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Serbia’s Shifting the National - ISSN 1820-8339 1 Political Tides Museum INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Page 5 Page 13

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Issue No. 249 Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in , i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday.

SERBIA’S page 10

ANNOUNCED hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W RESHUFFLE June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

REFLECTS page 5 EAST-WEST conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists

BATTLE Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E Temporarily postponed

because of tensionsFriday • June 13 2008 with Kosovo, the Serbian government’s planned THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED reshuffle is widely seen as a on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. ‘battle’ between pro-Russian T and pro-Western options.

Maja ZIVANOVIC lengthy meeting with President Alek- sandar Vucic on April 1 that the reshuf- hen it happens, the fle would have to wait “for more stable announced reshuf- times in Kosovo”. She added: “We func- fle of the Serbian tion as a team, and this team must be government will be ready more than ever.” the fifth in six years The two officials met to discuss both sinceW the Serbian Progressive Party the reshuffle and the tension caused came to power. after Kosovo arrested and deported Moreover, the latest changes are the head of Serbian office for Kosovo, likely to cast fresh light on the battle be- Marko Djuric, on March 26. tween Eastern and Western influences The daily Blic reported on April 2 in the government, showing which of that the reshuffle had been postponed these interests is in the ascendant. to May. Prime Minister Ana Brnabic told Serbia’s public broadcaster RTS, after a Continued on page 2

Zorana Mihajlovic told Beta news agency that she “didn’t recognize herself in Photo: Beta any stories on reconstruction or any disputes”.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 COMMENT Serbia’s Announced Reshuffle Serbia is Sealing its Reflects East-West Battle Position as Russia’s

embers of the rul- The Progressives seal their control ing Progressives are on power on all levels this time. Best Friend meanwhile busy lob- Four months later, in August 2016, bying for who should Serbia gets a new government, with stay or go. some new names. However, all of them Belgrade and MVladimir Djukanovic, an MP known are members of the parties of the old for his pro-Russian views, has already ruling coalition between the Progres- warned that he will resign if the Infra- sives and the Socialists. Moscow need structure Minister, Zorana Mihajlovic, Vucic replaces the Justice Minister, seen as a pro-Western voice, keeps her the Economy Minister, the Education each other more post, claiming that she caused “the Minister and the Culture Minister. worst possible disharmony in the gov- Although Vucic does not publicly than ever right ernment”. criticise previous ministers, on August “She's not a team player, it’s been my 8 he says that “we need fresh blood”, ac- now – Russia opinion for a long time,” he told N1 tel- cording to Nova ekonomija. evision on March 26. “The new government will be a com- because it is Djukanovic was part of a delegation bination of success, experience and of Serbian MPs that went to Russia in freshness. We saved the backbone of isolated, Serbia March to observe Vladimir Putin’s re- the old government that did a lot of election as President. good things,” Vucic tells parliament on because of Mihajlovic, seen by some as a “US August 8, Nedeljnik reports. protégé” on the other hand, told Beta “Now we need new energy, a new en- Kosovo. news agency on March 30 that she thusiasm to start new victories. I think “didn’t recognize herself in any stories that the next four years will be the gold- on reconstruction or any disputes”. en age of Serbia,” he adds. Vesko GARCEVIC Prime Minister Brnabic had an- nounced on March 20 that she was 2017: BRNABIC f we [Serbia] are Russia's about to discuss new ministers with BECOMES PM, key partner in Europe, President Vucic, head of the Progres- VUCIC PRESIDENT they must have bigger sive Party. problems than we real- Brnabic said changes were needed The new government’s “golden age” ised," read a witty tweet Brnabic said changes were needed “because some members in office have too much vanity and are not good team players”. Photo: Beta “because some members in office have lasts for less than a year. After presi- by"I Aleksandar Marton, from Zrenjanin, too much vanity and are not good team 2013: RECONSTRUCTING The Progressives decide in January or media from spinning on this topic, dential elections on April 2, Vucic takes condensing the recent debate about players. THE TEAM to go for snap polls, a month after the however. over as . the conversation between Russian “They do too much self-promotion party wins an overwhelming majority On March 13, 2015, N1 television Ana Brnabic is made Prime Minister President Vladimir Putin and Serbian and push a personal agenda, rather On August 30, Serbia gets new ministe- in the local elections held in a several reports that Prime Minister Vucic is and announces changes in the govern- Prime Minister Aleksandar Vucic. than the government’s,” she said on rial team, one year and a month after the municipalities. mulling four scenarios – to change his ment. Whether Russia does have "prob- March 20, according to Beta news agen- first group took their oaths in parliament. Vucic says the government needs to partner party in the ruling coalition, to Commenting on Brnabic’s appoint- lems" or not, Moscow needs Belgrade cy. By then, the government, at the time “check the will of the people” and con- change only the Progressive officials in ment in July, Bojan Klacar from the as much as Serbia needs Russia right She did not specify which ministers led by Socialist leader Ivica Dacic, has firm the public’s support for the course government, to put someone else in his Center for Free Elections and Democ- now. Relations between the West and she was referring to, however, leaving already faced number of reports of it took. post – and not to change anything. racy, CESID, tells BIRN that the choice Russia are at the lowest since the end of the public to speculate who might be snap elections. However, as power balance in rul- “Vucic will not conduct the an- is expected and logical, as Brnabic is the cold war. After the March 4 poison- sacked and who might be promoted. These emerged in February 2013, ing coalition has shifted towards the nounced reshuffle of the government, someone with whom he can clearly ing in the UK of a former Russian dou- Interior Minister Nebojsa Stefanovic when the media published compromis- Progressives since the 2012 elections, which was expected by April 27,” Blic cooperate. ble agent and his daughter, with a nerve said that he was not afraid for his own ing leaked data documenting meetings many believe his party wants simply to writes on April 13. The report adds that, “Brnabic will not be dominant in po- agent created by Soviet-era scientists, position. between Dacic, the then head of his of- cash in its growing popularity. instead of the reshuffle, Serbia will have litical topics, so the heavy political is- the diplomatic crisis has resulted in the On the other hand, BIRN sources said fice, Branko Lazarevic, and Rodoljub Although the Socialists had less another early election, on December sues like Serbia-Kosovo relations and biggest coordinated expulsion of diplo- the Defence Minister, Aleksandar Vu- Radulovic, a member of the circle of the ministers than the Progressives, they 20. foreign affairs will still be in hands of mats from one country in history. Russian President Vladimir Putin shakes hands with Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic, Moscow, Russia, 2017. Photo: EPA-EFE/YURI KOCHETKOV / POOL lin, known for his strong pro-Russian suspected drugs baron, Darko Saric. obtained the PM’s post in 2012 because Reports are followed by almost daily Vucic,” Klacar explains. Governments of 28 states, including stance, might be at risk from pressures Although opposition MPs demanded it was up to them to decide whether to comments from politicians who are ei- Boban Stojanovic, from the Belgrade 19 EU states, have expelled around 200 Vucic presented following his chat A few days ago, the President of Bos- not veto it, even if it votes against it. In the decision not to follow EU decisions coming from Western countries. Dacic’s resignation, Vucic opted for a re- remain in power with old ruling Demo- ther strongly for or against the reshuffle Faculty of Political Sciences, agrees Russian diplomats, while Bulgaria and with President Putin. There is Belarus, nia's mainly Serbian entity, Republika this "win-win game", everyone seems on Moscow seems not only logical but Asked whether he saw himself as shuffle instead. cratic Party, or break them and tie the and elections. that Vucic will keep most of the real Luxembourg have recalled their am- though Minsk sometimes plays a role Srpska, Milorad Dodik, in Belgrade re- to get what they want: Serbia strength- the only possible course. Serbia may part of the new team, Vulin on March 21 The reshuffle came after the popular- knot with the Progressives, enabling In the event, Serbian citizens do not political power: “Her appointment will bassadors from Moscow. of a spoiler. vealed his dream to see the "Serbian ens its control over Northern Kosovo, want to keep its EU dream alive and re- said that was a decision for Vucic. ity of the Progressives increased, so the them to take power. vote again until 2016. bring international attention to Vucic, Once again, the states in the Balkan Russia has more important partners problem" finally resolved by the end which will enable its further integration main [if only when necessary] engaged Bojan Klacar, from the Centre for party now sought more influence. “We have done a lot of good things, but she doesn’t have any influence on region have ended up in a self-created in the EU. Serbia cannot compare to of this century. To him, that means the into Serbian proper; Kosovo obtains its in the Brussels process. Free Elections and Democracy, CeSid, The new cabinet contains one party we have built good foundations. I think 2016: MORE ELECTIONS the other ministers, so he will keep con- trap. Outwardly strong supporters of Germany, France or Italy. But nobody integration of Republika Srpska and long-sought dream; Russia confirms its From the Serbian perspective, where told BIRN that “certain pressures, wish- less than the previous one, as United we can go better and faster in the fu- trol.” the EU and of its common foreign and is as loyal as Belgrade. And the Moscow- Serb-run Northern Kosovo into Serbia, position, voting against the resolution, the term Serbian has a broader, over- es and expectations exist from both the Regions of Serbia and its head, Mladjan ture,” Vucic said. On April 24, 2016, the Progressives On June 29, parliament confirms security policy, deep down many of Belgrade hotline comes at the right mo- while the rights of in keeping its strong presence in the re- arching meaning, and refers to many East and the West, as there are certain Dinkic, loses its ministerial seat. Although the media again speculate again celebrate victory in early general Brnabic as Prime Minister. Defence them find it difficult to follow Brussels ment for both partners. Moscow now should be properly addressed, which gion via Belgrade. Serbs living in the region, nothing is ministers who declare themselves pub- The Progressives appoint four non- on who the new ministers might be, elections. Minister Zoran Djordjevic and Labour and side with the West at critical mo- has almost no states in Europe to call may include their integration into Ser- But the above calculation may equally possible without Russia. Hence, the licly or less publicly as supporters of party affiliated experts as ministers in on the day new government is inaugu- Earlier, on March 1, Vucic tells Serbia’s Minister Vulin switch posts. ments. and thank for being loyal and siding by bia, too. Dodik only says what others prove wrong, as this equation has one choice not to abide by the EU decisions various international factors. the so-called “experts government”. rated it is clear that only two ministers RTS public broadcaster that new elec- “It is about the most unexpected None has such difficulties as Serbia. them against the EU. Those EU countries think, or dream of – so when Dodik more unknown: the recent incident in regarding Moscow seems to be logical “This [East-West] aspect is gaining They were economy expert, Sasa have shifted positions. tions are necessary to “pave the way solution … since Vulin is known for his For the second time in recent years, it that did not expel Russian diplomats are "reveals his dreams", we may well ask Mitrovica involving the deportation of and only possible. weight because reconstruction will Radulovic, finance economy, Lazar Deputy Prime Minister Vucic be- for the country in the next four years, extreme verbal outbursts and conflicts has not backed EU decisions on Rus- either members of NATO or are not of ourselves whether those dreams come the head of Serbia's Kosovo office, in the From the Serbian European per- coincide with the intensification of the Krstic, head of the Philharmonic in Bel- comes Prime Minister and presents the and the key thing is that Serbia must be with ambassadors,” Radio Free Europe sia. Belgrade needs the EU for its Euro- much strategic importance. On the oth- from Belgrade, from Moscow, or both? eyes of Moscow and many in Belgrade, spective, a little is possible because of Kosovo problem,” he added. grade, Ivan Tasovac, and the water polo new government’s composition. Dacic united”. noted in June 2017. pean future – but it needs Moscow even er side, Moscow is Belgrade's only real But this seesaw game may take a only proves that the Brussels agreement Russia. However, Serbia wants to keep If a disbalance between different player, Vanja Udovicic. becomes head of the Interior Ministry. Opinion polls suggest an early vote Brnabic also names Nenad Popo- more. Absurd as it sounds, Belgrade supporter with the hot potato of Kosovo. completely different turn with a sur- is dead that and the EU is not able to its EU dream alive and remain (if only external influences is created after the Two of the experts, Radulovic and On his inauguration day, April 27, will only strengthen the ruling party’s vic, head of the Serbian People’s Party, even believes that playing the Russian Warmongering is often just a cover prising outcome, such as Kosovo ob- manage the Kosovo process. when necessary) engaged in Brussels reconstruction, he continued, it would Krstic, soon leave the cabinet. Radu- Vucic tells parliament that he has been grip. known for his pro-Russian views, as the card will make it able to squeeze more for back channel diplomacy. The sab- taining non-member observer status It's no secret that Russia wants this process. act as a pointer to Serbia’s future strate- lovic resigns in January 2014, Krstic in guided by the interests of citizens, not Florian Bieber, Professor of South- minister for technical innovation. concessions out of the EU. er-rattling on the Korean Peninsula in the UN. Yes, it is an alternative. An old issue addressed under UN auspices However, no matter how appealing gic orientation – “whether the EU's stra- July 2014. by the interests of his party, when de- east European Studies and director The Socialist Party gets another min- Sitting on two moving chairs sounds that will likely end up with diplomatic idea, reportedly revived by Berlin, this where it has a strong leverage and can the European perspective seems, the tegic goal and a stronger co-operation Tasovac is sacked later, in the reshuf- ciding ministerial posts. of the Centre for Southeast European isterial post, with Slavica Djukic De- almost impossible, but sitting on two talks at the most senior level between involves Kosovo finally forming an As- control the process itself. tilt toward Moscow at this moment with the United States remains, or a fle following the snap elections in 2016. "Serbia is more important than each Studies at the University of Graz, calls it janovic becoming minister for popula- chairs as they move away from each Pyongyang and Washington is a recent sociation of Serbian Municipalities in Viktor Koblanovski, director of the looks stronger. turning to Russia, and tension with Ko- Udovicic is still Sports Minister. of us and all political parties,” he says, “another unnecessary election”. tion policy. other is a miracle. Nevertheless, Bel- example of this. Kosovo, an obligation under Brussels Russian Balkan Centre for International sovo remains”. Vucic, then Deputy Prime Minister, Vecernje novosti quotes him as saying. “Calling early elections is in the tool- Media speculate that new members grade is convinced that no matter how Many in the see the same agreement, in return for winning UN Cooperation, wrote on March 30: "Ser- Vesko Garcevic is a former Montene- Klacar believes this question will be says: “These are people who are com- Vucic says the work of the ministers box of populist rulers with an authori- of Brnabic’s team may include the Pro- dubious this approach is, it should re- logic behind the current overheated membership. bia has good chances to shift from de- grin Ambassador to NATO, the OSCE solved by Vucic, not the Prime Minister, ing to try to change things,” Al Jazeera will be analysed every six months; tarian streak.” gressive officials who led the Serbian main the grand strategy. rhetoric between Belgrade and Pristina. This plan entails Serbia's consent fensive diplomatic tactics to an offen- and other international organisations. and that he will act cautiously. reports. those who are not successful in “con- On election night, Vucic tells journal- capital until the Belgrade March 4 elec- No other state in Europe is willing to Can we expect a detonation at any mo- and two-thirds support in the UN Gen- sive one. To that end, Serbia will need He is currently a professor at the Fred- “He will be careful at this moment ducting the reforms” will be replaced. ists that the victory of the Progressives tions – namely, Mayor Sinisa Mali, and give Moscow such unequivocal sup- ment – that will break Kosovo apart and eral Assembly. Allegedly, if Belgrade to stop cherishing illusions about 'Euro- erick S. Pardee School of Global Studies, with the reconstruction so as not to pro- 2014: EARLY means “strong support for democracy, city manager, Goran Vesic, as well as port, every time, under any circum- trigger a chain explosion in the region agrees, Germany will try to secure the pean integration' and use the resources Boston University. voke either the West or Russia,” he said. GENERAL ELECTION 2015: RARE YEAR reform and EU integration”. the first name on the party’s election stances, even following the Crimean that culminates in Bosnia? It is possi- necessary support before a regular UN of strategic parties and allies of Serbia, Since 2012, when the Progressive Par- WITHOUT CHANGE Together with early parliamentary list – Zoran Radojicic. annexation as well as in the current ble. Playing with fire remains a popular General Assembly meeting in Septem- first of all, Russia, China and other coun- The opinions expressed in the Com- ty took power, only one year has ended The new government lasts until elections, voters also cast ballots in the At the same time, there are reports diplomatic war. game in the region and many, including ber. tries that do not recognize Kosovo." ment section are those of the authors without elections or a government re- March 16, 2014, when citizens go to the No elections or reshuffles take place regular local elections and in elections that Brnabic herself is not safe in this Serbia is not Russia's sole key part- some political leaders, would love to Since the resolution is to be made by From the Serbian perspective, noth- only and do not necessarily reflect the shuffle – 2015. polls in early elections. this year, which does not stop officials for the northern province of Vojvodina. term. ner in Europe, as President Aleksandar again open the Balkan Pandora's box. the UN General Assembly, Russia can- ing is possible without Russia. Hence, views of BIRN. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 5 BELGRADE EASTER IN SERBIA

