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COVID-19 UPDATE Friends Respond to the Pandemic

FRIENDS 2019 IN REVIEW

MENTAL & PHYSICAL HEALTH EFFECTS OF WALKING

WHAT HIKING TAUGHT ME ABOUT ISOLATION

TERRY LAVENDER CHURCHILL FELLOWSHIP

FRIENDS OF THE HEYSEN TRAIL | SOUTH AUSTRALIA | ISSUE 156 | WINTER 2020 BuildingBuilding friendships, friendships, confidence confidence & camaraderie& camaraderie amongamong women women as aswe we explore explore the the world world together. together.

SMALLSMALL GROUP GROUP WALKS WALKS AND AND MORE MORE EXCLUSIVELYEXCLUSIVELY FOR FOR WOMEN WOMEN SINCESINCE 2008 2008 • Bibbulmun• Bibbulmun Track Track Sections Sections - WA - WA • Flinders• Flinders Ranges Ranges Walking Walking Holiday Holiday - SA - SA • Camino• Camino Pilgrimage Pilgrimage - Spain - Spain & Portugal & Portugal • Women’s• Women’s Outback Outback Camel Camel Trek Trek - SA - SA • Top• TopEnd EndExplorer: Explorer: Arnhem Arnhem Land, Land, Kakadu Kakadu & & LitchfieldLitchfield - NT - NT • Kangaroo• Kangaroo Island Island Walking Walking Tour Tour - SA - SA • Kilimanjaro• Kilimanjaro - Full - MoonFull Moon Summit Summit Trek Trek • Arthur• Arthur Wainwright’s Wainwright’s UK CoastUK Coast to Coast to Coast • Wild• Wild Untamed Untamed Borneo Borneo • Treasures• Treasures of Morocco of Morocco • Other• Other great great walks, walks, activities activities & adventures... & adventures... www.adventurouswomen.com.auwww.adventurouswomen.com.au [email protected]@adventurouswomen.com.au Ph: Ph:1300 1300 388 388419 419

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FOR ALL OUR UPCOMING WALKS, TRIPS AND EVENTS www.bigheartadventures.com.au Our office is currently closed temporarily due to COVID19. We continue to operate remotely and will offer our local walking events and trips in South Australia as soon as distancing restrictions lift. About the Friends WINTER 2020 • 3

COUNCIL MEMBERS 2020 PATRON END-TO END WALK COORDINATORS PRESIDENT His Excellency the Melanie Sjoberg Honourable Hieu Van Le AC E2E10 Carol Homewood E2E11 John Babister VICE PRESIDENT HONORARY MEMBERS E2E12 Adam Matthews Greg Boundy Sadie Leupold E2E13 Vicki Barrett SECRETARY Thelma Anderson OAM E2E14 Mark Fletcher Julian Monfries Kath Palyga E2E15 Mark Curtis Richard Schmitz E2E-2 Julian Monfries TREASURER Arthur Smith PUBLISHED BY THE Stephen Salib-Brown Colin Edwards MAINTENANCE SECTION LEADERS FRIENDS OF THE HEYSEN Robert Alcock Hugh Greenhill TRAIL AND OTHER Colin Edwards Glen Dow S1 Albert Schmidtke WALKING TRAILS Dom Henschke Barry Finn S2A Roger Dunn Dean Killmier S2B John Newland W heysentrail.asn.au Carol Homewood John Wilson John Wilson S3&4 Hermann Schmidt facebook.com/HeysenTrail Margaret Fletcher David Beaton (Wandergruppe twitter.com/HeysenTrail John Babister Jack Marcelis Bushwalkers) Julian Monfries S5 John Babister youtube.com/HeysenTrail Paul Bond Frances Gasson S6 Richard Webb pinterest.com/HeysenTrail SUB-COMMITTEE Simon Cameron S7 Graham Loveday CHAIRS David Rattray OAM S8 Ian Harding CITY BRANCH TRAIL DEVELOPMENT Hermann Schmidt (WEA Ramblers) Suite 203, Epworth Building Colin Edwards Robert Alcock S9 Jerry & Michelle Foster 33 Pirie St, Adelaide SA 5000 Liz O’Shea S10 Wayne Turner, WALKING John Potter Kevin Crawshaw, Open Mon – Fri Adam Matthews 10:30am – 2:30pm Kevin Liddiard Peter Deacon OFFICE S11&12 Dom Henschke, T HONORARY MEMBERS (08) 8212 6299 Dom Henschke Colin Rozman, Rick Price E [email protected] (DECEASED) S13 Hugh Greenhill MARKETING & Terry Lavender OAM (Mid North Branch) MID NORTH BRANCH MEMBERSHIP Jim Crinion S14-18 Arrangements Helen Morgante T 0428 347 315 Neville Southgate currently under review E [email protected] HONORARY Doug Leane MEMBERSHIP Fred Brooks OFFICE VOLUNTEERS MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION Julian Monfries Jamie Shephard MONDAYS Terry Gasson SINGLE $25/year RECONCILIATION Graham Loveday Neil Nosworthy FAMILY $40/year COMMITTEE TRAILWALKER Anne Kirk Elizabeth Rogers SCHOOLS/ORGANISATIONS EDITOR TUESDAYS $60/year WARREN BONYTHON Josh West Valerie Boundy Membership is valid for HEYSEN TRAIL Judy McAdam 12 months from the date FOUNDATION EDITORIAL Chris Porter of payment. SUB-COMMITTEE CHAIRMAN David Rattray OAM Robert Alcock Neville Haar Philip Bell WEDNESDAYS SECRETARY Robyn Coburn Elayne Sanders Neil Nosworthy Colin Edwards Vicki Cahalan Tammy Main Gilbert Downs MID NORTH BRANCH Judy McAdam Jack Marcelis PRESIDENT Liz Rogers THURSDAYS Garry Fieldhouse Julie Stapleton Eve Buckley VICE-PRESIDENT Greg Martin Erica Gordon Kate Greenhill WEBSITE EDITOR Julian Monfries Judy Szekeres SECRETARY Jeremy Carter Anna Ciccarelli FF Sally Fieldhouse T O YOU N R MEMBERSHIP SECRETARY FRIDAYS U N PUBLICITY OFFICERS O E C David Rattray OAM Cathy Bowditch X S Garry Fieldhouse I T

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O F Wednesday 17 June BOOKKEEPERS RELIEF STAFF Wednesday 15 July John Wilson Eve Buckley Cover: The wide open spaces of Dom Henschke Morialta Conservation Park may Maria Newland Tina Behnke Graham Loveday be the perfect place to practise Margaret Fletcher Jack Marcelis self-distancing. Photo: Josh West. Trailwalker welcomes photo submissions suitable for the cover of the magazine. Please email FOR ALL OUR UPCOMING WALKS, TRIPS AND EVENTS your high-resolution image to We acknowledge and respect the traditional custodians whose ancestral lands www.bigheartadventures.com.au [email protected] we traverse along the Heysen Trail. We acknowledge the deep feelings of attachment and relationship of Aboriginal peoples to Country and pay respects Our office is currently closed temporarily due to COVID19. to the cultural authority of Aboriginal peoples within the Country we walk. We continue to operate remotely and will offer our local walking events and trips in South Australia as soon as distancing restrictions lift. Contents Trailwalker

Articles, reports and other submissions by members and interested parties are welcome and should be emailed to 06 the Trailwalker Editor at What's the state [email protected] of Play in SA? Deadline for the next issue (Spring 2020): 31 JULY 2020

The Trailwalker magazine is available by subscription or online at heysentrail.asn.au/ trailwalker and is published and distributed quarterly: 05 12 19 • Autumn (March) • Winter (June) PRESIDENT’S THE END-TO- BOOK REVIEW: • Spring (September) REPORT END STORY THE WAYS OF THE • Summer (December) CONTINUES BUSHWALKER The Trailwalker magazine MELANIE SJOBERG has a typical distribution The Friends respond to JULIAN MONFRIES MELANIE SJOBERG of 1500, and an estimated the COVID-19 Pandemic DEAN MORTIMER Melanie investigates how readership of approximately Following on from the the role of a bushwalker twice that number. 06 'Original End-to-End Walk' has developed. article from Autumn Contributors are urged Trailwalker 2020. FRIENDS NEWS 21 to contact the Editor to discuss their article prior to Keep up-to-date with what’s THE TERRY happening on the Trail. 14 submission. The submission LAVENDER deadline is usually the first THE MENTAL CHURCHILL Friday of the month prior to 07 AND PHYSICAL FELLOWSHIP the month of publication. HEALTH EFFECTS TRAILTHINKER BEN TREWREN Views expressed in OF WALKING QUIZ Ben investigates ways contributed articles are DR HELEN DONOVAN those of the authors, and to develop, manage and 09 Helen highlights the promote recreational trails not necessarily those of the mental and physical and outdoor pursuits. Friends of the Heysen Trail. VOLUNTEER benefits of walking. PROFILE 25 ADVERTISING RATES RICHARD WEBB 16 (EX. GST) A NEW SHADE Richard shares his WHAT HIKING OF GREEN: 1/8 PAGE $55 per issue involvement as a TRAMPING Friends volunteer. TAUGHT ME 1/4 PAGE $80 per issue ABOUT DEALING TE ARAROA 1/2 PAGE $135 per issue FULL PAGE $200 per issue WITH SOCIAL KIRBY DRAPER 10 ISOLATION FLYER (supplied for insertion) With only nine days $240 per issue FRIENDS OF THE JOSH WEST remaining, Kirby had to depart the Te Araroa. HEYSEN 2019 IN Trail Ambassador Josh A commitment for 12 months REVIEW recaps his experiences advertising (four issues) with social isolation on 28 would attract 10% saving. MELANIE SJOBERG the trail. Melanie recaps the A WEE TOUR Advertising specifications and Friends of the Heysen's OF BEN NEVIS article submission guidelines involvement in 2019. 18 are available upon request or by visiting ASK A HIKER SEAN BENZ Sean couldn’t help wonder heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker What is your secret why the UK doesn’t have scroggin ingredient? its own grand tour around its highest mountain. President’s Report WINTER 2020 • 5

