Hair Color of Hair Coloring Superlighteners ß Light and the Law of Color ß When and How to Use Them Ê 1

technicalbook Index

Ê Introduction Ê 3. Basic Principles Ê 5. Correctors and to hair color of Hair Coloring Superlighteners ß Light and the law of color ß When and how to use them Ê 1. Permanent Hair Color ß Color theory without ammonia from OW Ê 6. Hair Color ß Hcolor, Hcatalyst and Htone Ê 4. The world of Hcolor ß Hair Color ß Series and shades Ê 2. Hair Structure Ê 7. The Developers ß Hair structure ß The Developers ß Melanin and color saturation ß Porosity and pH Index

Ê 8. Application Factors Ê 10. Ammonia-Free Ê 12. Hypercolor for Perfect Hair Color Bleaching ß A new dimension of ß Application techniques ß Bleaching techniques development times

Ê 9. Methods and Special Ê 11. Hsystem Ê 13. Faq Applications ß At the Service ß FAQs ß Special Applications of perfect color Ê 14. Glossary ß Glossary Introduction to hair color

Coloring hair is not a recent “need”, but it is a human desire that is part of our Introduction history. The use of dyes was a frequent practice among Egyptians, Romans and Greeks. All dyes were of vegetable origin, such as henna, indigo, saf- to hair fron and chamomile. Adopting complicated techniques and bearing inconve- niences and risks, peoples of the past subjected themselves to treatments color that were essentially effective in the hope of transforming the color of their natural hair.

During the Renaissance, hair dyeing procedures were often similar to the processes used for dyeing materials. The simplest way was to sit in the sun Possessing a thorough knowledge with an infusion of chamomile spread over the head but with face covered to of hair color means to embrace a prevent the skin from becoming tanned, which would have been an undesi- whole world of theory, experience, rable effect. Other methods involved combining herbs, acids and sometimes fashion, analyses of physiological metallic salts, which lightened the hair to the point of altering its structure. Of aspects and other considerations course, the so-called “collateral effects” of these processes were not even regarding personal identity. taken in consideration. This handbook seeks to be a valuable tool for the hair stylist who bases With the passing of time and changes in customs there was an increase in his profession and success on this knowledge and discovery in hair coloring techniques; the steady pace of ex- body of knowledge. perimentation, clear proof of a strong aesthetic desire to alter the natural color In the following pages, Rolland will of both men’s and women’s hair, encouraged further research. This process address hair color concepts through of study led to success in the creation of products we currently use today. the presentation of Hcolor, the ammonia-free ORGANIC WAY color In addition to the need to cover grey hair, there was as desire to change the system, a line of products that allow color of the hair to be in vogue or to satisfy a personal desire. In the past, hair stylists around the world to offer customers an enjoyable, the choice of hair color was conditioned by social class, cultural norms and safe technical service also by technological limitations. Although fashion influences society by such that gives perfect results. means as fashion shows and mass media, we are free to express our per- sonality by making choices that best reflect our identity. Learning the secrets of colorimetry and knowing how to making the best possible diagnosis of the situation allow today’s hair styling professionals to express the highest calibre of their professionalism.

Guaranteeing quality means eliminating the effect of surprise. It is essential to be fully knowledgeable on the subtle variations from one hair base to a- nother, and on the enormous difference that these variations can play in the final result.

This handbook has the aim of enriching the knowledge of those who, by choosing Rolland Organic Way Hcolor, have selected a hair color line that expresses the desire of customers and salon professionals for a different, enjoyable hair coloring process thanks to its no-ammonia content. In the next few chapters, we will take an in-depth analysis of this complete, innovative, and high-performance line that changes the concept of hair color produced and perceived by the customer and the salon professional. Organic Way with Hcolor boosts the creative spirit in the salon and ensures customers a well- ness that derives from the use of an ammonia-free product. In addition to the presentation of the line, this handbook serves as a valuable guide to color theory and an essential tool to guarantee the customer a perfect result.

Hcolor, Hcatalyst and Htone

Hcolor is the color with permanent oxidation without ammonia and it is marketed as a scented cream in 100 ml tubes. There are a good 89 different colors in the color chart divided in 19 series: a variety of shades that distinguishes this permanent hair color without ammo- 1 nia from its market competitors. Such a variety allows for a huge colorimetric range due to the fact that the shades can be mixed together. This means that any coloring procedure fashion “dictates” or the client requires can be carried out in the salon.

Its more delicate formula significantly reduces the risks of sensitization and respiratory and skin allergies. With Hcolor the technical procedure is Permanent hair pleasant and safe. It’s delicate, pleasing perfume and the lack of ammonia guarantees excellent color without air quality and breathability in the salon.

Ammonia With the unpleasant smells gone the client perceives the color treatment from Ow as different from any previous experience of traditional permanent color treatments.

Hcolor

“Hcolor is the color with permanent oxidation without ammonia and it is marketed as a scented cream in 100 ml tubes. There are a good 89 different colors in the color chart divided in 19 series: a variety of shades that distinguishes this permanent hair color without ammonia from its market competitors” Hcatalyst

Htone Hcolor, Hcatalyst and Htone

Hcolor gives the hair more shine than traditional coloring. It guarantees 100% white hair coverage with long lasting results and its bleaching power is 3 tones and up to 4 tones with the superlighteners.

Hcolor’s special formula uses ethanolamine instead of ammonia. Ethanolamine is a component with a different physico-chemical structure to ammonia. Its molecular weight is higher than that of ammonia and because of this evaporation of amines does not occur, thus unpleasant smells in the salon and olfactory intolerance due to the breathing in of ammonia hydrates are prevented. This ammonia replacing molecule is larger and so stays and acts on the surface of the cuticle causing less damage to the cortex. Thanks to this substance and to Hcolor’s particular formula, which was designed in the Rolland Laboratories to be able to guarantee the best possible performance as far as the hair fibre is concerned, the hair pH undergoes less destabilization compared to a traditional ammonia- based hair color. Hcolor maintains the hair pH lower (at least one percentage point is gained compared to ammonia-based formula) and therefore proves less damaging to the hair fibre, with less desquamation of the cuticle.

Exclusive high quality micro pigments guarantee stable, long-lasting results but also intense, vibrant shades. Each color is rich in pigments and this allows intense and extremely attractive highlights (from a cosmetic point of view) to be created. Thanks to its stable formula there is no need for thickening agents. After the product has been opened there is no risk of oxidation, which can, however, occur with gel or oil-based formulas.

Ethanolamine

“Hcolor’s special formula uses Ethanolamine instead of ammonia. Ethanolamine is a component with a different physico-chemical structure to ammonia. ”

The formula contains organic Perilla Oil extremely rich in Omega 3 and flavonoids boasting antioxidant and anti-allergy properties. In order to leave the hair soft and extraordinarily healthy the mix has been Perilla Oil enriched with the precious Cotton Proteins for nourishing and reinvigorating the very depths of the hair shaft.

Hcolor needs to be mixed with the developers Hcatalyst and Htone following the ratio of 1 part color cream to 1 and 1/2 part developer. A dilution at a ratio of 1 + 1 is recommended in order to fully emphasize its covering power and at the same time enhance shades.

With Hcolor the hairstylist won’t change his or her hairstyling rituals because it’s free of the risks associated with the application of laborious formulas.

Cotton Hcatalyst is a perfumed cream developer, which is perfectly stabilised according to the volumes given: 20, 30 and 40 volumes. Hcatalyst guarantees perfect viscosity with the color cream. Htone is an extra delicate milk toner designed to color and to enhance highlights and lowlights.

It has extremely low volumes and it is specifically designed for Hcolor tone on tone coloring (when the base color is not to be changed,) or used in greater dilutions to tone highlights and lowlights in order to counter yellowish hues or to enhance previous highlights. For Hcolor tone on tone coloring it should be diluted at a ratio of 1 part Hcolor + 1 and 1/2 parts Htone. 3 Hair structure

In biological terms, hair is a filiform structure of keratin that originates in the epidermis. Like the fingernails, hair performs an important protective function and can be considered an appendage of the skin. Keratin, while not living, is connected to the 2 vital processes of the skin and the entire body. Being fully familiar with the structure of the hair, its porosity, texture and pH is basic to achieving a positive result in the hair coloring service.

Hair is made up of approximately 70% keratin, with the remaining 30% composed of water, lipids, mineral salts, vitamins and carbohydrates. The Hair The stem is the part of the hair that grows above the skin’s surface and is divided into the roots, lengths and ends.

The ends generally has a great level of porosity, affects the capacity for absorption of the color and the reflection of light. The lengths are keratinized and usually do not have a high level of porosity.

The area of new growth is the least keratinized and is not porous. In this area, a strand of hair with a normal structure absorbs color easily. In addition, the body temperature of the scalp favours all types of hair coloring.

The root itself is the whole part of the hair situated under the surface. Here, protein cells are keratinized and give origin to the hair before it reaches the epidermis. The active cells continually produce protein cells that are pushed upwards along the follicle. The production of cells is constant and causes the hair to grow at a rate of 1 to 1.5 cm per month. The thickness of the hair is a characteristic that is genetically determined.

Hcolor

Europa 0,04 - 0,08 mm Sud Europa 0,06 - 0,10 mm Asia 0,08 - 0,12 mm

Observing the hair stem under a mi- croscope, we can see its composition of three layers: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla.

4 Hair structure

the cuticle

THE CUTICLE The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair. This scaly, protective layer can be felt by passing the fingers along the stem, from the end towards the root. You may note a certain resistance and roughness not felt by going in the opposite direction (from the root towards the ends). The cuticle’s surface is made up of a combination of overlapping scales. These layers of scales are colorless, transparent and absorbent and allow the colored pigment on the inside of the cortex to manifest itself. Fine, light-colored hair has very few scaly layers, whereas coarse and dark hair has a higher quantity of compact layers. The overlapping (6 to 10 layers) of these layers determines the thickness of the cuticle and, together with the cortex, the diameter of the hair itself. When hair is healthy, the scales adhere perfectly, the cortex is protected, and there is a minimum dispersion of water. However, when hair is in an altered state, the scales detach and hair appears opaque, dry and porous. The cuticle is what gives the reflection of light to hair and its manageability. To achieve a permanent change of natural color, the layer of the cuticle must be slightly swelled to allow the precursors to spread throughout the cortex where they are deposited and oxidized. Because it contains no ammonia, Hcolor reduces re-swelling to a level that allows the penetration of the precursors, but also reduces to a minimum the damage to the cuticle layer. An additional barrier is provided by the Cotton Proteins contained in the formula, which offer nourishment and protection and assure that the hair stem stays intact and the scales on the surface are contiguous.

