PORTS of t/ze WORL G I B R A L T A R

PU B BBBB B B B B BUREAU OF NAVIGATION

U N D E R A UTHO R IT$ OF TH E

S E C R ETA R $ OF TH E N A V$

Fo re wo rd

H ffi A n . T the o cers a d enlisted men of the U S . Navy may have the latest available information on the ports of S the world , the Bureau of Navigation , ixth Division , is preparing individual guidebooks on one hundred of To k these ports . supplement these guideboo s , illus trat e d lectures on these same ports are being pre pared In addition to information about each city and its un d $ surro dings , certain etails of practical interest to h H ffi d t e S . ightseer have been included owever , as tra c sche ules , n in n . mo ey excha ge , etc are constantly chang g , these details should

be carefully checked upon arrival in port . Grateful acknowledgment is mad e to the National Geographic S d and n ociety for their suggestions , both as to e itorial policy i ter d esting etails concerning Gibraltar and its environs .

FW” e

I N DE X

Intro du ct o n Cad z the O de t To wn in S a n i i , l s p i

Gibraltar $ Past and Pre se nt The Capital o f Mo ro cco Gibraltar and the Gre at War Granada and the Alhambra Plan o f City and Its Enviro ns Th e Galle ri e s City o f Malaga

’ The M o o rish Castle Gibraltar s N e ighbo ring To wns Alame da Garde ns Me an s o f Trave l Th e Barracks o f Gibraltar Hunting in Spain Th e Marke t Hu nting in Mo ro cco Th e Exchan ge and Library Ce nte rs o f Info rmatio n The Garriso n Library Cabs The Asse mbly Ro o ms Ho te ls Re cre atio nal Facilitie s Re staur ants and C o fie e Ho u se s The atre Ro yal Mo ne y Th e Ro ck and I ts Enviro ns Spanish Th e Cave s English Th e Mo nke ys Po stage Eu ro pa Po int Churche s The Harbo r Climate Alge ciras Me mo randa

S e ve n

I ntro du ctio n

N THE borderland between Occiden t and Orient$ where East meets West and the civilization of tod ay is e ntwined with the quaint customs and superstition s of a veiled yesterday n as k and there sta ds a towering m s of gray roc , stern forbidding , $ $ $ n$ Gibraltar e y of the Mediterranea abode of romance .

‘ The eyes of seafaring men hav e turned toward Gibraltar n n v si ce the earliest days of history , whe the earth was belie ed and in and m to be flat , men sailed their ships fear tre bling , n v v apprehe si e lest they tumble o er the edge of the world . n v n m n t he e P Imagi ati e ancients , maki g co pariso s , aptly applied t rm illars ” H G P A t he c o of ercules to ibraltar and the romontory byla , on Moroc side of the narrow strait . It was at Gibraltar where the adventurous sailors of ancient P hoenicia furled o f and n d v n the sails their cockleshell ships a chored for awhile to buil sil er colum s , ” d n v n eclari g the straits to be the limits of na igatio . And P G C it was at alos , a few miles west of ibraltar , where olumbus mobilized his n and n ti y fleet of three ships set forth with brave hopes , withal swiftly beati g e o n w ne . h art , the voyage which was to result in the discovery of a world S ince days of old there hav e been man y bitter struggles for possession of G n ne o ne th e in ibraltar , re ow d as of most important strategic fortresses the world .

N ine Th e and S and F and blood of Moors paniards rench British was spilled , and and n and a nd great fleets were battered su k , sailors soldiers rose to immortal m in n G fa e the wars which raged through the ce turies for the mastery of ibraltar . i n d England , largely because of the impetuous dar ng of Nelso , who secure this important strategic position for his country$ but lost his life in the under

$ taking has occupied Gibraltar since 1 704 . ’ ' And n d G the e fie ct n the story of E glan s struggle for ibraltar , its possessio ’ n and an has had on Britai s imperial policy the expansion of her trade , reads like n n v i teresti g and absorbing no el . Tourist travel to the inland places of interest in Gibralta r has been resumed n n n T v v n O n si ce the sig i g of the armistice . ra elers are also gi e an pportu ity to k d and ma e si e trips to Spain to the Barbary S tates , where Decatur sailed with his warships and terrified into submission the pirates who had been preying o n American merchantmen and endeavoring to exact tribute from the American people . And the following pages tell something of life and customs and people an d places in Gibraltar and Morocco and neighboring territories $ whose shores are and perpetually kissed by the restless blue waters of the Mediterranean , whose H $ mode of living is a bizarre combination of East and West . ere they meet ’ And $ can v in d the old , old verse of ipling s ne er , this day , be applie to this portion o f the Mediterranean

