, bearers on each side. Whatever kind of stretcher you use, be sure it is tried out first whether it is strong enough to bear the weight of the patient. A collapsing stretcher may cause further injury to the patient. Loading the Patient On A Stretcher Utmost caution must be exercised in loading, carrying, and unloading an injured person from a stretcher. One person alone should give the orders. In loading an injured person into a stretcher, three bearers are necessary and a fourth is desirable. The following is the standard procedure in loading the patient into the stretcher: Have three bearers take position at the side of the patient opposite any serious injury that may be present. A fourth man should assist on the side opposite the middle bearer. The bearers kneel on their left knee on the patients injured side. One man takes position at the shoulder, one at the hips, and the third at the knees. The bearer at the shoulder puts one arm under the patient's head, neck and shoulder and his other arm under the upper part of the patient's back. The bearer at the knees places one arm under the patient's knees and his other arm under the ankles. The middle portion of the patient's body is borne by the other bearer. When everyone is ready, they all lift together, and for support, they use their right bended knees to hold up the patient. The fourth bearer then places the stretcher under the patient. Finally, the patient is gently lowered to the stretcher with all bearers acting in unison. The patient should be carried feet first. The only exception is when carrying a patient up a hill, stairs, or steep grades, when it is better to carry him head first. If unloading, the procedure is just the reverse of that described above.

Ropes and Knots Ropes How to fasten things together has always been a part of human knowledge ever since the early stages of civilization. For the purpose of fastening things, a number of materials have been used, such as vines, tree barks, branches, grass stalks, as well as strips of animal hides and leather. In modern times, the use of ropes is universal. In lumber yards, aboard ships, in camps and hikes, ropes are indispensable items of equipment. Indeed, the importance of ropes has so risen to eminence that their manufacture has become an important industry. Rope making today is among the most important industries in the Philippines. Rope made from abaca (commonly known as Manila hemp) is used all over the world.

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Rope Making The following steps occur in rope making: a few fibers twisted together to the right to form a yarn; then a few yarns twisted together to the left to form a strand. Three strands twisted together to the right to form a rope or hawser; hawsers twisted together to the left to form a cable. A one-inch rope may have as many as three hundred individual threads and the friction of each against the others gives holding strength to the rope. Every Scout should have a length of say a quarter inch cord for learning knot tying, for it can only be learned by actually tying knots. Whipping the Ends of the Rope The nature of rope is such that its ends will fray or separate and gradually unravel. It is therefore important to whip the ends of your rope. This is one of the sailor's first secrets. The idea is to bury the ends of the binding string under loops made from the same. After making several turns, the ends can be pulled tight under the turns and cut off.

SAILMAKER'S WHIPPING

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COMMON WHIPPING Parts of a Rope Before you go any further, there are a few terms in knot-tying which you must know. The standing part – This is the long end of the rope. Sometimes it is not used at all; sometimes it is the part around which the rope end is turned, as in making hitches. The end part (or running part) – is the short free end, which, by being interwoven with the standing part or the end of another rope, forms the hitch or knot. A bight – is formed by bending the rope, keeping the two parts parallel to each other. A loop – is made out of a bight by simply crossing the two parts.

You must understand that a rope always consists of the standing part and the end, and that all knots are formed by combining bights and loops in different ways. The square knot, for example, consists of two bights, the sheet bend of a bight and a loop, the clove hitch of two loops, the sheepshank of two bights and two loops, and so forth.

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Knots and How to Tie Them There is hardly a day in a person's life when he does not do some knot tying. When Father puts on his shoes, he ties his shoestrings together. When Mother wants to hang laundered clothes in the sunshine, she has to tie the clothesline. When Sister wraps a gift for a friend, she has to tie the package with a piece of string. Even Kid Brother has to hitch his stick horse to an improvised rail or post. Knot tying is a skill demanded of sailors, explorers, engineers, mechanics, and other people. Like them Scouts who live so much in the open and engage in a number of outdoor activities, must know how to tie knots. On that skill sometimes depends the life and safety of people.

Characteristics of a Good Knot Four things you expect of a good knot: 1) That it fits the purpose. 2) That it can be tied quickly. 3) That it will hold fast or in other words that you can depend upon it doing the job it is supposed to do. 4) That it can be easily untied. Tying the sheet bend, clove hitch, two half hitches, and bowline are shown in the following pages. Other useful knots are shown in the ensuing paragraphs. Even if they are not required for mastery, you must try to learn how to tie them for they will be useful to you in your Scouting career and after. SHEET BEND is one of the most important knots for joining two rope ends and is especially useful when the ropes are unequal in size.

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SLIPPERY SHEET BEND is a knot used in places where it may be necessary to untie two ropes suddenly.

Shown below is the WEAVER'S METHOD of tying the Sheet Bend. These knots must be snugged carefully before strain is applied.

The HALF HITCHES is a simple knot for tying a rope to a pole or a ring.

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CLOVE HITCH is used for attaching a rope to a post or rail. Passing around an object in one continuous direction. It puts almost no strain to the rope fibers.

SHEEPSHANK is a temporary method for shortening a long rope while DOGSHANK is a sheepshank with the eyes seized by passing the rope ends.

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The BOWLINE, sometimes referred to as a “rescue knot,” forms a loop that will not slip no matter how hard you pull on it. It is a useful knot for pulling out a person from out of the water or who have fallen off a cliff, a deep ravine, or a well.

The SQUARE KNOT is used in tying the ends of a bandage because it does not slip and it can easily be untied. It is also used to tie ropes of the same size.

The OVERHAND KNOT.

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The TIMBER HITCH is used for dragging timber and raising them over the ground or water. It is also used to force two timbers together in pioneering projects.

Lashings In camp, when you don't have the comforts and conveniences of home, such as tables, chairs, and beds, you will have to use your resourcefulness in making substitutes for these equipment. It becomes necessary especially if you plan to stay in camp for three or more days. How far you can make improvement for your comfort in camp is a test of your inventiveness and ability to do things for yourself or with the help of others.

HANDCOILING. In the left hand hold with thumb pointing to the bight. In the right hand hold with thumb pointing to the end.

To be able to make camp equipment, gadgets and furniture in the outdoor way, you will have to know how to make lashings, by which you tie sticks or poles together by using rope, twine, or cord.

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By lashing wood or bamboo poles together, you can make tables, kitchen racks, washstands, plastic seats for latrines, brooms, shoe racks, etc. You can also build signal towers and bridges across rivers and streams. Study and learn the different kinds of lashings as shown on the following pages. For tying poles that lead to rub against each other, use the Square Lashing; for poles that lead to spring apart from each other, use the Diagonal Lashing; for parallel poles, Shear Lashing; and for three poles to be used as a tripod the Figure of Eight or Tripod Lashing. Take your time when making a lashing. Never hurry. Make every lashing firm, neat, and tight.

SQUARE LASHING This is used whenever spars (poles to be tied together) lead to rub against each other. Start by tying a clove hitch around the upright spar immediately under the place where the horizontal spar crosses it. Twist the short end of the rope around the standing part then lay three turns around the upright or vertical and horizontal spars, always keeping the rope tight. In making these turns, bring the rope on the outside of the previous turn around the crosspiece and on the inside of the previous turn around the vertical spar. Then make two or three frapping turns between the spars in order to tighten the turns already laid. Strain the frapping turns as much as possible and end the turns with a clove hitch around the end of the crosspiece or horizontal spar. See to it that the clove hitch is snug and slide it close to the lashing. DIAGONAL LASHING Use this type of lashing to tie together two spars which tend to spring apart and do not touch anywhere they cross. Start it with a timber hitch around both spars and pull it tightly. Make three or four turns with the rope around the same fork of the poles and another three or four turns around the other fork. Make two frapping turns around the lashing at the place where the spars cross. Finish off with a clove hitch around the most convenient spar. SHEAR LASHING Use this for tying together parallel spars and for forming the support or shear legs of bridges. Start with a clove hitch around one of the spars, at an appropriate distance from the top. Then make seven or eight loose turns around the two spars. Make frapping turns between the spars and fasten rope with a clove hitch around the spar opposite the one on which you started. ROUND LASHING Use round lashing binding two spars into a long one, like putting up a flagpole. Start and end with a clove hitch. FIGURE OF EIGHT or TRIPOD LASHING Use this to lash three spars together to form a tripod. Start by laying the spars on the ground pointing in alternate directions. Tie a clove hitch or timber hitch around one end of the spar. Make seven or eight loose turns around the poles, passing the rope over and under. back and forth. Then make two loose frapping turns between each pair of spars and finish off with a clove hitch around the center spar. Hoist the tripod into place.

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CONTINUOUS LASHING Have sticks cut and ready long ones of the desired length, short ones of the size desired for the width of the finished article, and approximately of the same diameter. Mark or notch the long stocks at even intervals where the small sticks will be lashed to make the small sticks fit into place.

A Few Things to Lash COAT HANGER Select two sticks, as illustrated, one with a natural fork, and the other very smooth and slightly curved. Trim ends smoothly. For best results notch at joining point. Use square lashing.

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PICTURE on MIRROR FRAME Select four smooth twigs or branches. Trim neatly making them the desired size; Notch at joining points. Use square lashings, binding with string or fine cord for small frames.

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SHOE RACK Shoe rack is to facilitate sweeping ground keeping tent tidy, etc. Raise in back by small pegs.

SWIMMING AND WATER SAFETY

Considering that our country consists of 7,107 islands and our water territory is seven times larger than our land area – safety in, on, and about water depends on several factors. Ideally, every Scout who engages in any aquatic-related sport should know how to swim well. However, as more and more Filipino stake to the water in various kinds of activities, the percentage of good swimmers decreases alarmingly. Non-swimmers and novices by the thousands play in the water, fish, ski, and boat and even scuba dive. Inevitably, some drown. Statistics on double drowning reflect the sad fact that many non-swimming adult had drowned while trying to rescue a child, and many a youngster has overestimated his ability to help a friend in trouble in the water. The three major causes of drowning are, and always have been, failure to recognize hazardous conditions and practices, inability to get out of dangerous situations, and lack of knowledge of safe ways in which to aid drowning persons. It is in the hope of alleviating these problems that the BSP Aquatic Safety Program presents the information in this book. Learning How to Swim This floating position can be helpful to the beginner in learning about the buoyant effect of the water and it also can be a basic starting skill for the prone float. Since the jellyfish float employs a face down, relaxed, and suspended position, it is a fundamental skill for survival floating.

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JELLYFISH FLOAT From a standing position in about chest-deep water, the learner bends forward and places the hands comfortably on the thighs. He then takes a breath and bends further forward so that the face is submerged and the hands are slid down close to the ankles. If all this is done slowly and in a relaxed manner, the feet will usually float free of the bottom and the body will be floating with a portion of the rounded back showing above the water. As the skill is mastered, the arms and legs hang suspended and relaxed in this position. To regain footing, the learner slowly raises the head and upper body toward the surface, allowing the feet to settle on the bottom. Emphasis must be placed on moving slowly, and the learner should not attempt to stand until the feet are securely placed on the bottom and the body is balanced over them. A partner or the instructor should be standing by during the learning process to help the beginner gain confidence and to assist him in standing if assistance should be needed. To go from the jellyfish float to the prone float, learner slowly raises the arms forward and extends the legs backward until the body is in a fully extended prone position. Recovery is accomplished by drawing the knees under the body, pushing down with the arms and, when the body has shifted from the horizontal to the vertical straightening the legs, lifting the head, and coming to a standing position. Continued practice will enable the learner to take a comfortable, balanced, and relaxed prone position that will be a standard position for all later strokes that are performed lying on the front. A partner or the instructor should be facing the learner when practicing this skill.

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PRONE FLOAT Shallow water of a depth of from 2 to 2-1/2 feet is ideal for learning the prone float. Lying extended in a prone position and supported by having his hands on the bottom, the learner takes a breath, places the face in the water, and slowly lifts the hands from the bottom and extends the arms in front of the head. If the toes are still on the bottom, a gentle push will usually raise them toward the surface, allowing the Whole body to be suspended in a prone float position. The prone float may also be taught by having the learner stand in chest-deep water with arms extended, take a breath, place face in the water, and gently push from the bottom or the side of the pool into a prone float position. Recovery is accomplished by drawing the knees under the body, pushing down with the arms, and, when the body has shifted from the horizontal to the vertical, straightening the legs, lifting the head, and coming to a standing position. Use of a partner helps the beginner to gain confidence in the initial learning stage. The slight push from the side or the bottom may help the less buoyant learner to achieve the feel of the prone floating position.

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BACK FLOAT

This skill should be first attempted with either the instructor or a partner assisting. Standing in chest- deep water, the helper places his hands lightly under the learner's shoulder blades. The learner should submerge until the shoulders go just below the surface. Then he gently lies back in the water until the ears are submerged, arms are extended and relaxed along the sides, and the feet are extended. In many cases the heels will still be resting on the bottom, but most of the body weight will be supported by the later. Continued practice will enable the learner to perform skill without the aid of his partner or instructor. To assist the learner in recovering to the standing position, the partner can help by placing his hands at the learner's shoulder blades. The learner should drop the hips, bring the chin in-ward, draw the knees back, and let the arms reach backward and then scoop them forward. This maneuver will change the body position, enabling the learner to straighten the legs to the bottom and then finally to raise the head to regain standing position. The recovering to standing position can be described as that of a person reaching behind himself and pulling an imaginary armchair into position before attempting to straighten up and stand. The back float should be practiced until the learner can perform it unassisted in a relaxed and balanced position.

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The Crawl Holding Your Breath – With the face out of water, breathing is an instinctive and normal process. To breathe regularly while the face is in the water has to be taught and practiced many times before it becomes instinctive. It should be taught in easy stages with a great deal of practice at every lesson. The process involves breath holding with the face submerged, exhaling underwater, bobbing, opening the eyes under water, and, finally, rhythmic breathing, a combination of all these skills.

Breath holding that will lead into rhythmic breathing should be introduced early in the learner's experience and should continue to be a regular part of every practice session. The initial objective is to get the non-swimmer to submerge the face and head and to hold his breath comfortably while underwater. The first step is simply to take a normal breath, close the mouth, and slowly lower the head parallel to the water until at least the face and ears are submerged. When children are hesitant to take this step, the instructor can have them cup water in their hands and then wash and rinse their faces. Familiarity with the process in using a home wash-basin may help children overcome their initial reluctance. The submerging of the face and head skill should be repeated many times, and as soon as possible the number of seconds that the head stays submerged should be gradually increased. The next step is learning how to exhale in the water. Learners can practice by inhaling, compressing lips, and forcibly exhaling in a manner similar to blowing out a candle. This method of exhalation tends better control, stresses breathing out through the mouth, and keeps water from entering the mouth. While some air may be exhaled through the nose, emphasis should be on inhaling through the mouth.

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Games and walking races where the learners blow a Ping Pong ball or balloon in front of their mouths can help at this stage. The use of such graphic descriptions as blowing bubbles and blowing out the candle will prove helpful here. Learners can be paired off during practice to give added confidence, and after a few attempts the process can be repeated until the rhythmical inhalation and exhalation becomes easier and can be repeated many times. Rhythmic Breathing Rhythmic breathing is simply breathing in series or in a specific rhythm – inhaling through the mouth as the face is turned to the side and exhaling underwater after the face is turned downward. Adequate ventilation of the lungs at regular intervals is vital to continuous swimming, and breathing practice should be started early in the learning process and be continued at every opportunity. Standing in chest-deep water, the learner leans forward and places the side of the face in the water so that the ear is submerged. He then inhales quickly through the mouth, rotates the head to the face down position, and exhales. The breathing should be a continuous, rhythmic sequence. After the head has reached the face down position, the learner starts exhaling while he rotates the head back to its original position. He is then ready for another breath and to repeat the cycle. This rhythmic breathing should be practiced first on one side and then on the other. The learner will soon determine which is his natural breathing side.

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The aim is to get the learner to perfect the rhythmic cycle until he can continue for 5, 10, 30, 40 or even 50 times without stopping and still get adequate ventilation. Rhythmic breathing can be practiced While doing kicking drills in a bracketed position, while kicking with one arm extended or with both arms at the side, or synchronized with arm action. Many of the skills that the learner has been practicing from time to time of his first entry into the water have given him some feeling of the lifting effect of the water. The floating and body position skills should prove to the learner that water will support him with little or no effort. The majority of beginners initially believe that it is necessary to stroke continually with the arms and legs to keep from sinking. Every effort should be made to dispel this belief. Success in this regard can be accomplished by constant emphasis and practice of breath control, relaxation, and body position. As soon as the learner experiences the effect of the body's natural buoyancy, he is ready to start adding the stroking movements that can result in moving through the water as opposed to the effort expended toward trying to prevent sinking.

Glide – Kick Glide (Prone) For an individual who has mastered the prone float position, initial propulsion consists simply of adding a push by the feet from the bottom or the side of the pool. A glide along the surface follows as the learner holds his breath, keeping the face in the water. As momentum ends, the knees are brought up, the extended arms are pressed down, the legs are straightened to a position on the bottom, the head is now lifted, and the learner stands. Continued practice, with emphasis on longer breath holding and a more vigorous push-off, will result in a glide of several body lengths With ease. A face down head position and a good streamlined body position should be continually emphasized in the practice sessions.

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Flutter Kick (leg work) Before adding the leg stroke to the prone glide, the learner should have practiced the crawl kick by using a variety of drills and learning practice situations. These drill scan practiced sitting or lying on the deck with legs extended over the pool, supported by a partner, bracketed against the overflow or a kicking rail, or using the support of a tube or a kick board. The initial kick recommended is the crawl kick. Learners will have an initial tendency to thrash up and down with bent knees, but continued corrections on straightening the legs and trying in relaxed ankles will help to overcome this. In correcting an extremely bent knee of a learner, the instructor should watch for the fault of keeping the legs stiff. Also, learners will sometimes tend to have a very narrow or shallow kick. This fault can be corrected by having the learner move the legs up and down so that the knees pass each other slightly. When enough coordination is established and some thrust has been developed, the kick can be added to the prone glide. Prone Glide with Flutter Kick

The kick glide is done by starting with the prone and adding the kick as soon as the gliding momentum is underway. Practice distance can be lengthened by the learner's adding rhythmic breathing, using a kick board or an arm support. Without the use of an arm support, the kicking and breathing combination can be practiced by keeping both arms extended at the side or by keeping one arm extended and one arm at the side.

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Arm Pull Introduction (Stationary Arm-pull Practice) The arm action recommended for most beginners is the crawl stroke movement with the arms recovering out of water. In some cases, because of poor coordination or lack of sufficient strength, the underwater recovery may be taught. For teaching beginners, the crawl stroke arm action can be simplified. The hand enters the water approximately in front of the shoulder and is angled downward. The hand pulls and presses backward near the center line of the body to about the thigh. Without pause, the arm is lifted with the shoulder, letting the elbow bend, and the hand stays behind the elbow. The shoulder carries most of the action as the arm recovers over the water and with the hand below and outside of the elbow. The hand then enters first about in front of the shoulder and, after being extended forward and downward, is ready to start the full cycle again.

Emphasis should be placed on ease and relaxation in the recovery and a slow pull and press through the water until the learner gets the feel of the movement. The arm action can be practiced in standing depth water, with the learner being supported by a partner or the instructor, using a leg support, or adding the arm action only to the prone glide. Initially, the action of the learner while standing can be practiced using one arm only. In order for the desired body position to be maintained, the face should be in the water, and initial practice then is limited to a normal breath-holding period.

Combined Leg Work and Arm pull The entry hand slides forward and downward to the catch position. When this position is reached, the arm is fully extended, the opposite arm has almost completed its backward pressing action, and the inhalation is almost completed. From the catch position, the forward arm and hand start to pull backward toward the long axis center of the body. The elbow is keep higher than the hand and lower than the shoulder during propulsive movements. The opposite arm begins to recover when forward arm starts to pull.

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At the completion of the backward thrust of the arm on the breathing side, the e1bow is immediately lifted upward and forward out of the water as a continuation of the momentum established from the rounding off action of the hand. An easy, rolling motion of the body and the shoulders will facilitate the recovery movements of the arms and will contribute to effective propulsive movements. During this recovery action, the lower hand is pulling backward and the amount of bend in the elbow is increasing. When the lower arm and the hand are pressed back to a point just below and in front of the shoulder, the elbow achieves maximum bend. The palm is kept positioned so as to keep maximum pressure against the water during its entire backward push. The opposite arm is about halfway through its recovery. The forearm and wrist are relaxed and the elbow is higher than the hand, with the hand slightly outside the elbow and near the water. The lower arm begins to accelerate its pressing action backward toward the feet as the opposite arm completes its recovery. As the hand enters the water, the head and the body start rolling actions onto the side of the entry arm. Except for the inhalation, the arm actions as described above are then performed on the opposite side of the body.

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Breathing: Crawl Stroke Breathing may be performed in more than one way. Ideally, rhythmic breathing occurs on one side of the body only. The head begins to rotate slowly toward the arm on the breathing side as it starts its pulling action. The head continues to rotate until the mouth is clear of the water, and inhalation begins when the arm on the breathing side is about halfway through its pressing action. At the completion of this pressing action, the arm starts its recovery and the face rotates back into the water. Exhalation begins as the face enters the water, and is slow and continuous and is completed when the next breath is ready to be taken.

Ideally, one breath should be taken and exhaled during each complete stroke cycle. However, because of the difficulty in mastering rhythmic breathing, it is acceptable for the beginner swimmer to breathe at least every two to three strokes. A breath may also be taken by lifting the mouth just clear of the water as the forward extended arm begins to pull. As soon as a breath is taken, the face is placed back into the water and exhalation occurs as described for rotary rhythmic breathing. A disadvantage of this method of breathing is that lifting the head causes the hips and the legs to drop, which upsets good body position.

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Elementary Form of Diving

Sitting Position – In pools where there is an overflow trough the pool edge is 6 to 18 inches above the water surface, the sitting dive is usually introduced first.

The learner sits on the edge of the pool, knees spread wide, with the heels resting on the overflow trough (or some other suitable brace) and bends forward at the waist. Both arms are extended forward of the head with the upper arms pressing against the ears. The hands are together, with thumbs touching, and the eyes look under the palms and focus on the desired point of entry about 3 to 4 feet from the pool edge. When ready, the diver takes a breath and begins to roll in. As the balance is lost, the diver pushes the body forward into a streaming prone glide position. The body enters the water at a slight angle with the hands entering first, followed by the head with the eyes closed, and then the rest of the body. When entirely in the water, the learners raises the head and the arms, opens the eyes, and angles back to the surface. Repeated efforts will add confidence, allowing the learner to go deeper and hold the glide position longer before surfacing. Emphasize that the eyes close just before the entry for all head first entries and that they open when the forward momentum of the body has almost stopped. If there is no overflow trough present and if the pool edge is nearly at water level, a head first roll in can be performed from its sitting position. In this case, the body will be almost completely submerged before the legs are extended by pressing slightly against the pool wall with the feet.

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Kneeling Position – The learner kneels on one knee with the toes of the other foot gripping the pool edge. Again, the arms at extended forward of the head with the upper arms pressing against the ears. With the eyes focused on the desired entry point, the learner leans forward and inside of the pushing leg and begins to roll toward the water. When the balance is lost, the student pushes against the poolside with he contact foot. Upon entering the water, the body straightens and both legs fully extend to achieve the prone glide position. Some of the same faults may occur as in the sitting position. Correct these faults through instruction and practice.

The term deep water, which appears in the following sections on diving, is defined as being a minimum of nine feet. In the tip-in dive, the learner assumes the proper head and arm position while balanced primarily on one leg with the knee bent and the toes curled over the edge of the diving surface. The other leg is lifted to the rear as the body leans forward. It continues to be lifted during the dive. When the balance is lost, the learner pushes off with the contact the contact foot and the leg is then raised to join the other leg. The body is straightened following the entry and a glide is taken underwater before the ascent begins. A correctly performed tip-in dive will result in a more vertical entry. This dive, if used as a progression, must be practiced and learned in deep water.

Standing Position – From the standing position, the student bends forward slightly from the waist and bends the knees. As the body leans forward and the balance is lost, the feet push off and the legs straighten. The body follows the path of an arc into the water. Following the entry, a glide is taken underwater. Practice in deep water. Stress keeping the head down during the flight through the air, keeping the arms extended forward of the head until the glide underwater is completed, pushing off with the feet, straightening the legs, and pointing the toes.

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PRACTICE DISTANCE FOR ENDURANCE ELEMENTARY BACKSTROKE This stroke will enable you to swim on your back for great distances without becoming tired. It is one of the easiest strokes to learn and do and the best all around stroke when you are on your back. It is excellent for survival swimming. Leg Action Lie on your back, extend your legs, and keep your feet together. Keep thighs straight and bend your knees so your heels drop down and move toward your hips. When your heels are directly below your knees, turn your feet outward and separate your feet and legs. Now, without stopping, push your feet down and back in a circular motion until they come together. This is the breaststroke kick as used in the elementary backstroke. It is sometimes called the whip kick.

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Arm Action Do a back glide to get into position, with arms extended along the sides of your body. Slowly bring the hands up underwater, over the front of the body to the chest, with fingertips brushing your ribs. Then stretch your arms outward at shoulder length. Without stopping, sweep your slightly cupped hands parallel to the surface in a wider arc until they return to the starting position at your sides. Then let yourself glide.

Remember to keep your hands underwater at all times. The elbows should stay fairly close to the sides as the hands go up to avoid resistance. During the arm stroke, pull your chin toward your chest to prevent water from splashing over your face. Combined stroke You will find the combined movements easy to learn. Start with feet together and hands at the sides. Move your hands up at the same time as you drop your heels. As you extend your arms, turn your toes outward. Now, sweep your hands to your sides and bring your feet together in a circular motion. Make your movements continuous, resting only at the end of the stroke to permit a long glide. Keep your head fairly well back, with your ears in the water. Don't be in a hurry, and be sure to relax. SIDE STROKE This is a good all-around stroke for long distance swims and life saving rescues. Useful for rescue carries like cross chest carry, armpit pull carry, and collar carry. Leg Action Lie on your side, whichever side is the more natural. Start with your feet together, bend your knees, and move your heels toward your hips. When they are up as far as is comfortable, separate your feet, causing your top leg to move forward and the bottom one backward. After they are separated as far as possible, straighten your legs and snap them together form this spread position as if you were closing a pair of scissors. Be sure to stop your feet as they come together. This is called the scissors kick.

