CODE of COLOR CODE of COLOR COLOR THEORY Color Perception 2 the Color Wheel 3 the Language of Hair Color 4

CODE OF COLOR CODE OF COLOR COLOR THEORY Color Perception 2 The Color Wheel 3 The Language Of Hair Color 4

ANATOMY The Anatomy of Hair 6 Hair Strand Structure 7 Hair Strand Growth 8 Hair Strand Growth Cycle 9 Hair Strand Abundance 10 Hair Strand Formation 11 Hair Strand Coloration 12 Hair Strand Condition 14

HAIR COLOR TECHNOLOGY Hair Color Chemical Attributes 15 Hair Color Developer Attributes 17 Choosing And Understanding Color Systems 18

6.17.19 COLOR THEORY

COLOR PERCEPTION The human eye interprets color in a unique way. Our perception of color is ruled by light wavelengths, and how they absorb or reflect from a surface. Our eyes are sensitive to light, so color perception depends on how individual light wavelengths react to a surface, creating visible light. Humans see hair color based on how individual light wavelengths are absorbed or reflect from each hair strand. Color Perceptions WHITE LIGHT SPECTRUM The electromagnetic spectrum of light that passes through our atmosphere is known as the visible (or white light) spectrum. The white light spectrum is a combination of all visible saturated color wavelengths the human eye and brain can distinguish. Black is a total absence of light. LIGHT WAVELENGTHS & COLOR The visible spectrum corresponds directly to individual light wavelengths, ranging from 400 to 700 nanometers (nm), and a color range of violet through dark red. Every surface absorbs, diffuses, combines and/or reflects each light wavelength, enabling the human eye and brain to perceive color.

With up to a 700 nm wavelength range, dark red is longest. As red dominates all other wavelengths, the human eye is naturally drawn to red (or warmth). This is why salon guests usually notice gold and red tones. It also explains why red color seems to fade more quickly than other tones; the loss of those light wavelengths has a more dramatic visual impact. At 400 nm, violet has the shortest wavelength, and the human eye has a struggle seeing lighter levels that are cooler. Based on this simple fact, a colorist must be more “aggressive” with decolorizer, prior to applying a glaze to refine warmth. Wavelength & Color 2 THE COLOR WHEEL As with art, hair color formulation and final results are ruled by the color wheel. We use three categories to formulate color. These categories help determine tonal value (warm or cool): Primary, Secondary and Tertiary.

PRIMARY COLOR There are three primary colors on the color wheel: Yellow, Blue and Red. Primary colors are pure and cannot be produced by com- bining other colors. The color wheel range then expands through the combination of two primary colors in various percentages. The only exception to this is neutral (or brown to tan), which is a combination of all three primary colors in balanced percentages, depending on their saturation level (dark to light).

SECONDARY COLOR There are three secondary colors created by an equal blend of two primary colors.

Yellow / Red = Orange Blue / Yellow = Green Blue / Red = Violet

3 Color Wheel COLOR THEORY

TERTIARY COLOR Yellow / Green = Yellow + Blue There are six tertiary colors on the color Blue / Green = Blue + Yellow wheel created by an equal blend of one Blue / Violet = Blue + Red primary and one secondary color. Red / Violet = Red + Blue Red / Orange = Red + Yellow Yellow / Orange = Yellow + Red ENHANCING COLOR To intensify or magnify a color, add more of the desired tone. For example, if you want to make Red / Violet appear more red, add red to your formula. If you want to make Blue/Green appear more green, add green to your formula. NEUTRALIZING COLOR In the event you would like to neutralize or counteract warmth, use the complementary color located directly across the color wheel. For example, to neutralize orange, you would add blue to your formula. Visualize bringing two complementary colors to an even balance, creating neutral (balanced parts yellow, blue and red). OVER-CORRECT To apply a correction in excess of what is required. For example: if hair is at a pale level 9 and the desired result is violet/blue hair; add violet /blue to over-correct and add more dramatic/extreme coolness.

THE LANGUAGE OF HAIR COLOR Understanding the language of hair color is the key to simplified formulation and exceptional results. There are three primary terms used when discussing hair color: Hue – This is the name of a color – red, brown, blonde, etc. Saturation – This is the amount of absorption, or depth of lightness or darkness (levels 1 through 10). Tone – This is the combination of light wavelengths that reflect from the hair strand creating color.

4 NATURAL HAIR STRAND LEVEL & UNDERTONE As discussed earlier in this manual, hair level is determined by the saturation (or depth) of lightness and darkness. Each level of saturation in the natural hair strand reveals its melanin tone, referred to as the undertone. The undertone of the natural hair strand is revealed when lifting natural or artificial color. Undertone must be considered in every color formulation. When lifting (lightening) the hair strand, the undertone is exposed at each level. As the wavelength of light shifts with each level, so does the perception of warmth. This is caused by more red and fewer violet light wavelengths reflecting from the hair strand at each level. The most dramatic example of this is the visual warmth revealed at level 7 and above. The measurement of saturation level (dark to light) remains consistent – only the tone shifts as levels change. However, there may be a slight variation of tone at each level based on the hair strand concentration of eumelanin or pheomelanin. This phenomenon presents slight variation, but the exposed undertone remains in the same range referenced below.

LEVEL & UNDERTONE

UNDERTONE EXPOSED NEUTRALIZING LEVEL DESCRIPTION WHEN LIFTING BASE 10 Lightest Blonde Palest Yellow Violet 9 Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet

8 Medium Blonde Yellow Violet

7 Dark Blonde Orange + Yellow Blue + Violet

6 Darkest Blonde Orange Blue

5 Light Brown Red + Orange Green + Blue

4 Medium Brown Red Green

3 Dark Brown Red Violet Green + Yellow

2 Darkest Brown Blue Violet NONE 1 Black Blue NONE 5 ANATOMY

THE ANATOMY OF HAIR Humans grow hair everywhere on the body, except on the soles of our feet, the palms of our hands and our eyelids (with the exception of our eyelashes). Like skin, our hair is a stratified squamous keratinized epithelium made of multi-layered flat cells whose rope-like filaments provide structure and strength to the hair strand.

HAIR STRAND COMPOSITION Human hair is comprised of six key components that provide overall health and manageability.

70-90 % Protein • Keratinized Protein creates strength and resilience in hair

10-15% Moisture • Natural moisture softens hair and adds flexibility

3-6% Lipid Oils • Lipids keep hair soft and supple

1% Pigment • The natural melanin pigments in hair absorb UV light and add color

.05-.5% Minerals • Minerals are residual elements in hair

.1-.5% Carbohydrates • Carbohydrates serve as the intercellular cement in hair that binds the hair strand together

Hair Structure

6 HAIR STRAND STRUCTURE

The root of the hair shaft is located below the surface of the scalp. Once hair leaves the root, it is a compilation of fully keratinized cells. Though no Hair Structure longer living, these cells are bound together in three layers.

THE CUTICLE This is the outermost layer of the hair strand and serves as a protective barrier, shielding the inner layers from environmental damage. The cuticle layer consists of overlapping transparent scale-like cells, resembling the shingles on a roof. A healthy, compact cuticle layer adds shine and luster to a hair strand. An unhealthy, damaged cuticle layer appears dull and rough. It is difficult to maintain consistent color vibrancy on hair with a damaged cuticle layer.

THE CORTEX Consisting of approximately 90% of the hair strand, the cortex layer is the fibrous protein core that provides strength, elasticity and natural color with melanin pigment. Permanent oxidative hair color, and all other permanent salon services alter the cellular structure within the cortex.

THE MEDULLA This is the innermost layer of the hair strand, and is not affected by salon services. Very fine and light blonde hair are usually lacking a medulla layer.

7 ANATOMY

HAIR STRAND GROWTH Human hair grows at an average of 1.25 centimeters (½ inch) per month, or 15 centimeters (6 inches) per year. As the hair grows, environmental influences such as heat styling or chemical alteration affect the overall health of the hair strand. For optimum service results, divide the hair strand into three sections.

PROXIMAL NEW GROWTH Closest to the scalp, the proximal new growth of the hair strand is most vulnerable to chemical aggressors. This ¼ to ½ inch of new hair strand growth reacts to our natural body heat and responds differently to hair color and other in-salon services.

MEDIAL MID-LENGTHS The medial portion of the hair strand extends beyond the proximal new growth. If present, the medial mid-lengths react differently to hair color, as there is little-to-no natural body heat. Other influencer such as previous hair color services, damage from styling tools, and/or other environmental aggressors can alter hair color results in this section of the hair strand.

DISTAL POROUS ENDS The distal porous ends extend past the shoulders, beyond the medial mid-lengths, and must be considered in hair color formulation. If present, their integrity may have been chemically or mechanically stripped through repeat decolorization, hair color services or excessive heat styling. Hair Strand Growth

8 HAIR STRAND GROWTH CYCLE Hair follows a specific growth cycle with four distinct and concurrent phases: anagen, catagen, telogen and exogen. All four phases occur simultaneously where one strand of hair may be in the anagen phase, while another is in the exogen phase. Understanding the hair strand growth cycle explains why some guests have hair that grows in uneven patterns, or they experience extreme hair loss.

ANAGEN PHASE CATAGEN PHASE TELOGEN PHASE EXOGEN PHASE The growing phase that This is a transitional phase Lasting approximately This is the transitional determines the length of where the hair follicle three months, the talogen phase between the a hair strand. The anagen shrinks and detaches phase is a resting period old hair shedding phase lasts an average of from the dermal papilla. for hair strand growth. and new hair growth. two to seven years. This phase lasts about During this phase, the A healthy human “old” hair rests in place ten days. sheds 50 to 150 while a new hair begins hairs daily. its growth phase. Only around 10% to 15% of human hair is in the telogen phase at any time. 9 ANATOMY

HAIR STRAND ABUNDANCE Density, Texture and Porosity play a significant role in formulating hair color. Each must be considered for optimum results in a color service.

DENSITY This is the measurement of individual hair strands per square inch (2.5 cm) of the scalp. The average hair density is about 2,200 hairs per square inch. The human head is approximately 120 square inches (770 cm) and has about 100,000 hair strands. Blondes average the most hairs per square inch, and Redheads average the least.

TEXTURE The circumference of the hair follicle determines hair strand texture. As the circumference of the hair follicle expands, so does the thickness of the hair strand. There is no relation between texture and density in human hair. Some may have dense hair with a fine hair strand, and some may have lower density (less hair per square inch) with a thick hair strand.

POROSITY Hair strand porosity determines its ability to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer and can influence the final results of a color service. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is considered resistant, and requires a higher alkaline solution to permit even saturation. Porous hair with a raised cuticle layer requires a lower alkaline solution with a lower pH to protect the integrity of the hair strand and achieve optimum results.

10 Properly identifying texture and porosity helps determine color service type, level, and developer. The easiest way to determine the porosity of hair is to take a small section of several hair strands in four areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown and nape). Hold each strand firmly with one hand, and using your thumb and index finger of the other hand, slide from the distal ends to the scalp. If the hair is smooth and slick, it most likely has a compact cuticle layer and will be resistant. If the hair is rough, it is most likely porous.

HAIR STRAND FORMATION While the hair follicle size governs texture, its shape determines hair strand formation. Humans generally have one of three types of formation: straight, wavy, or curly.

STRAIGHT HAIR STRAND FORMATION A round hair follicle produces a straight formation. Straight hair tends to be very soft, shiny, and poor at hold- ing curl. Straight hair generally has a compact cuticle layer and is difficult to damage.

WAVY HAIR STRAND FORMATION A more oval hair follicle usually produces a wavy “S” patterned hair strand. Density and porosity determine color results, but wavy hair generally holds style well better than a smooth average cuticle layer.

CURLY HAIR STRAND FORMATION The flatter the hair follicle becomes, the curlier the hair strand grows. This is because the shape of the hair follicle allows more cysteine to compact together, resulting in a bent shape. With every additional disulfide bond, the shape becomes curlier in form. Curly hair presents an “S” pattern and tends to combine thickness, fullness, body and/or frizziness. The cuticle layer of curly hair strands generally ranges from average to porous. 11 ANATOMY

HAIR STRAND COLORATION NATURAL LEVEL SYSTEM As in art, the level system for hair is a measurement that determines the saturation LEVEL 10 (or depth) of the lightness or darkness of a color. Whether determining the Virgin Natural Level or the Color Treated Existing Level, always use the L’ANZA Healing LEVEL Color Level Finder. 9 LEVEL • Hold the Natural Level Finder so the numbers are not facing upwards. 8 • Select 2 to 3 swatches close to the level of the hair. Remember that warm hair tones may LEVEL appear lighter and cool tones darker, so it’s important to evaluate the actual level. 7 • Using your fingers, spread the fibers on the swatch and blend it into the hair to make the best evaluation. LEVEL 6 • Select the best match, then flip the tab over to view the level. LEVEL Proper use of the L’ANZA Healing Color Level Finder ensures accuracy when 5 formulating. As level interpretation may vary from manufacturer to manufactur- LEVEL er, using a level finder guarantees you are on target. If you are off a level or two, 4 your formulation and final result will be off as well. LEVEL 3 GRAY VS. WHITE HAIR Generally associated with aging, gray or white hair is lacking pigmentation and LEVEL 2 melanin. Beyond the natural aging process, ethnic heritage, albinism, thyroid defi- ciencies, Waardenburg syndrome or a Vitamin B12 deficiency can also be contrib- LEVEL 1 utors to loss of pigmentation, causing hair to become gray. LEVEL To determine the percentage of gray hair, use the Percentage Of Gray Finder 0 in the back of your L’ANZA Healing Color Swatch Binder or Shade Book. Like the Natural Level Finder, this tool helps you correctly formulate a hair color to Natural Level System neutralize or enhance the natural gray coloration of the hair strand (discussed 12 later in this manual). NATURAL MELANIN PIGMENTS • EUMELANIN is the melanin There are two main types of natural melanin pigments to that lends black and brown understand when coloring hair. colors to hair. A low concentration of brown eumelanin results in blonde hair, where- Eumelanin is the darker pigment Phaeomelanin is the lighter and is responsible for brown and pigment and is responsible for as a higher concentration of black hair colors. blonde and red hair colors. brown eumelanin colors the hair brown. High amounts of black eumelanin result in black hair, while low concentrations result in gray hair.

