Au Courant —Spring 2018
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250 Years Since the First Rosé Champagne
250 years since the first rosé champagne Ruinart, the first established Champagne House, founded in 1729, has been shipping rosé champagne since 1764. The House’s account book is the proof. On 14 March 1764, it is written that there was a shipment of «a basket of 120 bottles, 60 bottles of which were Oeil de Perdrix». What is the connection between birds of the Gallinaceae family and the early history of the oldest Champagne House? In fact, the term «Oeil de Perdrix» means a colour which could be described as a delicate pink with coppery reflections. There’s no longer any doubt. Ruinart shipped its first bottles of rosé champagne in 1764. 250 years : such a fabulous anniversary in so many ways, an historic date which links Ruinart forever to the history of champagne. The account books, various correspondence and the accounts of the heads of the House have allowed us to discover a multitude of varieties and oenological trials in search of taste, flavour and the ideal colour. What was in all probability a rosé from maceration at the beginning would then evolve to become a blended rosé. Ruinart explored various ways of obtaining a coloured champagne, for example by using the colouring of some elderberries. The palette of colours for these wines was very large. There were a number of terms to define them in French: roset, oeil de perdrix, rozet, paillé (straw), clairet (pale wine) and even cerise (cherry). Towards the end of the 18th century, the expression «Oeil de Perdrix» disappeared in favour of names closer to those we use: rozet and then rosé. -
Radio Guest List
iWineRadio℗ Wine-Centric Connection since 1999 Wine, Food, Travel, Business Talk Hosted and Produced by Lynn Krielow Chamberlain, oral historian iWineRadio is the first internet radio broadcast dedicated to wine iWineRadio—Guest Links Listen to iWineRadio on iTunes Internet Radio News/Talk FaceBook @iWineRadio on Twitter iWineRadio on TuneIn Contact Via Email View My Profile on LinkedIn Guest List Updated February 20, 2017 © 1999 - 2017 lynn krielow chamberlain Amy Reiley, Master of Gastronomy, Author, Fork Me, Spoon Me & Romancing the Stove, on the Aphrodisiac Food & Wine Pairing Class at Dutton-Goldfield Winery, Sebastopol. iWineRadio 1088 Nancy Light, Wine Institute, September is California Wine Month & 2015 Market Study. iWineRadio1087 David Bova, General Manager and Vice President, Millbrook Vineyards & Winery, Hudson River Region, New York. iWineRadio1086 Jeff Mangahas, Winemaker, Williams Selyem, Healdsburg. iWineRadio1085a John Terlato, “Exploring Burgundy” for Clever Root Summer 2016. iWineRadio1085b John Dyson, Proprietor: Williams Selyem Winery, Millbrook Vineyards and Winery, and Villa Pillo. iWineRadio1084 Ernst Loosen, Celebrated Riesling Producer from the Mosel Valley and Pfalz with Dr. Loosen Estate, Dr. L. Family of Rieslings, and Villa Wolf. iWineRadio1083 Goldeneye Winery's Inaugural Anderson Valley 2012 Brut Rose Sparkling Wine, Michael Fay, Winemaker. iWineRadio1082a Douglas Stewart Lichen Estate Grower-Produced Sparkling Wines, Anderson Valley. iWineRadio1082b Signal Ridge 2012 Anderson Valley Brut Sparkling Wine, Stephanie Rivin. iWineRadio1082c Schulze Vineyards & Winery, Buffalo, NY, Niagara Falls Wine Trail; Ann Schulze. iWineRadio1082d Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato Red Wine of Piemonte, Italy, reporting, Becky Sue Epstein. iWineRadio1082e Hugh Davies on Schramsberg Brut Anderson Valley 2010 and Schramsberg Reserve 2007. iWineRadio1082f Kristy Charles, Co-Founder, Foursight Wines, 4th generation Anderson Valley. -
The Beverage from France That Conquered the World