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Arm Action

Lying on your side with one ear in the water, extend the underarm ahead of you along the surface of the water and the top arm alongside the top leg. On beginning the stroke, cup the lower hand slightly, as if grasping a handful of water, and sweep the hand alongside the body. Here it meets the other hand which in the meantime has been slowly brought up in front of the chest, with the hand moving edgewise in the water to lessen resistance. At the meeting position, the hand which has just come up in front of the chest is cupped and then pushes on down along the body to the top of the upper thigh. While this latter motion is being carried out, the lower arm is returning to its extended position, moving edgewise through the water. This ending and starting position is then held during the glide portion of the stroke. Combined Stroke Push or glide into a position on your side, the lower ear in the water, feet together, the lower arm extended ahead and the upper arm resting on the top leg. Start to move the arms and legs at the same time, drawing up the heel while pulling with the lower arm. When the hands meet in front of the chest, the feet should begin separating. Without stopping, continue to move the arms and snap the feet out and together in a scissoring motion. Rest for one or two counts and repeat the stroke. BREAST STROKE This stroke is valuable when swimming long distances, through surf, or through debris strewn water. It may even be used as an approach stroke for swimming rescues. Leg Action Lie in a face down position, with legs together, fully extended. Draw the heels up toward the hips and separate the knees about the width of the hips, with the heels a little wider. When the knees are drawn up just beneath the hips, turn the feet outward and move the feet to the sides until they are beyond the width of the hips. Without stopping, press the feet back down, making a circle until the feet return to their starting position.

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Arm Action Start face down, with arms extended, palms down, and hands together. Press palms outward and back and slightly downward until the hands are in line with the shoulders. Bring the elbows to the sides and the forearms and hands under the chest and neck. Without stopping, extend the hands forward, beneath the surface, to starting position. Hold this position for the glide. Combined Stroke Start with arms extended forward and legs straight. The hands begin pulling to begin the stroke. After the hands have pulled a few inches, the legs begin their motion and the head begins to lift for the breath. As the legs move through the power part of the kick, the arms are returned forward to the extended glide position. Inhale when the mouth lifts clear of the water, with the hands pressing down and back. The head should be back down in the water with the neck straight as the power is exerted by the kick. If you want to talk with your buddy or watch something ahead, you can keep your head up as you swim, but this reduces the glide and makes the stroke much more tiring.

The eight-Point Swim Defense Plan

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To ensure safety while swimming, defensive measures are observed by Boy Scouts in order to prevent Water accidents: 1) Medical Examination – To make sure that every Scout is physically ﬁt to undertake the vigorous activity that is swimming. 2) Trained Supervisor – In the person of an adult leader. He must have water safety training or trained assistants under his direction. 3) Safe Swimming Area – Identify the places where we go for swimming like swimming pool, lakes, rivers, and beaches. The area has been examined and the bottom should be free from rocks, stumps, etc. This is divided into three sections and has a gentle slope, namely: not more than 3 1/2 feet for new swimmers, just overhead deep for beginners, and deep water for swimmers. 4) Lifeguards – Old Scouts who are good swimmers stand ashore, ready with a life line. 5) Lookout – Stands at a point whereby he can watch all swimmers. 6) Ability Groups – Scouts are divided into 3 groups; those who are non-swimmers and are just learning, beginners who have swum fifty feet, and swimmers who can float and have made more than 300 feet. These ability groups stay in their sections during the swim. 7) Buddy Plan – Each Scout has a partner of the same swimming ability. These two check in and out together and while in the water keeps within ten feet of each other. When the buddy signal is sounded, they grasp each other's hand and hold it high to enable the lookout to check the number of buddy teams. 8) Discipline – The supervisor sees; to it that rules are followed to give a chance for everybody to have a good time.

ELEMENTARY RESCUE SKILLS A smart Scout always follows the order of methods in life saving: Reach, Throw, Row, and Go! Do not attempt a swimming rescue or a “go” rescue when a reaching assist is possible. Study and learn from these methods.

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REACHING ASSISTS

In a reaching rescue, the rescuer lies flat on the deck of the pool or on a pier, with body anchored and securely braced, and extends a hand to the victim. The rescuer grasps the victim's wrist from above and then draws the victim slowly and carefully to safety. If the victim is beyond arm's reach from the lying position, the rescuer can quickly slip into the water and, while firmly hanging onto a support with one hand, reach our with a free hand and pull the victim to safety. If the victim is beyond arm's reach in the water, the rescuers legs may be extended to the victim, while the rescuer maintains a firm grasp on the pool ladder, overflow trough, piling etc. While attempting a reaching rescue, the rescuer should keep talking in an effort to calm and instruct the victim. Improvised Equipment for Reaching Rescues When the victim is beyond arm's reach or body extension, the rescuer may use a towel or an item of clothing such as a belt, shirt, or coat. Other readily available items that can be used for extending are a paddle, an oar, a pole, or a branch. Shepherd's Crook – The shepherd's crook is a long, light, aluminum pole with a blunted hook that is large enough to encircle a person's body. It is usually hung on a rack or on hook at a convenient location at a point where it is likely to be needed The hook end can be quickly placed around the victim's chest, under the armpits, and is especially useful when a victim is unconscious or unable to grasp an extended rescue device. The rescuer keeps firmly braced and slowly pulls the victim to safety. Wading Assist – When a victim is beyond the extended reach, a human chain may be used if several people are present. The rescuers enter the water and form chain, with each grasping the wrist of the person on either side in a wrist to wrist grip and with every other rescuer facing in the same direction. The chain is lengthened by the individuals' extending their arms as they wade out. When the victim is

131 contacted, the chain is drawn back to shore by each person in turn, starting by having the anchor person nearest shore pull the next person in the chain to him.

In current or rushing streams, the human chain should be formed on shore, and after the chain enters the water, the lightest person generally should be the one farthest out in the water. A lone wader may advance into the water only to about chest depth with comparative safety. The rescuer should lean back shoreward before reaching down from above to grasp the victim. In deep waters, the rescuer must guard against being pulled out before starting to pull in the victim. As in reaching assists, extending a pole, branch, or article of clothing would be a safer method of assisting the victim. Use of Free-Floating Support The wader may avoid personal contact in making an assist by using a plank, kick board, buoyant cushion, or other similar buoyant object. The rescuer can then wade to a point near the victim but still remain safe to that the floating object can be pushed to reach the victim. The victim can then be encouraged to hang onto the object and kick toward safety. THROWING ASSISTS Heaving Line – A coiled length of line can be hung conveniently in place at swimming areas and makes an excellent rescue device. Before the line is thrown, one end of it should be looped around one of the rescuer's wrists or be secured by being stepped on with the forward foot. The coiled line is hung over the palm of the hand, and this hand is extended forward at waist level. The coil should be split so that about half of the coil is in each hand. This action gives the coil in the throwing hand sufficient weight so that it can be thrown with some accuracy. The coil in the throwing hand is thrown in an underhand motion, and the extended line should fall just beyond the shoulder of the victim and within reach of the victim's outstretched hands. The palm of the non-throwing hand is kept open to allow the coil to run freely.

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A heaving line can be thrown with better accuracy if it is weighted. The weight should be attached to the end that is thrown and preferably should be buoyant. A monkey fist makes a suitable weighted device. Heaving Jug – A suitable piece of rescue equipment can be made from a gallon plastic container, to which has been added about 1/2 inch of water. The container can be attached to a length of line, and the container and coil of line can be hung conveniently in place at swimming areas. Before the equipment is thrown, the rescuer should secure the non-throwing end either with a loop around the wrist or by placing the forward foot on the palm of one hand, and the throw is made by grasping the handle of the jug and releasing it at the forward end of a pendulum swing. Getting a firm grasp on the buoyant jug, the victim can be hauled in hand over hand. Care should be taken to pull fast enough to keep the victim's head above water but smoothly enough so that the jug is not jerked from the victim's grasp.

Ring Buoy and Line – A ring buoy with line attached is available at many swimming areas and can be a valuable piece of rescue equipment. The ring buoy for heaving purposes should weigh about 21/2 pounds and should be made of a buoyant material such as cork, kapok, foam rubber, or solid plastic. Attached should be 50 feet of 1/4-inch manila or polyethylene line. The other end of the line should have a wooden or plastic lemon or a wrist loop. The ring buoy should be hung where it will not be blown off the hook on which it rests and should be positioned at a height where anybody can easily seize both it and the coil of line hung directly below it.

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The rescuer should hold the ring buoy with the throwing hand grasping over and down on the side farthest from the body, fingers holding the bottom side directly opposite where the line is attached. The foot farthest from the buoy is placed forward, across the end of its line in front of the lemon. The coiled line hangs over the attended and open non-throwing hand so that the line pays off and over the fingertips. The throw is normally an underhand toss, with the buoy aimed just beyond the victim. After the victim has a firm grasp on the buoy or grab line, the rescuer, using a steady pull, hauls the victim to safety, being careful not to jerk the buoy out of the victim's grip. In a wind, the throw should be to windward, not in a direct line to the victim, so that the drift will bring the buoy to the victim's reach. If the throw is inaccurate, the line may be pulled in to the hand that held the coiled line. The rescuer should be sideways to the line in the water. The throwing hand should grasp the line, fingers down, on the far side of the line, with the little finger toward the buoy. With the rescuer alternately pulling the line to the other hand and sliding out to get more line, recoiling may be done in orderly fashion just as quickly as by pulling in the line with both hands. The next throw can then be made with less possibility of fouling the line. If distance, inaccuracy, or the prevailing condition of the wind places the buoy out of reach of the victim, the rescuer must quickly decide what alternatives exists. If the thrower is a non-swimmer or a poor swimmer, there is little choice other than to draw in the line and try again. If, however, the rescuer should be a capable swimmer or has had some lifesaving training, the safest alternative is to swim out to the victim with the buoy. When within arm's reach of the victim, the rescuer should then push the buoy to the victim. After the victim has a firm grasp on the buoy, the rescuer can tow the victim to safety by grasping the attached line well out of the victim's reach. Talking and giving instructions to the victim will usually help to keep the individual calm and under control.

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ROWING ASSISTS

If you see a person needing assistance too far from shore for a reaching or throwing rescue then use a boat if one is available. A boat is generally faster than swimming and far safer. The boat will provide complete support, and you can begin artificial resuscitation in the boat or even while hanging on the side of the boat. if needed. Do not bypass the use of a boat for a rescue just because you may not know how to row or sail by yourself. In a life or death situation, correct form is important only because it allows you to proceed rapidly with the least waste of energy. But if you have difficulty reaching a victim by what you think is the correct way, forget about looks. Get in front of the boat and paddle, stroking first rowboats, canoes, small powerboats, and ever: small sailboats if the sail is down. It will allow you to make headway in a wind when you might otherwise be blown off course.

SWIMMING ASSISTS Some fundamental swimming skills are necessary before anyone can attempt a water rescue. Absolutely essential to the potential rescuer are the skills of treading water, survival floating, ability to disrobe in the water if necessary (plus the knowledge not to disrobe if the water is cold), and comfortable mobility in the water. Without these fundamental skills, a potential rescuer is only too likely to become, with the original victim, a double-drowning statistic. If an untrained person can swim comfortably and execute the other skills mentioned, he may then attempt simple rescues that involve swimming and use of equipment but do not require the rescuer to support or carry a victim through the water. Modern rescue technique dictates that it is best that you always carry equipment or any floating device when attempting a swimming rescue. Equipment that is lightweight and buoyant is best – a ring buoy, an inner tube, or an air mattress or even an empty water jug. Important things to remember are as follows: 1) Always watch on the victim as you approach. Fix your eyes on victim, especially if the accident happened on the seas.

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2) Keep the equipment between you and the victim. 3) Keep calm. And calm the victim by talking to him if you can. 4) Once the victim has grasped the equipment, slowly pull him to shore. 5) If the victim panics and climbs across the device towards you, release the equipment and swim away. Do not let the victim grab you. A novice swimmer can make a good, safe rescue by taking a ring buoy to the victim, while an assistant on shore retains one end of the line and then pulls both rescuer and victim to shore.

Keep your eyes on the victim as you approach. Keep the equipment between you and the victim. Once the victim has grasped the equipment, slowly pull him into shore. If the victim panics and swims across the device toward you, release the equipment and swim away.

The unconscious victim may be towed ashore by utilizing one of the tows illustrated above: the hair carry, the collar tow, or the wrist tow.

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CROSS-CHEST CARRY

CHIN CARRY

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REACH • THROW • ROW • GO

FINDING DIRECTIONS Determining Directions with A Compass Long, long ago, our forefathers sailed the seas and roamed throughout the land with only the sun and the stars to give them direction. These heavy bodies, however, were not always visible. There were times when clouds hid them from view. Thus on cloudy days and nights, our ancestors were deprived of their natural guides. The invention of the compass has made things easier for travelers today. The compass is an instrument that gives the directions. No matter what the time is or what the weather is, people can find the direction accurately with it. It is used when following a trail map or making one and when laying out plots of land.

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There are two kinds of compasses in common use. One is called the Needle Compass, and the other, the Dial Compass. As its name suggests, the needle compass has a needle which always points to the magnetic North. The pathfinder compass is a very good example of it. The dial compass has no needle but its zero or N marking, or an arrow, continually points to the same direction. A Scout should be familiar with both kinds. It is well to remember when using a compass that there is a slight difference between the true or geographic North and the magnetic north indicated in the compass. This variation is caused by the rotation of the earth on its axis. This movement creates a magnetic attraction centered in a magnetic north pole, which is about 1,400 miles (or about 2,253 kilometers) away from the real or geographic North Pole, in the northern most point of North America, called the Boothia Peninsula. The compass is sensitive to magnetic attraction and its needle always points to the magnetic North, which is not the true North at all. For our guidance, the Bureau of Coast and Geodetic Survey prepared a chart showing the variations or declinations of the compass in the Philippines. Study this chart on the following page. Note the broken lines across the map. They are marked 0°, 1°E, and 2°E, indicating by them the degree of difference between the magnetic North and the true North in different parts of the Philippines. If your place is found along the 0° line, the magnetic North indicated in the compass and the true North are the same. If it is along the 1°E or 2°E line, the true North is one or two degrees east of the magnetic north pole, at 359° or 358° of the compass. When you desire to get exact bearings, deduct all easterly declinations from 360° (North) to get the true North. In Northern Mindanao where the declination is 2° East, for instance, the true North is 358° of the compass (360° - 2° = 358°). For westerly declinations, add the declination figure to 000° (or 360°). Thus, the true North in the southern part of Formosa, which is on the 1° West line, is at 1° of the compass (000° + 001°).

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You are already familiar with the eight principal points of the compass – North, Northeast, East, Southeast, South, Southwest, West, and Northwest since you studied them in the primary grades. The compass gives these and other points. It also gives direction in terms of degrees. In the compass dial there are 360 degrees just as there are 360 degrees in the circle of the earth's surface. Each degree, therefore, indicates an exact position of anything on earth. Indicating direction by degrees is more accurate than doing so by points.

COMPASS VARIATIONS IN THE PHILIPPINES

A direction expressed in terms of degrees is called a Magnetic Azimuth Direction. Learn to express direction in this manner by getting the degree equivalents of the principal points, as North is 000° or 360°; East, 090°; etc. A chart illustrating the eight principal points of the compass and their equivalents in degrees is found elsewhere in this section. Degree bearings are always expressed in three figures to prevent mistakes: thus 045°, not 45°; or 007°, not 7°.

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Because the compass is sensitive to magnetic attraction, do not use it when you are near railroad tracks or some other steel structures as the needle will be attracted by the iron or steel and will not point to the magnetic North accurately. Taking Degree Readings You have already learned why positions or directions are often expressed in degrees. Because of; its importance, you must learn how to take degree readings on at compass. Let us suppose that you want to take magnetic azimuth 120. Set your compass properly so that the arrow or needle will point exactly to magnetic North. Then find 120 degrees on the compass face. Sight along an imaginary line running through the center of the compass and the 20 degree mark. Pick out a landmark such as a tree, a house, or a boulder. That landmark will be in the direction of 120° from where you are. In your travels, there are times when you cannot walk in a straight line. You have to turn or detour around trees, rivers and other obstacles. If you are following a compass course, you are liable to get off your bearings. It will be necessary for you to take a back degree reading on your starting point to check your course. To do this, remember the magnetic azimuth direction you are following. If it is less than 180°, add 180° to it. If it is more, subtract 180°. Let us say that you are taking magnetic azimuth direction 120. Following the above rule, we add 120° to 180°. The back reading is 300 degrees. Set your compass properly as you were advised in the beginning. Then sight back on your starting point in the same manner as you sighted your first landmark. If your starting place is 300 degrees from where you are, you are on the right course. If it is not, walk to the left or to the right until your starting point is exactly at 300 degrees.

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Determine the Length of Your Step First of all, lay out a 100-meter course by using a tape measure, a meter stick, or a measured piece of rope. Or, for the sake of convenience and accuracy, you can make use of the athletic track in your school which is, perhaps, already marked out. You can lay out your course in terms of feet, but it is more convenient to use the metric system of measurement. Walk over the course four times, counting your steps as you go. Remember: walk over the course. This means that you do not have to take unnecessarily long steps or, on the other hand. foreshorten your steps. Just follow your ordinary way of walking. Then afterwards, find out the average number of steps that it took you to cover each course. This is done by adding the number of steps that you took each time to cover the 100-meter course, then dividing the sum by four because you covered the equivalent of four 100-meter courses. Then to get the length of your average step, divide 100 by the average number of steps taken to cover the 100-meter course. For example, you obtained the following figures from the first to the fourth time you covered the course: 135, 140, 142, 138. The sum is 555. You divide this then by four and you get 138 steps per course. If it took you an average of 138 steps to walk 100 meters, the length of your average step is 100 divided by 138 steps, or 0.72 meter. Another point you ought to remember also is to compare immediately the number of steps you made to cover the first and the second courses. In this way you will be saved from unnecessary over exertion because, through an error in counting maybe, you might count only 110 steps to cover the first 100 meters, and on the second make 180 steps or more. The average pace does not vary a great deal no matter how tall or how short you are. Well, then, after you have found the length of your average step, or your pace, remember it for it will be important when you follow a map or measure distances. Incidentally, learn to distinguish a pace from a stride. A pace is the same as a step. A stride is the same as two steps.

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Walking a Course and Making Three Compass Degree Readings Below is an illustration of a common course such as you might walk, which you would have to take three compass degree readings and measure the distances with your step. Drive a stake into the ground to mark your starting point. Mark out with stakes also all successive spots whenever you have covered the allotted distances and taken new compass degree readings. You will be told to go, for example: 100 degrees for 120 meters; then 195 degrees for 20 meters; and then 300 degrees for 115 meters for the last leg of your course.

At the start of each leg of the course, the first thing to do is to set your compass for the required degree reading. After that has been accomplished, the next thing to do is to find or spot a landmark on the required compass degree reading. Then walk toward that landmark, keeping in mind the required number of steps it will take you to cover the given distance. You must know beforehand how many steps you will need to take to cover the distance. In the first leg of your course, the distance is 120 meters. If your average step is 0.72 meter, you will have to walk 166.7 steps. For the second leg of the course you will cover the distance by walking 111.1 steps more or less, and so on. Laying out and Staking a One-Hectare Tract of Land To lay out and stake a one-hectare tract of land is exactly like laying out a compass course. You will be employing the same principles, like covering a given distance with your average step and taking a compass degree reading to mark out each leg of your course. As in this instance you are supposed to lay out a tract of land in terms of hectares, it is well to remember that you will be dealing with a figure that is rectangular or square in shape, and that its area is expressed in square meters. That is to say that the area is equivalent to the product of the length and the width. Now, a hectare is 10,000 square meters. If you want to fix the distance of one side at 50 meters, to find the length of the other side you will have to divide 10,000 by 50. The answer is 200. Thus the tract would be 50 meters wide and 200 meters long. If you want the length to be 100 meters, the width will be 100 meters. In other words, after fixing the dimension in meters one side, divide 10,000 by that figure and you will get the dimension of the other.

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Well, then, let us suppose that your tract is going to be 50 meters by 200 meters. Find out now how many steps it will take you to walk 50 meters and then 200 meters. In order to do that, you will have to divide 50 meters by the length of your average step. If it is 0.72 meter, the answer is 69.4 steps. How many steps will it take you to cover 200 meters? Figure it out the same way. Divide 200 meters by 0.72 and you get 277.7. This will give the number of steps you will need to cover the other side of your one hectare tract. Now you are all ready to lay out the tract. The very first thing to do is to drive a stake into the ground to mark your starting point, or if there is a prominent object around, say, a tree or a big rock, mark it distinctly. Then take a degree reading along the one side that you have decided upon. Write down that degree reading. Let us suppose it is 310 degrees. The next thing to do is to walk 69.4 steps along the first side to measure out the distance. Drive a stake into the ground at one end of the side. As the tract is rectangular in form, each of its four angles has 90 degrees. So add 90 degrees to the preceding one when taking the bearing of each side. Now take a compass degree reading of 40 degrees (310 degrees + 90 degrees = 400 degrees or 40 degrees, as there are only 360 degrees in a circle), and select a landmark in that direction. Then Walk 277.7 steps toward a landmark in that direction and then drive a stake into the ground at the end. Again take a degree reading of 130 degrees (40 degrees + 90 degrees). Find a landmark in that direction and walk toward it exactly the same distance that you walked on the first leg (69.4 steps). Then drive a stake into the ground at the end. A line from this stake to the starting point will be the fourth side of the track. This line should be in a direction of 220-degrees, and the distance should be the same as that of the second side There you are, you have just laid a one hectare tract of land through your knowledge of compass reading and measuring. Determining Directions without a Compass Here's one skill that people learn easily and as easily forget until something happens to them and their very life depends upon such skill: knowing how to find directions without using a compass. When you go on hiking or camping trips with your Patrol or Troop, you will find that having this skill is most useful.

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You can actually use the sun, the stars, a watch, and moss on trees to find out where east, west, north and south are. For example, since you know already that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west, when you face the rising sun and extend your two arms to your sides, your right hand points to the south and your left hand to the north. The other methods are described below.

Sun-Staff Method

Get a staff or a long pole. Post it in the ground directly under the sun in the morning. Then draw a circle on the ground with the staff as central point and the length of the staff's shadow as its radius. Use a string loosely tied around the staff with the other end tied to a small stick to draw the circle. Drive a stick where the tip of the staff's shadow falls. As the sun climbs higher in the sky, the shadow of the staff grows shorter. In the afternoon, the shadow will again grow longer. When the afternoon shadow again touches the circle. mark the touching point and drive in another stick. Draw a line from this point to the point where you placed the sticks in the morning. The halfway point between the two sticks is the true North of the staff. Draw a line on the ground or lay a pole from the bottom of your staff to the halfway point and you will have your rough North-South direction.

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Sun-Watch Method

Using a watch and the sun, you can find North. Lay the watch flat on the ground. Place a matchstick upright at the edge of the watch so that the shadow of the stick falls upon the hour hand which should point directly to the sun. With an imaginary line, divide into two the angle formed between the hour hand and hour twelve. Between six o'clock in morning and six o'clock in the afternoon, this imaginary line will point to the true South and the opposite, to the true North. If you now draw a line on the ground, lay a pole or stretch a string from the center of the watch following the imaginary line, you will have the true North- South direction.

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Finding North by the North Star From the earliest days, people observed that one star stayed in the same place, while the others moved in a circle across the sky. Thus, people came to depend upon this star, called the North or Pole Star, to guide them in their travels. This star shows the true North as it is almost over the northern axis of the earth. To locate the North Star, first find the Big Dipper or Ursa Major which is formed by seven stars with four stars forming the bowl and the other three the handle. Use the Pointers, the two stars of the bowl farthest from the “handle” to guide you to the North Star or Polaris which lies on the imaginary straight line about five times the distance between the two pointer stars. North lies at the horizon directly under the North Star or Pole Star.

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To find the exact north-south direction, bring the North Star to the ground, with the use of two sighting sticks. Plant the longer stick in the ground and with the shorter stick, sight across the top of the two sticks and the North Star, like aiming a gun. When the tops of the two sticks and the North Star are in a direct line, push the short stick into the ground. Draw a line on the ground or tie a string between the two sticks. The line will show the true North-South direction. Another line drawn at right angles from this direction will, of course, point east and west. In case the Big dipper is partly hidden by clouds, trees, or by 2 mountain, there are three pointers which will help you find the North Star: (1) through the stars farthest apart in the head of the Dragon (Draco); (2) from the double star in the middle the Big Dipper to the center star of Cassiopeia; and (3) through the pointer stars in the Northern Cross (Part of Cygnus).

Moss-on-Trees Method Did you know that moss grows on the trunk of a tree facing North? The explanation is that moss grows on cool places and as the north wind is always cooler than wind coming from the other directions, moss grows facing north. Find out for yourself when you go with your Troop to the forest.

MAP READING Using a Map By now, you must know what a map is. Your geography book contains a number of them. Bigger ones are usually displayed in school. You must have seen that the maps show the shape of a country or smaller parts of it, as seen from above. Some maps show the mountains, rivers, roads, railroad tracks, lakes, hills and valleys. These are done by means of symbols or conventional signs. Such maps are called topographic maps. To pass this requirement, you have to learn and identify at least ten signs on a map.

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Contour Lines Topographic maps have contour lines. These are lines that show levels of the ground, either high or low. When the lines are far apart it means that the ground is gently sloping or rolling. Where the lines come close to each other, it is high ground or a hill. You will know the top of a hill by a dot and a number which is the height of the hill at its highest point. Contour lines with decreasing numbers mean the ground is going down a slope.

Color in a Map Usually, a map is colored to represent various features of the area shown. To make them easy to read, maps are made in standard colors. Those printed in black are those made by man such as roads, railroads, bridges, cities, boundaries and zones. Bodies of water are colored blue, while forests are green. Hills and valleys are shown by brown contour lines.

Orienting a Map Orienting a map means that what is shown as North on the map must point toward or coincide with the actual North. To do this, spread out the map on flat surface and place a compass on it. Turn the map until the needle lies in the same direction as the arrow shown in the map. The top of the map is true North. You can also orient a map by finding a road on which you are standing and then turning the map so that the road on it runs in the same direction as the road on which you are.

