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CALIFORNIA ZINFANDEL : C A HAPPILY HEDONISTIC LIFORNI A Z INF A Stephen Brook introduces a tasting, shared with Alex Hunt MW and NDEL Andrew Jeford, which showed that California’s signature grape variety, while still sometimes prone to alcoholic excess, is capable of producing fine wines of structure and seriousness, even if its greatest talent is for a simple, uninhibited, succulent fruitiness that is rarely encountered elsewhere

infandel is a chameleon, capable jamminess and Portiness is often Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But the STEPHEN BROOK’S TOP WINES of putting on all manner of CELEBRATED OLD regarded as part of the varietal profile, eastern edges of the appellation, well TODAY THERE ARE St Francis Old Vines Zinfandel Sonoma County guises: fruity dry red, Port-like, VINEYARDS SURVIVE, although I would dispute this. Excessive away from the coastal ranges, can be MANY WINEMAKERS Z 2015 94 and—heaven help us—white (which is sugar levels at harvest result not only warm. Nonetheless, even these sites are AND THE CLIMATIC WHO SEEK, OFTEN Hartford Old Vine Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard a euphemism for pink and sickly sweet). in jamminess but in high alcohols. cooler than most of those in Dry Creek, Russian River Valley 2015 93 No wonder it is sometimes difficult CONDITIONS SEEM Whereas a handful of producers and the consequence is that the vines WITH SUCCESS, Dry Creek Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma to persuade wine drinkers to take JUST RIGHT: PLENTY regularly succeed in producing Zins need more time to ripen and thus attain TO PRODUCE WINES County 2014 92 the variety seriously. The fact that for OF THE WARMTH THAT that hover around the 14% mark— higher sugars (and alcohols) than most THAT HAVE DENSITY Ravenswood Teldeschi Zinfandel Single Vineyard decades it had no fixed place of origin Nalle and Rafanelli, for example— of their Dry Creek counterparts. There Dry Creek Valley 2014 92 Easton Zinfandel Amador County 2014 92 didn’t help. (Was it from Italy? Or ZINFANDEL REQUIRES, are also some good Zinfandel sites in AND COMPLEXITY most tend to be about 15% or more. Sobon Estate Zinfandel Rocky Top Amador County Croatia? Or none of the above?) PLUS A RANGE OF Given the natural fruitiness of good Mendocino, and plenty in Paso Robles, WITHOUT SACRIFICING 2014 92 Yet there are red-wine lovers, WELL-DRAINED SOIL Zinfandel, such alcohol levels need which certainly has the warmth that’s THE HEDONISTIC Edmeades Mendocino County Zinfandel 2013 92 including the three tasters here, that TYPES AND DIFFERENT not pose a problem, so long as the needed. The very oldest vines are in ASPECT OF THE Limerick Lane Zinfandel Russian River Valley relish Zinfandel, if not unreservedly. wine is sufficiently juicy and robust to Amador County, but the wines can show Sonoma County 2015 92 It may not be a noble grape, but it’s ELEVATIONS absorb high alcohol or at least make it a certain rusticity. That’s probably more VARIETY Hartford Old Vine Zinfandel Russian River Valley capable of making truly enjoyable red barely perceptible. the result of inexpert winemaking, 2016 91 Williams Selyem Papera Vineyard Zinfandel 2014 91 wines. It remains true that its typicity in a more complex wine, with varieties Unfortunately, there has long been since there is a handful of magnificent One could cite Ridge as a pioneer Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs Dry Creek Valley is hard to pin down. As well as the such as Carignan boosting the acidity a cult of overripe Zins, especially Zins from the Sierra Foothills. of this style, but today there are many Sonoma County 2015 91 aforementioned pink concoctions of the field blend, while the probable in regions such as Paso Robles and The tasters’ overall responses other winemakers who seek, often Grgich Hills Estate Zinfandel Estate Grown Napa and sometimes impressive Port-style role of Petite Sirah was to deepen the Amador County in the Sierra Foothills, confirm that there is no single Zinfandel with success, to produce wines that Valley 2012 91 wines, it yields serious reds in a range wine’s color. where wines of around 17% are not benchmark and that a range of styles have density and complexity without Radio-Coteau Lemorel Sonoma Coast Zinfandel of styles. Picked relatively early Shortly before harvest, it’s not unusual. This taster finds most of them is permissible, indeed welcome. sacrificing the hedonistic aspect of Sonoma County 2013 91 Shenandoah Vineyards Amador County Zinfandel or grown at a high elevation, it can unusual to find some green berries undrinkable, but they have their Alex Hunt and Andrew Jefford surely the variety. Andrew Jefford questions 2015 90 exhibit red-fruit characters; picked jostling shriveled ones on a Zinfandel following, especially when packaged express a widely held view, which I whether even the better wines can Frog’s Leap Zinfandel Napa Valley 2015 90 late, as many are, it displays brooding vine. This is the notorious uneven with garish labels declaring them to be share, when they relish in particular acquire much in the way of density, Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley black fruits. ripening at work. It complicates the “Monster Zins” or “Cardinal Zins.” an overtly fruity and exuberant style. weight, or complexity. That he is almost Somoma County 2014 90 In areas such as Sonoma’s Dry Creek winemaker’s task, because it’s not However, Hunt’s surprise at finding certainly right should not, as he insists, or Sonoma Valley, or in Mendocino, evident what the final result will be like. Enjoyment across a range of styles much to enjoy in more structured and detract from our admiration of a well- there are pockets of very old Zinfandel In practice, wineries will tolerate some It’s widely acknowledged that the sweet serious wines, especially from Dry made, utterly pleasurable Zin. That AVERAGE AND RANGE OF SCORES vines, increasingly prized as they divergence; a few green berries may spot for Zinfandel is Dry Creek Valley. Creek, reflects a growing sophistication it may not scale the greatest heights Average Range diminish in number, as growers are add a little valuable acidity, while the A number of celebrated old vineyards among Zin producers. They haven’t need not be cause for disappointment, tempted to pull them out in order to raisined few will contribute intensity such as Teldeschi survive, and the needed to set off rigorously in pursuit given its hedonistic character. Ambition Tasting 87 70–93 replant more profitable varieties such and sucrosity. climatic conditions seem just right: of balance to understand that harmony for its own sake—whether in terms SB 90 70–92 as Cabernet Sauvignon. Those ancient However, in California, where the plenty of the warmth that Zinfandel is a desirable attribute even in a wine of extraction or excessive new oak or vineyards are not usually varietally pure. merest hint of greenness is normally requires to ripen, plus a range of that is the enological equivalent of a extreme concentration—is not always AH 87 83–94 The old-timers, aware of Zinfandel’s regarded with dread by winemakers and well-drained soil types and different rock band. It’s a hard trick to pull off, a virtue. A well-made Zinfandel, propensity for uneven ripening, consumers alike, the tendency is to veer elevations that allow for different given the pitfalls to which the variety across a range of styles, is a delectable AJ 85 76–93 judiciously planted rows of other toward overripeness. Moreover, as Alex expressions of the grape. There is a is prone, but an ever growing number wine that doesn’t demand respect. varieties such as Carignan, Mourvèdre, Hunt MW observed, underpowered handful of old Zin vineyards in Russian of winemakers is now succeeding All it calls for is a capacity to provide or Petite Sirah. Often this resulted Zins can seem thin and weedy. Some River Valley, which is better known for more often than not. huge enjoyment.