The aggression of environmental factors which loosen the cohesive bond between proteins and lipids (due to a process called intracellular peroxidase) is diminished. Moreover, the formation of free radicals due to the exposure to UV rays is inhibited thanks to the presence of Perilla Oil and its strong anti-oxidant and anti-allergic action for the skin. To render the effects of hair coloring long-lasting, the stem must be closed back and smoothed in order to achieve the desired shine and softness. The less the hair is swelled during the depositing of the precursors, the easier it will be to close back the layer of the cuticle later on. Since the cuticle is responsible for the porosity of the hair, it performs the important function of barrier, determining the speed with which the technical product penetrates.

the cortex

THE CORTEX Situated between the cuticle and the medulla, the cortex is the intermediate layer of the hair. The cortex is the most vital and strongest part of the hair and makes up 80% of the mass of each stem. It is the most important part of the hair trichologically and chemically speaking and is responsible for its mechanical properties: elasticity, flexibility, rigidity and torsional resistance. Not only is it the layer that contains the melanin that determines hair color, it also contains numerous quantities of interlaced fibres of another protein, keratin. These micro and macro fibrils (bundles of fibres) run parallel and are the component that gives them elasticity and flexibility to the hair. Granules of melanin pigment and empty spaces settle in varying densities and types between the microfibrils. These are the internal structures of the of the cortex cells (fusiform) that make up the cortex shaft and that due to the absorption and reflection of the light determine the shade of hair color. Some pigments and empty spaces can also be situated inside the macro fibrils as well. To give hair permanent color, the precursors of the color must be introduced into the cortex, where they are activated and remain trapped.

5 Hair structure

the medulla

THE MEDULLA The medulla is the innermost layer of the hair and is made up of a structure similar to keratin, which acts as a support to a column of large disjointed cells, often distanced from each other by empty spaces that are only slightly pigmented. This substance is principally “soft” keratin and has no specific form or function. Little is known of this part, aside from the fact that spaces exist within the fibres. There is also hair where the medulla is insubstantial, it may even be absent in fine hair. It carries out no specific function when technical treatments are performed.

the diameter

The diameter of the hair and its thickness (fine, normal, coarse). The hair can be fine, normal or coarse (resistant) and can be pigmented (naturally or artificially) or non-pigmented (white/grey).

Melanina

The tone of hair color is a result of the degree of saturation of melanin in the cortex.

MELANIN AND COLOUR SATURATION Melanin is the natural pigment produced by the body which determines the color of the hair and skin. Melanin is formed in the blood from the combination of enzymes and amino-acids. These cells are situated on the entire surface of the skin and in the hair bulbs. This colored substance is produced by cells called melanocytes present in the matrix of the hair. The pigment is synthesized in the melanosome, cytoplasmic corpuscle of melanocyte, starting from an amino acid called thyroxin. When melanin is produced, it moves along the stem and is keratinized, thus becoming an integral part of the hair. When the production of amino acids by the body decreases, the same thing happens to the formation of melanin in the whole body, leading to the first signs of grey hair. When the production of amino acids halts completely, the hair starts to go completely grey or white. It is important to understand that when hair loses melanin, the same thing happens to the skin. An expert colorist must be aware that in order to obtain effective results, hair should be suited to the color of the complexion, which alters with time. Just as important is to understand that melanin is neither dark nor light, but is always a color that goes from black to brown. The tone of hair color is a result of the degree of saturation of melanin in the cortex.

The first form of melanin is EUMELANIN; it is responsible for the darkest shades of hair, from black to dark brown. The second type of melanin is PHAEOMELANIN, responsible for the light brown to natural blonde shades. The last type of melanin is TRICHOSIDERIN, which is found in naturally red hair and is an oxidized form of dark eumelanin; this is the most difficult to control. The higher the saturation of melanin, the less “space” there is to deposit and develop the dye precursors inside the cortex. This is the reason why it is sometimes necessary to pre-lighten, because we are actually creating space inside the hair to insert the color molecules.

6 Hair structure

Hair Structure FINE HAIR Fine hair is usually easier to submit to bleaching because it has fewer scaly layers to be penetrated and a lower quantity of melanin in the cortex to be altered. This type of hair has less “space” on the interior and therefore reaches saturation more easily, which may make it seem a more intense or darker shade. The smaller the space, the more compact the molecules and therefore, the more intense the result.

COARSE HAIR Changing the natural color of coarse or dark hair is a much greater task. This type has a higher quantity of scaly layers and a greater saturation of the melanin to be altered. The same shade used on coarse hair may appear lighter and more transparent because the molecules are spread out in a larger space.

THE SAME QUANTITY OF DYE PRECURSORS WILL HAVE DIFFERENT DEGREES OF SATURATION ON HAIR OF DIFFERENT STRUCTURES.

Tip: use a half level lighter on very fine hair and a half level darker on very thick hair. This is necessary only in extreme cases and is very useful for grey coverage.

EUMELANINS Eumelanins With their brownish/black color they create the increase in level. According to the quantity present, hair will range from black to a very light blonde. They are mainly concentrated in the periphery of the cortex, near the cunicular layer. They are easy to lighten by using a bleaching process. They are also called granular pigments thanks to their form, which is rice-shaped.

Phaeomelanins TRICHOSIDERINS Their color is what determines reddish-copper highlights. They are mainly concentrated in the medium layers of the cortex. Usually they are difficult to lighten using a bleaching process. They are also called diffusing pigments, because they appear smaller and in a greater quantity with respect to the granular type.

PHAEOMELANINS Their yellowish color is what determines the blonde shades. They are mainly concentrated in the deep layers of the cortex. These pigments are more difficult to lighten using a bleaching process. In fact, it is impossible to eliminate Phaeomelanins from the hair completely. They are also defined diffusing pigments.

7 Hair structure

Colour Scale NATURAL BASE EUMELANINS TRICHOSIDERINS PHAEOMELANINS When combined, Eumelanins, Tricho- siderins and Phaeomelanins produce different natural colors: BLACK 55% 40% 5% DARK BROWN 50% 35% 10% DARK CHESTNUT BROWN 45% 30% 15% MEDIUM CHESTNUT BROWN 40% 25% 20% LIGHT CHESTNUT BROWN 35% 20% 25% DARK BLONDE 30% 15% 30% MEDIUM BLONDE 25% 15% 35% LIGHT BLONDE 15% 15% 40% VERY LIGHT BLONDE 10% 10% 45% PLATINUM BLONDE 5% 10% 50% COLOUR SCALE – MELANIN DENSITY

POROSITY AND PH The term porosity means the ability to absorb and release water or liquids and is determined by the condition of the cuticle. Healthy hair has a cuticle that is compact and contiguous, whereas damaged hair has a swollen cuticle with scales that are detached or even absent.

The porosity of hair is altered by many factors, such as intense alkaline treatments, excessive development times and repeated chemical treatments, but also due to environmental or external factors, such as the sun, sea, heating instruments and styling techniques taken to an extreme.

A damaged cuticle is very porous, and this factor involves a higher absorption of liquids and longer drying times. The porosity of the hair is an important factor to consider when hair is to be colored because it determines the tone, intensity and stability of the color.

Hair that is very porous and damaged has a tendency to become opaque, dull or to take on strong but inconsistent tones. Normal hair has a pH of around 5.5, whereas damaged, porous hair has an altered pH which is much more alkaline; this creates a hostile environment that may cause problems during coloring processes.

Very porous and damaged hair must therefore be treated with due caution. Colouring porous hair must be carried out with the awareness that this type of hair loses its color with the same ease as it acquires it.

To regulate the porosity of hair before color processes, Rolland recommends that hair is sprayed generously with Hrestore, the vegetable keratin supplement . In the case of highly damaged hair, we recommend that the customer have an OW RELIFE reconstruction treatment and then thee application of ammonia- free Hcolor.

8 Hair structure

The Hair

When hair is in “normal” condition the cuticle is contiguous and with the use of alkaline products swells rather easily. This allows the precursors to penetrate into the cortex, to become deposited and to oxidize.

Hbalance Shampoo

Once they are penetrated beyond the cuticle, the precursors oxidize and enlarge, remaining trapped in the cortex. After this procedure, the cuticle must be closed Hbalance Mask in order to seal the color and protect the structure of the hair. This occurs during the rinse phase and is further aided by the use of an acid-based shampoo and conditioning mask. For this step, Rolland has formulated Hbalance Shampoo and HBalance Mask, the treatment and detangling mask that rebalances the pH.

Hcolor, which is ammonia-free, produces a minimum reswelling between the scales of the cuticle where the micropigments are able to enter and settle in. This procedure ensures a high level of saturation by favouring total penetration while respecting the structure of the hair. This makes Hcolor a smart choice also for hair that is in less than perfect condition.

9 Light and the law of color

Light surrounds us; we see it in the sky, the sea, in rocks, plants and animals. Color makes us value our lives more. All objects have a color and we only know how to distinguish them because of the light reflected on the color. To obtain a better understanding of the subject of color, scientists have had to study the 3 nature of light. White light, like that emitted from the sun, is divided into colors of the rainbow. These colors can be then remixed to create a white light. A colored object simply reflects the light in our eyes by looking at it, whether it is an apple or a lock of hair. When we refer to a color, we are actually talking about rays of colored light that are reflections.

Light is the transmitter of colors and our eyes are the receivers. Standard artificial Basic light (a normal light bulb), accentuates warm tones such as red, gold, pink and yellow. This is the source of light used most frequently in homes, and although principles it may soften the ambience of a living room, it can interfere with an evaluation of the color. A fluorescent light is more economical and is recommended for the of hair coloring cutting area because it doesn’t cast shadows; however it is unsuitable for evalu- ating color because it tends to emphasize green and cold tones and does not permit a true perception of reds and coppers, making them dull and opaque.

Without a doubt, the best light source is the natural light produced by the sun. But as we know that it is nearly impossible to use this type, we recommend the use of a high-intensity Tungsten light, which is also the light preferred by photog- raphers and make-up artists. Considering that the definition of color depends on the light source, this type of light will work best for areas designated for hair coloring procedures. It is unprofessional to escort the customer outside the salon into the natural light in order to reassure her/him about the color. Both stylist and customer should be satisfied about the color when the customer is in front of the mirror in the salon.