Following a Map If you were given a topographic map and asked to follow a road from a starting point X to Z as indicated, how do you go about it? The first thing you have to do is to study your map so that you can find your direction towards your objective Z. For part of the way, you can travel by road or trail (line X-Y), but for the rest of the way you will follow your compass cross-country (line Y-Z).

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You walk along the road or trail from your starting point X to point Y. Then before starting as you have done before, draw a pencil line from Y to Z. Place your compass on this line so that it will run through the center of the compass. The North end of the compass needle should be at rest at the zero or N mark. From the line which you have drawn, you can read the direction where you are supposed to go. This will be the compass degree reading and the direction you will travel to reach point Z.

To know how far you have to travel, measure the distance from Y to Z with a ruler or a piece of paper on the edge of which you will mark the distance between the two points. Check this distance with the map scale. In case the map scale has been made without any regard for its exactness, copy the map scale along the edge of the paper and make use of the paper as a measuring stick. Example: The distance from Y to Z is 2 centimeters. The scale on the map is 1 kilometer to a half centimeter. Therefore, the distance in kilometers from Y to Z is 4 kilometers. Remember that there are 1,000 meters in a kilometer. By using the length of your average step, you can find the number of steps to cover the distance from Y to Z. A map is a simplified picture of a landscape as it would look from the air – something like an airplane view. But instead of the masses of forests, roads, fields, rivers, houses, bridges, and so forth, these important features of the countryside are shown by means of standard symbols. Some of the more important conventional signs are shown below. Try to learn all of them.

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Maps, like pictures, have a top and a bottom. Usually the top is North and the bottom is South. But more than this, there can usually be found somewhere on the map an arrow pointing toward magnetic North. Another important feature that is found in a map is a scale. It is the key to the distance represented by the map. It may be written in different ways: 1 cm. = 1/2 km. (which means that 1 centimeter on the map equals one-half kilometer on level ground); or 1:1,000 or 1/1000 (which means that 1 centimeter on the map equals l kilometer on level ground). In other maps, for example, that of whole islands or the whole of the Philippines, the scale may be 1 centimeter, more or less to 150, or 300, or 450 kilometers, as the case may be. Different maps are drawn to different scales.

Then you may find many thin lines across a map. They can appear to be very confusing at first, but really they are important because they have stories to tell. They are called contour lines. Every point along one of these lines is the same elevation. If you follow one of them on your map, you will come 151 across a number, such as, for example, 95. This means that everything along that line lies 95 meters above sea level. If you could imagine the sea rising 95 meters, this line would be the new shore line. The difference between the elevation of the land shown by each contour line and the next one to it is usually 10 or 20 meters. Sometimes the numbers are only in the hundreds. For example:100, 200, 300, etc. The contours indicate the ups and downs of the country. Where they are far apart, the ground is gently sloping the place may be suitable for a camp site. If they fall together, they indicate a cliff or a mountain wall. Where the lines come close to each other, the hill is steep. The top of a hill is indicated with a dot and a number. The number is the height of the hill at its highest point. Perhaps you may have read in items about the war something like this: “Hill 185 still holding out”; or “Hill 220 fell today.” For quick identification the heights of such hills become their names. Map Sketching In making a map sketch of your Patrol campsite, remember that the main purpose of the sketch is to enable you to plan your campsite so that it will be comfortable and safe. You do not need an elaborate map. Your map sketch, however, should show the following: the general direction, the land slopes, the directions from which the winds blow, and the places where wood and water can be obtained. A scale of about one inch to twenty feet will enable you to show in your map sketch how far apart the tents are pitched, the distance of the latrine from the camp, the distance from the spring and wood supply and the general size of the campsite.

MAP SKETCH SYMBOLS

In your map sketch you should also include natural features such as trees, fences, and streams which should be indicated in conventional signs. Tents and camp furnishing may be drawn simply and labeled accordingly.

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Sketching a Four-Kilometer Route A map sketch of the guide route to your campsite does not have to be exact to guide anyone to your campsite. The important things to include in the sketch are: (1) conspicuous landmarks, particularly wherever turns are to be made, and (2) the types of roads that lead to the place, whether foot path, dirt road or highway. Be sure that these landmarks are obvious and that anybody can find them. It is also advisable to: (1) show North by an arrow (to show the general lay of the land) (2) indicate a well-known starting point and (3) give approximate distances. Remember that you are being asked to make a rough sketch, not a detailed map with specific compass directions and distances. Make field notes as you hike to camp, noting down prominent land marks and estimated distances. These will serve as your basis for the map sketch.

The important thing is you should be able to make this sketch quickly and accurately enough so that someone else can go where you want him to go.

FIRE BUILDING AND COOKING Building a Fireplace Cooking your own food is an essential routine in camp life. It is therefore important that you know something about cooking fires and camp cookery. Certainly, you will have well-cooked food in camp if you have a finely constructed fireplace. The kind of fireplace that you build depends upon the availability of materials such as stone, bricks, clay, logs, or rocks, and also upon the length of time that you are going to stay in camp. If you stay overnight, it is merely necessary to have a rock fireplace or an open-trench fireplace. If you plan to stay in camp for several days, however, you should have an improved fireplace such as the hunter's or trapper's fireplace or an altar fireplace which is elevated above the ground. One important thing to remember is to build all fire places in a safe place.

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Rock Fireplace (Easily built out of stones or rocks)

Choose rocks of even size and as nearly flat on top and bottom as possible. Arrange them in two rows, close enough to accommodate your cooking utensils. Place a large flat rock at end of the row. Open-Trench Fireplace

(Dug in the ground) Make it wide enough to fit your pots, about a foot deep, three to four feet long. Widen windward end, and slope it. The trench goes easy on fuel, is safer than above-ground, especially during a windy day.

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Hunter's or Trapper's Fireplace

Consists of two green logs of hardwood, three to four feet long, six to nine inches thick) Roll the logs up on either side of your fire, about six inches apart. Since it is made of wood, the fire will gradually eat up the logs from the inside. Altar Fireplace

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(Similar to the Rock Fireplace except that it is elevated from the ground in order to make your cooking task much easier) With this type of fireplace, you do not need to stoop or bend every time you want to check on your cooking. Fire by Friction On one of your camping trips, you may find yourself without matches or they may have gotten wet accidentally. To be prepared for this, learn how to build fire without matches, that is, by friction. Illustrated here are several methods of building fire by friction. Master one so that when you go out camping, you will be prepared to build fire without a match or a lighter. Fire Without Use Of Matches Another easy way to start a fire without matches: Use of the rays of the sun through a field glass lens or magnifying glass. By holding the lens or glass at a proper distance from tinder or dry grasses, you can produce a flame within a minute or two. Make the hand piece from a piece of bamboo 2 in. wide and about 1 ft. long. Shape one edge into a V with a knife or bolo. Shavings and fuss could be used later for the punk and tinder. Make sure one edge of the hand piece is always knife sharp.

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Make the fireboard from the other half of the bamboo by shaving lengthwise of the outer skin until a very narrow slit appears.

Fire May Be Produced In Two Ways Some prefer to rest the hand piece on the ground and hold the fireboard with their hands. Meanwhile the thumbs hold on to a small strip of bamboo to make sure the punk is on the slit in the inner core. With long even strokes, sparks are produced in the notch. Keep strokes steady until a heavy smoke denotes that a glowing ember has been produced in the punk.

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The second method has the fireboard laid flat on the ground and the hand piece rubbed crosswise on it. Sparks produced by long even strokes fall down on the punk placed inside the fireboard. Fanning the ember inside the fireboard is done by striking the slit with the hand piece.

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The smoking punk should be placed on more bamboo fuss and with long soft blows, fire will be produced.

The Sulpak Used by our forefathers, the sulpak is another fast and efficient tool for building fire without matches. It is made from carabao horn.

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In the outdoor activities of your Troop that you joined, you must have enjoyed many interesting experiences. Aside from enjoying yourself, you learned how to locate and prepare a fire site and how to light a fire outdoors. These new skills that you learned as part of the requirements for Second Class Badge, will now enable you to do something you perhaps have never done before: cooking a meal outdoors.

Preparing Kindling To build a fire out-of-doors for cooking a meal, you have to know how to prepare kindling and firewood. Kindling are small pieces of material such as wood or bamboo that burn easily and are therefore used to build fires. In the Philippines, almost every community has plenty of small dry twigs that make good kindling. During the rainy season when everything is wet or damp, you have to make a fuzz stick first to build a fire. You begin by splitting open a fairly thick log which may be wet outside but dry in the center. Cut the center part into sticks then fuzz them with a knife by whittling the surface of these sticks into a long, thin shavings without cutting them off entirely from the stick itself.

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Prepare Firewood During summer, there are plenty of dry sticks that you can easily gather for firewood. Better still gather dead branches that are pencil-thin, others that are as thick as your thumb, and still others that are thicker. To have more supply of firewood, find and cut a standing dead tree and chop it into short pieces. Split wood burns faster and easier than whole logs.

When splitting wood with a bolo or an axe, stand or squat close to the chopping block and use the contact method. Position the blade of the bolo or axe against the end of the wood so that it is parallel to the grain. Together raise the wood and the bolo or axe and bring both down on the chopping block. Twist the wood against your bolo or axe to split the wood. In chopping a stick against the grain, set the blade on a slanted position and away from you for safety and to cut through easily. After preparing the firewood, you can now use them for building a fire. Here are some suggestions on fire building:

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1) Always carry a good supply of matches. Matches may be waterproofed by dipping them, one at a time, in candle grease. 2) Use bamboo for building fire by friction. 3) Hard wood produces good coal for heating, broiling, stewing, and slow frying. 4) Coconut shells make excellent fuel. They make quick burning fires and their coals last long.

So try to learn as much about fire building and fire control as you can. Fire will be your constant companion in outdoor adventures. It will play an important part in your life, whether you are out for a day hike, an overnight camp, or a summer camp with your Troop.

Locating and Preparing a Suitable Fire Site There are several things to be considered when you go in search of a suitable fire site. The nearness of wood or fuel is important. It will also depend upon what kind of fire you want to build. Also, the Weather will be a determining factor. If the weather is clear and there is little wind, almost any place will do. But when there is rain or a strong wind, try to find some natural shelter such as a rock, cliff, cave or a clump of trees or the sheltered side of a ravine. After you have found a suitable fire site, clear the ground of all inflammable materials like dry leaves, twigs, and grasses, by scraping them away. Take away overhanging branches that may be damaged by the heat. On grassy soil it is better to dig up the turf with a shovel and store it on a moist shady spot so that you can replace it when you do not want to use the place any more for a fire site. If the ground is wet lay a floor of sticks or bark of dead trees to build your fire on.

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Laying Out and Lighting a Fire

There are several ways of laying a fire. But the easiest and most commonly used are the tepee or pyramid fire and the criss-cross fire. To lay out a tepee or pyramid fire use tinder as a base. There are some natural tinder like barks of trees, the extremely fine, dead twigs of some other trees, and dried grass. If there is no natural tinder available, or for the purpose of meeting your Second Class requirement, cut long thin shavings from a piece of wood or whittle a fuzz-stick. Then after you have arranged your tinder, place around it fine twigs to form a tepee or pyramid. Split sticks are gradually increased in size and length until the fire is built to the desired size. Feed the fire from the lee side and with successively bigger sticks.

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To make a crisscross fire, place on the ground, 8 to 10 inches apart, two heavy pieces of wood approximately a foot long and as thick as your biceps. Place between these two pieces of sticks a sufficient quantity of tinder. Then lay fine twigs across the two heavy sticks above the tinder until the space is filled with sticks about one inch apart. Next, lay slightly heavier twigs on top of the first layer at right angles to it. For the succeeding layers use increasingly bigger sticks and arrange them so that the stick of each layer are at right angles to the sticks of the preceding one. After you have carefully laid the sticks and have piled a good stack of wood at hand to keep it going you are ready to light it. See to it that the opening to the tinder at the base of the pile is free and on the windward side. Crouch or squat in front of wood with your back to the wind so that you will serve as a windbreak especially if there is a stiff breeze blowing. Strike a match. Keep it in the hand, head downward, until the matchstick is burning well and then apply it to the base of the tinder. Keep the fire going for cooking a meal. That is why you must have a good supply of wood at hand. Feed the fire from the lee side and do not leave it unattended. Some Miscellaneous Suggestions about Fire Building Always carry a good supply of matches. Matches may be waterproofed by dipping them one at a time in candle grease. Fingernail polish or hot paraffin can also be used for water proofing matches. But for purposes of emergency, better learn making fire by friction. Bamboos are found in every part of the Philippines and they are good for producing fire by friction. Use soft wood for flames – for broiling, searing, quick frying. They are also best for starting fires. Make your fuzz-sticks out of them. Hard wood makes lasting coals for heating, broiling, stewing, and slow frying. For broiling, however, be sure of the kind of wood you get because there are some whose coals give off an unpleasant savor to the things broiled. Coconut shells are excellent fuel any time and the good thing about them is that they can be found in almost any part of the country. They make quick burning fires and the coals last a long while.

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THE SCOUT HIKER All the while we have been talking about a number of Scouting skills. But where do they fit in? What are they all for? Every Troop worthy of its name should have an outdoor experience at least once a month. Sometimes it is a hike, sometimes it is a camp. And every Scout should be an outdoor boy one in the Second Class should be a good hiker. All his training in this rank is aimed at making him proficient in this outdoor activity. Hiking With Your Troop and Patrol There are many kinds of hikes and all of them mean lots of good, clean, out of doors exercise, training, and fun. There is the so-called Scoutcraft Hike. Each Patrol sets out for the town/ province with a map and a compass and when it arrives at its destination the members go in for fire building, cooking, first aid, pioneering, and other Scouting activities. You will have a good time and this occasion will also enable you to meet many of your requirements for Second or First Class badge.

Then, with your Troop, you can perhaps take in Treasure Hunts, Roving Knight Hikes, Lost Child Hikes, and Commando Hikes. In a treasure hunt each Team is given a sealed envelope. On the outside is a map sketch with a cross on it and the instructions: Proceed to point marked X then open the envelope. When you get there, break the seal. Inside are instructions on how to find out the first clue, possibly written in Morse Code. Then your Team sets out for the hike using all your Scout craft knowledge, you try to track down clue after clue. And, finally, if your Patrol is the smartest, it will be the first one to find the treasure.

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On a Roving Knight Hike, the Teams are sent out, like knights of old, to see how many Good Turns they can find to do in a given length of time. When the hike is over your Team reports to the whole Circle on your services. A Lost Child Hike is quite different. The Patrols are mobilized, given instructions and sent out into the woods to find the child. The lost child may be a life-sized doll or just one made of pillow or child's clothing, and placed in a not too conspicuous spot by one of the Troop leaders. [NOTE: If a physician certifies that the Scout's physical condition does not permit this requirement for an indeterminable length of time, the Advancement Committee, of the local Council may authorize the substitution for the hike, the requirements for any one outdoor Merit Badge subject (such as camping, pioneering, nature objects, and others) which the Scout is capable of meeting. In each individual case, application for substitution must be made in advance by the Troop Leader to the local Council Advancement Committee and the specific substitution must be approved in writing by the Committee, after thorough review. This provision is to take care of boys seriously handicapped physically (cripples, heart cases, etc.) and will be applied in extreme hardship cases only.] Another type of a Troop hike can be very thrilling. In fact, it is just an adoption of what the far-famed commandos of the last war did. In this game, half of the Troop's Patrols is pitted against the other half for a day of intense Scoutcraft, involving stalking, trailing, tracking, daring, etc. These are just a few types of hikes your Troop may do. There are many others and your Troop Leader will tell you about them. Try to talk them over with him and on your next outing, select one or more and assuredly you will be in for lots of adventure and fun. If you are only with your Patrol there are several types of hikes which you can choose. They are all interesting and exciting and your Scouting skills will be assuredly put to test. For example, there is the Compass or Beeline hike. You follow a straight compass course right across the town/province, overcoming all obstacles on the way – rivers, rocks, or ravines. Or how would you like a Tracking Hike? You follow the natural trail of some animal and make track sketches. Another way is to have some of the boys go ahead and lay a trail with Scout trail signs for the rest of the Patrol to follow. This is a very exciting kind of hike. In a Nature Hike, the members of the Patrol consider themselves a group of naturalists out to report on the trees, plants, birds, mammals, rocks, etc. of your locality. Or try an Exploration Hike along back roads, rivers, lake shores, or other unusual routes new to the Patrol. You can go on a Photographic Hike if several of you have cameras. If none of you owns a camera, you can make it a Sketching Hike. In this kind of hike, each Scout makes a certain number of drawings of things seen on the way. It will be lots of fun even though you are not an artist. Some of the pictures may be good enough or funny enough for your Patrol log book or for the walls of your Patrol meeting place. Really there are very many kinds of Patrol hikes which you and your friends can think up. All you need is a little imagination and ingenuity.

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After the type of hike has been chosen, the next thing to do would be to plan it carefully ahead of time. In this way you will be able to get the most out of your hike. With everything planned and with your outfit in shape, you start off with your gang, everyone in fine mettle and raring to go, your Patrol flag gallantly waving in the breeze. Hiking, real honest-to-goodness hiking, has long been a traditional Filipino accomplishment. You may have heard or read about our Igorot cargadores who have for ages past been accomplishing seemingly almost superhuman feats of transporting heavy cargoes across nearly impassable paths for long distances and in record time. In many places in our country, even in places where there are good roads, it is still customary to hike to and from the farm, school, market and other places. We have good roads but there are not many of them. Also, we lack transportation facilities. Then you will remember that during the war our modern transportation conveyances were either commandeered by the enemy or put in storage for lack of fuel, tires and replacement parts, and we had to use our feet in order to go from one place to another overland. It is well perhaps that even today, many people still prefer hiking to riding. And the hikes you will have with your Patrol or Troop is one way to perpetuate this tradition that makes for men strong in body, strong in character, and strong in leadership.

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Now, then, everything is all set for your Patrol hike. It is the time for you to show how good a hiker you are. Of course, you have not forgotten the kind of clothing to wear and the equipment to take. You are familiar with hiking methods and have enough knowledge on first aid to be able to take care of yourself and others in case of an emergency. Preparing For a Hike Now that you have passed your Tenderfoot requirements, you can participate more actively in the outdoor activities of your Troop. In order to be able to enjoy hiking and camping, you must learn how to prepare for them. Clothing Clothing is a most important item in your outdoor work. You will not enjoy it if you feel cold or warm, or if your shoes pinch your toes. Be sure that your clothes are strong and tough. They should fit you loosely to allow easy movement of your arms and legs. Thick clothes should be worn on rainy days and light ones during the hot months. Your shoes should be well broken and must have thick soles. They should not be tight. You should be able to wiggle your toes. If you can feel the front of your shoes, it is tight! Some Scouts prefer to wear two or a thick pair of socks when hiking. Your short sleeved shirt will do for all seasons. You should have a spare of underclothing for change when the hike is over. On rainy days, it is desirable to carry a poncho or a raincoat along. It is advisable to pack your clothes in plastic bags. Waterproof your clothes every time you go on to a hike. During hot and rainy months, it is ideal to use a wide brimmed hat. At the end of the hike, wet clothes, socks and shoes should be dried. If the sun is hidden, build a fire and stretch a rope between two poles well above and about a yard each from the fire. Tie your shoes by the shoestrings and hang them so that the heat will strike the soles. Socks and clothing should be hung on the rope.

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Equipment It is good to be prepared always. When going on a hike, include things that you may need in addition to what you will need. Take the following with you always: • Matches in waterproof case • Knapsack • Water purifier tablets • Drinking cup • Cooking gear • Eating utensils • Food in food bags • Extra socks • Knife • Compass • Map • Candle • First Aid Kit • Canteen •Toilet paper Add the following items as you may need them also: • About 20 feet of cord • Fishing hooks and lines • Axe or bolo • Some candy • Scout handbook • Pencils and paper • Small flashlight • Poncho or raincoat • Whetstone • File

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THE KNAPSACK

A knapsack is a large bag with shoulder straps. It is made in various materials or fabrics, natural or synthetic; of various lengths and depths, and is about as wide as and fits your back as snugly as possible. Some have pockets inside or outside, or both, for small items. When making or selecting your knapsack, be sure that it is not too long for your body. See that it can be adjusted to fit different loads also. When packing, place blankets and other soft articles next to your back. Place the hard objects on the outside. Or you can place a sleeping pad around your load so that hard objects will not pinch your back. Be sure to adjust the weight evenly. Be sure that the weight is concentrated on the hips. Your knapsack should ride as close as possible to your back. The general rule in packing is load light things in the bottom and heavy on top. Articles that you will need last should be placed at the bottom. Your poncho, flashlight, first aid kit and drinking cup should be at the top or placed on external pockets of your knapsack. Place your shoes, food, toilet and other small articles in small bags or packages so that they may be easy to get. Heavy objects should be packed very well so that the pack will not sag. No matter how heavy your pack may be, you will not suffer discomfort if what you are carrying are properly arranged.

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Pack Frame

Pack frames or pack boards can be made or bought in different styles. They are best for carrying uncomfortably shaped loads because these can not touch your back. When packing a frame, arrange your things on a ground cloth or some other big piece of cloth, fold it over the duffel tightly, and lash the bundle to the frame. Your first aid kit and other important items should be easy to reach.

THE PANTS PACK

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Pack Basket Pack baskets can be made from bamboo, rattan and other local materials. They have shoulder straps attached. They can be made in various styles. As in the case of the knapsack and the pack frame, the basket must fit you. Improvised Packs Scouts can easily improvise packs when the need for them arises and there is none on hand. Sacks and bags or even pillow cases will serve the purpose. When making a pack out of flour bag or some similar material put a pebble at each bottom corner of the bag and twist it to form a neck. Around this neck, tie one end of a piece of cord with a clove or timber hitch. Repeat the procedure on the opposite corner. Put your duffel in the bag, taking care that soft ones are placed next to your back. Take the loose ends of the cord and tie them firmly to the neck of the pack sacks, leaving them loose enough to slip your arms through. To keep the cord from hurting your shoulders, place a pad of soft cloth or grass under the parts of the cords passing your shoulders. Tumpline A tumpline on your back is desirable on long hikes or when you are hiking in a mountainous country. It rests your shoulders and the pack can be quickly shed off in case you slip on rocks or a steep hill. To make a tumpline, use any soft, strong material for the headpiece. Tie a loop of cord at each end. To the outside bottom corners tie two pieces of cord. Adjust the length of these cords so that when the tumpline is across your head, it will support part of the weight of the pack, and tie them to the loops.

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During the hike, tighten the tumpline and take some of the weight on your neck and head when your shoulders are tired. When the neck gets tired, loosen the tumpline and ease the weight down on your shoulders. When walking across a narrow bridge or trail, or climbing or descending a steep grade, use the tumpline alone, without the shoulder straps. If you slip you can easily twist your head, shed off the pack and avoid a serious fall. Every Season is Hiking Season The whole year is for hiking. Every season should find your Patrol on the open road. Then, some day, you will be a Hiker with a capital H – but not until you have hiked through the wind and the showers of rain and the heat of summer. There will be hardships at times. There will be fights with brambles and thorns, maybe an unexpected hole in the swamp land, a sudden downpour that will drench you. But you'll learn to take the hardships with good humor, even enjoy them. They are all part of the fun of hiking, and they make a swell story when you get back to camp. Planning the Hike To get the most out of your hike, the whole Patrol should plan it carefully ahead of time. You should have a definite place to go and a reason for going there. You may want to train for Scoutcraft, nature lore, or go in for exploration or special Scout games. Your goal may be your favorite camp site, a hill top, a lake, a beach, a historical spot. How to Hike In hiking, your pace must fit with the slowest member of the group. It will naturally be faster on a highway than in cross country but it must be adapted to the distance you intend to cover and the pack you are carrying, so that you will not be too tired for other activities when you reach your destination. On long, uphill grades, stops will be necessary. Short rests at short intervals are better than long rests at long intervals. Test your pace by means of the talking test. When the pace is too fast for conversation among your companions, it is too fast for a long hike, although it may do for a short one. Avoid making your steps too long or too short. Point your toes straight ahead and you will cover more ground with fewer steps and will not become easily tired. Imitate the Indians. He placed his feet softly on the ground, with toes pointing straight forward or even a trifle pigeon toed, and glided along with a smooth natural movement of the whole body. On even ground, come down lightly on your heel, reach forward and push up with your toes. You will have an up and down motion, which is the best way of hiking. Courtesy As You Go A good time to put into practice “A Scout is Courteous” is on a hike. That means courtesy on the road and respect for other people's property. Be sure to obey all “Keep Off ,” “Private” and “No Trespassing” signs.

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Fences are placed to keep somebody out or something in not for climbing over. When you have permission to hike across private property use the gates and leave them as you found them. Nothing in the world makes it right for you to cross a planted field or a meadow before mowing. To do so is to destroy a farmer's crop. Animals are property also. Horses are in the field to rest for hard work. Cows give more milk when unworried. So Scouts should not molest them. Also, there may be real danger in passing through fields where farm animals are grazing. Woodlands are crops. You are interested in conserving them, not in marring or destroying them. Crossing railroad trestles or hiking on railroad tracks is not only against the law, but dangerous. Stay away from them! Safety on the Highway When Scouts go on a hike, they usually go cross country. So much fun is lost when they walk on the highway. Walking becomes monotonous and the absence of trees exposes the hikers to the sun. When you cannot avoid following a highway, remember to take proper precautions. Walk in single file on the left side of the road so that you will see oncoming traffic and can get off the road when you see cars coming. The Patrol Leader is 25 feet ahead of the first Scout, the Assistant Patrol Leader 25 feet behind the last. On night hikes with your Troop or Patrol, you and your companions should tie white pieces of cloth on your right leg and right forearm. Or you can even wear light colored shirts. Drivers of passing vehicles will easily see you even on a dark night. “When you are walking along highways and busy streets, remember to hike against the flow of vehicular traffic. You see oncoming traffic and can get off the road when you need to.”

