Bulgaria in Summer Naturetrek Tour Report 31 July - 7 August 2012 Gentianella bulgarica Argiope lobata - spider White Stork Carcharodes orientalis - Oriental Marbled Skipper Report and images by Alan Outen Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Bulgaria in Summer Tour participants: Alan Outen (leader) & Mario Langourov (local guide) with 11 Naturetrek clients Driver Sacho Summary During the course of just a week we had enjoyed superb scenery, a wonderful range of wildlife and splendid hospitality. We had seen an overall total of 763 identified species (the second highest ever for this tour) including 346 higher plants and 265 invertebrate species, of which 89 were butterflies and 31 moths, as well as 23 dragonflies, 23 bugs, 28 beetles etc. It is always difficult to find birds on this tour, being rather late in the season. The extremely high temperatures throughout the week also did not help as birds sort cover, but we nonetheless managed a creditable total of 95 species, including some not often seen on this tour; the tour average over eight years exactly 100 species. Day 1 Tuesday 31st July Fly Heathrow to Sofia then drive to Melnik via stop at Verdena River Sunny on arrival in Sofia, hot, with maximum temp. 28°C As so often on this route, our flight was a few minutes late at take off from Heathrow but we made up time, landing twenty-three minutes ahead of schedule. Having cleared immigration and collected all our baggage, we found Mario, our Bulgarian guide, together with Peter and Susan who had travelled out separately. With the bus loaded up, we were on our way by 2pm. After travelling for less than half an hour we stopped at the Verdena River, a regular site for this tour and always a productive introduction to some of the Bulgarian flora and fauna, as well as a welcome opportunity to stretch our legs. Common Glider, Map, Silver-washed Fritillary, False Grayling, Idas Blue, Lesser Purple Emperor, Clouded Yellow and Scarce Swallowtail were among the many butterflies seen, with the moths represented by several Humming-bird Hawk-moths. Additional interest was provided by Small Pincertail dragonflies, Beautiful Demoiselle damsels, two attractive Bush-cricket species (Poecilimon thoracicus and Tylopsis lilifolia), Red-winged Grasshoppers, a Praying Mantis (Mantis religiosa), the Assassin Bug Rhinocoris iracundus and the red and black- striped bug Graphosoma lineatum (nick-named AC Milan Bug by one group). Birders noted Crag Martin, Treecreeper and Dipper, while the plants here included Soapwort, White Melilot, Wall Germander, Large leaved Spindle, Skeleton Weed Salvia verticillata, Echinops banaticus and Chamerion dodonei. It was already 4.45pm by the time we left here, and we then made a comfort stop at 5.30pm near Samokov. This also gave sightings of Hooded Crow, Pallid and Alpine Swifts and Red-rumped Swallow. Continuing on our journey, we noted White Stork, Short-toed Eagle and Cornflower en route. We eventually reached our hotel in Melnik at 8.10pm where, after checking in, people decided they needed until 9pm to sort themselves out before a very welcome evening meal was eaten outside. The briefing that followed was completed at 10.40pm, after which all were ready to retire to their rooms. It had been a very long day though surely an interesting one. © Naturetrek March 17 1 Bulgaria in Summer Tour Report Day 2 Wednesday 1st August Melnik; near Zornitsa; near Khotovo; Rupite Hot Springs; Marena Place Fishponds Sunny, hot and dry with maximum temp. 34°C, becoming breezy by late afternoon A 7am pre-breakfast walk from the hotel was well attended, though the birds were rather disappointing with Red-backed Shrike the most notable, as well as several common UK species. Some entomological interest was provided by three attractive species: two shieldbugs Carpocoris mediteraneus and Eurydema ornatum and the beetle Clytra atraphaxidis. Butterflies were limited to Small Heath and Common Blue. The flora included Geranium macrorrhizum, Marrubium paregrinum, Eryngium campestre, Campanula scutellata and the yellow flowered Achillea coarctata. Following a substantial breakfast, again eaten outside, we all assembled at 9am and boarded the bus. At 9.25am we made a thirty-five minute stop near Zornitsa village. Here the birders were able to see Bee-eaters and Woodchat Shrike, while insects included Southern White Admiral, the bush-cricket Decticus albifrons, another Praying Mantis and Violet Carpenter Bee. Among the plants here were Echinops sphaeroephalus, Scabiosa argentea, Centaura hyalolepis and C.salonitana var. macrantha. We continued for just a few minutes and stopped again near to the village of Khotovo. This proved a productive stop, especially for butterflies with Southern White Admiral, Silver-studded Blue, Holly Blue, Long-tailed Blue, Great Banded Grayling, Oriental Marbled Skipper, Spotted Fritillary, Small Copper, Swallowtail and Scarce Swallowtail, with a Purple-barred Moth (Lythria purpuraria) a