The Friends respond to the COVID-19 Pandemic

MELANIE SJOBERG

hat a start to 2020: trains, lines to enter supermarkets outdoor community and group activity. first bushfires with sanitiser for shopping trollies At this stage, the DEW suspension of devastating vast and many businesses closed. Strange volunteer activity is still in place. The areas on Kangaroo it may be, but most of us recognise public pronouncements reinforce that, Island and the east there is a driving imperative to protect for widespread community safety, we coast; then extensive restrictions across the community and our health service must practise hygiene and physical Wthe community in response to a global capacity that underpins the call to distancing for an extended period pandemic. It seems we’re exhausting isolate and stay home. The Friends Council and Committees the thesaurus: unprecedented, Sadly, in light of ongoing public health will discuss options for our activities extraordinary, unusual, unexpected, requirements, the Friends Council in light of the announced easing of unrivalled, and exceptional… and made the difficult but necessary restrictions and any requirements and creating terms like ‘new normal’. decision to cancel our activities: public health risks that community The Friends Council views the health, • End-to-End Walk Program and groups must consider. While we safety and wellbeing of our members other walks using buses for 2020; remain positive about working and volunteers as a priority, especially it through, limiting groups to a • TrailWalker/TrailStarter until while the whole community continues maximum of 10 is challenging. further notice; to come to grips with the enormous impact of the COVID-19 Pandemic. We • On-Trail Maintenance & took the Federal and State Government Development Work; and “ public health messages seriously • Keep the Office closed until Stay safe, keep walking and by postponing our Annual General further notice. keep in touch Meeting and initially cancelling Unfortunately, we couldn’t defer or activities to the end of May. avoid making a clear decision about ” the End-to-End Walk Programme Like many not-for-profits, it will be a “ that so many of us love. Clearly the tough year for the Friends as group Strange it may be, but most format of large groups using buses walking is so important for our health of us recognise there is a doesn’t align with current public and wellbeing. It is especially sad for health restrictions related to physical our members to miss that intrinsic driving imperative to distancing, hygiene and bans on large protect the community pleasure derived from sharing group gatherings. We also weighed up an interest and being part of an the complexity of organising multiple organisation that walks and supports ” groups at varying stages along the Trail the Heysen. Despite the restrictions, as well as challenges related to bus Members would be aware that Walking the Friends continues to maintain our and accommodation bookings in an SA also cancelled the annual Hiking Expo behind-the-scenes administration, unknown timeframe. at the end of April. Friends of Parks website, insurance and office; so I and other volunteer groups cancelled On Friday 8 May, SA Premier Steven especially ask that you maintain your all activity for the foreseeable future. Marshall announced a staggered membership during the year to help timeframe to ease some restrictions the Friends organisation stay alive. As we all manage tighter constraints within SA. The initial phase allows on our daily activity we’ve now seen Meanwhile stay safe, keep walking and regional travel and reopens camping large numbers of people working from keep in touch through Facebook. I look in National Parks and caravan parks. home, frequent cleaning on buses and forward to seeing you back on the Trail. There is still a limit of 10 people on Friends News WINTER 2020 • 6

What's the state of play in SA?

Trailwalker is calling for iconic Heysen Trail photos To help celebrate the Heysen Trail’s 35th year anniversary in 2021, SA Premier Steven DAY WALKING Trailwalker is on the hunt for iconic, Marshall announced unique, historic and distinct images The Department of Recreation & of the Trail. We are planning to the state planned to Sport has advised that community showcase these shots (plus brief ease restrictions on organisations must develop location descriptions/walker intrastate travel and guidelines for managing COVID-19 anecdotes) in the upcoming 2020/21 risks before resuming any group Summer edition with a look back at outdoor activities. activities. Walking SA has provided the moments that have shaped, and So where does this a guide for all walking clubs which continue to shape, our Trail. leave the Heysen Trail? the Friends is considering along Snow on Mt Bryan? Aftermath of a with specific elements to suit our fire? Dolphins on Tunkalilla Beach? From Monday 11 May, South walking activity. We anticipate that Endearing Trail figures? Landmark Australia's Stage 3 restrictions, which the Friends should be able to revive events? Send your high-resolution have been in place throughout the a modified Trailstarter/Trailwalker shots to the Trailwalker Editor state to limit physical distancing programme and will announce that [email protected] and reduce the COVID-19 threat, on the website after a detailed plan were eased. Several of these new has been finalised. As previously announcements have a direct effect advised, the End-to-End Programme on the Heysen Trail, including: is cancelled for 2020.

• community groups may commence THROUGH-HIKING outdoor activities in groups of up to 10; This latest development, which also • regional travel is now allowed; and allows camping on-park and on Crown Land, means this season's • National Parks will reopen for South Australian Heysen Trail camping (including along the through-hikers can continue their Heysen Trail). preparation and commence their journey as planned.

For the most up-to-date information, Despite the easing of restrictions, check out www.heysentrail.asn.au remember to practise good hygiene Wind, hail and rain no more! and adhere to the 1.5-metre rule. The Friends have a new branded marquee to erect at future field days, expos and social events. Friends News WINTER 2020 • 7

Has your The Friends are membership moving office – lapsed? next door Thank you for being Members and Volunteers will be pleased to know that we have arranged a friend, but please take with Epworth House to move into a moment to reflect. the vacant office right next door to our current office. The only address Did you know that many of our change will be from Suite 212 to 203. members don’t walk our trails but The significant change will be a bigger, their financial contribution(only brighter space to carry out our volunteer $25 a year for singles and $40 for work and to meet in what promises to be couples) goes a long way to help our a welcoming atmosphere for everyone. volunteer organisation? Trailthinker The Friends Executive and Office Your contribution allows us to: Committee is looking at how we Quiz • HELP OTHERS WALK THE ENTIRE coordinate the transition while keeping TRAIL as many of you have done, in line with current restrictions. 1. What is the name of the with leaders and buses Activity will be staggered to ensure highest mountain in • OPEN AN OFFICE 5 DAYS A WEEK volunteers willing to help are able to South Australia? with volunteers to answer adhere to physical distance, health 2. Who is the only South questions and sell maps and & safety and hygiene. At least in this Australian-born person to other material restricted period we can gradually shift feature on an Australian • MAINTAIN AND REDEVELOP THE across over the next few weeks. banknote? 1200KM TRAIL with markers, stiles and toilets. As already announced, the office will 3. In which year was the remain closed until further notice due Rest assured, your $25 is very well first section of the to COVID-19; so members may look spent. We hope your time with us was Heysen Trail officially forward to visiting the new office once enjoyable; we would love you to stay. opened? the restrictions allow us to gather. 4. Which Heysen Trail town holds the distinction of being the oldest copper mining town in Australia? GER EN T S R S A 5. Farmers Union Iced

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I C Transport & Removals which year? 6. What are the names of Explore the Mawson & Heysen Trails five squares in Adelaide's city centre? through the Flinders Ranges, or discover the Fleurieu Peninsula 7. What is the largest local government area in Regular bus services connecting South Australia? Adelaide and Copley, and the towns 8. The Trailwalker was first in-between. Passenger/freight published in which year? timetables available online. 9. Mt Sonder is a trailhead for which Australian 08 8552 4000 long-distance trail? 10. The 426-kilometre [email protected] Hume and Hovell Track www.genesistransport.com.au is located in which Australian state?

ON THE MOVE? RING US FOR A REMOVAL QUOTE ANSWERS PAGE 18 WINTER 2020 • 8

Newland Head Conservation Park Wild South Treasurer’s Coast Way Report 2019 Friends Treasurer on the Stephen Salib-Brown reports a surplus Heysen Trail totalling $10,415 for the year 2019.

INCOME SALES OF GOODS $5,717

While designs are yet to be finalised, MEMBERSHIP $24,859 Melanie Sjoberg reports SUBSCRIPTIONS on the upgrade of the the current project plan aims to commence building infrastructure WALKING, WEEKENDS $49,992 Heysen's coastal stretch. for high-quality walk-in campsites AND OTHERS along the 5 day, 4 night section Members may recall the announcement ADVERTISING REVENUE $7,369 with the first site to be open around last year that the SA Government had June 2021. Current camping in committed $6 million to upgrade the INTEREST RECEIVED $2,594 Deep Creek, such as Stringybark, Heysen Trail and Deep Creek. Plans Tapanappa, Trig and Cobblers Hill SUNDRY INCOME $25,035 are progressing for rejuvenation of the will also gain improvements to (INCL. HH DONATIONS) Heysen Trail between Cape Jervis and facilities during the 4 year project. Victor Harbor. TOTAL $115,566 Those of us initiating the The Friends of Heysen Trail President rejuvenation are especially excited EXPENDITURE and Yankalilla Council Tourism & that an upgrade to the carpark, Events Manager are represented on the ADMINISTRATION $5,434 facilities and ridgeline along Department for Environment and Water Goondooloo will provide access LEASE COSTS $9,926 (DEW) Steering Committee overseeing for people with limited mobility the project. The summer bushfires INSURANCE AND to experience nature and those $7,037 and more recent COVID-19 Pandemic AFFILIATION FEES wonderful views across to the Pages. caused some slowing but designs are BANK FEES $3,685 now being prepared and consultation This stunning coastal section of the is underway with the local tourism Heysen Trail is poised to become a OFFICE EXPENSES $13,572 sector to identify opportunities for drawcard for through-hikers as well transport, walking support and as day-walkers wanting to explore the PROMOTIONAL COSTS $5,433 accommodation in the region. dramatic cliffs, gullies, beaches and TRAILWALKER COSTS $13,706 expansive native vegetation while Most importantly, the reinvigorated staying in one of the many local TOTAL section of the Trail will have its own $58,793 accommodation options with ready moniker – Wild South Coast Way on the access to drop-off, pick-up points. Heysen Trail! And plans are afoot for a ADMINISTRATIVE $56,772 For those that enjoy being under the signature Trailhead just east of Cape SURPLUS stars but not carrying a pack there Jervis and another highlight marker as is always the option of camping in LESS TRAIL $46,357 you complete the 5-day section in Victor Deep Creek or more comfort staying MAINTENANCE Harbor. We’re hoping the Trailhead will at local cottages and B&Bs. be ready to open in October 2020. NET SURPLUS $10,415 Volunteer Profile WINTER 2020 • 9