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At all times be very careful when approaching curves, crossroads, or some other place where you cannot see far in front. If possible, keep off the roadway as a vehicle may be upon you before you can avoid it. Avoid hitch hiking. If you intend to go on a hike, start and finish it on your feet, except in emergency cases. Across country, use special care. Avoid jumping from rock to rock or hurdling over obstacles. Your foot must fall on solid ground always. Be very careful while pulling your way up or letting yourself down a hillside using ropes, vines, trees and shrubs for support. Dead branches may break off or your weight might pull out a shrub by the roots. Do not let the spirit of adventure get the better of your common sense and you will avoid accidents. Care of the Feet If you get sore feet while hiking, place a thin piece of gauze over a sore spot as soon as it is noticed and keep it in place with adhesive tape. Doing this on spots of the feet that may get irritated in advance is a good idea. When walking in daylight, lean forward from the hips; Twist hips a trifle with each leg swing. Add final push with toes of back foot. Keep arms swinging easily, chin up. Breathe deeply.

When walking in the dark or noiselessly, make your foot feel out the ground with toes and ball, in a short step, before you put it down. Lean body slightly backward, head slightly forward. Be on the alert. When carrying a pack, make strides as long and as comfortably as possible. Lean forward with a slight stoop. This will cause the pack to push you forward. Keep arms relaxed. Resting on the Way Every half hour or so, stop for a rest. Make it short five minutes. If you rest longer, your leg muscles will stiffen and you'll have trouble limbering them up again. Make sure your rest is a real one. When the time is up, snap out of it, and get off into your stride again.

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While you are actually hiking, keep away from soda drinks, candy, and pops. They only make you thirsty and dehydrate you. So does continual sipping from the water in your canteen. If you feel thirsty, put a small clean pebble in your mouth. It should be large enough so you won’t swallow it by accident. You will be surprised by what this does. Safe Water And talking about drinking: never drink from a well or a spring, unless you are very sure that the water is fit for drinking. Even crystal clear water may contain deadly germs. Find out if the water is good by checking with local people. A simple way of having pure drinking water on your hike is to carry a sufficient amount from your home in a canteen. If that can't be done, there are ways to purify the water from a spring by killing the germs in it. Dissolve two Halazone tablets in one quart of water, then let it stand for 30 minutes before using. Or boil the water for five minutes. Then pour from one pot to another and back again several times to aerate and cool it. Making Latrines While On a Hike A Boy Scout attends to proper waste disposal when he goes hiking or camping. On hikes, a latrine eight inches deep and six inches in diameter will be enough for use by one boy. After using, the hole should be filled in with an extra mound of three inches at least. The soil will settle to the original ground level after the first rain.

Latrines intended to be used for a few days should be at least two feet deep, eight inches wide and one foot long for every Scout. The scooped soil should be piled nearby. After each use, a few inches of dirt should be shoveled into the latrine. When the hole is filled to about fifteen inches from the top, all the dirt should be shoveled into the latrine, leaving a mound of about six inches on top. Then make a new latrine.

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SILENT SCOUT SIGNALS

During the hike, the following signals will be useful for some formations. When your Troop Leader or Patrol Leader raises his right hand high above his head in the Scout sign, it means Attention or Silence. As soon as you notice it, do the same. When everybody in your Patrol or Troop is already making the sign, the leader will lower his hand. Lower yours also and watch for the next signal. Troop Formations

FORWARD – One arm extended upward down to arm forward. Also means Follow Me, Let's Go, Keep Moving.

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HALT – Hand over shoulder to arm upward fingers extended and joined, palm facing front. Means, Stop but be on the alert. Don't Move.

HURRY – Closed fist, hand over shoulder, pump arm upward- downward twice or more, means Double Time,” “Run.” If assigned to do something when given this signal, “Make it Snappy.”

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DOWN – From arms forward shoulder level, palms down, lower hands to waist level. Take Cover, Lay Low.

SPREAD OUT – Arm sideward, palms down. Means Keep Further Apart.

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ASSEMBLE – Wave hand in circle over your head. Also means Come Here.

CLOSE UP – Closed fist over your head. Means Gather Around Me, Come Closer To Me.

TURN THIS WAY – Arms sideward. Column right or left according to the direction pointed.

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MANUAL OF THE STAFF

Single Rank Formation

Closed Single Rank Formation

“U” Formation

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Open Column of Patrols

Closed Column of Patrols

Parallel Files

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Troop Circle Formation

Dismissal

CAMPING

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In the requirement for camping, you have to do five things, namely: 1) Join a weekend camp with the members of your Patrol or Troop. 2) Prepare a balanced menu for your Patrol covering all meals for the entire weekend. 3) Secure the necessary ingredients for your menu. 4) Cook and serve all meals for one whole day for your Patrol. 5) Clean up after each meal. When you go camping you have to spend days and nights out-of-doors away from the comforts and conveniences of home. This serves as your training on how to live in the open.

To be able to enjoy and get the most benefit out of camping, you should know the following: Camping Preparation, Camp Sanitation, Camp Shelter, and Camp Cookery. Camping Preparation One of the biggest thrills in Scouting is camping. Not only is it fun but it also trains you to learn to get along with other Scouts. It means spending days and nights out-of-doors, away from the comforts and conveniences of home. Camping is actual training on how to live in the open. The camping requirements give you the opportunity to be real Scout campers. As you live in camp with your fellow Scouts, you will have lots of fun and adventure. You will experience waking up among friends to a beautiful, fresh, and dewy morning and have the thrill of swimming, playing games, and working in happy comradeship with your buddies, both in the Patrol and the Troop. You will discover the mysterious enchantment of being with your fellow Scouts, singing and telling stories around the glowing light of a campfire under the starry sky.

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As you follow the adventure trail, you will have more and more opportunities for camping. Before, as you worked your way up the Second Class Scout trail, the climax of your Scouting experience was going out on a hike – covering a route of not less than fourteen kilometers; now you are expected to round out your outdoor experience by going with your Patrol or with an adult companion for not less than sixty hours. To get the most fun out of your camping experience, you must learn to make proper preparations. You must know ahead of time what kind of clothes to wear for any kind of weather and place. You must know what equipment you need and how to pack it. And you must know and remember several other things that will make your camping more comfortable and enjoyable. Your Clothing in Camp Much of the enjoyment that you will get out of camping depends upon your choice of clothing. For example, if you are too cold or too warm, you get wet when it rains, your feet hurt or your clothing is too tight, giving you very little freedom of movement, you will be uncomfortable; and that is not fun. Make sure that your clothes are strong and sufficiently tough and that they fit loosely so as to allow easy movement of your arms and legs.

YOUR PERSONAL CAMPING EQUIPMENT When preparing for a hike, camp or any outdoor activity, think of the things that you will need. Here is a list of hiking and camping equipment for your reference: One Pack • Blankets/Sleeping Bag • Ground Sheet • Raincoat or Poncho • One Pair Sneakers • One Pair Slippers • Sweater or Jacket • Clothes Bag • Extra Uniform • Swimming Trunks • Change of Underwear • Pajamas • Handkerchiefs • Towel Mess Kit containing: • Knife • Plate • Fork • Cup • Spoon • Bowl

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Bring also the following: • Papers and pen • Flashlight • Scout knife • Canteen • Watch • Camera Sewing/Repair Kit containing: • Needles • Safety pins • Thread • Buttons Toilet Kit containing: • Toothbrush • Metal mirror • Hand towel • Toothpaste • Toilet paper • Soap • Hair Cream • Comb Tenting Crew: • Two-boy tents, with poles and pegs • Dining Fly, with poles and pegs • Guy Lines for tents • Patrol Flag • Bolo or Axe • Shovel Repair Kit containing: • Sharpening stone • Twine • Safety pins • File • Needles • Thread • Hacksaw Grooming Kit containing: • Shoe polish • Shoe brush • Shoe bag • Toilet paper

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First Aid Kit Cooking Crew Kit containing: • 8 serving plates • 8 cups • 2 frying pans • 8 pots • 8 pots • 2 water pails • Electric gas or lantern • Shovel Cleaning Materials: • Scouring pads • Food containers • Paper Napkins • Roll of aluminum foil • Plastic bags • Soap • Matches Cooking Bag containing: • Soup ladle • Sugar • Can opener • Carving knife • Salt and pepper • Bolo or Axe • Frying ladle Others: • Musical instrument • Song Book • Handbook for Boys • Compass • Map • Patrol Camp Equipment Camp Sanitation A good camper knows how to take care of food so that it does not spoil and is not exposed to insects and animal pests. Fresh milk, meat, and some vegetables and fruits will not spoil for at least twenty four hours if kept in a cool and shaded place. Meat should be let to hang in order to drain off its juice. Vegetables will not spoil if their stalks and leaves are partly dipped in water. They can be kept cool by wrapping them up, not too tightly, with fresh leaves such as banana leaves.

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For camps lasting more than twenty-four hours, bring canned or processed meat and fish. If ice is available at your campsite, fresh meat and fish may be used. Any food, unless canned or securely wrapped, will attract ants and flies. To prevent this, store your provisions in racks or bags hung from a tripod, where animal pests cannot reach them. If you hang meat from a tree branch, be sure no ants are there. Study carefully the proper care of food as illustrated here; and when you are camping, follow these hints.

Camp Shelter Camping is an experience in living outdoors, usually in cooperation with others, in tents, cabins, huts, improvised shelters, or in the open without any shelter, away from the usual conveniences of home. Camping is often referred to as a great outdoor adventure. Through camp life, you can absorb the beauty of nature, the stillness of the forest, the merriment of the mountain stream, the freedom of the sky, the cleanness of the wind, and the glory of the sunset. While in camp, you live with nature and you acquire the skill, resourcefulness, and self-reliance of the experienced woodsman. Thus, you will be better prepared for the rigors of worldly living.

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BOLO The bolo is one of our most useful and handiest tools among Filipinos. It is very useful to farmers and carpenters. In war time, it has even been used as a weapon. For the proper handling and the safe use of a bolo, here are some simple rules to follow:

1) Keep the bolo clean and free from rust at all times. Never leave it on the ground. 2) When chopping or splitting bamboo or a piece of wood, place the bamboo or wood firmly against a solid surface and use a slanting stroke. 3) When lopping off branches, start from the under side of the branch. 4) Make sure that the handle is always firm and tight. 5) Keep the bolo away from fire. 6) Never use a bolo as a hammer. 7) After using, always place the bolo inside its scabbard.

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Sharpening Your Knife, Bolo or Hatchet When sharpening a hatchet, a knife, or a bolo, always try to use an old fashioned Whetstone. It will take longer than if sharpened on a modern composition stone but the result will be very much better. But if the knife, bolo, or hatchet is badly nicked or very dull, start sharpening it with a fine file before using a stone. There are whetstones that are embedded in wood blocks and this makes for stability while sharpening. But if you are going to use a loose stone it is better to take all the necessary measures to keep it steady by using your foot to keep it tightly wedged against another firm object. Keep your whetstone firm, otherwise it will take you a long time to sharpen your tool, or the result will not be satisfactory, or worse still, you might get hurt.

How to Sharpen a Bolo To sharpen your knife or bolo lay the blade flat on the whet stone. Then with an edge towards you, raise the back very slightly and draw the blade over the stone toward you. If it is a bolo, you should steady your sharpening by using the other hand to keep the proper slant of the blade against the stone. Later, turn the blade over, edge away from you, and push it away from you for several strokes. Continue working on the side of the blade until it is sharp. If the stone has two different sides, one rough and the other fine, use the rough side first and finish with the fine side. If you are sharpening a knife, finish it by stropping the blade on a piece of leather or soft wood. An axe or a hatchet can be sharpened in the same manner as a bolo. But a more effective way is to sharpen it first with a file that is flat and moderately rough and then finish up with a stone using circular motions on both sides of the blade. Before starting to use the file on the blade, make sure that the hatchet or axe is steady. Lean the head of the axe against a stake driven into the ground. Hold the axe steady with one knee on the handle or by a forked stick driven down over it. Then file straight toward the butt starting from one edge and working away from it, with a slightly rolling motion. Then turn the axe over and work on the opposite side. To finish up with the stone, use circular motions on both sides.

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Locating a Shelter Site Choosing a shelter site requires careful planning and deliberation. Do not choose just any site to pitch your tent or shelter. Consider these factors when choosing a place to pitch your tent. Ask yourself: Is it safe? Is it comfortable? Can it be made livable? First, look around. Learn all you can about your surroundings. Find out which way the wind normally blows, because you should always pitch your tent with its back to the wind. Select a fairly open and level spot, one that is sufficiently elevated to afford good and natural drainage. Choose a spot fully exposed to the sun at least part of the day, preferably in the morning. While trees provide the tent with pleasant shade at noontime, it is not advisable to pitch your tent under a tree. After a rain, the leaves continue to drip with rain water and the tent receives most of it. There is also the danger of trees or their dead branches falling on your tent. There is also the possibility that the tree may be hit by lighting. The old saying that lightning does not strike twice in the same place is not true. The scientific fact is that trees which are rich in fat will resist electric current more than those with comparatively lesser fat content, and electric current will not only run down the trunk but it will also follow the rain water that drips from its branches. Next, consider the nature of the ground on which you want to erect your shelter or tent. If it is too soft, your pegs will not hold fast. If it is too hard or rocky, ordinary wooden pegs cannot be driven in, and you may need some other method of holding your tent or shelter down, as illustrated here. Factors to Consider in Selecting a Campsite

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Pitching a Tent After selecting the site, the first thing to do is to clear the ground of brush, grass, lumpy earth, and stones. Watch out for ant nests. Uncleared ground can be the cause of a painful camping experience and of course, uncomfortable and sleepless nights.

Before pitching your tent, be sure that everything you need poles, pegs, guy ropes, and mallet are on hand. Follow the basic rules in pitching your tent. Close the tent door and then peg down the two front corners so that the tent is lined up the way you want it. Peg down the two rear corners, pulling the sides tightly. Tie down the guy ropes loosely; then raise the tent poles into position. Next, go around the tent and decide how to place the other pegs. Peg the tent sides to the ground and fasten the side lines (if any) with taut-line hitches. These hitches are used because they can be easily tightened and will hold under strain. They can also be loosened quickly when rains shrink the canvas and the lines. Now look around the tent from the outside and make certain that it is pitched correctly. Check whether the sides and walls are smooth and without wrinkles.

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The Taut-line hitch is best for tying your tent guy line. Tie it as shown.

Ditching Your Tent Ditching depends upon two things: the type of soil and the weather condition. If the soil is sandy so that it will absorb water easily, don't ditch. If the soil is hard or clay and you expect rain, do consider ditching. Ditching must always be done from the higher to the lower part of the ground so that the water will follow the ditch around. Never ditch unless absolutely necessary. Dig a ditch about four inches deep and four inches wide along the inside of your tent, or in a way that the water dripping on the edge of the tent falls just at the middle of your canal, as illustrated here. Put the sod at the outside edge of the ditch away from the tent and place it back when you break camp. To ditch a tent in the Hungarian style, take a board about 6 inches wide and lay it down along the wall of the tent. Then cut the sod along the board on both sides. Move the board out from the wall about once its width and take up the sod and lay it with the grass side down on the board. Dig the trench along each side of the tent under the canvas connecting the trenches.

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When breaking camp put back the dirt into the trench with grass side up. This is done ONLY on tents without waterproofed flooring. Modem tents generally are water-proofed. This should be practiced to ensure minimum impact to our environment. Using Native Shelters It is the policy of the Boy Scouts of the Philippines to encourage the use of lean-tos made of the materials available in the locality, such as cogon grass, buri, nipa, anahaw, bamboo, banana stalk, etc. instead of canvas tents. It has been found that our native-built huts are more habitable and healthful than canvas tents.

On these pages are some illustrations of improvised and native shelters used in some Councils in our country. Try to put up one when you go camping. Care of Drinking Water Drinking pure or uncontaminated water in camp is of utmost importance. As a good camper, this should be one of your main concerns. If you are not sure that your drinking water is clean, take no chances. Either boil the water, use Halazone tablets or powdered dry malunggay seeds to purify it. Water can be kept cool and sweet if stored in a desert water bag suspended from a tripod or a tree limb. This will keep the water cooler than the air temperature. If water is stored in containers such as bamboo tubes, make sure that they are well covered to keep dust, insects and animals out. Keep water containers in a shady and cool place.

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Waste and Garbage Disposal Burn all the garbage and rubbish in camp. Put all those that burn into a garbage pit and cover them with layers of dirt or soil. Make the garbage pit at least two feet square and two feet deep. Non-degradable materials like; empty tin cans, bottles, plastics and others should be placed in a garbage plastic bags and dump them to the nearest dumping site.

Since greasy wash thrown on the ground draws flies, make a grease trap by digging a hole (same as the garbage pit) and cover it with twigs. Place a thick layer of dry grass on top of the twigs. When you pour out the dirty water, the dry grass will catch the grease. Burn the dry grass everyday. Use hot water for washing dishes and tableware. Equipment Storage and Protection The equipment that you need in camp includes cooking gear, tents and personal items. When not in use, these pieces of equipment should be cleaned and stored in a box for fly proof items. Flies and similar insects are dangerous to health. You must see to it that they are kept away from camp. Greasy or dirty dishes and cooking utensils attract them. The first step in fly control is to wash all pots and pans thoroughly and dried completely. A good way to keep them clean is to wipe them first with leaves, grass, paper or other materials that can easily be burned after use. Then wash them with hot,

195 soapy water. Follow this with a rinse in a pail or large pot of boiling water. Remove the dishes and store them in a fly proof bag or box and hang the bag from a tripod. Otherwise, place them in a rack made for the purpose and cover them well. Have several fly swatters handy. Don't shoo flies away. Kill them. Field Latrines As soon as your tents are pitched and the ground beds made up, latrines should immediately be dug. For a camp of not more than three days, the straddle trench type of latrine will serve the purpose. For long term camps, the squat pit type of latrine should be made.

Dig the trench on a level spot that is well-screened from camp, away from and lower than your (1) water supply, (2) camp kitchen, and (3) eating place. Make it one foot wide and two feet deep. Allow about nine inches in length for each camper. Pile the dirt from the pit on one side, parallel to the trench so that it can easily be scraped into the trench by foot or towel after each use. Toilet paper should be hung nearby or placed on a stake driven to the ground. After a camper has used part of the trench, he should move the stake with the toilet paper and peg it in a place within the reach of the next user. If the trench is not hidden by bushes or similar natural covering, build a screen or canvas, nipa, coconut leaves, or webbed talahib around it for privacy. A simple latrine seat can be made from poles as shown here. At night, keep a lighted lantern near the latrine to guide the campers. Camp Ground Bed A good camper knows that the two essentials of delightful camping are good food and sufficient sleep. While you are expected to cook your own food, you must also know how to prepare a comfortable ground bed where you can have a good night's rest and sleep comfortably after an active day in the outdoors. Making Your Ground Bed The first step is to clear the area under your shelter of stones, stubs or roots; then select the spot where you will make your bed. Make sure that when lying down, your head is slightly higher than your feet. Scrape out the area where your hips and shoulders will rest. For mattress, use grass or leaves you find in the vicinity. Then spread your ground sheet over the area.

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A mattress, six or seven feet long and three feet across, can be woven from straw, ferns, weeds or grass (cogon, talahib) on a loom made in camp. Ground cloth made of khaki or strong linen can be made at home, stuffed with cotton, rags or kapok, but it should be light enough for carrying. It can be waterproofed by rubbing it with paraffin, wax, or candle and ironed until the wax melts on the fabric. No part of your ground cloth or sheet should protrude out of your tent. Neither should it be stepped on. Ground sheets should be rolled, not folded, when stored or packed. You can use the extra length of your blanket as a pillow after putting grass or leaves under it and rolling back the flap. Or, you can make a bag that serves as a pillow case at night and clothes-bag at daytime. A clean jute sack or a cement paper bag can be used. Making a Camp Loom

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You can weave a mattress on a loom made in camp. Drive a row of five stakes, two and a half feet long, into the ground (Row 1). Opposite this row, at a distance of six or seven feet, drive in another row of two stakes of the same length (Row 2) connected by a crossbar. Tie cord or twine to the crossbar in Row 2, and make it fast there. The rest of the cord is then carried back to Row 1 for about five feet more and fastened to a loose beam. A fellow Scout holds the beam and moves it up and down while another Scout places straw (cogon or talahib) over and under the cord or twine. Building Pioneering Projects The longer you stay in Scouting, the more you will gain experience in camping. Scouting will provide you with the opportunity to develop your skills. As you work your way up to the First Class Scout rank, you are given a chance to apply what you have learned since becoming a Tenderfoot. You are expected to do some practical work in pioneering which covers the application of your knowledge of rope work as well as your ingenuity. The improvements you have made in camp and the gadgets and equipment you have produced are but a few of the pioneering practices that you are expected to employ. Lord Baden-Powell, the Founder of Scouting, described pioneers as men who go ahead to open a way in the jungle or elsewhere for those coming after them. You too can physically, mentally, and morally acquire the skills necessary to make you ready to go out and pave the way for those who follow you. PIONEERING PROJECTS Here are illustrations of the pioneering projects that you are required to build. Study them carefully and learn the steps. The building and preparation of all these projects will depend upon your initiative and ingenuity, your knowledge of Scoutcraft skills like knot-tying and lashing, and your resourcefulness in gathering available materials.

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CAMP COOKERY Good food while in camp is a matter of knowing how to prepare it so that it is as appetizing, wholesome, and clean as food cooked at home. It is important that you should plan ahead of time the food that you bring to camp. Be sure you have balanced diet to keep you strong enough to take part in the strenuous outdoor activities. Planning Your Menu In planning your menu, consider the Three Basic Food groups, namely: 1) ENERGY-GIVING FOOD – Foods which provide the body with energy includes carbohydrates and fat-rich foods like cereals, rice, root crops, sweets, fats, oil. These are essential because they give the body heat and energy so that we can do work and perform activities

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2) BODY-BUILDING FOODS – Foods which aid the body in growth and development are body building foods. These are protein-rich foods like meat, fish, poultry, eggs, milk, nuts and legumes.

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3) BODY-REGULATING FOODS – Regulating Foods help keep the body functioning, digestion, respiration, blood circulation, and excretion. Among these are foods rich in vitamins and mineral as mostly green leafy vegetables, vitamin C and A rich foods, and other fruits and vegetables.

Food Listing After planning your menu, make a food listing. List all the items and ingredients you will need and how many will eat. Consider how many eggs you will need, the number of gantas of rice, cans of milk, etc. Put the amount of each item on your list. Visit a nearby store or market and check the prices of the items on your list. Tell the store-owner your purpose and they will gladly give you a reasonable discount. When you have already priced your menu, get the total amount needed and divide it by the number of those who will be eating in your Patrol. This will give you the food cost per person. Let your Patrol Treasurer collect the amount from the members of your Patrol. Then with your Patrol Treasurer, buy all the necessary ingredients as listed in your menu. Cooking and Serving Meals Follow the menu you had prepared in cooking a meal for your Patrol. As a requirement, you have to cook three meals – breakfast, lunch, and supper. Here are some guides in cooking the three meals. These could also be your guide in listing the food items you need. This guide is good for breakfast, lunch, and supper.

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Preparing Breakfast Fresh Fruit – Fresh fruit eaten regularly for breakfast will supply you with the calories needed for a strong and healthy body. There are many varieties of fruits grown in the Philippines. Bananas are available all year round and are nutritious. Mangoes, chicos, papayas and other fruits in season may be served alternately. Canned Fruit – Canned fruit may be served as substitutes for fresh varieties. Canned pineapples or juice, santol, mangoes, mangosteen, and a host of others can be obtained from the market or any local store or grocery, before you leave for camp. Boiled Rice – You can proudly say that you had done a splendid job cooking rice when each grain is cooked plump, dry, and separate. To cook with such a satisfying result, wash the rice then add just enough water in the pot so that every grain will swell when cooked. The water in the pot depends upon the quantity and quality of the rice to be cooked, so no rule can be given here regarding the amount to be added. With constant practice at home and in camp, you will get to know how much water you should add. Place the pot over the fire and let it come to boil. Let it steam for three to five minutes, then put out the fire, but leave the pot over the embers for another ten minutes until the rice is plump and dry. Boiled rice is not appetizing when eaten alone, but no other cereal will lend itself so well to varied combinations. Rice is not only a staple food. It is also used in soups and stews, in puddings and cakes. While in the camp, you can also boil rice in a bamboo tube. The experienced camper can cook satisfying meals using green bamboo tubes. Here is how it is done: Select a green, mature, and big buho with long joints. This piece should be cut outside the joints leaving both ends closed. Then cut out a square piece at the middle of the tube with a hacksaw. See to it that the square fits properly and is easily removable. Use it as a cover.

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Clean the bamboo tube very well. Then pour enough rice into the tube so that it reaches the opening when the tube is tilted at one end. If the rice is not washed, you will conserve the vitamins. Add enough water until the tube is almost full. Place the cover, being careful to insert the ends into the notches so that it will not fall off. Set the tube in a horizontal position by placing both ends on stones or wooden holders. See to it that the fire gives heat to the entire length of the tube to insure uniform cooking of the rice. When the rice boils, smother the flames but leave the coals to continue the cooking.

The experienced camper can cook satisfying meals using green bamboo tubes. Care should be taken when removing the rice from the tube so as not to spoil it with soot. To remove the content, the tube should first be scraped to remove the burnt portion. Then it should be wiped with leaves or a handy rag to remove the dust, tapped with an axe handle or any instrument in order to loosen the rice sticking to the walls of the tube. Then cut the tube lengthwise and you will find a deliciously cooked rice. Fried Rice – The leftover of boiled rice may be fried alone or mixed with other ingredients such as sliced onions, garlic, ground meat, bacon, or fried eggs. Soft-Boiled Eggs – To soft boil two eggs, pour a pint of water into a saucepan or pot and let it boil. Drop eggs carefully, cover the pan and remove at once from the fire. At the end of ten minutes, the eggs will be ready to serve. Hard-Boiled Eggs – Drop the eggs into boiling water. Boil for ten minutes and drop them immediately in cold water. Scrambled Eggs – Put a teaspoonful of lard or cooking oil into a frying pan. Beat two eggs gently until the yolk and white are mixed. Add salt to taste. When the lard is already hot, pour in the egg and stir continually until they are set.