210 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 60 | 2018 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 60 | 2018 | 211 tasting / savor/ California Zinfandel Stephen Brook SB | Alex Hunt MW AH | Andrew Jeford AJ SAV Dry Creek Vineyard Old Vine charm is there, and all that late-summer warmth, done by deliciously juicy acids; any oak is well out of heaviness or excess. Alcohol does make a brief ALEX HUNT MW’S VERDICT Zinfandel Sonoma County 2014 92 too, but there is a concentration, a substance, of view. Super-exciting young Zin, and well worth appearance toward the finish, but not really to the OR (14.5% ABV) a density to that warm berry fruit that lifts it seeking out for a full-throttle VR mouthful. | 90 detriment of the overall balance; the fruit is juicy Even if Zinfandel can be regarded as a Less successful were those wines that above its peers. Some tobacco complexity takes enough to justify it. | 93 chameleon variety to an extent, I have hitherto strayed in the direction of Cabernet, either : C

SB | Opulent black-fruits nose, super-ripe but it beyond the merely fruity; delicate textures, Easton Zinfandel Old Vine AJ | Dark but translucent black-red. Sweet, always tended to favor one particular style. herbaceous or tight and introvert. These are A without jamminess. Rich and broad, fleshy and too; and vivid but ripe acidity helps lift the fruit. Fiddletown Rinaldi Vineyard 2011 90 soupy, warmly raisiny scents; a little cigar-leaf When it hits the fresh-ripe bull’s-eye—plum- traits that sit ill with Zin. Likewise, while it LIFORNI weighty, with firm tannins to give structure. A Beautifully done. | 92 (14.5% ABV) complexity. Gently attractive. On the palate, jam-scented but not jammy, sweet with fruit has a bit of leeway for either oxidation or complex wine, with heft and spice and admirable it just tumbles over the ripeness threshold into but not sugary, silky but structured—Zin ofers reduction, and indeed an afnity with oak, concentration. There’s an earthiness that is SB | Deep red with no sign of evolution. Sweet, a soft jamminess, though it has fair concentration a singular delight that resembles no other some wines went too far. When a variety decidedly appealing—and welcome after the airy intense, cherry-pie nose, with a dash of mint. and a little textural depth. Enjoyable and mellow wine. This is the style that the likes of Hartford has such winning natural fruit, the last thing A Z and Ravenswood have delivered consistently it should endure is bruised-apple or gravy- flightiness of the 2015s. The finish is solid without Lean and zesty, still fresh and nimble, though the now, and jamminess might be relished by some INF being clumsy or tough, and there is good length tannins are still very present and intense, with Zin drinkers. | 85 for years, and they gave fine accounts in like oxidation, or the whif of drains, or an as well. | 92 some mocha tones, too. It’s a tad severe and dry this tasting. impenetrable smear of caramel oak. A NDEL AH | The initial aroma of classy, spicy oak on the finish, which is at odds with the wine’s I was pleasantly surprised, however, to A final note on alcohol: There was a gives way to some rather grand, understated sucrosity. Interesting and characterful, yet not find so many good wines that didn’t fit this tremendous range among the best wines, blackberry/blueberry fruit. On the palate, harmonious. Quite long. | 89 particular paradigm. We saw wines with from 12.8% to 15.7%. This goes to show once extra gravitas and grip, particularly from Dry again that alcohol itself is neither a good nor although there’s no confusing the fruit style, AH | Quite mature, leathery, slightly volatile nose; Creek, while others ofered the super-modern a bad thing, aesthetically at least, provided it there is a structure and mineral dryness that appealing in an old-Châteauneuf sort of way. The combination of pale color and a suggestion is part of a balanced whole and marries well recalls limestone-influenced red Burgundy in palate follows suit, although with brighter acidity of stems, harnessing the variety’s natural with the nature of the fruit. Zin can arguably a warm vintage. This is very moreish, dynamic than you might expect. It’s concentrated, thick, juiciness to complement the light extractive succeed at higher alcohol levels than any other wine that still gives flashes of exuberant plummy full, and savory, with a certain chewiness, meaty touch. There were, variously, echoes of variety (appassimento styles excepted), but Zin fruit on the finish. Intriguing. | 93 and satisfying. While I am surprised by this degree Grenache, Syrah, and Pinot Noir in some of I have often found low-alcohol styles rather AJ | Saturated dense black-red; one of the of development at only six years old, there feels these examples, yet most of them retained insubstantial and anonymous. Not so today. deepest-colored wines in the tasting. Dense, nothing rushed or disjointed here. It’s a super-full- an individual identity. A chameleon indeed. meaty, promising aromas, though this 2014 wine bodied wine that really works. | 93 probably needs longer to get into its aromatic AJ | Dark black-red; just opaque still. Sweet, stride. Very attractive already: red and black composty, earthy; a fine aromatic profile in which Sobon Estate Zinfandel Rocky TOP WINES fruits, forest resins, classy vanilla, and in poised, the red and black berry fruits are now in retreat, Top Amador County 2014 89 fresh style, without any dried-fruit notes. On while the forest whispers and ethereal vanillins are (14.5% ABV; SC) Dry Creek Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma Ravenswood Teldeschi Zinfandel Single Vineyard the palate, too, this is a genuinely impressive beginning to take over the relay. To be confirmed County 2014 93 Dry Creek Valley 2014 90 and commanding Zin, with freshness and true as I taste, but this smells as if it is just getting SB | Lean, intense, red-fruits nose; it’s reticent Easton Zinfandel Old Vine Fiddletown Rinaldi Broc Sonoma County Zinfandel 2014 90 concentration born of density of fruit rather than into its secondary stride. It’s not hugely rich or but full of charm, and given complexity with a light Vineyard 2011 93 Frog’s Leap Zinfandel Napa Valley 2015 89 a heavy hand on the acid tiller. There is some full-textured on the palate, and the acidity is in vanilla tone. Medium-bodied but concentrated, Easton Zinfandel Amador County 2014 93 Sebastiani Zinfandel Sonoma 2014 89 texture to help the wine cling to the tongue, and the driving seat, but there is still plenty of high- with a robust tannic backbone and firm acidity. Seghesio Cortina Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley its oak is absorbed by the fruit and lends the fruit a quality fruit here, and the wine has an energy that The has spice and pep and lift, and even if it lacks Limerick Lane Zinfandel Russian River Valley Sonoma County 2014 92 secondary wealth in turn. Exuberant (as Zin must commands. There are tannins, too. It’s the mid- some depth and weight, it has elegance and Sonoma County 2015 88 Hartford Old Vine Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard be) but classy, too, and a Zin to serve at table palate wealth that is slightly recessive compared persistence. There’s more sophistication here Turley Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Fredericks Vineyard Russian River Valley 2015 91 rather than swig on the sofa. | 92 to others, but this might be a function of site. Very than in most of these Zins, and the structure and 2014 88 good Zin in early maturity. Tarry notes behind the texture are most appealing. | 92 Sobon Estate Zinfandel Rocky Top Amador County Ridge Vineyards Geyserville Alexander Valley 2014 91 Ravenswood Teldeschi Zinfandel lively, athletic blackberry to finish. | 89 AH | A paler style, with the appealing brightness Sonoma County 2015 88 Single Vineyard Dry Creek Valley 91 and spice of whole-cluster fermentation. The Brazin Old Vine Zin Lodi 2014 91 Joseph Swan Vineyards Zinfandel Mancini Ranch 2014 (15.1 ABV) palate is both juicy and deft, with a sense of tactile Shenandoah Vineyards Amador County Zinfandel Russian River Valley Sonoma County 2012 88 grip rather than obvious tannin per se. Acid is 2015 91 SB | Very deep red. Dense but sweet damson neatly balanced, the finish is long—even with and black-cherry aromas, with a dash of oak. Hartford Old Vine Zinfandel a touch of raisin at the end, this is refreshing Rich and broad, this has flesh and weight, as Highwire Vineyard Russian River 91 and detailed. | 91 Hartford Old Vine Zinfandel the wine that is vinified from them. Sweet, fresh, well as admirable concentration. There are hefty Valley 2015 (15.7% ABV) AJ | Light and translucent against most of its Russian River Valley 2016 89 vibrant, and lip-smacking: huge fun. A little tar tannins, to be sure, but they are balanced by fine peers. Sweet, vapory scents like the plum-scented (15.5% ABV) to finish. Okay, it’s young, but there is admirable intensity of fruit, and the acidity gives a lingering SB | Opaque red. Dense and oaky on the nose, or vanilla-scented Dutch pipe tobaccos of my purity here. | 90 mintiness and flair. This has length and will go with vibrant plum and black-cherry fruit. Rich, youth; a touch of raisin here, too, but it’s all SB | There’s a burst of primary fruit on the nose, as the distance, though it can be approached with fleshy, and creamy, this is up front and intense, attractive in a mellow, kick-back, rocking-chair though fresh from the press. It’s juicy and plummy, Edmeades Mendocino County pleasure now. Long, chewy finish. | 92 stamping its presence on the palate. The kind of way. That’s the style note for the palate, dense and vibrant, with delightful exuberance. Zinfandel 2013 89 AH | There’s a thrilling tarry depth to the typical tannins are present but dominated by the spicy too; more of a drinker’s Zin than a wine geek’s Zin, The palate is plump, rounded, and spicy, with (15% ABV) blackberry fruit aromas of this wine. The palate black fruits. Tremendous energy here, with the but I would certainly enjoy a glass or two of this some pepper as well as fruit. Despite the softness has a thick, unfiltered feel, and there is an impetuousness of youth. But also delicious and sweet, open-pored, mellow red wine. | 85 of the attack, it has texture and grip. Gawky and SB | Brooding cherry nose, still surprisingly oxidative touch that actually quite suits this irresistible. Long. | 93 Easton Zinfandel Amador adolescent, it is lively and perky and should be reserved for 2013. The attack is rich and dense, 90 robust, traditional style. The acid is just a little AH | Deep, plush, juicy plum-jam nose, with some County 2014 (14.5% ABV) delicious in a year’s time. Good length. | 91 with imposing breadth of very ripe cherry fruit disjointed and blaring, unaware of the rise and tarry complexity. Very full-bodied but with supple AH | Youthful, inky-fruity nose, already with dusted with Indian spice. Assertive rather than fall of flavor in the mouth. But there is still already tannin just dusting the succulent jammy fruit, this SB | Dense nose, with some mocha tones, as some plum-jam Zinfandel identity. The palate is elegant, but very concentrated and tense, with a plenty to admire, and harmony may improve over is a classic Zinfandel structure, and full of appeal. well as ripe cherry and black fruits. The palate densely tannic at present; the impression is hence hint of oak. This is still youthful, with a good deal the next few years. | 90 It’s probably quite high in alcohol, but that certainly is rich and creamy, with good concentration, more the skin than the pulp of the fruit. It’s worth of structure. Old-school Zinfandel, but without AJ | Dark, dense black-red; another very deeply isn’t apparent with all the flavor that’s present. | 91 fine-grained