Volunteer Profile: Richard Webb

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN stopped many a time and had a great INVOLVED WITH THE FRIENDS? conversation with these same people, I started helping out with the and it’s what keeps me committed. maintenance of Section 6 on the Heysen WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE Trail back in 1998, so I guess more than WALK ON THE HEYSEN? 20 years now. I teamed up with a fellow The coastal breeze, birds and animals walker from the Four Seasons Walking of the Waitpinga to Bluff stretch first Club, where we were already looking comes to mind. But then my mind after a stretch of overgrown scrub on wanders to the Ranger’s headquarters YOUR FUNNIEST MEMORY Blackfellows Creek Road. at Mt Magnificent or maybe St Mary’s MAINTAINING THE TRAIL? WHAT’S INVOLVED IN Peak with its purple Cockatoos in the We conducted a short survey walk to MAINTAINING YOUR SECTION Flinders, but then again there are the check markers near Chookarloo, which OF THE HEYSEN TRAIL? wildflowers of Morialta; so many to turned into an all-day adventure with In the beginning, it was a working bee choose from. friends, complete with a bogged 4WD and a trek to hail a local landowner where 20 or so people would come out WHAT’S A FAVOURITE WALK to cut back small trees and clear the with a tractor to dislodge us as the sun OTHER THAN ON THE HEYSEN was setting. Wasn’t the first time he’d trail path. Over the years the number TRAIL? has waned, but I still head out on a rescued visitors in the area. Cradle Mountain; another time I took Wednesday. I’ll usually have hand saws, an unexpected detour, but you know A MEMORABLE MOMENT? loppers and a battery-powered hand drill what? I saw the beauty of Cradle with me. All tools, that by the age of Meeting Terry Lavender; a pioneer of Mountain from a different perspective, 75, you have tucked away in your shed. both the Heysen and Lavender Trails. and I will always cherish that. I live nearby the section, and access An inspiring man. for short trips is easy. If any trunks are thicker than 20cm, I put in a call to the Heysen Friends Committee, and they organise professionals with equipment. One part of my role is to coordinate local landowners where the Trail crosses their land. I’ve enjoyed being a part of the community, and I’m always pleasantly surprised at the generosity of time and equipment they offer to Trailwalker preserve trail infrastructure. Photo WHAT KEEPS YOU Competition VOLUNTEERING FOR THE HEYSEN FRIENDS? I thrive being outdoors. My partner will often come along, and we’ve both Photo: Anne Kirk enjoyed seeing the landscape change over time. It was great to see new trees being planted on the western boundary of Kyeema and then watch them grow. Pauleen Bond safely We invite our readers to I remember walking the Heysen adhering to social submit photos of themselves or Trail back in the 1970-80s and finding others reading Trailwalker in myself making up time after straying distancing rules with interesting or unusual locations. off the path. I’m conscious of young her Trailwalker in Please send your high-resolution families and lone walkers needing a Belair National Park. photos to The Editor at well-marked trail, so the experience [email protected] is enjoyable and straightforward. I’ve WINTER 2020 • 10

As always, it is our members and dedicated volunteers who put in Friends an enormous effort to keep the Trail alive and our organisation functioning. 2631 of the TDC volunteer TRAIL DEVELOPMENT hours throughout AND MAINTENANCE 2019 Heysen In 2019, the TDC launched a database to record trail activity and help monitor projects and volunteer SIGNIFICANT TRAIL 2019 in hours. It was designed and constructed by a skilled volunteer DEVELOPMENT PROJECTS and fully funded by the FOHT. The focus of major infrastructure review projects during 2019 was around Why does this matter? Fundamentally, it helps analysis of the Mid North and facilities at what is being done and improves campsites further north were how we plan our work. Importantly also improved. it allows us to report outcomes and • BLACK JACK CABIN our volunteer contribution to DEW (north of Burra) and gives us sound data to assist Refurbished the cabin including with preparing grant applications bed benches, transported it to for future projects. site, installed cabin, toilet and water tank and added outdoor TDC VOLUNTEER HOURS platform, fire pit, solar. • HALLETT RAILWAY HUT ACTIVITIES HOURS Replaced ceiling and cornices, SECTION LEADERS 868 new wood burning stove, new (regular maintenance, prun- stainless steel sink, long table ing, fix markers, posts, stiles) and benches & fresh paint, solar. Toilet & tank existed. END-TO-END MAINTENANCE 432 • STONY CREEK CAMP (identified and programmed Replaced water tank, repaired repairs, re-marking routes; includes meeting with local guttering & installed platform. landholders, councillors and • BUNDALEER WEIR CAMP service providers) Installed toilet and platform. • LIGHT HUMMOCK CAMP FRIENDS SHED 360 (Allendale) (weekly preparation) Installed water tank & platform. located at Cobbler Creek Conservation Park with • MIDDLESIGHT & WILMINGTON support from DEW Installed platforms.

Due to the outbreak INSTALLATIONS 384 of COVID-19, the (platforms, toilets, tanks) DEW TRAINING SUPPORT Friends postponed MAJOR UPGRADES 507 Our volunteers benefitted from the Annual General - Hallett Railway Hut several training courses related to - Black Jack Cabin health and safety that were funded Meeting scheduled for by DEW during 2019. ANNUAL HUT SURVEY 60 March. The following (assessing conditions, vermin, TRAINING ACTIVITY/SECTION is a summary of key tanks; replace fire extinguish- LEADERS TRAINED ers, smoke alarm testing) outcomes from 2019 VOLUNTEER SAFETY 10 TOTAL that formed the basis 2611 FRAMEWORK Melanie Sjoberg's 4WD SAFETY of NB this summation does not include 11 President’s Report. assessment and project planning time, CHAINSAW 5 meeting and preparation time, coordinat- REMOTE ing volunteers, training or completion of 4 Images: Mark Scicluna forms for DEW. FIRST AID Friends of the Heysen 2019 in review WINTER 2020 • 11

WALKING THE TRAIL TRAIL PROMOTION OFFICE VOLUNTEER TIME Our walking programme is critical The Friends Office is usually open to the overall success of the Friends MEMBERSHIP 10.30-14.30 5 days per week with and special thanks should be 2 volunteers per day. Friends welcomed 222 new members to conveyed to the Walk Committee the organisation in 2019 (1230 in total). Office Volunteers engage in a raft of that ensures it operates effectively. behind-the-scenes administration TRAILWALKER In 2019, our volunteer walk that keeps the Friends, our walks leaders coordinated: The magazine is published 4 times and promotional efforts ticking over. • 27 Twilight walks, per year providing an essential, Importantly they provide advice and high-quality promotional product information about walking the Heysen • 38 TrailStarters; carrying articles about walking and Trail; coordinate on-line shop orders; • 50 TrailWalkers; maintenance along the Heysen Trail. manage Trailwalker postage; help • 1 Extended Walk and 1 Rambler. Beyond our membership, we distribute publish website news items, such as Total 2019 Walk Registrations: 3932 it free to Regional Visitor Centres, park closures for fire management, pest Landholders and Service Providers control, and fire danger season. Interestingly, over 66% register 2-4 that builds relationships and weeks ahead and most members awareness about walking the Heysen. RECONCILIATION JOURNEY register online with only 8% via the office. Thanks go out to Greg Martin who Since Council decided to establish a shepherded Trailwalker as editor Reconciliation group, the Friends has Our End-to-End walk leaders have a over the past 2 years and encouraged commenced discussion with First Nations special role in sharing the Friends consolidation of an editorial sub- leaders aiming to work collaboratively ethos and encouraging involvement committee to actively source material. to learn more about the traditional through regular chats along the Trail. lands that the Heysen Trail crosses. End-to-End walks also provide an We also welcome our new editor important revenue base that allows Josh West, who walked the Heysen FOHT has now formalised a us to pursue opportunities aligned in 2018 and is inspired to share that Reconciliation Committee with the objectives of the Friends. fondness of the Trail and hiking. nominating Anne Kirk as Chair and that aims: END-TO-END 2019 REGISTRATIONS DIGITAL • To acknowledge country and build GROUP FIRST WALK FINAL WALK • WEBSITE: The Friends website is the an understanding of reconciliation 9* 58 59 most comprehensive online source of along the Heysen Trail; 10 36 44 information for walking the Trail: • Work with Traditional Owners, conditions on the Trail, distances, where possible, so they can share 11 38 48 campsites, re-routes, regional their stories; and build connections 12 60 50 accommodation and transport and through trust and a willingness to 13 53 40 relevant notices about fire danger listen. season and park closures. DEW 14 78 70 In consultation with Reconciliation links direct to our site. SA we identified an appropriate form *Completion Year • FACEBOOK: Our page promoting the of words that End-to-End Walk groups Heysen Trail has over 5500 regular The Walk Committee created an may use during their walks on different followers. It is used to promote our sections of the trail. exciting programme for 2020 so it is a events and wider activity such as huge disappointment that the COVID-19 Walking SA Hiking Expo, DEW Park Future plans include: Pandemic has curtailed our plans. of the Month, charity fundraisers • pursue connections with several Our walk leaders are such a vital spark and health benefits of walking. identified Aboriginal contacts; within the Friends that they are already • APP: During 2019, we collaborated • continue to investigate location conjuring up options and plans for 2021. with international company of transition points of Traditional Guthooks Guides to ensure that the Lands on the trail; and Heysen Trail features on their new • share stories where appropriate. 73 app for Australia-NZ hiking guides. Certificates & badges issued to walkers who completed the Trail in 2019 WINTER 2020 • 12 The End-to-End story continues Following on from and frankly, were overwhelmed by their popularity. You can imagine Julian Monfries' report our surprise, after advertising this on the 'Original End-to- third End-to-End, when 144 walkers End Walk', both Julian registered! Marshalling leaders from End-to-End 1 and 2, and enlisting and Dean Mortimer three large Genesis buses, we were, continue the story. paradoxically, relieved when only 121 turned up on the first day. BUILDING MOMENTUM End-to-End 3 finished in 2011, with So, after finishing the first End-to-End, around 54 walkers completing the Trail. what happened next? Not that much! It was this group, under the tutelage of Simon, that introduced the idea of Some walkers who hadn't finished their themes — something that has caught Heysen journey joined informally to on with varying degrees of success THE WARREN BONYTHON complete the Trail — known as the HEYSEN TRAIL FOUNDATION amongst subsequent End-to-Enders. 'Millennium Catch-up Walk' (later was established as the Simon's article from TrailWalker fundraising arm of the as End-to-End 2). Unfortunately, the Spring 2011 perfectly summed up Friends of the Heysen Trail group leader departed as soon as the experience. in order to assist with the he had earned his Heysen honours; development of the Heysen Trail luckily, Jerry Foster came to the rescue "What a wonderful journey it has been, and other walking trails and led members from then on. Jerry traversing the Mt Lofty and Flinders in South Australia. had played backup driver for his wife Ranges travelling through the historic The Foundation is a Michelle, who walked and finished hinterland of South Australia. Sharing registered charity with tax with End-to-End 1. In fact, it was the each other's company, trading adventures deductible donations being Fosters who wrote the End-to-End and celebrating in every town we stopped. directed towards improving the reference which all leaders still use Saturday nights were the scene of home- environment along the Trail. today. Jerry also recruited the much- cooked feasts hosted by community loved Gavin from Rufus Bus Service, and service clubs. Christmas in July at who remain our transport providers for Burra brought new life to the 12 days every End-to-Ender in their final year. of Christmas, and the "Royal Variety" MAKE YOUR The End-to-End 2 walking group are performance at Wirrabara showed just TAX-DEDUCTIBLE how talented walkers are. DONATION ONLINE known for completing the shortest ever day on the Trail. It was decided In the last week of walking the excitement wbheysentrailfoundation.org.au after nearly becoming bogged en builds, the mountain vistas lift the gaze,