• PHEOMELANIN is the melanin that gives blonde and red colors to hair. All humans have some pheomelanin in Dark brown hair will have Blonde and copper hair will have • High levels of Eumelanin • High levels of Phaeomelanin their hair. It is more chem- • Low levels of Phaeomelanin • Low levels of Eumelanin ically stable than black eumelanin, but less chemically stable than brown eumelanin. When oxidized, pheom- Levels of melanin vary over time, causing a person’s hair color to elanin breaks down more change. It is possible for a person to have a combination of light slowly, revealing a reddish pheomelanin rich, and dark eumelanin rich hair strands on their tone in darker hair during the lightening process. Whether head at the same time. This is difficult to detect with the naked using decolorizer or a high- eye, but is why some natural level 7’s lift cool and some lift warm. lift tint, pheomelanin contin- ues to break down during the lightening process. Hair gradually becomes orange, 13 then yellow, and finally white. ANATOMY

HAIR STRAND CONDITION Whether the hair strand is virgin or previously chemically altered, condition and integrity determine the final result of a color service.

VIRGIN (NATURAL) Healthy virgin hair has good porosity and elasticity. Hair strand abundance and formation determine color formulation, and is generally easiest to formulate for optimum results.

VIRGIN SENSITIZED Just because a hair strand hasn’t been previously colored doesn’t mean it is in optimal condition. External aggressors such as excessive heat from hot tools, sun, abrasion from hair ties, rough combing/brushing, hard water, chlorine, minerals and medication can alter the condition of virgin hair. Sensi- tized virgin hair should be treated according to pre-treatment protocols described later in this manual, for optimum color results.

COLOR TREATED A previously color treated hair strand requires a specific approach to color application. Levels of alkalinity and pH should be taken into consideration during formulation to maintain optimum hair strand health, and final color results.

14 HAIR COLOR TECHNOLOGY

HAIR COLOR CHEMICAL ATTRIBUTES What is in the bottle or tube of hair color you are using? Each color system or brand infuses special nuances that make their color unique. Pigment levels, alkali percentages and conditioning agents vary from system to system, but the overall science is universal to all hair color brands.

COLORANTS These are the color pigments or dyes used to create the final tone (shade). There are two types of colorants used in hair color.

DIRECT DYE Direct dyes are large pre-formed dye molecules that need no source of oxygen to express their tonality. Generally, they sit on top of the hair strand as a stain, or penetrate the cuticle layer slightly. Direct dyes may also be used in conjunction with oxidative color as an assistant to color perception. In permanent hair color, direct dyes are usually used to enhance and brighten tone.

OXIDATIVE DYE Oxidative dyes are the binding of small colorless (undeveloped) pigments that require an oxygen source to express their tonality. When mixed with an alkali source, oxidative dye molecules penetrate past the cuticle into the cortex and chemically change, creating a new tone. The two connecting sources of undeveloped pigment and oxygen are also referred to as Primaries and Couplers. The most effective way to permanently change the natural color of a hair strand (cover gray, lighten and/or permanently change tone) is to use an oxidative dye. This allows the colorist to lift and deposit color through a chemical alteration of the cortex and its natural level of melanin. 15 ALKALI - AMMONIA OR FIXED ALKALI (MEA): The average pH of human hair is between 4.5 and 5.5. A hair strand kept in this range remains healthy with a compact cuticle layer to protect the cortex. During the permanent and demi-permanent color and lightening process, the pH level of a hair strand must be raised to an alkaline level (higher than its natural pH). Raising the pH level of a hair strand causes it to soften and swell, forcing the protective cuticle layer open. This process allows lightening or darkening of the hair strand through the deposit of new hair color pigments. There are several types of alkaline derivatives, though the most commonly used in hair color are ammonia and fixed alkalis. An example of a fixed alkali is MEA (Monoethanolamine).

The level of the hair color being used and the desired level of lift determines where each alkali source sets in their individual pH alteration. Higher lift colors and decolorizers create higher levels of pH in the hair strand. Both ammonia and MEA significantly raise the pH in a hair strand, and both can cause damage if aggressively misused. It is also important to note that many color brands (and their respective decolorizers) contain both ammonia and MEA.

SURFACTANTS These are commonly used in shampoo to lower the surface tension between the hair strand and dirt/ debris. They act as a gentle detergent in hair color to help rinse processed color from the hair strand.

CHELATORS These bind the color molecules and “break through” small amounts of build-up on the hair strand.

16 HAIR COLOR TECHNOLOGY

STABILIZERS These maintain alkali levels in the color for consistent and predictable results. ANTIOXIDANTS These prevent the accumulation of oxygen in the bottle/tube. Oxygen can cause the color to begin its oxidation process prior to color application. CONDITIONERS These protect hair strand strength and infuse moisture, reducing damage during the color process.

HAIR COLOR DEVELOPER ATTRIBUTES Developer, when mixed with the alkali in hair color, creates a catalyst to processing during a color service. The combination of developer and hair color enables the effectiveness of alkali, oxidative color and the deposit of colorants during a color service. Hair color developer contains hydrogen peroxide that decomposes over time, and releases oxygen. One volume of hydrogen peroxide makes 20 volumes of oxygen; this is why a color formula is strongest when first mixed. The percentage of hydrogen peroxide in a developer determines how long oxygen is released, and in some cases can alter the processing time of a color service. Hydrogen peroxide also reduces and fractures melanin in the hair strand, exposing natural undertone (also referred to as warmth). Developer is measured by its percentage of hydrogen peroxide to determine strength, and level of deposit during a color process. Generally speaking, a higher level of hydrogen peroxide in developer contributes to a higher level of lift. In contrast, a lower level of hydrogen peroxide contributes to a lower level of lift.

DEVELOPER LEVELS 10 VOLUME – 3% Up to one level of lift 20 VOLUME – 6% Up to two levels of lift 30 VOLUME – 9% Up to three levels of lift 40 VOLUME – 12% Up to four levels of lift 17 CHOOSING AND UNDERSTANDING COLOR SYSTEMS One-Component Color Systems without an oxygen source present to create a chemical reaction within the hair strand.

TEMPORARY SEMI-PERMANENT DEMI-PERMANENT HAIR HAIR COLOR: HAIR COLOR: COLOR: Made with direct dyes that stain Made with direct dyes that deliver Made with oxidative and direct the cuticle layer of the hair strand. color to the cuticle. Semi- dyes that deliver color to the cuti- Temporary hair color lasts up to permanent hair color lasts up to cle and partially into the cortex. three shampoos, depending on eight shampoos, depending on Color is usually tone-on-tone, but the hair strand porosity and con- the hair strand porosity and may expose a small amount of lift in the natural hair strand. Has an dition. There is no source of alkali condition. Typically has a slight alkali pH level. acidic, or low alkali pH level of am- used to alter the pH level of the monia or MEA. hair strand. Two-Component Color Systems with an oxygen source present to create a chemical reaction within the hair strand.

18 CHOOSING AND UNDERSTANDING COLOR SYSTEMS

PERMANENT MULTI COMPONENT SYSTEM HAIR COLOR: LIGHTENER/DECOLORIZER:

Made with oxidative and or direct Lifts the hair strand 4 or more lev- dyes used to create lift (of natu- els by effectively shattering exist- ral melanin only), and to deposit ing natural melanin and artificial artificial pigment deep within the pigment within the cortex, alter- cortex. Has an elevated alkali pH ing saturation. Also commonly level of ammonia or MEA. used for foil and balayage highlights prior to a glaze. Has a high alkali pH level.

19 CODE OF L’ANZA THE MECHANICS OF SUCCESS

UNDERSTANDING L’ANZA HEALING HAIR COLOR Color Attachment Technology 21 Keratin Healing System 22 Flower Shield Complex 22 3-IN-1 Flexibility 24 Melanin 26 Enhancement & Refinement of Tone 28 Shades & Families 29 Color Formulations 33 Developers 36 Mixing & Processing 38 Decolorizers/Blonding 39 Guide Lines 43 Gray Coverage 50 Red Formulation 52 Mix Tones 55 Blonding 58 Glazing 67 Corrective Color 68 Post Color Services 72 Liquids 73 Vibes 75

TOOLS FOR APPLICATION 77 HAIR PREPARATION 79

GLOSSARY 81 THE L’ANZA HEALING COLOR MECHANICS OF SUCCESS

A comprehensive understanding of color theory and hair color technology is the first step to a successful salon color service. The next steps to success are: • Understanding L’ANZA Healing Color • Successful Color Formulation • Conducting a Patch Test • Preparing The Hair For A Color Service

UNDERSTANDING L’ANZA HEALING COLOR | HEALS. SEALS. PROTECTS. L’ANZA Healing Color gives 3-in-1 flexibility for Permanent, Demi-Permanent and Demi-Translucent results. • True-to-Tone color results • Improved hair condition • Great performance and unlimited mixing options • Savings…All in ONE tube of color!

The first and only professional hair color that Heals, Seals and Protects with Color Attachment Technology, infusing hair with rich, long-lasting color.

All in ONE tube of color!

21 COLOR ATTACHMENT TECHNOLOGY Rich, long-lasting color starts in the tube. L’ANZA Healing Color KERATIN infuses each hair strand with Color Attachment Technology, extending HEALING color results and vibrancy. SYSTEM

KERATIN HEALING SYSTEM Protein, moisture and minerals are vital to hair health. The L’ANZA Keratin Healing System heals the hair by replacing all of these essential nutrients. Infused with potent doses of: • Keratin Amino Acids – the key structural protein of hair and nails • Meadowfoam Flower Seed Complex – essential lipids for proper hydration of the hair • PCA’s (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) – extraordinary humectants that The Keratin Healing System embeds maintain moisture and replenish the necessary minerals lost during Keratin Amino Acids deep inside each hair strand. The proteins in Keratin chemical processing Amino Acids function synergistically – Sodium PCA: A hygroscopic ingredient that attracts moisture from the air with the Meadowfoam Flower Seed Complex and PCA’s to heal and – Magnesium PCA: A super-moisturizing agent that fights against moisturize. The positively charged fatigue and stress by rehabilitating the hair fiber healers are attracted to negatively charged damaged areas within the – Zinc PCA: Helps restore healing activity by fortifying the cortical hair strand. This action allows the hair wall while infusing moisture to heal from within, so the external texture becomes smooth, shiny and – Manganese PCA: Helps in the hydrolysis of hair cells healthier. – Advanced UV Protection: Ensures color protection from harsh UV rays

22 THE L’ANZA HEALING COLOR MECHANICS OF SUCCESS

FLOWER SHIELD COMPLEX The Flower Shield Complex is a specialized blend of flower extracts designed to shield hair from UV rays that cause color to fade. This complex contains the same potent anti-fade protectors that flowers use for their own color protection. Powerful phyto-compounds are extracted from seven color-specific flowers: Echinacea, Cornflower, Green Orchid, Rose, Calendula, Hibiscus and White Gardenia. These flowers were chosen because they contain special ingredients to protect colors in specific UV wavelengths. These seven flower extracts provide full-spectrum color protection and guard against fading in all hair color hues, saturation and tone. The result: hair color stays true and radiant longer – even the brightest reds. Provides vibrant and longer-lasting hair color.

CHLOROPHYLL, CAROTENOIDS, found in the Green found in Rose, Calendula & Orchid, protects Hibiscus, protects hair color hair color in the in the yellow to red range. green range.

White represents the combination of all colors. The phyto-compounds found in Gardenia ensure FLAVONOIDS, found in complete protection over the en- Cornflower & Echinacea, tire color spectrum. protects hair color in the blue to violet range. 23 3-IN-1 FLEXIBILITY L’ANZA Healing Color offers a wide array of fabulous shades with five dedicated developers, offering unlimited flexibility and full-spectrum color protection for all Permanent, Demi-Permanent and Demi-Translucent formulas. Maximum formulation versatility with greater performance – All in One Tube of Color!

PERMANENT DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT Lighten • Darken • Cover Gray Deposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh Tone • Glaze • Enhance

20 DEMI TRANS DEMI 1:1 1:2 1: 1: LUCENT 2:

1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Healing Color Developer 2 Parts Demi Healing Color Developer 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) 2 Parts Demi Healing Color Developer

PERMANENT DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT =

Reliable, consistent results are created time after time. Hair is luxuriously shiny and true-to-level (saturation) and tone, from new growth to distal porous ends. 24 THE L’ANZA HEALING COLOR MECHANICS OF SUCCESS

UNIQUE 3-IN-1 FLEXIBILITY

1. PERMANENT COLOR 2. DEMI PERMANENT COLOR 3. DEMI TRANSLUCENT COLOR • Oxidizes in the cortex and will alter • Penetrates the cuticle layer and • Penetrates cuticle slightly and does the natural melanin. deposits color into the cuticle and not disturb the natural melanin in • May also be used for darkening the partially into the cortex. the hair. hair and is recommended for gray • Usually does not disturb the natural • Translucent Color Catalyst coverage. melanin, as the developer and encapsulates and inactivates • A line of demarcation will result ammonia levels are low. 99.9% of the ammonia. depending on the client’s natural • Generally lasts from 3 to 5 weeks. • Mixed 1:1:2 with Translucent Color growth cycle. • Mixed 1:2 with Demi Cream Catalyst and Demi Cream Developer. • Any lifting or lightening procedure is Developer. considered permanent hair color. • Mixed 1:1 with 10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume Cream Developer.

25 MELANIN Melanin is the pigment found in the cortex of the hair. The proportion of melanin determines the variation of natural hair color ranging from the lightest blonde to the deepest black.

There are two types of Melanin. Varying concentrations of each melanin will result in all natural hair color.

Eumelanin is the darker pigment Phaeomelanin is the lighter and is responsible for brown and pigment and is responsible for black hair colors. blonde and red hair colors.