tannins, and bracing acidity. It may waiting a couple of years for this to soften, since excesses such as very high alcohol. This has colored wine against its peers. Perfumed, lifted, AJ | Saturated dark black-red. Harmonious and not be profound, but the surface here is packed the finish is gentler than the mid-palate. | 87 character and length. | 92 floating red and black fruits and fine moist split softly fruity, with carefully crafted cherry and with action. In its own terms, very successful. AJ | Saturated deep black-red. Excitingly fresh, AH | Somewhat oxidative on the nose, with vanilla pods; this wine doesn’t reach any notes blackberry, and a big swirl of cream to give it Good length. | 92 vivacious, black-berry and black-cherry scents, notes of gravy and dried apple. The slightly bitter that its peers miss, but the familiar allusions corporeal allure: an excellent aromatic profile. AH | Bright, spicy, still youthful and unformed then a bright cascade of those two fruits on the palate confirms—there just isn’t enough fruit or sing out with assurance, style, and warmth of Concentrated, deep, exuberant, explosive berry on the nose. The palate is tingling with potential; palate. It’s almost the red equivalent of a Mosel freshness here to express the variety or go the timbre. On the palate, this is a wine of density fruits of magnificent purity and depth. There is a there is real concentration of classic varietal plum Riesling, in that one might actually be drinking distance. | 82 and authority. All the black-fruit and bulging berry tickle of tannin, but most of the balancing work is fruit, and plenty of tannic muscle too, yet no sense the pressed fruit juices themselves, rather than AJ | Deep black-red but translucent. Sweet,

212 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 60 | 2018 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 60 | 2018 | 213 tasting / savor/ California Zinfandel Stephen Brook SB | Alex Hunt MW AH | Andrew Jeford AJ SAV creamy, mellow scents: very sensual, beguiling, sour-sweet red and black fruits. It almost tastes for Zinfandel. Rich and super-ripe on the palate, ANDREW JEFFORD’S VERDICT tobacco-leaf fragrance, finally. An impressive and attractive. Some secondary tobacco-y as if it should be packed with vitamins. No tannic this has a slight sweetness that probably derives aromatic profile. Sweet and toothsome on the OR complexities here, too. Finely crafted and presence, by contrast, and a lively redcurrant- from alcohol rather than residual sugar. Flirting This was a hugely enjoyable tasting. mean something like complex red wines palate, but with some acid lift, too, and the faintest compelling aromas. On the palate, this is and-cassis acidity provides the wine’s balance. dangerously on the edge of overripeness, this has I don’t think there is really a better beginner’s of gastronomic aptitude, with layered, of textural presences. A little darker spice toward : C

a deliciously luxurious, amply ripened, and High impact, but I’m not sure I could drink much a redeeming intensity and acidity to keep it from red-wine variety/place combination than harmonious flavors and the ability to modulate the finish, and a touch of dark chocolate, too. A presumably low-yielding, probably old-vine Zin of it. | 88 being cloying, and there are some welcome red California Zinfandel—and I don’t mean and change for the better with age. I’m not A note of warm hay after the wine has gone. LIFORNI from a good site that has had the half-decade it fruits on the finish. Long. | 91 any disparagement by this. That exuberant, sure about this. The best of the older wines Impressive within the style parameters. | 88 needs to get away from that very simple (though AH | Quite closed, still very much Zin-like in its perfectly intelligible, and succulently did show an ability to change and modulate exciting) youth they all have and settle down into plummy fruit, though at the pruney end of the defined berry fruit combined with its innate with age, for the better; the seductive berry Frog’s Leap Zinfandel Napa

87 A a more relaxed and more complex middle age. spectrum. The palate is well balanced in itself, sweetness, often a juicy acid balance, fruit of youth settles down into something Valley 2015 (13.6% ABV) Z and very little detaining tannin is just more mushroomy, more tobaccoey, but Buy with assurance for ample classicism. | 93 with no one element sticking out, but it feels INF too thick, rather muscle-bound, and could get perfect for newcomers to wine, who often remains as inviting as ever it was: the wise SB | Lush, plummy nose, with impressive depth Brazin Old Vine Zin Lodi 2014 fatiguing after a glass. | 85 find “classic” reds both acidulous and smiling old grandpappy wine on the verandah of fruit. The attack is fresh and lively, and this has A 88 NDEL (14.5% ABV) AJ | Dark black-red, and just into opacity. Beef overgrippy. Those juicy, sweet-fruited rocking chair. But gastronomic aptitude? admirable clarity of fruit and brightness. Very ripe stock and black berry—perhaps just a little qualities were amply on display in this Here I think the inability of Zin to muster without being jammy, this is zesty and moreish, SB | Plump blackberry and raspberry-coulis reduction here, but not enough to vitiate what tasting. The big challenge is to define them much textural density, extractive weight, with a sleek texture and a balanced, perky finish. perfectly, suggesting the fruit itself, without or tannic interest holds it back somewhat— aromas on the nose. Rich and creamy, with a is an exciting and attractive aromatic profile. Not a profound wine for long cellaring, but it overfreighting them with oaky vanilla and, it should be said, its weight of sweetness seductive texture and good intensity of fruit. Earth, clay, and grunt. Deep, concentrated, and brings immediate pleasure. | 90 sweetness, and this was something that the (as palpable in age as in