Fo r and East is East West is West , ’ ” n h A d ne er t e twain shall meet . G I B R A L TA R

GIBRALTAR PAST AND PRESENT I B RA LTAR is perhaps the greatest natu ral beacon

of navigation . Its rocky promontory juts into the sea at the Atlantic entrance

to the Mediterranean . Th e Gibraltar peninsula runs almost due north and h and m n and sout , is about three iles lo g three- quarters of a mile across at the widest n part . It is con ected with the mainland of

S pain by a sandy isthmus two miles long . The cen tral part of the isthmus is known $ th e e nd as the Neutral one , at southern of which are gates marking the frontier of Th e the British possessions . gates at the northern e nd open upon Spanish territory . n On accou t of its great strategic value ,

Gibraltar has undergone man y sieges . It has been held in turn by the Moors , the i n S n a d . A t ca ce ne in Wate o t Stre e t pa sh , the British Over the doors ypi l s rp r of the shop and on street corners are Th e o d m v ff f Af . an E English na es , gi ing the e ect of a curious mixture rican ast C w n n and small British town . lose by , ho ever , are I dian people , thro ging the streets

‘ s o f h shops of the Oriental type , sugge ting the crowding the low doorways the s ops ,

and C ai . d bazaars of Damascus ro pro uce an Oriental atmosph e re .

E le ven G I B R A L TA R

Gibraltar was the g ateway through which the Moors entered Spain from Northern D A . Africa . And after 7 1 1 . the Rock was named Jabel -al- Tarik $Hill of Tarik) after A Tarikibn $ the rab chief iad , who built a fortress on the promontory , part of which Th e G still exists . modern name of ibraltar f A - al is derived rom the rabian term , Jabel

Tarik . In the fourteenth century it was $ n C taken by the i g of astile , but it was soon n recaptured by the Moors , and remai ed in their possession until the latter part of the fi n o C ftee th century , sh rtly before olumbus o n v A set forth his voyage of disco ery . few years later the Duke of Medina Sidonia o b t aine d possession , and it was a number of years before it became a Castillian posses o n Th sion ce more . e Spaniards had by this n fi time so stro gly forti ed it , however , that P it easily withstood the Barbary irates . S e cke l S G p of trassburg , a erman engineer , is responsible for the first heavy and modern fi Ente r n the Har o r o f G ra tar forti cations . i g b ib l

E S i S 1 0 n arly in the War of the pan sh ucces 7 5 , it was u successfully b e sieged by the A C S 1 1 sion , known in the merican olonies as paniards , and in 7 3 it became a British A ’ S P $ ueen nne s War , the paniards surren possession by the eace of Utrecht . dered th e fortress to the British Admiral During the last 2 00 years nothing has

. F 1 0 n A l n Rooke rom October , 7 4 , u til pri , bee omitted by the British to render the for

Twe lve G I B R A L TA R

e e d n tr ss impregnabl . S pain has ma e ma y e ff o rt s t o re g ain p o sse ssio n o f the g re at st ro ng an n ff e hold d o ce o red for it . Trafalgar is a low promontory at the r n n G weste n e tra ce to the S trait of ibraltar . 2 1 1 80 On October , 5 , Lord Nelson won one of the greatest naval battles of history over n the combi ed fleets of France and Spain , which consisted of 3 3 ships . Lord Nelson n 2 h e e had o ly 7 . T British fleet f ll on the i rear of the all ed fleet , and after a terrible contest , in which the English admiral lost l i his ife , the British completely disorgan zed i h the host le fleet . Eig teen ships were cap ’ tu re d and Napoleon s naval powe r was gone forever . GIBRALTAR AND THE GREAT WAR G G N the reat War ibraltar A ne at vie w o f Gibraltar was the base of 4 1 ships A and 9 subchasers of the Rear dmiral Niblack , U . S . N com d S Th e mand e d i Unite tates Navy . the Un ted S tates naval forces bas S ac a n t G . S . S . r me o 1 1 U ar ing on ibraltar from November , 9 7 , to v in G 1 1 n 1 0 1 1 l v n Ad ri ed ibraltar in 9 7 Ja uary , 9 9 , re ie i g Rear miral m n H B ir i . . . . N . followed by the g B Wilson , U S , who had been in ham C he ste N ashv lle C a n n h r i s t e . , , , comma d si ce the early part of war ’ tine Machias Al arz e tta P ad uc a h 6 C Th e n e v , , , and , oast U it d S tates na al base was in the G h ne o n th e e f o n and uard cutters , 9 yac ts , and 5 destroyers . British seapla shed wat r r t ,