The beverage from France that conquered the world Without doubt, the history of champagne and sparkling wine is tied to France, and its origins to the northern French region of Champagne. England, however, was producing bottles strong enough to contain carbonated wines as early as the 17th century. In the interest of preserving trees, the use of wood in the process of making glass had been prohibited, and the glass resulting from the use of coal rendered dark, thick-walled bottles which naturally withstood greater internal pressure. Yet the starting point remains France, where the wine was most likely brought from and Champagne, from where it was later purposely ordered. Records remain of English-French wine trade. According to one plausible theory, the high sugar-contact wine was sealed and stored, after a noisy fermentation, in strong wooden barrels. When several years later the cork was removed, a sparkling, pleasantly-fragranced beverage was discovered. There is another legend, according to which the discovery of sparkling wine is connected with the late harvesting of the grapes. In the region near Johannesburg, a church belonging to, but located approximately 150 km from the archbishopric, had to wait for the bishop’s permission before harvesting. Riding on horseback, the messenger arrived three weeks late with the permission, but in the meantime, the grapes had over-ripened. Contrary to custom, the grapes were harvested anyway, producing a wonderful, bubbly wine-consumed as a magic elixir. It is likely that France has been storing and fermenting wine in barrels or bottles since the 16th century. -
The Liquor Industry 345
THE LIQUOR INDUSTRY 345 TABLE 38. WINE EXPORTS AS SHOWN BY THE REPORTS OF THE BUREAU OF FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC COMMERCE, FISCAL YEARS 1901 TO 1925, INCLUSIVE 346 STATISTICS OF THE LIQUOR INDUSTRY TABLE 39, WINE IMPORTS AS SHOWN BY THE REPORTS OF THE BUREAU OF FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC COMMERCE, FISCAL YEARS 1901 TO 1931, INCLUSIVE THE LIQUOR INDUSTRY 347 TABLE 40. APPARENT CONSUMPTION OF WINE IN THE UNITED STATES, FISCAL YEARS 1912 TO 1932, INCLUSIVE TABLE 41. INTERNATIONAL TRADE IN WINES 1930 (In thousands of gallons) * Estimated. f Less than 1,000 gallons. Source: International Yearbook of Agricultural Statistics. SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHIES * YEASTS AND FERMENTATION AHRENS. Das Gahrungs-Problem. In Sammlung Chemischer & Technischer Vortraege. Vol. II. Stuttgart, 1902. ALLEN, PAUL W. Industrial Fermentation. New York, 1926. BITTING, K. G. Yeasts and Their Properties. (Purdue Uni- versity Monograph Series, No. 5.) BUCHNER, E. H., and M. HAHN. Die Zymase Gahrung. Miinchen, 1903. EFFRONT. Biochemical Catalysts. New York, 1917. GREEN-WINDISCH. Die Enzyme. Berlin, 1901. GUILLIERMOND, A. The Yeasts. New York, 1920. HANSEN, E. CHR. Practical Studies in Fermentation. London, 1896. HARDEN, ARTHUR. Alcoholic Fermentation. London, 1923. HENRICI, A. T. Molds, Yeasts, and Actinomycetes. New York, 1930. JORGENSEN. Micro-Organisms of Fermentation. London, 1900. KLOECHER. Fermentation Organisms. London, New York, 1903. LAFAR. Technical Mycology. London, 1910. MAERCKER. Handbuch der Spiritusfabrikation. Berlin, 1908. MATTHEWS, CHAS. G. Manual of Alcoholic Fermentation. London, 1901. OPPENHEIMER. Dis Fermente. Leipzig, 1913-29. RIDEAL, SAMUEL. The Carbohydrates and Alcohol. London, 1920. *The student will find directions to further bibliographies on all of the topics included here, except whiskey, in: West and Berolzheimer. -
A Case of Champagne: a Study of Geographical Indications Tim Jay Bond University, Tim [email protected]
Bond University ePublications@bond Corporate Governance eJournal Faculty of Law 7-15-2013 A case of champagne: a study of geographical indications Tim Jay Bond University, [email protected] Madeline Taylor Follow this and additional works at: http://epublications.bond.edu.au/cgej Part of the Food and Drug Law Commons Recommended Citation Jay, Tim and Taylor, Madeline, "A case of champagne: a study of geographical indications" (2013). Corporate Governance eJournal. Paper 29. http://epublications.bond.edu.au/cgej/29 This Special Issue is brought to you by the Faculty of Law at ePublications@bond. It has been accepted for inclusion in Corporate Governance eJournal by an authorized administrator of ePublications@bond. For more information, please contact Bond University's Repository Coordinator. A case of champagne: a study of geographical indications Abstract SPECIAL ISSUE: FOOD LAW & GOVERNANCE The urgency of securing food supply has increased dramatically in a period when the GFC, environmental degradation, global warming and the rapid increase in industrialised food production has revealed the fragility of the world’s food production systems. In July 2012, Australia published its first Green Paper on food security. noting; ‘in the next 30 years the world will have to produce 70% more food to feed the world’s growing population’.[1] In the same month, the US Congress commenced a legislative debate about policy directions and public funding through taxation for farm subsidies to American primary producers. In May 2012, The aC nadian government introduced the first National Food Strategy, to manage failures of the social security system to provide adequate and nourishing food to around 800,000 Canadians. -