Airport to Host Night- time BLOG

Marathon enthusiasts who love aer- Open-Top oplanes as well should make sure to register for the first-ever marathon on the airport runway, Beograd na Pisti [Belgrade on the Runway]. Set Bus Sightseeing for June 3 at Belgrade’s Orthodox airport, this nocturnal five-kilometre run, nicknamed BEG5Krunway, is organised by Belgrade Marathon, in brief Belgrade Tours Kick Off whose main sporting event is the st Easter Amid 31 Belgrade Marathon on April 21. “Belgrade on the Runway is perhaps Spring sees the Ticket prices range from 400 dinars the most demanding event we are [just over €3] for children aged up to organizing; because Nikola Tesla Airport has only one flight-landing return of the much- 12 to 600 dinars [around €5] for adults, Serbia’s runway, we have to hold the race and can be bought at the Tourist Or- at night, when there are no flights,“ loved tours across ganisation of Belgrade office at Knez Dejan Nikolic, of the Belgrade the capital, giving Mihailova 5, at the BS Tours office at Marathon, explained. The number Savski Trg 1a, or on the bus right before of participants is limited to 800, and the tour. The minimum number of pas- Shifting the application process lasts from you a chance April 25 to May 5. sengers per tour is 15. to experience Apart from discovering Belgrade by Another Easter Belgrade from a new open-top bus, there is another interest- Carnival in the Park ing tour on offer this season, ”Belgrade, Political perspective. Your Host - The Best Way to Discover The city’s Tasmajdan Park will and Experience Belgrade from the Riv- again host a big Easter carnival on Saturday and Sunday, April 7-8. ers”. Ivana NIKOLIC The tour, which is expected to start Tides For the second time in a row, the carnival will last all day and will be operating by the end of April, includes completely free. During the two-day nder the slogan “Belgrade, Your sightseeing from both an open-top bus event, visitors may enjoy numer- Host” (Beograd Vas Domacin), and a boat, and will take place every Easter has been about dying eggs ous music and dancing shows as 10th jubilee open-top bus tours Friday and Saturday. well as carnival troupes, street U showmen, percussionists, clowns, officially kicked off on April 4 and will Departures will be from Nikola Pasic for as long as I can remember, but mummers and many others. The run until the end of summer. Square at 5pm, when visitors will set off youngest visitors will be able to par- Panoramic sightseeing tours take in by bus along the aforementioned route. in my family – as well as in many ticipate in various workshops, watch places such as the Old Palace, St. Mark’s After that, they will board the boat, Ste- films at an outdoor cinema or ride Church, the National Theatre, Usce vanske Livade, near the Gabijano Splav horses. There will also be competi- other Serbian families – the holiday tions for the best painted egg and Shopping Mall and Park of Friendship, at Zemunski Kej. Illustration. Photo: Flickr/Pawel Loj the best decorated Easter basket. among others. The bus departs every These tours are guided both in Ser- has been influenced by changing day at 11am and 1.30pm from Nikola Pa- bian and English. Tickets cost 1,200 More Free Bicycles sic Square. dinars [around €10] for adults and 600 ideologies and regimes. for Belgraders One tour lasts 70 minutes, during dinars [around €5] for children aged up which visitors can use an audio guide to 12. They can be bought at the same and will be closed on Easter Sun- day. Some larger market chains Belgrade City Manager Goran in Serbian, Russian, English, French, locations as those for the open-top bus Ivana NIKOLIC “Religion was a taboo, and religious TRADITIONAL HOW IT ALL BEGAN Vesic says this spring and summer The Old Palace. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/NMedjedov will begin working according to season Belgraders will be provided German, Turkish, Greek or Italian. tours. holidays were working days,” my moth- SERBIAN EGG DYING The Easter celebration among their regular schedule on Monday, with 450 bicycles to use free of unday, April 8, will be the er told me, adding that a lot of families Slavs is believed to have roots in April 9, but smaller grocery stores charge. Renting bikes is possible very first Easter for my were celebrating it silently. It wasn’t A week before Easter you can find pagan times. The awakening of and shops will remain shut until at parking lots in the capital: Ada made their mark on the international Veljko Kockar and his World War II-era 10-month-old son Sergej. something you would really brag about. different egg colourings on every spring was considered a holy time Tuesday, April 10. of the year for the pre-Christian Ciganlija, Milan Gale Muskatirovic, film festival circuit. cartoon. The main character is Alek- Neither my husband “I remember my mother was dying a corner - in shops and markets. Sava Centar and Obilicev Venac. You can even see people selling tribes that had migrated to the Nearly all pharmacies will be Bicycles can be used from 9am Belgrade’s “Beldocs wants to highlight the rise sandar Zograf, Serbia’s renewed car- nor I is truly religious, but few eggs in lukovina [onion-dyed eggs], small colouring packages on the Balkan peninsula. closed on Sunday, but several to 9pm every day. Vesic promised of Serbian documentaries that are in toonist, who discovers the cartoon and we’ve decided to follow and the colour red was very hard to streets. on-duty chemists will be open that another 250 parking places competition for awards at this year’s decides to explore the life of its creator. someS of the traditions, so Sergej will be find,” she said. According to myths, the Slavs all day. The on-call pharmacies Beloved traditionally marked the start that will be on Easter Sunday for bicycles will be ready for use festival,” the organisers said in a press Beldocs will host more than 100 film watching us, dying and decorating eggs The colour red plays an important There is one old and natural way of spring in places of natural are located at Nemanjina 2 and soon. “This will be our additional release. industry members and present over 85 – and possibly trying to smash as much role during the Easter celebrations in of colouring eggs that is still contribution to the development of widely used in Serbia – Luko- beauty, including mountain tops, Kralja Milana 9 in central Bel- Documentary “For all the years of its existence, Bel- films from around the world during the as he can fetch. Orthodoxy. Tradition has it that the grade, Goce Delceva 30 in Novi bicycle traffic in the city,” the City vina, or onion-dyed eggs. What meadows, and thick forests. Each Manager said on March 31. Ac- docs has made a concerted effort to week-long event. The festival will feature My family has also never been reli- first set of eggs should be dyed red, and you need is a lot of onion skin, new agricultural season was Beograd, Glavna 34 in Zemun, cording to official data, there were Film Fest improve the quality of domestic docu- a screening of controversial US filmmak- gious. I can’t really remember my par- your first red egg is called the ‘house- eggs, a spoonful of vinegar and celebrated as a triumph of good and Dr Djordja Kovacevica 27 in Lazarevac. around 10,000 bicycle users in the mentary films… and to bring domestic er Abel Ferrara’s latest work, “Piazza Vit- ents ever going to church or praying to keeper’ as it is supposed to guard the a teaspoon of salt. Depending over evil. on the decoration you want, you city in 2016, which grew to 25,000 documentaries closer to international torio”. Ferrara is known for his provoca- God, but we’ve always respected tradi- home until the next Easter. That’s why in 2017. could use wax, flowers or onion After they converted to Christian- The city’s shopping malls will Returns th standards. These (two) films are just tive and often controversial material. tions and celebrated Christmas, Easter, it is not uncommon to see a red egg skin itself. ity in the 9 century, the Slavs also work shorter hours on Good ’s Magnifico one example of that effort and work.” A film by Austrian director Ruth and our slava (a family’s patron saint). somewhere in a Serbian house long started celebrating Easter as a Friday (until 6pm). They will also International Documentary Film Festival, Boris Mitic’s “Slatko od Nista” (In Beckermann, whose “Waldheims Walz- My mom would say that God has lit- after Easter has passed. (I also do have You prepare the dye by putting victory of the divine nature of be closed on Easter Sunday but comes to Town will return to their regular working Beldocs, returns next month to bring the works Praise of Nothing) is a satirical parable er” received the main Documentary tle to do with tradition. “You either be- my own ‘housekeeper’ in the living the onion skin in the bottom of Christ over the mortal nature of a pot and placing the eggs on Jesus as a human being. hours on Monday. Robert Pesut Magnifico, a popular in which ‘Nothing’, tired of our misun- Award at this year’s Berlin International lieve or you don’t in God, but traditions room – it is in a small porcelain-egg box singer of Slovene and Serbian of internationally established documentary top of the skins. You then pour in derstanding, is running away from Film Festival, will also be featured. you respect,” she argues. I got from my mother). water and add vinegar and salt. After decades under atheist No fees will be charged if you park origin, will be playing at Belgrade’s filmmakers to the Serbian capital’s film-crazed home and coming to address us for the The festival venues include the Sava The fact that my son is about to cel- Back in my grandmother’s time, in Communist rule, Serbian Easter your car on Belgrade’s streets, Belexpocentar on April 15. During After the water boils, turn the first and last time. Mitic’s previous four Centar, Belgrade Youth Centre, Jugo- ebrate his first Easter – or Uskrs in Ser- what was then the Kingdom of Yugo- temperature down and leave it to traditions have not changed, as the city’s parking service will his career, Magnifico has combined audiences. be closed from 9pm on Thurs- films were shown at more than 200 slav Film Archives, Fontana Cinema, bian – made me think about how our slavia, Easter – as well as all the other boil for another 15 minutes. making this one of the rare reli- disco, Balkan, funk and electronic gious holidays that have not been day, April 5, to Tuesday, April 10. sounds. He has released 11 albums Ivana NIKOLIC Belgrade on May 7 at the Sava Centar’s film festivals worldwide, earning him the Museum of Contemporary Art, the stance on religion and religious holi- religious holidays – were widely and altered by ideology. Public garages and car parks will, and has also done the music for The eggs will eventually turn a Grand Hall. 25 awards. Trade Union Hall and Belgrade Cultural days have changed so much since the publicly celebrated. nice caramel colour. however, continue to operate ac- several Serbian films, making him he 11th International Documen- Known by its popular moniker, Bel- Serbia’s other entry, “Poslednja Centre. middle of the last century in Serbia, “I still remember it vividly,” my cording to their normal schedule very popular in the country. Tickets tary Film Festival, which pro- docs, the event kicks off with two docu- Avantura Kaktus Bate,” (The Last Ad- Beldocs lasts until May 14. For more and I have begun to wonder how those 77-year-old grandmother told me. If you want to have some kind of and charge regular rates during for the show range from 1,190- EASTER WEEKEND the holiday weekend. 1,790 dinars [around €10-€15] via motes cutting-edge filmmakers mentaries from a pair of highly regard- venture of Cactus Bata) by Djordje information and a detailed programme political changes affected my family’s “We, children, looked forward to East- pattern on your onion-dyed eggs, T there are different options. You Eventim and GigsTix. from around the world, will open in ed Serbian directors who have already Markovic is a story about the artist visit www.beldocs.rs. ‘treatment’ of Easter. er. But we were hungry, too, and Easter could use ordinary wax to draw WORKING HOURS Petrol stations located on high- My parents’ indifference towards reli- meant that on that day we will have different designs on the eggs ways and roads, as well as those gion came from the fact that they were more than a decent family lunch,” she before boiling them. For visitors who plan to be in Bel- located in the city, will be open 24 grade over the Easter weekend, both born and raised in Tito’s Yugosla- recalls. hours, while others will work a re- it is important to be aware of the duced schedule from 6am-8pm Find your copy of via, where Communism and religion “On Good Friday we would dye eggs For a floral pattern, find a flower ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR whose shape you like, put it care- reduced working hours for mar- over the course of the holiday. Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] simply didn’t go well together. Once and eat only beans, nothing more than fully on the eggs, and wrap the kets, pharmacies, gas stations, the Communists came to power after beans. And then on Saturday, our moth- flower and egg with nylon tights and shopping malls. Belgrade markets will work WWII ended, religion was no longer ers would cook lunch for Easter. It was before boiling it. The shape of the Belgrade Insight has prepared normally on Friday and Satur- a guide for this year’s Easter publically acceptable, but instead re- nice and modest food,” grandma said. flower will stay on the egg. day, April 6-7, from 6am to 7pm. MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL celebrations, which will begin on They will all be closed on Easter Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 YUBC Bulevar Mihajla mained a part of people’s private lives. But her favourite day was Vrbica, or Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija 5 BELGRADE Address: You can also decorate the eggs Friday, April 6, and continue to Sunday, apart from these three: Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temisvarska 19 Pupina 10v According to Communist ideology, Lazarus Saturday when children from with marbled patterns. To achieve Monday, April 9. Zemun, Banovo Brdo, Bele Vode, HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A religion was fake and so were its holi- her tiny village would go in front of the this, you need to cover the egg Dusanovac and Gornja Varos, Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA days, including Christmas and Easter. local church to celebrate the holiday. with onion skin and wrap it in ny- From April 6 to April 7, most which will work from 6am to 1pm. supermarkets and grocery stores SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 A more valid explanation, however, There was a huge water tank in the lon tights or aluminium foil before On Monday, April 9, all markets will have shorter working hours will be open 6am-1pm. HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 would be that it was too risky for the churchyard which each child would putting it in water to boil. Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac SERBIA newly-installed Yugoslav leadership to approach to get a willow’s rod from a Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 RADISSON BLU OLD allow differences to flourish in a huge priest and be doused with holy water CAFE SNEZANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE country that consisted of various eth- from the tank. NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 nic and religious groups. “All in all, it was different than during some have linked to the resurgence of neighbourhood would go outside on going to church for Easter mass or my FOR DANCE Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade The fact that the new regime became Communism,” she said. nationalism in and the role Easter day with coloured eggs in their parents fasting weeks before Easter. We Address: Kolarceva 3 KOLARAC increasingly hostile towards religion af- Things changed almost completely Serbian Orthodox clerics had in pro- hands, holding egg smashing competi- all would fast, only on Good Friday. BISTRO BAR Address: Studentski trg 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarceva 7 fected many, which is why they either by the end of the 1980s. moting it. tions. The streets would be full of egg- I have asked myself what Easter will Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Aerodrom pult stopped celebrating religious holidays After Communism fell, the new gov- By the time I was born in 1991, East- shells. mean for my boy once he’s old enough HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 or were doing so silently. It’s not to say ernment restored religious celebra- er was slowly but steadily, publicly For my brother and me, Easter was to think about it. Will it be more than Address: Kneza Milosa 5 SKVER 44 FLY FLY TRAVEL that Communists banned religion – tions. Religion once again became a celebrated all over the country. I re- only about the smashing tournaments just a mere tradition? Address: Pozeska 44a Address: Knez Mihailova 4 they just did everything to put it aside. major player in Serbian society, which member how all the children from my and egg decoration. I don’t remember I will wait and see. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS

COMMENT Serbian PM Sets Financial Serbia Tractor Factory Hopes High In the first three months of 2018 Serbia achieved a budget surplus of 6.5 billion Serbia Should Make the dinars [€54.5 million], Prime Gets New Indian Owner Minister Ana Brnabic told the media on April 2. Good Business in brief in brief Business economic indicators give mer Yugoslavia, when it was one of the reasons for optimism for the Best of Life at Bottom After years of country’s top exporters. It lost its markets rest of the year, according following the outbreak of war in the early to the prime minister. “The bankruptcy and 1990s. first quarter is quite good, and GDP has risen by 3.9 per In its heyday, IMT Beograd was produc- cent,“ Brnabic said, adding uncertainty, Ser- ing around 400,000 tractors annually that the government hopes and employing more than 10,000 people. that overall GDP for 2018 will bia’s once mighty IMT and TAFE have cooperated since rise by 3.5 per cent. the 1950s, when IMT sold a tractor pro- tractor producer duction licence to the Indian company. Serbia to Pour Agriculture Minister Branislav Nedi- Millions into Innovations Sector IMT has been movic told Serbia’s public broadcaster RTS on April 3 that the company has Nenad Popovic, Serbia's promised to hire around 800 workers minister without portfolio sold to India’s and produce 5,000 tractors annually. in charge of innovation and The new factory will keep part of its old technological development, TAFE. name, becoming MIT TAFE. announced on April 2 that TAFE is the third-largest tractor manu- the government will further facturer in the world and the second larg- support the technological innovation field with 400 est in India, selling more than 150,000 million dinars [€3.36 million]. ndia’s TAFE bought Industry of Ma- tractors annually, at home and interna- The two new programmes chinery and Tractors, IMT Beograd, tionally. are intended to provide on April 2 for around 66 million di- It is a part of the Amalgamations Group, direct financial help to small nars [around €554,000], the Serbian which also owns 44 other companies and and medium-sized enter- I prises dealing with innova- government said. has an annual turnover of $2.5 billion. The tender for the IMT was first Kamal Ahuja, TAFE manager for Eu- tive services, processes and launched in 2007. The company went rope, said tractors will be produced in products. “The extent to which these are significant is into bankruptcy in 2015. Serbia and first sold in markets across the shown by the enterprises that Despite several offers over the years, South-Eastern Europe, which will be fol- were financed in the previous including one from Switzerland’s Home lowed by other markets across the world. period. Today they employ Art & Sales Services AG and Slovenia’s SIP “Our intention is to have more than 50 more than 480 workers ... Strojna industrija in 2008, IMT was only per cent of tractor components produced and their revenues increased sold on April 2. in Serbia, which will open up those mar- by more than 160 per cent, Serbian Prime Minister Ana Brnabic kets with which Serbia has free trade while their exports are now nine times higher,“ Popovic said on April 3 that she hopes to see the agreements,” Ahuja said in Belgrade on said. The window for applica- first IMT tractor produced very soon. April 3. tions is open until June 1. “I would like to see the IMT tractor at The first tractors will be produced in a the International Agricultural Fair in Novi year, Ahuja said, adding that in the first German Car Giant Sad in May,” she said. five years a total of 5,000 tractors will be Mulls Coming to “I hope that now, as a result of this, the made. Serbia production of tractors will restart in Ser- The new plant will be relocated from bia, not only for the whole region but also its current location in Novi Beograd, as it According to several Serbian media outlets, German car wider than that,” Brnabic said. is no longer suitable for heavy industry, manufacturing company IMT was a major producer of tractors he noted. The new location is yet to be Vorwerk Autotec is consider- and agricultural machinery in the for- made public. A Serbian farmer on an IMT tractor. Photo: Beta ing opening a factory for the production of pipes and seals Being a millennial in Serbia resembles being a kid, standing in front of a window of a candy shop. Photo: Pixabay for the automotive industry, as well as a testing centre, live to the point of convergence, which capita. The end of this good period, After liberalisation in the 2000s, play catch-up, when they can relatively in the western city of Cacak. Reflektor, a local news portal Serbia has would happen in 2220. buoyed on large debts, was painful, there was relatively strong growth in easily get on the global talent market. in the city, reports that the A sobering moment as it, it is the one as Socialist Yugoslavia was brought the lead-up to the financial crisis. The Short of conjuring an unprecedent- Serbia local authorities received always been that connects me with all of my ances- to near-bankruptcy by rising interest crisis hit Serbia hard in 2009 and con- ed economic boom, even the best of a letter of intent from the tors who lived here. While the EBRD rates. tinued until 2016, ushering a period governments can probably do little German company on March at the bottom rightly points its finger towards bad The situation in Serbia was not of austerity, which has translated into to make a case for staying in Serbia in 9. The letter stated, among Resumes other things, that the factory institutions and lack of infrastructural helped by the adverse affects of two wage and pension cuts and freezes and terms of the standard of living. of Europe in investment, one of the main reasons, world wars. Some 62 per cent of Ser- underinvestment in infrastructure. Nevertheless, the government could will occupy around 65,000 if not the main one, is that Serbia was bia's working age male population and Even between 2000 and 2009 when still do some things to motivate the mil- square metres and employ approximately 1,000 workers. economic terms always quite close to the bottom of Eu- about one third of its total population GDP was growing strongly at about 5 lennials to pull their weight and tie their Duty-Free rope, in terms of wealth, and then also died or was killed in World War I, when per cent a year, the benefits were not fortune to their country. Europe’s Digital – but it could still had to contend with disastrous wars most of the little industry it had was evenly spread. Unemployment re- Serbia's first post-Ottoman rulers sold Clocks Back to that set it back further. also destroyed. mained high and income inequality the country to their people and, even Exports Normal Roads and plants can be built, trade In World War II, Yugoslavia not only was rising, dividing Serbian society into some foreigners, as a land of opportu- do more to keep liberalised and even institutions lost more than a million people but the impoverished former industrial work- nity, a sort of New World within Europe. Europe’s digital clock system strengthened. However, although his- society was radically changed, too. The ers and state employees, and a small They even attracted talent from much is functioning properly again its restless young to US after an energy dispute tory cannot be changed, it is important assets of the pre-war bourgeoisie were proportion of "transition winners" who wealthier cities, like Paris, Vienna and been Serbia and Kosovo to appreciate the long, painful slog of seized, many of them emigrated, and navigated their way to the top of the Berlin, allowing them to use their ex- caused clocks to be delayed in the country. Serbian economy in the past century there were major ethnic changes: about new economic order. Even with all the pertise to help lift up the country and by up to six minutes since and a half. 80 per cent of Serbia's Jewish popula- growth in the past two decades, Serbia's relying on their altruism and creativity. Serbian businesses exporting mid-January, Claire Camus An insightful analysis into Serbia's tion perished in the Holocaust, while living standard and GDP are still below Similar motives are attracting a steady from the European Network economic history, done by Nedeljnik, many of the survivors moved to Israel. the level in 1989, the year before the trickle of entrepreneurs back to Serbia, services and goods to the US will of Transmission System Srdjan GARCEVIC a Belgrade weekly in October 2016, Finally, the breakup of Yugoslavia breakup of Yugoslavia started. although much more could be done. The Operators for Electricity, shows that Serbia never really caught wrought havoc on the Serbian econ- While Serbia's position on Europe's current sclerotic state of Serbia's institu- soon be able to do so free of customs, ENTSOE, said. “The operators of the ENTSOE have agreed or every Serb, there is a up from the days when it was part of omy, which was still reeling from the economic bottom has been a fixture tions, from the public sector to the arts, or paying a minimal amount. and undertaken a program point when they under- the largely agricultural and economi- debt crisis of the 1980s. for generations, it is probably more could do with some fresh, smart blood by which the frequency of stand that Serbia will never cally dysfunctional Ottoman Empire, in The restrictive sanctions imposed depressing for the current youngsters and, even if Serbia is not offering the compensation is done by reach the standard of living the early 19th Century. Although Serbia's on Serbia in 1992, which were only fully who are expected to work on making most pay, it could at least offer people the s of April 22, Serbia will be able In terms of Serbia, duty-free exports keeping the frequency above of the "West" within their rulers from then on worked hard to at- lifted in 2000, the hyperinflation of the country prosper. opportunity to make the most impact. to export around 5,000 prod- pertain to over 4,900 products. The the normal (by introducing Flifetime. tract foreign capital and expertise and 1993 and finally the bombing in 1999, While the standard of living of mil- Last but definitely not least, they Aucts free from US customs du- majority of them are industrial and ag- more energy than needed in For me, just shy of 30, that moment implemented a capitalist system of de- literally more than halved the Serbian lennials is significantly better than that could make sure they avoid any more of ties, and this privileged status will be ricultural products. the system) to cover the time deviation,” Camus said on came when I read the latest EBRD re- velopment, the most remarkable spurt economy. Considering that the 1990s of their grandparents (although proba- the catastrophic wars that always kept valid until the end of 2020, the Serbian The last GSP approved by the US April 3, adding that the clocks port about the West Balkans, published of growth in Serbian history happened were a highly transformative decade bly not their parents) comparisons with the country at the bottom of the pile. Chamber of Commerce said on April 3. Congress expired on December 31, had returned to normal as last February, which foresees a conver- during the Socialist era in the 1960s and in the world economy due to the IT Serbia's more developed neighbours The permission comes after the US 2017, so Serbian companies export- Vladimir Filipovic from Serbia’s Custom Administration. Photo: Beta of the day prior. In March, gence of standard of living with the EU 1970s. revolution, globalisation and post-cold are only a few clicks away, and leav- Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a Congress extended the validity of the ing to the US had to pay custom duties the ENTSOE announced that average in 60 years. Still, as Nedeljnik's research shows, war peace in the rest of the world, the ing the country for greener pastures is founder of The Nutshell Times blog. Generalized System of Preferences, since then. goods exported from January 1 and “Goods intended for export must be they were experiencing "a An optimistic scenario foresees that even at its heyday in 1979, Serbia's gap between Serbia and the world ex- easier than it was. GSP. There are 122 countries on the US However, the new decision enables April 22. fully produced in Serbia with at least 35 continuous system frequency this will happen when I turn 65, in 2053. economy lagged behind those of more panded significantly: in 2000, Serbia's The continued emigration of the The opinions expressed in the Com- preferential trade list, including Serbia, retroactivity, so Serbian businesses Vladimir Filipovic, from Serbia’s Custom per cent VAT and should be shipped di- deviation from its mean value The pessimistic scenario, using low established countries such as Germany economy lagged 63 years behind Ger- young, especially of the most talented, ment section are those of the authors that can export to the US free of cus- can ask the US Customs Service and Administration, said that for a company to rectly from Serbia,” Filipovic said. of 50 Hz" since the middle of January, and pinpointed that post-crisis growth rates, means that not and France by about two decades, es- many's. Earlier, in 1990, the gap was a shows that many Serbians are unwilling only and do not necessarily re ect the toms duties or by paying only a mini- Border Protection for repayment of export to the US under this regime, the cri- He added that the value of Serbian US it was coming from Serbia even my potential grandchildren will timated using price adjusted GDP per more manageable 35 years. to spend their lives helping the country views of BIRN. mal amount. the difference in the amount for all terion of origin has to be fulfilled first. exports was around 258 million dollars. and Kosovo. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 9 REGION FACES Albania’s Katarina Subasic, Measles a Journalist Running Epidemic Blamed on for her Life "Then it became real, you got accept- The illustrious ed for a marathon; a lot of people fail to get in, so I was lucky. It was not just a Vaccination journalist ex- wish anymore, it was a real plan," she plains how she continues. Since the Berlin marathon, Subasic got bitten by the has completed two more , in Failures Oslo and New York City. "New York was marathon bug at the top of the top… for years after that marathon, that will be the thing that According to the World Health Or- almost 50 – and gets me up in the morning," she recalls. A spike in measles ganisation, WHO, measles cases in Eu- For her next marathon, Subasic plans rope quadrupled during 2017 to 21,000, never looked on traveling to Portugal to join the Lis- in the country, an about 35 of whom have died. bon marathon. "Every new person affected by mea- back. With the 31st Belgrade marathon infectious disease sles in Europe reminds us that unvac- looming on April 21, Subasic admits cinated children and adults, regardless that, despite catching the marathon that has returned of where they live, remain at risk of bug, she has never participated in the catching the disease and spreading it to Alexis TRAUSSI one in Belgrade, but has run the half- for the first time others who may not be able to get vac- marathon four times. cinated. t was not me finding jour- She explains that the race in Belgrade in a decade, is "Over 20,000 cases of measles, and nalism as a career, it was is especially difficult: "The race ends on 35 lives lost in 2017 alone, are a tragedy journalism that found me Branko's bridge and then Branko's street, being blamed we simply cannot accept," Dr Zsuzsan- in high school," Katarina so you are going uphill for quite a while. na Jakab, WHO Regional Director for Subasic explains at her And then you come to Kneza Milosa, on a decline Europe, said in a press release. desk,"I facing three computers open to a and there is one 20-metre stretch that is The last outbreak in Albania was reg- variety of screens related to her work. really uphill and you are already tired." in children’s istered in 2006-7, when 68 cases were Since she was 16, Subasic, now 52, has This year is the 31st year of the race, found, according to research published had an illustrious career as a journalist. which restarted in 1988 when a group vaccinations. in International Journal of Science and She started on the streets, report- of enthusiasts decided to revive it after Research, compared to 352 cases now. ing on prices at the Kalenic market a 78-year hiatus. Since then, not one Kimete Tusha's eight-month-old son in Belgrade's Vracar neighbourhood, year has been missed, not even 1999, of is one of those awaiting treatment. and worked her way up to serious po- during the bombing campaign, which Hailing from Balldren, a village near litical journalism during the wars of the Subasic was reporting on. Lindita CELA Lezha in northern Albania, Kimetja is 1990s. "I like is that it is my city and … that taking care of her son in the Paediatric "I covered pretty much everything there are plenty of friends and relatives wo infants, aged four and Pavilion of the Mother Theresa Hospi- you could imagine was happening in who come out and are strategically eight months, have lost tal. Three more children are in the same former Yugoslavia in the 1990s, so [Slo- in front of their houses, so you know their lives in the latest out- room. bodan] Milosevic's rise to power, his where you can meet them." break of measles in Alba- "I do not know if my son is infected rule, the protests against him, political However, she believes the organi- nia, a disease long forgot- with measles. He was hospitalized two negotiations, the wars in Bosnia, Koso- sation of the marathon could be im- Tten that reappeared in the country last days ago but no analysis has been con- vo and Croatia," she recalls. proved, by changing the date and mov- January. ducted. They say we have to wait be- ing it to a Sunday, which would draw Measles had not been present in the cause there are no materials available," more visitors. country since a massive vaccination she added. "Runners will run wherever, and of campaign was conducted a decade ago Doctors told BIRN that it has been course most runners will run when – until January, when a four-month-old two weeks since analysis to identify the weather will be best for them, and baby died of it in the Mother Theresa whether children have been infected 20-something degrees is not good Hospital in Tirana. weather for running," she says. Albania's Public Health Institute now I decided after "It has a lot to do with the running cul- says some 352 children have been iden- ture here," she goes on to say. When she tified as infected and cases are being my third half- began her morning runs, which moved registered in almost every part of the to the path next to the Danube, no one country. marathon that was there. About ten new cases are being reg- About 22,000 vaccinations were conducted during the last few months outside of normal procedures. Photo: Tudor Vintiloiu Now she sees "quite a few people. In the autumn of 2012, Subasic picked up her own sneakers and drove to Photo: Courtesy of Katarina Subasic istered every day, while this week, 60 If the Health Kosutnjak, a park in Belgrade, and her running career took off. Now there are also plenty of those run- children were hospitalized in Mother by measles was halted due to lack of mission rate compared to other infec- number have moved within the coun- before I was ning clubs in the city, so I think this will Theresa Hospital, the country biggest Ministry has not laboratory materials. tious disease; a single case can cause 10 try, usually from the countryside to the When NATO started bombing Serbia have surgery when I was 21. So I never sudden a window opened and I took a contribute to an improvement in the healthcare facility. They say that they have to rely on to 20 more infections. main cities. 50, I wanted to in 1999, Subasic was spending a semes- ran; I used to go skiing, I was in a few breath of fresh air," she recalls. races around the city," she says. Medics told BIRN that the situation is declared that we symptoms to decide whether to hospi- "Isolation of patients either in their "Such movements might have made ter at NYU through an international other sports, I was going to the gym "I loved it from the very beginning," New races continue to pop up along basically a measles epidemic and some talize patients while awaiting the analy- homes or in hospital is the best way to difficult for parents to strictly follow the run my first full programme, Journalists in Residence. since I was in my early thirties or some- she exclaims. She was so elated after side the Belgrade marathon; including accuse the Health Ministry of wrongly are in a measles sis results or not. fight it," he said. vaccination scheme of their children," She had to cut it short because her fam- thing," she explains. her first run that when she got home, the half-marathon race that was held refusing to declare it an epidemic. However, the Health Institute claims While the Ministry of Health dis- Kalo said. marathon. I was ily and children were still in Belgrade Everything changed when her first she was already excited for her next last December, but Subasic couldn't "If the Health Ministry has not de- epidemic, it that the materials for examinations are misses allegations about unprepared- Authorities are struggling to identify at the time. She later joined Agence daughter moved away to the US to at- one. make that one. clared that we are in a measles epidem- available. "We do all the tests to identify ness for such situations, experts say unvaccinated children. About 22,000 then 48. So that France-Presse, AFP, until the end of the tend college. That fateful first run has led to six This year, she plans on running the ic, it is avoiding accepting institutional is avoiding the virus here," the Institute said in a the rapid spike in cases shows lack of vaccinations were conducted during war. "It was really hard. For months, I just years of full and half-marathon running five kilometres of the Belgrade mara- responsibility," Dr Pellumb Pipero, written answer. adequate measures against infectious the last few months outside of normal autumn I applied "But then I simply stayed, and I love didn't know what to do and how to all over the world. thon. Each time she participates in the an infectious diseases specialist, told accepting The infectious disease pavilion in diseases in the country. procedures. being here and working here," she calm down, so one day I started follow- Subasic was unable to run long races marathon weekend she runs for the BIRN. the hospital's paediatric section is al- "Unhelpfully, we don't have studies to This is not the only problem, how- in the lottery notes. ing a blog about a woman from Novi in 2013 due to multiple injuries, but, BELhospice, which cares for patients However, the Public Health Institute institutional ready full, meanwhile, and doctors are know the level of immunisation of the ever. Like other countries, fears have In the 1990s, she also joined the Sad who was my age and was writing in April 2014, she participated in her with advanced cancer, offering spe- and Ministry of Health says the cases obliged to use also other wards. population and due to that, we cannot grown in Albania that the measles vac- for the Berlin Committee to Protect Journalists, CPJ, about running outside – how nice it was first half-marathon in Vienna, and two cialised services for them and for their are merely "problematic" and the situa- responsibility. Doctors told BIRN they were unable build protective policies," Dr Pipero said. cine might cause autism in their chil- which assisted journalists who were and how it helped her calm down and weeks later finished the same race in families. On occasions, Subasic was tion remains "under control". to properly follow the protocol and to "Lack of information and low levels dren. marathon … and being arrested by the authorities in that it was more than just running, it is Belgrade. their top fundraiser. Doctors say measles reappeared isolate children with measles due to the of vaccination brought measles back to Kimete Tusha says she did not vac- Serbia during the bombing campaign. like therapy." In October, after completing her Despite having almost 12 half-mara- in Albania along with other countries overcrowding. Albania. These are not sporadic cases, cinate her son because she had heard got in on the first "It was another invaluable experience," In the autumn of 2012, Subasic third half-marathon, she came to an- thons and three marathons under her in the region after some parents ne- "We have put children with measles this is an epidemic," he added. that vaccination poses a risk. she says, quietly. picked up her own sneakers and, with other, life changing conclusion. "I de- belt, Subasic still gets excited for which- glected or refused to vaccinate their only near vaccinated children because Kalo explained also that the high Dr Kalo says numerous studies have attempt. With such an impressive career, you the support of her husband, drove to cided after my third half-marathon that ever run she has ahead. children due to religious beliefs and then there is no risk of further infec- level of demographic movement might shown that this fear is baseless. "But might think she has no time for much Kosutnjak, a park in Belgrade, and her before I was 50, I wanted to run my first "I still feel butterflies the night before fears, but also, some allege, because of tion," one doctor said without provid- also have contributed to the low levels there are cases when usually non- else, but, aged 46, Subasic started on a running career took off. full marathon. I was then 48. So that my run in the morning," she says, "but inadequate facilities to isolate patients Dr Pellumb Pipero, ing his name. of vaccinations. neglectful parents have hesitated, and new path: running. Over that run of just over three kilo- autumn I applied in the lottery for the I don't mind getting up to go out to run and inadequate vaccination outreach an infectious diseases Dr Trital Kalo, an experienced medic, About a third of the country's popu- continue to hesitate, to vaccinate their "I never ran in my life because as a metres, she "immediately felt like I'd Berlin marathon … and got in on the first regardless of the amount of sleep I had. initiatives. specialist explains that measles has a high trans- lation has emigrated while a similar children," he concluded. kid I had a spine problem and I had to been in in a smoky room and all of a attempt. I have never regretted a run, so, I love it." 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT HEALTH AND FAMILY Spring Breaks From the City with Kids