Thirteen G I B R A L TA R

The f th e headquarters were in the Tower Build the east . eastern side o the Rock is ’ His n ff n ing at Majesty s dockyard , where the an i accessible cli , bare of vegetatio , n interallied comma ders met every morn forming a series of rugged precipices . ing to arrange the escort of convoys . Th e town of Gibraltar can be roughly Th e naval base hospital was at Glen divided into two parts$ North Town and i T n T . S . n Rocky , near the British m litary hospital outh ow North ow is a commercial ’ C nd re u The n $ . . . . a sta enlisted me s M A district , and is by far the more important . l n at N 0. C . e S ra t were situated 7 o lege Lane It has two parall l streets , Main treet and ffi -T There was an average of 3 1 5 o cers and Irish own S treet . Back of these on the e nlisted me n attached to th e ships and slope of the hill the houses are built tier o n

n me n . S T base . E listed attached to the base tier outh own , or Rosia , is strictly a in H k d n i acco mmo were billeted the Windmill ill Barrac s resi e t al district , although it Ad n n t . behi d the sig al sta ion dates the miralty quarters and stores. P n A Th e d ublic moving pictures , exhibiti g mer streets are ark and narrow , but

fi fla . The is ican lms , as well as concerts by the g clean one business thoroughfare

d e A S , ship ban , w re given in the lameda $see Main treet which runs the leng th of the ’ T page Th e ships baseball teams played town . his street includes three former $ C m S . a league cha pionship on the football field streets Waterport , hurch , and outhport d A H E i P n Ed near the seaplane she . Vice dmiral . uropa Main Road beg ns at ri ce ’ Hi ’ G c o rne r 'o f S . G n . N . nd s ra t , R , comma ing Majesty s ward s ate at the northeast the G i d A m d G n n dockyard at ibraltar , was sen or allie la e a ardens $see page exte di g ffi e x o cer present . southward to a large lighthouse at the t re mit in y of the pen sula . PL N OF CIT$ AND ITS ENVIR NS A O Just outside the south gate is the Traf The G C n Bay of ibraltar is in the form of a algar emetery , the resti g place of many ’ n an d . n The horseshoe , 7 miles lo g 5 miles wide who fell in Nelso s great battle . The d e m w A d d harbor is sheltered to the west and mo ern c etery , here our merican ea and d o h o F o e n t e t . south by breakwaters , by the Rock to are interre , is situat d N r h r nt

Fo u rteen G I B R A L TA R

Th e population of Gibraltar is made up to a great extent o f . th o se attached to the mi Th e litary and naval service . remainder consists of S paniards and a few orientals ; English is spoken throughout the city and the environs . THE GALLERI ES

HE so - called Galleries are G the great sight of ibraltar . They consist of a series of passages tunn eled through the strata on the northern d si e of the Rock . There are no other mili tary excav ation s in the $ G world that equal these alleries , which The o ld Mo o rish Castle comprise two ranges or tiers$ the upper or T THE S C ST . RI Windsor , and the lower or Union hese MOO H A LE S can be reached . from Main treet by Bell Above the artillery barracks are the re n ffi i o C 2 A . D . La e $opposite the post o ce) , and by mains a Moorish astle built in 74 ,

. n n A s stairs to the artillery barracks the oldest buildi g i Gibraltar . a part of The G it Union alleries are open to the public this castle is used for a prison , can only

n S . from su rise to sunset , but no more than two be visited by pecial permit If a pass is fi k n it t parties of fteen each will be ta e through obtainable , however , is well wor h the visi ’ P o n and the galleries at any time . ers ns wishi g tor s attention , as the old harem state to visit th em must enter their nam es in the apartments are amo ng the most interesting ‘ l o o C n in h . book kept by the M rish ast e Guard . bits of a tiquity t is part of the world

Fifteen G I B R A L TA R

ALAMEDA GARDENS HE Alameda Gardens are beautifully situated be tween th e British and h n Spanis town s . Luxuria t and tropical vegetation produces a horticultural e ffect which would be hard G 0 to surpass . eraniums 1 feet in height and heliotrope in profusion add beauty to the sc ene and fill the air with P ff fi fragrance . epper , co ee , and g trees

flourish here also . A n n rustic bridge , fa tastic floral desig s , and a whale jaw arch contribute to the d n T i landscape gar eni g . oward even ng the military band plays here and the gardens become th e center of the social activ ity of

Gibraltar . THE BARRAC$ S OF GIBRALTAR Pictu re s$ u e walk in Alame da Gar de ns The l mi itary barracks , naval hospital , and the town of Rosia are south of the C Th k Moorish astle . e barrac s of We$ A G lameda ardens . lin t o n F n $ g ro t , ings Bastion , and Orange Gibraltar is the scene of man y and Bastion are no longer occupied by troops S c the G pacious barracks , among whi h are but are used as storehouse s . On unners ’ C e T S t . s P as mates , own Range , Jago , arade there is a barracks building for