youth) likewise. The concentrated fruit is balanced by fine acidity, vivacious on the palate, and without perhaps quite AH | Pale to middling red in color, and a very top-scoring wines on my sheet did admirably That was why my scores topped out at 93. which lifts the palate and keeps it fresh. It’s the level of density the palate suggested; some appealing, open nose of plum jam, with some (but the less impressive wines failed to do). But… the best wines are hugely enjoyable, and alcoholic warmth and slight dried-fruit character slightly one-dimensional, and the sucrosity is nascent mushroomy complexities. There is juicy, After that comes the question: Are no one who wants to understand what the rather obtrusive, but overall it’s appealing and almost pippy, acidity (raspberry, strawberry— these fine wines? By which we must wine world has to ofer should neglect them. contributing to the enveloping efect. The palate is accessible. | 89 some red-fruit lift for the black-fruit sugars). tighter than expected, with quite firm, fine tannin AH | Dense yet very aromatic, flirting with a tiny It’s an “all-about-the-fruit” Zinfandel, attractive, lending a sort of mineral, stony quality to the bit of reduction, this wine has something of the vivacious, head-turning, and one to gulp and TOP WINES texture. Elegant, a little earnest compared to the northern Rhône about it, all smoky black fruit and swallow rather than sip and spit. | 88 nose, and in need of a year or so to relax. | 89 bacon fat. The acid is marked, yet congruent with Edmeades Mendocino County Zinfandel 2013 93 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs Dry Creek Valley AJ | Clear red-purple in color. Sweet and warm, the brisk, almost sappy flavors. As a Zinfandel, with just a touch of the forest to it (pine and Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs Dry Creek Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma Sonoma County 2015 89 it would be hard to identify. As a wine, there is Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County County 2014 92 St Francis Old Vines Zinfandel Sonoma County resins); some vanillins, too. Gently attractive complexity, energy, and balance, so a great deal Bottled January 2017 2015 aromas while relatively soft-focus. Smooth, vivid 88 Ravenswood Teldeschi Zinfandel Single Vineyard 2015 89 to enjoy. | 91 fruits with a slightly brighter acid balance than Shenandoah Vineyards (14.5% ABV) Dry Creek Valley 2014 92 Once & Future Teldeschi Vineyard Dry Creek Valley AJ | Deep red-black though translucent, not Amador County Zinfandel 2015 88 I was expecting, as if there was just a dash of Hartford Old Vine Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard Zinfandel Frank’s Block Sonoma County 2015 88 opaque. Quite an evolved aroma, with something (14.5% ABV) SB | Lively plum-and-sour-cherry nose, ripe but raspberry vinegar in here. No tannin at all and Russian River Valley 2015 90 Williams Selyem Papera Vineyard Zinfandel 2014 88 almost claretty about the bramble, the black zesty. Good attack, with a silky texture, good very little density; the palate rides on this fruit cherry, and the plum; tar and chocolate, too, SB | Lighter in color than the other 2015s, but concentration, and elegant tannins. A model of Hartford Old Vine Zinfandel Russian River Valley Turley Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Fredericks Vineyard and the bright acidity. Pleasant enough but not an 2016 90 2014 88 and an earthiness. Lots to enjoy, though not that’s of little significance with Zinfandel. Fresh restraint, yet it doesn’t lack flavor or even some ambitious wine. | 82 necessarily hugely classy, and the aromas don’t cherry-and-raspberry nose, with a hint of oak. intensity. The light but discernible structure does Easton Zinfandel Old Vine Fiddletown Rinaldi Peachy Canyon Zinfandel D Block Paso Robles Vineyard 2011 2015 suggest a Zin for long-term cellaring, either. Bright, lively attack, with a dusting of tannin give some staying power and a moderate aging 89 88 On the palate, this seems like a well-made behind the fruit, a limpid, refreshing style with potential. | 91 commercial wine, with ample fruited depths, good acidity and immediate accessibility. A pretty AH | This nose is pretty close to generic warm- some acid lift, and medium-length; no textural wine, balanced and quite long, though there’s no climate red wine, with only a hint of more specific the edgy, power-drive style, which seems to be the depths at all, however. But a very well-made, great depth of flavor here. | 90 plummy Zinfandel character. It’s light, short, and Limerick Lane Zinfandel Russian zeitgeist for the younger wines in the tasting. | 83 on-the-button Zin. | 85 AH | Paler than most here, with the leafy-spicy simple in the mouth. Technically correct, basic River Valley Sonoma County 2015 88 lift of whole-cluster vinification; together with wine. | 83 (14.8% ABV) Turley Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Once & Future Teldeschi Vineyard the fresh blackberry fruit, this lends the nose a AJ | Dark but clear red-purple. Very attractive, Fredericks Vineyard 2014 88 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel northern Rhône feel. The palate is much juicier— exuberant raspberry, vanilla, and sweet-spice SB | Sweet raspberry-and-blackberry nose, (15.8% ABV) Frank’s Block Sonoma County 88 closer to Grenache if we’re continuing the Rhône scents. On the palate, this is a juicy and exuberant showing both density and charm. Rich, ripe, and 2015 (15% ABV) analogy—with a real bramble/plum sweetness wine, too, and better balanced than many of its very concentrated, this has firm tannins behind SB | Sweet juicy brambly nose, with ripe raspberry to it. It’s certainly an original take on the variety, 2015 peers, with less insistent acidity and a bit the fruit and somewhat raucous acidity. There’s tones, too, showing zest and energy. The attack is SB | Muted nose