route to the destination, the bus would In addition, lifetime membership and the scenery catches your breath. The divert, and hikers would instead attack of the Foundation can also be walking is easy, and the nights are a obtained by payment of $25 the stretch from Warren Gorge in the party. The last day is a wild melange of through the website. east (now a common route). After fun, frolic and trail memories with just a having walked four kilometres to arrive tincture of sadness that it has ended. at the Trail, and less than 100 metres Having witnessed two previous finishes, on the Trail itself, they aborted the day, I can attest that the end of the trail is with conditions too miserable and the the beginning of new adventures and the threat of hypothermia too real. continuation of friendships. After six years HARNESSING EARLY SUCCESS you have accumulated walking partners for life, and if you have finished the Trail, In April 2006, End-to-End 3 began on you have succumbed to its charms and the back of the success of the first wiles. A love affair with a living trail that iteration, with Simon Cameron taking will endure to the last horizon." the helm. At this stage, the Friends hadn't thought to do them every year, End-to-End 4 followed after a three- year hiatus, with Nick Langsford and The End-to-End story continues WINTER 2020 • 13

Heather Nimmo coordinating efforts. The team were again shocked to have an incredible 202 walkers book Welcome New Members on! At that point, we stopped accepting registrations. The President and the Council would like to extend a warm welcome Again, as 'luck' would have it due to to the following 55 members who have joined the Friends since the the previous day's wet and windy last edition of Trailwalker. conditions, only 144 turned up, though Genesis still had to come to Colleen Rodney Dodd Jennifer Kim Schwarz the party with four large buses. End- Adriaanse Philip Evans Meacham Olive Schwarz to-End 4 culminated in 2014, with Walter Mary Mitchell 74 walkers crossing the finish line; 40 Eric Felgate Cass Selwood Adriaanse of these completing the entire Trail. Harry Gillespie Lorraine Charlie Glenda Moore Selwood GOING ANNUAL Rakesh Gopal Battersby Robin Moore Sara Grafton Matilda Since the Friends launched the concept Tracy Belling Peter Moriarty Selwood of annual walking groups in 2010, the David Grimes Linda Bowes Yolande Morris Melanie organisation has organised 11 new Trish Hansen Sandra Selwood Walking Groups along the Heysen (six Suzanne Napier Braithwaite Glen Harrison of which have since finished), while Paul Nicholas Mick Sims Tricia Bubner Tanya Harrison another two had planned to commence Chris Robson Tanya Stacey this year, but were postponed due to Scott Chandler Georgie Hart Leonie Robson Kenneth Stuart the COVID-19 outbreak. Barbara John Hart Jarrod Rueff Tori Tassone All of these groups share special Christensen Trish Hensley Jannett Russ Peter Wood moments on the Trail, but some seem Susan Clark Joe Hoogland to have a little more fortune than Alison Russell Rebecca Wu Kate Cotellessa Dara Lancaster others. End-to-End 5 has the dubious Clayton Schwarz Keryn Yorke honour of walking the longest ever Daryl Curyer Kev McDonald Darren Schwarz Stephen Young reroute after the Wirrabara fires Sharon Curyer Robin McEgan brushed through the region in 2014. End-to-End 11 too have endured their share of obstacles with lingering injuries plaguing both hikers and leaders alike. In contrast, End-to-End 7 (otherwise known as the Blessed 7s) BLINMAN, SA could barely recall a day when they had to utilise their wet weather gear FLINDERS & BEYOND throughout the entire northbound CAMEL TREKS trip. Realising the variable fortunes Join us in 2021 on a trek Walking treks fully catered. Swags of the walk, End-to-End 13 decided to and transfers included. No roads, no embrace their stereotypically ominous that completes the Heysen vehicles, no mobile reception; detach number and select a black cat as Trail’s remote section from hectic everyday life and enjoy ‘Beyond Heysen’. an unforgettable experience that will their mascot, while several members create memories to last a life time. begin their day's journey by walking Explore hidden treasures of the under a ladder. Flinders Ranges with camels carrying FOR MORE INFORMATION your supplies. Trek through gum-lined T: (08) 8648 3713 Astonishingly, End-to-Ends have creek beds, towering gorges, rare geological formations and sparkling dry E: info@flindersandbeyondcamels.com.au become so popular that many book lakes. See native flora and fauna in its out within hours of registrations natural habitat and enjoy a night sky opening; competition is fierce! At laser show with astronomer Ryan. last count, nearly 1,000 walkers have participated in the programme, with a number of walkers on their second or third journeys along the Trail. We must be doing something right!

The original article 'The original End- to-End: 20 years on' can be found in Contact us for 2021 trekking dates Autumn Trailwalker 2020. Article Title WINTER 2020 • 14

fitness in a variety of ways. However, I believe we significantly undervalue the wide-ranging benefits of the humble The mental walk and the dramatic impact it has on our biochemistry, and therefore both our physical and mental health. and physical What do you notice when you go for a walk in your favourite national park, or along the beach? A boost to your mood? health effects A feeling of increased energy (the physical activity paradox — expending energy makes us feel more energised)? of walking A sense of having a better perspective on life’s worries? When you get into a routine of regular walking do you HELEN DONOVAN notice improved sleep and a tendency to make healthier food choices? It is all these things and more that led me to a desire to better understand the chemistry of the links between mental health and physical health, and the more I learn, the more interested I become. “ Each choice we make has the potential to influence our biochemistry, which shapes our next choice. I think of it as a series of mini upward or downward spirals. ” Our daily health behaviours are a complex interplay between routines, our environment, and the cause and effect of each preceding choice (amongst other things, like our genetic make-up). Each choice we make has the potential to influence our biochemistry, which shapes our next choice. I think of it as a series of mini upward or downward spirals. We tend to be both proactive and Photo: Philip Bell reactive in those choices (and much of our decision-making is built into our routines, which requires less conscious decision-making). Let us look at just a couple of biochemical impacts that you Dr Helen Donovan, ost of us have had create for your internal world when the experience of you make the decision to include a Executive Director of going for a walk and daily walk. Walking SA and Health noticing we feel a As we move toward the end of Autumn Psychologist, highlights little (or a lot) better it is getting a little colder and wetter at the end of it. We also have a broad in the mornings, but today, you decide the mental and physical Munderstanding that physical activity is to get up and go for a walk anyway — benefits of walking. good for us and helps to build physical raincoat on. Your dog is especially The mental and physical effects of walking WINTER 2020 • 15 happy and bounds up to you ready the Killer T cells. Previous studies to come with you. You smile at her have shown walking for just 30 Keeping your excitement, and so begins your minutes increases the concentration positive biochemical spiral. Like most of Killer T cells in the body. Killer inspiration systems in your body, that little smile T cells roam around your body and involves multiple systems, including destroy cancer cells! I think that is for the Trail your brain, nerves and hormones. worth reading again — your humble Click on the icons Your smile causes the release of daily walk is reducing your risk of chemical messengers into your cancer. It also boosts the size of to view the online nervous system that communicate to your hippocampus (the part of your accounts for these your brain to let you know that you brain responsible for consolidating Heysen adventures. are happy. This triggers the release of information from short-term memory our ‘happy hormone’ trio: dopamine, to long-term memory) and buffers serotonin and endorphins. This trio against memory loss and dementia. helps you to relax and gives you a Regular exercise, like walking, is also little mood boost. Dopamine is a correlated with improved self-efficacy, motivator to continue with rewarding your belief in your own ability to behaviours (like walking and PLAN B (YOUTUBE) influence events that effect your life smiling!), serotonin helps to regulate and control over the way these events Plan B's Youtube Page your mood, and endorphins act on are experienced. Regular walking the opiate receptors in your brains, helps us to feel we can accomplish reducing pain and boosting pleasure. more in our day, and in our life.

