technicalbook Index Ê Introduction Ê 3. Basic Principles Ê 5. Correctors and to hair color of Hair Coloring Superlighteners ß Light and the law of color ß When and how to use them Ê 1. Permanent Hair Color ß Color theory without ammonia from OW Ê 6. Hair Color ß Hcolor, Hcatalyst and Htone Ê 4. The world of Hcolor ß Hair Color ß Series and shades Ê 2. Hair Structure Ê 7. The Developers ß Hair structure ß The Developers ß Melanin and color saturation ß Porosity and pH Index Ê 8. Application Factors Ê 10. Ammonia-Free Ê 12. Hypercolor for Perfect Hair Color Bleaching ß A new dimension of ß Application techniques ß Bleaching techniques development times Ê 9. Methods and Special Ê 11. Hsystem Ê 13. Faq Applications ß At the Service ß FAQs ß Special Applications of perfect color Ê 14. Glossary ß Glossary Introduction to hair color Coloring hair is not a recent “need”, but it is a human desire that is part of our Introduction history. The use of dyes was a frequent practice among Egyptians, Romans and Greeks. All dyes were of vegetable origin, such as henna, indigo, saf- to hair fron and chamomile. Adopting complicated techniques and bearing inconve- niences and risks, peoples of the past subjected themselves to treatments color that were essentially effective in the hope of transforming the color of their natural hair. During the Renaissance, hair dyeing procedures were often similar to the processes used for dyeing materials. The simplest way was to sit in the sun Possessing a thorough knowledge with an infusion of chamomile spread over the head but with face covered to of hair color means to embrace a prevent the skin from becoming tanned, which would have been an undesi- whole world of theory, experience, rable effect. Other methods involved combining herbs, acids and sometimes fashion, analyses of physiological metallic salts, which lightened the hair to the point of altering its structure. Of aspects and other considerations course, the so-called “collateral effects” of these processes were not even regarding personal identity. taken in consideration. This handbook seeks to be a valua- ble tool for the hair stylist who bases With the passing of time and changes in customs there was an increase in his profession and success on this knowledge and discovery in hair coloring techniques; the steady pace of ex- body of knowledge. perimentation, clear proof of a strong aesthetic desire to alter the natural color In the following pages, Rolland will of both men’s and women’s hair, encouraged further research. This process address hair color concepts through of study led to success in the creation of products we currently use today. the presentation of Hcolor, the am- monia-free ORGANIC WAY color In addition to the need to cover grey hair, there was as desire to change the system, a line of products that allow color of the hair to be in vogue or to satisfy a personal desire. In the past, hair stylists around the world to offer customers an enjoyable, the choice of hair color was conditioned by social class, cultural norms and safe technical service also by technological limitations. Although fashion influences society by such that gives perfect results. means as fashion shows and mass media, we are free to express our per- sonality by making choices that best reflect our identity. Learning the secrets of colorimetry and knowing how to making the best possible diagnosis of the situation allow today’s hair styling professionals to express the highest calibre of their professionalism. Guaranteeing quality means eliminating the effect of surprise. It is essential to be fully knowledgeable on the subtle variations from one hair base to a- nother, and on the enormous difference that these variations can play in the final result. This handbook has the aim of enriching the knowledge of those who, by choosing Rolland Organic Way Hcolor, have selected a hair color line that expresses the desire of customers and salon professionals for a different, enjoyable hair coloring process thanks to its no-ammonia content. In the next few chapters, we will take an in-depth analysis of this complete, innovative, and high-performance line that changes the concept of hair color produced and perceived by the customer and the salon professional. Organic Way with Hcolor boosts the creative spirit in the salon and ensures customers a well- ness that derives from the use of an ammonia-free product. In addition to the presentation of the line, this handbook serves as a valuable guide to color theory and an essential tool to guarantee the customer a perfect result. Hcolor, Hcatalyst and Htone Hcolor is the color with permanent oxidation without ammonia and it is marketed as a scented cream in 100 ml tubes. There are a good 89 different colors in the color chart divided in 19 series: a variety of shades that distinguishes