of damsons and black cherries, showing the light touch and natural balance of more textural wealth. We almost get beyond a sauvage character I find appealing, and this has fresh but artificially aided by a sprinkling of CO2 brooding and reserved, with a hint of oak. California’s new wave. | 91 the fruit to a sense of meatiness here. There is more depth, pungency, and personality than most in the wine. Bright and minty, but the fruit Medium-bodied and very fresh, limpid, with AJ | Deep red-black but translucent. Solid, classic, ample sweetness of fruit, but it’s not cloying. The of the 2015s. The acidity drives the palate to a character is not conspicuous. It’s a pretty and decent concentration and good acidity. Perhaps sweet plum and blackberry fruit, though without palate fruits are more plum and blackberry rather slightly sweet but not jammy finish. Quite long, vivacious wine, showing some leg, but Zin should Seghesio Cortina Zinfandel Dry Creek and seductively textured. | 92 Valley Sonoma County 2014 it’s a touch simple and one-dimensional, but any particular lift or finesse. A little mushroomy than raspberry. A very good efort, and a fine be cloaked in succulent ripe fruit, and this isn’t. 87 it’s up front and enjoyable. Balanced and quite development, too, and some oak shaping; I would introduction to the variety. | 89 AH | Minty, tarry—roasted fruit but with a lift. The Quite long. | 87 (15% ABV) long on the finish. | 89 have guessed a slightly older wine than 2015. On palate shows very marked acid given the ripeness AH | The nose of this inky-purple wine seems a AH | A deep purple color and super-ripe sweet the palate, this is broad, soft, soupy, once again in of fruit; a softer structure would bring more little out of sorts, with a pronounced aldehyde SB | The nose is slightly herbaceous, which is dark fruit plus alcoholic warmth give a blackberry- that secondary style, and a relatively undemanding harmony at this stage. But there is concentration, (bruised apple skin) aroma masking some unusual for Zinfandel, but it can be a consequence gin impression on the nose. The palate is drink, though comfortable and easy as it slips vigor, and length, as well as sensitively extracted powerful brambly fruit. The palate, too, isn’t of uneven ripening. More red fruits than black. straightforward but nicely balanced, with some down. There’s nothing wrong with it, but we are tannin. One to come back to in a few years. | 88 joined up today; there is a disconnect between The attack is lean and sprightly, though there is a freshness and tannic support for the exuberant long way from the “fine wine” ideal here. | 83 AJ | Dark black-purple, and just into opaque. A the slightly rasping tannin, brisk acidity, and silkiness that’s appealing. But it lacks depth and blackberry fruit. | 87 mixture of red brambly fruits with some raisiny gentle rich black fruit. There are a lot of good complexity, and the finish is rather weak. Not AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Classic Zin scents Williams Selyem notes, some fig too. Touch of silage also. Very components here, so I want to believe that much future here, so best drunk soon. | 86 of exuberant, sweet berry fruit: lots of warm, Papera Vineyard Zinfandel 2014 88 edgy, primary fruits, with ample acid lift; on the cellaring will be rewarded with harmony. | 88 AH | Quite reserved, sophisticated, young bubbling blackberry, and that distinctive hot- (14.8% ABV) palate, indeed, there are fewer dried-fruit notes AJ | Dark black-red and very nearly opaque. nose, giving little away but its potential. There’s summer-day charm that the variety and the than the aromas suggested, and more crushed or Not a powerfully aromatic wine, but intricate succulent fruit in here and a tannic structure place can deliver. This is a dense, vivacious, SB | Very deep ruby, still bright and youthful. puréed fresh fruit. There is some texture—the kind in a way that few Zinfandels are, with lots of just assertive enough to contain the latent power. and concentrated wine on the palate, and the The nose displays sumptuous black-cherry fruit, of powdery tannins that can come from wood or fresh plummy depths, an autumnal jam-pot A sense of mineral elegance pervades, too. flavors are a kind of smoothie essence of crunchy decidedly in your face, but certainly acceptable adjustments. Another broadly successful Zin in sweetness, and some freshly dug earth, too. Some Impressive, multilayered, ageworthy wine. | 92

214 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 60 | 2018 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 60 | 2018 | 215 tasting / savor/ California Zinfandel Stephen Brook SB | Alex Hunt MW AH | Andrew Jeford AJ

and enticing. Strawberry, raspberry, cherry, and polished, but not much complexity or drive. and there’s a gloss of sweet oak, too. Rich and coming to the end of its span—or at least that it SAV pomegranate cluster and crowd the palate, which Moderate length. | 86 voluptuous, this combines swagger with silkiness. doesn’t have much in reserve. | 84

BRIGHT AND FRESH, RICH AND OR has smooth textures and a lively red-cherry AH | An intense, pretty nose in the spicy/red- Beautifully concentrated and spicy, this has

WITH MODERATE acidity; vanilla well away in the background. fruit style. As juicy as a new-wave Grenache, impeccable fruitiness and depth of flavor without Radio-Coteau Lemorel Sonoma VOLUPTUOUS, THIS : C

CONCENTRATION, A high-energy fruity red. | 88 with similar raspberry-peppery fruit, this Zin still any excesses. Polished and long. | 94 Coast Zinfandel Sonoma County 85 COMBINES SWAGGER A reveals its true identity on the long finish, which AH | Dusty, oxidative nose of dry biscuits. 2013 (15% ABV) LIFORNI AMPLE PERSISTENCE, is all plum jam. Not the densest or most complex The entry has sickly chocolate-digestive oak, WITH SILKINESS. THIS AND LIVELY BUT NOT wine of the tasting, this is all about charm, which and then rapidly fades to a cereal flatness. | 76 SB | Very deep and youthful ruby. Sweet, HAS IMPECCABLE it has in abundance. | 89 AJ | Dark, opaque black-red. (Bottle 2 for AJ intense, raspberry and cherry nose, with a light AGGRESSIVE ACIDITY. AJ | Dark, translucent black-red. Rather coarse, alone) Meaty, dense, promising: a big spill of FRUITINESS WITHOUT A