THE DIMENSION OF COLOR Our eyes are continuously submitted to effects of color. It is surprising how the same color can be so different when placed alongside other colors. Scientists claim that we can see a bigger difference between colors when we see them together rather than separately. What’s more, it has been proven that the eye becomes automatically more sensitive to a color when it perceives the complementary color. Colors give dimension to objects and shapes. A dark color gives the impression of distancing an object and making it smaller, whereas light colors give the impression of making an object closer and larger. The reflections of a color can also alter the depth of the tone. Warm colors reflect more light and appear lighter, whereas tones with ash or color highlights absorb more light and seem darker.

This information is of fundamental importance when formulating colors and when choosing the positioning of every shade; it gives dimension to the forms; it enhances facial features and tones. Red is specified because the subject absorbs all the colors except red, which is reflected in our eyes. When all colors are absorbed we see black. When all colors are reflected we see white.

10 Light and the law of color

LIGHT AND COLOR Natural hair color appears in all the tones of brown and is made up of three primary colors. Instead, colors created artificially can be cold (blues), warm (reds) and neutrals, but also have the possibility to originate colors outside the scheme of browns.

Color Theory PRIMARY COLORS PRIMARY COLORS: YELLOW, RED AND BLUE These three colors form the base of the color spectrum.

SECONDARY COLORS: ORANGE, VIOLET AND GREEN These colors originate from the combination of two primary colors. SECONDARY COLORS

TERTIARY COLORS Combining a secondary color and a primary color produces shades of color.

COMPLEMENTARY COLORS Two colors diametrically opposed on the color wheel are neutralized and COMPLEMENTARY COLORS produce black or dark brown. These colors are called complementary.

BLURRED/UNDEFINED COLORS When surface colors that are opposite in the color wheel are mixed in different concentrations, the result will be a blurred/undefined color.

BLURRED/UNDEFINED COLORS

11 Light and the law of color

Color Theory

WHITE LIGHT When it crosses through a prism it shows all the colors of the spectrum.

PERCEPTION OF COLORS Colors are produced from the absorption and reflection of several wavelengths of the existing light source. Color is a subjective sensorial perception.

MIX OF ADDITIVE COLORS The luminosity of different color light sources increases when directed towards the same point.

MIX OF SUBTRACTIVE COLORS Every color reflects and absorbs certain wavelengths of light. When different colors are mixed, more parts of light are absorbed; in this case the resulting color will be darker.

MIX OF ADDITIVE COLORS MIX OF SUBTRACTIVE COLORS

12 Light and the law of color

In the production of hair coloring products, producers like Rolland are aware of the fact that the wider the range of coloring pigments, the more brilliant and intense the result.

Hcolor offers a high saturation with a wide spectrum of pigments that offer pure, brilliant and natural tones.

The lower the level of color, the higher the saturation of the pigments. This means that there is a greater availability of precursors to interact with the con- tributing pigment and/or to cover grey hair.

Example: a level 5 has more pigments available than a level 8 and therefore offers greater grey coverage. A level 8 has a saturation greater than that of a 9 and thus has more control of the underlying pigments during the lightening phase.

Using a lighter level does not heighten the lightening action. The lightening action is increased with a higher volume of developer by incorporating the 0.0 corrector.

The volume of Hcatalyst Developer is the developer of the coloring cream and makes it possible to: • create space for the color molecules • introduce the precursors in the cortex • ensure the total development of precursors.

safety range

The Safety Range is the term given to the range of levels within which hair can be colored with 100% control of the underlying pigment, without further preparatory treatments. SAFETY RANGE

The Safety Range is the term given to the range of levels within which hair can be colored with 100% control of the underlying pigment, without further preparatory treatments. With Hcolor the Safety Range is 3 levels of tone lighter and darker than the base color.

Example: if natural color is a level 6, the safety range is from 4 to 8. Adding the 0.0 corrector, the safety range is 4 levels (3+1). Knowing the dominant pigments helps a great deal in bleaching and re-pigmentation procedures.

13 Series and shades

Ê NATURAL SERIES.0 Ê COPPERY SERIES.4

1.0 Natural black 4.4 Coppery brown 2.0 Brown 5.4 Coppery, light brown 3.0 Natural, dark brown 6.4 Coppery, dark blond 4.0 Natural brown 7.4 Coppery blond 5.0 Natural, light brown 8.4 Coppery, light blond 4 6.0 Natural, dark blond 7.0 Natural blond Ê MAHOGANY SERIES.5

8.0 Natural, light blond 4.5 Mahogany brown 9.0 Natural, very light blond 5.5 Mahogany, light brown 6.5 Mahogany, dark blond Ê NATURAL ASH SERIES.01

4.01 Ash-natural, brown Ê RED MAHOGANY SERIES.56

5.01 Ash-natural, light brown 4.56 Red mahogany brown The world 6.01 Ash-natural, dark blond 5.56 Red mahogany, light brown 7.01 Ash-natural blond 6.56 Red mahogany, dark blond of Hcolor 8.01 Ash-natural, light blond 9.01 Ash-natural, very light blond Ê RED SERIES.6

Ê ASH SERIES.1 4.6 Red brown 5.6 Red, light brown 4.1 Ash brown 7.6 Red blond 5.1 Ash, light brown Hcolour offers a rich range of 89 6.1 Ash, dark blond Ê DE EP RED SERIES.66 shades divided into the following 7.1 Ash blond 19 series. 8.1 Ash, light blond 5.66 Deep red, light brown 9.1 Ash, very light blond 6.66 Deep red, dark blond EACH HCOLOUR SHADE IS SPECI- 10.1 Ash, extra light blond 7.66 Deep red blond FIED WITH A SERIES OF NUMBERS 8.66 Deep red, light blond Ê BLUE SERIES THAT REPRESENT THE LEVEL AND Ê IRISÉE RED SERIES.62 THE HIGHLIGHT: 1.8 Blue black 5.62 Irisée red, light brown Ê The number before the point Ê BEIGE SERIES.31 6.62 Irisée red, dark blond 7.62 Irisée red blond is the level of the tone on a 5.31 Beige, light brown scale from 1 to 9. 6.31 Beige, dark blond Ê DEEP PURPLE SERIES.77 7.31 Beige blond Ê The first number after the point 4.77 Deep purple brown 8.31 Beige, light blond indicates the main highlight. 5.77 Deep purple, light brown 9.31 Beige, very light blond Ê The second number after the point 6.77 Deep purple, dark blond

indicates the secondary highlight. Ê GOLDEN SERIES .3 Ê MIXED SERIES Ê When the numbers after the 5.3 Golden, light brown 3.05 CI Chocolate point are different, this indicates 6.3 Golden, dark blond 4.05 CL Milk chocolate 7.3 Golden blond two highlights together with 4.35 CF Coffee 8.3 Golden, light blond the first being dominant. 5.35 CT Tobacco light brown 9.3 Golden, very light blond 6.35 BST Tobacco dark blond Ê When the numbers after the point 10.3 Golden, extra light blond are the same, this indicates 7.35 BT Tobacco blond an intense highlight. Ê COPPERY GOLDEN SER. .34 5.03 CM Mocha light brown 6.03 BSM Mocha dark blond 5.34 Coppery-golden, light brown SHADES 7.03 BM Mocha blond 6.34 Coppery-golden, dark blond 5.32 CDI Irisée-golden, light brown Ê Ex: Red Copper Blonde 7.46 7.34 Coppery-golden blond 7.32 BA Havana blond Level (tone): blonde 8.34 Coppery-g., light blond Ê SUPER BLEACHING SERIES.90 Primary highlight: copper Ê DEEP COPPERY SERIES.44 90.0 Natural super-bleach. blond Secondary highlight: red 5.44 Deep coppery, light brown 90.1 Ash super-bleaching blond 6.44 Deep coppery, dark blond 90.2 Irisée super-bleach. blond The combination of shades in the 7.44 Deep coppery blond 90.3 G. super-bleach. blond formulation of personalized colours is 8.44 Deep coppery, light blond made possible because all shades are Ê HAIR-TONE CORRECTORS Ê RED COPPERY SERIES.46 perfectly calibrated. 0.0 Bleaching activator 5.46 Red coppery, light brown 0.1 Ash hair-tone corrector 6.46 Red coppery, dark blond 0.3 Gold hair-tone corrector 7.46 Red coppery blond 0.6 Red hair-tone corrector 0.8 Blue hair-tone corrector

14 Series and shades

Shades

SHADES AND INDICATIONS FOR USE

Ê NATURAL SERIES Ê .34 COPPER GOLD Ê .66 INTENSE RED 9 shades 4 shades 4 shades Considered neutral, neither warm nor A combination of primary golden high- Double red highlight offers intense cold. Formulated in equal parts yel- lights and secondary copper high- and pure colours. low, red and blue. Recommended for lights. Together they create a more grey/white coverage. Can be mixed intense golden series. together with all highlights to increase Ê .62 IRISÉE RED grey/white coverage. Ê .44 INTENSE COPPER 3 shades For natural tones with a warm un- 4 shades A series with red/violet highlights dertone, incorporate a small % of the Bright copper highlights. makes colours intense and vibrant. golden and copper series.

Ê .46 RED COPPER Ê .01 NATURAL ASH 3 shades Ê .8 BLUE BLACK 6 shades The secondary red highlight intensi- 1 shades Has a secondary ash highlight that fies the copper, resulting in a deeper gives a slightly colder tone. Is an ex- highlight. Blue pigments offer an undertone cellent choice when a warm pigment highlight with a vibrant effect. is to be lifted. Ê .4 COPPER 5 shades Ê .1 ASH Ê MIXED 7 shades The copper highlights of this series are a perfect combination of yellow and Contains a majority of blue pigment Special series where the primary orange pigments. Creates vibrant, such to be considered a cold tone. Is and secondary highlights are lustrous highlights. Produces beauti- not recommended for grey/white cov- specially mixed to create hybrid ful effects of colour on natural hair. erage as hair could come out grey. Is effects defined with metaphorical an excellent series to use in order to names. Highlighting is warm and Ê .5 MAHOGANY neutralize red/orange pigments. This very natural. 3 shades series comes out one tone darker than the warmer series. This series of red/violet highlights is optimized when used on tones from Ê .31 BEIGE 4 to 6. 5 shades Ê .56 RED MAHOGANY A series with a secondary ash high- 3 shades light that offers delicate beige shades. Total coverage up to 30% of grey/ A red variation of primary mahogany white hair. highlight with slight violet highlights.

Ê .3 GOLD Ê .6 RED 6 shades 3 shades Good for achieving warm and radiant The red highlights of this series are highlights. Excellent for mixing with good for achieving vibrant, long-last- the NATURAL series to achieve natu- ing reds. They can be mixed with oth- ral, luminous effects. er shades to obtain warmer colours.