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Fried Eggs – Break the egg gently into the frying pan so that the albumen thickens over the yolk instead of spreading out. Remove when the white is already solid. Eggs that are fried longer turn leathery and unwholesome. See that the frying pan on which you are frying the eggs is clean and fire is moderately hot. The amount of lard, butter or cooking oil must be just enough to prevent the egg from sticking to the pan. Poached Eggs – Put a pint of water, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and two teaspoonful of vinegar or lemon juice into the frying pan. Let the water come to-gentle boil. Break the eggs separately and pour into the water. Let the water simmer for three to five minutes. Drain before putting the eggs on toast. Tomato Omelet – Sauté garlic and onion. Beat yolk and white of eggs together. Slice tomatoes crosswise as thinly as possible. Pour sautéed garlic and onion and sliced tomatoes (well spaced) into the well beaten eggs. Add pepper and salt to taste. Put lard into the frying pan and when hot, pour the mixture into it. When underside is cooked, take frying pan from the fire, place a plate face down over it and turn over briskly leaving the omelet on the plate. Return frying pan to the fire and cook other side of omelet. Do not attempt to turn over the omelet with a turner or fork as it will break. When an extra nice appearance is desired, pour the mixture on a piece of banana leaf and cook the beaten egg on the banana leaf. Tapa – Cut the beef into thin, wide pieces and sprinkle salt on each piece. Dry under the sun to remove excess moisture. Roast over hot charcoal. Fried Bacon – Slice thin and remove the rind. Pour half full cup of water into the pan and heat then put the bacon. Stir until the water begins to simmer. Remove the bacon and pour off the water. Fry over a moderate fire, turning it over frequently; remove the slices and season with pepper. As the slices cool, they turn crisp. How to Cook Pancakes – Mix one cup of pancake flour and one teaspoon of sugar with enough water or milk. If you have no prepared flour, use a mixture of one cup ordinary flour, one teaspoon baking powder, one pinch of salt, one teaspoon sugar, and one egg. Let it stand for a while without mixing until bubbles appear. Prepare a bed of coals (or fire) and heat the pan thoroughly and keep it hot all the time. Grease the pan with enough lard or bacon fat and pour butter for three or four cakes. After air bubbles form and burst on the top of the cake and its edges dry up, turn it over and fry the other side. For syrup, mix five tablespoons of sugar with one tablespoon of butter and make it brown a little on the pan. Pour in slowly one cup of boiling water and cook until the sugar is dissolved. Milk – Milk should always be available for breakfast. If pasteurized milk is not available near your camp, canned evaporated milk will do. Mix one cup of the evaporated milk with 1-1/4 cup water, hot or cold. To improve the taste, add a few drops of vanilla extract and a bit of sugar to each cup. Cocoa Milk – Mix 3/4 tablespoon of cocoa and 3/4 tablespoon of sugar into a paste with a little water. Whip it into 2-1/4 cups of cold diluted evaporated milk. Hot Cocoa – Mix one tablespoon of cocoa and one tablespoon of sugar in a cup with enough water to make a thin paste. Pour the mixture into two cups of boiling water. Boil for three to five minutes. Add 1/2 cup of evaporated milk before removing it from the fire.

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Preparing Lunch Sinigang – Clean the fish, meat or chicken well and cut into bite size pieces. Sprinkle salt over the pieces and let stand a few minutes. Cut a green young bamboo tube, allowing opening on one end and put in it to half-full, the cut fish, meat or chicken, as the case may be, and tomato or any souring ingredient like green tamarind, kamias, ripe guavas, green mango or alibangbang leaves. Add enough water, one cup for every person to be served. Set on the fire in a reclining position, open end up, turning from time to time until meat/fish is cooked. Add salt to taste and serve. Inihaw – Slice pork to about one inch cube and stick enough into bamboo skewers the size of an ordinary lead pencil. Place the meat over red hot charcoal and cook until brown, turning the stick from time to time to brown all sides of the meat. Sinalab – Clean the fish well, removing the entrails but leaving the scales. Place it over red hot charcoal and turn over when one side is brown. When both sides are brown, immediately place the fish in a dish containing some water and salt and let it stand one or two minutes. Serve with sliced calamansi. Pinakbet – Cut ampalaya and eggplants into slices one and a half inches long and a half inch wide. Sauté garlic, onion and tomatoes (sliced finely) on a pan. Add enough bagoong to season the whole dish. Pour broiled fish into the pot and boil until vegetables are cooked.

The 4- to 8-man cooking set is good for camping over a long period with your Patrol. The individual cooking set on the right comes in handy for one-man cooking. Chicken and/or Pork Adobo – Cut meat into pieces about 1-1/2 inches square and half an inch thin. Place in a container and add salt, vinegar, garlic, and black pepper. Mix thoroughly and allow the ingredients to get into the tissues of the meat for about ten minutes. Then boil until meat is tender. Remove the gravy and sauté the meat pouring back the broth after the garlic is browned. Vegetables – Fresh vegetables should not be washed until they are about to be cooked or eaten because they will lose their flavor. They should be placed in the pan only when the water rapidly boil with the lid of the pan left open. Place salt in the water so that the vegetables are prevented from absorbing too much water.

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Dried vegetables, beans, and mongo should be cooked in unsalted water. Salting the water too soon will only make the cooking difficult. To help soften the vegetables, soak them in fresh water long enough before cooking. Cleaning Vegetables – To get rid of insects from pechay, radish, cabbage, etc., immerse them in plenty of salted cold water and shake until free of insects. Storing Vegetables – Keep vegetables in a cool dry place, keeping each kind away from the other: otherwise they will absorb each other's flavor. Boiled Camote or Sweet Potatoes – Select tubers of the same size and wash them. Do not break the skin. Put in boiling water. Keep water boiling until the sweet potatoes can easily be pierced by a fork. Then drain the water, keeping in as much of the steam as possible. Fried Sweet Potatoes – skin the potatoes and cut them lengthwise. Dust the slices with salt and fry. Serve while hot.

Preparing Desert Suman – This may be made with malagkit, ground cassava, or corn meal. Soak the cassava or corn meal in water for about one hour. Mix the meal with coconut milk and sugar. Wrap in banana leaves and cook slowly in steam. Ginatan – This is a corruption of the word ginataan in Tagalog, meaning cooked with coconut milk. Serve as dessert or merienda. Boil together slices of ubi, nangka, camote, saba, glutinous rice (malagkit) and tapioca in very thin coconut milk obtained by soaking freshly grated coconut meat in water and squeezing.

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Serve with thick coconut milk. Preparing Supper As a rule, supper should be heavy because it is followed by a long period of fast. But do not overeat. A good supper consists of a meat or fish dish with a choice of vegetables, dessert and beverage. The following menu served alternately will form a balanced meal for supper: • Peccadillo with malunggay, fried lumpia (togue, tokwa, ground pork or beef, shrimps) rice and banana syrup. • Clam soup with malunggay (clam, ginger, onion, garlic), fried pork chops, fresh tomato salad, rice and yellow camote jam. • Fish cardillo (fish eggs, green onion, tomatoes, cabbage), rice and fresh fruit. • Mongo guisado with ampalaya tips (mongo, shrimps, pork, onion, garlic, tomatoes, ampalaya tips), pinaksiw na bangus, rice and fresh fruit. • Chop suey (pork or chicken, shrimp, cabbage, bichuelas, green pepper, onion, garlic), rice, fruit and bukayo. • Meat balls with misua and patola, fish (sarciado), alugbati salad, rice, and fruit.

Cooking Meat By Frying – In frying, the fire should be moderate so that the flame does not reach the oil or lard; otherwise, it may catch fire. For quick meals, make your fire from small, dry sticks. It is best to immerse the meat in oil or lard as they are fried, and let the fat boil until little jets of smoke arise, then turn once. Remove when done and place it on coarse paper that will absorb the fat or hang to drain.

Three stones make a satisfactory support for your pot or frying pan.

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Lard used for frying fish should not be used again for anything but for frying fish. Surplus fat can be kept in a sealed can. Don't keep used lard too long as it will make food hard to digest. Cooking Meat By Broiling – Tender meat should either be broiled or roasted before a hot bed of coals. These processes preserve the flavor of the meat and even add to it the aromatic bitter taste of fire. Moisten the meat frequently with melted butter or fat as you roast it to keep the surface flexible and to get the desired degree of browning.

Thick logs may be used. Cut the meat at least an inch thick. Use only the tender pieces for broiling. Broil before the fire, not over it, and do not season until it is done. Charcoal Broiling – Make a good charcoal stove from half of a five gallon kerosene can. Punch holes on the sides for air. Place can over rocks. Start fire with wood shavings. In about 15 minutes, you will have a bed of coals suitable for broiling.

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A single stick may also be used to and your pot over the fire. Roasting – This is done by direct heating on a spit or before a bed of charcoal. Build a large fire against a wall of rocks which will reflect the heat. Sear the roast in the flames for a while, then hang the roast before the fire by using a stout wet cord or small vine and turn it occasionally. Sprinkle the meat with flour just before it is done.

A reflector can be used to roast meat or fish or to make bread. Another way is to get a chicken, preferably a small broiler, whose feathers have been plucked. After it has been cleaned, season it side and out by rubbing with a little salt mixed with bacon grease or butter. Spit it on a long clean stick.

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Bread can be made in camp in the form of a twist. For kabab, alternate onions, meat, and tomatoes on a skewer then place over hot coals. Turn to broil evenly. Camote or potatoes can be baked under or over live coals.

Then arrange the spit on forks before a reflector fire or above a good sized bed of hot coals. Turn constantly until the outside is deep brown. The broiling, however, should be slow enough to permit the chicken to cook through prior to its turning brown. Of course you have tasted lechon. It is one of our most famous native delicacies, but if you are out camping with your Patrol or Troop, why not try kabob? It is a delicious dish with a Persian name; and although it sounds exotic, the manner of preparation is quite simple. Here is how it is done: Prepare a skewer from a long straight stick. Then cut meat into one-inch squares. Peel onions, cut them lengthwise through the middle, and separate the leaves, String meat and onions alternately onto the stick. After that, add slivers of bacon, quarters of small tomatoes, slices of cucumber or pieces of green pepper between the squares of meat and onions. Place the skewer next to the fire on two small forked sticks. While broiling, turn the skewer repeatedly. But if you wish to have soup with your fish or meat, you can boil, parboil or stew it in a bamboo tube. You can also have your pick of many native dishes like paksiw, cosido, sinigang, ginataan, pinakbet, pesa, cooked in the same manner.

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Vegetables can be cooked very easily by boiling or steaming them in a bamboo tube or in a tin can, or they can be cooked with fish, meat or poultry. Another very simple way of cooking them, particularly young camote leaves, is by placing them on top of half cooked rice, that is after the froth and water have been removed from rice that is cooking. When they are tender, they can be removed. Then add seasoning to taste. CLEAN UP: Dispose of garbage in proper manner: put out cooking fire, clean up the site thoroughly. It is not only a matter of pride but also an obligation for Scouts to leave their camp site better than when they found it. You and your Patrol or members of some other Units may want to camp there again. But if you leave unburned garbage, flies and other undesirable animals which are readily attracted by such mess will make your camp site useless for further camping purposes for a long time to come. Discarded cans and bottles will not only prove hazards to human beings but also to some poor innocent animals. You will not be only doing a disservice to your Patrol or to other Scout campers, but the owner or caretaker of the land, if it is owned privately, will not be very well disposed to make you camp there again another time. Therefore, try to remember that whenever a Scout breaks camp he always leaves the camp site better than when he found it. The following are important points to bear in mind when breaking camp: 1) DISPOSE of GARBAGE IN THE PROPER MANNER – All garbage and rubbish should be buried. If you bury them without burning them first, you cannot be sure that you have disposed of all of them very safely because some animals may dig them up and expose them again to flies and other pests. Empty tin can and/or bottles should be dumped in the nearest dumping site.

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2) CLEAN YOUR UTENSILS – First, scrape any leftover food from them; then wash them with hot soapy water. Rinse and dunk them in boiling water or dry them over a fire. Dishwater should be poured into a firehole, a small hole you have built near your fire.

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3) PUT OUT FIRE – The camp fire should be put out before leaving the site. Logs and sticks should be soaked in a pail of water. Sprinkle water on the embers. This puts out fire quicker and safer than pouring or dousing. The earth around the fire should also be drenched with water.

Never build your fire against a rotten log or stump. If there is no water readily available, you can put out your fire with sand, gravel, or loose earth. Spread them over the embers and then stamp on them to insure complete smothering. Finally, cover the place with dirt or bury the wet ashes. Or, if you had stacked the sod where you had built your fire, replace it after your fire is completely out. Then sprinkle some more water on the sod.

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4) CLEAN UP THE SITE THOROUGHLY – After all garbage and rubbish have been properly disposed of, put out the fire and make sure that the fire site is covered with sod. Look around for more things to clean up. Erase all possible signs of human use. For example, if you have made a ground bed of boughs, leaves or grass, scatter them so that they if will decay more quickly. Also, fill all ditches and holes and cover all places where sod had been removed. If you plan to return to the campsite in the near future, stack up all your unused firewood, poles and stakes in an open place for your use when you come back.

ESTIMATING HEIGHTS, WIDTHS, AND DISTANCES During your hikes, in camp and at home, there will be many occasions when you need to know the heights or distances of certain objects. At home, for example, you may be asked by your parents to chop down a tree in your yard. A short distance from the tree is a fence. Your problem is: will the tree fall short of the fence or will it strike the fence in falling?

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How would you go about solving this problem? You could climb the tree up to its highest point and drop a line down to the ground to measure its height. But you can use this method only in a few cases; even so, it is laborious and time consuming. As a Scout, your knowledge of judging techniques will help you solve this and similar problems, which you will meet in daily life. For instance, you are on a hike with your fellow Scouts and along the way, you come to a river. You know you can swim 100 yards, but how would you find out the width of the river? Distances over water are tricky to judge. Or perhaps the river is not too wide and you have friends on the opposite bank. You want to throw a rope to them, but how can you be sure that your rope is long enough to reach the other bank? Again your ability to estimate distances accurately will make things easier for you. As a Scout, your knowledge of the techniques in determining heights, widths or distances, and at least the mastery of one, will enable you to be prepared. A Scout must be prepared to judge quickly and accurately because in cases of emergency, a short rope or a branch of a tree which is too short may mean the loss of life. Many accidents are caused by faulty judgment of distances. However, before learning some judging tricks, you must know something about the standards of measurement now in use in our country. In measuring weights, capacities, distances, and heights, the Metric System is used. The height of a person is usually given in centimeters. In athletic contests such as high jump, shot put, or javelin throw, the Metric System is used. As a Scout, you should try to follow the system which is in common use. Your Personal Measurements By this time you should have known the length of your usual step. This is an important personal measurement because you can always make use of it not only for finding distances but also for determining heights and widths of certain things. There are other measurements that will be helpful to you: those based on your person, that is, your personal measurements. They serve as your ruler at all times. Learn two of these measurements at a time, and always make use of them. That's the way to remember them. Check your measurements every six months, because they change as you grow older. Next find a standard distance on your body which measures exactly one inch or 2.540 cms., for example the length of one of your finger joints. Then find another which measures exactly one foot or 30.48 cms. It may be the length of your shoe, or your arm from your elbow to a point on your hand. Finally, find one which measures exactly one meter. It may be the distance from outstretched fingertips to your chin or opposite shoulder. It may be of help later on if you can also find one yard or 0.9144 meters.

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MY PERSONAL MEASUREMENTS

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MEASURING HEIGHTS There are several methods of measuring heights which you can learn. To find the height of a tree, for example you can use any of the following methods: Pencil Method Let a friend whose height you know, stand against the trunk of the tree which you are measuring, or mark your own height on the trunk of the same tree. Or you may also use a scout staff or a pole of known length. Step back away from the tree and hold a pencil or a small stick before you in your outstretched hand. With one eye closed, measure off on the pencil or stick with your thumbnail the height of your friend, or of the staff, or whatever you have chosen to stand against the tree. Then find how many times the same measurement goes into the height of the tree. Multiply the height of your friend or the length of the staff used by the number of times your thumbnail measurement on the pencil or stick goes into the tree and you will get the height of the tree.

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Tree-Falling or Lumberman's Method Hold a stick upright in your outstretched hand. Stand away at a distance and sight against the tree you want to measure, until the tip of the stick covers the uppermost part of the tree and your thumb its foot or base on the ground. Hold on to this thumb measurement and bring down the stick 90 degrees so that it is parallel to the ground. Take note of the point where the tip of your stick hits the ground. From this point, find the distance, by the length of your step or by any other means, to the foot of the tree to get the height of the tree.

Shadow Method (This method can be used only if the sun is in position to cast a shadow). (1) Measure the length of the shadow cast by a Scout or staff of known height (CD in the illustration). (2) Measure the length of the shadow of the tree (AB). (3) Divide the distance in (2) by the distance in (1). (4) Multiply the result by the known height. This is the height of the tree.

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Inch-to-Foot Method (l) From the foot of the tree you are measuring, walk eleven units (each unit a certain number of steps). (2) At this point, post a staff or stick on the ground. (3) Continue walking one unit farther; mark this spot. (4) Lie down. (5) Sight, with your eye close to the ground, from the mark you have just made, to the top of the tree. (6) Take note of the spot where your line of sight cuts the staff or stick. (7) The distance of this point spot from the ground in inches is the height of the tree in feet.

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Muddy-Water Method Place a basin with muddy water on the ground between you and the tree you are measuring. Step back from the basin a distance equal to your eye-height (the height from the ground to your eyes). If you see the top of the tree reflected in the water, the distance from the basin to the foot of the tree is equal to the height of the tree. If you cannot see the reflection of the top of the tree move the basin further away from the tree until you can see the reflection from the position which is equal to your eye-height.

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Staff Method (1) Post a staff of known height some distance (B) away from the tree whose height you want to know. (2) Lie down. (3) With one eye as close to the ground as possible, (A) sight towards the tree. (4) At the point where you can sight the top of the tree and the staff together, mark the spot on the mound where your eye made the sighting (AC). (5) Measure the distance from this point to the foot of the tree (AC). (6) Measure the distance from your eyes to the foot of the staff (AB). (7) Divide (AC) by the distance (AB). Multiply the result by the height of the staff. This is the height of the tree. Triangle Method (1) Make a square out of a piece of thick paper or cardboard. (2) Fold it to make a right triangle. (3) With one hand, suspend it by a nail; to make it steady, weight it down with a stone attached to a piece of string. (4) Locate a position where, by sighting along the side of the triangle (called “hypotenuse” in geometry), you can see the top of the tree. (5) Find the distance of your position to the foot of the tree. (6) Add the height of your eye from the ground. The sum of AB and your eye height is the height of the tree.

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MEASURING WIDTHS Here are some simple ways to find the width of a river.Napoleon Method (Usually used if the river is narrow.) (1) Stand erect on one shore or bank of the river. (2) Bend your head so that your chin rests on your chest. (3) Push your hat forward until the front edge of the brim seems to touch the opposite shore. (If you have no hat, place your hand on your forehead, palm down, so that the edge of your palm seems to touch the opposite shore). (4) Standing on the same spot, turn 90 degrees to the right. (Make a right face) (5) Transfer the point on which the brim of your hat or the edge of your hand which seemed to touch the opposite bank to a spot on the ground on your side of the river. (6) Stride it off and find the distance.

Stride or Step-Measuring Method (Usually used if the river is wide) (1) Select any point (A) on the opposite side of the river which can serve as a landmark – a tree, a rock, etc. (2) Place a stake (B) on your side of the river exactly opposite the point (A) you have selected. (3) Walk a straight line along the shore for a distance of 100 steps. (More may be necessary if river is very wide. Your path should make a right angle with the imaginary line AB.) (4) Place another stake at this spot (C). (5) Continue walking along the shore on the same line (BC) half as many steps as you have made before (in this case, 50). (6) Place another stick on the spot indicating the fiftieth step (D). (7) From point D, turn left 90 degrees (make a left face). (8) Walk a straight line (your path should make right angle with the line DB) until you can sight point C and landmark A forming a straight line. (9) Stop and mark this point E. The distance between points D and E is half the distance across the river. (10) Walk from D to E, counting your steps. (11) Multiply this by the length of your step and the result by two. This is the width of the river.

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Eye-Stick Method Hold a stick with your outstretched hand and place the tip of the stick against the bridge of your nose. With one eye closed, measure the distance from your eyes to your outstretched hand. Pick out two points on the river bank opposite each other. Hold the eye-stick in a horizontal position so that your outstretched arm and the stick forms a right angle. Step back along the shore until the tip of the eye stick and the point marked by your hand cover the distance across the river between the two points on the river bank. Find the distance from where you stand to the point on your side of the river and you will get the width of the river.

MEASURING DISTANCES First, pace off 20 meters. Then pick out objects which are of the same distance. After practicing judging short distances, gradually extend the length. By increasing the distance ten meters at a time you can gain familiarity with any reasonable distance: a hundred, a hundred and fifty or two hundred meters can be estimated. Perspective will play tricks on you at first. It will look as if the second, the third, and the fourth fifty meters are shorter than the first. But after some practice you will be able to judge correctly. You must remember that the distance is judged from the eye to the object without taking into account the contour of the intervening ground. The following are some helpful hints in judging distances which have been adapted from Lord Baden-Powell's Scouting for Boys: The range of object is usually overestimated: When kneeling or lying; When the background and the object are of familiar colors; On broken ground; In avenues, long streets, or ravines;

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When the object is under the shade; In the mist or falling rain, or when heat is rising from the ground; When the object is partly seen.

The range of object is usually underestimated: When the sun is behind the observer; When the atmosphere is clear; When the background and the object are of different colors; When the ground is level; When looking over water or a deep chasm; When looking upward or downward.

It is worthwhile to know and remember the following facts: At 50 yards the mouth and eyes of a man can be clearly seen; At 100 yards the eyes appear as points; At 200 yards buttons and any bright ornament can be seen; At 300 yards the face can be seen; At 400 yards the movement of the legs can be seen; At 500 yards the color of clothes can be seen.

OBSERVATION ACTIVITIES Observing People Get into the habit of studying people without their knowing it. Notice their clothing, the way they hold themselves when they walk, their manners. Then try to figure out what some of the people you meet on the street do for a living. Here's a little observation test right off the bat. You have seen men and women, boys and girls all your life but have you noticed some of the ways in which they behave differently? Look at your finger nails. In doing so, you are pretty certain to hold your hand, palm up, and bend your fingers toward you. Does your mother do it that way? She may once in a while, but she is much more apt to turn her hand over, palm down, fingers straight out to look at her nails. When you sit down at the table, you pull the chair closer by reaching between your legs and taking hold of the front of the seat; a woman takes hold of the sides of the chair with both hands to pull it forward. A man strikes a match by rubbing it toward him; a woman usually rubs it away from her. An elderly lady was struck by a hit-and-run driver in a large town some time ago. Lots of people witnessed the accident and rushed to help her. Yet few could agree on the color of the car that struck her and none had noticed its license number. Some day you may be called upon to be a witness before a law court in a case like that. What kind of a Witness will you make when they swear you in to tell the truth and nothing but the truth? A good one if you have learned to observe, interpret, and remember.

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Training for Observation A good way to train yourself is to follow the example of Kim the famous character created by Kipling. Kim was a boy in India being trained for secret service work. Fifteen stones were heaped on a tray. Kim looked at them, then tried to remember them. He wasn't too good at it. A Hindu child, already trained, showed him off. The two tried again, this time using odds and ends. Again, the child won. Even blindfolded and permitted to feel the things once only with fingers, the child was better at it than Kim with his eyes open. So Kim trained himself by the game we now know as Kim's Game. He got a friend to put a number of articles on a table covering them with a cloth. The cover was lifted for one minute while Kim looked, then put down again. Kim became so good that he could remember all the items and describe them in detail.

Well, play “Kim's Game” yourself at a Patrol meeting, using twenty four small articles, uncovering them for one minute. To be good, you should remember at least sixteen of them. Be Observant When you are out on a hike with your Patrol, get to notice things. The cars that pass by; the side roads you pass; the people you meet, peculiar features of the landscape; good camp sites; the signs of animals. As a Scout you should make it a point of honor to see and observe more than the average person. When you're on a commando hike with the Troop, learn to scan the ground in front of you to see if anyone is hidden there. Let your eyes roam slowly in a half-circle from right to left over a narrow strip of land directly before you. Then sweep them from left to right over the ground farther away. By continuing in this way you can cover the whole field thoroughly. At night, you'll see more if you lie low and observe against the sky. Any passerby will show up sharply. If you want to observe a distant object, don't look directly at it, but slightly to one side and you'll see it much better. There's a blind spot in the human eye, and if the object you're watching is focused on that spot, you can't see it.

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On a moonlit night, observe with the moon behind you, if possible. Keep yourself in the shadow of a tree or a bush. Don't show any light at night. Your Other Senses Seeing is not the only sense that's of value to you. You should train your other senses, too: your hearing, feeling, smelling, tasting. At night you'll often have to trust your hearing more than your sight. Get accustomed to the sounds of the night: The rustle in the trees, the babble of a brook, the whistle of the wind, the croaking of frogs, the sound of a passing train. Then, when you hear unusual sounds, you'1l immediately be on the alert. Stop often and listen. Concentrate all your attention. Remember that sounds carry much farther at night than they do in the daytime, especially with the wind. For that reason you're apt to underestimate the distance. Footsteps, for example, sound much closer than they actually are. To hear even better, lie down and put an ear to the ground. Feeling will aid you, too, at night. Even through heavy soles you'll know when you are off the forest path on which you have been walking. You can feel with your feet whether you are on a concrete road, a hard-surfaced road, a dirt road. During the Boer War, the famous American Scout, Frederick Burnham, was sent back for reinforcements through a pitch dark night. He found his way by feeling with his fingers along the ruts made the day before by the supply wagons of his regiment. Sometimes your sense of smelling will help you. Often people give themselves away by the smoke of their cigarette, the perfume of their hair tonic. You may locate a camp by the smoke from a camp fire. Taste – Well, tasting may never help you so much in your fieldwork. Yet they say that certain South American cowboys can tell where they are by tasting the soil. Our own pioneer forefathers determined from the taste of the soil if it was fertile enough to make it worth while settling on it. Try Your Hand At These: Copy the following no a clean sheet of paper. Check each item you've done. 1. Have a stranger come to a Patrol meeting, stay for a few minutes, then leave. Write down a description of him from memory. 2. Play Kim's Game often, at Patrol meetings, writing down items remembered. Who's the Patrol champion? 3. Haunted House – Put up blanket in corner of Patrol den. Have someone make different noises behind the blanket for the rest to figure out, such as hammering nail, sawing wood, counting coins, striking match, and so on. 4. Whose Nose Knows? Seat fellows in line. Blindfold them. Pass down the line paper cups containing such articles as orange rind, crushed onion, pepper, cinnamon, coffee, kerosene-soaked rag. Afterward each Scout writes down list. 5. Feel It – Similar to 4, but feeling such articles as Scout Badge, closed Scout knife, spoon, pencil, button, etc. 6. On night hike, find out over what distance you can hear a person whispering, digging with a shovel, walking over what distance you can see a lighted match, flashlight. 7. The Leaking Backpack. Arrange various articles, not too conspicuously, along one side of path. Have Patrol pass slowly down the path, single file. Have each Scout write list of items observed.