oakiness, too. The attack is very ripe but also very Z raisiny scents alas: old-school. (But for some, IT DOES LACK DEPTH black and red berries snowed in crushed root concentrated, with firm tannins and plenty of grip ANY EXCESSES INF I recognize, this may be a kind of down-home spice. Exciting, alluring aromas, though the oak and energy. This is a full-throttle Zin that doesn’t AND COMPLEXITY, YET classicism and reassuringly authentic.) Sweet, (sweet vanilla like snow on the cedar branches) hold back on the alcohol, which is a bit too overt A NDEL IT’S STYLISH AND plump, and generous, but artless on the palate. is much in evidence, too. Luscious, sweet, and for my taste, though other palates will find it well AH | This wine has a very luxurious, Napa Cab The acidity is low, and there is a little tannic or long on the palate: a red-berry and black-berry within the boundaries of what’s acceptable for the sort of nose, with creamy-vanilla oak and slick SUPPORTED BY FINE- extractive richness, so I’d certainly enjoy drinking sleigh ride. Climb on and enjoy. | 89 variety. The fruit soars on to a long finish, and this black-fruit aromas. The palate then shows more GRAINED TANNINS this; it’s also perhaps a wine that might be has flesh and grip and rude vigor. | 91 definition and a lighter touch than expected. recognized as kin by Puglians or Croatians. Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel Dry AH | A discreetly juicy, tarry nose that hints It’s all very neat, and a good drink, without the The secondary depths on the palate make for Creek Valley Somoma County 86 at more to come—then a surprisingly grainy, complexity or flair of the best in this tasting. AJ | Clear, translucent red-black. Earthy, slightly a better wine than the nose suggested. | 85 2014 (15% ABV) green-bean palate. I worry that the balance here Well within its comfort zone. | 86 grubby scents; some road tar on a hot day; is just too tough and astringent to blossom into a AJ | Translucent red-black, but still fresh-looking, something slightly plastic, too; not quite enticing, Grgich Hills Estate Zinfandel SB | Very deep red. Brooding plummy nose with harmonious, appealing Zinfandel. | 84 with lots of glad-eyed anthocyanins. Lively and though plenty of aromatic wealth. A soft- Estate Grown Napa Valley 2012 87 a sprinkling of Indian spice. Quite rich and svelte AJ | Dark black-red, just into opacity. Strange, fresh in scent, too, with some floral notes among textured, slightly rough-and-ready compilation (15.5% ABV) on the attack, with an attractive grainy texture almost herbaceous scents, well away from the the mulberries and the blackberries. Juicy, lively, of Zin keys: the broad-beamed brambly wealth and moderate tannins. Good concentration here, sweet-fruited, berryish norm—you’d say that this and fresh on the palate, though very simple in of flavor, the lack of palpable tannin, the modest SB | Raspberry-jam nose, though not excessively and ample vigor and verve. Lively and minty on was either high-altitude or a completely diferent both conception and execution, which is perhaps juicy acidity, and the fine vanilla mist. The sweet. Broad, fleshy attack, with opulent red the finish, but the ripe black and red fruits shine picking approach. Zinfandel meets Cabernet Franc. a failing when set against the “fine-wine” scale. aromatic failings (minor) are not evident on fruits, firm tannins, and good depth of flavor. through. | 90 On the palate, too, this is completely what you get. But an enjoyable drink. | 83 the palate so are largely excusable, but this still There’s an appealing sternness here that counters AH | The rather dulled color matches a low-energy I’m slightly at a loss as to how to score this, since doesn’t really get much beyond the “simple and the high ripeness, so the overall impression is nose, showing traces of oxidation already. There’s it is dense, deep, textured, concentrated, and well Robert Biale Zinfandel Aldo’s straightforward” category, though its acid balance not confected, though it does lack some acidity. more vigor on the palate, thanks to a combination made, yet either the site is too cool or the aesthetic Vineyard Oak Knoll District Napa 83 may pass for concentration at first glance; not Ridge Vineyards Geyserville Powerful, gutsy, and chewy on the finish, without of fresh acidity and fruit density, but the fruit is is too austere to provide a palate like mine with Valley 2015 (14.7% ABV) really sustained by fruit density under scrutiny, Alexander Valley Sonoma County being too jammy or fatiguing. | 91 fairly raisined in style. A near miss, I feel. | 85 much drinking pleasure. I would struggle to drink 87 however. | 83 Bottled 2015 (14.5% February 2017; AH | This nose is still very reduced, which masks AJ | Dark black-red with some opacity. Sweet, this, alas; others may disagree. | 80 SB | Subdued cherry nose. Fresh and sleek, this bottled February 2017) the fruit and varietal character somewhat. The warm, fresh, and exuberantly fruity scents, almost is medium-bodied and easygoing. Light tannins palate ofers really nice volume and freshness, intoxicating before you’ve even swallowed: rich Broc Sonoma County Zinfandel give some support to the fruit, which is ripe if not 84 SB | Muted cherry-and-vanilla nose but not very with quietly insistent tannin. But the reduction black plum, moist vanilla, licorice root, even a hint 2014 (12.8% ABV) especially concentrated. It does lack some drive expressive now. Bright and fresh, with moderate still skews the fruit, unfortunately, making the of cola... On the