S ixteen G I B R A L TA R

ffi o u . S British o cers In the th District are, s o s and South Barrack , R ia Barracks , Europa

Barracks . THE MAR$ ET

th e 1 o f A 1 8 6 N 7th pril , 7 , the P rince of Wales $later $ ing Edward VII) laid the corner stone of the n prese t market , which is commodious and well man

aged . Meat is imported G from alicia , Southern

S and $ pain , Morocco the better grades from A F im ustralia . rom Morocco also come and mense quantities of poultry eggs , the former transported in curious cylind rical n baskets or tubes of cane work , the e ds of which are secured by cord nettings . THE EXCHAN GE AND LIBRAR$ Commercial S quare is the only commer cial d n G buil i g in ibraltar . It is operated n n by an excha ge committee , elected an ually An e nte rtainme nt in the Ce nte r M arke t from among the inhabitants ; it was founded n 1 8 1 was and l by volu tary subscriptions in 7 and library reading room , in which trave ers

O A 1 8 1 8 . n n e publicly pened in ugust , It co tai s $ specially those interested in commerce ) l are always we come .

S eventeen G I B R A L TA R

T e THE GARRISON LIBRAR$ his has become British property once mor , F ’ however . On North ront , between Devil s HE garrison library on Go v T C owe oad nd the ace ou se , there is a ’ r R a R r e rno r s P arade is the finest large athletic field used for almost every institution of its kind in any P fi type of game . ermission to use this eld n of the E glish possessions . must be obtained through the Go vernor: F n 1 C n ou ded in 793 by olo el Swimming beaches may be found at Rosia n Dri kwater , it grew so rap A P on the tlantic side of the e ninsula . idly and p ro v e d itse lf so val u able that the great English THEATRE RO$ AL n P fi n statesma , William itt , nanced the erectio The Theatre Royal has been almost bu ildin which of the present g , was completed n mm entirely rebuilt a d remodeled . It acco o 8 Th e e in 1 04 . library contains at the pr sent dates about persons and is one of the time nearly volumes . e i G chi f places of enterta nment in ibraltar . THE ASSEMBL$ ROOMS THE ROC$ AND ITS ENVIRONS The A 1 88 ssembly Rooms , erected in 4 , A A d contain a ballroom , a movable stage for road $lower than the one to lame a nd e G r a 8. s theatrical pe formances concerts , r ardens) skirting the great dry docks , naval n tau rant s ffi , , with nece sary o ces and kitchen . statio and barracks leads to a battery of - A fine . A A rain water tank of gallons capac ity big guns view of frica and the n The i surmounts the buildi g . east w ng con Mediterranean can be obtained near the light o P tains the lodge rooms of the Freemason s of house n Europa oint . G n n As ibraltar , by whom the e terprise was begu . the west side of the Rock descends n sheer to the sea , it has bee impossible to con RECREATIONAL FACILITIES struct a roadway , and one must pass through F F n n in d During the war ootball ield No . 1 $built the tow agai order to reach the north si e . on reclaimed ground on the we st shore) was On the road the visitor passes a Jewish n n A A in co sta t use by the merican cemetery with its flat tombstones . bove

E ighteen

G I B R A L TA R

e e ne t t o f att mpting to p ra e all these caves , but up to the present time many of the i n v n ne m nor o es ha e remai ed u xplored . THE MON$ E$ S

HE monkeys and apes liv ing in caves in the Rock are among the chief diversions T of the place . hese ani mals are carefully pro te cte d by law ; they are fed A and by the British rmy , are under the protection of ffi k he an o cer . Li e t storks in Hollan d and n the ibis in Egypt , they e joy a complete T immunity from molestation . hey may be seen on the western face of the Rock , par ticu larl i T y when an east wind is blow ng . hey liv e chiefly upon food given them by the sol diers , the sweet roots of the palmetto trees , the products of garden s and orchards of the vicinity and even the pantries of the resi deuces . It is common practice for house The Mo nke y cave s keepers to screen their windows against them . T A . S n d d n hese apes are of frican species It pa ish si e of the Me iterra ean , but it is uncertain as to how they reached the is believ ed t hat they have inhabited the

I Twenty G I B R A L TA R

k fo r m e n e k n Roc any c turi s , ta i g up their abode here when the peninsula was still o n i the A o c n ected w th frican c ast . EUROPA POINT

