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Famous Old Receipts Used a Hundred Years and More in the Kitchens Of 3i 1' r FAMOUS OLD RECEIPTS USED A HUNDKED YEARS AND MORE in the Kitchens of the North and the South CONTRIBUTED BY DESCENDANTS ^ COMPILED BY JACQUELINE HARRISON SMITH SECOND AUTHOKIZED EDITION 1908 PHILADELPHIA The John C. Winston Co f , Cnp3'right, igot? By fArorKMN;p: Harris-ox Smitic. Copyright igof) By jACijrEHXIi IlARRtSflN: SNttTIC. CONTRIBUTORS. NOTE. The thanks of the Compilers are extended to those whose interest and assistance have made this work possible, and also to many whose material was received too late to be used. CONTRIBUTORS. Mrs. Prescott Adamson Germantoivn, Pa. Mrs, Mary C B. Alexander Germantoum, Pa. Mrs. James M. Anders. Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Joseph L. Arguembau Hackcnsack, N. J. Mrs. Richard L. Ashurst Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Meredith Bailey Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Mary F. Baker Philadelphia, Pa. Miss F. Virg-inia Baldwin West Orange, N. J. Baptiste, head waiter of the Bellevue-Stratford Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Charles Heath Bannard Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Thomas J. Barger Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Louise Puquet du Bellet Natchez, Miss. Mrs. Samuel Bettle Haverford, Pa. Miss Mary D. Biddle Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Mary Palmer Bispham Overbrook, Pa. Mrs. Francis T. Boykin Richmond, Va. Mrs. Frank A. Brastow Haverford, Pa. Mrs. Joseph Coleman Bright Overbrook, Pa. Miss Caroline E. Brooks Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Sarah Perot Brooks Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. James Crosby Brown Rosemont, Pa. Mrs. Susan Lynah Norris Bruce Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Caroline Rogers Buehler Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. John Burroughs PhUadelphia, Pa. Mrs. F. S. Burrows Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Duncan Lawrence Buzby Philadelphia. Pa. 5 6 FAMOUS OLD RECEIPTS Mr. John Cadwalader Philadclphm, Pa, Mrs. John Cadwalader Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. NelHe Burnside Cameron Providence, R. I. Mrs. John M. Cardeza Claymont, Del. Mr. Coalter Bryan Carmichael Fredericksburg, Va. Mrs. Adelaide Brag-g- Carrick Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Francis Taylor Chambers Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Mary E. Chandon Chateau Belleviie, Geneva. Mrs. E. W. Clark, Sr Germuntozmi, Pa. Mr. Herbert L. Clark Germantown, Pa. Mrs. Edwin T. Clinton Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Malcolm S. Councill Bryn Mazvr, Pa. Mrs. Charles Brinton Coxe Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Kathryn Coxe Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Edwin S. Cramp Philadelphia, Pa. ;Miss Anne H. Cresson Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. C. W. Dailey "Elkins," W. Va. Mrs. Russell W. Davenport. Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Diehl Brezvster, N. Y. Mrs. Naudain Duer Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Caroline Duer Crosswicks, New Jersey Mrs. Charles Duggin .New York City Mrs. John H. Easby Philadelphia, Pa. Lieutenant Houston Eldredge Fortress Monroe, Va. Mrs. G. H. Ellerbe Birmingham, Ala. Mrs. Theodore Newel Ely Bryn Mawr, Pa. Mrs. Mary Mercur Eshleman Lancaster, Pa. Mrs. Samuel Ewing Bryn Mawr, Pa. Mrs. Charles A. Farnum Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Hannah Fox Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. L. Webster Fox Haverford, Pa. CONTRIBUTORS 7 Miss Jane Gamble Roanoke, Va. Mrs. Robert Gamble Havcrford, Pa. Mr. Paul Garrett Norfolk, Va. Mrs. Arnold Gerstell ' "Elkins," IV. Va. Miss Maria Gilpin Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Richard Gilpin Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. William A. Glasgow, Jr Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Gottschalk Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. C. V. Greenwood Middletozvn, N. J. I\Irs. Morris Hacker Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. James T. Halsey Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Matilda Halsey Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Sue Mason Maury Halsey Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Anne Swift Hammond Providence, R. I. Mrs. Elizabeth Cooper Harrison Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Gulielma Harrison Brandon, Va. Mrs. J. A. Hewlett Brooklyn, N. Y. Miss Elizabeth N. Hill Bryn Mawr, Pa. Mrs. Lydia S. Hinchman Philadelphia, Pa. Andrew Hisler, Chef of the Bellevue-Stratford Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Walter Horstmann Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. William Govane Howard Govanstozv-n, Va. Mr. Barclay Johnson Strafford, Pa. Miss Pauline Johnson Strafford, Pa. Mrs. Clara Pollard Lee Montgomery, Ala. Mrs. Louis R. Lemoine Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Lucretia C. Lennig Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Elizabeth C. Lewis Bryn Mawr, Pa. Mrs. L. L. Lewis Richmond, Va. Mrs. J. Bertram Lippincott Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Meta Lisle Philadelphia, Pa. o FAMOUS OLD RECEIPTS Mrs. Horatio Gates Uoyd Haverford, Pa. Mrs, Morris Longstreth Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Looney Memphis, Tenn. Mrs. Lilly Latrobe Loring Washington, D. C. Mrs. Roberts Lowrie Bryn Mazvr, Pa. Miss Eliza Sinclair Lyon Bryn Mawr, Pa. Miss Mary Mcllvaine Nezvark, N. J. Miss Rebecca Mcllvaine Nezvark, N. J. Mrs. Augustine Mason Hagerstozvn, Md. Mrs. Charles B. Maury Washington, D. C. Mrs. Robert H. Maury Richmond, Va. Miss Josephine Barry Meeks Oratige, N. J. Mrs. Samuel V. Merrick Germantozvn, Pa. Mrs. D. Leeds Miller Haverford, Pa. Mrs. M. Kim