THE ATLAS COLLECTIONS VOLUME 1 Dear Guests
THE ATLAS COLLECTIONS VOLUME 1 Dear Guests, Welcome to ATLAS - a labour of love that honours my grandfather, CS Hwang, the late founder of Parkview Group, and the beautiful space he created in which ATLAS resides. It is our hope that your experience at ATLAS reflects the passion and attention that has gone into every aspect of its creation. A grand and beautiful space, we invite you to unwind, enjoy, celebrate and indulge as our talented and dedicated ATLAS team makes you feel most welcome and at home. The ATLAS Collections feature two of the world’s most remarkable physical collections of Gin and Champagne. Building the ATLAS Collections was a monumental task which took over two years to curate and assemble. We are also delighted to feature a selection of rare and exceptional still wines and whiskies from my own family’s private cellar, which for the first time since its inception almost 40 years ago, has been opened especially for our guests at ATLAS. Building upon the modest collection of wines started by my grandfather, the Parkview Family Cellar found a permanent home in 1989 with the opening of the Parkview Group’s flagship property, Hong Kong Parkview. Initially consisting of a small collection of 50 bottles of right bank Bordeaux wines, the collection grew steadily under the stewardship of my uncle, George Wong, and his son Alex. By 2000, the collection was at 3,000 bottles and has now expanded beyond the right bank to other regions in France and the rest of the world. Currently, the collection stands at 50,000 bottles of fine wine and over 10,000 bottles of whiskey acquired through reputable merchants, auctions, and numerous trips to the wineries and distilleries where suppliers have now become close friends, ensuring that the family always has access to the finest and rarest bottles. -
Wine List Intro.Docx
Supplement to Wine & Gastronomy Catalogues This book list, together with my Wine & Gastronomy Catalogues (1996-2002) represents, to the best of my reconstructive ability, the complete collection built over a roughly twenty-year period ending in 1982. The Wine & Gastronomy Catalogues had been drawn from books that suffered fire and water torture in 1979. The present list also includes books acquired before and after that event, while we were living in Italy, and before I reluctantly rejected the idea of rebuilding the collection. A few of these later acquisitions were offered for sale in the catalogues, but most of them remain in my possession. They are identified here with the note “[**++].” The following additional identifiers are used in this list: [**ici] – “incomplete cataloguing information” available – “short title” detail at best. All of these books were lost or discarded. [**sold] – books sold prior to the Wine & Gastronomy series, including from my Catalogue 1, issued March 1990. [**kept] – includes bibliographies, reference books, and books on coffee, tea and chocolate, and a few others which escaped inclusion in the catalogues. All items not otherwise identified were lost or discarded. The list includes a number of wine maps, but there were a few others for which there wasn’t enough information available to justify inclusion. To the list of wine bibliographies consulted for the Wine & Gastronomy catalogues, I would like to add the extensive German bibliography by Renate Schoene, first published in 1978 as Bibliographie zur Geschichte des Weines (Mannheim, 1976), followed by three supplements (1978, 1982, 1984), and the second edition (München, 1988). -
SOMMELIER RECOMMENDATION Our Team of Sommeliers Are More Than Happy to Share Their Most Recent Discoveries in the World of Wines