U R O P A P o i n t $A n c i en t Leon) forms th e southern end o f the Rock of Gib ral n n a f n ru n tar , prese ti g ro t ning northwest and south 6 east 00 yards . At the e e o f xtr mity the point , on c ff 8 e a li 9 fe t high , is Vic T 6 1 fe . Th toria ower , et in height e light on v e fo r 1 8 this tower is isibl mile s . Lo o king acro ss the Bay fro m Gibraltar to Alge ciras THE HARBOR G h e o ibraltar is a free port . T exp rts Th e harbo r of Gibraltar is protected by n e C i clud wool , lead , and copper . ottons , e e $ three br akwaters , or mol s New or S outh n and n a re m o woole s , wi es i p rted . o e e C m Mole , North M l or Old Mol , and o mer c ial h G C S or Detac ed Mole . Old Mole was con AL E IRA n n structed in the fourtee th ce tury . The Northwest of Gibraltar just across the k o f th e m doc s the New Mole are used by bay is Alge c iras . S te a e rs ply b e twee n the B and v h n . T e e tw o e h e ritish foreig na ies Wat rport sev ral tim e s a day . T fare is 2 % f t h Whar is e general landing place fo r pas e se se e a o n p tas $ p ge 34) r u d trip , a half e n e and e nt v s g r m rcha essels . h o n e e fo r u n ur bei g r quir d the r .

Tw en ty-On e G I B R A L TA R

' Th e little Spanish c ity of Algeciras was brought into the limelight in 1 906 through the international conferen ce held there for ff the consideration of Moroccan a airs . It i believed that the seeds of the Great War n were sown in this Algeciras Co ference .

F nc e G n A - H n ra , erma y , ustria u gary , Bel m S G B r n h giu , pain , reat itai , the Net er n P S e and la ds , ortugal , Russia , wed n , the h United States were represented . In t is c onfe re nce the control over Morocco de n sired by German y went to Fra ce . It is said that this decision was largely due to the n n G n and i flue ce of reat Britai , that , as a e $ n n r sult , the aiser swore ve gea ce against the nation that had brought about the fru s A n t ratio n of his plans . ustria was the o ly nation that supporte d Ge rmany in th e Alge Dignity in rags c iras Conference . n k T a d f 2 . During the summ e r se aso n Alge ciras is brea ast , pesetas here are several

n h e e n . a popular wateri g place . T principal r staura ts in the principal square e i C n n s Th hot l is the Re na risti a ear the outh e train schedule to Madrid , S eville , e e n e nd o f the pi r . Rates as rec tly quoted an d Cadiz c an be obtained from th e hotel in 1 0 and 1 e E A f e n n are 5 p setas per day , uropean lgeciras, as it is rom h re that co nectio s

an ne 8 nc n th e n n . pl ; din r , pesetas ; lu heo , 5 pes with most of inla d poi ts are made

Twen ty Two G I B R A L TA R

C $ THE ST T WN IN SP IN ADI , OLDE O A ROM Algeciras it is possible k to ta e a train , a motor bus , or o ne of the daily steamers C e to adiz , the nearest larg h town in S pain . T e train

trip occupies 1 2 hours . Th e population of Cadiz - day is about It is the oldest c ity in Spain $ was c e le b rat ing its 400th anniversary when Rom e was H H H nn n . fou ded ere amilcar and a ibal , C n the great arthagi ian generals , equipped their armies for their attempt to overthrow Rome in the days of Fabius Maximus two centuries before the Christian era . It was from here also that many of the mariners fi x A a who rst e plored merica s iled . Cadiz enjoyed her greatest era of pros p e rity immediately after the discov ery of A rise in be e f Am erica , as she then became the chief port The n ffi A city is remarkable for its elega ce for the New World tra c . lthough it and n in A m ’ clea l ess . fa ous writer has said importance began to wane when Spain s t h e fi n n n that most tti g description of the port colo ial possessio s began to diminish , its ” commerce reached low- water mark follow is the word white written with a white he co v ing the destruction of S panish trade with pencil on blue paper . T houses are C and P n h uba o rto Rico as a result of the ered with freque t coats of w itewash , so n - A Spa ish merican War . that from a distance they see m to be made

Twen ty Three G I B R A L TA R

of plaster of P aris . Hundreds of little n t he towers , risi g above flat roofed houses , produce the impression of min arets against the oriental skyline . The principal street of Cadiz is Calle de Duque de Te u tan which runs southeast P n H from the laza de la Co stitucion . ere and o n the Calle C o lu me la are t he best shops e its of the city . Cadiz is cel brated for

and n . guitars , castanets , fa s The best view of the town and of the T Vir ia ocean is to be had from the orre del g , a watchtower from which all passing ships n ’ n are sig alled . It is in the ce ter of the town on the C alle Sacremento and may be visited upon application . THE CAPITAL OF MOROCCO