15 When and how to use them

The series of Hcolor Superlighteners are colors that not only have dye precursors but also have a stronger lightening action. This series acts more like a lightener than a color, with the advantage that there is control over the degree of lightening and 5 over the dominant pigment, even lightening 4 levels. • Creates blondes in 4 levels (tones). • Colours are controlled and clean. • One procedure only (less time taken).

A series that includes 4 highlights, each offering the possibility to lighten 4 levels with a control equal to 100% of the underlying pigment. We recommend that the Correctors And superlighteners be used from a level 6 to 9. For maximum lightening we advise using Hcatalyst 40 vol./12% or to add the 0.0 corrector. Superlighteners The 4 highlights of the Hcolor superlighteners can get up to 4 levels of lightening in difficult cases with the addition of the 0.0. corrector, therefore offering 70% of control of the underlying pigment.

The darkest levels (from 3 down) will obtain the best lightening results by performing a double procedure and choosing lower volumes with HBleach, and then using the best shade of Hcolor (chapter 10).

90.0 Makes it possible to enhance natural pigments and can be used to lighten. 90.1 Lightens and offers a good control of orange/red pigments. The best choice for lightening darker tones. 90.2 Offers pearly shades. Used on bleached bases, is an excellent ant-yellowing product. Excellent results when used on tones 7-9. 90.3 Accentuates golden tones. Best when used on light tones 8-9.

CORRECTORS 4 highlights + 1 lightening booster All correctors except 0.0, which is colorless, are composed of dye precursors called “pure pigments.” This series has the aim of intensifying or altering the highlights of oxidizing colors. It can be used with all shades of Hcolor to accentuate or modify the highlight. The properties of the Correctors enable a perfect formulation specially adapted to any situation. • The addition of corrector should never exceed 6% of the total oxidizing cream. • The use of correctors by themselves is not recommended because they may come out transparent, synthetic and incomplete.

superlighteners

Base Level Developer Blend Development time 7-8 Hcatalyst 30-40 vol 1:1 and 1/2 45 minutes 5-6 Hcatalyst 40 vol 50% of 0.0 + 50% of 45 minutes superlightener: 1+ 1 and 1/2

16 When and how to use them

Color Disc

This disc will help you understand where the Hcolor shades are positioned on the color wheel.

0.0 lightening booster 0.1 Ash 0.3 Gold 0.6 Red 0.8 Blue 0.0 is a lightening booster contain- Created to lift Increases This corrector intensifies all warm This corrector ing no dye precursors. It is intended ash highlights; the intensity shades and helps to prevent increases the to boost the lightening action. This controls the of golden earthy, dull tones that sometime cold highlight of “intensifier” allows the formula used dominant yel- shades, sof- arise in the correction of color. the color. to have an excellent control of the low pigments. tens coppers Can be used to enhance mahog- Increases blue dominant pigments; the addition Should be and reds any, irisee, copper highlights or tones and neu- of 0.0 should never exceed 50% used with the and makes else eliminate dulled green/grey tralizes red/cop- of the total of the coloring cream. natural series natural co- highlights. per highlights. Its use is especially recommended or ash. lors brighter. with the Superlighteners.

17 Hair Color

Hair color can be divided into four types according to the final result you wish to achieve:

• Temporary color • Semi-permanent color 6 • Tone-on-tone color using oxidizing agent • Permanent color using oxidizing agent

Different products are used for each of these types of hair color:

Semi-permanent color Hair Color

Covers (masks) grey hair as long as it is present in a percentage below 30%-35%. Does not lighten, is applied tone-on-tone, can give a pronounced highlight, stays in for 3-4 shampoos.

Tone on tone

Products are generally in liquid or foam form and use no hydrogen peroxide. Devel- opment time is 15-20 minutes. Contains no ammonia, covers up to 50-70% of grey/ white hair, is applied tone-on-tone, can give a pronounced, long-lasting highlight.

Permanent coloring

Contains ammonia, alkaline substance, (in Hcolor Ethanolamine), covers up to 100% of grey/white hair, can lighten the natural color of hair 2-3-4 tones; can give a pronounced highlight that is permanent. Products are generally in liquid or cream form, need to be mixed with 10-20-30-40 volume hydrogen peroxide, are applied with a brush; development time is at least 30 minutes, hair must be rinsed.

18 Hair Color

Hcolor

THE ACTION MECHANISM

In this handbook, we give a description of Hcolor from the Organic Way line. Hcolor is an ammonia-free permanent color. It is included in the last type of hair color (permanent with oxidizing agent) although it contains no ammonia.

Colour using an oxidizing agent acts in two ways simultaneously: it both lightens and colors hair.

To do this, three important factors come into play: • Ethanolamine • Oxidizing agent • Pre-stage pigments

These elements must be mixed very well in order to obtain a cream that is easy to apply. We now turn our attention to the role of these three components inside the hair. The action mechanism of this type of coloring is the following:

A. Ethanolamine opens the scales; B. Ethanolamine neutralizes the H2O2 stabilizers, freeing oxygen, then evaporates; C. The oxygen freed by the Ethanolamine arrives at the cortex, reacts with the pre-stage pigments and lightens the natural melanin of the hair. D. The pre-stage pigments reach the cortex.

When choosing among the different types of color, you must bear in mind the level of the tone, the tone to achieve according to the objective, the percentage of grey/white hair to cover, if there were previous color treatments and the level of the hair’s porosity.

19 The developers

The developer is HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (H2O2) diluted in emulsion.

It acts as an oxidizing agent of hair color and as a lightener on the pigments of melanin. The percentage used determines its oxidizing capacities. The correct 7 quantities of dilution of hydrogen peroxide in the color mixture (established by the producer) are essential for a guaranteed result.

• The peroxide performs different combined activities in coloring using oxidization: A. lightens the natural melanins of the hair; B. develops the pre-stage pigments; C. buffers the aggressiveness of basic substances contained in the color. The developers Clearly, the range of hair coloring services performed in salons (bleaching, stripping, color treatments, etc.) all use an oxidizing agent.

It is a good idea, then, to gain a thorough understanding of the content, functions, metrics, dilution and the scope of action of this element in order to manage the color treatment process as successfully as possible.

The pre-stage pigments, due to the freed oxygen, are colored and increase in size by uniting themselves in groups (oxidative condensation).

The pigments developed wedge between the cortex fibres from where they will never be able to escape given their size. • The color obtained is the joint result of the lightening effect produced and the applied color. • The color is normally developed in a basic environment around 10 pH.

The oxidizer is a concentration of oxygen atoms in the gaseous state in a water solution. It is composed of two oxygen atoms and two hydrogen atoms (H2O2).

The molecule of the hydrogen peroxide is instable; in fact, it tends to free an oxygen atom to become a water molecule.

The strength of the oxidizer can be expressed either as a volume or percentage: - 20, 30, or 40 volumes - 6%, 9% or 12%

When we say a 20, 30, or 40 volume oxidizer, this means that one litre of oxidizer can develop 20, 30, or 40 litres of oxygen in the gaseous state.

When we say 6%, 9%, 12% hydrogen peroxide, this means that out of 1000 grams of product, 60, 90, or 120 grams are active oxygen. N.B The remaining part to reach 1000 grams is demineralized water.

- 6% hydrogen peroxide is the same as 20 volume hydrogen peroxide - 9% hydrogen peroxide is the same as 30 volume hydrogen peroxide -12% hydrogen peroxide is the same as 40 volume hydrogen peroxide

20 The developers

oxidizer

The oxidizer is composed of:

Base or support, is usually in a creamy or liquid emulsion. The liquid support of the oxidizer evaporates more quickly than a creamy support, is less stable and more aggressive; the support in a creamy emulsion of the oxidizer evaporates less quickly compared to the liquid support, is less stable and less aggressive, contains buffering substances.

OXIDIZING SUBSTANCES: the most often used is hydrogen peroxide. STABILIZING SUBSTANCES: these make the oxidizing molecule stable.

TIPS FOR A CORRECT USE OF THE OXIDIZER • The oxidizer must be stored in sealed bottles, which are to be use within a short period of time once opened. • The oxidizer must not be exposed to the sun or store in environments that are too hot. • The oxidizer must be kept away from dust or ash.

dilution

DILUTION

Hcolor has a dilution of 1 + 1+1/2 - Example: 50 g color + 75 ml of oxidizer

This means that the Rolland research labs have formulated the color so that its components are perfectly balanced in a mix performed in a ratio of 1: 1 and 1/2. This dilution offers an economic advantage for the hairdresser because ammonia- free colors on the market usually are diluted at a ratio of 1:1. The dilution of Hcolor at 1: 1 and 1/2 translates into excellent savings for the salon. The quantity of oxidizer to be mixed with the color is depends a great deal on the chemical formula. When the rules on utilization are disregarded, the result is an unbalance in the color and undesirable aesthetic results.

The lightening effect for the natural base of hair with respect to the color desired by the customer determines the choice of oxidizer: • 20 volumes = 6% • 30 volumes = 9% • 40 volumes =12%

21 The developers

Miscelazione

“To best identify the base color, we MIXTURE LIGHTENING ACTION recommend using the Hcolor color chart. It is important to determine the differences in l between the natural Color + 20 vol. oxidizer 1+ 1+1/2 up to 1 level base color and the desired color for Color + 30 vol. oxidizer 1+ 1+1/2 up to 2 levels the choice of the 20, 30, or 40 volume Color + 40 vol. oxidizer 1+ 1+1/2 up to 3-4 levels strength.”

Developers

Choosing the correct developer

Hcatalyst and Htone are Hcolor developers in a scented emulsion, perfectly stabilized according to the volumes indicated. Hcatalyst is available in 3 levels: 20 vol/6%, 30 vol/9%, and 40 vol/12%. Htone develops approximately at 8-9 volumes; it is a creamy developer for ammonia-free tone-on-tone Hcolor coloring products. Each of these developers is added with Perilla Oil and Cot- ton Protein to provide a gentle action on the hair shaft and cuticle so that hair will be soft, strong and radiant during the treatment. They offer a complete development of the precursors, excellent lightening action, as well as protect hair from structural damage. Hcolor should be mixed with the Hcatalyst oxidizing emulsion in the ratio of 1 part coloring cream and 1 and 1⁄2 of oxidizer. The colorist and also follow the 1 + 1 dilution to give maximum coverage while enhancing the shades. To ensure that the precursors are completely developed and that the product is uniform, it is important that the product is mixed at a proportion of 1: 1 and 1/2 and 1:1 (1 part cream to 1: 1 and 1/2 parts developer or 1:1 if coloring grey/white hair). If these proportions are altered, less energy is available to deposit, develop or lighten, with the resulting being imprecise colors that will not last very long. When choosing the level of

22 The developers developer, it is important to remember that hydrogen peroxide is the energy source for Hcolor. Htone is an extra gentle toning milk to color and enhance highlights, streaks and contrasts. For Hcolor tone-on-tone color treatments (when the base shade doesn’t need to be altered) mix in the proportion of 1 Hcolor to 1: 1and 1/2 Htone.