From ethno villages to luxurious spas, Serbia has plenty to offer families seeking a weekend out of the town.

Ivana NIKOLIC

fter a long, cold winter, The World Egg Tapping Championship takes place on Orthodox Easter Sunday for the 28th time this year. Photo: Beta you are surely happy that you can finally en- joy some nice weather outdoors with your chil- dren.A In Belgrade, there are plenty of parks to head to, while you can also vis- it nearby Mt Avala, which is only 23km from the capital. But if you are bored with the city and everything it offers, try escaping it for a weekend. There are lots of nice places to visit in Serbia; it all depends on what you and your family are fond of most. Belgrade Insight has prepared a list of interesting places you might consider visiting. From ethno villages to spa cen- tres with kids' corners, there is some- thing for everyone seeking an active weekend – in educational terms.

ETHNO VILLAGES

If you want a relaxing and education- al weekend, then ethno villages – small, This spring, take your kids out in nature while visiting one of Serbia's popular ethno villages. Photo: Pixabay rural tourist destinations evoking by- gone times and springing up around SPA CENTRES as such spas seem to be gaining mo- salt room and a relaxation room as well The volcano, located in the park the country – are for you. Built in clas- mentum in Serbia, so you can choose as massage rooms. is a model of a real 10-metre-high sic, rustic style, some of these quaint vil- If you are more into massages, sau- among several dozen. Many have facili- Some of these spa resorts also of- volcano; this exhibition is a favour- lages immerse visitors in forgotten cus- nas and thermal water pools, then spa ties for children, so they will enjoy the fer saunas suitable for babies – but ask ite with young visitors. The interior toms: sleeping on huge wooden beds centres are your thing. You are in luck, weekend as much as you. your paediatrician beforehand, just to holds an exhibition on the volcanic A Belgrade market right before Easter. Photo: Beta covered with traditional Serbian cilim, Average prices are around 300 euro be on the safe side. origin of rocks, both from Serbia and or rugs; and eating local cuisine pre- per two for three days. Children usually For more information on prices and abroad. pared in simple, time-honoured ways. get various discounts, or can even stay accommodation visit www.wellness- However, the most interesting part Suncana is one of those small free of charge. spa.rs. of the Centre is so-called Dino Park, From Eggs to Dances – Serbia’s places you can visit over the weekend. To combine a spa with beautiful na- with huge dinosaurs set in life size and Located close to the town and spa of ture, head for the tiny village of Vrdnik, SERBIA'S NATURAL in authentic surroundings. There are Banja Koviljaca in western Serbia, you located on the slopes of Fruska Gora in HISTORY CENTER around 20 replicas of different types of can overnight in the small wooden Vojvodina. You can head to Hotel Pre- dinosaurs, the largest of them being the Best Easter Escapes cottages which all have nice yards in From ethno mier Aqua or to Banja Vrdnik Termal The Natural History Center of Serbia Diplodocus, which is 11 meters high and front. While you can enjoy Pilates and rehabilitation centre. The former of- is located in the central town of Svila- 20 meters long. But the most attractive From an interna- In the morning, however, family and competitive event draws thousands of ity and inspiration in this flat rural para- striking costumes, which include large fitness programmes, your kids can villages to spa fers a Wellness and Spa centre, where jnac, around 110km from Belgrade. dinosaur for visitors remains the scary tional egg-tapping friends wish each other happy Easter, spectators who watch locals and for- dise. The nearby town of Kikinda recent- snow-white woolen hats for men. choose from a number of attractions: you can enjoy the salt cave, relax zone, Opened in June 2015, it hosts eight Tyrannosaurus. exclaiming: "Christ has risen" ["Hristos eigners compete over who has the hard- ly gained popularity on the internet for Although all of this is sure to interest the amusement park, sport terrains, centres with kids’ vichy showers and various kinds of thematic exhibitions – The World of Tickets range from 350 to 500 di- contest to folk vaskrese"] and start egg-tapping, using est eggs and the best tapping technique. its highly photogenic tree-lined General amateur ethnologists, another draw in horse riding, boat and float-driving on sauna – Finnish, infra red or bio sauna. Mineral and Rocks, The World of Dino- nars [around 3-4 euros], while children eggs that they coloured and decorated A global event, it has many rules Drapsin street, which will certainly add a Crnajka is its proximity to some of Ser- Zvornik lake, and more. Together, you Meanwhile, your kids can either enjoy saurs, Sky Rocks, Biodiversity of Serbia, under three can go free. The Center is dancing, Easter on Good Friday. After a visit to church, to ensure fair-play: participants bring few likes to your Instagram account. bia's most scenic hiking destinations, can take one of the various guided corners, there the pools or outdoor playgrounds for The Ice Age Witnesses, Bioarcheology open every day from 10am to 6pm. For lunch is served, with lamb or pork roast their own eggs, only chicken eggs can around the town of . walking tours. basketball, volleyball and tennis. of Djerdap Gorge, Geodiversity of Ser- more information visit: www.prirodn- offers fine oppor- as the centre-piece. be used and the winning egg is cut in EASTER FOLKLORE The most obvious draw is the dra- Another village worth heading to is something However, if pools are what your fam- bia and Volcano. jackicentar.rs. tunities to explore Although the holiday is tradition- half with a sabre. The jury and the win- FESTIVAL, CRNAJKA matic gorge of the Danube just a short is Ethno Village Tiganjica, which is in ily prefers, Banja Vrdnik Terman is a ally a family affair, fine spring weather ner are then required to eat it, before drive north, where you can see the riv- the village of Stajicevo in the northern for everyone great pick. It offers six, with the amaz- lesser-known parts and long weekends inspire quite a few the prize is given out. There are several Located in the heart of the hills of er majestically cutting its way between province of Vojvodina, close to the ing temperature of 32.6 degrees Celsi- ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Serbs to use it to travel. Here are some competition categories and, at the end eastern Serbia, three hours' drive from the hills that traverse the Serbian and town of Zrenjanin. Built in the tradition- seeking an active us. There are also saunas and so-called ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” of Serbia. ways of using Orthodox Easter to get to of the day, an official ranking is pro- Belgrade, Crnajka is the location of the Romanian border. Archeology-enthu- al style of Vojvodina's Banat region, it Health Path (Staza Zdravlja) as well, RESTAURANT KOVAČ know Serbia a little bit better. duced. traditional folklore festival that marks siasts can also visit the remains of a has six rooms and a big farmyard where weekend – in which offers guided tours through the modern ethno restaurant Srdjan GARCEVIC Beside the nerve-wrecking battles Orthodox Easter Sunday. The event stone-age town in Lepenski Vir, close you can try your hand at cooking tradi- area. WORLD EGG-TAPPING of veteran egg-tappers, the visitor can showcases local dances, music and to , and marvel at the tional stews and fish soups. educational Another spa worth visiting is Zdrelo aster Sunday is an especial- CHAMPIONSHIP also enjoy festive delicacies served on costumes and you can also see locals 9,000-year-old artefacts and houses. Here you will also get a chance to SPA, located in the village of the same ly joyful day in Serbia, as it the streets. This is a prime opportunity playing old folk games, engaging in The area is also rich with natural won- listen to traditional music from Banat, terms. name in the Petrovac na Mlavi munici- marks the end of Orthodox Located 150 kilometers north of Bel- to taste and stock up on the famous lo- ubiquitous egg-tapping and serving lo- ders. You might enjoy walking around known as tamburasi. While you can pality in eastern Serbia. Kids will love Lent, when many believers grade, close to the Romanian border, cal cow's milk cheese, whose recipe is a cal foods on the street. Eastern Serbia Serbia's tallest stone bridge, Prerast Valja, ride a horse, your kid can ride a pony, as the Aqua Park with several slides and fast from meat, dairy and Mokrin is the location for "Tucinijada", tightly guarded secret amongst the vil- is especially interesting for its customs which is about 20 minutes' drive towards there are several ponies in the village. the camping area, Mlava, close to the Eeggs. Although spiritually it is the most the World Egg Tapping Championship. It lagers. You can also visit Mokrin House, a owing to its large Vlach population, Majdanpek from Crnajka, or visit Rajko's Apart from that, kids will especially Zdrelo facility. important holiday in the Orthodox takes place on Orthodox Easter Sunday beautifully designed refuge/co-working who have preserved their mysterious cave, one of Serbia's longest, which is love the playground with slides and When it comes to wellness and spa Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com faith, there are relatively few rituals. for the 28th time this year. This highly space for digital nomads seeking seren- ancient customs, acrobatic dances and some 20 minutes further north-west. trampolines. services, there are a steam bath, sauna, 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Resonate Festival Back for CLUBBING Seventh Time The prestigious new media AND LIVE MUSIC festival, Resonate, which Arts in brief Arts in brief traditionally features talks, exhibitions, workshops and FRIDAY, APRIL 6 • Cojke & Milos Starcevic, Ludost • 9th Bday Klub 20/44 w. Hunee concerts, will take place Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm (Rush Hour, DE) & Nikola from April 18 to 21 in venues • Bassiani showcase with Varg • Beyond 2000, Strafta Club, Vemic, 20/44 Club, Usce bb, 11pm across Belgrade. Tickets for and Zitto, Drugstore, Bulevar Admirala Geprata 14, 10pm • Ladies DJ Special Salsa Party, the conference part of the festival start at €170, while Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Seven Moudly Figs, Kvaka 22, Imago CUK, Decanska 14, 10pm admission to all the music • Les Belles de Nuit Festival Ruzveltova 39, 10pm • Amnesia Ibiza Showcase, acts costs €130. Tickets are Night (CH) + Umbra Live, 20/44 • Technicolor (ITA), Sould Hype, Karadjordjeva 46, 11pm available at all Eventim box Club, Usce bb, 11pm Society, Drinciceva 1, 10pm offices. • Nudge, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm • Eric Clapton Night, Polet, SATURDAY, APRIL 14 • Dea Dia, Tranzit Bar, Brace Cetinjska 15, 9pm Experimental Krsmanovic 8, 10pm • Love Fest Fire, Hangar, Sounds and Art at • Memet, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, SUNDAY, APRIL 8 Dunavska 86, 10pm Kvaka 22 7pm • Sonja Sajzor, Grad Cultural • Nivelacija - Nikola Pavlović • Tijana T All Night Long, 20/44 Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, A mini-festival of B2B Veliki Mir, Sprat Bar, Club, Usce bb, 11pm 11pm experimental sound and Cetinjska 15, 7pm • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun • Schwefelgelb Live, Under sound-related art, entitled • As Smooth As, Ljubimac, Club, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Black Helmet, Drugstore, Shimmering, will take place Cetinjska 15, 8pm • The Supersuckers, Grad Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm at Kvaka 22 from March • Migos / Future / Rae Sremmurd, Cultural Center, Brace • 9th Bday Klub 20/44 lena 30-April 8. During the Secer, Svetogorska 17, 11pm Krsmanovica 4, 9pm Willikens&Vladimir Ivkovic / festival, headed by violinist • Friday Party, Strafta Club, Dj Brka, 20/44 Club, Usce bb, 11pm and multimedia artist Manja Admirala Geprata 14, 10pm MONDAY, APRIL 9 • Cherry On Top, DOT, Francuska Ristic, the audience will be • Harleur, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, 6, 11pm able to hear several concerts 10pm • Hot Chocolate, Mr Stefan Braun • Randji / Dapanji live, Imago and improvisations, see an • MANIVI, Sould Society, Club, Nemanjina 4, 11pm CUK, Decanska 14, 11pm exhibition on synesthetic approaches to music, take Drinciceva 1, 10pm • Nada Pavlovic & Band, Muha • Codex Rahmanee Cooby part in workshops and • Men-Gelica Project, Fest Club, Bar, Kralja Petra 18, 8.30pm Selecta Pandorum Kastiljas discussions and much more. Gradski Park 2, 10pm MC & MC Bo Jah, KPTM, Zorza KOLARAC Admission to all events is TUESDAY, APRIL 10 Klemenosa 22, 11pm PROGRAMME donation-based. SATURDAY, APRIL 7 • Cojke & Milos Starcevic, Ludost • Urban SalsaParty, Imago CUK, Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm April is Belgrade • YES : Job Sifre (AD // Decanska 14, 10pm • Urban&4, SubBeerni Centar, Photo Month Knekelhuis / Amsterdam), • Malinada, Ludost Bar, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm • Horkestar, Hrabri Krojac & This year’s Belgrade Photo Stefana 115, 11pm • Sudoku Killer, Grad Cultural BVM, Bozidarac, Radoslava Month will take place • Matador, Hangar, Dunavska 86, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm Grujica 3, 8pm from March 29 to April 30, 9pm • SHLJUKA, Sould Society, bringing together national, • Cherry On Top, DOT, Francuska WEDNESDAY, APRIL 11 Drinciceva 1, 10pm THURSDAY, APRIL 12 TUESDAY, APRIL 17 regional and international 6, 11pm • James Brown Tribute, Fest photographers in a series • Mastering w/ Gramophonedzie Club, Gradski Park 2, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm Music Gallery, 6pm of exhibitions, workshops, & Oysha, Ludost Bar, Hypercube/Concert Season Voice Competition Winners The re-opening ceremony of the National Museum is symbolically set for June 28, St Vitus’ day, or Vidovdan. Photo: Courtesy of the National Museum lectures, talks, as well Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm SUNDAY, APRIL 15 2017/2018 Lazar Jovanovic as a photo market and a Sarajevo Symphony Orchestra Admission free competition for new talents. Conductor: Sinisa Markovic THRURSDAY, APRIL 12 • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun The event will take place at Production: Muzikon TUESDAY, APRIL 17 Club, Nemanjina 4, 11pm various venues throughout Ticket fees: 800, 1, 000 dinars Five Must-See Treasures the city. Admission is free. • Granicna Lepota / Borderline • Magnifico, Belexpocentar, Concert Hall, 8pm Beauty, Drugstore, Bulevar Spanskih Boraca 74, 8pm SUNDAY, APRIL 15 Choir Collegium Academicum Ireland’s Favourite Despota Stefana 115, 8pm • The Bonnevilles, Grad Cultural Conductor: Dragana Jovanovic in the National Museum Dancers Back in • RNB Thursday Delight, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, Concert Hall, 11am Programe: Mokranjac Town Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 9pm Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music 11.30pm Trio Anima WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18 “FOREMOTHER” SCULPTURE MIROSLAV’S GOSPEL and was buried in Banjska monastery The famous and immensely Natasa Veljkovic, piano After a 15-year FREE COPY • Nebojsa Intruder, Ludost Bar, MONDAY, APRIL 16 in present-day Kosovo. She was interred popular Irish music and Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Sandra Belic, cello Music Gallery, 6pm hiatus, Serbia’s most This elaborate, fish-like sculpture Superbly illuminated by skilled with her intricately decorated signet ring, dance company Lord of the Ljubisa Jovanovic, flute Aleksandra Milanovic, violin • Tikilas & Tajci Alabama, Strafta • Hot Chocolate, Mr Stefan Braun of a deity dates from the Mesolithic monks for the church of St Peter near which blends western Gothic and Byzan- Dance is back in Belgrade Production: Music Centre & Tarek Bezvik, horn Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Club, Admirala Geprata 14, 10pm Club, Nemanjina 4, 11pm important museum period and is about 9,000 years old. It Bijelo Polje, in present-day Montenegro, tine influences. This wonderful piece of for another stunning Admission free Production: Music Centre comes from Lepenski Vir, a stone-age this 12th-Century Gospel was commis- medieval jewellery was unearthed in 1915 Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Buc Kesidi, Pub House performance on April 10, at Admission free finally re-opens in settlement located at the Iron Gates sioned by Miroslav of Hum, a noble- during the Serbian Army’s retreat from Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 and Sajzerbiterlemon, TUESDAY, APRIL 17 8pm in the Sava Centre. The SUNDAY, APRIL 15 of the Danube, and discovered in the man and brother of , Austro-Hungarian forces in World War I, company will be presenting Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric Grad Cultural Center, Brace WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18 June, and here are 1960s. The discovery caused a stir in founder of the longest-ruling Serbian and is also significant because it proved BIRN editorial team: Krsmanovica 4, 9pm • Malinada, Ludost Bar, Concert Hall, 8pm the archaeological circles at the time as Medieval dynasty. It is one of the most that the two-headed eagle was the coat of their new production, Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, • Optimal Problem, Fest Club, Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Golden Thread Concert Hall, 8pm five artefacts that Lepenians, as its inhabitants are called, important proofs of the literacy and use arms of the Nemanjic family. Dangerous Games. Tickets cost from €18 to €30, belgradeinsighteditor@birn. Gradski Park 2, 10pm • NYOS / FIN/ & WoO, Divana Ljubojevic&Choir Melodi Concert of Symphony Orchestra appear to have been very sophisticated of the Cyrillic manuscript among the are not to be missed. for their time, as they lived in orderly ancient Slavs. The blend of western Ro- MESTROVIC COLLECTION depending on seating. eu.com Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Ticket fees: 1, 700, 2, 000, 2, 200 and students of Opera Studio FRIDAY, APRIL 13 dinars Production: Faculty of Music Arts, trapezoidal homes and carved elabo- manesque and eastern Byzantine styles Sales & Marketing: Marija rate sculptures of their river gods. make the illuminations particularly ap- Ivan Mestrovic, who grew up in Otavice WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18 Belgrade Top Chinese Petrovic pealing; one of them is used as the logo and Split in Dalmatia, Croatia, was undoubt- Orchestra Pays a • RPDR Balkan Viewing Party, Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Srdjan GARCEVIC PORTRAIT OF of the National Museum. The manu- edly the most accomplished sculptor of the Visit Grad Cultural Center, Brace • Mastering w/ Gramophonedzie CONSTANTINE script was inscribed into UNESCO’s 20th Century from the ex-Yugoslav region. [email protected] Krsmanovica 4, 7pm & Oysha, Ludost Bar, fter a 15-year reconstruc- THE GREAT Memory of the World register in 2005. Distinguished by his symbolic, monumental The Hangzhou Philharmonic Subscription & Distribution: • Jon Blomqvist Live & Henry Saiz Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm tion, the re-opening cer- style, and fierce devotion to unity of South Orchestra from China will Goran Knezevic Live, Hangar, Dunavska 86, 9pm emony of the National Constantine the Great, the Roman THEODORA’S RING Slavic peoples, he designed a series of mon- perform on April 25 at 8pm at +381 63 562 265 • Midnight Orient, Grad Cultural THRURSDAY, APRIL 19 Museum is symbolically Emperor who made Christianity the umental sculptures that drew inspiration Sava Centre in Belgrade. The set for June 28, St Vitus’ state religion of the Empire, may well Queen Theodora was the daughter of from the Serbian legends about the Battle [email protected] Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, orchestra, although relatively day,A or Vidovdan, which is both a folk be the most famous person in history a Bulgarian emperor and mother of the of Kosovo. He exhibited them to acclaim in 11pm • Bandwidth w/Attache, DOT, young, has established Printing: POLITIKA stamparija holiday as well as the anniversary of ever born within the boundaries of most powerful Medieval Serbian ruler, the Serbian pavilion during the 1911 Interna- itself as one of the best in d.o.o. • Rebekah (Soma / Elements, Francuska 6, 11pm two important events in Serbian his- what is now Serbia. A particularly beau- Tsar Dusan Silni [the Mighty]. She had a tional Exhibition in Rome and then, in 1915, in the world. For the Belgrade ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade UK), Drugstore, Bulevar Despota • Nebojsa Intruder, Ludost Bar, tory – the Battle of Kosovo in 1389 and tifully sculpted bronze portrait of him particularly dramatic life as she was ex- the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, Stefana 115, 11pm Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm the assassination of Archduke Franz was found in Naissus, his birthplace, iled to Constantinople with her husband, where his sculpture of the torso of Strahinjic concert, they have prepared a Insight selection of works by Wagner, • DJ Soulseek & Max Abysmal • Wille and the Bandits, Ferdinand in 1914, which started World an ancient Roman city which stood in Stefan of Decani, and then had to support Ban still stands. His dramatic caryatids grace COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Rachmaninoff, Chen Gang (Red Light Radio, NL), Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm War I. Given the long time that many of the area of the present city of Nis. It is him during his struggle to win the crown the entrance to the National Museum from Circulation: 2,000 the museum’s treasures were unavail- believed that the head was part of mon- of Serbia. He was eventually victorious; Vasina Street, while his other works, imme- and Zhang Hao. Tickets cost Drugstore, Bulevar Despota • Gracin, Grad Cultural Center, able to visitors, here are five artefacts umental gilded statue and that it dates however, Theodora’s reign in Serbia lasted diately recognizable for their elongated mus- six or ten euros, depending Stefana 115, 11pm Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm that we are especially keen to see again. from the first half of th4 century AD. only for a few months, as she died in 1322 cularity, are scattered around the museum. on the seating. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 15 GOING OUT THEN AND NOW Gajba: Feel at Home with the Grown-Ups Savski Square: From Traffic Escape from inebriated Hub to Prince’s Memorial teenagers at this top-floor Savamala Serbian Grand club, which clearly Prince Stefan aims to attract Nemanja, the an older, more founder of the sophisticated most important crowd. dynasty in