Dark brown hair will have Blonde and copper hair will have • High levels of Eumelanin • High levels of Phaeomelanin • Low levels of Phaeomelanin • Low levels of Eumelanin 26 THE L’ANZA HEALING COLOR MECHANICS OF SUCCESS

L’ANZA HEALING COLOR • Versatile Formulations for Permanent, Demi-Permanent and Demi-Translucent • Intermixable shades provide unlimited formulation creativity – under 100 Standard Shades in levels 1-10 with a consistent ammonia level of 1.68% – Ultra Natural Series (NN) and (NA) to provide unparalleled coverage for resistant gray hair in one step – 7 mix tones to enhance or control existing tone – 5 High Lift Blondes (100 Series) provide up to 4 levels of lift on level 7 and higher with a consistent ammonia level of 2.50% for lift and refinement of tone – 4 Super Lifts (200 Series) provide maximum lift of up to 5 levels on level 6 and under, and have a consistent ammonia level of 3.36% • Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex

27 MIX TONE ADDITIONS* ENHANCEMENT & REFINEMENT OF TONE

ENHANCEMENT OF TONE REFINEMENT OF WARMTH

BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX RED MIX COPPER MIX GOLD MIX BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX SILVER MIX PEARL MIX LEVEL 3 4 5 7 8 LEVEL 3 4 8 9

10 up to 5 g 10

9 up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 5 g 9

8 up to 3 g up to 5 g up to 5 g 8 up to 5 g up to 5 g

7 up to 5 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 7 up to 2 g up to 7 g up to 5 g

6 up to 5 g up to 5 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 6 up to 2 g up to 2 g up to 9 g up to 7 g

up to 5 g up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 5 up to 2 g up to 2 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 5

4 up to 5 g up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 4 up to 2 g up to 4 g up to 9 g up to 9 g

3 up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 3 up to 6 g

2 up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 2 up to 6 g

1 up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 1 up to 8 g

*Up to 25% of color formula, based on one application with 30g Healing Color. 28 THE L’ANZA HEALING COLOR MECHANICS OF SUCCESS SHADES & FAMILIES

FAMILY LTR BASE RECOMMENDED USE Natural Formulated with double pigmentation for exceptional gray coverage. Perfectly balanced for true-to-tone and on-level natural color results when covering gray and deep, ULTRA NATURAL NN 100% Balanced full-bodied color on natural hair. Delivers resistant gray coverage in one step, while achieving the level of depth suggested on the marker. Cool Natural Formulated with double pigmentation for exceptional gray coverage. Cool Balanced base with blue/violet tones to control warmth for cool, neutral results. NATURAL ASH NA 88% Balanced Can be used alone or added to color formulations for gray coverage or tonal balance.balance. 12% Blue-Violet Balanced with Violet NATURAL VIOLET NV 100% Cool-Balanced Balanced base with a hint of violet to control gold tones for cool natural results. Can be used alone or added to any shade. Balanced NATURAL N 100% Balanced Perfectly balanced to reﬂect naturally occurring tonal values. Use alone or add to color formulations for gray coverage or tonal balance.

Blue-Green Perfectly balanced to deliver natural ash results. Blue-green base consistently controls unwanted warmth. ASH A 60% Balanced, 40% Blue-Green Green-Green-Blue EXTRA ASH AX 50% Balanced, Balanced, natural-looking ash with additional control over warmth. 40% Green, 10% Blue Yellow-Green BEIGE B 60% Balanced, True, natural beige without unwanted red tones. 40% Yellow-Green Yellow-Green-Orange BEIGE-COPPER BC 60% Balanced, Rich beige with added copper tones. Beautiful alone or when added to any color series 30% Yellow Green, 10% Orange

Yellow Brilliant gold – perfectly balanced to deliver vibrant warmth when used alone, or to impart rich golden tonal balance to any shade. GOLD G 60% Balanced, 40% Yellow Yellow-Orange GOLD-COPPER GC 60% Balanced, Provides rich golden tones with enhanced warmth from copper hues. 30% Yellow, 10% Orange Balanced with Orange Balanced base with a hint of orange creates a rich natural copper. NATURAL COPPER NC 90% Balanced, 10% Orange Orange COPPER C 60% Balanced, 40% Orange Warm copper creates radiant tones. Orange-Yellow COPPER-GOLD CG 60% Balanced, Ideal to create naturally occurring copper shades with rich, gold undertones. 30% Orange, 10% Yellow ULTRA COPPER CC Orange-Orange Ultra rich copper for a bold, vivid effect. 50% Balanced, 50% Orange Red-Red-Orange ULTRA RED-COPPER RRC 40% Balanced, Fiery red and copper tones. Use alone for maximum impact, or layer into any shade. 50% Red, 10% Orange R Red Cool reds add depth. RED 60% Balanced, 40% Red Red-Red Beautiful and bold. Contains additional red pigments for added depth and ruby-like intensity. ULTRA RED RR 50% Balanced, 50% Red *Can be used alone or added to any shade. Red-Violet RED VIOLET RV 60% Balanced, Red and violet merge to create velvety jewel tones. 30% Red, 10% Violet Violet Violet browns create burgundy hues. VIOLET V 60% Balanced, 40% Violet Violet-Blue PEARL P 60% Balanced, Pearls create violet-blue tones that control warmth. 30% Violet, 10% Blue 29 SHADES & FAMILIES

FAMILY LTR BASE RECOMMENDED USE Formulated with double pigmentation for exceptional gray coverage. Perfectly balanced for true-to-tone and on-level natural color results when covering gray and deep, PEARL MIX P Violet - Blue full-bodied color on natural hair. Delivers resistant gray coverage in one step, while achieving the level of depth suggested on the marker. Formulated with double pigmentation for exceptional gray coverage. Cool Balanced base with blue/violet tones to control warmth for cool, neutral results. SILVER MIX S Blue - Violet Can be used alone or added to color formulations for gray coverage or tonal balance.balance.

GOLD MIX G Yellow Balanced base with a hint of violet to control gold tones for cool natural results. Can be used alone or added to any shade.

COPPER MIX C Orange Perfectly balanced to reﬂect naturally occurring tonal values. Use alone or add to color formulations for gray coverage or tonal balance.

RED MIX R Red Perfectly balanced to deliver natural ash results. Blue-green base consistently controls unwanted warmth.

VIOLET MIX V Violet Balanced, natural-looking ash with additional control over warmth.

BLUE MIX B Blue True, natural beige without unwanted red tones.

FAMILY LTR BASE RECOMMENDED USE

SUPER LIFT ASH 200A Blue - Green Achieve 5 levels of lift with greater refinement of tone and control of warmth. Recommended for Levels 6 and under. SUPER LIFT 200AX Green - Blue EXTRA ASH

SUPER LIFT 200P Violet - Blue PEARL

SUPER LIFT 200V Violet VIOLET ULTRA LIGHT BLONDE BOOSTER 100 Balanced Achieve up to 4 levels of lift. Ideal for lifting from level 7 and higher. Can also be formulated as a Demi Translucent Color and used as a glaze ULTRA LIGHT 100A Blue - Green ASH BLONDE

ULTRA LIGHT 100B Yellow - Green BEIGE BLONDE

ULTRA LIGHT 100P Viiolet - Blue PEARL BLONDE

ULTRA LIGHT 100V Violet VIOLET BLONDE 30 Ultra Natural Natural Beige- Gold- Natural Copper- Ultra Natural Ash Extra Ash Beige Gold Copper Ultra Copper Red Ultra Red Red Violet Violet Pearl Mix Tones FAMILY Natural Ash Violet Copper Copper Copper Gold Red-Copper

LETTER NN NA NV N A AX B BC G GC NC C CG CC RRC R RR RV V P

100 alance 88 alance 100 oolalance 100 alance 60 alance 50 alance 60 alance 60 alance 60 alance 60 alance 90 alance 60 alance 60 alance 50 alance 40 alance 60 alance 50 alance 60 alance 60 alance 60 alance Natural. 12 lueiolet Balanced with Violet base True-to-tone 40 luereen 40 reen 40 elloreen 30 elloreen 40 ello 30 ello 10 Orane 40 Orane 30 Orane 50 Orane 50 e 40 e 50 e 30 e 40 iolet 30 iolet ouble Pimente Cool Natural. to control gold tones & on-level. Controls warmth. 10 lue Adds gold tones 10 Orane Adds warmth 10 Orane Enhances warmth Adds warmth 10 ello Adds warmth 10 Orane Adds rich, cool Adds warmth 10 iolet Adds cool violet 10 lue Enhances or BASE ouble Pimente for cool natural results Controls excessive while controlling Adds warmth while with golden tones. Adds warmth in natural tones with copper tones. Adds warmth with with intense Adds warmth red tones. with intense Adds cool red tones. Neutralizes Intensi es cool blonde controls tones. warmth. unwanted warmth. controlling red tones. with gold & with copper. copper & gold tones. copper tones. with intense red red tones. & violet tones. warm tones. tones. Neutralizes copper tones. & copper tones. yellow & orange tones.

200 200A 200AX 200V 200P Super Lift

100 100 100A 100B 100V 100P High Lift Blonde 10 10NN 10N 10A 10P P Lightest Blonde 9 9NN 9NA 9NV 9N 9A 9B 9G 9P S Light Blonde 8 8NN 8NA 8NV 8N 8A 8AX 8B 8G 8C 8P G Medium Blonde 7 7NN 7NA 7NV 7N 7A 7AX 7B 7G 7GC 7NC 7C 7CG 7CC 7RR 7P C Dark Blonde 6 6NN 6NA 6NV 6N 6A 6AX 6B 6BC 6G 6GC 6CG 6RRC 6R 6RR 6P Darkest Blonde

5NN 5NA 5NV 5N 5A 5AX 5G 5CG 5RRC 5R 5RR 5V R 5 Light Brown

4NN 4NA 4NV 4N 4A 4AX 4BC 4G 4CG 4RRC 4R 5RR 4RV 4V V 4 Medium Brown

3NN 3NA 3N 3V B 3 Dark Brown

2NA 2 Darkest Brown

1N 1 Black

31 Ultra Natural Natural Beige- Gold- Natural Copper- Ultra Natural Ash Extra Ash Beige Gold Copper Ultra Copper Red Ultra Red Red Violet Violet Pearl Mix Tones FAMILY Natural Ash Violet Copper Copper Copper Gold Red-Copper

LETTER NN NA NV N A AX B BC G GC NC C CG CC RRC R RR RV V P

200 200A 200AX 200V 200P Super Lift

5NN 5NA 5NV 5N 5A 5AX 5G 5CG 5RRC 5R 5RR 5V R 5 Light Brown

4NN 4NA 4NV 4N 4A 4AX 4BC 4G 4CG 4RRC 4R 5RR 4RV 4V V 4 Medium Brown

3NN 3NA 3N 3V B 3 Dark Brown

2NA 2 Darkest Brown

1N 1 Black 32 UNDERSTANDING L’ANZA HEALING COLOR

L’ANZA PERMANENT COLOR FORMULATION PERMANENT Create a Permanent Color formula by mixing Healing Lighten • Darken • Cover Gray Color 1:1 with 10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume Cream Developer. • Lighten • Darken • Tone-on-Tone • Cover Gray 1:1 20

1 Part Healing Color Select the appropriate developer based on the 1 Part Healing Color Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) amount of lift/gray coverage you would like to achieve.

10 20 30 40

10 Volume (3%) 20 Volume (6%) 30 Volume (9%) 40 Volume (12%) 10 up to 1 Level of Lift up to 2 Levels of Lift up to 3 Levels of Lift up to 4 Levels of Lift

35-45 min 35-45 min 35-45 min 35-45 min

Recommended for Recommended for Recommended for use gray coverage. gray coverage. with High Lift Blondes and Super Lifts with a 1:2 mixing ratio.

RETOUCH APPLICATION When performing a retouch, you can use a Permanent Color on the new growth, and a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color formula to refresh the ends!

A Permanent Color formula will deposit color all the way into the cortex of the 33 hair and will affect the natural melanin. L’ANZA DEMI PERMANENT COLOR FORMULATION DEMI PERMANENT Deposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh Create a Demi Permanent Color formula by mixing Healing Color 1:2 with Demi Cream Developer. • Deposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh 1:2 DEMI • Pre-Pigment gray hair

• Fill over processed or lightened hair 1 Part Healing Color 2 Parts Demi Healing Color Developer Demi Permanent Color can be used to eliminate or reduce the line of demarcation as hair grows out. RETOUCH APPLICATION When performing a retouch, you can use a Permanent Color on the new growth, and a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent DEMI formula to refresh the ends!

Demi Cream Developer Approximately 6 Volume (1.75%)

Deposit Only Fill

Up to 20 min 10 min

May also be used with the Ultra Natural Series for gray blending or damaged or compromised hair. Demi Permanent Color will deposit color in the cuticle and outer cortex only. It will usually not disturb the natural 34 melanin in the hair. UNDERSTANDING L’ANZA HEALING COLOR

Demi Translucent Color can be used to • Refresh • Tone • Glaze • Gloss DEMI TRANSLUCENT • Color compromised or fragile hair Tone • Glaze • Enhance

TRANS DEMI 1: 1: LUCENT 2: Demi Translucent Color can be layered on top of any hair color service!

Try it over brunettes or redheads to enhance or intensify tones! 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer

Demi Translucent Color needs BOTH! DEMI TRANS LUCENT

Translucent Color Catalyst Demi Cream Developer Makes 99.9% of the ammonia Approximately 6 Volume (1.75%) non-effective

Deposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh • Tone • Glaze • Enhance

Up to 10 - 20 min 20 min Demi Translucent Color will deposit color on and just beneath the cuticle only. It uses an oxidative dye mole- 35 cule to provide color longevity and shine. It will not disturb the natural melanin in the hair. L’ANZA HEALING COLOR CREAM DEVELOPERS Five dedicated developers for all color services • Demi Healing Color Cream Developer (1.75%) • 10 Volume Healing Color Cream Developer (3%) • 20 Volume Healing Color Cream Developer (6%) • 30 Volume Healing Color Cream Developer (9%) • 40 Volume Healing Cream Developer (12%) Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex

L’ANZA HEALING TRANSLUCENT COLOR CATALYST • Makes 99.9% of the ammonia in Healing Color non-effective • Not a developer. Must be used in conjunction with Demi Healing Color Developer • Demi Translucent Color is created by mixing 1 part Healing Color with 1 part Translucent Color Catalyst and 2 parts Demi Healing Color Developer • Demi Translucent Color can be used to tone, glaze or enhance • Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex

36 UNDERSTANDING L’ANZA HEALING COLOR

L’ANZA Healing Color also contains our exclusive Color Attachment Technology (Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex), which contribute to better color uptake, more durable color, and healthier hair. The volume of developer helps to determine how deeply into the cortex the color penetrates. Since Healing Color uses a very low percentage of ammonia in the shades, the cuticle layer is less affected during the color service, promoting the shine of the hair.