Htone

Hcatalyst 20 vol. To tone highlights and contrasts: after performing highlights and contrasts, blot hair. Dilute Htone according to the required quantities with the desired shade of Hcolor and apply over the entire head, paying special attention to the pieces of hair with highlights or contrasts.

Leave on a maximum of 5 minutes, then rinse generously. Proceed with Hbalance shampoo and Hbalance mask from the Hsystem line.

The level of volume determines the degree of saturation and lightening, so that the higher the volume, the less evident the natural color in the final result.

Htone / 2,7% Htone Tone-on-tone, to darken, tone grey hair. Hcatalyst 30 e 40 vol.

20 vol / 6% Hcatalyst Color Deposit, 1-2 levels, covers grey.

30 vol / 9% Hcatalyst Vibrant Colours, 2-3 levels, covers difficult grey

40 vol / 12% 3-4 levels, covers grey.

to improve the grey coverage or the bleaching power is possible to use 25 volumes mixing Hcatalyst 20 + 30 vol.

Substituting developers is never advised, because each developer has been formulated to work in synergy with its counterpart.

Hcatalyst and Htone are both must more than simple “hydrogen peroxides”; they are a complex mixture of ingredients with a specific pH that guarantees each Hcolor shade perfect performance (viscosity, natural actives on hair, etc.).

23 Application tecniques

Every stylist aims to achieve a perfect color treatment to satisfy the highest expectations of his/her customer. To do this, it is important to analyze the basic points for a correct application of Hcolor. The first aspect regards the base color. The roots, lengths and ends should 8 all be analyzed separately. After that, the level, the highlight or shade and if natural or artificial color is the case. Again, we need to consider the steps necessary for the color, the tone to achieve the goal and to establish the base pigment. Analyzed separately are the front and back and a correct ascertain- ment of the percentage of grey/white hair.

The structure of the hair is another variable that will be considered: nor- Application mal, fine or coarse / delicate or resistant / chemically treated / porous or very damaged (cuticle open). factors for We must also understand if the hair structure will absorb the color and/or perfect hair color resist the treatment. With this information, the stylist will be able to define the method, the product, the formulation, the application and the development time.

Interview

The interview with the customers allows the stylist to discover what the real “desires” of the customer are in terms of color. Because it important to communicate clearly, here are some questions the salon professional may direct to the customer.

• What do you think of the color of your hair? Would you like to change it? • What shades do you prefer: light, medium or dark? (use the color chart) • What highlighting do you prefer, copper, ash, gold, red, etc.? • If you could change the color of your hair, what shade would you choose? • What color on the color chart do you Another step concerns the indirect or direct consultation of the customer. like? Indirectly, the salon professional must consider the style and taste of the • Do you like the new color on this model chosen from the Rolland customer, the clothing, the accessories, lifestyle, profession, and what the fashion collection? customer generally prefers. • What do you think about personali- zing your color with fashion services A diagnosis can be made together, especially if the customer is new. In most (streaks, slights, etc.)? cases, when applying color the first time, it usually is not a good idea to pres- • How long have you been coloring your hair? ent the color treatment as a process that will result in a radical transformation. • Do you have it colored by the hair Learn how to distinguish cases where the customer is seeking a change for stylists or do it yourself at home? psychological reasons. • What problems do you encounter in hair coloring? Propose a change that will enhance the natural color of hair without altering • What do you appreciate about coloring? it, one that gives more splendour and emphasis to the hair style. Hcolor gives a natural effect, softens hair, and makes it shiny and easy to manage. Terms like radiance, streaks, highlights, brilliance, natural shade, contrasts, trans-

24 Application tecniques parency, slight highlight, elegant nuance, gentle shade, etc. prompt favour- able reactions because they correspond generally to conscious desires.

However, there are also terms to prefer: POSITIVE Tint >> To color To Dye >> To Colour To Transform >> To Highlight Transformation >> Highlighting Bleaching >> Lightening

After the interview, we can encourage the customer to consider a service by suggesting something from the images of the Rolland fashion collection or by using magazines. This will be done with the aid of the color chart including locks of hair, enabling us to show exactly what we mean by “mahogany” or “copper.”

With Hcolor we can perform application directly from the roots to the ends in a single procedure. To add color to the area of regrowth, first apply to the roots, then lengths, and last on the ends. For applications on hair that has never been treated, first apply to lengths, then ends, and last on roots. As far as formulas are concerned, it is of almost importance to observe the quantities of product necessary for the quantity of hair to be colored, the mixture doses and to utilize the electronic scale for measuring the right quantity. Bowls and brushes must always be dry and clean.

Skin sensitivity test Perilla Oil

“Hcolor is formulated without ammonia and contains Perilla Oil featuring anti-allergic properties, it offers protection from many allergy problems.”

Because Hcolor is formulated without ammonia and contains Perilla Oil featuring anti-allergic properties, it offers protection from many allergy problems. But when it comes to allergies or other skin problems, we know that these can also be caused by plants or become evident over time. For this reason, before any application of color, a skin test should be made to see if the customer exhibits an intolerance for the product. - Wash 1 cm of skin behind the ear well with alcohol. - Apply a small quantity of Hcolor on the area that has been prepared. - Repeat application 2 or 3 times and allow to dry between intervals. - Wait 48 hours without washing the area. - If there is any itching or redness after this time period, there is probably a sensitivity to some component in the product, and therefore the color should not be applied.

25 Application tecniques

Skin sensitivity test

ESTABLISH 1. level of tone and highlight 2. % of grey/white hair 3. previous chemical services 4. stated tone and highlight 5. levels of lightening 6. degree of deposit 7. dominant underlying pigment

DEFINE 1. formula 2. level of Hcatalyst or whether to use Htone 3. application technique 4. development time

ENSURE THAT 1. level offers sufficient saturation of color 2. highlight selected matches the range of application 3. the mixture is 1: 1 and 1/2 or 1+ 1 in case greater coverage is desired 4. mixture is blended well 5. application is accurate and uniform

APPLICATION TECHNIQUES Before starting, we recommend applying Hscreen (chapter 11) to protect the customer’s skin and that the person performing the service uses gloves. We also advise that both wear protective garments.

BASIC RULES If grey/white hair is present, start application from the back. The application technique is established according to the situation and depends on the final result desired. That said, there are three basic techniques.

Ê 1. APPLICATION FROM ROOTS TO ENDS Hcolor offers the possibility to apply the product directly from the roots to the ends in a single step. This technique is also applicable, including on virgin hair, only when working within the safety range, i.e., lightening or darkening within 3-4 levels. Using this technique means that on each piece treated, the product should be applied immediately from the roots to the ends. With results that require going outside the safety range, it is necessary to adopt traditional methods such as re-pigmentation.

26 Application tecniques

Virgin hair Ê 2. APPLICATION TO VIRGIN HAIR

Hair that has never undergone a color treatment process is called “virgin hair.” When color is given to a head of virgin hair (even performing a treatment process outside the safety range) it is necessary to take into consideration the length of the hair to be treated. The filiform characteristic of the hair makes it take on two different aspects, which should not be underestimated.

Difference in temperature:. The scalp has a temperature of about 32° which gradually decreases towards the ends (depending on the length) until reaching an ambient temperature of approx.18-20°

Difference in structure: The hair, which is primarily structured of keratin located inside the epidermis of the hair bulb, overlaps, lengthens and keratinizes. Once it is consolidated, un- less it undergoes environmental damage as it distances itself from the scalp, it gradually becomes more resistant to chemical products. Given the diversity in temperature and the non-uniform structure, this situation may present ob- stacles that do not allow a uniform result from the roots to the ends.

In order for this technique to have a good outcome, we recommend the following procedure: - Use a higher developer (e.g., 30 volumes) on the half lengths and ends. - Leave 2 cm at the root, apply the product onto the half lengths and ends. - Allow to develop for 15 minutes. - Apply the second formula with a lower developer (e.g. 20 volumes) at the roots. - Allow to develop 30 minutes. - Emulsify and massage together. Allow to process 5 minutes.

Ê 3. APPLICATION TO REGROWTH - Prepare the product according to the normal instructions. - Apply only to the roots, following the rule. - Make sure not to overlap the product in the areas that are already colored. - Allow to develop 30 minutes. - Prepare the formula again using the Htone developer. - Apply to half-lengths and ends. - Allow to develop 10 minutes.

Hcolor has been formulated to enable simple use, and thanks to its calibrated tones, it is also dependable and versatile. To ensure optimum performance, we recommend following this guide carefully when preparing the formulas.

27 Application tecniques

Preparation FORMULATING

Hcolor starts to perform its function right when the compound is applied onto the hair. To optimize performance, a certain set of evaluations must be made and certain rules must be followed before starting.

When performing hair color treatment, every factor that intervenes must be evaluated and used in order to obtain the desired result. This part may seem the most complex; however thanks to the components of its special formula (whose strong wetting action makes the color molecule easily penetrable without making necessary excessive swelling of the hair). Hcolor ensures the color the promised result, exact correspondence of the stated tones and healthy hair.

This means that if the tone stated is a 6, then a level of tone 6 should be used. If a lighter tone is used, the lightening action of the product is not increased; instead the availability of colored pigments necessary to control the underlying pigments is diminished.

PREPARING THE COLOUR

• When preparing the color it is important that the doses are exact in order to obtain a constant result (1:1 and 1/2 is always advised). • We recommend using a professional scale indicating grams. • Never use metal bowls or instruments. • Always measure the developer and the coloring cream. • Immediately use the product after preparation. • When more than one shade is used, first mix the creams together, then add the developer. • Never use more than 6% of corrector.

You may obtain technically perfect results that make a very nice impact by following a few basic rules.

The color should be mixed with Hcatalyst oxidizing emulsion in the ratio of 1 part coloring cream to 1: and 1/2 parts oxidizer. You can also perform the dilution of 1+1 to emphasize coverage while enhancing the shades to a greater degree.

Only Hcatalyst guarantees the perfect stabilization and exact correspondence to the stated volumes. • Pour in small quantities until the liquid is perfectly incorporated. • The final mixture must be soft but have a certain consistency. • Before using Hcolor, do not wash hair. Brush it carefully to eliminate any residues of hair sprays or fixing lotions.