this permanent hair color without ammo- 1 nia from its market competitors. Such a variety allows for a huge colorimetric range due to the fact that the shades can be mixed together. This means that any coloring procedure fashion “dictates” or the client re- quires can be carried out in the salon. Its more delicate formula significantly reduces the risks of sensitization and respiratory and skin allergies. With Hcolor the technical procedure is Permanent hair pleasant and safe. It’s delicate, pleasing perfume and the lack of ammonia guarantees excellent color without air quality and breathability in the salon. Ammonia With the unpleasant smells gone the client perceives the color treatment from Ow as different from any previous experience of traditional permanent color treatments. Hcolor “Hcolor is the color with permanent oxidation without ammonia and it is marketed as a scented cream in 100 ml tubes. There are a good 89 diffe- rent colors in the color chart divided in 19 series: a variety of shades that distinguishes this permanent hair color without ammonia from its market competitors” Hcatalyst Htone Hcolor, Hcatalyst and Htone Hcolor gives the hair more shine than traditional coloring. It guarantees 100% white hair coverage with long lasting results and its bleaching power is 3 tones and up to 4 tones with the superlighteners. Hcolor’s special formula uses ethanolamine instead of ammonia. Ethanolamine is a component with a different physico-chemical structure to ammonia. Its molecular weight is higher than that of ammonia and because of this evaporation of amines does not occur, thus unpleasant smells in the salon and olfactory intolerance due to the breathing in of ammonia hydrates are prevented. This ammonia replacing molecule is larger and so stays and acts on the surface of the cuticle causing less damage to the cortex. Thanks to this substance and to Hcolor’s particular formula, which was designed in the Rolland Laboratories to be able to guarantee the best possible performance as far as the hair fibre is concerned, the hair pH undergoes less destabilization compared to a traditional ammonia- based hair color. Hcolor maintains the hair pH lower (at least one percentage point is gained compared to ammo- nia-based formula) and therefore proves less damaging to the hair fibre, with less desquamation of the cuticle. Exclusive high quality micro pigments guarantee stable, long-lasting results but also intense, vibrant shades. Each color is rich in pigments and this allows intense and extremely attractive highlights (from a cosmetic point of view) to be created. Thanks to its stable formula there is no need for thickening agents. After the product has been opened there is no risk of oxidation, which can, however, occur with gel or oil-based formulas. Ethanolamine “Hcolor’s special formula uses Ethanolamine instead of ammonia. Ethanolamine is a component with a different physico-chemical structure to ammonia. ” The formula contains organic Perilla Oil extremely rich in Omega 3 and flavo- noids boasting antioxidant and anti-allergy properties. In order to leave the hair soft and extraordinarily healthy the mix has been Perilla Oil enriched with the precious Cotton Proteins for nourishing and reinvigorating the very depths of the hair shaft. Hcolor needs to be mixed with the developers Hcatalyst and Htone fol- lowing the ratio of 1 part color cream to 1 and 1/2 part developer. A dilution at a ratio of 1 + 1 is recommended in order to fully emphasize its covering power and at the same time enhance shades. With Hcolor the hairstylist won’t change his or her hairstyling rituals because it’s free of the risks associated with the application of laborious formulas. Cotton Hcatalyst is a perfumed cream developer, which is perfectly stabilised according to the volumes given: 20, 30 and 40 volumes. Hcatalyst guarantees perfect viscosity with the color cream. Htone is an extra delicate milk toner designed to color and to enhance highlights and lowlights. It has extremely low volumes and it is specifically designed for Hcolor tone on tone coloring (when the base color is not to be changed,) or used in greater dilutions to tone highlights and lowlights in order to counter yellowish hues or to enhance previous highlights. For Hcolor tone on tone coloring it should be diluted at a ratio of 1 part Hcolor + 1 and 1/2 parts Htone. 3 Hair structure In biological terms, hair is a filiform structure of keratin that originates in the epider- mis. Like the fingernails, hair performs an important protective function and can be considered an appendage of the skin. Keratin, while not living, is connected to the 2 vital processes of the skin and the entire body. Being fully familiar with the structure of the hair, its porosity, texture and pH is basic to achieving a positive result in the hair coloring service.