Miller Nezo York City Miss A. Jacqueline Minor Nezu York City Mrs. Charlotte Cranwell Minor New London, Conn. Miss Marie L. Minor Nezu York City Miss Charlotte Mitchell Nezv Orleans, La. Mrs. Fred'k Wister Morris Villa Nova, Pa. Mrs. Junius Mosby Richmond, Va. Mr. J. B. Mosby Richmond, Va. Mrs. John Murdoch Baltimore, Md. Miss A. Myers Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Joseph Neff Philadelphia. Pa. Mrs. James M. Noyes Montclair, N. J. Miss Ellie Ogden Morristozuu, N. J. Commander Hugo Osterhaus U.S. Navy Mrs. John H. Parsons Upper Montclair, N. J. Mrs. C. Stuart Patterson Chestnut Hill, Pa. Mrs. Richmond Pearson Ashcvillc, N. C. CONTRIBUTORS 9 Miss Isabelle Pegram Providence, R. I. Mrs. Robert E. Peterson •. Asbitry Park, N. J. Mrs. George Philler Haverford, Pa. Mrs. William R. Philler Haverford, Pa. Mrs. John Poe Baltimore, Md. Mrs. Robert L. Pollard Austin, Texas. Mrs. Earl B. Putnam Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Mary Lapsley-Pyle Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Norman V. Randolph Richmond, Va. Mr. Francis Rawle Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. Mark L. Reqiia Oakland, Cal. Miss Alice W. Richardson Louisville, K\. Mrs. John Beverly Roberts Bryn Mazm-, Pa. Mrs. Portieux Robinson Richmond, Va. Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt Washington, D. C. Mrs. Charles Putnam Searle Boston Mass. Mrs. Ralph W. Seiss Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Mary E. Shandon Connecticut Mrs. Thomas B. Sims Bryn Mawr, Pa. Miss Caroline Sinkler Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Alice C. Slaughter Louisznlle, Ky. Mr. Louis F. Sloan Charleston, S. C. Mrs. Edward Jacquelin Smith Fredericksburg, Va. Mrs.'H. Cavalier Smith Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. J. Frailey Smith Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Katherine Smith Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Lelia Andrews Smith Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. W. Hinckle Smith Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Jacqueline Harrison Smith Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. and Mrs. Charles Stevens Charleston, S. C. Mrs. Cornelius Stevenson Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. Morris R. Stroud Philadelphia, Pa. lo FAMOUS OLD RECEIPTS Mrs. Lewis N. Webb IVashington, D. C. Miss Elizabeth White .* ,.St. Paul Minn. Miss Katharine Willcox IVestport. Conn. Mrs. Ezra WilHams West Orange, N. J. Mrs. James D. Winsor Haverford, Pa. Mrs. Wilham D. Winsor Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Winifred Wooster Forest Hill, N. J. Mrs. Robert C. Wright Haverford, Pa. DeMcate^ to The Old Memories which this Book will recall of the Hospitable Homes of the North and the South. INTRODUCTION- : INTRODUCTION. The title of this book by itself conveys so much that any intro- duction to the many good things told in its pages seems superfluous. It certainly should not require any urging to induce all who can to read, mark, learn and inwardly digest them. " One hundred years ago and more " brings before us a delightful period in our country's history, and recalls the generous, cordial feel- ings which prevailed among our ancestors — that " open-handed spirit, irank and blythe, of ancient hospitality," which made the homes of the New World all that a stranger could desire. We may reconcile ourselves to the passing of " the fugaceous hospitalities of the snuffbox " as needing the powdered wig and three- cornered hat to justify them. What a genuine ring there is in the words of Washington, referring to Mount Vernon, when he said " T.et the hospitality of the house with respect to the poor be kept up; let no one go hungry away." And the cordiality of Jefferson while living in Philadelphia is delightfully expressed in a letter to Richard Peters: "Call on me whenever you come to town, and if it should be about the hour of three, I shall rejoice the more. You will find a bad dinner, a good glass of wine, and a host thankful for your favour and desirous of encouraging repetitions of it, wathout number, form, or ceremony." It was a time when there was truly that " hospitality sitting with gladness," w-hich all the luxuries of the present day cannot supply. Athenaeus, as early as the Third century, held that " Every inves- tigation which is guided by principles of nature fixes its ultimate aim entirely on gratifying the stomach." And Dr. Johnson, in simpler phrase, confirms Athen?eus when he says : " I look upon it that he 15 i6 FAMOUS OLD RECEIPTS who does not mind his belly will hardly mind anything else." This volume would appeal to both philosophers. The sources of the recipes add greatly to their value and interest. Though described as coming from " the kitchen," they were the work of as gentle dames as ever graced a court. It is a sad error to suppose that the homely accomplishments of housewives, deemed essential at the end of the eighteenth and begin- ning of the nineteenth centuries in this country, are no longer impor- tant. A hundred years ago so much could be left to faithful serv^ants that even less was required of the heads of households than now. There are, alas! no more of those loyal, devoted, if humble, members of the family circle who, in wealth and health or in trouble, never failed to supply the comforts and maintain the dignity of the old homes. To-day even in England or Scotland a Caleb Balderston would be hard to find, and the colored " Aunties " have disappeared under the changed conditions at the South. The character of the hospitality at the North differed from that at the South, especially in the rural sections. In the North the well- kept inns to be found on many of the principal roadways supplied what the roof of the planter generously offered to the traveler in the Southern States.
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