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NATURE STUDY Nature and Observation You may be a pretty good outdoorsman. Perhaps you may have lived the greater part of your life on a farm and you may have explored pretty thoroughly the forests and valleys in your locality. But have you ever tried to stalk a wild animal until you got close enough to see what it was doing? That is something that takes patience and skill. But before you dash out to stalk any wild animal in a sort of haphazard manner, armed only with your skill and enthusiasm, it is best to remember that nature makes the rules of the game she plays; and to win, Scouts must play according to these rules. It is much easier to know where and when an animal is most likely to be found. For example, if you are not in Mindoro, it will be useless to look for a Tamaraw. The same thing will be true if you will try to look for a Philippine eagle, a tarsus monkey, or a Philippine cobra in places where they are not found. You will learn also that even among such generally well distributed animals as deer, wild hogs, wild chickens, and civets, there are places too, where they are seldom, if ever, found. And not only that. There are seasons also when, as in the case of some birds, they can only be found in certain localities. Also, there are certain times of the day which are most favorable for observing the habits of certain animals.

The whole thing boils down to the consideration of place and time as the two most important factors in observing and understanding Nature. The first place is, generally, referred to by naturalists as habitats. Just as every Scout belongs to a certain community, so does every animal insects, fishes, reptiles, birds, or mammals. These communities are the habitats referred to by naturalists. Habitats or communities are roughly divided into the following: (1) water; (2) marshes or swamps; (3) grasslands; (4) forests or woods; (5) deserts or seashores; and (6) mountain tops. Habitats, however, are not made up only of all living things in a certain place, the so-called plant and animal life, but also conditions such as land, water, air, light and temperature.

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The observing Scout will do well by learning to associate certain animals with certain habitats. Knowledge of what animals eat will be of the utmost importance to him in his Nature observation. Some animals depend wholly upon plants for their food, others eat other animals. Some may eat both plants and animals. For example, the likeliest places to watch for kingfishers or seagulls are near streams or the sea coast. If he wants to find bees or butterflies, it will save a Scout both time and effort if he were to locate flower bearing plants. Besides the eating habits of animals, the Scout should try to learn and remember also what types of shelters or covers different animals prefer. Knowledge also of the nesting habits of birds, the spawning habits of fish, the way mammals bear and take care of their young will prove very useful. But the easiest way to discover an animal is to go to its home, for the Scout soon learns that every animal has a home. Some animals live in holes in the ground, others in log walls. Some live under tree barks, others nest in the branches of trees. The second most important factor in observing and understanding Nature as we have noted is time. This explains why certain species of birds like the Mayas are only found in certain localities during some particular season of the year.

However, we do not have extremes in temperature during the various seasonal changes and thus we do not have animals that are migratory nor those that hibernate. Nevertheless, a Scout observer who is out to look for birds, fish and other animals can do well to remember that changes in temperature also regulate their habits. Some animals prefer hot places; others, cold ones; and the Scout who is successful in his Nature adventuring comes to know these preferences. For example, fish feed only at certain temperatures. Some birds can best be observed in the early morning before the sun is high in the sky. Turtles and snakes most frequently can be found sunning themselves on logs or rocks. Still other animals, like owls and civets, are more active at night. The first step is to find out what animals are found in your locality and learn their habits. Then, when you are hiking, you will know where and when and how to look for them. When you are out, it becomes mostly a matter of keeping your eyes wide open. Look for signs all around you: for tracks, burrows or dens, runways, feeding places, and spots where animals come down to drink. And when you have discovered their haunts you can hide nearby best at dusk or early in the morning and you will have a good chance to see them. In everyday life people have to rely a great deal for their existence on their power of observation. We have biologists, physicists, technicians, criminologists, and others who have, through years of training, developed their powers of observation to the highest degree of acuteness and accuracy that the human senses can be capable of. You must have heard of people also who have more or less mastered the

228 technique of accurate observation although they may never have gone to school. To this class belong many small sari-sari store owners, fishermen, hunters. But whether one is a very eminent biologist or a worthy follower of Sherlock Holmes or just a poor ignorant hunter, the success or failure of any of his undertakings largely depends upon the accuracy of his observation and judgment. At night you will often have to trust your hearing more than your sight. If, for example, you are out trailing or stalking at night, be sure to stop often and listen. Concentrate all your attention. To hear even better, lay down and put an ear to the ground. You will have to remember also that sound carries much farther in the night than they do in the daytime. And for that reason you will be apt to underestimate distances. Feeling will greatly help you too at night. Your hands, even your feet, will make you aware if you are still on or off the trail even though the night is very dark. Philippine Birds In this country, we have about 128 species and sub-species of birds representing different sizes, colors, and appearances. From observation of these species, each of which may consist of several thousands of individual birds, the Scout has a wide chance to study their various characteristics.

Birds offer us varying forms of benefits according to their characteristics, plumage, notes or sounds they make, usefulness, and habits. By being able to identify individual species, we learn to distinguish one from the other, and gain knowledge of particular benefits we derive from each. We are thus able to confine our hunting to less useful birds and leave the more useful ones unmolested. The beautiful plumes and notes of several Philippine birds have charmed many keen observers. It is no wonder, therefore, that they should be of absorbing interest to many poets and artists. Our pheasants, particularly the Palawan Peacock Pheasant (tandikan), quails (pugo), rails (tikling), gallinules (manokmanukan) and coots (ulok), pigeons and doves (bato-bato, punay), parrots (pikoy, katczla, kolasisz), bee-eaters (parik-parik), hornbills (kalaw, taliktik), ﬂy-catchers, warblers (pipit), sunbirds (pipit), orioles (Iculiawan), and many others are among the most colorful of Philippine birds. A mysterious phenomenon which presents endless wonders to many people is the migratory habits of certain birds. During certain seasons of the year, you must have noticed flocks of birds winging overhead destined for some unknown place. The snipe, the red-tailed shrike, and some wild ducks are only a few of these birds that come to the Philippines at a definite time. Consequently, many wonder 229 where they come from and where they go afterwards. Perhaps, you can solve this mystery for us someday. The most important contribution of birds to Philippine economy is their destruction of obnoxious insects and plant pests that work havoc to important crops. Without the aid of these insect-eating birds, the Philippines would be losing millions of pesos worth of plants and plant products destroyed by insect pests every year. When the Department of Environment and Natural Resources conducted a study of the food of some Philippine birds, they recovered as many as 478 harmful insects and spiders from the stomach of one bird alone. This should give us an idea of the potential value of birds in the destruction of insect pests.

The hawk feeds on field mice, snakes, frogs, decaying fish and insects. Some of them, however, are destructive to our poultry. When you go to the woods, you will find it very interesting to note the food of some birds like the black and white fantail (Maria Kapra), magpie robin (dominiko), swallows (Zayang layang), warblers (pipit), red-winged coucal (sabukot), woodpeckers (kalapintero), flycatchers, crows (uwak), weavers (maya). Many others are worthwhile observing. Boy Scouts living in the islands that form a continuous range from Palawan to Sulu, will find very attractive the sea birds which congregate in these islands. These birds which usually nest in caves are builders of the famous edible birds' nest. They are made from the salivary secretions of these birds. Game Birds Birds make good sport for game, but hunting them must be done under reasonable and legitimate conditions. For Bird Study, it is suggested that Boy Scouts hunt them with cameras. Our game birds consist of the quails (pugo), pigeons (balud, punay, bato-bato), rails (tikling), ducks (patong bundok), snipebirds. The alert Scout will be able to know their habits in a short time. He can easily find a good way of hunting them.

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Useful Birds Enemies of Insects – Following are some insect enemies in the open air: Swifts and swiftlets (langay- langayan), Asiatic swallow (layang-layang), eastern swallow (layang-layang), blacknaped flycatcher (sikwit), black and white fantail (Maria Kapra), pied chat (taeng baboy), magpie robin (dominiko), white-bellied swallow shrike (pagatpat), bee-eater (parik-parik), redtailed shrike (tarat), large-nosed shrike (tarat), etc.

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Enemies of insects on flowers, leaves and twigs of trees – Cuckoos (sabukot), black-naped flycatcher (sikwit), black and white fantail (Maria Kapra), northern willow warbler (pipit), marsh warblers (tinturiok), red-tailed shrike (tarat), silver eyes (matang dulong), sunbirds (pipit), flower peckers (pipit), tailor birds (mananahe), etc. Enemies of insects on the ground – Quails (pugo), wagtails (sunod kalabaw), skylark (tibsok), rails, etc. Birds that destroy insects in general – Quail (pugo), Egret (zagak), Bittern (bakao), Small Hawk (Lawin), Owl (kuwago), Roller (lorong-intsik), Kingﬁsher (kasaysay), Bee eater (parik-parik), Swift (langay-langayan), Swallow (layang-layang), Cuckoo (sabukot), Woodpecker (kalapintero), Pitta (liyoko), and nearly all other small birds except mannakins (maya). Enemies of Weeds – Quails (pugo), barred ground dove (Korokotok), mannakins (maya), sparrow (mayang kosta), mountain sparrow (mayang bato). Birds that protect the trees from borers, bark lice, and scale – Woodpecker (kalapintero), Guava luclac (pulanga), Flycatcher (Maria Kapra), Swallow shrike (pagatpat), Mynah (martines), Willow Warbler (pipit), Tarat and any of the birds that frequently perch near the trunk of trees. Birds that destroy rats and mice – Hawk (lawin) family; Owl (kuwago). Unfriendly Birds Enemies of grain crop – Chestnut mannakin (mayang pula), Cabanisi's mannakin (mayang maliit), mountain sparrow (mayang bato), cockatoo (katala), green parrot (pikoy), etc. Enemies of fruit trees – Oriole (kuliawan), crow (uwak), hanging parakeet (kulasisi), guava luclac (pulanga), etc. Enemies of other birds – Red-tailed shrike (tarat), large-nosed shrike (tarat), mountain sparrow (mayang bato), serpent eagle (agila), kites (lawin), etc. Our Animal Friends

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Some animals are useful in various ways. They supply people with food such as meat and milk. They also help people carry and move heavy loads. Their hides are used for making clothing or shoes. The most common of these animals are the carabao, cow, goat, and sheep. The carabao is our beast of burden. It is the farmer's helper. The farmer uses him in plowing and harrowing the field. He uses him also in transporting goods. Of course, we get beef (better known locally as carabeef) from it. The goat is another useful animal. Aside from giving us milk, it gives us meat, too. Like the carabao, the cow is also a beast of burden. It is used to pull carts, to carry people and goods. It is another source of beef. A cow costs thousands of pesos nowadays. Raising cows is, therefore, a good source of income. Another beneficial animal is the sheep. It gives us wool which is usually made into sweater and pants. It is said that dog is man's best and most loyal friend. It is a good playmate, too. It guards and protects our homes from burglars.

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The cat rids our homes off rats. It should, however, be trained not to eat food in the kitchen or on the table. Other friendly animals are the deer and the rabbit. HABITATS, CAVES, OR SHELTER When the Scout starts out in search of birds, the first question that comes to him is where to look for them. He does not simply make a rush for the woods expecting to find what he wants waiting for him. It is not as simple as that. Nature has a queer way of setting up rules and the Scout must adhere to them if he hopes to make a head way among her creatures. Birds, like man or any other creature, have homes or habitats. Their homes may be in any of the following: (1) Water, (2) marshes or swamps, (3) grasslands or prairies, (4) forests or woods, (5) deserts or seashores, etc. The Scout through observation and experience and his knowledge of nature will know where to look for a particular bird. He has to associate the natural surroundings with its possible animal population. When he goes to search in one place, he knows what to expect. By the process of elimination, he weeds out in his mind those birds which he knows will not be found in a certain place according to its natural environment. Food Birds must eat. By knowing the food of birds and where they are found, the Scout saves much time in searching places for them. If the Scout wants to find ducks, he must look for them in lakes or marshes, just as he would search for bats in caves or wait for them in his yard at night. Time or Weather We know that time and weather vary. We have rainy and sunny seasons, and we have the warm or hot and the cold or cool months. The prevalence of certain species of birds is influenced by the prevailing time or temperature and weather. There are birds that prefer the warmth of the sun, while there are those that are used to the cold. A Scout who has earned his Merit Badge on Bird Study will know what birds to expect during rainy seasons. He also knows that it is better to observe birds when they feed at early sunrise than when the sun is up, for they become less active under the heat. He also knows that birds like owls are more active at night. The Scout, therefore, must use his knowledge of Nature.

PHILIPPINE FISHES

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Two-lined Tuna

The body is elongated and compressed. Specimens found in markets of Manila weigh about 2 to 4 pounds. While this species is common in the eastern central Pacific, it is relatively rare in the Philippines. Oriental Bonito

The body is large and fusiform, especially in adults. Minute scales cover the body. The average weight of specimens obtained in the market is only about 1 pound, a rather small fish among tunas. The Martinico

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Throughout the East Indies and all the lowland regions of tropical Asia, lives a rather small fish, strictly fresh-water, about which some of the most interesting and surprising of fish stories have been told: The Martinico is of a dull green color and is rather stoutly and compactly built. It is called liwalo in Filipino, or tinikan in Batangas Province, and puyo in the Visayas. Its English name is Climbing Perch. Unlike the murrel, the climbing perch is not commonly found at high altitudes where waters are cool, so that it inhabits waters near the sea level. The Martinico has two distinct ways of getting about on land or in wet places where there is not enough water for swimming. In its ability to live in a small amount of water or to live a good while with no water at all, the climbing perch surpasses the dalag. It possesses a large mouth suggestive of its highly carnivorous tendencies. It readily, greedily, and playfully takes the bait. When sold in the markets, the fish ranges in length from 10 to 15 centimeters, and their flesh is firm, flaky, and well flavored, but they are rather too bony to be considered first class fish.

The Hito

The hito or catfish is readily recognizable by its body which is covered with a thick, slimy skin, grayish-black in color, and by the presence of four pairs of long delicate feelers or barbels that resemble the whiskers of a cat. The sense of hearing is poorly developed and its ability to feel pain is very feeble. Occasionally, albinos occur in the swamps of Bulacan, Pampanga and Tarlac. They vary in color from yellow to whitish yellow either with or without irregular dark blotches of the ordinary color. This species is found to reach a length of over 400 millimeters and occurs from the Philippines through Borneo to Sumatra and throughout the Malay Peninsula to Ceylon and Hindustan. The hito comes largely from the same sources as the dalag or murrel. It is esteemed by people of the northern, central, and western part of the Philippines. Its flesh is of good flavor and it has no bones. As table fish, the hito is seldom sold when dead and has to be brought to the market alive. It is a common household practice in some parts to keep a vat or tub filled with hito so that a constant supply is on hand. It is a must fish especially during bad weather.

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The Bangus

The bangus (chanos chanos) or milkfish is a marine and estuarine fish but is cultivated in freshwater/brackishwater fishponds. It is also found in rivers and lakes. It feeds on planktonic organisms and benthic algae. Milkfish spawns in the sea and a ripe 50 cm female can produce as much as 3,000,000 pelagic eggs. Spawning occurs during the months of March-July with its peak in April- June. Fry are collected along the coastal waters and cultured in fish ponds all over the Philippines, throughout the Indo-Pacific area. Milkfish is marketed fresh, frozen, smoked (tinapa) or canned. It is exported, either fresh or in boneless style. Smaller sizes are used as tuna bait.

The Talakitok

The talakitok (carangoides ciliarius) or long fin cavalla inhabits coastal waters and coral and rocky reefs and the juveniles occur in shallow inshore areas. It feeds on crustaceans and fishes. There is distinct pairing when mating. This fish breeds in the open sea and produces pelagic eggs.

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This fish inhabits San Miguel Bay, Camarines Sur. Throughout most warm coastal waters of the Western Central Pacific and Eastern Indian Ocean. It is a good table fish with an exquisite taste. This fish is also as good sports fish. It is marketed mostly fresh and also dried salted. The Kanduli

The kanduli (arius venosus) or veined catfish is a bottom dweller of marine waters, estuaries, and tidal rivers. It is classified as carnivorous; feeding on crustaceans, molluscs, other invertebrates, and small fishes. Eggs are orally incubated by the males. Kanduli can be found in Malampaya Outer Sound, Palawan; Manila Bay. Banka; Bintang; Sri Lanka; East Indies to the Andaman Islands; Java; Kuala Selangor, Malay Peninsula; Madagascar; Madura; Sandakan, British North Borneo; Singapore. It is utilized chiefly as food. The Tilapia

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The tilapia (tilapia nilotica) or nile tilapia is euryhaline and thrives and reproduces equally well in fresh and brackish waters up to 30 ppt salinity. It thrives at an optimum temperature between 20-35°C. Classified as omnivore, it feeds on planktons, higher aquatic plants, and artificial food like rice bran, soya, bread crumbs, boiled and chopped kangkong. The young feed on diatoms, green algae and small crustaceans; the adults feed equally on planktons, filamentous algae like Chlorophyceae, decomposing vegetable matters and supplementary feeds like rice, soya, cocoa, various flours and oil cakes. This species digs a trench on the bottom, 6 cm deep, when spawning. The male requires considerable territory which it guards, costing each intruder with hostile behavior. The female is mouth brooder with regular region when spawning. It breeds throughout the year and the annual number of spawning varies with the climate and the food. Spawning takes place during the warm season. The number of spawning is from 6 to ll with an interval of from 22 to 40 days. This fish is found throughout the Philippines, Native of Africa, the Middle East, South and Central America and introduced into many countries. It is chiefly utilized as food. ENEMIES FROM THE INSECT WORLD Rhinoceros Beetle

Adult beetle are is destructive to coconuts, boring hole into the plants to feed on the exuding sweet sap. They are dark brown covered with hard elytra. Both female and male possess horns, but they are larger on the males. At the same time there is a depression on the prothorax of both male and female.

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28-Spotted Lady Beetle

The 28 spotted lady beetle is widely distributed in the Philippines and is of economic importance. Both grub and adult are injurious to the plants. They scrape the surface of the leaf, leaving a membranous portion; thus the leaf turns yellow and dry up. Hosts –Tomato, eggplant, and other solanaceous plants. Bean Aphid

The insect sucks the juice of the leaves and stem of the host, resulting in the drying up of the infected parts which later fall off. This pest is widely distributed. In its adult stage, it is relatively small, about 2.5 mm. long and l mm. wide, quite indistinguishable unless magnified. It is almost black, head very small being almost occupied by the antennae and eyes; abdomen rounded being smaller posteriorly ending in a small knoblike structure called cauda on both sides of which are two curnicules used for sensation; legs slender, yellowish and is 5 segmented. Host – Most legumes. Control measures – Use contact poison and eradicate the ants that transfer them.

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Rice Stem Borer

The rice stem borer is one of the most destructive enemies of rice in the Philippines. In the rice fields all over the islands, the pest is evidenced by the presence of the large number of white empty panicles. The adult borer is yellowish white in color and the presence of dark spot on the lower angle of the forewing is an identifying feature. The life history varies from 84 to 90 days. Host – The only known host so far is the rice plant. Some control measures: 1) Clean culture – burning of the rice fields after harvest is important; 2) Dissolving derris powder in the paddy water to kill the larvae in the tunnels; and 3) Light-trapping – catching the adults by means of light.

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Coconut Leaf Miner

The coconut leaf miner is by far considered to be the most destructive pest of the coconut industry in the Philippines. Host – The coconut is the most important host of the pest with the other palms as possible alternate hosts in the absence of the former.

Cabbage Moth

The larvae eat the leaves and in heavy infestation they defoliate the plant.

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Squash Beetle

This insect is widely distributed in the Philippines and Indo-Malayan countries and is a serious pest of cucurbitacenous plants such as squash, upo, melon, and cucumber. Some wild cucurbits are also attacked by this pest.

WOOD LORE

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During your camping trips, you will have a wonderful opportunity to commune with nature. You will come to realize that the living things around you are not useless but on the contrary can help you very much while you are outdoors. Take for example the trees or shrubs around your camp. They give you shelter against the wind provide you with fuel and wood for your camp gadgets. Since they can be of much help, you will want to learn more about them. As you can observe, the Philippine soil, whether lowland or upland, abounds with varied tropical trees and plants. Since the Philippines is mainly an agricultural country, plant life plays a significant part in Filipino economic and agricultural life. Unfortunately, although the Filipinos are highly dependent on trees and plants and their products for their existence, comparatively few people really know much about Philippine trees and plants. The value of trees and plants as a source of pleasure and income cannot be estimated in terms of money alone. Trees provide us with food and shelter, prevent floods, conserve the soil, and as wood, provide us with various products ranging from match sticks to clothing.

Philippine Trees

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Identifying Trees Common sense will tell you that trees thrive according to climate, soil, and other conditions of the locality. Certain trees will grow only in one place while others flourish in several places. There are trees that are native only to your place because your town may have a climate not existing elsewhere. First, become familiar with the trees that grow only in your locality. If you do not know their names, ask your Troop Leader or anyone else who knows.

The problem of identification, once solved, is the gateway to varied interesting discoveries about plants and plant life. Good advice to follow: collect whatever specimens you can and submit them to a botanist who is familiar with the general flora of the region. If you find yourself studying a single natural group, better consult a specialist.

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Considering the tremendous development in both genera and species of Philippine plant life, the matter of identification becomes all the more significant. Incidentally, the commercial importance of Philippine orchids draws crowds of botanists and florists into the study of, and quest for, many varieties of this flower. Kinds of Trees Trees are large and woody plants. Some trees grow as high as 100 meters with trunks ten meters in diameter. When trees live in a common habitat and grow together in large numbers, we have what is known as a forest. The Philippines was itself a forest country before its people began to cut the trees down for building their homes, for furniture and fuel. There are innumerable kinds of trees found in the Philippines.

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The dao tree with its great buttresses; the narra tree, the molave, lauan, tangile, acacia, rubber, bangcal, pagatpat, and pine tree are only a few specimens of Philippine trees whose utility is unlimited. These trees are of common knowledge, and more of various species can be found growing in the wilderness. Shrubs Shrubs are small, woody plants growing in many sections of the country. When shrubs grow in large number they form a thicket. Shrubs with many trunks are called bushes. A typical example of a bush is the sampaguita and the hibiscus. The kalachuchi is a kind of shrub which is more like a tree. Another plant too tall to be a shrub is the ipil-ipil.

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Palms Palms can usually be considered trees. Some palms are very tall, others are short and still others are medium in size. Among the palms found in the Philippines are the nipa, coconut, maguey, buri, traveler's palm, and abaca.

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Fiber Plants The rope with which you tie knots is made of strong fibers extracted from plants. The abaca, which is widely known in the Bicol provinces and in Davao, produces the strongest known fiber for rope. Although fiber is found in almost any kind of plant, abaca is one of the few grown only for their fiber.

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Ranking in commercial importance among Philippine fibers is the abaca. Maguey, buri, pineapple (Pinya), siling pugo, and hinguio are of comparatively lesser importance, although they have many useful products. Buntal hats are made from buri, pinya cloth from pineapple fiber, sinamay cloth from maguey, and coarser ropes from wild vines such as the silong pugo and hingulo.

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Plants of the Seashore The vegetation of the seashore is relatively poor in varieties of plants. The plants of the seashore, like those of the mangrove swamps, have fruits or seeds especially adapted to dissemination by floating in salt water. Some of the trees are found immediately back of the beach on tropical seashores throughout the world.

The seacoast vegetation consists of trees (some of large sizes), shrubs, woody vines, and herbs. These plants live in a distinctly favorable environment in the presence of salty or brackish water. Where seashore forests exist, they are generally not as dense as those of the inland secondary forests or the borders or primary forests along inland strips. The Palo Maria belongs to the mangosteen family. It always grows immediately back of sandy beaches. When the bark is cut, a sticky, yellowish sap comes out. The leaves are opposite, very leathery, smooth and glossy. The clusters of white flowers are attractive. The fruit is smooth, rounded, and contains one seed. The timber of this tree is distinctly hard and heavy and is of commercial importance. The thin, rounded shells of the seeds are used as containers for buri sugar sold as sweets.

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The Botong is often found growing together with the Palo Maria. It is a very bushy tree with a large crown often as large as the Palo Maria. The leaves are much larger than Palo Maria, glossy and slightly fleshy. The flowers are very large with numerous pink stamens. Its fruit is large, sharply four-angled, and contains a single large seed. The fruit has a thick, fibrous wall and is distributed by floating in salt water. The Kolung-Kolung is a medium-sized tree. The leaves are alternate, smooth, fleshy, with smooth margin. Frequently the stalk is attached to the margin. The flowers are about one centimeter wide and whitish. The fruit reminds one of a Japanese lantern in that a single black seed is enveloped in a loose, free, whitish, somewhat fleshy cover with a round opening at the top. It is rather spongy and this particular feature adapts it to dissemination through the agency of ocean currents. The Talisay is also known as the Indian Almond. This is also a very common strand tree. The leaves are fairly large, obovate in shape. At maturity many of the leaves turn red before falling. The flowers are small and whitish. The fruit is somewhat flattened, ellipsoid in outline, with two prominent keels along the sides, reddish and 3 to 6 centimeters long, and contains one single edible seed of good flavor. It is cultivated as a shade tree.

The Dap-dap is a tree belonging to the bean family. The leaves are more or less obovate triangular in shape and are attached to the branchlets in threes. When in bloom, this tree is generally without leaves. You can easily spot these on account of the dense clusters of large, bright, red flowers. The Agoho tree, in form and appearance, suggests the pine, but its numerous, slender, jointed, green branches function as leaves and its wood is very hard. It is known in Australia as the She Oak.