HOW L’ANZA OXIDATIVE HAIR COLOR WORKS L’ANZA uses one oxidative color molecule to create three different types of color.

OXIDATIVE COLOR PRECURSORS The pigments in oxidative color start off as Precursors, or small undeveloped pigments. As they pass through the cuticle layers and enter the cortex, they interact with the oxidative ingredients to create the color change. Also known as non-direct pigments, oxidative color creates long-lasting, vibrant hair color.

PERMANENT COLOR 1:1 DEMI PERMANENT COLOR 1:2 DEMI TRANSLUCENT COLOR 1:1:2 When hair color molecules are exposed to L’ANZA Healing Color utilizes the same per- A Demi Translucent Color formula can be oxygen from a developer, they begin to ox- manent color molecule for Demi Permanent used in a variety of ways – for toning, glazing idize and pass through the cuticle layer into color services. When Healing Color is mixed and adding shine and brilliance to the hair. If the cortex. At the same time, the natural mel- with Demi Cream Developer, the color for- the hair is very porous or in poor condition, a anin may be lifted and undertone exposed. mula will penetrate slightly into the cortex Demi Translucent Color formula is also rec- The artificial pigments then link together to layer and form the same “color chains” as ommended. form “color chains” locking them inside the permanent color, creating longer lasting color, The purpose of the Translucent Colo hair strand. This final visual result is a com- better coverage, more shine and healthier Catalyst is to reduce the activity of the am- bination of the light reflecting and refracting hair. monia and make it 99.9% non-effective, on the lifted natural melanin and the artificial create sheer gloss colors & increase shine. pigments.

37 MIXING & PROCESSING

3-IN-1 FLEXIBILITY

PERMANENT DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT Lighten • Darken • Cover Gray Deposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh Tone • Glaze • Enhance

20 DEMI TRANS DEMI 1:1 1:2 1: 1: L UCENT 2:

10 Volume 35-45 min Deposit Up to Deposit Only Up to Up to 1 level lift Only 20 min Glaze 20 min

20 Volume 10 min Up to 2 levels lift 35-45 min Fill

30 Volume Up to 3 levels 35-45 min lift

40 Volume Up to 4 levels 35-45 min lift 38 L’ANZA HEALING COLOR DECOLORIZERS

POWDER DECOLORIZER • Dust free and easy to mix for smooth consistency and application • Up to 7 levels of lift • Can be formulated for both on and off-scalp applications • Contains Keratin Healing System

CREAM DECOLORIZER • Contains protective emollients to provide maximum comfort for clients with sensitive scalp • Up to 7 levels of lift • Can be formulated for both on and off-scalp applications • Contains Keratin Healing System CLAY DECOLORIZER • For freehand techniques such as ombré or balayage; stays put at application site • Up to 7 levels of lift • Recommended for off-scalp applications only • Formulated with Arginine to strengthen and protect hair • Contains Vita C-Plex to help accelerate the color removal process • Contains Keratin Healing System

ULTRA BLONDING DECOLORIZER • Recommended for highlights, extreme lightening & quick lift • Up to 9+ levels of lift quickly & effectively • Exclusive Vita C-Plex Plus protects hair from damage • Arginine strengthens & prevents breakage • Improves vibrancy & keeps blondes on tone 39 L’ANZA DECOLORIZERS The first step to hair color nirvana! 4 AMAZING FORMULAS

ULTRA BLONDING CLAY DECOLORIZER POWDER DECOLORIZER CREAM DECOLORIZER “Be Blonder” “Clay is the Way” “The Original” “Gentle On-Scalp Lightening”

Highlights, on-scalp lightening and Highlights, extreme lightening, Freehand techniques, ombré, On-scalp lightening, highlights balayage techniques. Clients with Recommended For: quick lift balayage and babylights sensitive scalp

Level of Lift: Up to 9+ levels Up to 7 levels Up to 7 levels Up to 7 levels

Speed: Ultra-Fast Controlled Lift Fast Fast

Base: Cool, blue powder Moisture-rich Kaolin clay White powder Cream

Mixing Ratio: 1:1 1:1 or 1:2 1:2 1:1

On-/Off-Scalp: On- & Off-Scalp* Off Scalp** On- & Off-Scalp On- & Off-Scalp

Processing Time: Up to 60 minutes Up to 60 minutes Up to 60 minutes Up to 60 minutes

KSP: • Up to 9+ Levels of FAST-ACTING lift • Ultimate Control - creamy consist- • Dust-Free and easy to mix • Contains jojoba oil and essential lipids to • Exclusive Vita C-Plex Plus protects ency that stays exactly where • Prevents warmth at any stage provide maximum comfort for clients from damage while improving con- you want during lift with sensitive scalp dition of the hair • No foils, flaking, swelling • Keratin Amino Acids, minerals • Great for all types of decolorizing • Arginine strengthens & prevents • Moisture-rich formula with Arginine & moisturizers ensure hair integrity • Conditions hair for maximum integrity breakage to strengthen and protect hair and during & after process • Easy mixing and application. For ex- • Improves blonde vibrancy & keeps Vita C-Plex, a special combination • Flexibility to achieve all types of tended application & processing time blondes bright & on tone of botanically derived ingredients services – on or off-scalp full of Vitamin C (Guava Fruit & • Keratin Healing System™ - ensures • Can be used with or without foils Grapefruit Extract) that helps unmatched hair integrity accelerate the lightening process • Ideal for on-scalp applications resulting in less damage an • Flexible formulation healthier, shiny hair • Gentle Lift with a protective cream base • Keratin Amino Acids, minerals & moisturizers ensure hair integrity during & after process

Size: 450 grams 450 grams 450 grams 283 grams 900 grams

No dedicated developer needed. All L’ANZA Decolorizers perform with Healing Color Cream Developers. *Do not use 30 (9%) or 40 (12%) for On-Scalp Mixture on Ultra Blonding | **Do not use Clay Decolorizer On-Scalp MIXING & PROCESSING | BLONDING & LIGHTENING

HIGH LIFT BLONDES SUPER LIFTS Blonding • Highlighting Lightening • Highlighting

1:2 40 1:2 40

1 Part Healing Color (100 Series) 1 Part Healing Color (200 Series) 2 Parts Healing Color Developer 2 Parts Healing Color Developer (40 Volume) (40 Volume)

40 Volume Up to 40 Volume 45-55 Up to 4 45 min Up to 5 min levels lift levels lift

NOTE: Recommended for NOTE: Recommended Level 7 and higher. for Level 6 and under.

41 MIXING & PROCESSING | BLONDING

HEALING BLONDE POWDER CREAM CLAY ULTRA BLONDING DECOLORIZER DECOLORIZER DECOLORIZER DECOLORIZER Blonding • Highlighting Blonding • Highlighting Blonding • Highlighting • Balayage Highlights • Extreme Lightening Quick Lift

ULTRA BLONDING 20 CD 20 CLAY 20 20 OR PD 1:2 1:1 1:1 1:2 1:1

1 Part Healing Powder Decolorizer 1 Part Healing Cream Decolorizer 1 Part Healing Clay Decolorizer 1 Healing Blonde Ultra Blonding Decolorizer 2 Parts Healing Color Developer 1 Part Healing Color Developer 1-2 Part Healing Color Developer 1 Part Healing Color Developer

ON–SCALP OFF–SCALP ON–SCALP

Demi up to 60 min Demi up to Demi up to 10 Volume 10 Volume 60 min 10 Volume 60 min 20 Volume 20 Volume 20 Volume OFF–SCALP 30 Volume OFF–SCALP 40 Volume Demi Demi up to 10 Volume up to 60 min 10 Volume 20 Volume 20 Volume 60 min 30 Volume 30 Volume 40 Volume 40 Volume

42 SUCCESSFUL COLOR FORMULATION

CONSIDER THE HAIR CONDITION AND POROSITY Condition and Porosity are critical when considering your formula and application approach. • Has hair been previously colored? • Has hair been permed or relaxed? • Has hair been exposed to excessive heat? • What is the overall condition of the hair? Is it healthy or compromised?

REMEMBER, L’ANZA Healing Color is a flexible 3-in-1 system, so you can use one shade to formulate Permanent, Demi Permanent, and Demi Translucent Color for new growth, and the same shade to formulate for Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color for the mid-lengths and ends.

POROUS NON-POROUS • Open cuticle layer • Closed, tight cuticle layer • Increased absorption • Resistant to color products • Color fades more easily • Results appear lighter than the • Uneven color attachment Target Color • Does not lighten to Target Color easily

RECOMMENDATION RECOMMENDATION • Use Trauma Treatment before service • Use a Permanent Color formula. or add it to the color formula. • Use the Ultra Natural Series (NN) or the Natural Ash Series • Use the Ultimate Treatment before service. (NA) instead of the Natural Series (N) for gray coverage. • Fill or pre-pigment with Demi Permanent Color formula first. • Fill or pre-pigment the hair when going darker. • Use Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color formula. • Use a higher Volume of L’ANZA Cream Developer.

CONSIDER THE HAIR TEXTURE AND DENSITY The texture and density of the hair affects color depth and tone, and how the hair will respond to a color service. • Hair Texture – fine, coarse? • Hair Density – thick, medium, sparse? 43 THERE ARE FOUR STEPS TO SUCCESSFUL COLOR FORMULATION RECOMMENDED BY L’ANZA HEALING COLOR: STEP 1: DETERMINE THE CLIENTS NATURAL OR EXISTING LEVEL Using the L’ANZA Healing Color level finder, identify: • Natural Level (NL) – the level of natural pure virgin hair that has not been previously colored, lightened or chemically altered. • Existing Level (EL) – the level of previously colored, lightened or chemically altered hair.

AT SCALP Can you see the natural level or is it previously colored? Be very careful to seek out the true natural level, especially when lightening.

AT MID-SHAFT This section requires care and consideration in formulation. Unless you are lifting, a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent formula may be your best option.

AT ENDS Porosity and damage from aging, thermal tools and environmental aggressors can create genuine problems for the ends. Use Trauma Treatment to protect the ends prior to color application and promote even color attachment. If ends are darker due to excess deposit from prior color services, consider performing a Beau- tyBath/ToneRe- Boot or use a Demi Translucent formula to refresh.

USING THE NATURAL LEVEL FINDER • Hold the Natural Level Finder so that the numbers are not facing upward. • Select 2 to 3 swatches that are close to the level of the hair. Remember that warm hair tones may appear lighter and cool tones darker, so it’s important to evaluate the actual Level. • Using your fingers, spread the fibers on the swatch and blend into the hair to make the best evaluation. • When you have decided upon the best match, flip the tab over to view the level. 44 SUCCESSFUL COLOR FORMULATION

Verify the Percentage of Gray Hair (% Gray), using the Percentage Gray Finder in the back of the Swatch Binder or Shade Book. You will need this information to adjust your formula to account for the missing pigment in gray hair. As a general guideline, look at the hair – if you see more gray hair than pigmented natural hair, formulate for the gray first then account for the natural pigments. Do you want to neutralize these pigments or enhance them? This will make a difference in the shade selection. For additional information, refer back on formulation for gray hair.

ACCOUNT FOR GRAY COVERAGE When formulating for gray coverage, remember to add the missing pigments to the hair. This can be done by adding a shade from one of the following series at the same level as the Target Color. * • The Ultra Natural Series (NN) for ultra-coverage • The Natural Ash Series (NA) for cool coverage • The Natural Violet Series (NV) for balanced coverage REMEMBER TO • The Natural Series (N) for up to 50% gray coverage VERIFY THE PERCENTAGE OF PERCENTAGE OF GRAY FORMULATION INFO* GRAY HAIR Using the L’ANZA 0 - 25% Add 25% – 50% NN, NA, NV, N to the formula Healing Color Percentage Gray Finder, verify 25% - 50% Add 50% – 75% NN, NA, NV, N to the formula the percentage of gray hair. You need 50% - 75% Add 75% – 100% NN, NA, NV to the formula this information to adjust your formula to account for the 75% - 100% Add up to 100% NN, NA, NV to the formula missing pigment in gray hair.

* Examples based on one application with 30g of Healing Color. 45 TONE AND BASE COLOR First, consider the tone you want to see in the Target Color results. Tone is the warmth or coolness of a color. • Warm tones reflect light and appear lighter, up to level 7. • Cool tones absorb light and appear darker, under level 6. The dominant base tone in any hair color mixture will give a shade its overall characteristic.

CONSIDER THE CLIENT’S FEATURES In haircutting, you need to consider a client’s facial features, and determine which you would like to accentuate and which you would like to diminish. The same principles apply to color. Color can make hair look thicker or finer, more or less dense, solid or broken textured, shiny or duller. Color can also influence the client’s complexion, making it look less sallow, ruddy or flushed.

46 SUCCESSFUL COLOR FORMULATION

STEP 2 – DETERMINE THE TARGET COLOR DESIRED Changing level and tone requires specific formulation and must CONSIDER THE be considered to ensure exact final results. Determine Target UNDERTONE Color (TC) and color. As you lift to a lighter level, you will also uncover Are you going lighter or darker? How many (if any) levels? warmth. Please refer to the Undertone Chart. What is the natural undertone at the starting level or at the existing level?

UNDERTONES TONE WHEN DECOLORIZING If you are decolorizing, remember to consider the undertone exposed during the 7 stages of lift.

Pale Yellow

Yellow

Gold

Red-Orange LEVEL

Red

Brown

Black

47 STEP 3 – DETERMINE THE UNDERTONE This is an easy determination once you’ve established Steps 1 and 2. Is the final color hue of the TC changing? Is it red, orange, yellow, etc? When formulating, you will need to determine if you want to maintain, neutralize or enhance the natural undertone to achieve your final goal.

LEVEL & UNDERTONE

UNDERTONE EXPOSED NEUTRALIZING LEVEL DESCRIPTION WHEN LIFTING BASE CONSIDER THE UNDERTONE 10 Lightest Blonde Palest Yellow Violet AT BOTH YOUR NL/EL AND 9 Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet TARGET COLOR

8 Medium Blonde Yellow Violet Be sure to consider the Under- tone at both the Natural/Existing 7 Dark Blonde Orange + Yellow Blue + Violet Level and the Target Color. This will help you determine which 6 Darkest Blonde Orange Blue Undertones will affect your 5 Light Brown Red + Orange Green + Blue shade selection when lifting or depositing. 4 Medium Brown Red Green

3 Dark Brown Red Violet Green + Yellow

2 Darkest Brown Blue Violet NONE

1 Black Blue NONE

STEP 4: FORMULATE Confirm the change in level at the proximal new growth, medial mid-lengths and distal porous ends of the hair to achieve the target level and tone. This step will help you choose the appropriate color used (Permanent, Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent) and developer level for each shade and section of the hair strand.

