Plan Your Trip Understand Jamaica
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 1 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip Welcome to Jamaica ...... 2 Welcome to 20 Top Experiences ....... 6 Jamaica Need to Know ................. 14 If You Like ........................ 16 Month by Month ............. 19 Itineraries ........................ 21 COUNTRY REGIONAL • The original • Cultural Outdoor Activities .......... 26 Jah’s Garden can be a daunting subject for foreigners to understand, but ultimately it’s a matter of Ask any Jamaican in a cold suburb of To- appreciating this land and how its cyclical Day trips & itineraries ronto or New York or London what they rhythms set the pace of so much island life. • Comprehensive • 6 miss about their island, and the answer is inevitably the island itself, the great green garden and natural landscape that consti- Diving, Spelunking & In-depth Regions at a Glance ....... 31 tutes one of the most beautiful islands of Cycling • Adventurous • the Caribbean. Jamaica’s lovely landscape Jamaica cries out to be explored, be it un- begins with crystalline waters Á owing over derwater, on hikes, river-bound with a raft, gardens of coral, lapping onto sand as soft underground with a lamp on your head, or as yellow butter, as dark as ash and white on the road by car or bicycle. You are wel- as rice, then rising past red soil and lush come to spend the entirety of your trip on 20banana groves into sheer mountains. This the beach or in a jerk shack, and we wouldn’t is powerfully beautiful country, captivating blame you for following that instinct. But to the eyes and soul, and as such, the sub- if you access the Jamaican outdoors you’ll ject of many Jamaican poems, songs and be seeing sides of this island many tourists TOPdeep wells of nostalgia. Jamaican culture miss. We want to stress: outdoor activities EXPERIENCES 01-welcome-jamaica-jam6.indd 2 14/07/2011 3:59:27 PM 24 CARIBBEAN SEA Puerto Seco Beach Rio Green Bueno Grotto Chukka •# •# •# •# Caves Cove Farm É St Ann's PLAN YOUR TRIP Duncans É •# Bay •# •# Ocho Maima Seville É •# Rios • Great House & # Dunn's #• Goldeneye regions Dornoch Heritage Park •# Firefly Riverhead É River Mystic •# •# Falls Mountain É #• at a Fern JAMAICA Gully Blue Mounta ITINERARIES glance & Southeast Coast The Central Coast former capital, or take Hiking 333 Ocho Rios to Runaway Bay a walking tour through the streets of Downtown Birding 333 Kingston to trace the Luxury Retreats 33 capital’s development. For decades, Kingston One week One week has been a microcosm of Hiking Ocho Rios to Runaway Bay The Central Coast the Jamaican experience; As well as the island’s understanding the his- most popular hike – th tory of this city is reading night-time climb up to We’ll start this trip from the anchor Start in Montego Bay and travel east of tourism on the north central to Duncans, making sure to stop in the history of the nation Mountain Peak, the isl coast: Ocho Rios. There’s a lot to see the atmospheric (and inaccurately writ small across the highest point – the mo around ‘Ochi’ itself, from history (St named) Sober Robin pub. After- Kingston & streets of its capital. tains oՖ er numerous o Ann’s Bay, where Christopher Columbus wards you should head to Rio Bueno and Around trails to suit all abilitie Nightlife was marooned for a year) to kitschy tourism spend the evening at the highly idiosyn- Cuisine 333 The musical heart of The mountains in the activities like Mystic Mountain, where you cratic hotel-art gallery that is the Hotel Rio History 333 Jamaica, Kingston never ing aՖ ord some of the can bobsled in Jamaica a la Cool Runnings. Bueno. The next day, ask around for a guide Nightlife 333 sleeps and you can join a wildlife-spotting in Jam Give yourself two days to chill out around to take you into the ghost-town countryside O h Ri ki f ll d f h fhDhRihdIf h h h party on any night of the Birding week. Its nightlife ranges The Blue Mountains ar 03-top-experiences-jam6.indd 6 15/07/2011 2:58:35 PM Cuisine from formal nightclubs to home to most of Jama As Jamaica’s main city, it’s street dances consisting 250 species of bird, inc only À tting that Kingston of giant speakers set up ing Jamaica’s national should be the culinary capi- at either end of a street, the streamertail humm tal as well. Feast