Shrubs, Small Trees, and Wood Plants The Pandan is most common along the seashore, often forming dense thickets immediately back of the sandy seashore. It is a small tree particularly characterized by the presence of prop roots. These are necessary contrivances to support the plants in muddy shores on account of the heavy crown. The trunk is branching. The leaves are long and pointed and arranged in a distinct spiral at the tips of the relatively few branches, and the margin is sharply toothed. The orange red fruit is large, ellipsoid to globose, and contains 50 to 75 fibrous, fleshy drupes. The pandan leaves are split into strips and used for making mats, hats, and baskets.

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The Malabago is a medium-sized, much-branched tree belonging to the gumamela family, usually found back of the beach and sometimes forms dense thickets inland. The leaves are broadly heart shaped and hairy beneath. The flowers are large, yellow, with a purple center, turning reddish when they get old. The plant is widely used as a fiber plant.

The Buta-Buta is a small tree growing in firm mud or sand at the edge of the mangrove swamp. The leaves are smooth, entire, and shiny. The flowers are very small. This tree should be avoided as much as possible because its abundant milky sap is very poisonous, and especially dangerous if brought in contact with the eyes. It causes intense inflammation and has been reported as causing blindness. The Lagundi is a large branched shrub. It is generally found in inland thickets and back of beaches. The leaves are opposite, and with five leaflets which are palmately arranged. The flowers are fairly small. The fruit is small and rounded. Mangrove Forests Mangrove forests are characteristic types of vegetation in the mangrove swamps. Trees actually grow in salt or brackish water. The trunk of the tree is often supported by prop roots. Sometimes, mangrove forests are made up of a single species; unlike most forests which are made up of different kinds of trees. The forest is relatively dense, for the trees stand fairly close together. At maturity, the trees are of a uniform height and the thick, glossy, evergreen leaves form a rather dense canopy. There is practically no undergrowth in such forests.

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In the mangrove forests, one finds dense stands of individual trees such as the mangrove tree (Rhizophora) and back of certain sandy beaches, usually narrow strips of Agoho trees (Casuarina). The Bakawan (Rhizophora), Busain (Brugicra), and Tangal (Cerions) are among the few kinds of trees growing in mangrove forests. Other mangrove trees which are classified as secondary are the tabigi, pagatpat, dungon or dungon-late, api-api, and nilar or nilad. The Tabigi is a type of mangrove tree which has smooth bark and large fruit of about six inches in diameter. The fruit looks like cannon balls with few, corky seeds. The Pagatpat tree is characterized by fleshy leaves, peculiar fruit, and air roots protruding from the mud. Dungon or Dungon-late is a tree that has silvery leaves beneath and boat-shaped, brown fruit.

Trees and Shrubs with Edible Fruits or Seeds Talisay – This tree is common along the seacoast, and is characterized by fairly large leaves, slender spikes of small flowers, and red compressed fruits about an inch long. The seed contained in the fruit is excellently flavored. Pili – This is a giant tree commonly found in dense growth. The fruit contains a well-flavored seed which may be eaten raw or cooked. The flesh of the fruit outside the nut is also eaten when cooked. Other wild growing plants like the guava and the papaya are easily recognizable. The large juicy fruit known as cashew can also be found growing in dense growth. The basal part of the fruit may be eaten ripe, but the seed must be cooked because the sap may cause bad skin eruptions unless boiled or roasted. Avoid standing in the steam or smoke while cooking the seed. Other sources of food in the wilderness are wild bananas, malunggay, katuray, coral tree or dapdap. Wild sweet potato and squash can also be found growing in forested lands.

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Rattan – You will note that the base of the rattan also contain appreciable quantities of starch and, similarly, may be boiled and the starch chewed out. The fruit of all the varieties of climbing rattan are edible, often delicious. Ubod – The ubod or palm cabbage is the tender growing part of the palm within the terminal crown of the leaves. This is an excellent food whether raw or cooked. The ubod of the coconut palm is such an exceptional dish that it is properly spoken of as the millionaire's salad. The same is true of the betel nut or areca palm and giant buri or gebang. Some Philippine edible fruits are the mango, banana, avocado, melon, watermelon, papaya, guava, atis, guyabano, pomelo, chico, santol, kalamansi, dalanghita, and nangka. They are important for their food and medicinal value and should form a part of your daily family's diet to maintain good health. Among the edible plants are kamote tops, kangkong, cabbage, lettuce, mustard, banana, radish, eggplant, carrot, cucumber, and potato. Most of them have also medicinal value.

AROIDS AND TUBERS Gabi – The underground part of this plant is rich in starch and is also edible, but care should be exercised in preparing it for food. Microscopic crystals that are irritating to the mucous membrane are present in the leaves. To destroy these crystals, it is necessary to slice and dry the parts, wash them thoroughly and cook them sufficiently long.

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Ube – In the forest, various species of wild yams can be found. Sometimes they grow in thickets and secondary forests. Some of these, particularly the ube, are widely cultivated for food, for their great starchy tubers with the flesh often pale purplish in color, may weigh up to forty or fifty pounds. Most of the tubers of the wild yams are edible and may be eaten with safety after cooking, but others, particularly the nami or kalut, are distinctly poisonous and may be eaten only after the thinly sliced tubers have been soaked in running water for a considerable period of time, followed by cooking. This treatment eliminates the poisonous elements.

SIGNALING

When World War II broke out, Holy Ghost Church, Manila Council Boy Scouter George Fajardo's education was interrupted. He worked as a civilian employee at the U.S. Army Quartermaster Supply Department in Port Area, Manila. On January 1, 1942, he was assigned to carry important supplies to Corregidor. As a civilian, he could have refused, but his Scouting spirit prevailed and without hesitation, he accepted the extremely dangerous task. The Americans who were patrolling that coast thought that the enemy had taken possession of the waterfront so they halted George's bamboo raft. It was very dark for it was nighttime. But George's knowledge of the International Morse Code came in handy. With his flashlight, he signaled the American that he was under orders to take essential supplies to Corregidor. He succeeded in identifying himself and was able to proceed to his destination. In this story, you find the practical use of the Morse Code

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The International Morse Code Samuel Morse invented this code consisting of dits and dashes in 1835 for use with telegraphs. You may use it in sending messages with a light (flashlight or mirror reflecting the sun), with sound (whistle or buzzer), a ham radio, or a single flag called Wigwag. For a dit, swing the flag to the right and to the left, for a dash.

INTERNATIONAL DISTRESS SIGNALS

INTERNATIONAL MORSE CODE

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WHAT TO DO DURING EMERGENCIES

Panic Prevention Panic is one of the most contagious of human emotions. Someone gets senselessly frightened, starts screaming, scaring others. They in turn take up the screaming, lose all power of reasoning, rush frantically for safety, fight like animals. The way to prevent and overcome a panic is this: BE CALM. You may be frightened yourself, but do your utmost to hide your fear, and assure people around you that if they will only take it easy, everything will be all right. Use your head. Look around you and figure out the safest way of doing what must be done. Of course, if the emergency should arise in a public building, you will already have noticed where the exits are and will have figured out a way of reaching them. In your institution and Troop room, you will simply follow the fire drill in which you have been trained.

A. What To Do During Earthquakes 1) If you are indoors, stay there! The best thing to do is to protect your body from falling debris by getting under a sturdy table or desk or by bracing yourself in the doorway or corner of the room. Be aware and stay clear of heavy and sharp materials which may fall or topple on you. Be particularly wary of glass fragments from windows, bookcases, cabinets, chandeliers, hanging plants, and lighting fixtures. 2) If you are outside, move to an open area away from power lines, posts, trees, walls and the like. Also, be aware of any debris which may fall down from high places. If the event occurs when you are amid tall buildings, find a corner, doorway or structural indentations where you can be protected from falling debris. If the earthquake occurs while you are out in the fields or forests, stay clear from steep escarpments which may be affected by landslides. 3) When driving a vehicle during the earthquake, pull to the side of the road and stop. Park away from bridges, overpasses, overhead wires, posts, and similar things which may fall unto the vehicle. If electrical wires had fallen on your vehicle, stay inside and wait for assistance. Do not attempt to cross

258 bridges or overpasses which may have been damaged by the earthquake. 4) In crowded places like stores, theaters, malls, movie houses, and churches, do not rush to the exit! Try to calm the crowd and direct them away from materials which may fall. 5) If you are residing in a coastal area, always be aware of tsunamis. If you felt an unusually strong earthquake, especially when you were able to note that the difference between the arrival times of the P and S waves is very short (less than 10 seconds), you and your family should immediately run to higher grounds.

B.What To Do Immediately After An Earthquake 1) Check yourself and others for injuries. Also check for trapped persons and others who may need assistance like disabled or sick people. 2) Wear shoes for protection. Expect floors and roads to be strewn with sharp objects and it is best to protect yourself from further accidents. 3) Use a flashlight when searching. Gas leaks, chemical spills and flammable materials always abound after earthquakes and an open flame will add to the risk of starting fires. 4) Check for fires and if any, have it controlled! Some earthquake damage had been aggravated by the occurrence of fires. In case you see a fire, locate the nearest fire control or alarm unit and use it. 5) Check your water, electrical, or gas lines for defects. If any damage is suspected, turn the system off in the main valve or switch. Before turning the lines on again, check with the utility servicemen for instructions. 6) Clean up spills immediately. Start cleaning the flammable and toxic materials first to avoid any chain of unwanted events. 7) Never touch fallen electrical wiring or objects touched by these wires. If any fallen power line is observed, fence this off to prevent others from electrocution. Inform the authorities of any power line damage. 8) Avoid using the telephone except for emergency calls. During earthquakes, communication lines will be used as information link during the warning, rescue, relief, and security operations. 9) Gather information from battery-operated radios or from victim assistance centers which the government shall provide. Do not spread or believe in rumors/hearsay. 10) Do not use your vehicle unless there is an emergency. Roads may be closed to traffic or hazards may still have to be checked along your route. Do not go sightseeing. 11) Be prepared for aftershocks. Use extreme caution when entering damaged buildings since aftershocks can bring them down. 12) Obey public safety precautions. Instructions to reduce the effects of earthquakes shall be issued by the authorities. Keep streets clear for the passage of emergency vehicles. 13) Take note of what you observe and be prepared to inform authorities of the presence of victims needing assistance, materials needing attention, and information of scientific value. l4) If you must evacuate, leave a message on where you are headed and take with you a first aid kit,

259 flashlight, portable radio, food, clothes, important papers, toiletries, personal items, and blankets. Your destination may not immediately have all the necessary items for your comfort. C. Tsunami or big waves brought about by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions under the sea or by typhoons. 1) If you are living near the seashore, move to high places at the earliest time. 2) Avoid going or taking a walk near the sea, river and seashore, because the water current might rise or become strong any moment. 3) Always listen to the radio, television for news on tsunami. 4) Keep calm at all times and listen only to the current news. D. Volcanic Eruption Citizens living near volcanoes like Mayon Volcano in Albay, Mt. Kanlaon in Negros Occidental, Mt. Bulusan in Sorsogon, Taal Volcano in Batangas, Mt. Pinatubo in Zambales and Mt. Hibok-Hibok in Camiguin are advised to observe the following: 1) Listen only to the report and order coming from the authorities. 2) Follow peacefully, orderly, and calmly the evacuation order in places that are endangered by the eruption of the volcano. 3) Bring only the important and needed things during the evacuation. 4) The eruption of the volcano might occur anytime so do not hesitate to evacuate. 5) Observe the following at the proper time: a. Lava Flows or boiling mud and burning stones. Avoid going or traveling to places of springs, marshes for these are where the boiling mud and burning stones will go. b. Ash Falls or ashes coming from the erupting volcano. [i] Cover with wet cloth, blanket or sack the roof of your house. [ii] Always clean the roof of your house because the accumulated ashes will cause the destruction and collapse of your roof. [iii] Be careful and calm in driving vehicles for the ash from the volcanic eruption will affect your eyesight while driving. c. If the eruption is under the water – avoid going or traveling to the seashore for this place may be the source of the tsunami or big waves.

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E. Blackouts or wide stoppage of electric current 1) Remain calm at all times and do not be carried by wrong news. 2) Always prepare the following: a. Candle b. Match c. Flashlight and radio with batteries d. Non-electrical cooker e. These can be used as light during blackouts 3) Remain listening to your radio for important news regarding the blackout. 4) Avoid going out of the house unless necessary. 5) Ensure the safety of the household against bad elements. 6) Switch off the electric current in your appliances. 7) Keep the lighted candles away from things that may cause fire. 8) If caught by blackout on the streets, try not to keep away from the majority and take a ride immediately at the first vehicle that may come going to your home. 9) Better still, always carry a small flashlight in your bag or pocket.

F. Typhoons 1) Remain listening to your radio/television on important news regarding the bad weather. 2) If there is a typhoon or threatening bad weather, avoid traveling to the river and riverside and seashore for there might be rising of the water and big waves. 3) Support with strong wood the windows and other parts of the house that need support. 4) Prepare food that need not be cooked like canned goods. There might be stoppage of electric current. 5) Reserve water. There might be no more water. 6) Prepare flashlight with batteries. 7) Find out if there is any part of the house that might be blown by the wind like G.I. sheets on the roofs. These are dangerous during typhoons and strong winds. 8) Keep calm at all times and listen only to news from the authorities, radio and television. G. During Typhoons, If you need to evacuate, observe the following: 1) Close all windows. 2) Cut off the electric current. 3) Close tightly the gas tank. 4) Put up the important things, property and equipment as a precaution against floods. 261

5) Close the door of the house. 6) Bring the following: a. Radio with batteries b. Candle and match c. Water and food that will last for three days d. Flashlight with batteries e. First Aid Kit f. Clothes and food of the children H. Floods 1) Pay attention to the warnings from the authorities, radio, or television. 2) If living near the river, it is necessary to move at once to high grounds to avoid the rise of water or flood. If there is no time to do that, climb a tree and remain there until help comes. 3) If there is warning on the typhoon, support or tie with ropes those that might be carried by the flow of Water. 4) Cut off the electric current. 5) Cook the food well if there is flood. 6) Boil drinking water during and after the flood. 7) Avoid leaving the house or traveling unless necessary. 8) If you need to evacuate at the time of the flood, observe the following: a. Watch out for open manholes or other places where the water flows to. If there is flood, the streets and canals are difficult to see. b. Streets going to parts of the river should be avoided. c. If ropes will be used during the evacuation, stay at the place where water comes and hold tight to the rope. One hand should always hold the rope. I. Fires If you happen to be the first to learn of the fire, you should: 1) Get the people out. Shout, hammer the door, ring the bell, bang a basin or pan to make noise, or blow a whistle. If there is an alarm system, turn it on. Assist the people in getting out of the exit advising them not to panic. 2) Call the Fire Department. You may use the telephone or the nearest fire alarm box. Tell the exact location of the fire. If you use the fire alarm box, follow the direction on the box carefully and wait for the fire engines to arrive. 3) Help in whatever capacity you may.

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At Home Never open the door right away. Feel the thinner parts of the door and door knob with your palm. If it's hot, don't open. Put something heavy in front of the door to delay the fire, then escape through the window. Take your bed sheets and blankets and tie them together like a rope to be used in going down from the window. If the door is not hot, open it slowly, keeping a foot and a shoulder braced against it so you can close it quickly, if needed. If there is thick smoke tie a wet cloth over your nose and mouth and crawl on the floor where the air is purer. Close the door behind you. Shout and assist the other members of the family to escape. Then, report the fire immediately by telephone or nearest fire alarm box before attempting to fight it. In an apartment, know where the fire escapes are and how to get to them. A Person on Fire If a person's clothes catch fire, get him quickly to the ground, roll him once, and beat out the flame slowly with your hands. Be sure that your own clothes do not catch fire. If there is a blanket or rug, wrap it around the victim to put out the fire.

If your own clothes catch fire, avoid running. Drop to the ground quickly, roll over slowly and beat out the flames with your hands. Better still, wrap a blanket or rug tightly around you. In School Observe the instructions given during fire drills. DO NOT PANIC. Listen to your teacher. You may also assist your teacher in checking the pupils after getting out of the building. See if someone else is unaccounted for. But, never get inside the burning building. Just report anyone missing to your teacher or to the responding fireman.

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HOME SAFETY CHECKLIST Nonskid Surfaces Is carpeting or the linoleum securely fastened to avoid tripping? Are all scatter rugs provided with a nonskid backing? Is a nonskid mat used in the bathtub? Are stair surfaces of nonskid material secured? Is there a securely fastened grab bar in the shower? Are outdoor walks kept free of oil, banana peelings, or other slippery things? Is grease, oil, water, and food immediately wiped up when spilled on the floor? Walking Lanes Is furniture placed so you can move freely from room to room? Are all traffic lanes, including halls and stairway free of clutter? Are steps and flooring kept in good repair? Are there railings on both sides of all stairways? Storage Is there safe and convenient storage for each of the following? Cleaning equipment (brooms, mops, cleaner) Bicycles and other large-wheeled toys Gardening tools Toys Guns and ammunition Are the following household substances stored out of children's reach? Bleaches, disinfectants, ﬂy sprays, furniture polish, etc. Weed and insect sprays and dusts, fertilizers Kerosene and other flammable materials Medicines Fix Up and Clean Up Are the yard and driveway free of holes or obstructions? Is the electric and / or gas stove cleaned and inspected annually?

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Are your rooms and closets free of accumulated papers, clothing or anything else that will easily burn? Are oily rags and other flammable substances stored in airtight containers, away from a source of heat? Do you have step stools and ladders to reach upper shelves? Is the electrical wiring in your home adequate and in good condition? Are window screens and storm windows fastened securely? Are window sills and frames in good condition, free of peeling paint? Can you see both ways where the driveway enters the street? Lighting Are the entrances to your home well lighted? Are all stairways lighted? Do all stairways have a light switch at top and bottom? Are light switches arranged so that a light can be turned on or off as you enter or leave each room? Is it possible to turn on a light from each bed, without leaving the bed? Electrical Equipment Are all electrical cords and plugs kept in safe condition? Do you understand the purpose of a fuse and how to change one? Are the use and length of extension cords kept at a minimum? Are electrical equipment such as washer, dryer, cooking range, refrigerator, etc. grounded? Do all metal pull-chain switches located near water lines have insulating links? Tools Are hand tools kept in good condition? Are you using the tools properly? Are cutting tools, including knives, kept sharp? Are power tools used only under competent supervision? Are power tools grounded? Are power tool belts, pulleys, sprockets, gears, chains, etc., guarded? Is there a neat and orderly arrangement of tools in the workshop? Are the points of operation such as circular saw blades, guarded? Are tools stored out of reach of small children? Does your family have a pair of safety goggles?

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Safe Play For Toddlers: Is there a fenced area for play (playpen, porch, yard)? Do you have safety gates at top and bottom of stairs? For All Children Is the play area free of nails, boards, glass stones, large holes, sharp objects, and standing water? Is play equipment kept in safe condition? Are all chests, closets, unused refrigerators or freezers (in which children might be locked} either ventilated or made inaccessible to children? Are washer and / or dryer fixed so small children cannot crawl into them? Do you buy safe toys? Are all toys either repaired or discarded when broken? When painting toys, furniture, and interior woodwork do you use-lead-free paint?

SERVICE TO OTHERS

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YOUR PATROL

A Patrol is a group of not more than eight Scouts belonging to a Troop, who have common interests, and usually live in the same neighborhood. The members meet regularly to plan and carryout activities under the leadership of a Patrol Leader. The members of the Patrol play and learn together. They enjoy each other's company, like to play the same games, and are concerned with each other's well-being. They are real and dependable friends. Of course, the other boys in your school and in your neighborhood may also be friendly, but it is with the members of your Patrol with whom you share many wonderful Scouting adventures. Each one of you in the Patrol has a definite assignment or position. Here are some of them: Patrol Leader He leads the Patrol. He is elected from among the members of your Patrol by the Patrol members themselves. In the case of a new Troop, however, he maybe appointed by the Troop Leader. He leads the Patrol in all its activities and assists you and the other members of the Patrol to pass the advancement requirements and earn merit badges. The Patrol Leader chooses the Assistant Patrol Leader, also from among the members of the Patrol. He assigns other duties to the rest of the Patrol members. He may appoint a Quartermaster for a single event or for a period of time. He may appoint a Patrol Scribe for three months or a Grubmaster for an evening. Thus, he gets jobs done by rotating the positions among the members of the Patrol.

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Assistant Patrol Leader Helps the Patrol Leader in his work. He takes over the Patrol leadership whenever the Patrol Leader gives him the assignment or is not available. Patrol Scribe Keeps a record of the activities and achievements, collects dues and maintains the record of the Patrol; turns over the dues collected to the Patrol Treasurer. Plans the community and service projects of the Patrol and sees to it that they are carried out successfully. Patrol Treasurer Serves as custodian of Patrol funds. Patrol Quartermaster Looks after the proper care and use of Patrol supplies and equipment. Patrol Grubmaster Takes care of the food requirements of the Patrol in all its outdoor activities. He is responsible for the upkeep and cleanliness of the Patrol corners and the Patrol site while encamped. Patrol Hike Leader Leads the Patrol in planning hikes, camps, and other outdoor activities. During hikes, he assists the Patrol Leader in giving directions and in pointing out important features of the terrain. Patrol Cheer Leader Leads the Patrol in songs and yells during meetings, inter Patrol competitions and other activities. He teaches new songs and yells to the Patrol. By keeping the Patrol members cheerful and happy, he buoys their spirit and morale. Other designations or responsibilities in the Patrol may be created and assigned as the need arises.

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YOUR TROOP

Your Troop consists of your Patrol and not more than three other Patrols. Each Patrol is normally composed of eight boys or a total of 32 Scouts in the Troop. However, the Troop should not be less than 12 Scouts. You should know very well the names of the leaders of your Troop, their positions and duties.

SCOUTING ACTIVITIES

Taking Part in an Outdoor Activity of the Troop One of the things you should do to earn your Second Class Badge is to join an outdoor activity of your Troop. This is a hike. While in the hike site with the members of your Patrol, you will learn new skills and knowledge which will be both interesting and useful to you as a Scout and when you grow up.

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When preparing for this activity ask your Patrol Leader what you should take along with you, what clothes and equipment you would need and the amount of food you should bring. Be sure to obtain your parents written permission to take part in this outing. They should know when and where you are going. You should also tell them when you are leaving and when you will return.

Patrol Meeting This is a meeting of your Patrol members presided by the Patrol Leader.

Organizing weekly meetings will develop closeness among the members of your Patrol. Your Patrol may schedule a meeting in the home of any member usually a different home, each week or at any designated place agreed upon by all the members. As your Patrol grows, you should decide to have regular Patrol meetings.

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Your Patrol should have patrol stunts ready for Troop meetings, a carefully made knot board or a number of exhibits for your patrol corners. This would make your Troop Leader feel that your Patrol is moving.

The Troop Meeting A Troop holds regular meetings. It is necessary for the Patrol to have their own corners. Games and contests are run by Patrols. This is a chance for your Patrol to bring in a new game and lead the others in playing it or hold a demonstration of its specialty, or challenge the others in a competition. A Troop meeting is necessary to hold the gang together. It develops the spirit of belongingness in one big Scouting Brotherhood and help you move towards the right direction. Urban Troops may meet in a park or vacant lot or school yard. It prepares the boys for outdoor activities such as hikes, camps to comply with their advancement requirements. If your Troop is located in a small town, you can plan to get entirely out of town for evenings of outdoor experience and fun. Patrol serving of supper can be part of the program, and you can wind up with a campfire or observing the stars and other constellations. Troop Traditions Some Troops have traditions like observing their anniversary. This is the date when they were first registered with the Boy Scouts of the Philippines. Participate in the activities to commemorate this event. One way of celebrating this occasion is through Troop or Patrol Community service like undertaking health and sanitation projects in your area. These activities may be undertaken: l) Getting rid of the breeding places of mosquitoes like ditches, old tires, cans filled with water. Secure the cooperation of the health agency in your community by providing the necessary insecticides. 2) Put up receptacles like empty drums of gasoline for garbage disposal. 3) Controlling rodent or rat, flies, or cockroaches by using rat poison, fly paper, chalk insect killer, etc. Good turns As a Boy Scout, you must always be prepared to do a good turn to anyone. It is the habit of helping others and looking for occasions to be helpful that should be developed. So, be always alert for opportunities to serve your country and your fellowmen. With the other members of your Patrol, you can do meaningful good turns to serve your fellowmen. Always be prepared for service, such as: • Plant trees • Clean up litter or rubbish • Collect paper, cans and bottles for recycling • Assist in typhoon or earthquake relief services • Guide a stranger in your city/barrio/town • Assist a handicapped person

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• Fix a child’s broken toy • Help a lady with her bundles • Give first aid to an injured person • Help a mother locate a lost child • Treat an injured pet • Lead a child cross a street • Run errands for a person who is sick • Help your parents, sisters, brothers with their chores at home • Direct traffic at a school corner • Conduct games at the children’s playground • Help train a boy in a newly organized troop • Assist in church affairs • Guide a stranger in town • Let a dog out of a trap • Stop a fight in a school yard • Give water to a crippled dog • Help the grocer recover spilled items • Help a boy retrieve a ball or a kite out of a tree • Stop a cat from killing a chicken • Put water in the chicken coop • Help a paralyzed man fix his papers • Help the cook pluck a chicken • Distribute cards for a Bible class • Participate in emergency or war time service • Carry a crippled boy’s or girl’s book for him or her • Find and return a lady’s pocketbook • Pick up nails, pieces of broken glass, and banana peelings from the street • Help put out a fire in a burning house • Bring a sick boy home on a wheelchair • Help a man with automobile trouble • Cheer someone whose dear ones died Participation in Community Projects Boy Scouts are always recognized for their services. When people see a boy rendering service in the street, the first thing that will come into their minds is that, he could be a Boy Scout. That is why a Scout must live up to this image. To enhance this image, here are some community projects that Scouts can do: • Whitewashing of dirty walls • Removing bills posted on school walls or fences • Installation of tree guards for seedlings • Peace campaign

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Respect For The Rights of Others As a Scout, many good things are expected of you. You must be proud to be a Scout who live by the Scout oath and law. You are showing the way for other Scouts to emulate your good deeds. To do these, you should respect the rights of others. How? Here are some ways where you can show respect for other peoples' rights: • Respect the religious beliefs and practices of other people. You must learn how to listen and practice how to speak properly. • Listen to reason and benefit from the wisdom of others. Each Scout in your Patrol has unique characteristics. He has his own stories to tell. You must listen to his stories so that he in turn would also listen to yours. • You must respect the suggestions of others and let them discover the product of their ideas. If necessary, you may present your ideas, too. • Learn to practice “first come first served” basis. In taking your ride, wait for your turn by following a designated lane. • Learn to appreciate the work of others. A word or two showing that you were enlightened will make your brother Scout happy so that when you may need him in the future, he will be ready to help you. • Learn to follow instructions of your leaders, especially your Patrol Leader. He is your leader and he deserves to be followed and respected. • Inform your parents where you are going and when you are returning, so that they would know of your whereabouts. • At night, modulate your voice in order not to disturb those already sleeping. Modulate the volume of your radio, stereo, or television at night time to show respect to your neighbors.