Implement Steps 1 through 4 to calculate the perfect color formula. Consider:

1. NATURAL AND EXISTING LEVEL 2. TARGET COLOR DESIRED 3. UNDERTONES FOUND AT NATURAL/EXISTING LEVEL (when lifting) OR TARGET COLOR (when depositing) 4. SELECT SHADE AND DEVELOPER VOLUME

Formulate according to your findings and choose Permanent, Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color with the appropriate volume of developer to achieve your final goal.

49 FORMULATION FOR GRAY HAIR

COVERAGE FOR RESISTANT GRAY HAIR When formulating for any resistant gray hair, L’ANZA recommends: • The Ultra Natural Series (NN), which contains increased pigment concentration to provide complete gray coverage. • Use 10 or 20 Volume Cream Developer for 45 min.

EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR RESISTANT GRAY COVERAGE FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS WITH ULTRA NATURAL (NN) WITHOUT ULTRA NATURAL (NN)

TC 5 golden brown Option 1 – Demi Permanent Color

UT red-orange 30g 6G + 60g Demi Cream Developer 25g 5NN + 5g 5G + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer NL 7 natural blonde Option 2 – Demi Translucent Color L/T 2 levels darker, from 30g 6G + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi neutral to warm Cream Developer

% Gray 50% (resistant) Process for 45 minutes Process for 20 minutes

EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR RESISTANT GRAY COVERAGE FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS WITH ULTRA NATURAL (NN) WITHOUT ULTRA NATURAL (NN)

TC 5 cool, neutral brown Option 1 – Demi Permanent Color

UT red-orange 30g 6A + 60g Demi Cream Developer 25g 5NA + 5g 5AX + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer NL 7 natural blonde Option 2 – Demi Translucent Color L/T 2 levels darker, from 30g 6A + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst neutral to cool + 60g Demi Cream Developer

% Gray 50% (resistant) Process for 45 minutes Process for 20 minutes

RETOUCH APPLICATION Apply your new growth formula at the scalp first. Then, as you apply the refresh formula, cross-check for complete color saturation at the scalp.

50 FORMULATION FOR GRAY HAIR

APPLICATION TIPS FOR OPTIMAL GRAY COVERAGE 1. Use L’ANZA Protective Barrier Cream to protect skin from staining. 2. Take thin slices and apply color on both sides of the part. 3. After applying color, cross-check application. If you applied the color in horizontal sections, re-work color in vertical sections. 4. Be sure the hair is thoroughly saturated during the application – especially around hairline.

CLEANSE THE HAIR FIRST

To ensure the best gray coverage, be sure to cleanse the hair before color application. Treat with Ultimate Treatment and prep with Color Attach. See section on Preparing the Hair for more information.

51 FORMULATION FOR RADIANT REDS

GUIDELINES FOR RED FORMULATION • Choose a Target Color that is no more than 2 to 3 levels lighter or darker than starting level to ensure optimum control and longevity. • The proper Undertone must be present to support Target Color and ensure durability. • To maintain vibrancy, choose a Demi Permanent, Demi Translucent or VIBES formula to refresh ends.

VIRGIN APPLICATION AVOID “HOT EXAMPLE: FORMULA FOR APPLICATION AT SCALP FORMULA FOR MID-SHAFT AND ENDS ROOTS”! TC bright level 7 copper Apply to scalp Apply to ends Using a lower UT Red-Orange volume Cream 30g 7CC + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer 30g 7CC + 30g 30 Volume Cream Developer Developer at the NL 5 natural brown scalp will avoid L/T 2 levels lighter, from neutral to copper “hot roots” and create a more % Gray 0% 35 minutes process time natural effect. You can also increase the RETOUCH APPLICATION developer strength and EXAMPLE: FORMULA FOR APPLICATION AT SCALP FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS over the shade

TC bright level 7 copper OPTION 1 – Demi Permanent Color level.

UT Red-Orange 30g 7CC + 60g Demi Cream Developer OR + G or C MIX for added vibrancy 30g 7CC + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer NL 5 natural brown OPTION 2 – Demi Translucent Color L/T 2 levels lighter, from 30g 7CC + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst neutral to copper + 60g Demi Cream Developer OR + G or C MIX for added vibrancy % Gray 0% Process for 35 minutes 35 minutes from final application 52 RED FORMULATION: GOING DARKER When going darker, you will need to add the appropriate pigments to support the Undertone at the Target Color. You can use a shade(s) from the following families for vibrant results with durability. • Red (R) • Gold-Copper (GC) • Copper (C) • Copper-Gold (CG) • Gold (G)

LEVEL & UNDERTONE

UNDERTONE EXPOSED NEUTRALIZING LEVEL DESCRIPTION WHEN LIFTING BASE 10 Lightest Blonde Palest Yellow Violet 9 Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet

8 Medium Blonde Yellow Violet

7 Dark Blonde Orange + Yellow Blue + Violet

6 Darkest Blonde Orange Blue

5 Light Brown Red + Orange Green + Blue

4 Medium Brown Red Green

3 Dark Brown Red Violet Green + Yellow

2 Darkest Brown Blue Violet NONE

1 Black Blue NONE

53 GOING DARKER 1 TO 3 LEVELS GOING You must add in the pigments to support the Undertone at the Target Color. DARKER MORE THAN 3 LEVELS EXAMPLE FORMULA Be sure to TC 5 red Very Vibrant Red 23g 5R + 7g R Mix + 60g Demi Cream Developer consider the Undertone at UT red-orange Warm Red 27g 5R + 3g C Mix + 60g Demi Cream Developer the level of the NL 7 natural blonde Target Color 25g 5R + 5g 5RRC + 60g Demi Cream Developer L/T 2 levels darker, from Natural Red to determine neutral to red which pig- % Gray 0% Process for 20 minutes ments need to be added back into the hair.

GOING DARKER MORE THAN 3 LEVELS L’ANZA recommends that you fill the hair to ensure vibrancy, durability and longevity. If you do not fill hair first, results may appear hollow or fade quickly. • Fill the hair choosing a shade one level lighter than the Target Color to support the Undertone at the Target Color. • Apply a Demi Permanent formula to the hair, process up to 20 minutes. • Rinse thoroughly – shampoo. Blot hair with towel. • Apply Target Color in a formula with Demi Volume Cream Developer.

EXAMPLE FORMULA TO FILL FORMULA FOR SECONDARY APPLICATION TC 5 red Very Vibrant Red 23g 5R + 7g R Mix + 60g Demi Volume Cream Developer 30g 6CG + UT red-orange 60g Demi Cream Warm Red 27g 5R + 3g C Mix + 60g Demi Volume Cream Developer NL 9 natural blonde Developer L/T 4 levels darker, from Natural Red 25g 5R + 5g 5RRC + 60g Demi Volume Cream Developer neutral to red Process for 10 minutes. Up to 20 minutes % Gray 0% Rinse and blot with towel. 54 MIX TONES

Mix Tones can be used to neutralize or enhance color, according to the color wheel. When adding Mix Tones to enhance tone or refine warmth, it is recommended to add up to ¼ of the total color mixture with the selected Mix Tones.

MIX TONE BASE ENHANCES CONTROLS

BLUE MIX Blue Blue tones. Deepens ash tones. Orange tones.

VIOLET MIX Violet Violet tones. Yellow tones and brassiness.

RED MIX Red Red tones. Adds warmth. Green tones.

COPPER MIX Orange Orange and copper tones. Adds warmth. Blue and ash tones.

GOLD MIX Yellow Gold tones, adds warmth. Violet tones.

SILVER MIX Blue/Violet Ash/steel tones. Brassy gold tones in blondes.

PEARL MIX Violet/Blue Ash/platinum tones. Yellow/gold tones in blondes.

EXAMPLE FORMULA

TC 6 cool, dark blonde OPTION 1 UT Red Violet 30g 6AX + 30g 30 Volume Cream Developer NL 3 natural brown OPTION 2 L/T 3 levels lighter, from 27g 6A + 3g B Mix + 30g 30 Volume Cream Developer neutral to cool % Gray 0% Process for 50 minutes

55 ENHANCING TONE AND REFINING WARMTH The following charts provide recommendations of mixing ratios to achieve subtle shifts in Target Color results.

ENHANCEMENT OF TONE REFINEMENT OF WARMTH

BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX RED MIX COPPER MIX GOLD MIX BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX SILVER MIX PEARL MIX Example of results by adding various Mix Tones to a 30g Permanent Color Formula with 6N LEVEL 3 4 5 7 8 LEVEL 3 4 8 9 10 up to 5 g 10 6N G 9 up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 5 g 9 + =

8 up to 3 g up to 5 g up to 5 g 8 up to 5 g up to 5 g 23g 6N 7g Gold Mix

7 up to 5 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 7 up to 2 g up to 7 g up to 5 g 6N C 6 up to 5 g up to 5 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 6 up to 2 g up to 2 g up to 9 g up to 7 g + =

up to 5 g up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 5 up to 2 g up to 2 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 5 23g 6N 7g Copper Mix

4 up to 5 g up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 4 up to 2 g up to 4 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 6N R 3 up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 3 up to 6 g + =

2 up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 2 up to 6 g 27g 6N 3g Red Mix

1 up to 9 g up to 9 g up to 9 g 1 up to 8 g

6N V *Up to 25% of color formula, based on one ppa lication with 30g Healing Color. + =

27g 6N 3g Violet Mix

6N + B =

CREATING FASHION TONES 27g 6N 3g Blue Mix Mix tones can also be used to achieve vibrant fashion tones.

EXAMPLE FORMULA

TC 5 vivid red OPTION 1 23g 5R + 7g R Mix UT red-orange +30g 20 Volume Cream Developer NL 6 natural brown Note: Although we’re going from level 6 to 5, we’re using 20 Volume Cream Developer L/T 1 level darker, from to expose more of the orange undertone to neutral to warm create a brighter, more vivid red. % Gray 0% Process for 35 - 45 minutes

56 Mix Tones can also be used in higher concentration with your formulas to create beautiful fashion shades, from soft pastels to vibrant jewel tones. Below are some examples of L’ANZA Color Concept formulas to achieve inspirational and durable shades.

Semi-Precious Stones Watercolors Sorbets Wildflowers Ocean Toscana

An opulent mix of hues. Soft, dreamy pastel tones. Flavorful blend of icy tones. Vibrant bouquet of colors. Tranquil shades of the seaside. Dreamy hues of the Italian countryside. Indian Carnelian Blush Kiwi Red Poppy Sea Spray Siena 20g 7CC + 10g R Mix 28g 100P + 1g R Mix + 1g G Mix 20g 100P + 8g G Mix + 2g B Mix 15g 6RRC + 10g R Mix + 5g C Mix 27g 100 + 1g B Mix + 1g G Mix + 1g C Mix 22g 100P + 4g 8C + 4g G Mix

Madeira Citrine Honeycomb Pear Snapdragon Shoreline Primavera 20g G Mix + 9g C Mix + 1g R Mix 25g 100 + 5g C Mix 24g 100 + 5g G Mix + 1g C Mix 24g 100V + 4g R Mix + 2g V Mix 15g 7NA + 10g 7B + 5g 8P 10g 8A + 16g G Mix + 4g B Mix

Yellow Topaz Vanilla Mango Marigold Surf Nuvola 12g 100 + 18g G Mix 29g 100 + 1g C Mix 14g 100 + 15g G Mix + 1g R Mix 18g G Mix + 12g C Mix 24g 100 + 3g B Mix + 3g G Mix 27g 100A + 1g B Mix + 1g C Mix + 1g G Mix

Imperial Jade Mint Pink Grapefruit Irish Bells Seashell Fragola 15g B Mix + 15g G Mix 28g 100 + 1g B Mix + 1g G Mix 28g 100 + 1g R Mix + 1g C Mix 8g 100P + 14g G Mix + 8g B Mix 10g 6BC + 10g 7NA + 10g 100B 19g 100 + 9g 4RV + 2g R Mix

Egyptian Lapis Sky Pomegranate Bluebonnet Marine Terra 15g 8A + 15g B Mix 28g 100A + 2g B Mix 21g 100 + 8g 4RV + 1g R 26g 8A + 4g B Mix 24g 8A + 3g B Mix + 3g G Mix 15g 3N + 15g 8A

African Amethyst Lavender Blackberry Purple Pansy Neptune Rosa Toscana 15g 8P + 15g V Mix 27g 100A + 1g R Mix + 1g B Mix + 1g V Mix 13g 100V + 11g V + 3g R + 3g B 25g 5V + 5g V Mix 16g 6A + 12g 7NA + 2g B Mix 23g 100V + 4g V + 2g R + 2g B

57 FORMULATION FOR BLONDING

BLONDING WITH PERMANENT COLOR To achieve very natural, warm blonde results, be sure to select a shade to control the Undertone and neutralize the unwanted warmth exposed during lifting.

FROM BLONDE TO BLONDER PERMANENT When starting at a Natural Level 7, you can blonde with Permanent Color. Lighten • Darken • Cover Gray • Typically, you will select 30 Volume Cream Developer for your formula to achieve sufficient lift. • This is an alternate option to using High Lift Blondes, Super Lift Blondes or Decolorizer. 1:1 20

EXAMPLE FORMULA 1 Part Healing Color TC 10 cool, light blonde 1 Part Cream Developer 30g + 30g (30, 40 Volume) UT yellow 10P 30 Volume Cream Developer NL 8 natural blonde

L/T 2 levels lighter, from neutral to cool 30 40 % Gray 0% Process for 35 - 45 minutes

30 Volume (9%) 40 Volume (12%)

Up to 3 levels of lift Up to 4 levels of lift

35 - 45 min 35 - 45 min

58 FROM BROWN TO BLONDE When starting at a Natural Level 5 or 6, you can achieve up to 3 levels of lift with Permanent Color. • Typically, you will select 30 or 40 Volume Cream Developer to achieve sufficient lift. • The results will usually fall in the Dark Blonde to Medium Blonde range.