yourself on to stage shows featur- bird (also known as th jerk chicken, curry goat and ing the biggest names doctorbird). Also here other Jamaican delights, in dancehall and reggae. the John Crow vulture as well as exquisite sushi Every night of the week, the ‘patoo’ – the Jamai and international gourmet there is some sort of free brown owl. cuisine. Kingston is a great live music going down somewhere in this city. Luxury Retreats spot for neighbourhood Those wishing get awa Make sure you come to eateries and holes-in-the- from the bustle of the Looking for other travel resources? downtown parties with a wall, but it is also one of the capital by combining t friendly local. recognized frontier pushers ultimate luxury with su in the À eld of haute Carib- views and gourmet cui 07-itineraries-jam6.indd 24 13/07/2011 4:36:18 PM PAGE UNDERSTAND09-regions-at-a-glance-jam6.indd 31 14/07/2011 9:52:15 AM GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 247 Learn about the big picture, so you JAMAICA can make sense of what you see slavement and subsequent demise of Jamaica s original in peaceful Taínos, led to the establishment of an e cient economic system underpinned by the At antic s ave tra e Jamaica Today................ 248 AFR becoming Britain’s most prized Crown colony The very harshness of slavery become the cata st for À The Story of the from slaves, which ranged from disobedience to À ght an Jamaican People by Philip Sherlock was slavery that paved the way for independence by giving and Hazel Ben- mulatto population, whose clamor for the same rights as th History ............................. 250 nett offers a new bears would not be silenced. Black consciousness and a À interpretation of born of this pre-independence turbulence, aՖ ecting the w Jamaica’s history It is the legacy of those 300 years that divides the islan that eschews the imperial perspec- lines still drawn (though less so in the music industry), and tive, instead pendence discontent leading the have-nots to turn upon eac Jamaican Life ................. 261 looking to Africa passion and the perseverance of the Jamaican people, wh for the keys to the island and its culture so vital, lead you to imagine a bri understanding the island’s complex culture. Xaymaca An Amerindian group, the Arawakan-speaking Taínos, set Music ............................... 268 around AD 700 to 800. The Taínos are believed to have LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE Natural Jamaica ............. 273 1494 1503 For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, C h r i s t o p h e r C o l u m b u s Columbus returns to Po Jamaican Life À rst lands on Jamaica, Jamaica for the fourth i advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas Jamaicans are as diverse a people as the island’s geography is varied. Far which he names Santa time, convinced he Food & Drink ................... 278 from being conÀ ned to the dreadlocked, spliՖ -pu ng Rastafarian vibin’ Jago; it later becomes can forge a passage to reggae or the violent ‘rude bwai’ (rude boy, criminal) of the ghetto, his personal property. to Asia. However, his chapters they comprise many social and demographic strata. decrepit ships are lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine Street-level Jamaica can be daunting at À rst. Poverty blights Jamaica’s ruined and he and towns, and tourists mean money. Nevertheless, with reasonable precau- his party become tions, you’ll soon fall under the spell of Jamaica’s inimitable charms. Vio- lence rarely impinges on foreigners; it is mostly restricted to drug wars s t and political gang feuds in the ghettoes of Kingston, Spanish Town and ( Montego Bay. What emerges is a panoply of communities: from the sleepy À shing hamlets that line the coasts to the cosmopolitan business sector of the u a ital, from the bustling market towns to the autonomous Maroon 20-history-jam6.indd 250 15/07/2011 2:48:36 PM STAY IN TOUCH J mountain villages. And while you can of course meet Rastas ha y to smoke ganja with you, you’ll also encounter proud matriarchs resid ing over the family-owned rum shop, dancehall enthusiasts delighted to lonelyplanet.com/contact take you to the local sound-system party bush-medicine doctors who ‘T AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT management of the world’s forests.