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Respect For The Property Of Others In addition to respecting the rights of others, a Scout is also expected to respect the property of others. It would be worthwhile to note that a Scout is good because he has concern and care for other's possessions. Here are some good values in respecting the property of others: 1) Practice the habit of returning things borrowed from others so that next time you need them, you can borrow them again. Make sure that borrowed things should be returned in good condition. 2) Return found articles to the rightful owners or deliver them to the Lost and Found corners. Where owner could not be located, donate them to the church or charitable institutions. 3) Place garbage in a plastic bag and deposit it in the proper disposal area to maintain cleanliness in the community. The spread of epidemic is due to careless disposal of garbage. 4) Little, small, or petty articles found, e.,g. pencil, handkerchief, slide, or any personal materials, must be entrusted to your Troop Leader. Develop an attitude of returning things that do not belong to you. 5) Do not trespass the property of others. Ask permission first before entering it.

Rights of the Child All children shall be entitled to the rights herein set forth irregardless of sex, social status, religion, and other beliefs. 1) Every child is endowed with the dignity and worth of a human being from the moment of his conception as generally accepted in medical parlance, and has, therefore, the right to exist. 2) Every child has the right to a wholesome family life that will provide him with love, care and understanding, guidance and counseling, and moral and material security. The dependent or abandoned child shall be provided with the nearest substitute for a home. 3) Every child has the right to a well-rounded development of his personality to the end that he may become a happy, useful, and active member of society. The gifted child shall be given opportunity and encouragement to develop his special talents. The emotionally disturbed or socially maladjusted child shall be treated with sympathy and understanding, and shall be entitled to treatment and competent care. The physically or mentally handicapped child shall be given the treatment, education, and care required by his particular condition. 4) Every child has the right to a balanced diet, adequate clothing, sufficient shelter, proper medical attention, and all the basic physical requirements of a healthy and vigorous life. 5) Every child has the right to be brought up in an atmosphere of morality and rectitude for the enrichment and the strengthening of his character. 6) Every child has the right to an education commensurate with his abilities and to the development of his skills for the improvement of his capacity for service to himself and to his fellowmen.

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7) Every child has the right to full opportunities for safe and wholesome recreation and activities, individual as well as social, for the wholesome use of his leisure hours. 8) Every child has the right to protection against exploitation, improper influences, hazards, and other conditions or circumstances prejudicial to his physical, mental, emotional, social, and moral development. 9) Every child has the right to live in a community and a society that can offer him an environment free from pernicious influences and conducive to the promotion of his health and the cultivation of his desirable traits and attributes. 10) Every child has the right to the care assistance, and protection of the State, particularly when his parents or guardians fail or are unable to provide him with his fundamental needs for growth, development, and improvement. 11) Every child has the right to an efficient and honest government that will deepen his faith in democracy and inspire him with the morality of the constituted authorities both in their public and private lives. 12) Every child has the right to grow up as a free individual, in an atmosphere of peace, understanding, tolerance, and universal brotherhood, and with the determination to contribute his share in the building of a better world.

Responsibilities of the Child

Every child, regardless of the circumstances of his birth, sex, religion, social status, political antecedents, and other factors shall: 1) Strive to lead an upright and virtuous life in accordance with the tenets of his religion, the teachings of his elders and mentors, and the biddings of a clean conscience; 2) Love, respect, and obey his parents, and cooperate with them in the strengthening of the family; 3) Extend to his brothers and sisters his love, thoughtfulness, and helpfulness, and endeavor with them to keep the family harmonious and united; 4) Exert his utmost to develop his potentialities for service particularly by undergoing a formal education suited to his abilities, in order that he may become an asset to himself and to society; 5) Respect not only his elders but also the customs and traditions of our people, the memory of our heroes, the duly constituted authorities, the laws of our country, and the principles and institutions of democracy; 6) Participate actively in civic affairs and in the promotion of the general welfare, always bearing in mind that it is the youth who will eventually be called upon to discharge the responsibility of leadership in shaping the nation’s future; and 7) Help in the observance of individual human rights, the strengthening of freedom everywhere, the fostering of cooperation among nations in the pursuit of their common aspirations for progress and prosperity, and the furtherance of world peace.

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ADVANCEMENT SCHEME

Boy Scouting Advancement Requirements Membership Badge Requirements 1) Sing the Pambansang Awit and recite the Panunumpa Ng Katapatan Sa Watawat. 2) Recite the Scout Oath and Law, Scout Motto, and Slogan. 3) Demonstrate how to execute the Scout Sign, Scout Salute, and Scout Handshake. 4) Describe the Scout Badge. 5) Earn and save enough money to pay your registration fee. 6) Appear before your Troop in an investiture ceremony and commit yourself to the Scout Oath and Law. Tenderfoot Rank Requirements 1) Explain the following: Scout Oath and Law, Scout Motto, Scout Slogan, Scout Sign, Scout Salute, Scout Handshake, and the Scout Badge. 2) Attend regular religious services with the members of your family. 3) Explain the symbolism in the Philippine Flag. Draw the Evolution of the Philippine Flag. 4) Identify your boy and adult leaders in the Patrol and Troop and explain their duties and responsibilities. 5) Earn the equivalent of one-half-day's wage. 6) Tell rules at home that you need to know. 7) Wash and iron your underwear and stockings. 8) Plant and care for at least one tree. 9) Enumerate personal health rules that you should observe. Plan a balanced diet for one week.

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10) Inspect your home for safety hazards and report to your Troop what you did to correct them. 1l) Demonstrate First Aid for the following: cuts and scratches, bruises, first degree burns and scalds, insect bites and stings, nose bleeding, pain, fainting, and headache. Demonstrate how to use the neckerchief as triangular and a cravat bandage. 12) Identify at least ten (10) edible plants and demonstrate how at least three are prepared. 13) Sharpen a knife or a bolo and use it in preparing firewood for cooking. 14) Name the parts of a rope. Enumerate the characteristics of a good knot. Demonstrate how the following knots are used: overhand knot, fisherman's knot, figure-of-eight-knot, square knot, sheet bend, bowline, two-half hitches, timber hitch, and taut-line hitch. Demonstrate and explain why the ends of the rope must be whipped. 15) Point to the four compass directions and show how to locate the North. 16) Identify at least 15 out 20 items in a Kim's Game. 17) Demonstrate to a friend correct table manners. 18) Be active in Patrol and Troop meetings and activities. Join a Patrol Good Turn for your institution or community, particularly tree planting and caring and community beautification. Give your Patrol name, call and yell. 19) Discuss with your Troop Leader your commitments in the Troop and Patrol. 20) Discuss how to guard against child abuse. Second Class Rank Requirements 1) Narrate anecdotes/stories depicting the Scout Oath and Law, the Scout Motto, and the Scout Slogan. 2) Attend religious instructions and religious services. 3) Demonstrate how to hoist, lower, display, fold, and show respect for the Philippine Flag. 4) Identify your Troop Committee members and Institutional Leaders and describe what they do to help the Troop. 5) Earn the equivalent of one-half-day's wage. 6) Tell the troop traditions that you should observe. 7) Explain how to take care of some of the property of your Sponsoring Institution. 8) Demonstrate to a Patrol activity how to help ensure sanitation in the community. 9) Explain and discuss the Safe Swim Defense Plan and be able to undergo Basic Swimming Lessons. 10) Describe the five (5) vital steps in giving First Aid. Demonstrate First Aid for fever, sunstroke, heatstroke, dog bites, snake bites, foreign object in the eye, asphyxiation, and transporting of the injured.

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11) Name at least five (5) animal friends and explain why they are so. Name at least five (5) birds, fish, and/or insects observed during a hike. 12) Do some repairs in the home to the satisfaction of your parents. 13) Demonstrate when to use the following lashings: overhand knot, fisherman's knot, square lashing, diagonal lashing, figure of eight lashing, continuous lashing. Make a model of a pioneering project. 14) With the use of a compass or any other means, orient a street map or topographic map. Show a friend how to reach a certain place using a map. 15) Determine personal measurements, including the length of your step. Use these for determining heights, widths, weights and distances. 16) Discuss with your leaders the proper decorum in boarding and alighting from vehicles, social gatherings, convocations, sacred places, etc. 17) Tell what to do on a safe hike. Take an eight kilometer hike with the Troop, Patrol, or two other Scouts, using proper hiking methods and road courtesies. Sketch the route from your home to the hike site. 18) Discuss with your Troop Leader proper communication with your peers. Discuss also how to set goals. 19) Earn the SAFETY and the CITIZENSHIP IN THE HOME Merit Badges.

First Class Rank Requirements 1) Cite experiences wherein you practiced the Scout Oath and Law, the Scout Motto, and the Scout Slogan. 2) Produce satisfactory evidence that you have been faithful to your religious obligations. 3) Lead in at least one flag-raising and one flag-lowering ceremony. 4) Briefly describe what the District or Municipal Scouting Committee does. Observe one of their meetings. 5) Earn and save the equivalent of two-day's wage. Prepare a 3-year for a vocational career path that you will pursue after earning the First Class Scout Rank. 6) Describe how you will show respect for the rights and property of others. 7) Participate in a community service project undertaken by your Patrol or Troop. 8) Explain the dangers of smoking, alcoholism and drug abuse. 9) Swim at least 25 minutes using any of the following strokes: Breast Stroke, Crawl Stroke, Side Stroke, and Elementary Back Stroke. Explain the importance of the 8-point Safe Swim Defense Plan. 10) Explain what to do during emergencies, like fires, earthquake, floods, accidents, etc. Demonstrate First Aid for blister, bleeding wounds, foreign object in the ear, nose and throat, poisoning, simple and compound fractures, heart attach and how to apply cardio pulmonary resuscitation (CPR). 11) Show at least two (2) constellations that may be used to locate the North.

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12) Using common tools, make a project that will be useful in the home or in your Troop. 13) Make at least three (3) gadgets that can contribute to your comfort in camp. 14) Draw a simple map of your community covering an area of at least one square kilometer. 15) Send and receive a message of at least 20 words (100 letters) over a distance of at least 50 meters using the International Morse Code. Demonstrate how to send distress signals by any means. 16) Participate in one social activity like a birthday party or fiesta, etc. and observe social graces. 17) Prepare for camp. Show the camp equipment you will use (including food and cooking utensils). Explain how you will use them. Show the correct way to pack and carry your belongings. Demonstrate proper tent pitching. Participate in a total of 4 overnight camps or 2 week-end camps. Cook a meal for yourself and another during the camp. 18) Discuss with your Troop Leader sexual maturity and chaste living. Discuss also how you behave at home, in school, and/or in the community (with your gang). 19) Earn the CITIZENSHIP IN THE COMMUNITY, FILIPINO HERITAGE, FIRST AID, and ECOLOGY or TREE FARMING Merit Badges. Outdoorsman Rank Requirements For a period of at least five (5) months as a holder of the First Class Scout Rank, do the following: 1) Satisfy your parents and Scout Leaders, that you are doing your best to live by the Scout Oath, Law, Motto, and Slogan. 2) Attend regularly to the religious services of your faith. Bring a friend of the same faith with you. 3) Convince your Patrol members that you have developed the personal values of courtesy, respect, industry, and cooperation through your behavior and interactions with them. 4) Demonstrate proper conduct in boarding and alighting from a conveyance with a lady and/or an elderly person and proper decorum when you meet someone you know on the street. 5) Using your 3-year vocational plan developed in the First Class Scout Rank, explore and report on at least five (5) occupations in your chosen field, indicating the job opportunities, preparations, and training involved, and advancement within each occupation. 6) With your Patrol, plan and participate in a special community service project such as reforestation, garbage disposal, soil/water conservation, healthful environment information campaign, etc. 7) On a 3-day hike or camping expedition, draw a road map of at least three (3) kilometers, showing important features within 20 meters on both sides, using compass bearings and distances, and indicating conventional signs and familiar landmarks; Or with your Patrol Leader, bring a visitor on a tour of your town or province, pointing out the significant tourist spots and landmarks and explaining their history or significance. 8) Earn the CITIZENSHIP IN THE NATION, PHYSICAL FITNESS, SWIMMING, SOIL AND WATER CONSERVATION, and WEATHER Merit Badges in addition to those previously earned.

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Venturer Rank Requirements For a period of at least seven (7) months as a holder of the Outdoorsman Rank, do the following: 1) Satisfy your parents and Scout Leaders that you are doing your best to live by the Scout Oath, Law, Motto, and Slogan. 2) Receive religious instruction with a friend of the same faith. 3) Makes survey of values, beliefs, and practices in your community. Examine their importance to the life of the people to the Scout Oath and Law and determine which values/beliefs that need to be changed, improved, or modified to make a better community. Present this to your Patrol or Troop for their approval. 4. Participate in planning and conducting an indoor or outdoor social activity involving members of the opposite sex. 5) Individually or with a companion who is also interested in your chosen vocational field, study and earn one (1) SPECIALIST RATING (involving three merit badges). 6) Be a member of the Emergency Service Corps in your community/school and participate in at least one rescue or other emergency situations. 7) On a 3-day survival expedition in an approved Scout camping site, staying in an improvised shelter, making improvised utensils and camp gadgets, and cooking your food without cooking utensils. Afterwards, clean up camp such that there are no signs or marks of your having stayed there. 8) In addition to the Merit Badges earned in the previous ranks, earn the CAMPING and EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS Merit Badges. Eagle Scout Rank Requirements For a period of at least eight (8) months as a holder of the Venturer Rank, do the following: 1) Satisfy your parents and Scout Leaders, that you are doing your best to live by the Scout Oath, Law, Motto, and Slogan. 2) Show evidence that you are faithful in observing your religious obligations. 3) Participate or lead in an Institutional District activity involving the development of your people's attitude and values. 4) Lead in planning and conduct a Troop or Patrol social activity, either indoors or outdoors, involving your people or mixed groups. 5) Within your chosen area of vocational/avocational study, earn a second SPECIALIST RATING (involving three additional merit badges). Make an individual vocational training/development plan to pursue your chosen occupation and secure the approval of your Troop Leaders. 6) As a leader, plan and carry out two (2) community service projects designed to improve the physical environment in your community.

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7) With a companion, go on a 4-day survival expedition during rainy season to an approved Scout camping area, bringing with you only a compass and map, raincoat, knife, and waterproof matches and living off the land. After the expedition, present yourself to your Troop Leader to show you are still healthy, and narrate your experiences. 8) Earn the WORLD BROTHERHOOD and LIFE SAVING Merit Badges in addition to those previously earned (including those for the Specialist Rating).

The Merit Badge Scheme

Merit Badges give you a chance to add to the skills you learn and apply in Scouting. They give you a chance to try out several activities so you can discover which of these you like best and which interest you most. You will also discover your natural abilities and be able to choose your future career. For example, some Scouts who like first aid later became doctors. Some who like to take care of plants became agriculturists. So there is a good reason for you to try to earn Merit Badges besides just learning new skills and advancing in your Scouting. So take it seriously. There are many people who are ready to help you – your Troop Leader/Outfit Advisor, their Assistants, and the Merit Badge Counselors. Steps in Earning a Merit Badge Some Merit Badges are required. You have to earn them. Others are electives – you can select from a certain grouping called Specialist Rating. 1) Determine what Merit Badges are required. 2) If it is an elective – select the one that interest you most from the Group. If you cannot make a choice, ask you Troop Leader/Outfit Advisor to advise you. 3) After you have identified the Merit Badge you need or want, tell your Troop Leader/Outfit Advisor. He will help you fill up the Merit Badge Application Form and sign it. 4) The Troop Leader/Outfit Advisor will tell you who your Merit Badge Counselor is and he will introduce you to him.

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5) You will have two or more meetings with your Merit Badge Counselor. a. During your first meeting with your Counselor he will explain the subject and teach you everything he knows. He will suggest books or pamphlets you can read. He will also assign you a project to do by yourself at home, on your own time. If at anytime you need his help, he will be available. b. During the second meeting you will bring your completed project and the Counselor will talk to you and try to find out if you have really studied and complied with the requirements. If he is satisfied that you know the subject, he will sign your Application Form and certify that you have earned the Merit Badge. If he is not satisfied, the Merit Badge Counselor will advise you what else to do and ask you to try again. You may have other meetings with him until he is satisfied that you deserve the Merit Badge. 6) You return the Application Form now signed by the Merit Badge Counselor to your Troop Leader/Outfit Advisor who will then submit it to the Board of Review. 7) Present yourself at the Board of Review. Be sure to bring with you the required projects or assignments you completed pertaining to the Merit Badges you are applying for. 8) In due time you will be presented your Merit Badge at an appropriate ceremony. Wearing Your Merit Badges You will certainly be proud to wear the Merit Badges you already earned. These badges are to be worn on a Merit Badge Sash. The Merit Badge sash is made of the same material as the pants of your uniform. It is worn over the right shoulder, cutting diagonally across the chest with the other edge touching the left hip bone. The sash may be bought from your local Scout Shop. The badges earned are sewn on the sash in two rows one-fourth inch (1/4”) apart from each other. The first two (2) badges should be sewn in such a way that when the sash is worn, they are just at the intersection of an imaginary line that runs along the middle of the sash and the one that runs vertically along the middle of your shirt. The succeeding badges are sewn alternately starting above then below the first two (2) badges. The bottom portion of the badges should be perpendicular to the edges of the sash. The Merit Badge sash should be worn only during the following occasions: 1) When attending Courts of Honor/Recognition and/or other ceremonial functions. 2) When visiting Jamborees, Youth Forums, and other Scouting activities of at least municipal/district level. 3) When appearing before a Board of Review. 4) During such occasions as may be prescribed by appropriate authority.

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Procedures for Earning a Specialist Rating To qualify for a Specialist Rating, a Scout must do the following: 1) Select a Specialist Rating from the list. In consultation with your Troop Leader/Outfit Advisor, develop an exploration plan involving certain Merit Badges listed under the particular Specialist Rating selected. At least three (3) Merit Badges are required in qualifying for a Specialist Rating. Merit Badges in the present Specialist Rating which have already been earned by the Scout in his advancement are not credited towards the rating. 2) After earning the required three (3) Merit Badges, plan and carry out a service project in that field which involves the skills earned in meeting the Merit Badge requirements. The project shall be undertaken either in the home, school, church, Troop/Outfit, neighborhood, or community. The project must be approved first by the Troop/Outfit Leaders' Council. It is necessary that the Scout undertakes corresponding projects for the Rating field he has selected. 3) In the Board of Review on the Council level, the following matters should be asked concerning the Rating earned. a. If a rating relates to the vocational field, report on skills an individual must know for employment purposes. b. Other than the ratings on the vocational fields, the Scout should relate the other skills acquired from the activity.

LISTS OF SPECIALIST RATINGS 1) SCOUT AIRMAN Aviation Electricity Radio Signaling 2) SCOUT AQUAMAN Seamanship Signaling Swimming Weather 3) SCOUT ARTISAN Architecture Automobiling Carpentry Chemistry Electricity Masonry Plumbing

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4. SCOUT ARTIST Architecture Art Dramatics Painting Pottery Photography Sculpture 5) SCOUT CONSERVATIONIST First Aid Forestry Life Saving Public Health Safety Soil &. Water Conservation Weather Weather 6) SCOUT CRAFTSMAN Basketry Barbering Blacksmithing Bookbinding Carpentry 7) SCOUT DAIRYMAN Dairying Public Health Soil and Water Conservation Weather 8) SCOUT FARM MANAGER Animal Study Bee Keeping Business Forestry Salesmanship

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9) SCOUT GARDENER Agriculture Botany Environment Forestry Gardening Soil & Water Conservation Safety Weather

10) SCOUT JOURNALIST Art Business Computers Interpreting Journalism Photography Printing Reading

11) SCOUT LIVESTOCKMAN Animal Study Livestock Raising Soil and Water Conservation Electricity Radio Signaling Weather

12) SCOUT POULTRYMAN Agriculture Duck Raising First Aid Forestry Gardening Pigeon Raising Poultry Raising Public Health Safety

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13) SCOUT RADIOMAN Astronomy Electricity Radio Signaling Weather

SCOUT ANAHAW AWARD After a Scout has earned the Eagle rank and before reaching the age of 17 years, he can pursue additional advancement to gain the ANAHAW Award. In addition to the 21 Merit Badges for the Eagle Scout Rank, the Anahaw Award may be granted, as follows: a. For any 2 additional Specialist Ratings after earning the Eagle Scout Rank – Bronze Anahaw Award. b. For any 2 additional Specialist Ratings after earning the Bronze Anahaw Award – Silver Anahaw Award. c. For any 2 additional Specialist Ratings after earning the Silver Anahaw Award – Gold Anahaw Award. The Anahaw Award is in the form of a metal Anahaw leaf to be pinned on the ribbon portion of the Eagle Medal. A Scout with the Eagle rank has the liberty to select any category of Specialist Ratings. The Bronze Anahaw Award shall be given only after at least three (3) months of satisfactory service in the Eagle Scout Rank. Subsequent Anahaw Awards may be made for intervals of not less than four (4) months service following the conferment of the previous Anahaw Award.

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Anahaw Award Procedure: 1) The Scout meets the necessary Specialist Ratings requirements and completes the Application form for the Anahaw Award. The Senior Patrol/Crew Leader approves this application which is then endorsed by the Troop Leader/ Outfit Advisor. 2) The Scout appears before a Council Board of Review consisting of at least three members one of whom must be a Scout who has himself attained either Eagle, Jose Rizal, or Scout Citizen Rank. The Council Scout Commissioner for Program shall be ex-officio member of the Board. 3) The Scout is reviewed not only on his additional earned Specialist Ratings, but must also show evidence that he has: a. Continued to live by the Scout Oath and Law and (for Senior Scouts) the Senior Scout Code. b. Maintained active service relationship to Scouting in any leadership capacity. 4) The Council Board of Review submits a report to the Council Office where the Scout is credited with his specific Anahaw Award. 5) The Scout is presented with his Anahaw Certiﬁcate and Pin at an appropriate Council Court of Honor.

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LISTS OF MERIT BADGES CITIZENSHIP GROUP (7) Citizenship in the Community Citizenship in the Home Citizenship in the Nation Filipino Heritage Personal Health Rizal Lore World Brotherhood PUBLIC SERVICE (9) Emergency Preparedness Firemanship First Aid Home Repairs Interpreting Lifesaving Public Health Safety Signaling CRAFTSMANSHIP (13) Barbering Basketry Blacksmithing Bookbinding Carpentry Handicraft Leathercraft Masonry Metal Work Painting Plumbing Pottery Wood Carving PLANT GROUP (6) Agriculture Coconut Growing Crop Production Farm Management Tree Farming Gardening

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SPORTS GROUP (10) Archery Athletics Boating Cycling Horsemanship Marksmanship Physical Fitness Snorkeling Swimming Team Sports ANIMAL GROUP (12) Animal Study Dairying Duck Raising Fish Culture Fishing Food Processing Hog Raising Livestock Raising Pet Care Pigeon Raising Poultry Raising Rabbit Raising CAMPCRAFT GROUP (6) Camping Cooking Hiking Pathfinding Pioneering Ropework TECHNICAL GROUP (20) Aviation Astronomy Automobiling Business Chemistry Computers Drafting Electricity Electronics Engineering Journalism

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Machine Shop Practice Photography Radio Salesmanship Surveying Tailoring Woodwork

ART GROUP (9) Architecture Art Dramatics Music Public Speaking Printing Reading Scholarship Sculpture Hobbies and Collection

NATURE GROUP (12) Beekeeping Bird Study Botany Ecology Environment Forestry Insect Study Nature Lore Reptile and Amphibian Study Seamanship Soil and Water Conservation Weather

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BIBLIOGRAPHY A. BOOKS Hafen, Brent Q. and Karren, Keith J. PRE-HOSPITAL EMERGENCY CARE AND CRISIS INTERVENSION. Fourth Edition. Brady Norton Series. New Jersey: Prentice-Hall Inc. 1992. Hammet, Catherine T. YOUR OWN BOOK OF CAMPCRAFT. New York: Pocket Books, Inc. Ladion—De Guzman, Herminia. HEALING WONDERS OF HERBS. Manila: Philippine Publishing House. 1985. Boy Scouts of America. BOY SCOUT HANDBOOK. Eight Edition. New Jersey: Boy Scouts of America, 1948. Boy Scouts of America. BOY SCOUT HANDBOOK. Tenth Edition. Texas: Boy Scouts of America, 1990. Boy Scouts of the Philippines. BOY SCOUT HANDBOOK. Volume I. Manila: 1963. Boy Scouts of the Philippines. BOY SCOUT HANDBOOK. Volume II. Manila: 1971. Boy Scouts of the Philippines. SERVICE SCOUT HANDBOOK. Part I. Manila: 1978. Boy Scouts of the Philippines. SERVICE SCOUT HANDBOOK. Part II. Manila: 1979. Boy Scouts of the Philippines. SERVICE SCOUT HANDBOOK. Part III. Manila: 1981. Boy Scouts of the Philippines. SERVICE SCOUT HANDBOOK. Part IV. Manila: 1981. West, James E. and Hillcourt, William. SCOUT FIELD BOOK. New York: Boy Scouts of America, 1948.

B. PAMPHLETS Presidential Decree No. 603. The Child and Youth Welfare Code. December 10, 1974. The Constitution of the Philippine Republic. Manila: Kalayaan Press, 1981.

C. PERIODICALS Bigornia, Avelino E. “Enemies of the Insect World.” PHILIPPINE SCOUTING MAGAZINE. Vol. II, No. 3, September 1, 1946.

D. HANDOUTS Department of National Defense. Office of Civil Defense, Camp Aguinaldo, Q.C. Francisco Balagtas Elementary School, Manila. Science Club Parents Seminar Handout, September 5, 1984.

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