EXAMPLE FORMULA TC 8 natural light blonde UT Orange NL 6 natural brown 30g 8A + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer

L/T 2 levels lighter, from neutral to cool % Gray 0% Process for 35 - 45 minutes

59 HIGH LIFT BLONDES AND SUPER LIFT L’ANZA is unique because we offer two options for additional lift with our High Lift Blondes and Super Lifts.

HIGH LIFT BLONDES (100 SERIES) SUPER LIFT (200 SERIES)

Ideal For Lifting from level 7 and higher. Lifting from level 6 and under.

Up to 4 levels of lift. Up to 5 levels of lift with greater refinement Levels of Lift Refines tone and controls warmth. of tone and control of warmth. 100A Ultra Light Ash Blonde 200A Super Lift Ash Shades 100B Ultra Light Beige Blonde 200AX Super Lift Extra Ash 100P Ultra Light Pearl Blonde 200P Super Lift Pearl 100V Ultra Light Violet Blonde 200V Super Lift Violet 100 Ultra Blonde Booster Ammonia Content 2.5% Ammonia 3.36% Ammonia

Cream Developer 1 part: Healing Color 1 part: Healing Color 2 parts: 40 Volume Cream Developer 2 parts: 40 Volume Cream Developer

Processing Time Up to 45 minutes 45 - 55 minutes

Toning After Decolorizing, the High Lift Blondes Not recommended for Glazing/Toning as make a great glaze/toner when for- a Demi Translucent due to higher pigment mulated as a Demi Translucent Color. concentration and ammonia content.

100 100A 100B 100P 100V Ultra Light Ultra Light Ultra Light Ultra Light Ultra Light Blonde Booster Ash Blonde Beige Blonde Pearl Blonde Violet Blonde

60 Neutral Base Blue-Green Base Yellow-Green Base Violet-Blue Base Violet Base BLONDING WITH HIGH LIFT BLONDES • Ideal for achieving up to 4 levels of lift when starting at Natural Level 7. • Higher ammonia content of 2.5% allows for more lift than L’ANZA classic shades. • Mix Healing Color 1:2 with 40 Volume Cream Developer, and process for up to 45 minutes.

EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR VIRGIN HAIR OR AT SCALP HIGH LIFT BLONDES Blonding • Highlighting TC 10 light beige blonde 30g 100P + 60g 40 Volume Cream Developer UT Orange Yellow NL 7 golden blonde 40 L/T 2 levels lighter, from 1:2 warm to cool Process up to 45 minutes

1 Part Healing Color (100 Series) 2 Parts Cream Developer (40 Volume)

100 100A 100B 100P 100V Ultra Light Ultra Light Ultra Light Ultra Light Ultra Light Blonde Booster Ash Blonde Beige Blonde Pearl Blonde Violet Blonde 40

Neutral Base Blue-Green Base Yellow-Green Base Violet-Blue Base Violet Base 40 Volume (12%)

Up to 4 Levels of lift

up to 45 min 61 BLONDING WITH SUPER LIFTS SUPER LIFT Deliver maximum lift with exceptional control of unwanted warmth Maximum Lift and Control in a single process. • Ammonia content of 3.36% provides a maximum lift of up to 5 levels. • Additional pigment concentration provides extra control of warmth and refinement of tone. • Ideal when starting at levels 6 and under. 1:2 40 EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR VIRGIN HAIR OR AT SCALP

TC 10 light cool blonde 1 Part Healing Color UT Orange (200 Series) 30g 200V + 60g 40 Volume Cream Developer 2 Parts Cream Developer NL 6 natural brown (40 Volume) L/T 4 levels lighter, from warm to cool % Gray 0% Process for 45-55 minutes

EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR VIRGIN HAIR OR AT SCALP 40 TC 10 light cool blonde UT Orange 30g 200AX + 60g 40 Volume Cream Developer NL 6 natural brown 40 Volume (12%)

L/T 4 levels lighter, Up to 5 Levels of lift from warm to neutral % Gray 0% Process for 45-55 minutes 45-55 minutes SUPER LIFT. EXCEPTIONAL CONTROL.

200A 200AX 200P 200V Super Lift Super Lift Super Lift Super Lift Ash Extra Ash Pearl Violet 62

Blue Base Green Base Violet-Blue Base Violet Base POWDER DECOLORIZER BLONDING WITH DECOLORIZER Blonding • Highlighting L’ANZA POWDER & CREAM DECOLORIZERS (Decolorizing up to 7 levels of lift) L’ANZA Decolorizers are ideal for lifting both artificial and natural pigment. Our exclusive Keratin Healing System ensures unmatched hair integrity and can be formulated for on or off-scalp lightening. 20 PD 1:2

1 Part Powder Decolorizer 2 Parts Cream Developer (Demi, 10, 20, 30, 40 Volume)

FEATURES BENEFIT CREAM Keratin Healing System Keratin Amino Acids, Minerals & Moisturizers ensure hair integrity during DECOLORIZER and after process. Blonding • Highlighting Controlled Lift Fast-acting and allows controlled lift for up to 7 levels. Easy to Use Smooth consistency allows for ideal application.

On or Off-Scalp Formulation Flexibility to achieve all types of services. CD 1:1 20

DON’T LET IT DRY OUT! 1 Part Cream Decolorizer 1 Part Cream Developer The Decolorizer formula must remain moist to continue lifting. If you find the formula (Demi, 10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) is starting to dry out, reapply. ON-SCALP Demi up to 10 Volume 60 min 20 Volume OFF-SCALP Demi up to 10 Volume 60 min 20 Volume 30 Volume 40 Volume 63 UNDERTONES WHEN ON-SCALP APPLICATION DECOLORIZING For on-scalp applications, be sure to use Demi, 10 Volume or 20 Volume Cream If you are decolorizing, remember to consider Developer only. the undertone exposed during the 7 stages of lift. There are 2 options for application when applying Decolorizer on-scalp. Use the Lifting Level Finder in the Swatch Binder to properly evaluate the APPLICATION OPTION 1 – first off-scalp, then on-scalp level of lift. • Mix off-scalp Decolorizer formula. Apply to hair, starting about 1” from scalp to the ends – do not apply all the way to scalp! Pale Yellow • Process until the mid-lengths and ends have lightened halfway to the desired level, Yellow then proceed to next step.

• Mix on-scalp Decolorizer formula. Gold • Apply on-scalp Decolorizer formula to the remaining 1” of hair at the scalp. • Process until the desired level of lift is achieved (up to 60 minutes). Red-Orange • Rinse completely with cool water. Gently cleanse with L’ANZA Healing Moisture Tamanu Cream Shampoo to replace moisture and soothe scalp. Red

• Tone as desired (see next section for toning guidelines). Brown

Black

EXAMPLE USING FORMULA FOR FIRST APPLICATION FORMULA FOR SECOND APPLICATION TONER APPLICATION OPTION 1 1” FROM SCALP TO ENDS FOR 1” AT SCALP TC 10 light blonde 30g 10P + 30g Translucent Color 30g Powder Decolorizer + 30g Powder Decolorizer + Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream UT Red 60g 30 Volume Cream Developer 60g 20 Volume Cream Developer Developer NL 4 natural brown Process until hair is lifted Apply to 1” of hair at the scalp. Process until L/T 6 levels lighter, to Pale/Yellow hair is lifted to Pale Yellow (up to 60 minutes). from warm to cool For even results, the level at mid-lengths and Process up to 20 minutes. (up to 60 minutes). ends should match the level at the scalp. % Gray 0% 64 APPLICATION OPTION 2 – first scalp to ends, then off-scalp • Mix on-scalp Decolorizer formula. Apply from the scalp to ends. • Process until hair at scalp has achieved desired level of lift (up to 60 minutes). • Rinse with cool water. Blot dry. • Reassess the amount of lift required for the mid-lengths to ends. Adjust the volume of Cream Developer if needed. • Mix the appropriate off-scalp Decolorizer formula. Apply starting about 1” from scalp to ends. • Process until the desired level of lift is achieved (up to 60 minutes). • Rinse completely with cool water. Gently cleanse with L’ANZA Healing Moisture Tamanu Cream Shampoo to replace moisture and soothe scalp. • Tone as desired (see next section for toning guidelines).

EXAMPLE USING FORMULA FOR FIRST APPLICATION FORMULA FOR SECOND APPLICATION TONER/GLAZE APPLICATION OPTION 2 FROM SCALP TO ENDS FROM MID-SHAFT TO ENDS TC 10 light blonde 30g 10P + 30g Translucent Color 30g Powder Decolorizer + 30g Powder Decolorizer + Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream UT Red 60g 20 Volume Cream Developer 60g 30 Volume Cream Developer Developer NL 4 natural brown Process until hair at scalp is lifted Apply 1” from scalp and process until hair is lifted L/T 6 levels lighter, to Pale Yellow (up to 60 minutes) to Pale Yellow (up to 60 minutes) from neutral to cool Process for up to 20 minutes % Gray 0% 65 STRAND TEST A strand test will assist you with formulation and processing. Hair porosity, previous color applications, and build-up of artificial pigments may not lift as expected. If the hair is not suitable to decolorizer after your strand test discoveries, recommend the proper L’ANZA treatment and regimen to prepare the hair for future service. A strand test is particularly valuable when removing artificial pigments from the hair. Before applying Decolorizer to the entire head, L’ANZA recommends that you conduct a strand test first to evaluate how easily the hair color will lift. CONDUCTING A STRAND TEST • Assess the hair and formulate the appropriate Decolorizer formula. Mix a small batch. • Isolate a small, unnoticeable section of hair, and apply the Decolorizer formula. • Check regularly to evaluate the level of lift and processing time. • Look for any potential issues such as uneven lift, the appearance of bands, or stubborn color deposits that show little signs of lift. • Determine if you should proceed with the Decolorizer service and/or recommend other services for the client.

USE OF HEAT L’ANZA DOES NOT RECOMMEND USING HEAT DURING PROCESSING OF DECOLORIZER Using heat may cause: • Excessive swelling of the cuticle, which can lead to compromised hair integrity and damage. • Increase sensitivity of the scalp, causing itching and burning for the client’s skin and/or eye irritation. APPLICATION Proper application is essential. • Be sure to take fine slices during application to make sure the hair is fully saturated with the decolorizer.

L’ANZA does not recommend placing a plastic cap over the head during processing time. This will prevent the ammonia gases from escaping, and may increase sensitivity, itching and/or redness. 66 GLAZING DEMI TRANSLUCENT FORMULA After Decolorizing, a Demi Translucent formula is often your best option for toning/glazing. For natural looking blondes with either warm or cool tones, we suggest using the following shades.

TO CONTROL WARMTH TO ENHANCE TONE

FAMILY BASE CONTROLS FAMILY BASE ENHANCES

NA/NV Violet Yellow tones and brassiness B Yellow-Green Beige tones P Violet-Blue Yellow-Orange tones G Yellow Yellow / Gold tones A Blue Orange tones GC Yellow-Orange Gold / Copper tones

AX Green Red tones

67 CORRECTIVE COLOR

Though daunting, the reality is that any time you are changing tone IS THE HAIR HEALTHY ENOUGH FOR COLOR or level on a hair strand beyond the “regular formula” for a client, CORRECTION? you are conducting a color correction. When doing corrective color services, always consider the Whether you are changing tone, removing color build-up or un- condition and health of the wanted color, going lighter or darker, creating low-lights, doing a hair. Is it strong enough to tint-back, or coloring gray-you will be correcting what the client withstand the multiple color processes required? currently has. PROPERLY ASSESS This section contains an overview for some color solutions outside THE HAIR FIRST! the standard or normal color services. This is not intended to be Proper assessment of the hair comprehensive and we recommend attending L’ANZA corrective and existing color are key color seminars when available in your area. factors to consider. Take the time to assess the hair correctly, and you will save time and the result will be more • COLOR CORRECTION IS NOT AS DIFFICULT AS IT MAY SEEM, AS LONG AS pleasing to your client. YOU REMEMBER THE BASIC LAWS OF COLOR, USE THE COLOR WHEEL AND UNDERSTAND HOW TO USE L’ANZA HEALING COLOR AND THE REMEMBER THE LAWS TOOLS PROVIDED. OF COLOR! DON’T MAKE COLOR CORRECTION • WHEN DOING CORRECTIVE COLOR SERVICES ALWAYS CONSIDER THE MORE DIFFICULT THAN CONDITION AND HEALTH OF THE HAIR. IT IS.

• SOMETIMES YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO CORRECT THE COLOR PROBLEM Remember the basic laws of color, use the Color Wheel as IN ONE SESSION. your guide, and understand how to use L’ANZA Healing • PROPER ASSESSMENT OF THE HAIR IS A KEY FACTOR TO CONSIDER. Color and the tools provided. DONE CORRECTLY, IT WILL SAVE YOU TIME AND THE RESULT WILL BE MORE PLEASING TO YOU AND THE CLIENT.

68 GOING LIGHTER LIFTING MORE THAN 4 LEVELS • Choose a Decolorizer and the right strength of developer for the target result. • Only lift to the level to the required supporting undertone of the Target Color. Refer to the Undertone Chart. • Remember when you tone you can only tone cooler, not lighter. It is recommended to lighten to the level necessary to obtain the result you want.

LIFTING UP TO 4 LEVELS • Choose the right strength of developer! Remember you will always expose warmth; decide if you want to enhance it or neutralize it. Refer to the Undertone Chart to decide what base is best for your Target Color.

GOING DARKER • Select the shade(s) to add back the missing pigments at the target level. Approximately ¼ of the mixture should be the missing pigments at the target level. Refer to the Undertone Chart.

GOING DARKER 1 TO 2 LEVELS

EXAMPLE FORMULA FORMULA FOR VERY RESISTANT HAIR TC 7 copper-gold UT Yellow 27g 7CG + 3g C Mix + 30g 7CG + 30g 10 Volume Healing Color Developer NL 9 blonde 60g Demi Healing Color Developer L/T 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm % Gray 0% Process up to 20 minutes Process up to 20 minutes

69 Beauty Bath HOT TIP: For color maximiza- A Beauty Bath can be used to create fashion techniques, address color tion and improved hair condi- correction, and countless other lightening services. This non-aggressive tion, always add 5g of Trauma process can be blended in three different strengths, and takes up to 20 Treatment to your color formula minutes to process, depending on the desired amount of lift.