You exit your urban street and hit the “ green space of your local park. As you Stress, especially long walk through the park you are feeling JEZ (BLOG) periods of it, weakens great from the positive biochemical your immune system. cascade you have already created jez-heysen.blogspot.com By exercising, you are internally (any walk is a good walk!). reducing the production As you smell the eucalyptus, hear the birds, and see the surrounding of stress hormones and trees, you feel more relaxed. The helping your immune mechanisms are not fully understood system and general but walking in nature is associated with BANE OF THE TRAIL (BLOG) wellbeing. even better health outcomes, including reductions in cortisol levels, heart rate, baneofthetrail.ca/heysen-trail ” and blood pressure, and an overall improvement in wellbeing. Some You step out the door with Fido and research suggests the phytoncides head to the park. On your way you (wood essential oils) released by trees pass a couple of neighbours out and positively affect the human endocrine about. You smile and nod hello (top and immune systems. NEANDERJOEL (BLOG) up booster of happy hormones!). All this (and so much more) from People who walk regularly in their neanderjoel.wordpress.com neighbourhood tend to have higher enjoying a daily walk! So, where are levels of social connectedness which you walking today? Check out is related to increased wellbeing. Walking SA’s ‘find a place to walk’ database to explore somewhere new: As you hit your stride you experience www.walkingsa.org.au/walk/find-a- an extra boost in endorphins and a place-to-walk and keep an eye out for decrease in your stress hormones, our work-in-progress, bringing you a CARL GREENSTREET (RAMBLR) cortisol and adrenaline. Stress, new challenge: www.adelaide100.com gstreet's Ramblr Account especially long periods of it, weakens because guess what else increases your immune system. By exercising, brain volume and brain health? you are reducing the production New experiences! of stress hormones and helping your immune system and general wellbeing. That boost in endorphins Dr Helen Donovan is the Executive reduces the morning aches and pains Director of Walking SA and a Health TREKKING WEST (BLOG / YOUTUBE) and you are feeling great. Next come Psychologist. Trekking West Pages WINTER 2020 • 16

What hiking taught me about dealing with social isolation JOSH WEST

Photo: Josh West

Climbing to the Cruz de Ferro, Camino

Trail Ambassador Bans on non-essential intrastate, the proverb goes, silence is golden. interstate and international travel Without the continuous torrent of Josh West recaps his are already in effect here in Australia outside voices shaping our decision- experiences with social and throughout much of the world. making, an often over-influenced inner isolation on the trail. With our typical social liberties and voice can reinvent its message. freedoms temporarily suspended, Following weeks of wafting around the many face losing their identity and South Australian wilderness on my first side from confronting a motivation. previously untapped level multi-day solo hike, I finally felt ‘me’ of back pain, the most ‘Social isolation’ can feel like a dirty again. Status-hungry society no longer challenging aspect of my phrase; however, if approached in impacted my thinking; my profession, first multi-day solo hike the right frame of mind, this period income, education, degrees and involved battling the hidden depths can present a bevy of benefits. The material possessions did not define Aof social isolation. Initially, walking positives I’ve absorbed from solo me; my character stripped clean. I for days between towns without any hiking, then subsequently repurposed could finally reassess who I was, what I face-to-face interaction was unnerving, throughout my life, will help me wanted to be, and where I was going. navigate the imminent COVID-19 then jarring, then draining. Knowing After re-emerging from isolation, I felt shut-in. Here are a hatful of values I I faced social solitude for up to a week surprisingly motivated and productive; developed from time spent in social at a time left me feeling unsuspectedly and I wasn’t the only one. Sir Isaac isolation. deflated — this mental sluggishness Newton discovered gravity while was not a test I had expected to REDEFINITION AND GROWTH practising safe social distancing as the encounter. However, as the weeks plague impacted Europe in the mid- went by, and the detachment became Embracing sustained periods of 1600s. Take your time; be patient; be routine, I gradually discovered peaceful solitude — by taking the time kind to yourself. You may not reinvent the many advantages of spending to stop, think and reflect — allows for the laws of motion, but you may just uninterrupted periods in my own head. unforeseeable self-development. As reinvent yourself. What hiking taught me about dealing with social isolation WINTER 2020 • 17

LEARN THE VALUE OF The outbreak of COVID-19 holds home doesn’t demand such primal INDEPENDENCE daunting health and economic simplicity, though, some modern implications around the globe, but privileges may still have to wait. The love, warmth and support there are still positives we can collect Embracing minimalism isn’t always from your nearest and dearest is an from the rubble. After decades of easy, but it does get easier; and, when extraordinarily beautiful thing, but suffocation, the planet is finally our rituals finally return, an increased so, I would say, is the nourishment breathing again; communities are sense of gratitude, appreciation and you give yourself. Developing working together, and we have empathy will inevitably follow. genuine independence, in the face already begun building our resilience. of isolated adversity, has galvanised We must rely on our positivity, WHAT WE CAN ALL DO my resilience. humour, generosity and togetherness By no means should ‘independence’ to see us through this pandemic and Stay safe, stay local, stay positive, be taken as merely ‘looking out for propel us into the recovery phase. and for goodness sake, stay healthy. number one’; hoarding essential Breaking the constant stream of Exercise! If possible, visit a nearby supplies and other Machiavellian negative messaging goes a long way to park or cut a couple of laps of the traits only generate panic and feeding that optimism. block. When you go for a walk, it’s not unnecessary stress. Instead, just your body that benefits, the way independence relates to having your EMBRACE MINIMALISM you think and feel changes too! The own self-worth, confidence and Living without life’s routine world can appear less complicated ability to govern yourself. refinements on the trail took some after a mind-cleansing stroll. Despite all the challenges we face adjusting; especially when only the in the near and distant future, barest of essentials squeezed into “ including people’s urge to clean out my supply box. However, before long, rationing became standard, Set yourself up to be a the toilet paper aisle, I know, with better, rounded individual patience and compassion, we will ‘normality’ turned to indulgence, and rebuild; hopefully, with an enhanced luxury seemed almost unjustifiable. at the end of your isolation. sense of open-mindedness. Daily showers were a distant memory, cooked meals were eternally savoured, ” TAKE THE POSITIVES OUT bedsheets were a curious novelty and OF EVERY SITUATION hot water flowing directly from a tap We’re all bracing for what is to come, felt like alchemist-conjured sorcery. and it won’t be easy, but, if you have It could be argued, that, as a society, the means, set yourself up to be a we’re programmed to absorb better, rounded individual at the end doom and gloom. We are regularly of your isolation. exposed to abrupt headlines from “ newspapers, scandalous lead stories When our rituals finally And finally, if circumstances allow, from 6 o’clock bulletins, shock jocks return, an increased sense of get out into the wilderness and spewing confrontational bile and gratitude, appreciation and appreciate all the things you’ve taken ‘Karen from Facebook’ sharing her empathy will inevitably follow. for granted. I know I am. views. I can understand; outrage sells. However, after inadvertently distancing myself from these toxic ” If you are struggling with self- mediums on the trail, I discovered Self-isolation on a hike requires isolation, seek help. Chat to friends, that I became more open to seeing forfeiting everyday creature comforts; family and health professionals. If the positives. fortunately, social distancing at it's urgent, call Lifeline on 13 11 14.

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ASK A HIKER What is your secret scroggin ingredient?

I like to include three liquorice allsorts - you

know, the cubes with layers

of candy and liquorice. Highly impractical in hot To be honest, I’m not a I don't have much of a Each one is my reward for weather, but as far as I’m scroggin devotee, as it sweet tooth, so I mostly completing a particular concerned, you can’t go past generally interferes with enjoy the savoury snacks challenge. I try to save the dark chocolate. It is a real my habit of talking (cashews and soy crisps last one as my reward for energy booster that contains incessantly. My favourite are such a great combo). getting to the end. caffeine for a “fix” and variety is OP’s (other But for me, every snack increases endorphins, the people’s). The fact that bag needs a few Cool PETER WYNEN feel good chemical, to give fellow walkers keep Mints! They are perfect Past Trailwalker Editor you a quick pick-me-up. offering it to me may have for clearing out that something to do with the horrible taste in your JUDY MCADAM opening sentence of my mouth after a store bought Walk Leader answer. freeze-dried meal, and Trailthinker offer just enough of a Quiz Answers DOM HENSCHKE work out on the jaw to Office Chair keep things interesting! 1. Mount Woodroffe (Ngarutjaranya) 2. PLAN B David Unaipon ($50 Through-hiker banknote) 3. 1976 (9 km within the Cleland Conservation Park) 4. Kapunda 5. 1977 No doubt about it; 6. Victoria Square Starburst Snakes. After (Tarntanyangga), traipsing through the Hindmarsh Square wilderness and munching On End-to-End 5, I was (Mukata), Light Square my way through fist-fulls of known as Carol with the (Wauwi), Hurtle nuts, dried fruit and seeds, pantry in her backpack; Square (Tangkaira) there may be nothing more along the trail I would I typically enjoy walking and Whitmore Square satisfying as tucking into continously snack. I always in warmer climes, so (Iparrityi) 7. City a gelatinous treat that I've include chocolate which what could be better than of Onkaparinga dutifully saved for the final gives me that boost of chocolate that doesn’t melt. 8. 1986 (the same march into camp. energy when I feel my M&Ms (pictured) for me. year the Friends was founded) energy running low. SIMON CAMERON JOSH WEST 9. Larapinta Trail Ambassador CAROL HOMEWOOD Heysen Highlights Author 10. New South Wales Council Member