Shampoo using a gentle product such as OW Daily Act Shampoo only with hair that has too many residues of finishing products or is extremely dirty, then after a short drying process, apply the color mixture.

28 Application tecniques

DEVELOPMENT TIMES AND RINSING The development time depends on the desired result. However, it is essential that the time falls within the minimum and maximum time indicated. During the development time, Hcolor first performs the lightening phase and then develops the precursors. Development Times: When the product is rinsed out before the minimum development time is completed (30-35 minutes), the results will be imprecise and incomplete. Ê DESIRED RESULT: Development times indicated below are recommended by Hcolor in order to Darken, Tone-on-tone ensure an optimum performance: DEVELOPMENT TIME: 30 minutes If Hypercolor is used, the development times are reduced by about 65-70% (Chapter 12). Ê Rinsing Hcolor is a simple procedure that will have excellent results if per- DESIRED RESULT: formed carefully. 1-2 levels • At the end of the development time, emulsify the color mixture. Coverage of grey/white • Wait several seconds, then rinse out the product thoroughly. DEVELOPMENT TIME: • Shampoo and condition using products from the Hsystem line 35-40 minutes (Chapter 10) and style as usual. Ê DESIRED RESULT: After rinsing, the results should be: 3-4 levels • Scalp and hairline showing no traces of color Coverage of resistant • Scalp and hair free of residues grey/white • A scalp with no progressive irritations DEVELOPMENT TIME: • A balanced pH over scalp and hair 40-45 minutes • Healthy, long-lasting colors Ê DESIRED RESULT: 4+ levels Superlighteners DEVELOPMENT TIME: 45 minutes

29 Special applications

Grey coverage

Hair turns grey or white when the body stops producing amino acids, and as a result the production of melanin is reduced in the entire body. When hair loses 9 colour, skin tone changes too; this is an important factor to consider when a colour is chosen for a customer who has a high percentage of grey hair. It is not advis- able to match mature skin with tones that are too dark or cold. The use of lighter and golden tones tends to illuminate the face, soften facial features and give a more natural image. The most important requirement is to obtain a good coverage together with the desired effects. Methods WHEN MAKING A HAIR ANALYSIS, IT IS IMPORTANT TO ESTABLISH: and special Ê the percentage (30%-50%-70%-etc.) applications Ê the distribution (more at the temples, more at the top)

Grey hair

% GREY HAIR MIX DILUTION UP TO 50% only desired shade 1:1 for fine hair 70-60% desired shade + 30-40% natural shade 1 level lower for resistant hair OVER 50% 50% desidered shade + 50% natural shade 1 level lower 1:1

**THIS TABLE FUNCTIONS WITH % OF GREY HAIR UNIFORMLY DISTRIBUTED, DEVELOPMENT TIME IS 40 MINUTES (15-20 minutes with Hypercolor method -if the grey hair percentage is very high)

Ê EXAMPLE: GREY HAIR: 70%, uniformly distributed

Ê DESIRED TONE: 7.3

Ê 50% of 7.3+ 50% of 6.0

20 volume Hcatalyst or 30 vol if VERY DIFFICULT HAIR TO TREAT

To cover white hair it is very important to begin the application from behind.

When grey hair is concentrated in a confined area (e.g., the roots) using the pre- pigmentation technique is strongly recommended.

30 Special applications

Pre-pigmentation Pre-pigmentation

Ê This technique is utilized when there is a high concentration of difficult-to-treat grey hair, for example at the roots, temples or in case of grey locks that are difficult to treat.

Ê The pre-pigmentation has two main functions: it opens the scales of the cuticle thanks to the higher basicity contained in the pure dye; it pre-colours, it gives grey hair a quantity of pre-stage pigments that will later be developed by the oxidizer contained in the colouring mix to guarantee a perfect coverage of grey hair.

Ê Apply pure Hcolor colour to grey hair without mixing it with oxidizer. Distribute the product uniformly, using a brush or else squeezing directly from the tube; massage in with fingers. Do not apply an excessive quantity of the product and do not rinse. Next, without allowing for any development time, apply the mix to the entire head (also on the pre-pigmented area).

Ê To pre-pigment, use the natural series in case of natural or cold shades, or else the warm series in case of golden and warm shades. Choose a shade from the natural or warm series in a darker tone than that of the colour applied later.

Colour Correction

Services requiring preparation of the hair prior to application of the oxidizing colour are called Colour Correction services.

These services are carried out when a customer desires the following: - To colour very resistant hair - A lighter colour on hair that has already been coloured. - A much darker colour on lightened hair. - The removal of a highlight. - To revive faded colours.

Sensitizing the cuticle or “mordenzatura” Sensitizing the cuticle or “mordenzatura”, is a technique that allows you to increase the porosity of difficult-to-treat hair and prepare it to receive a colour via oxidization. The procedure must be performed at the sink, on dry hair, and by massaging on the lengths and ends Hcatalyst 20 volumes taking care not to sensitize the scalp. After 5-10 minutes of processing time it’s possible to proceed directly with the hair colour application. Another suggestions is apply directly from the tube the 0.0. lightening booster. Massage using the fingertips in the most difficult to treat areas and continue with the hair colour service.

31 Special applications

Colour cleaning Colour cleaning

If after a Colour application an overload of colour (leaden effect) appear on lengths and ends proceed with colour cleaning: on wet hair apply 50-60 gr of Hcatalyst 20-30 vol. Massage in and keep in processing time 10-20 minutes. Proceed with Hbalance shampoo and Hbalance mask. Apply Hrestore to integrate the hair structure.

Stripping This is a special technique that allows you to modify artificial pigments. It is performed when there is the need to switch to a lighter cosmetic colour than that existing. It is the only way to meet this need and to avoid the long wait with different shades of the re-growth, lengths and ends. Repigmentation Repigmentation

Ê What it is : - Repigmentation is performed when you wish to colour hair with a weakened structure, hair that rejects colour or else absorbs it irregularly, causing blotching, smudg- ing, and other mishaps. - It literally means “to give back pigment to hair that has lost it due to natural or artificial causes”. It is also defined as “construction of foundation.”

Ê Repigmentation offers the following advantages: - Obtains medium or dark shades on light bases - Makes colour more long-lasting on porous hair - Avoids colour changes - Reinforces the highlight of a shade on very fragile ends - Makes shades more brilliant

Ê When to do it: - Repigmentation is performed in the following cases: - Anytime you wish to darken hair that doesn’t possess the ideal support to guarantee hold and fidelity to the cosmetic shade applied afterwards. - If you wish to darken natural hair three tones or more. - When coloured or super-lightened hair has to be darkened from two tones onward. - When natural hair has to be darkened from three tones onward. - When colouring very fragile hair, i.e., streaked or bleached hair - Whenever you want to avoid colour changes on ash tones. - When you exceed the ideal base for lightening in the case of a bleaching or stripping process.

Hcolor requires repigmentation only if you want to work outside the “safety range” (3 tones) or when hair is particularly porous. Repigmentation requires the use of warm colours (golds, coppers and reds) and to avoid ash tones. Even if the desired tone is cold it is necessary give a warm tone (golds-coppers, reds for dark tones)

32 Special applications

Ê How to proceed

At the sink, clean the hair with the OW Daily shampoo only if there are a lot of styling residues. On dry hair apply 50% Hcolor + 50% water (better if it is distil). Choose the, nuance at half of chromatic scale, for instance from tone 9 to get 4 choose tone 6 and use always goldens-coppers, then 6.34.

50% of 6.34 + 50% of distil water . Apply this mix on the area. Leave on 20 minutes. Apply Hcatalyst 20 vol on the area. Leave on 10-20 minutes. Rinse and proceed with the colouring. Apply colour onto the root, lengths and ends for 30 – 35 minutes. After use Hbalance shampoo e Hbalance mask.

Changing a highlight Changing a highlight

If you want: Ash to Beige >> cold Golden to Copper >> gold Red to Purple >> warm Natural >> neutral

1. If you want to go from neutral to a golden or from a golden to a warm highlight, simply apply the desired colour over the existing colour. Always use the rules of colormetry.

2. Instead, when the goal is to go from a golden to a neutral or cold highlight, you have to use a golden ash or ash, the complementary colour (counter-colour)

3. In the most extreme cases, when you want to go from a red to a neutral or cold, it is necessary an ash tone

Ref. Newton Disk (Chapter 5).

Reinforcing a highlight Reinforcing a highlight This simple procedure is used to reinforce existing colours, for example when colours are faded on lengths and ends). With a retouch application, first apply the colour to the roots, then (after 20-25 minutes) apply the reinforcing colour by adding the pure colour into the mix already on lengths and ends. Rinse. Cleanse with Hbalance Shampoo and condition with Hbalance Mask.

33 Bleaching techniques

PRE-LIGHTENING

Pre-lightening is used to create a level suitable for the desired color. 10 It is a necessary procedure when lightening beyond the range of safety. Ê Using the doses indicated in the Hbleach product, hair is bleached until reaching the level of lightening corresponding to the level of tone desired. Ê Rinse. Wash with Hbalance shampoo and apply Hrestore. Ê Dry. Ammonia-free Ê Apply the nuance desired. Bleaching BLEACHING AND TONING

This procedure is used when we need to lighten over 6 tones and wish to achieve a very light blonde. Ê Lighten to a pale yellow. Ê Rinse. Wash with Hbalance Shampoo and condition with Hbalance Mask. Ê Choose a shade that has a good concentration (saturation) of pigments to neutralize the underlying pigment. Ê Mix the product (1:1 and 1/2) with 20 volume Hcatalyst. Ê Allow to develop 10-15 minutes. Check carefully during this interval. Ê Rinse. Wash with Hbalance Shampoo and condition with Hbalance Mask.

Decolorazione

38 Bleaching techniques

Hbleach

The WHITE FORMULA is designed for soft mèches and color remover.

The VIOLET FORMULA is used for intense highlights. he violet formula is used to counter yellowish hues.

Both formulas are scented with pleasant essences both for the hairstylist and for the client. Moreover, Hbleach has a DUST FREE composition which is non-volatile so that it cannot be inhaled during preparation and application.

Hbleach characteristics and application

Hbleach is an ammonia-free bleaching powder enriched with Perilla Oil, which contains flavonoids boasting antioxidant properties, and with Cotton Proteins for nourishing and reinvigorating the very depths of the hair shaft. Its properties prevent the hair structure from being excessively damaged and enhance its strength and elasticity during the bleaching treatment.

The advantages of Hbleach for hairstylists and their clients are evident since high bleaching performance can be obtained without using ammonia, typically contained in traditional bleaching products.