Beauty Bath Formula: 30g – Healing Color Powder Decolorizer Blend with one of the following, and process up to 20 minutes, depending on your desired results:

MILD – 30g Water MEDIUM – 30g 10 Volume Healing Color Cream Developer MAXIMUM – 30g 20 Volume Healing Color Cream Developer

70 COLOR CLEANSE EXAMPLES HAIR IS NATURAL LEVEL 5 BROWN WITH LEVEL 3 BROWN ON THE ENDS. TARGET COLOR IS 5RRC (ULTRA RED COPPER). • A Beauty Bath is required to prevent the ends of the hair from appearing too dark. • A strong color cleanse formula was used to remove dark pigments from the ends, lifting to the appropriate Undertone for level 5 hair. • A formula of 5RRC with 20 Volume Cream Developer was applied to entire hair shaft and processed for recommended time.

BEFORE AFTER AFTER Beauty Bath Color Application

HAIR IS NATURAL LEVEL 10 BLONDE WITH LEVEL 7 COPPER ON THE ENDS. TARGET COLOR IS 9A (ASH). • A Beauty Bath is required to prevent the ends of the hair from appearing too dark or muddy. • A strong color cleanse formula was used to remove copper pigments from the ends, lifting to the appropriate Undertone for Level 9 hair. • A formula of equal parts of 9A and 9N with Demi Cream Developer was applied to the virgin hair at the base. • A formula of 9A with Demi Cream Developer was applied to the ends of the hair and processed for recommended time.

BEFORE AFTER AFTER Beauty Bath Color Application POST COLOR SERVICES

HAIR COLOR STAIN REMOVER • Effortlessly dissolves and removes hair color stains from skin, clothing, salon surface and tools • Gentle on skin, won’t cause irritation • Pleasing signature fragrance of Healing Color and Healing ColorCare

HEALING COLORCARE Protect and preserve for VIBES, LIQUIDS and Healing Color, while ensur- ing your clients keep their hair healthy and vibrant! Healing ColorCare contains L’ANZA’s remarkable Flower Shield Complex to preserve hair color longer – the same anti-fade compounds found in Healing Color and VIBES. The Keratin Healing System, plus advanced UV protection, combine to create vibrant and longer- lasting hair color over leading professional brands. So effective are these high-performing formulations, hair color is guaranteed to look rich and vibrant, longer!

• Color-Preserving Shampoo – daily shampoo • Color-Preserving Conditioner – daily conditioner • Trauma Treatment – a leave-in or rinse-out treatment • Color Guard – hair color protector • Color Illuminator – hair color brightener • Silver Brightening Shampoo – diminishes unwanted warmth and enhances cool tones in the yellow to yellow orange range • De-Brassing Blue Conditioner – controls orange and orange-red tones

72 LIQUIDS

Whether you are a dedicated L’ANZANISTA or completely new to L’ANZA, get ready to MAKE A SPLASH with LIQUIDS Demi Gloss. LIQUIDS can be used alone or intermixed with other LIQUIDS Demi Gloss Colors for outstanding color, shine and condition in under 20 minutes!

FEATURES AND BENEFITS: • No-lift, ammonia-free formula – won’t lift natural or previously colored pigment • Gentle pH balanced and processing • Gradually fades on tone, lasts up to 24 shampoos • Long-lasting dyes – for vibrant colors that fade on tone and won’t stain the scalp • Formulated with Lumiplex C, a blend of Vitamin C & Antioxidants that adds incredible shine & condition • Flower Shield prevents color fadage • Fast, easy color service – up to 20-minute processing time with NO HEAT • Can be applied using an applicator bottle or bowl and brush • Refreshing fragrance

LIQUIDS REFERENCE GUIDE Use the following guide to get optimal results.

TONE LTR RECOMMENDED FOR Create balanced natural looking blonde and brunette results. Recommend mixing with other Natural N LIQUIDS to soften hair color results. Great for use in Gray blending. Perfectly balanced to glaze and gloss after new color applications. Use to balance blonde hair effectively. Beige Beige Natural tones are perfect for creating multi-dimensional blonde tones and Natural BN warm brunette colors. Great for clients desiring subtle warmth in their color results.

Gold G Use to create stunning golden blondes and warm brunettes.

Enhance blonde, copper or brunette hair. Use in color correction Copper C services to fill in missing pigments.

Ultra-Copper CC Excellent for adding ultra-vibrancy and richness to coppers, blondes or brunettes.

Ultra-Red RR Create exciting and robust reds or add to blondes and brunettes for a bright pop of color.

Counteract warmth or use as a glaze to create cool, ash tones on blondes. Great to balance warmth Ash A on brunettes.

Extra Ash AX Use alone to provide additional control of unwanted warmth or mix with Natural shades for softer control of warmth. Neutralize yellow with our beautiful rich violet. Use to tone, cool and neutralize Violet V brass and warmth on blondes. Adds a cool element to Natural shades. 73

Pearl P Use to refine unwanted warmth and maximize coolness for exceptional platinum blondes. LIQUIDS DEMI GLOSS CHART Expand your service menu while increasing salon revenue with a versatile palette of 26 intermixable Demi Gloss Tones that deliver AMAZING & PREDICTABLE results.

LIQUIDS DEMI GLOSS DEMI PERMANENT Glaze • Tone • Correct

1:1

1 Part Liquids Demi Gloss 1 Part Liquids Demi Gloss Activator

TIMING *Swatch Colors Shown are for representation Processing up to only. Actual results may vary. Time 20 min

74 VIBES

Proprietary High-Impact Dye Technology introduces a new generation of direct dyes, creating longer-lasting, mirror-reflective color results. VIBES are completely intermixable, offering unlimited options for color customization. Mix VIBES Clear with any other VIBES shade to create softer, pastel hues, or use it alone for brilliant shine.

Red 6-7 (Red-Orange/Orange) Blue 7 (Orange) Orange 8 (Yellow-Orange) Teal 8 (Yellow-Orange) Yellow 9 (Yellow) Blush 9-10 (Pale Yellow/Yellow) Magenta 9-10 (Pale Yellow/Yellow) Bare 10 (Pale Yellow) Smoke 10 (Pale Yellow) Violet 10 (Pale Yellow) For the most vibrant and intense color, pre-lighten to level indicated.

Blue Teal Violet Magenta Red Orange Yellow Bare Blush Smoke Clear

75 PREPARING TO USE VIBES: Pre-VIBES • VIBES shades do not require developer. Mix directly from the tube, To significantly improve using a bowl and brush. color attachment and • VIBES Clear can be mixed with any formula to soften and/or adjust the intensity of end results. seal in your VIBES, • To achieve the purest most intense color, pre-lighten hair using L’ANZA use COLOR ATTACH – Healing Powder or Cream Decolorizer. Refer to chart as a guide, Step 1: Color Pre-Treat- keeping in mind that any undertones will contribute to final color results. ment & Step 2: Color • Apply L’ANZA Protective Barrier Cream to client’s hairline to minimize any Post-Treatment. unwanted staining. Always avoid scalp and skin during application to reduce staining. Post-VIBES APPLICATION OF VIBES Prescribing L’ANZA • For best results, apply to clean hair that is dry, or slightly damp. Healing ColorCare • Use suitable gloves to protect your skin and clothing from staining. products will preserve • Apply VIBES directly to hair and saturate completely avoiding scalp and skin. and protect the • Process 15 to 30 minutes, keeping in mind that intensity is maximized life of your VIBES. at 30 minutes. • Rinse VIBES thoroughly with water until it runs clear. Lightly shampoo HOT TIP The more with L’ANZA Healing ColorCare Color-Preserving Shampoo. Apply VIBES you add, the L’ANZA Healing ColorCare Color-Preserving Conditioner and rinse. • Towel dry and apply L’ANZA Healing ColorCare Color Guard. longer and more • If required, use L’ANZA Haircolor Stain Remover to remove staining. vibrant the results!

Glampoo L’ANZA does not Glampoo is a quick service that will add a temporary burst of high-impact color. recommend mixing Temporary color lasts depending on the amount of direct color added to the VIBES with any Healing formula. A pre-lightening service is recommended for more vibrant results. Color shades, Healing Color Developer, or Step 1: Using a bowl and brush, blend 15g of Silver Brightening Shampoo + up any similar products. to 5g of your favorite VIBES Shade. Mix well. Step 2: Apply Glampoo to re-touch area first, for proper saturation. Step 3: Apply to remaining hair at the shampoo bowl, keep in for 3-5 minutes, and rinse out. Blow-dry and style. Glampoo hue will last up to 3-5 washes. Pre-lighten to recommended levels for maximum impact. 76 TOOLS FOR APPLICATION

L’ANZA Healing Color was designed to be applied to the hair with a brush and bowl. FOR BEST RESULTS • Take fine slices of hair to ensure even saturation. • Thoroughly lay the color with your brush on the hair. Do not “scrape” the hair with the bristles, as this will remove color from the hair. • Be sure to cross-check your application to make sure all hair is thoroughly saturated. • Apply color up to the hairline. The Protective Barrier Cream will help prevent staining of the skin, but will not block hair color coverage along the hairline.

DO NOT OVERWORK THE HAIR! PROCESS FOR THE FULL TIME During application, do not “overwork” the hair by moving If you remove the color before the end of the processing time, it back and forth too much or combing back and forth the color molecules will not have the proper time to fully develop. after application. This may increase client sensitivity and This may affect the tonality of your end result, or it may affect also cause the color to shift. the durability of your client’s color, causing it to fade quickly Apply it right the first time – you’ll get better results and save time! or off-tone.

77 MEASURING HEALING COLOR: THE L’ANZA SCALE

The use of the scale is simple and will ensure correct, predictable and accurate formulation for each application. The use of the scale will also help save money, because you can measure the exact amount of color needed. SCALE USAGE INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Place empty color bowl on scale. 2. Turn on scale. 3. Select grams or ounces. 4. Measure the correct amount of color into the bowl. 5. Measure correct amount of developer into the bowl.

TIPS • Turn scale on and press the “tare” button to set to 0 (do this after you set your bowl at the top.) • If you have unused color following your application, you can measure the remaining color left in the bowl and record this information on your Client Record Card. Next time, you can adjust the amount of product you prepare, saving product and money.

CONDUCTING A PATCH TEST A patch test is always recommended to protect the client from unexpected sensitivity during a color service. This is a vital practice, especially for a new guest, as some people are sensitive to hair color ingredients. TO PERFORM A PATCH TEST: 1. Cleanse a small area of the skin behind the ear or the inner surface of the forearm, using either soap and water or alcohol. 2. Mix a small quantity of the hair color formula as prepared for actual use. 3. Apply color to the prepared area and let dry completely. 4. After 48 hours, gently wash the test area with soap and water. 5. If no irritation or inflammation is apparent, it is usually assumed that no hypersensitivity to the formula exists. 78 PREPARING THE HAIR FOR A COLOR SERVICE

Professional Service COLOR ATTACH Step-1 | Color Pre-Treatment • Significantly improves color attachment for both oxidative and direct dye services • Primes the hair fiber to boost color uptake and deposition • Creates color attachment sites in the cortex to improve color adhesion • Deposits more pigments per square micrometer • Equalizes porosity for more even coverage • Increases color density by 48%

CORTICAL ADHESION TECHNOLOGY™ To boost color uptake and deposition, Lipophilic Receptors are infused into the hair and affixed to the cortical membrane. These receptors establish color attachment sites within the hair that dramatically increase adherence of color pigments. This advanced technology ensures maximum pigment density per square micrometer for unmatchedhair color richness.

COLOR ATTACH Step-1 Lipophilic Color Pre-Treatment Receptors

HOW TO USE: Prior to a color service, spray Color Pigments COLOR ATTACH Step-1 into hair and comb through. Then proceed with the color service as usual. May be used with oxidative or direct dye color. Will not dilute color or affect hue. Works on all Cortical Membrane hair types. 79 Professional Service COLOR ATTACH Step-2 | Color Post-Treatment • Seals in hair color with a weightless, durable color shield • Stops any residual oxidative processing • Locks down cuticle and instantly detangles • Enhances color richness and vividness • Rebuilds disulfide bridges to boost strength • Provides high-temperature thermal protection • Provides a durable shine with 148% more reflectivity

REGENERATIVE THERAPY COMPLEX™ Hair is in an extremely fragile state directly after a color service. At this vulnerable phase, it’s imperative that proper post-care rehabilitation occurs immediately to ensure durable, long-lasting color. Regenerative Therapy Complex fully restores hair’s anatomical integrity, allowing for enhanced color richness and brilliance.

COLOR ATTACH Step-2 CLEAR SEAL delivers a Color Post-Treatment weightless, durable color shield HOW TO USE: After shampooing color from hair, spray directly into towel- dried hair and comb through. MONOMERS Then style hair as desired. close down cuticles May be used with any brand & lock in color of oxidative or direct dye color. pigments Will not dilute color or affect hue. Works on all hair types. CYSTINE AMINO ACIDS rebuild damaged disulfide bridges 80 GLOSSARY

Acid – a water-based solution which falls between 0 and 7 on the pH scale. Color Attachment Technology – a L’ANZA exclusive technology Hydrogen Peroxide is an acid which is found in varying concentrations in which consists of the combination of the Keratin Healing System and the L’ANZA Healing Color Developers. It assists in the oxidation of artificial color Flower Shield Complex. molecules. Adjective: acidic Cortex – the main component of the hair which is made up of keratin Alkali – a water-based solution which falls between 7 and 14 on the pH fibers and is found beneath the Cuticle. It is responsible for the hair’s scale. Ammonia is an alkali which is found in L’ANZA Healing Color and as- mechanical properties such as housing melanin and elasticity, and is the sists in the oxidation of artificial color molecules. Adjective: alkaline most important hair structure for hair coloration.