Book Review WINTER 2020 • 19

and Mt Lofty in SA. This influx led Book to a gradual blossoming of group walks led along tracks previously Review: The established by bush workers, bridle ways of the paths or livestock routes. Bushwalker EARLY CLUBS The book explores the growing Melissa Harper, The awareness for organisation among ways of the Bushwalker: walkers late in the 19th-century. On foot in Australia As such, planning became more (UNSW Press, 2007) common among sporting groups and throughout other parts of society, like Melanie Sjoberg trade unions and political parties. investigates how the role of a “ bushwalker has A deep-felt concern emanated from some developed over the of the early groups that centuries. allowing just anyone to join a walk would diminish the bushwalking ethos. ooks are my vice, and As we isolate and keep physically ” second-hand bookshops distant under COVID-19, the nurture my passion. When importance of walking – preferably in The early stories show that it was that shop offers coffee and nature – seems even more evident. predominantly professional city types snacks, I'm at serious risk of heading bush for some escapism or randomly discovering yet another read COLONIAL RAMBLING clear air and invokes a reality that you Bthat piques my interest. The Ways of needed mobility, transport and finances A fascinating section from the earliest the Bushwalker provides an intriguing days of the colony outlines experiences, to be able to get away from the city. guide to the evolution of bushwalking elicited from diaries, that find early They also indicate that walks tended to groups in Australia, presenting an settlement walkers spending long preclude women whose social situation insight into precursors to the Friends hours, as they explored the rivers, ordinarily required genteel activity of Heysen Trail and other groups. lakes, hills and mountains of their new under a chaperone or that working surroundings. The author suggests this women were too busily consumed with The author acknowledges upfront feeding and caring for large families. that the book doesn't cover Aboriginal harked back to practices from mother England and the Edwardian tradition of These features are not meant to suggest walking practice, albeit recognising early settlers and farmers weren't also that it is an essential element of their taking a turn around the gardens; though I suspect that background probably making inroads into the bush, but culture and imbued with ceremonial simply that walking was not their focus. meaning. Rather, the story traces didn't apply to the convict population. bushwalking origins from colonial Quaint diary remarks date back to 1788 EARLY WALKS times and fundamentally locates the outlining forays into the woods with a Tracing the formal establishment practice as a choice to walk for leisure; gun, food and making a camp by a fire. of bushwalking as an activity, the thereby available to those with a WALKING GUIDES author identifies the eastern states certain social and economic position. I particularly appreciated the outline – specifically NSW and Victoria – as In the early days, it seems bushwalking of Alice Mansfield as one of the earliest the logical forerunners due to the had difficulties being taken seriously 'walking guides' around Victoria's Mt geography, conducive climate and because 'walking' was viewed as such Buffalo from the 1890s to 1930s. As you growing population. It aligned with an "...everyday, mundane..." activity. might imagine for the role of women a burgeoning interest and desire to In 2020 Australia, the practice is still during that period, she apparently explore the landscape and champion part of our every day, but now it's most caused a stir while wearing a pantsuit. Australian nature. Harper also definitely taken seriously. The annual situates the period post WW1 and Ausplay survey shows that walking The availability of experienced guides 1930 Depression as engendering an is the number one activity across the seemed to ignite the development of emphasis on physical health and "racial community and bushwalking comes in tourism-type destinations from Mt strength" thus promoting outdoor at seven just after Aussie Rules Football Buffalo to Healesville and Mt Macedon, activity as part of a wider nationalist (Ausplay SA Data 31 October 2019). the Blue Mountains, Mt Kosciusko trend in community outlook. Book Review WINTER 2020 • 20

WHAT'S IN A NAME? allowing just anyone to join a walk functional, lightweight hiking gear would diminish the bushwalking improving our comfort and allowing Notwithstanding indications that ethos: "... sterner pursuits of increased participation. walking in the bush for leisure was craftmanship and stoical superiority undertaken earlier, Harper traces and endurance to unpleasant use of the word bushwalking to 1920s conditions". It poses an interesting “ with a specific definition related to question even today as to whether There is an ongoing what we'd probably now describe bushwalking is only for those capable challenge in maintaining the as overnight hiking with a pack. It of negotiating rugged wilderness or nature experience in parks would seem at that time if you didn't should walking also be available to and wilderness. "get off the beaten track and know those who prefer a more structured how to find your own way, carry your trail experience and an opportunity ” own gear and camp overnight" you to be immersed in nature? just didn't cut it. Advance to the 21st century, and TRAIL DEVELOPMENTS it seems Harper's theme around The fundamental ethos for walking the protection of natural places groups was to venture into the Leap to the 1980s, and we find continues as a robust debate over wilderness and be self-sufficient, as long-distance marked trails being the protection of wilderness areas well as extending the bushwalker developed across Australia: our and incursion by commercial role to protecting the bush. The own Heysen Trail, as well as the development for private profit has author suggests this is important for Bibbulmum in WA, Australian Alps not diminished. There is an ongoing knowing how the reflected view of Walking Trail, the Hume and Hovell challenge in maintaining the nature bushwalking and its relationship to Track and many more. In more experience in parks and wilderness the landscape shaped 'clubs'. recent years, the commercial that attracts people in the first place tourism sector has created WHOSE BUSH IS IT ANYWAY? alongside opportunities for revenue several high-end luxury 'walks'. from tourism that helps to support It seems a deep-felt concern emanated Trail developments sit alongside regional communities. from some of the early groups that a dynamic shift to ever more

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The Terry Lavender Churchill OPEN FOR ESSENTIAL Fellowship CARAVAN PARK TRAVEL ONLY BEN TREWREN COVID-19 Bookings are required We are not currently taking future bookings The Terry Lavender y name is Ben last year, I travelled to New Zealand, Trewren, and in Canada, United States, United Kingdom Churchill Fellowship 2018, I was incredibly and Switzerland to establish and build was established in humbled to become relationships while also immersing 2017 to provide a South the sole recipient of myself in trail-based experiences. Australian with an this Churchill Fellowship that honours The Natural Choice Ma trail building icon in South Australia, opportunity to follow but also someone who I viewed as my “ cleaning and gardening naturally their passion overseas Outdoor Hero. Maximising the value of shared-use trails is outdoor I pursued this Fellowship in a to investigate ways recreation's greatest challenge Ensuite Cabins | Bunkhouse | One Site Van | Camping to develop, improve, continuation of my passion for surrounded by parklands, with a short stroll to town community, experiential learning and manage and promote the outdoors and wanted to explore ” outdoor recreational opportunities for trail destinations to Gary & Bronwyn Lucas The strength of outdoor experiences trails and pursuits. attract and grow world-class 'shared- come from the relationships we share. use' interests. Between June to August [email protected] 8648 6206 The Terry Lavender Churchill Fellowship WINTER 2020 • 22

Having the pleasure of meeting with key outdoor leaders from across 73 different organisations, including the Main: Enjoying US National Park Service, Leave No the majestic view Trace, Ramblers UK, NZ Federated across Yosemite Mountain Clubs, Trailforks (to name National Park from Tunnel View. a few) throughout my Fellowship is something I'll never take for granted.

“ Right: Taking on The outdoors matters a 10km round trip into The Narrows, because it brings people Zion National together, in community. Park. Hiking at least ankle deep in water was an ” experience. Many understand a shared trail as infrastructure that equally and respectfully supports multiple recreation and transportation Photos: Maddie opportunities. I consider the word Trewren and 'share' an interesting one, defined Ben Trewren. by our ability to collectively use a resource or space. An action to consider everyone's interests and allows us all a chance to undertake our to Rainbow Lake (Whistler, Canada), respond in a manner that allows own experiences that can challenge, through Yosemite Valley (USA), up us all to thrive. Maximising the grow, inspire and connect us. to Angels Landing and through the value of shared-use trails is outdoor Narrows in Zion National Park (USA), recreation's greatest challenge — how My Churchill Adventure has reinforced along the New York Highline (USA), the do we get multiple users to share in me the communal value of the Bristol to Bath Shared Path, through trails, activate the spaces the trails outdoors and reminded me of the Waterfall Country in Brecon Beacons surround and engage those users endless possibilities there are to and up to Pen Y Fan (UK). I also had the in a meaningful and enjoyable way. improve our communities through chance to hike sections of thru-hikes Shared-use is much more than just outdoor trails. Furthermore, I have including the Te Araroa Trail (NZ), a practical use. It's about sharing a greater appreciation for the value Pacific Crest Trail and Appalachian in community, responsibility, that outdoor trails can have to create Trail (USA) and numerous Rail Trails. history, mutual respect, ownership, opportunities for inclusion, diversity knowledge, skills and most and accessibility in our communities. We're living in a dynamic and importantly, experience. demanding world. The importance Over two months, I had the chance to of the outdoors and the experiential The outdoors matters because it adventure on over 250 km of different opportunities to learn, grow and brings people together, in community. hiking trails. Highlights included, but develop through shared adventures are A place for people to belong, a space certainly weren't limited to, hiking as critical as ever. Outdoor trails are of for people to feel equal. The outdoors up to Makara Peak (Wellington, NZ),

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The Terry Lavender Churchill Fellowship WINTER 2020 • 23 interest to everyone. Represented by a decisions we're making for tomorrow. It's bushwalking, mountain biking, cycling, diverse cross-section of our broad and our shared responsibility to protect and horse riding, and/or trail running. diverse community, the attraction is conserve our natural outdoor spaces, Whistler, as a town and trails gathered from our sense of adventure to utilise trails to connect with cultural destination, was easily my favourite and inquisition into the benefits and historical understanding and to place to visit. This Canadian village has for our physical, mental, social and embrace community in facilitating a combination of a small-town vibe, emotional health. interactive opportunities through friendly local culture, great food and recreation, tourism and enterprise. The Tahoe Rim Trail in California accommodation options, stunning was undoubtedly the best shared trail natural landscape, resourced with a experience I had. A single unsealed “ diversity of local businesses, access to trail, consisting of day and multi-day Solutions begin with high-quality equipment and of course options around the popular Lake individuals taking world-class trails for all types of users Tahoe that regularly facilitates the made it a very fun experience. collective use of walkers, bike riders ownership and Shared understanding allows us a and horse riders. The trail supports responsibility collective of outdoor trail users, to all users through good infrastructure respect, relate with, collaborate on and and management, but it's the organic ” influence decision-makers, Government strength of the local community and The outdoors brings people together, departments, peak representative the diversity of users that sets a culture and it's well known that experiences bodies, landowners, clubs, community which not only promotes but takes are often better when shared. It is my groups and local businesses. ownership in maintaining the trail. hope that sharing my experiences will Solutions begin with individuals taking We're part of a world where how we appeal to all trail users — especially ownership and responsibility and then interact today, matters as much as the those with an interest in walking, seeking to gather and mobilise other