The substitute for ammonium persulphate is sodium persulphate. The substitute does not cause the typical ammonia smell in this case either, moreover the pH of the hair is lower than that after an application with a classic powder containing ammonia. This data helps us to understand why the use of Hbleach proves less aggressive to the hair fibre allowing us to bleach even the most damaged hair.

Hbleach has a formula designed to respect the protein properties of the hair fibre, which is left soft and strong even after bleaching.

It is a compact powder which needs to be mixed with an oxidising cream at 20 volumes for medium and fair bases, at 30 and 40 volumes for dark and very dark bases. Once mixed it becomes a very soft creamy product, which doesn’t drip.

Doses: 1 or 2 measures of compact powder according to the quantity of hair to be colored, about 60-120 cc. of oxidising cream 20, 30 and 40 volumes for each measure of compact powder used. The latter is enough to touch up regrowth and can be proportionally increased for total bleaching on the entire hair length. Processing time: from 20 to 45 minutes according to the intensity of bleaching required. This product has a progressive bleaching power.

39 Bleaching techniques

Schiaritura

Hcolor, Hcatalyst, Htone and Hbleach contain precious natural active ingredients:

Cotton Proteins

Cotton seeds are naturally rich in oils and proteins. Cotton is known for its high compatibility with skin and hair. Cotton proteins have excellent conditioning power and enhance hair softness. Hair looks healthier and shinier and is also easier to comb.

Bleaches perform an action to remove the natural color from hair. Perilla Oil This procedure creates a decomposition of melanin inside the hair, enabling the lightening that will obtain the desired effect. During this process, hair goes through different degrees of lightening, from red until it arrives at a pale yellow.

Example: if the level of tone desired is a 7, we only need to lighten to the 4th level of lightening (orange/yellow) and then use the color desired in a tone 7.

HBleach performs its function perfectly when prepared using 2 measuring spoons of powder: 100 ml of developer.

A phytotherapic plant from Chinese The development time to perform the complete function is 45 minutes. and Japanese traditional medicine rich in flavonoids with an allergy Use of a vaporizer may decrease development times; however, this must be preventing action. It is contained in done with extreme caution. Hcolor to protect the client’s skin and to reduce skin allergies and reddening. Between one procedure and the next, we recommend washing hair with Hbal- ance shampoo and using Hrestore. Finally, apply Hbalance shampoo and Hbalance mask.

40 Bleaching techniques

Htone Application

Virgin Hair: apply first to half lengths and ends, starting from the darkest part. Allow to develop until the color lightens to 2/3 of the desired result. Prepare the product again using 20 volumes and then apply to the regrowth. Retouching: apply the product only to the part that has grown out. Never use more than 20 volumes on the scalp. On lengths use 20-40 volumes of Hcatalyst. Start application with the darkest areas. Proceed as indicated in the instructions.

Lightening Levels 7 Yellow White 6 Yellow 5 Golden 4 Orange 3 Red Orange 2 Red 1 Red / Violet

Starting level

Hbleach is an Ammonia free bleaching powder and we get 4-5 lightening levels. To boost lightening, we advise doubling the procedure by repeating twice and decreasing the development time into 2 applications with a duration of 30 minutes (utilizing the maximum of 30 volumes).

41 Hsystem, at the service of perfect color

Hsystem, at the service of perfect color 11 Hsystem complements and perfects technical salon services. Four versatile products are available and ideal for every step in coloring. The formulas are rich in herbs and organic extracts, that promise perfect nourishment and the ideal pH balance for the hair fibre after the alkaline treatment.

This exclusive line contains all the experience and knowledge of Rolland Re- Hsystem, search to help safeguard the health of the hair and scalp. at the service Thanks to its special natural organic ingredients, such as Virgin Coconut oil and Orange Blossom extract, the Organic Way method handles every phase of perfect color of the technical service, guaranteeing maximum results and giving hair its full body and radiance.

Step in coloring

Apply drops of Hscreen on the customer’s skin (nape of the neck and temples) and on the hands of the person applying the treatment. Add 3-4 drops to the color mix before application, Blend Hcolor with the Hcatalyst activator or apply directly to the skin in the case of eczema, small wounds, or (or Htone) in a ratio of 1:1.5 depending sensitive areas. on the results you want to achieve.

After the appropriate application time, rinse thoroughly. Then, Spray thoroughly before proceeding with styling. apply Hbalance shampoo and massage. Do not rinse. Especially in cases of depleted and Rinse and repeat a second time. Apply Hbalance mask. damaged hair, apply Hrestore over all the hair, Apply to damp hair previously washed with Hbalance shampoo. while dry, and even in the PRE COLOR phase, Distribute Hbalance mask evenly and leave for 3-5 minutes. before using Hscreen. Rinse thoroughly.

42 Hsystem, at the service of perfect color

Hsystem

Hbalance Shampoo • Benefits: - Rebalances pH and neutralises alkaline residues following chemical treatments. - Intense cleansing, restorative and antioxidant action thanks to the Organic coconut oil and the Organic orange blossom extract. - Formula enriched by the precious Hydrahair O2 complex and Moringa extract, which prolong the hair’s shine and the duration of the color following technical treatments. - Has moisturising and nutritive properties that strengthen and protect the hair fibre, especially if sensitised.

Ê Use: after having rinsed the chemical treatment out of hair, apply and massage. Rinse thoroughly and repeat a second time. Apply Hbalance mask.

Hbalance Mask • Benefits: - Specific conditioning and detangling treatment, includes an acidity regulator that restores the correct pH value to hair, sealing the cuticle scales after technical services. The natural complex of organic components, such as Coconut oil and Orange blossom extract, offers an intense anti-oxidising, restora-tive, and revitalising action. - Enhances shine and protects the stability of the color, preventing it from fading. Guarantees excellent manageability, nourished, soft and healthy hair after any technical service. Helps rebuild hair without weighing it down.

Ê Use: apply to damp hair previously washed with Hbalance shampoo. Dis- tribute product evenly and leave for 3-5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Suggest for use only after alkaline treatments. Not indicated for daily use.

Hscreen • Benefits: - Exclusive formula that creates a specific protective film between the skin and the technical product. - Reduces the skin’s sensitivity, preventing possible spots, allergies and reddening of the skin of those who receive the treatment and on the sensitive hands of those who perform the chemical services. - Protects and prevents the formation of blisters, burns, or cuts on the skin. - The hairdresser can use it in any service without interfering in the chemical process or compromising the result. - Complex of Coconut oil, Orange Blossom extract and Perilla oil, all from organic sources, guarantees excellent protective, nourishing and anti-oxidising action. - It is an ideal protector for all technical services (coloring, lightening, permanent, straightening). - Removes residues of glycerine, fixative products, and synthetic polymers (see use) for deep-down cleansing of the hair stem.

43 Hsystem, at the service of perfect color

Hsystem - When applied to the weakened strands of very dry, damaged or dehydrated hair (see use), it visibly improves the appearance of the hair, which becomes healthy and shiny again. - It is easy to rinse away. Men can apply it after shaving to prevent dermatitis and folliculitis problems.

Ê Use: To prevent color blotches: apply to forehead, temples and nape before technical treatment.

To protect the skin or particular sensitive areas: add 3 or 4 drops to the chemical treatment or apply directly to the sensitive areas in question before application.

To protect the hands: apply a few drops to the hands and spread evenly before beginning the procedure.

To remove residues and achieve deep-down cleansing of the hair stem: apply to wet hair. Wear a cap and place under a heat source at medium temperature for 3 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and proceed with the specific Organic Way washing process.

Hrestore Benefits: - Light and versatile concentrate that restores hair protein. - The natural protein-based formula simulates hair keratin, providing structure and body to the hair fibre and acting as a porosity balancer. - Product suitable for all types of hair, especially following chemical treatments. Helps the color last longer. - Thanks to the organic complex of Coconut oil, Orange blossom extract and Coix Lacrima Jobi extract, it nourishes the hair deep down, improving its resistance. - Specific treatment rich in moisturising and vitalising substances that do not add heaviness to the hair. - Restores the elements lost through external, chemical and mechanical aggressions to the hair fibre, improving its cosmetic qualities. - Excellent pre-styling product. Improves styling pliability and protects from sources of heat.

Ê Use: spray on hair after any chemical treatment. Apply even before styling or while cutting. Do not rinse.

44 Hsystem, at the service of perfect color

HSystem

45 Hypercolor, a new dimension of development times

Hypercolor is a colour accelerator suitable for any type of hair colour. A revolution in the times of colour treatments in all salons. If applied under a source of heat reduces time by two thirds compared to the traditional methods, for example from 30 minutes to 10, without altering the 12 height of tone or the result. A total gain in terms of economic savings and in the speed of the service of- fered to the client. This innovative product enables you to employ fewer working hours, which in turn means the possibility of carrying out more treatments. Offers your clients the advantage of receiving a hair-colouring treatment with much shorter wait- ing times. Hypercolor, Hypercolor contains a blend of active principles and specific natural substances such as Olive oil, Monoi oil and Vitamin E, which make the highlights richer a new dimension and more intense in colour while preserving them through time. In addition, its particular formula protects the hair fiber from external agents of development and protect against the stress of heat and oxidation. times

Hypercolor

“Hypercolor contains a blend of active principles and specific natural substances such as Olive oil, Monoi oil and Vitamin E, which make the highlights richer and more intense in colour while preserving them through time.”

46 Hypercolor, a new dimension of development times

Action mechanism

Hypercolor protects the indirect pigments from the premature oxidation in the colouring mix. Consequently there will be a longer period in which the intermediate colouring agents can penetrate inside the cortex, before the oxidative reaction with the activator.

Hypercolor also contains a natural emulsifier that makes it possible to create a water-in-oil emulsion composed of finer particles. This particular nature of the formula increases the “wetting capacity” of the mixture on the hair fibre and improves the scale opening phase, allowing the intermediate colouring agents to penetrate more quickly to the inside.

Use

Instructions for use: “Hypercolor is in a 60 ml bottle, 1 ml = 30 drops. Add Hypercolor to the hair colouring mixture (colour + activator) according to the proportions: 30 ml = 5 drops, 90 ml = 15 drops, 120 ml = 20 drops, 180 ml For medium lenghts needs 20 drops, so the salon by a bottle = 30 drops. Hypercolor can be added to the mixture as follows: pour the co- of Hypercolor can realize lour required for the treatment into the bowl, then add the drops of Hypercolor 80 colouring treatments calculated based on the total colouring mix + activator (i.e. 20 drops if the (great economical gain). colouring mix + activator foreseen is 120 ml) and, finally, add the activator. Hypercolor can also be added following colour + activator. The important thing is that these three elements be added and mixed very quickly, without losing time. The completed mixture should be applied on the hair right away.