T is only a short trip of 3 2 mile s by steamer from Mo rro can mise ry G T ib ra l ta r t o angi e r , A n k . the Moroccan capital , Mail Li e , sail once a wee rrangements o ne where may get a real are easily made for a special trip . m n n o n t he gli pse of orie tal life . Ta gier is picturesquely situated H o ne S teamers sail from this hilly side of the Bay of Tangier . ere t T T fin n inte rmin por on uesdays , hurs ds perhaps a more i teresting d and . . T e n and n an days , S aturdays at a m h gli g of European orie tal customs

l nne an in t he . larger steamers , such as those of the Roya ma rs than in y other port world

Twenty-Fo u r G I B R A L TA R

The major portion of the population is

Mohammedan . Of the remaining , about o ne - half are Moroccan Jews ; the others are chiefly S paniards . Most of the people seen on the streets are men . Women of the v F better class ne er go out except on ridays , w n he they visit other women , and on a cer tain day every year when they go to the mosque . Tangier is surrounded by an old wall and with picturesque gates , surmounted at

. The intervals by towers kasba , or citadel , v rises abo e the city proper . The n n v arrow , u e en streets in the old The Po rt and To wn o f Tangie r fro m th e $e tty part of the town present a vivid scene of h v . T e oriental life noisy crowds re eal a burden ; their approach is heralded by cries $ ” . The , great variety of types solemn Moors of balek $look out) . bu ru ms stalking along in brilliant , yellow The Main Street of Tangier begins just h n slippers , brig t turba s or fezes , are elbowed n C m i d n beyo d the usto house , w n i g up the f n an d . by Jews in black ca ta s fezes hill to the New Market on the west and to The houses are of the Spanish type with the S occo de Barra $the outer market) on n h . T e d i terior courts oorway of a Moorish the southeast . It ends at the S quare of n k house is protected merely by a curtai ; the Blac smiths . when the owner wishes privacy he leav es a The chief sights of Tangier may be seen i o n in slipper outside as a sign that his curta n Main S treet , the markets , and about

no t . n T must be raised the kasba , or citadel . Su day and hurs i n Most of the streets are mpassible for day are market days , when groups of i ter wheeled vehicles ; mules serve as beasts of este d onlookers crowd about the jugglers

Twenty-Five G I B R A L TA R

and snake charmers ; the ev er - present beg n v gars pass through soliciti g alms , and abo e the ordinary noises can be heard the din of an the fakirs d the calls of the market men . n Indeed , the o ly place where crowding and tumult cease is at the very center of the market where the patron saint is enthroned in the sanctuary . Beyond the Great Mosque and the small Socco $inner market) is the S quare of the The Blacksmiths . North Gate opens on Marshan Road leading to the kasba or citadel . This was built in the fifteenth century . Stand ing on the highest point of the town , the citadel commands a wonderful V an iew of the Bay d the S trait of Gibraltar. Among its fine Moorish buildings are the P S alace of the ultan , a mosque , a prison , F . as the treasury , and a garden rom the e t ern gate of the kasba a footpath descends Ho me s and pu blic bu ildings$ Tangier i to the town ; the view en route is one of the The C H C i H ecil otel , the ont nental otel , n $ great sights of Ta gier . and the P ension de France are patronized G a uides may be secured at all the hotels by the English nd Americans . in T n 0 An a gier at from 5 to 1 pesetas a day . excellent bathing beach and com Besides pointing out the most important mo dio u s bathhouses will be found o n the d v h P t e G . n places , they will irect tra elers to best l a za ran de S t r a ge r s s h o u l d no t a $ c o fl h o s c f s and e e u e s . attempt to enter mosques or Mohammed an

T en - w ty S 121:

G I B R A L TA R

o f ind araxa ters ; Boudoir the Sultana L , ov erlooking an orange garden ; Moorish Baths ; Hall of the Camas ; Hall of the Am bassad o r ; Hall of the P alace of the Wailie s ; F Ancient C hapel ; P alace of C harles the ifth . Then the party will cross the great square the o r n to Vela Watchtower , whe ce there is a magnificen t prospect of the plain of ” G n h M ra ada . T e Last S igh of the oor is another interesting feature of the Alhambra .