CREATE MORE ›› Providing an equalised BEN'S THREE SHAPE A FUTURE OPPORTUNITIES FOR WITH SHARED AND platform to allow RECOMMENDATIONS INCLUSION, DIVERSITY EXPERIENTIAL diversity to share FOR US ALL TO & ACCESSIBILITY APPROACHES together. Especially CONSIDER: ›› The outdoors should be a ›› Continue to explore those who have been place for ALL people. opportunities to allow marginalised from exposure to outdoor LET'S INCREASE THE ›› Adapt and transition outdoor experiences experiences. VALUE OF COMMUNITY between generational to challenge and then IN OUTDOOR TRAILS differences, appreciating influence traditional ›› Our society's challenges forms of education of unemployment, ›› Recognising that the experiences of the past and learning, not health, isolation can be developing, supporting and accepting the new just for young people, positively influenced and maintaining trail perspectives of the future. but all people. and affected by outdoor users and groups is as ›› Explore and undertake more experiences. important as the trail offerings and opportunities ›› Engage people in networks themselves. to take risks, develop new all components of ›› Trails can be the starting trails – recreation, point for exampling ›› Offer more places and ideas, create memories – enterprise, trail a more adventurous, spaces for people to whether it be a program, building, conservation, communal, sustainable connect, share, learn business, expedition. cultural recognition and healthy world. and grow together. ›› Recognition that everyone and others as relevant is on their own personal ›› Create multilateral to each trail's location. opportunities to journey, especially in the ›› Consider how trails can support one another – outdoors. play a role in overcoming recreationally (activities), ›› Facilitate opportunities broader community- economically (business/ for diversity to be brought based challenges such enterprise) and socially together in harmony – as unemployment, (relationships). irrespective of background, health, rehabilitation experience, ability, gender, ›› Remind ourselves of the and climate change. importance that if we age or otherwise. ›› Present pathways for value something, ›› Consideration towards both experiential, hands- we should invest in it – practical (signage, trails) on, practical, real either with our money and cultural (acceptance, world learning. or our time. shared) improvements. The Terry Lavender Churchill Fellowship WINTER 2020 • 24

like-minded people to help us collectively overcome challenges together. Finally, I wanted to pass on my thanks One of the many and appreciation to the many Friends Shared Use signs of the Heysen Trail who invested in the from across the adventure reflecting Terry Lavender Churchill Fellowship, opportunities for who supported me with their time both multiple users to prior to and after my travels and for all access trails together. the resources and information that has been passed along. It was a huge privilege to travel to trails across the world, to continue exploring the future possibilities for trails on behalf of Terry's legacy and to share about South Australia's most iconic trail – the Heysen Trail.

Read Ben's report in full. View the full Churchill Fellowship Report via bltrewren.wixsite.com/ bentrewren/churchill-fellowship- report

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Photo: Claire Brear A new shade of green: tramping Te Araroa KIRBY DRAPER

Tararua Ranges, NZ North Island

With only nine days and green. This colour is showcased patterns created by the sliding drops in its most spectacular form in alpine for longer than I could justify to avoid remaining on her landscapes, under precise conditions donning my inevitably wet socks, fundraising trek along in springtime sunlight, when the silt, which, by daybreak, were usually still one of the world's longest or rock flour, is at its most bountiful. frozen solid. As had become tradition, I was precisely 2,773 km into my 3000 a South Island robin would visit me trails, Kirby Draper km endeavour to hike the length of under my tent vestibule, throwing all had to depart the Te New Zealand's mountainous bushland; caution to the wind in favour of his Araroa as the COVID-19 it was day 138; I had not seen so much curiosity. Today he perched himself as a grocery store in a month, and I on top of my teacup, helping himself Pandemic decended. was enveloped by green. to a sip of morning caffeine before I awoke in my tent around 7.00 am. busying himself with the contents or the longest time, my My morning starts had become later of my rucksack. I smiled to myself, favourite colour has been and chillier with each passing day. thinking about the night before when I turquoise: a particular hue The rainfall droplets on my tent had mapped out the final stretch of my nestled somewhere on the had become my simplest form of hike. I pulled out my roughly sketched spectrum between blue F entertainment. I would study the plan again and studied it in disbelief. A new shade of green: tramping Te Araroa WINTER 2020 • 26

After five months of walking, I would The rollercoaster of emotions is nicely to collapse, only intensifying the flow. stand at the finish line in a mere nine demonstrated by my sixty-fourth day The first one of our fleet was sucked in days. My grin broadened. I didn't know on the trail. About three quarters along at a side angle and disappeared under it yet, but today would be my last day the journey down the North Island, a the immense waves. Remarkably, he on the Te Araroa. Unbeknown to me, 160 km section of trail is required to was spat out the other side unharmed. the chaos unfolding in the outside be completed by canoe in the white The second was forced to surrender to world would soon bleed in. water rapids of the mighty Whanganui the flow; they would not be so lucky. Taking on a long-distance trail is easy to River. The scenery on this thing was The bow of their boat crashed into romanticise, and there is a good reason something out of a sci-fi film — endless the fallen tree trunk, causing them why — during my time on the Te Araroa, kilometres surrounded by a twelve- to capsize mid-rapid. Both of the I was exposed to experiences that metre vertical jungle as you whizzed passengers were sucked under by the were so breathtaking that I struggled down a pristine river. Even though current. Their boat's thwart faced the to reconcile them as real. But the I had cumulatively paddled for over tide, causing the canoe to bow back vividness of this journey also brought 36 hours by this stage and my upper on itself — threatening to snap in half about times of intense monochromatic body had entered a stage of paralysis, and leave us stranded. The canoe's melancholy. The only thing that I could it was hard not to be caught up in an contents surged out of reach down the rely on, where my emotions were opalescence of privilege, joy and awe. river. Terror ensued. I screamed at my concerned, was their inconsistency. However, in true Kiwi style, and I boat mate to paddle harder, as I had If they were measured, I am sure they suppose what is also true for general completely lost control of my steer and would have resembled the elevation human existence, we were taking managed, only just, to manoeuvre the profile of a mountain range. on this section without a guide or boat to safe harbour. sufficient training on how to navigate the 200 plus rapids. “ As a safety precaution, you are required “ Unbeknown to me, the chaos to buddy up with another canoe. I was There was a sense of elation unfolding in the outside lucky enough to have a safety net of when the rescued barrel world would soon bleed in. three. Later in the afternoon, in the contained a hefty supply middle of an uncharacteristically still of beer. ” stretch of river, we lowered our guards and afforded ourselves a well-earned While misty mountain tops brought ” rest from paddling. Up ahead, we heard on feelings of achievement and the familiar sounds of a crashing rapid The three of us began swimming elatedness, the terror of spending but saw nothing. We chatted unwittingly against the current to enact a rescue. eleven hours clambering up and down before it was too late; the swirl became I was in such a state of panic that my sharp, rocky bluffs equipped with too strong to arrange ourselves mind has completely blocked out how sheer drops and no safety equipment correctly into the mouth of the largest we went about achieving that. I only prompted levels of exhaustion and rapid we would encounter; cue a state recall rescuing a barrel and dragging vulnerability that I didn't care to fully of helpless panic. it back towards the shore which also recognise other than to crawl into my housed the damaged boat and two very tent and sob myself to sleep in the To add insult to injury, the fury of the wet, but alive, crewmates. absence of dinner. torrent had caused an enormous tree

Photo: Mathias Poths

Trying to take in all 1,019 square kilometres of Nelson Lakes National Park A new shade of green: tramping Te Araroa WINTER 2020 • 27

There was a sense of elation when the rescued barrel contained a hefty supply of beer. We each cracked a brew and sat laughing in a state of shock. When we reached camp that night, I went to sleep with an odd sense of contentment, knowing that we were all sleeping safely beside each other. I reflected on the underlying cause for my peculiar sense of calm after such an ordeal. And to me, the answer lies in what I would lose: I would feel discontentment if I didn't do something, purely because of the risks that they posed. If I had to choose between allowing the flow to Photo: Kirby Draper Breast Hill Track, Hāwea Conservation Park guide me or to swim upstream, I would almost always prefer to feel the force of the current. ability to continue moving forward. ignored, I risked losing a perspective Fast forward one hundred or so days Adaptability to the unexpected was that was worth something to me. and the ending that I had fantasised a prerequisite for my progression. I Learning to appreciate the spectrum about for five months had all but arrived; became accustomed to hiking in rain, for what it is, without resistance, though it wasn't what I expected. I hail, shine and even snow. In turn, I taught me that this range not had been hiking for four days without had come to appreciate the different only brings a greater comparative signal, only to be spurted out the other qualities this reveals in the landscape vibrancy, but sometimes, you will be side into a barrage of text messages around me. Thinking fleetingly, it is lucky enough to discover something that New Zealand was heading for easy — even convenient — to categorise completely new — a new shade of green. stage four lockdown. The world had objects by colour and immediately entered the COVID-19 Pandemic. dismiss the thought. But after five I struggled to grapple with the lack months of walking, the colour green Kirby Draper has raised of control I held over my own trail had demanded my scrutiny. In $11,000 for BackTrack to conclusion. When I had planned to be the morning sunlight, the forest is help disadvantaged kids climbing my last mountain towards prismatically ablaze; in the afternoon stay alive, out of jail, and the finish line, I found myself on a rain, the palette shifts by its own chasing their dreams. plane home surrounded by face masks. iridescence, revealing a vividness, which Now, with the benefit of reflection, I can is hidden in conditions of direct light. To learn more about Kirby’s appreciate the message that the forced The colours of my surroundings, like adventures in New Zealand, conclusion of my journey carried with it. my emotions, are on an ever-changing and to donate to BackTrack, Over time, becoming comfortable spectrum. Each point of that spectrum visit www.trampingsouth.com with discomfort became integral to my held a quality that, had it been