palate, it is really super-sweet, and persistence, though, and seems rather simple. concentration, ample persistence, and lively but wine hard to appreciate in full. | 84 surely with at least 5g/l residual sugars, and SB | Red fruits dominate the nose, which is lifted, Balanced and attractive but hardly memorable. | 87 not aggressive acidity. It does lack depth and AJ | Dark, black-red, but translucent. Gawky, low acidity, and warm with it. But it’s gentle and zesty, and shows considerable purity. The red fruits AH | Oddly evolved nose, like acacia honey. complexity, yet it’s stylish and supported by fine- slightly reductive and unlovely aromas that don’t toothsome, too, as friendly as a well-loved dog, are echoed on the palate, which is surprisingly The palate, despite a certain glycerol density, grained tannins. A quafng Zin, but of a high order. draw you into the glass. On the palate, too, this and would be good fun to drink. | 83 edgy and even herbaceous. This slight greenness is thin and reedy in flavor. Fruit is absent... | 79 Quite long. | 89 is a slightly clumsy and awkward wine, which no in unexpected in 2014 but unavoidably present AJ | Translucent black-red. Light cherry scents, AH | Quite brooding, focused, reserved on the longer has the charm of youth but has yet to find Joseph Swan Vineyards Zinfandel here. A shame, since the fruit quality is good—it but slightly tinned in character. There is some nose—Zinfandel masquerading as Cabernet. The mature resonance. Fair concentration nonetheless, Mancini Ranch Russian River just lacks full ripeness across the board. | 84 vanilla-sweet attraction, but the fruit quality is 86 palate is similarly rather tight and pinched, though and the depth to satisfy. | 85 Valley Sonoma County 2012 AH | Great depth of strawberry jam and defined less resonantly than for most of its peers. there is a sense of juicy plum fruit waiting to emerge. (13% ABV) herbaceous aromas abound in this paler-style Rather slender, light and evanescent for a young I do hope it will; Zin needs exuberance to show at wine. It has a delicious fruity entry on the palate, Zin on the palate. A pleasant bottle now, but Peachy Canyon Zinfandel D Block its best, and just now this is too introvert. | 88 SB | Relatively light in color as well as aroma, I wouldn’t wait. | 83 87 though does become a little animal-funky toward Paso Robles 2015 (14.5% ABV) AJ | Deep, dark black-red, though not opaque. which is red-fruited but shy. Still fresh but rather the end. It’s an unconventional Zinfandel in all Slightly muddled and stewy, with something a light and simple. There are some tannins in the sorts of ways, perhaps tending toward a more SB | Reticent nose, with ripe cherry and mulberry little disagreeable; a slight drainsy note in here, background but little depth of flavor or flesh. This Pinot-like expression. But there’s no doubting the fruit lurking in the background. Quite rich, sleek, which doesn’t particularly clear with aeration, seems to have lost energy, and I suspect it would drive and cohesion here. | 90 and concentrated, and with enough tannic grip though it is minor enough to overlook. Bright, have shown better a year ago. Moderate length AJ | Bright and translucent; lightly colored against and acidity to give some structure. Not a great acidically lively through sweet red fruits, though and a pallid finish. | 85 its peers. Sweet, strawberry-like scents, but a little deal of depth here, but it’s brisk and lively. Simple other wines define these fruits more cleanly and AH | Discreet, attractive nose showing a bit of attenuated. Very attenuated on the palate, with and up front—but also balanced and directly attractively. Nonetheless, underneath this is a undergrowthy evolution, as well as some juicy light, stretched flavors where the fruit texture enjoyable. | 88 wine of some density and strike, with some force berry fruit. The palate is still quite brisk and begins to break away, and there seems nothing AH | Closed and indistinct at first, this wine does and length; a purer style would certainly have structured, with fresh acidity and firm, fine tannin. much beneath. | 79 go on to reveal some fresh, green notes, possibly won a higher score. | 83 All very neat and balanced, with decent length, from some whole-cluster inclusion. The palate is but it feels contained, reserved; it’s not really Nalle Dry Creek Valley Sonoma disjointed at this stage, with sweet fruit and high Sebastiani Zinfandel Sonoma singing today. 84 87 | 88 County 2014 (13.6% ABV) alcohol fighting against a certain bitterness and 2014 (14% ABV) AJ | Light, translucent black-red. Earthy, complex, reserve. It’s all rather jarring and may take a while St Francis Old Vines Zinfandel secondary, and aromatically multilayered, with SB | Spry cherry and raspberry nose, discreet but to settle down. | 84 SB | Sweet, charming raspberry aromas on the Sonoma County 2015 86 notes of sweet cherry, cola, tobacco, hay, and zesty, with a light toastiness. Medium-bodied and AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Red berry fruits nose, which is brisk and lifted. Medium-bodied (15.4% ABV) silage; not quite sublime, but diverting. On the limpid, but it lacks some concentration and weight. of some subtlety and complexity (cherry and and a bit of a lightweight, with a slack structure. palate, all of the above—but also an incipient Ripe but simple, with a slightly green character pomegranate), with some oak softening and There are some light tannins, but not enough SB | There’s density and power on the nose, thinning and loss of flesh here, with a rising tide on the mid-palate. The finish is pinched, and this shaping; vanilla underpins the fruits. Attractive to give grip and force. Certainly attractive and which is packed with cherry and damson fruit, of acidity, which suggests to me that the wine is lacks flesh and persistence. | 83

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