-T NOTE . here are gypsies living in a n A n r rock caves t Gra ada . gypsy co ce t h may often be arranged at t e hotels . SEVILLE A ge ne ral vie w o f Tangie r 80 EVILLE , located about Ca z A c miles northeast of di , the rabs , in the eighth entury , it reached may be reached by boat a population of It was one of the or train from Gibraltar via first points to which C olumbus went seeking ' C 1 2 adiz in about hours . Spanish aid for his proposed voyage of dis c o v e r o ne fi Seville was a place of y , and was of the rst cities to great importance during profit commercially by the opening of trade t he n later years of Roma with the new world . dominion ; it was the birthplace o f three of One of the largest and noblest cathedrals ’ $ H n a i o t i Tr n . Rome s greatest emperors adria , the w rld is in Seville It con a ns the an and T n e n C C u $ , heodosius . It became the capital mo um t to hristopher ol mbus , whose of southern S pain d uring the time when the remains were brought from Havana in 1 899 . nd and G h The n fi n the Va als the ot s held sway . Under mag i ce t tower was erected by

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Moors as an observ atory and later co n n verted into a bell tower by the Spa iards , its who did not know of real purpose . Among the man y points of interest in this beautiful old city a re the P laza de T n n n s orros , the sce e of ma y Spa i h bull fights where spectators can be acco m mo d ate d T T , and the orre del Oro $ ower of Gold) ; the P alace of S an Telmo and the great tobacco facto ry employing thousands n Th e of girls are 1also well worth seei g . t A $ M. C . . . . . A is situated at S ugustine II h P a r ho T e secretary is astor Emilio C r e . CIT$ OF MALAGA I S important city is situ ated at the head of Malaga 60 i Bay , m les east of G and u ibraltar , is b ilt close to the sea at the foot of The high mounta ins . chief A mme o f Granada, Spa n, no rthwe t fro m buildings are the Ca the gli i s G ne ralife ’ P e dral , Bishop s alace , sev ficatio ns nk e f eral churches , a college of medicine and and castles , fla d by lo ty e The surg ry , and a customhouse . building mountains , can be seen at a distance of 2 Th e most worthy of notice is the cathedral with about 5 miles . castle standing on the The i alfaro 2 0 v . G br a spire rising 7 feet abo e the bay summit of Monte de , 5 5 5 feet ’ i an r picturesque ru ns of Malaga s cient fo ti high , may be recognized by its large square G I B R A L TA R

The tower and white embattled walls . cathedral clock tower is also a conspicuous beacon . Malaga is easily reached from Gibraltar by boat or by rail from Algeciras in about 2 % hours . It is also a point of communi cation with ev ery part of S pain . GIBRALTAR ’S NEIGHBORING TOWNS X C E L L E N T opportunities to vi sit S pani sh cities and the lesser towns are afforded by sailboat or automobile trips from Gi

b r a l t a r a nd A lgeci ras . Some of these neighboring : C r o u towns are astella , p p lation Jimena , population Los a o u Barrios , population S Ronque , p p T lation and arifa , population NS OF TR VEL MEA A Th u r o h rt e in A ham ra Granada S a e Co t f t e My l s l b , , p in Gibraltar has a good steamship service F v . to the nearby ports . S teamers lea e daily Malaga to Bobadilla rom here there is a C S i . fo r Tangier ; there are two daily steamers to railroad to Madrid , ev lle , and adiz A T A F lgeciras . here is a railroad from lge rom Malaga there is also a branch line to The i ciras to the central S panish cities . rail Granada ; from Algeciras there s a line A C A i line from lgeciras joins the main line from to adiz and Seville . great sav ng can

Thirty G I B R A L TA R

be eff e cted by buying kilo meter trav eling o ffi c upons at the Gibraltar booking o ce . Befo re the railro ad connections with C v adiz were completed in the se enties , communication between the Rock and interior points was by horseback and by pack trains . Of greater importance than the opening of this road was the opening Al - of the geciras Bobadilla Railway in 1 890 . Due to these improvements innumerable places in Spain are now within easy reach v n of the tra eler , although horses and do keys n are still used at certain points along the li e . HUNTIN G IN SPAIN OT many years ago the vicinity of Gibralta r was

open to every sportsman . To - day , however , the hunter is conf ronted al most everyw here by the sign Cote ” $preserve) or Om ame nte d do o wa to the Co u rt o f L o n A h m $ ” r y i s, l a bra, A o C e rro d o c te y $pre Granada S a n , p i served and enclo sed) . Licenses to hunt in S C G is c - pain may be secured from the ivil ibraltar a se ond class license , costing 0 Governor at C adiz ; the S panish Consul at 3 pesetas . It is often necessary to obtain o Gibraltar can als arrange these licenses . a written permit from the owner of the The o usual license btained by people land on which one wishes to hunt . G I B R A L TA R

The n v s n o ne Spanish hu ters ha e alway guard Directory , is to co tract with some at ed carefully the mountain regions whe re the Tangier to carry out all arrangements at so e and n d n ib x , roe deer , wild bear abou d , but much a day , inclu i g dragoman , cook , n n and the marshes and flooded ground frequented muleteers , tra sport , te ts , camp equip n T e d n by British sportsmen were often disregarded me t . h cost of such an expe itio for by them . The best hunting seasons can two people should be approximately £ 2 $two d Fo r not always be estimated with accuracy , as poun s) or a day each . three i an i d . r n they vary with the ra ny dry seasons people or mo e , it should be less propor