Amino Acid – the building block of protein. L’ANZA uses human hair Cream Developer – the creamy base which contains the hydrogen Keratin as its protein source. There are 19 amino acids which make up human peroxide required for developer hair color Precursors. L’ANZA Cream hair keratin. These include amino acids noted in L’ANZA’s proprietary Developers also contain the Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield complexes: Tyrosine in Healing Colorcare, Cysteine in Healing Strength Complex to heal, seal and protect the hair. These developers do not and Leucine in Healing Smooth. contain any ammonia. Cuticle Ammonia - a naturally occurring alkali which is composed of Nitrogen and – the outer layer of the hair which is made up of flat overlapping Hydrogen. Ammonia is found in L’ANZA Healing Color and is instrumental cells. It protects the cortex and greatly influences the look and feel of the in the oxidation of color molecules through their interaction with hydrogen hair. A flat, healed cuticle tangles less, holds in hair color and reflects light. peroxide. L’ANZA Healing Color contains 1.68% ammonia in its standard A damaged cuticle is a major cause of color fading, poor light reflection, shades, 2.5% ammonia in its High Lift Blonde Series (100), and 3.36% in its and tangling. Super Lift Blonde Series (200). Cuticle Cortex Membrane (CCM) – an ultra-thin membrane which surrounds all cuticle and cortex cells and connects them to one another. Carotenoid – a class of naturally occurring phyto-compounds found in Direct Pigments may stain the CCM. flowers which help protect them from sun damage. Carotenoids protect the warm pigments ranging from yellow to orange to deep red. Carotenoids Decolorizer – L’ANZA offers four types of Decolorizer: Powder, Cream, from yellow roses, calendula flowers and hibiscus flowers are contained in Clay and Ultra Bloding. Powder and Cream both contain the Keratin Healing the Flower Shield Complex. System which leaves hair in the healthiest state possible. The Powder Decolorizer is mixed 1:2, while the Cream Decolorizer is mixed 1:1. Clay 1:1 Certified Organic – a classification of organic products which is defined or 1: 2. Either can be formulated with Demi, 10 Volume or 20 Volume Cream by a set of production standards for growing, storage and processing, that Developer for on-scalp lightening, and up to 40 Volume Cream Developer include: avoidance of most synthetic additives (chemical fertilizers, for off-scalp lightening. Clay off-scalp only. antibiotics, pesticides, food additives), irradiation, genetically-modified organisms, use of farmlands which have been free from such synthetics Demi Permanent Color – deposit-only hair color which penetrates the for a number of years (usually 3 or more), detailed audit trails, strict separation Cuticle layer depositing color into the Cuticle and partly into the Cortex of of organic and certified organic products, and periodic on-site inspections. the hair. This type of color does may disturb the natural Melanin even with L’ANZA chooses Certified Organic ingredients whenever possible for low ammonia and peroxide levels and generally lasts from 4 to 6 weeks. inclusion in their products. It is recommended for color refreshing, filling, corrective color, color layering and modern gray coverage. To create Demi Permanent Color, Chlorophyll – a phyto-compound found in most plants which helps the simply mix L’ANZA Healing Color with L’ANZA Demi Cream Developer! plant produce food though photosynthesis. It protects green pigments in the plant from sun damage. L’ANZA utilizes chlorophyll from green orchids for the same purpose in the Flower Shield Complex.

81 Demi Translucent Color – a virtually ammonia-free, sheerer formulation Gray Blending – shading the hair so not all gray hair will be covered of L’ANZA Healing Color which penetrates the cuticle only. Used to tone, completely. Keeping natural tonal variations in results are ideal for clients refresh, brighten and seal the hair. To create a Demi Translucent Color, that don’t want continued color maintenance or a definite line of demarcation. simply mix L’ANZA Healing Color thoroughly with Translucent Catalyst (1:1) before adding Demi Cream Developer (1:2). High Lift Blonde - indicated by a 100 in the name, these shades contain 2.5% ammonia and can lift up to 4 levels. L’ANZA High Lift Blondes are Deposit – the amount or quality of a hair color’s ability to saturate the hair designed to be mixed with 2 parts 40 Volume Cream Developer for lifting strand. or used in a Demi Translucent Color Formula for toning. Direct Pigment – also known as direct dyes, these are fully-oxidized color Hydrogen Peroxide – an acid composed of Hydrogen and Oxygen pigments which stain the Cuticle and CCM when depositing. These which is instrumental in causing oxidation to occur in most oxidative hair pigments are more permanent on porous hair, and less permanent on colors. It is found in varying amounts in the L’ANZA Cream Developers. nonporous hair. L’ANZA Healing Color only contains direct pigment in its Red Mix Tone, and that direct pigment is responsible for the pink color that Keratin – the protein which makes up human hair, skin and nails. It is the Red Mix Tone has when it is squeezed from the tube. This helps grouped into two categories: hard and soft. Soft Keratin makes up skin, increase the vibrancy. while hard Keratin comprises hair and nails. Double Process Blonde - a method of lightening which requires more Keratin Healing System – a L’ANZA exclusive technology which heals than one step. For example, using L’ANZA Powder Decolorizer to first lighten the hair from the inside out through the use of vital Keratin Amino Acids, the hair and then using a Demi Translucent formula to tone. minerals and moisture. Extra Ceramide-2 improves even color results. The Elasticity – the hair’s ability to stretch and return to shape. Keratin Healing system is found in Healing Color shades and Cream Developers and in all L’ANZA Advanced Healing products. Existing Level (EL) – the level of darkness which the hair has due to pre- L’ANZA Cream Developer vious coloring, sun exposure, etc. This may be the same as the Natural Level. – a blend of Hydrogen Peroxide, conditioning agents and buffers (Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex) Fill – the process where a color formula is applied prior to the Target Color suspended in a base to allow the ingredients to mix in a stable consistency. formula, designed to replace missing Undertones for the purpose of tint- L’ANZA Cream Developer is mixed with L’ANZA Healing Color to create back procedures or gray coverage. Filling the hair will increase depth of oxidation and development of color. It is the ONLY recommended devel- tone, longevity of color, and prevent off-tone fading. L’ANZA recommends oper when using L’ANZA Healing Color and is available in Demi (1.75%), 10 using a Healing Color Demi Permanent Color formula to fill. Volume (3%), 20 Volume (6%), 30 Volume (9%) and 40 Volume (12%).

Flavonoids – phyto-compounds found in plants which protect the violet Level - the degree of lightness or darkness of the hair indicated by a and blue pigments in the plant’s flowers from UV damage. Flavonoids from number. L’ANZA uses a scale from 1 through 10 to describe level, with 1 Echinacea and Cornflower are used in the Flower Shield Complex for the representing black and 10 representing lightest blonde. same purpose. Lifting Flower Shield Complex – L’ANZA’s exclusive formulation uses phy- – the chemical act of making hair lighter in level, either by tinting to- compounds from 7 color-specific flowers to provide full-spectrum hair or decolorizing. color protection. Carotenoids from yellow roses, calendula, and MEA (Monoethanolamine) – a non-naturally occurring alkali which is hibiscus,protect the yellow, orange and red spectrum. Flavonoids from used in place of ammonia in “ammonia-free” hair color formulations. L’ANZA Echinacea and cornflower protect the violet and blue spectrum. Chloro- Healing Color does NOT contain MEA. Hair colors containing MEA require phyll from green orchids protects the green spectrum while White Gar- more precise mixing, are harder to shampoo from the hair, and are often denia compounds fill in any gaps. Flower Shield Complex can be found in less effective in formulas designed to lift and deposit. There is no evidence L’ANZA Healing Color, Cream Developer, and Healing Colorcare to reduce fading. that MEA causes less damage to the hair than ammonia. 82 GLOSSARY

Medulla – when present, the medulla can influence the overall sheen of PCA – a category of compounds that are naturally-occurring humectants the hair, but has no additional cosmetic effect. The medulla is not present which L’ANZA uses in the Moisture Retain Complex to help the hair stay in all human hair stands. hydrated.

Melanin – the natural pigments found in the cortex of human hair. Melanin Permanent Hair Color – Non-Direct Pigments which oxidize in the consists of eumelanin (dark brown and black pigments) and phaeomelanin Cortex and alter the hair’s natural Melanin. It can be used for lifting or dark- (warm pigments which appear as gold, copper or red hair). ening the hair and for traditional gray coverage. A line of demarcation will result when new growth occurs, due to the alteration of the natural Mela- Mix Tones – L’ANZA Healing Color shades which are used to enhance nin. Any lifting or lightening procedure is considered Permanent Color. tone or control warmth. Add up to 25% to the Target Color formula. These Simply add L’ANZA Healing Color to 10, 20, 30, or 40 Volume Cream Devel- can also be used in higher concentrations, to create bold, fashion shades. oper to create Permanent Color. Mix Tone shades include: Red Mix (R), Blue Mix (B), Gold Mix (G), Copper, Mix (C), Extra Ash Mix (X), and Violet Mix (V). pH – refers to the acidity or alkalinity of a water-based solution. It is represented by a scale from 0-14 with acidic solutions represented with Nano Science – refers to the study and use of chemical and biological numbers below 7 and alkaline solutions with numbers above 7. Distilled structures with dimensions ranging from 1-100 nanometers. A nanometer water is considered a neutral solution and is represented by the number is extremely small, measuring only one billionth of a meter in size. Nano 7. Human hair has a pH range from 4.5-5.5, and L’ANZA Healing Haircare Science shrinks active ingredients to such small sizes that they can supports this with products which support the hair’s proper pH. penetrate through the Cuticle and deeper into the Cortex of the hair. L’ANZA’s Nano Science 102 delivery system means that the ingredients measure PPD (p-Paraphenylene Diamine) – a key component in permanent 100nm, which is safe for cosmetic products. hair color in many color brands, which is required for the formation of oxidative color pigments. Without PPD, hair color would not be permanent, Natural Level – the level of darkness which the hair has naturally, as it cover gray or lift. Most manufacturers of permanent hair color, including grows from the scalp. L’ANZA, use PPD in their formulations.

Non-Direct Pigments – also known as “oxidative color” these pig- Porosity – a term used to refer to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain ments start as “Precursors”, or small undeveloped pigments. These moisture. Equalization of the hair’s porosity is crucial for optimum color Precursors are able to pass through the Cuticle and enter the Cortex durability and moisture retention. L’ANZA equalizes the hair’s porosity where they are oxidized to create a color change. Non-Direct Pigments through healing, with the Keratin Healing System. Porous hair absorbs hair affect the natural Melanin in the hair and have little or no staining effect. color quickly but rapidly loses it, while non-porous hair takes more time to L’ANZA Healing Hair color uses Non-Direct Pigments to create long-lasting, absorb color but retains it well. Resistant hair is non-porous and may re- vibrant hair color. quire careful thought in the formulation process.

Organic – a general term given to products produced according to certain Precursors – undeveloped, oxidative color pigments, which are small standards, especially the use of only naturally-produced fertilizers and and colorless. As they pass into the hair, they react with the oxidative ingre- non-chemical means of pest control. dients found in the developer, and they change color and size to create a permanent color molecule. Oxidation – The combination of a substance with Oxygen. In L’ANZA Healing Hair color, oxidation takes place when the peroxide (made Primary Color – Universally, Primary Colors cannot be produced by mixing of Hydrogen and Oxygen) in the Cream Developer interacts with the color other colors together, and are the building blocks of all other colors in the Precursors, causing the color molecules to grow and change into the rainbow. These foundational colors are red, yellow and blue. When mixed in Target Color. the proper proportions, varying shades of neutral are achieved.

83 Secondary Color – a mix of two Primary Colors resulting in shades of Tertiary Color – the result of mixing a Primary Color and a Secondary orange, violet and green. Color. For example, red (primary) + orange (secondary) = red-orange (tertiary).

Semi Permanent Hair color – non-oxidative hair color which deposits Texture – as a general term, hair colorists often use the word Texture to color into the outer Cortex (often through the use of heat) with little or encompass the density, wave pattern and elasticity of hair. More no effect on the natural Melanin. Due to the poor durability of this type of specifically, Texture is used to describe whether hair is fine, medium or coarse. color and possibility of staining, L’ANZA Healing Color uses its Demi Translucent formulations in place of Semi Permanent Hair color. Tone – hair color’s chromatic reflection which is indicated by a letter (For example, R for red). Also, tone can refer to the process of refining, con- Sodium Chloride-Free – refers to shampoos that do not contain trolling or enhancing warmth in pre-lightened hair through the use of L’ANZA Sodium Chloride. Commonly referred to as “table salt,” Sodium Chloride may Demi Translucent formulas. be used as a thickening agent in some shampoos, but it is also known to accelerate the fading of hair color or reverse the effects of keratin smoothing Translucent Color Catalyst – an additive which is used in L’ANZA services. All of L’ANZA shampoos in the Advanced Healing Collection are Healing Color to neutralize the ammonia in the color in order to cause it to Sodium Chloride-Free. perform like an acid color. Translucent Color Catalyst is essential in making sheer formulations which are ideal for toning, sealing, corrective color and Sulfates – refers to the sulfate-based surfactants in shampoos. These adding slight tonal change with incredible shine. can be identified easily in the list of ingredients, since they all end the word “Sulfate” (such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate). Undertone – also called “contributing pigment”, Undertone is the term used for the color which is exposed during the lifting process. Undertone Sulfate-Free – refers to shampoos that use non-sulfate surfactants. influences the color result and needs to be considered for enhancement These provide lather and effective cleansing while being gentler on the or control of that tone. Undertones affect many areas which are important scalp and more effective for retention of hair color. Due to their official to the colorist including, Gray Coverage, Filling, and Corrective Coloring. names, they are not as easily identified (such as Sodium Cocyl Isethionate or Sodium Lauryol Sarconsinate); however, they can be distinguished Volume – the scientific definition to explain the amount of Oxygen from sulfate-based surfactants as they will not end in the word “Sulfate.” produced as Hydrogen Peroxide decomposes. 1 Volume of Hydrogen All L’ANZA Shampoos in the Advanced Healing Collection are Sulfate-free. Peroxide produces 20 Volumes of Oxygen.

Super Lift - indicated by a 200 in the name, these shades contain 3.36% ammonia and can lift up to 5 levels. L’ANZA Super Lift are designed to be mixed with 2 parts 40 Volume Cream Developer for lifting.

Surfactants – the lathering agents found in shampoos that provide the cleansing action. Various types of surfactants are often combined to create the immediate and lasting foaming action. Some surfactants are sulfate-based (such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), non-sulfate-based (such Sodium Cocyl Isethionate) or natural surfactants (such Gugo Bark Extract or Soap Bark Extract).

Temporary Color – Derived from vegetable or mineral tints, this color attaches itself to the Cuticle and does not stain unless the hair is extremely damaged. Common types of Temporary Color would include color cray- ons, hair color sprays, water rinses and color mousses. 84