David GALIC medieval Serbia,

ust when you thought will take his stand that another club couldn’t possibly fit into the same at Savski Square by Savamala building occupied the end of 2018. already by Radost, Mladost Photo: Wikimedia Commons / Aktron Photo: gradnja.rs andJ Ludost, another one has appeared. Fortunately, since it opened about a year ago, Gajba has quickly Siri SOLLIE MONUMENT TO AN ANCIENT PRINCE of Savski Square, shaped by the monument to the BYZANTINE INFLUENCE distinguished itself as more than “just prince. another club” in this popular area. ew plans for the city’s Savski Square The most recent confirmed plans to reconstruct Russian sculptor Professor Alexander Rukav- As the photos indicate, Stefan Nemanja will be To get to Gajba, take the stairs at and the area surrounding the the area at Savski Square involve the erection of ishnikov from Moscow and architect and profes- placed at an ancient, Byzantine helmet. Under- Karadjordjeva 44 all the way up to the former central railway station have a monument to Grand Prince Stefan Nemanja sor Petar Arsic are the authors of the winning neath the helmet and the monument, a space is top. Gajba is located in the attic area of been up for discussion for the last (1165-1228), founder of the Nemanjic dynasty and proposal for the statue. left for the gathering of the Serbian people, along- Gajba has quickly distinguished itself as more than “just another club” in Savamala. Photo: Courtesy of Gajba the building, but it’s very spacious and year. a great contributor to Serbian culture and history. The design proposal reflects a certain Russian side scenes from Nemanja’s life. can fit up to 250 people. or the kind of furniture that hipsters make guests feel like they are attending musicians, like Vasil Hadzimanov, The musical programme, the design NOne of the most profound changes has been The statue was initially intended for the area of the flair for monumentality. The conditions for the The outside will portray two of his most impor- What’s great about Gajba is that as rescue from dumpsters. a house party, albeit one held in a fancy, played here recently. and even the prices target an older, relocating the railway station to Prokop, the new bombed Defence Ministry building, on Kneza Milosa. design, however, included that the monument tant legacies, the in central soon as you enter, it’s clear that this bar The pieces in Gajba are expensive antique-filled flat. The club works from 10pm to 5am six more sophisticated crowd – working central train station, close to Hyde Park in the city However, last September, City Manager Goran Vesic had to be realistic, and Stefan had to be portrayed Serbia and the monastery on Mt Athos and club has an original concept and and antique, and look like they were Despite being located in an attic days a week, from Tuesday to Sunday. people in their thirties and forties. The centre’s Savski Venac Municipality. said that the statue would be erected at Savski Square in his middle years. in Greece. something new to offer. You can tell taken from the apartment of a wealthy apartment, there’s plenty of sunshine If you want to visit Gajba just to grab a club is also popular with tourists and But Savski Square is getting ready for more and construction would finish by the end of 2018. The architects have also taken into account The prince will also be portrayed with a fierce from the furnishings alone that Gajba Belgrade family of the 1950s or 1960s. during the day thanks to the large coffee during the day, you can do that expats, especially at weekends. urban planning reforms, partly due to the con- The city’s Secretariat for Culture on March 16 the ambient of the area as a whole, keeping in sword by his side, and an Orthodox cross in his was opened with a more mature crowd From the rugs to the lamps, ottomans, windows on the walls and the ceiling. as well; the bar works from 2pm. If you’re looking to try something struction of the controversial Belgrade Waterfront announced the winners of the proposals that mind that the former railway station building will hands, symbolising the Christian faith to which in mind. paintings and sculptures, every detail The most dominant aspect of the club Obviously, prices are steeper here than new and more sophisticated, and project. took part in the tender to decide the future look become a museum of Serbian Medieval history. the Serbian ruler was dedicated. The interior looks like a cigar bar has been carefully put together and is the large bar. in most other clubs and bars in Savamala, which doesn’t entail inebriated where 40-something businessmen every piece picked by someone with a To further confirm Gajba’s aim to even in those sharing the same building. teenagers spilling drinks on your might go to unwind and sip a 20-year- great eye. attract a more sophisticated crowd, Cocktails are Gajba’s specialty. Most of shoes, Gajba might just be what the old Scotch. Even the DJs’ booth is interestingly the musical programme consists them cost from five to seven euros. They doctor ordered. The interior is well designed and it’s designed, made out of a converted mainly of DJs who actually spin vinyl also have a good wine list. clear that thought was put into every vintage dresser. records. When the DJs are not playing, You might have picked up by now GAJBA detail. The furniture has an “aged” look, Gajba is a slang word for “home”, so you can expect a jazz, funk or a blues that Gajba is not supposed to be a Address: Karadjordjeva 44 but it’s not the typical grandma couches the obvious point of the design is to band playing live. Well-known jazz mainstream club for everyone. Phone: +381 69 83 00 770

Double Bill of Techno Irish Punk Rockers The at Drugstore Bonnevilles at KC Grad

elgrade techno party promoters Music Reactions have ock critics are hailing The Bonnevilles as the put together another great event for fans of under- most explosive band from Northern Ire- ground, dark techno music on April 17. Drugstore will land since Van Morrison & Them, which host two stars of the contemporary European techno is high praise. They will be playing two scene. Lithuanian-born but Berlin-based Under dates in Serbia on their upcoming Euro- BBlack Helmet has been playing around Europe with luminaries peanR tour, in and in Belgrade, at KC Grad, such as Dax J and Phase Fatale, building his following rapidly on April 15. The band will be promoting their latest with fantastic sets. The headliner is techno live band Schwe- album Arrow Pierce My Heart, which they claim is a felgelb, featuring a Berlin-based duo consisting of singer Sid love album, although the themes are dark and match and “sound provider” Eddy. Music Reactions residents RAR and the music, which is a hybrid of punk rock and Missis- Betomeng will be the local support acts. Tickets cost seven euros sippi Hill Blues. Tickets for this electric rock ‘n’ roll event at the door. cost only three euros at the door.