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WINTER 2020 • 28

he highest mountains in any country always attract SEAN BENZ walkers and climbers to ascend its slopes and Ben Nevis, the highest Tmountain in the British Isles, standing A wee tour at 1344m, is no exception. Annually, more than 100,000 people climb ‘the Ben’, as it is affectionately of Ben Nevis: known, with the vast majority going up the ‘tourist track’. This means missing out on the real beauty of the mountain A hike around and the dramatic rock architecture of the north face. Did those hikers really know how imposing the mountain is 'the Ben' and how wild the land is behind it? As a director of North West Frontiers, I wanted to create a new walking Originally published by Cicerone. adventure for the holiday programme. I also believed that the tour had value in being an attraction for adventurous walkers and had the attributes to make it a standout multi-day hike. I wanted to keep the tour to less than a week, as it would not only fit with the tour programmme for North West Frontiers but had the potential to become a great walk in its own right. I knew the local area was well serviced with public transport, accommodation and luggage transfers. The question was whether I could connect all these things to make a light-weight hiking tour round Ben Nevis. On several Alpine long-distance hikes, you can connect with post bus services, use ski area summer uplifts and stay in a mountain refuge. The only way to find out if this was going to work was to get the boots on and see if it would work on the ground. Over the course of 18 months, I hiked the different options multiple times Photos: Sean Benz until I found a route that I felt worked and delivered what I wanted. The result Having ventured on the was a route that covered just over 100km Annapurna Circuit and with nearly 4500m of ascent, which included climbing Ben Nevis. It could be the tours of Mont Blanc, completed in five days, or six if an ascent the Matterhorn and Monte of the Ben was made. Walking times Rosa, Sean Benz couldn’t varied from six to 10 hours and covered distances of up to 26km. Accommodation help wondering why the was available on each night and on most UK doesn’t have its own days there was always a plan B in case the grand tour around its weather turned for the worse. Luggage transfer services were available, including highest mountain. options to use public transport and the potential for one night in the wilderness without the need to camp. A wee tour of Ben Nevis WINTER 2020 • 29

Over five days the circuit climbs remote DAY 2 mountains, ventures into wild corries speckled with lochans that are home My initial thought had been to extend the to golden eagles, deer, mountain hares route further east towards Laggan, but and ptarmigans. The route explores this would have made the route too long. much of the wonderfully remote It would also mean no accommodation hinterland using many of the historical except for camping, which is not part of paths and tracks that have shaped the my idea. It’s somewhat convenient that history of the Highlands. It can be in the remote lands to the south, on the completed in either direction, although edge of Rannoch Moor, is Loch Ossian clockwise would be the preferred (pictured right) and Corrour Station. Here option. This enables the walker to ease is a wonderfully remote Youth Hostel on themselves in, with the days becoming the shores of the loch, which provides progressively harder on the final days dormitories. Corrour Station also offers back to Fort William. Spring through accommodation in the Station House to autumn is the best time of year and, and meals are available in the restaurant. their onward travels. This is a timely having hiked it in winter, it makes Staying at either gives a real sense of reminder as the route now heads into for a challenging expedition and one isolation and a wonderful experience, some very remote country that should certainly not to be underestimated. especially given the ease of access with not be underestimated. Corrour the Glasgow to Fort William railway. Station certainly makes for a welcome DAY 1 sight after 26km of walking. Out of all the days on the route, the “ There is the option of staying another first is the most difficult to piece The ‘Wee Minister’ wishes night in Spean Bridge and taking the together. Initially, there seems to be walkers and climbers good train back, although you’d need to only two options: the first is to utilise luck on their onward travels. allow some contingency time in case the Great Glen Way as far as Gairlochy of any unforeseen delays as missing then walk on a section of road to ” the train could make for a rough night Spean Bridge. The other is to pick up without a tent! With some clever the tracks through Leanachan Forest, Day two uses the drove road through planning, baggage services can be passing Nevis Range and on to Spean the Lairig Leacach and before heading used to shuttle bags from Spean Bridge Bridge, which is used by another long- through, the ‘Wee Minister’ wishes to Kinlochleven, allowing lightweight distance walk, the East Highland Way. walkers and climbers good luck on travel on this section of the route. None of these options appeal as they followed existing walking routes and offered nothing new. THE STABLES On closer inspection there is another A UNIQUE BURRA EXPERIENCE route sandwiched between the two that I feel has greater merit and that METRES FROM THE TRAIL would also use part of General Wade’s Military Road. The route passes Old Inverlochy Castle, visits Highbridge • Bunks & hayloft bedding • Sleeps up to six and provides the perfect panoramic • Short walk to pub, markets • Log fire & wood oven skyline of the major mountains in the • Minimal electricity and tv • Cast iron hip bath area. Not only will you see the north face of Ben Nevis, there will be Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag, along with the peaks of the Grey Corries. There is a short section on a quiet road from Highbridge into the Leanachan forest, but I feel the attributes of the route outweigh this section. The first day results in 20km on a mix of paths and tracks that give a nice warm- up for what lies ahead. Spean Bridge Part of $ provides plenty of accommodation Olive Grove 27 options and there’s always the option to Retreat T: 08 8892 2679 M: 0447 445 506 P/ PERSON Accom. E: [email protected] utilise the Great Glen luggage services (Linen Extra) to move bags from Fort William. A wee tour of Ben Nevis WINTER 2020 • 30

DAY 3 of good stalkers’ paths lead into the DAY 5 wild corries between the peaks and this From Corrour it is now a case of finding seems to provide the perfect answer in After the exertions of day four, a route west towards Kinlochleven. giving a route over into Glen Nevis. the last section gives easy walking There is an option to retrace the route Looking at the options available there along the River Nevis back into Fort to Loch Treig then head south west is a stalkers’ path that heads east from William, making for a short day. through Gleann lolairean on an old Kinlochleven, making a rising traverse It’s a case of taking the bus back up drove road that leads to a remote bothy around the steep southern slopes Glen Nevis and following the path on on the shores of Loch Chiarain. As this is of Sgurr Eilde Beag and into Coire the river down to the Youth Hostel. a low-level route it is better served as an an Lochain. This allows the route to This is a much-overlooked path and alternative in the event of poor weather. descend into the top of Glen Nevis, is certainly not as busy as the Steall waterfall path. On reaching the youth Standing on the platform of Corrour passing Steall waterfall and down hostel things will get busier, with the Station looking west rises an inviting ridge through the gorge. This will be the combination of West Highland Way leading to the summit of Leum Uilleim. It toughest day of the entire route and one and Ben Nevis walkers on the final seems a perfect fit to bag a peak and avoid certainly not to be underestimated. This section into Fort William and the the need to retrace the steps from the high section of the route is wild and completion of the Tour of Ben Nevis. previous day. Although not a Munro, the magical, with the peaks of Sgor Eilde summit provides stunning uninterrupted Beag and Sgurr Eilde reflected in the views of the Cairngorms, Glencoe and shimmering waters of the lochan. DAY 6 Ben Nevis and feels as if you really are There is only one more thing to do to in a great wilderness. “ finish the tour and that is to ascend From the summit there is no track Easy walking leads down the summit of the mountain that the down to the hut at Loch Chairian, but through Glen Nevis, passing tour had been circumnavigating. Out the slope provides little difficulty with Steall waterfall and on of the two main routes the only option the route soon picking up the path to through the beautiful gorge is via Carn Mor Dearg arete and then the Blackwater Reservoir. From the onto Ben. This is the route that really reservoir the route continues down the showcases the scale and rugged Ciaran Path following the Blackwater ” beauty of the mountain and provides River to Kinlochleven. This is a From the lochan between Binnein Mor the perfect perch to survey the wild beautiful section of trail with lochans, and Binnein Beag, there’s a descent of lands that the tour has travelled. waterfalls and the ever-rushing waters approximately 400m into Glen Nevis. of the river for company. Day three The stalkers’ path ends at the lochan. provides 21km of fantastic walking in Although the descent is not overly steep some very remote country. it does require some navigation to avoid Sean Benz is Coordinator several small rock slabs while aiming Visitor Experiences, There is ample accommodation in for the junction of the Water of Nevis National Parks and Kinlochleven and there’s also the and the Allt Coire na Gabhalach. At Wildlife Service and an option of catching the bus back to Fort low water levels it’s an easy crossing, author for Cicerone. William then returning to Kinlochleven otherwise it’s best to stay on the south the following morning. Bags can Read more of Sean's work at side of the river until a wire bridge. The be shuttled as well using the West www.cicerone.co.uk/authors/ bridge is not for the faint hearted but Highland Way luggage transfer services. sean-benz makes for a great photo opportunity. Kinlochleven gets very busy with the West Highland Way so accommodation Easy walking leads down through needs to be booked well in advance to Glen Nevis, passing Steall waterfall ensure a bed for the night. and on through the beautiful gorge to the road end. There’s a short section DAY 4 of road before crossing back over the river again and on to the car park From Kinlochleven the obvious route at Polldubh. At this point, 17km of is to pick up the last day of the West walking has been completed and Highland Way to Fort William. Again, there’s another 9km until Fort William. this doesn’t fit with the original idea, There’s an option to continue or take although it certainly provides a safe the bus back and complete the last alternative in the event of bad weather. section the following day. The peaks of the Mamores act as barrier between Kinlochleven and Glen Nevis, with few weaknesses in Interested in Mountain Biking? Check out their armour. Fortunately, a number Sean Benz's 'Mountain Biking in West and North West Scotland' available via Cicerone. Gary Pearce Solicitor

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