After applying the mixture of colour and the disposable cap, add low heat. Remove the source of heat and the cap. Let the hair cool before rinsing. De- creases the traditional application times from 30 minutes to 10 minutes, and from 45 minutes to 15 minutes.

NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Rice Bran Oil (Oryza Sativa) The oil that is extracted from rice contains a natural UV filter, filtering the harmful part of the sun’s rays that attack our hair every day. This natural filter contained in the oil is Gamma Oryzanol. Rice oil is also an excellent emollient and protective agent; it has a low degree of oiliness and is especially suited for cosmetic use.

Monoi Oil This oil is prepared in the Polynesian islands, steeping Tiare flowers in coconut oil. Historical documents attest to the existence and daily use of this scented oil in the Polynesian culture. This oil is the ideal product for the care and embellishment of the skin and hair. Excellent moisturiser and UV protector used alone or in combination with other vegetable-based oils.

Vitamin E Vitamin E has an antioxidant function, i.e. it impedes cell oxidation and the formation of free radicals, one of the biggest causes of damage to the hair. Free radicals are molecules damaged by external environmental causes and by continuous chemical treatments.

47 FAQs

Ê CAN I USE A DIFFERENT DEVE- do not develop completely; the co- LOPER THAN THAT RECOMMENDED lour has been applied to the lengths FOR EVERY HCOLOUR PRODUCT? and ends too late; the hair has an Substituting developers is never rec- extreme porosity that does not allow 13 ommended, since the components of the oxidizing pigments to remain in each developer have been formulated the fibres of the cortex; with bleached to work in synergy with its counterpart. or stressed hair, re-pigmentation was Hcatalyst and Htone are all much more not carried out before colouring; only than just hydrogen peroxides; they are highlight shade without the addition a complex blend of ingredients with of natural shade was used in case of natural active components and fea- a high percentage of grey, difficult to ture a specific pH to ensure viscosity, treat hair; incorrect application with Frequency Ask nourishment to the hair and colour per- an insufficient quantity of product Question formance to each Hcolour and Htone especially in porous areas. product they correspond to. Ê HOW DO I AVOID COLOUR Ê IS THE LIGHTENING Ê HOW CAN I INCREASE COVE- FROM ENDING UP TOO DARK? ACTION INCREASED IF I RAGE IF I FAIL TO OBTAIN THE Check that the ratio with the devel- INCREASE THE RATIO FROM DESIRED RESULT? oper is correct, that the correct de- 1:2 TO 1:3? If coverage of grey/white hair is not veloper was used, if there was an Hcolour has been formulated for perfect, then something in the appli- incorrect diagnosis, that the shade use at 1: 1 1⁄2. If we need to light- cation has gone wrong. Please see chose was to dark or the starting en more, we suggest increasing the chapter “Special Applications”: colour was not evaluated correctly; the volumes, incorporating the the highlight shade was used with- pre-pigmentation or re-pigmentation 0.0 corrector or using the Super- out mixing it with the natural or warm was correct, or that the develop- lightening series. series; the mixture did not use a 1:1 ment time was incorrect because it ratio; the product was not applied im- was too long. Ê HOW MUCH IS THE LIGH- mediately; in case of a very notice- TENING ACTION INCREASED able zone of grey hair that is difficult Ê WHY DID THE COLOUR END BY USING THE 0.0 CORREC- to treat, the pre-pigmentation step UP TOO LIGHT? TOR? was not carried out; the shade used The colour was not mixed with the It depends on the percentage was too light, the development time developer in the ratio 1:11⁄2 (less used even 2 levels (tones). was not observed, the colour was dis- colour and more developer); an oxi- tributed inadequately and irregularly; dizer in too low a concentration was Ê HOW DO I PROPORTION if the roots were to be covered, the used (e.g., instead of 20 volumes, 30 THE QUANTITY OF COR- colour was distributed too fast along volumes was used); there was an in- RECTOR? the lengths and ends, making the correct diagnosis: too light a shade The best results are obtained roots appear lighter and the lengths was chosen, incorrect evaluation on by substituting up to 6% of the and ends darker (colour overload); the base to start from; pre-pigmenta- Hcolour cream with the correc- the hair was too dirty and oily (better tion was done with a colour that was tor. Using less than 6% will not to do a delicate pre-wash with OW too light; re-pigmentation was done produce very visi-ble results. Daily Shampoo); the mixture used with a nuance that was too light. a developer with low volumes with Ê CAN I USE THE CORREC- respect to the residues of natural co- Ê WHY DOES THE COLOUR AP- TORS BY THEMSELVES? lour (insufficient lightening of natural PEAR DULL OR OPAQUE? The correctors have been formu- hair in case of salt and pepper hair). If 100% of the grey/hair is to be cov- lated to be used in combination ered, we recommend adding 10% of with the Hcolor shades. If used Ê HOW CAN I PREVENT THAT THE a golden nuance; if the starting base alone, they may give transparent, COLOUR DOESN’T HOLD WELL? was light, perhaps too cold a nuance incomplete results. Check that: the development time is was chosen; the superlightener co- correct - if it is too short, the pigments lour, ash or beige, when applied to

48 FAQs

the regrowth was distributed along Ethanolamine instead of ammonia. nothing will happen in case a few previously lightened lengths and Ethanolamine is a component with more drops of colour end up in the ends; the pre-pigmentation of grey different chemical-physical struc- bowl, but an excessive amount is hair was done with cold nuances. ture with respect to ammonia. to be avoided. Its molecular weight is greater than Ê WHAT WAS THERE AN OVER- ammonia’s and as a result, there is Ê CAN HSCREEN ALTER THE LOAD OF COLOUR? no evaporation of amines, no un- FORMULA OF THE COLOUR? The colouring mixture was distrib- pleasant odours, and no physical Hscreen protects the scalp and uted too soon on lengths and ends; intolerances caused by breathing does not alter the formula or the mix for difficult hair was applied in ammonium hydrates. performance of the colour in to the lengths and ends that were al- This molecule that replaces am- any way. ready coloured. monia, because it is larger, remains and acts on the surface of Ê IF LENGTHS AND ENDS the cuticle and is less aggressive TURNED OUT LIGHTER, WHAT to the cortex. WENT WRONG IN THE APPLICA- The substitute of ammonium per- TION? sulphate in Hbleach is sodium The colour mixture was distributed persulphate. Here too, the sub- too late along the lengths and ends, stitute does not cause the clas- and the degree of fading was not sic ammonia odour and the pH evaluated properly; in the case of of the hair remains lower than an stressed hair, re-pigmentation was application with classic powder not performed before colouring; the containing ammonia. lengths and ends are so porous that the pigments do not take hold even Ê HOW CAN I INCREASE THE with a re-pigmentation, therefore an GOLDEN HIGHLIGHT WHEN CO- OW Reconstruction treatment should VERING GREY/WHITE HAIR? be performed. You can add golden corrector up to a maximum of 6% of the mixture. Ê THE COLOUR WAS DARKER IN THE OUTLINES AT FRONT. Ê HOW CAN I INCREASE THE WHAT WENT WRONG? ASH HIGHLIGHT? The pre-pigmentation was incorrect, You can add the ash corrector up to the nuance selected was too dark; a maximum of 6% of the mixture. application was incorrect, first in front, then in back. Ê CAN I USE HYPERCOLOUR WHEN BLEACHING? Ê THE COLOUR IRRITATED We recommend using Hypercolour THE SCALP OF THE CUSTOMER. with colour treatments using oxidiza- WHY? tion and not with bleaching, which Either the scalp is not whole, or there is a process that must be controlled is balding, the mixture ratio was not visually and for which is difficult to observed (more colour, less oxi- establish the reduction of time with dizer), incorrect application, i.e., hair precision. combed closed to the head during development time. Ê IF MORE DROPS OF HYPER- COLOUR GO INTO THE BOWL BY Ê WHAT IS USED IN PLACE OF MISTAKE, WHAT WILL HAPPEN AMMONIA IN HCOLOUR AND TO THE COLOUR? HBLEACH? Hypercolour is a mixture containing Hcolour’s special formula contains many oils that nourish the hair, so

49 Glossary

Ê COLOR CLEANSING Ê INTERCELLULAR Procedure used to stop previ- PEROXIDASE ously used progressive dyes from Reaction caused by external agents becoming active and processing that cause the loosening of bonds 14 again. between proteins and lipids. Ê COLOR REMOVAL Ê LEVEL Technique used to remove color In hair coloring it is used to refer to pigments in hair. the degree of lightness or darkness of the hair on a scale from 1 to 10: 1 Ê CONTIGUOUS being the darkest and 10 being the Touching and remaining in contact. lightest.

Glossary Ê MORDANTING PROCESS Ê MELANIN Technique used to increase hair’s Dark brown or black pigments receptiveness to consequent cos- found in the hair cortex that creates metic services. natural hair color. Melanin is also found in skin. Ê DEVELOPER Is an oxidizing agent, such as hy- Ê POROSITY drogen peroxide, that provides the The ability to absorb water. necessary oxygen for the formation of color molecules and the lighten- Ê PRE-LIGHTEN ing of melanin. The removal of hair pigments, natural or artificial, in preparation Ê DOMINANT PIGMENT for the application of a different The underlying pigment that tone or level. becomes increasingly visible when hair is lightened. Ê PRE-PIGMENTATION Technique of applying pure color Ê DOUBLE PROCESS to resistant high grey areas, before Is generally referred to the color- applying the target shade formula. ing of hair when two services are required in order to achieve the Ê RE-PIGMENTATION desired result, i.e. bleaching and Technique used on lightened hair toning. to replace lost warm pigments before proceeding with the application Ê ELASTICITY of a darker tone. The ability to stretch and return to the original length or form. Ê SAFETY RANGE A range of levels in which natural Ê EPIDERMIS hair can be lightened or The skins outermost layer. darkened in one process with 100% control. Ê EXTENSIBILITY The ability to stretch out while Ê SATURATION remaining intact. The amount of color intermediates deposited in the hair . Ê FREE RADICALS A molecule generated by the Ê SQUAMAE organism that provokes cellular A layer of very thin flattened cells; damage. scales.

Ê HYDROGEN PEROXIDE Ê TARGET SHADE Oxidizing agent. The desired finished color result. The aim. Ê HYDROPHILLIC Having a tendency to be filled with or be wetted by water.

50 Note www.rolland.it