' As v and n many of the marshes ha e been closed , tion , as the same cook serva ts could G fin in the people of ibraltar d it necessary to be used a slightly larger party . It is f ‘ ’ look for game at some distance , o ten in the advisable to take a head dragoman who

‘ ” a h vicinity of C diz . T e Gibraltar directory speaks Moorish and Spanish . -I t has full details of this subject . suggests When trav eling in Morocco it is always any respectable nativ e of the Rock as a necessary to Obtain from the authorities at

n . A suitable guide for a hu ting party man Tangier a military escort whose presen ce of this type will be of great adv antage to is a sign to the tribesman that the party is n and n n the sportsman as an i terpreter to fur u der governme t protection . Of recent n nf ish necessary i ormation about game laws , years it has been considered unwise for P f d d v d d . . n n etc ro essional gui es shoul be a oi e travelers to go far i to the cou try . HUNTING IN MOROCCO No large game except wild pigs is found in Morocco in the districts accessible to the H n n in S h n u ti g Morocco is more expensive ordinary traveler . mall game s ooti g , k S n a . than in pain , since hu ters must t e tents however , is remarkably good Barbary Th n h . e t e with them sport is often excelle t , partridge $a species closely allied to

- d n . T re d n in however , and worth a ded expe se rips European legged partridge) is fou d

‘ d ani d n A o o d lan are usually ma e on horseback with pack extraor i ary numbers . very g p $ B mals . y far the best way to organize an is to engage a Spanish sportsman at Tangier ” x d n n o G th n e . e pe itio i to Mor cco , says the ibraltar to accompa y party G I B R A L TA R

CENTERS OF INFORMATION N FO R MATI ON regarding trips or other matters of interest to travelers may be obtained at the auto o fli c e s mobile , south of the v A ri er in lgeciras , or from T C S homas ook ons , on i S G . Ma n treet , ibraltar Oth e r ce nters of information in Gibraltar th e A are ssembly Rooms , the banks , and the Am e rican Consulate located on P rince Ed

. 6d c ward Road For $six pen e) a copy , the monthly o flicial directory may be pur ’ at H ffi G chased eadquarters O ce , overnor s l ’ A . B e au and s S . Lane , or at , Main treet

CABS

Th u r n at S e v e S a n Cab stands will be found at Waterpo rt e b ll i g ill , p i G C S Ca h ate , ommercial quare , and t edral T LS n HO E S quare . It is well to arra ge th e price with th e An n Th e n driver before starting . om ibus three most importa t hotels in 1 n C G th e H C leaves every 5 mi utes from ommercial ibraltar are otel Bristol , athedral h S G H an H C S P . T e d quare to the New Mole arade fare quare ; rand otel the otel ecil ,

2 t S e . d w o n . is $ pe ce) , about four cents Main tr et

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RESTAURANTS AND COFFEE HOUSES Th e most widely known restaurants are : C f$ o n C S e a Universal hurch tre t , La Victoria A on Main Street , the ssembly Rooms at the A am and e l eda , the Royal Bar , opposit the

Exchange . MONE$ R I TI SH currency is legal

tender in Gibraltar . Span ish money is often used in

the shops , but at the post office and other govern mental departments Brit ish curren c y alon e is ac c e t Th e p e d . f o l l o w i n g table is prepared as a guide for tourists not familiar with the comparat ive values of S h A : panis , English , and merican currency SPANISH 5 c e nt mo e ce e u a a o u 1 c e n i s pi $ ls b t t. 1 e e ta e ua a o u 20c n p s $ ls b t e ts . 5 e e ta e ce e u a a o u 1 p s pi $ ls b t $ . A fo re st o f co lu mn s in the Mo o rish part o f th e Cath e dra o u Co rd S a n ENGLISH l M s$ e , o va, p i 1 e nn e u al a o u t 2 c n p y $ s b e ts . F 1 20 n 1 h n e u a a o u t 25 ce n , , E s illi g $ ls b ts . In ebruary 9 the nglish pou d was 1 o u nd e u a a o u i n p $ ls b t worth and the shill ng 1 8% ce ts .

T v e i f hese values , howe r , fluctuate . S nce Reliable in ormation in such matters th e n war , these coins have been belo might be obtained at the American Co su

MEMORANDUM Th e se blank page s sho u ld be u se d to no te ite ms o f inte r e st which yo u will w ant to r e me mbe r

Thir ty-S ix