Popular River Club 20/44 Celebrates 9th Birthday

One of the most popular underground Popular Local music venues in Belgrade, 20/44, will Musicians to DJ at Kluz celebrate its ninth birthday with a full Jan Blomqvist Live at Hangar weekend of festivities. On Friday, April Georgian Club Gets Buka! Sada! [Noise! Now!] is a new con- 13, they will host house producer HUNEE to Showcase in Belgrade Berlin-based solo artists and band leader cept party at which popular Serbian mu- from Germany. On Saturday, the popular Milanese Duo to Play at Bitef Jan Blomqvist will be playing a full live sicians are going to act as DJs and spin splav will host another German DJ, Lena On Friday, April 6, Drugstore will be host- show with his band on Friday, April 13, some of their favourite music. The event Willikens, known for getting everyone to Italian duo Technoir will be performing ing DJs from Bassiani, one of the most at Hangar. Known for inventing a sound will take place at Kluz on Saturday, April dance with her unorthodox DJing style on Saturday, April 7 at the old Bitef venue, popular underground dance clubs in called “concert techno,” his live music 14. Some of the guest DJs on the list in- and interesting song selections. No ticket now known as Soul Society (Drinciceva Tbilisi, Georgia. The lineup will include with his band consists of dreamy vocals clude Cane from Parti Brejkers, Gile from prices have been given yet, but 20/44 is 1). This duo from Milan plays live elec- two DJs, Varg and Zitto. Local support will over minimal beats. Spanish DJ Henry Elektricni Orgazam, , known for charging minimal fees at the tronic music that combines soul and nu come from SAUD and Rope. Tickets will Saiz will also be performing. Tickets will Kojot from Eyesburn and Sky Vikler from door. jazz. Tickets cost €15. cost seven euros at the door. cost €12 at the door. . Tickets will cost € 12. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Thursday, April 5 - Thursday, April 19, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

• Aleksandra Milanovic (violin), • Book Conversation “The Utopia MONDAY, APRIL 16 • King of Betajnova (Cankar), Opera, Ballet Terek Bezvik (horn), Ilija M. Kolarac of Rules”, David Graeber, Dom Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja and Classical Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 6pm • Book Exhibition: What is Hidden Milana 50, 8pm • Concert of Symphony Orchestra • Psychological counselling for in Literary Journals, Studenstki SUNDAY, APRIL 8 and students of Opera Studio, Ilija students, Studenstki Grad Cultural Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar THRURSDAY, APRIL 12 M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Centre, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica Zorana Djindjica 179, 12pm • Ballet: Gisele, Live Broadcasting trg 5, 8pm 179, 7pm • Toxicology and Us, Serbian • Capricious Girl (Trifkovic), Bolshoi Theatre, Usce Shopping • Participatory Democracy Cycles, Academy of Sciences and Arts, National Theatre in Belgrade, Center Cineplexx, Mihajla Pupina THRURSDAY, APRIL 19 Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, Francuska 3, 7.30pm 4, 4.45pm Knez Mihailova 35, 4pm 7pm • Exhibition: History of Toxicology, • Under the Millstone (Nedandic), , Sava Center, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja THRURSDAY, APRIL 12 • Kata Stojanovic (violin), Uki • Lord of the Dance Science and Technology Gallery, Ovaskainen (piano), Serbian Milentija Popovica 9, 8pm Djure Jaksica 2, 6pm Milana 50, 8pm • David Strbac (guitar), Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, • Cycle: Distinguished Professors • Exhibition: Álvaro Sánchez- Academy of Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm of Romance Studies in Serbia, Ilija Montañés, Belgrade Photo FRIDAY, APRIL 13 Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm • Ballet: The Sleeping Beauty M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Month, Dom Omladine, • Orchestra Muzikon, Ilija M. Kolarac (Tchaikovsky), National Theatre in trg 5, 6pm Makedonska 22, 7pm • The Possessed (Dostoyevsky), Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Book Promotion “ Vronsky in • Delicatessen Monday, Grad Cultural National Theatre in Belgrade, Serbia”, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 7pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm FRIDAY, APRIL 13 Exhibitions Studentski trg 5, 8.30pm • Partner Relations in Marriage and Events Cycle, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, SATURDAY, APRIL 14 • Ballet: The Nutcracker WEDNESDAY, APRIL 11 Studentski trg 5, 8.30pm (Tckaikovsky), National Theatre in • The Nineties (Milenkovic), FRIDAY, APRIL 06 National Theatre in Belgrade, Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Annual Photography Festival in TUESDAY, APRIL 17 Francuska 3, 8.30pm • Exhibition: World of Books, Belgrade Belgrade “Belgrade Photo Month”, SATURDAY, APRIL 14 City Library, Kneza Mihaila 56, 10am opening, different locations, 7pm • Language Café, Grad Cultural SUNDAY, APRIL 15 • Exhibition: Mandala and Cross, • Psychology of Aggression Cycles, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm • Opera: Luisa Miller (Verdi), Zoran Naskovski, Goethe Institute, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, • A Novel About London and MetOpera Live Broadcasting, • Capricious Girl (Trifkovic), 8pm Migrants’ Crisis lecture, Ilija Usce Shopping Centre Cineplexx, Knez Mihailova 50, 10am National Theatre in Belgrade, • Lecture: About Creative and M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Mihajla Pupina 4, 6.30pm • Exhibition: Second. And First, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Destructive in Popular Culture trg 5, 7pm • Opera: Madame Butterfly Natasa Teofilovic, Art Gallery of , – Psychoanalytical Case Study • The Misunderstanding (Camus) (Puccini), National Theatre in Cultural Centre of Belgrade, Knez National Theatre in Belgrade, of Jim Morrison, Ilija M. Kolarac WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18 Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7pm Mihailova 6 Francuska 3, 8.30pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, • Exhibition: The Art of • A Month in the Country 8.30pm • Exhibition: Acquisitions, Zepter SUNDAY, APRIL 15 Observation, French Institute, (Turgenev), Yugoslav Drama Knez Mihailova 31, 12pm Museum, Kney Mihailova 42, 3pm Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Trio Anima, Natasa Veljkovic • Exhibition: ARTTEROR: THRURSDAY, APRIL 12 • Exhibition: Figurae Feminae, (piano), Sandra Belic (cello), Ljubisa Fragments of Duality, Podroom Katarina Nedeljkovic, NLB Gallery, MONDAY, APRIL 16 Jovanovic (flute), Ilija M. Kolarac Gallery, Trg Republike 5, 12pm • Spring Health Festival, Central Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 165v, 3pm Military Club, Brace Jugovica 19, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 12pm • Exhibition: Measure of Survival, • The great Drama (Kovacevic), 10am • Divna Ljubojevic and choir Daniela Fulgosi, Drina Gallery, THRURSDAY, APRIL 19 National Theatre in Belgrade, • 7th Forum of the Institute for “Melodi”, Ilija M. Kolarac Andricev venac 4, 1.30pm Francuska 3, 7.30pm Mental Health, Serbian Academy Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Flickering Art Festival, Kvaka 22, • Aesthetics Today, Ilija M. Kolarac • Coffee White (Popovic), National of Sciences and Arts, Knez • Ballet: Who Is Singing Out There Ruzveltova 39, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, (Kostic), National Theatre in Mihailova 35, 6pm • Does Literature Think?, Book panel, 8.30pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 12pm SATURDAY, APRIL 07 Studenstki Grad Cultural Center, FRIDAY, APRIL 13 Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm TUESDAY, APRIL 17 MONDAY, APRIL 16 • Flickering Art Festival, Kvaka 22, • Red Line: Theory of Literature Ruzveltova 39, 8pm • Skeletal Traumatology in Serbia, Today II, Ilija M. Kolarac • Kingdom of Heaven – Epica • Milorad Feodorovic (piano), Serbian Academy of Sciences and Endowment, Studentski trg 5, Balkanica (Bitef Theatre), Cultural Center of Belgrade, SUNDAY, APRIL 08 Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 10am 8.30pm National Theatre in Belgrade, Kolarceva 6, 8pm • Exhibition: diSTRUKTURA, Milan Francuska 3, 7pm • Exhibition: Anna Basa, Ilija Bosnic and Milica Milicevic, Ilija • Tartuffe (Moliere), Yugoslav Drama TUESDAY, APRIL 17 M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Theatre Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm trg 5, 5pm trg 5, 7pm • Lazar Jovanovic Voice Competition • LibertyCon Conference, Ilija TUESDAY, APRIL 10 Winners, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18 MONDAY, APRIL 09 M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Studentski trg 5, 6pm trg 5, 7pm • Choir Collegium Musicum, • Richard the third (Shakespeare), • The Marriage (Gogol), National • Delicatessen Monday, Grad Cultural Dragana Jovanovic (conductor), National Theatre in Belgrade, Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 7pm SATURDAY, APRIL 14 Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Francuska 3, 7.30pm 8.30pm , Grad Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Exhibition: Magnificent 9 • Right You Are, If You Think So • The Kraut Girl (Lazarevic), Cultural Centre, Brace Krsmanovica • Ballet: Woman in D Minor / Long • Exhibition: Jedan, One, Uno, Ein, (Pirandello), Yugoslav Drama Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Christmas Dinner (Poklitaru), 4, 9pm Heritage House Museum, Knez Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Milana 50, 8pm National Theatre in Belgrade, Mihailova 46, 12pm • The Mercy Seat (LaBute), Francuska 3, 7.30pm TUESDAY, APRIL 10 Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja THRURSDAY, APRIL 19 SUNDAY, APRIL 15 Milana 50, 8.30pm WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18 • Annual Photography Festival in • The Power of Darkness (Tolstoy), Belgrade “Belgrade Photo Month”, • Grad Yard Sale, Grad Cultural WEDNESDAY, APRIL 11 National Theatre in Belgrade, • Ana Stefanovic (Grieg, Debussy, opening, different locations, 10pm Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11am Francuska 3, 8.30pm Kovac, Sinatra), Studentski Grad • Exhibition: So, You Are Uros • Exhibition: Kenia, Tanzania, • The House of Bernarda Alba • The Woman from Sarajevo Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Predic, Serbian Academy of Sciences Uganda: 1937 – 1939, Museum of (Lorca), National Theatre in (Andric), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Djindjica 179, 8pm and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm African Art, Andre Nikolica 14, 11am Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Kralja Milana 50, 8pm

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