nice bonus. Other invertebrates were also good, among these being Southern Skimmer dragonfly, a fine bush-cricket Bucephaloptera bucephala, an ant lion species Creolon plumbeus, a long-horn beetle Chlorophorus varius, a large jewel beetle Julodis ornopordi and the Wasp Spider (Argiope bruennichi). Birds seen here included Buzzard, Crested Lark and Lesser Grey Shrike, whilst a Golden Oriole was heard. Few paid much heed to the flora, though Christ's Thorn (Paliura spina-cristi), Periploca graeca, Centaurea diffusa, Nigella arvensis, Delphinium peregrinum, Melissa officinalis, Xeranthemum annuum and Equisetum telmateia were noteworthy additions to the list. We drove on just short distance before stopping again for a White Stork, a Hoopoe and a Hermann's Tortoise, and after just twenty minutes stopped yet again for an occupied White Stork nest and Italian Sparrows. As it was already 12.55pm when we reached the hot springs at Rupite, we had our picnic lunch on arrival. In the shaded shelter where this was laid out, Mario spotted a Lattice Brown butterfly roosting in the rafters, while other butterflies at the site included Eastern Bath White, Small Copper, Southern White Admiral, Oriental Marbled Skipper and one of Mario's highlights of the week, a pair of mating Little Tiger Blues. As always here, the dragonflies and damsels were also a feature with Black-tailed, White-tailed and Southern Skimmers, Scarlet Darter, White legged Damsel and Banded Demoiselle among those noted on this occasion. Other insects seen included the curious-looking mantis species Empusa fasciata, Slant-headed Grasshopper (Acrida mediterranea), Ancyrosoma leucogrammes (a striped shield-bug species with very large 'shoulders') and the attractive Scollid wasp Colpa sexmaculata. In the stream were Western Mosquitofish, Marsh Frogs and Balkan Pond Terrapin, while the best of the birds were Corn Bunting, Rock Bunting, Barred Warbler, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, European Roller (a species rarely seen on this tour) and Bee-eaters. The plants here were also of interest, among these 2 © Naturetrek March 17 Bulgaria in Summer Tour Report being Maltese Cross (Tribulus terrestris) with fiercely spiny fruits, Lavatera thuringiaca, Heliotropium europeum, Echium italicum, Scolymus hispanicus, Centaurea rutifolia, Cynanchum acutum (Stranglewort) and the Dodder Cuscuta campestris. Many of the group dabbled their hands in the hot springs in which water temperatures can reach 74° C. Not surprisingly it is a popular place for locals as a spa. We left here soon after 4pm, stopping again after twenty-five minutes, this time for welcome cold drinks and ice creams. We then drove to the Marena Place fish ponds. Here Scarlet Darter was abundant with Ruddy and Red- veined Darters also present. Large Copper butterfly was also common here, a stunning sight, with the delightful Lesser Fiery Copper also seen. Four other invertebrates that proved popular with the photographers were a fine specimen of the bush-cricket Decticus albifrons that posed in perfect position, the orange and black banded blister beetle species Mylabris variabilis, the impressive Megascolia flavifrons (the largest European wasp) and also the largest European centipede Scolopendra cingulata. Birds included Reed Warbler and more Bee-eaters, whilst among the plants were Penny Royal, both Sharp-leaved and Round-leaved Fluellen, and the white-flowered Cut-leaved Teasel. We were late back to the hotel, where we arrived at 7.30pm, so dinner was not until 8.30pm and was followed by a run-through of the list for the first two days. Day 3 Thursday 2nd August Melnik; Kresna Gorge; above Illindentsi; Struma River; Marena Place small pond Hot, dry and sunny, but becoming overcast later, with maximum temp. 34°C. In the course of this morning's pre-breakfast walk, Mount Olympus St John's-wort was added to the plant list and Daphne deftly caught a specimen; the grasshopper Oedipoda caerulescens, which reveals blue flash colours on the hind wings when it flies. It was, however, again disappointing for birds with Green Woodpecker perhaps the best. After a good breakfast, we left on the bus at 9.22am. A brief stop in the village for lunch provisions gave good views of White Wagtail, while the leaves of a Horse Chestnut tree were heavily infested with leaf mines of the micro-moth Cameraria ohridella. This species was first observed in Macedonia in 1984 and described as new to science in 1986. It was first noted in Britain at Wimbledon in 2002, but is now widespread throughout most of the UK. As we drove, trees of False Acacia (Robinia pseudacacia - celebrated for producing a fruity and fragrant honey) were noted by the roadside and a Grey Heron was also spotted. At 10.30am we arrived at the famous Kresna Gorge. This is one of the best natural history sites in Bulgaria, justly famous for its rich biodiversity but regrettably threatened by a major road development, which will be a tragedy.