SOMMELIER RECOMMENDATION Our team of sommeliers are more than happy to share their most recent discoveries in the world of wines. COCKTAIL - GRAZIE A CAMILLO NEGRONI ! Barrel-aged Negroni Legend has it that in the year 1919 Count Camillo Negroni was in dire need of a twist to his favourite cocktail. 'The Americano'. His bartender Fosco Scarselli substituted the soda part with Gin and as they say…the rest is history. Fast forward and the year is 2020 and we as Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Sommeliers couldn't resist creating our very own Negroni by carefully aging it in our 5 litres Whisky barrel for a few weeks. See if we succeeded. Dinner NEGRONI £21,00 CHAMPAGNE - FATHER AND SON ! 2007 Thienot 'Cuvée Stanislas' Blanc de Blancs, Brut, Reims, France It takes real nerve to set up your own Champagne House, the very first Houses such as Veuve Clicquot, Bollinger & Moët & Chandon began their existence more than three centuries ago. In 1985 Alain Thienot showed not only courage but more than 20 years of experience as a wine broker. His in-depth knowledge of the vineyards and region with the help of his son Stanislas created this complex yet still refreshing Blanc de Blancs. Try with our Meat Fruit. Bottle (750ml) £ 165,00 WHITE - WHEN YOU HAVE PLAYED THE GAME SINCE 1385 ! 2018 San Giovanni della Sala, Orvieto, Castello della Sala, Umbria, Italy 26 generations of Antinori and yes, that may sound a touch 'old-fashioned' but very few wine families in the world have preserved their heritage so well whilst remaining so innovative at the same time. -
A Strange Story: When Crisis Leads to Wealth—The Institution of Champagne Wine As a Luxury Good
A Strange Story: When Crisis Leads to Wealth—The Institution of Champagne Wine as a Luxury Good Christian Barrère The very profitable Champagne industry now belongs to the luxury field; indeed, Champagne wine was the first example of a new mass luxury. However, the history of Champagne is special, because initially Champagne was not a good wine but only a standard one. It was one of the numerous white sparkling wines, and under the Champagne name, both the best and the worst could be found. By means of a unique historical process of creativity, the industry succeeded in transforming Champagne wine into a luxury good and in segmenting the old market into two strongly separated compartments, one for Champagne and one for all other sparkling wines. Moreover, this evolution resulted from a major crisis in the Champagne vineyards. On April 11, 1911, the red flag was flying over the vineyards and people were singing the “Internationale”; the vineyards were occupied by 40,000 soldiers. The crisis compelled the sector to evolve or perish. A small group of actors took the lead in the evolution process, creating a strategy based on high quality. This essay tells this success story and considers its conditions. The Champagne industry now belongs to the luxury field; indeed, Champagne wine was the first case of a new mass luxury. In the 1950s, 50 million bottles were sold, but today the number surpasses 322 million, of which 141 million bottles are exported. In addition, Champagne wine has a special position among white sparkling wines: the market for Champagne is a closed market, strongly separated from those for all the other sparkling wines. -
SOMMELIER RECOMMENDATION Our Team of Sommeliers Are More Than Happy to Share Their Most Recent Discoveries in the World of Wines
SOMMELIER RECOMMENDATION Our team of sommeliers are more than happy to share their most recent discoveries in the world of wines. BUBBLY: BLANC DE NOIRS OF THE HOUSE RATHFINNY, FIRST OF ITS KIND AND UNDISPUTED KING OF SUSSEX! Insp: Game of Thrones 2015 Rathfinny Blanc de Noir, Sussex, England Mark and Sarah Driver continue to impress the world of wine with their release of their first Blanc de Noirs. Perfumed, refined and superbly well balanced it is aromatic at first with orange zest and grapefruit aromas followed by a flinty and ripe red apple finish. Wonderful paring with our Meat Fruit. Glass (125ml) £ 20.00 Bottle (750ml) £ 119.00 WHITE - AS WONDERFUL & WELCOMING AS SOUTH AFRICA ITSELF ! 2017 Chenin Blanc - Verdelho, Momento, Western Cape, South Africa Boutique, artisanal and carefully crafted are amongst the first qualities coming to mind when thinking of Momento. The beauty of this wine not only lies in the delicacy of white peach, yellow apple & quince aromas, it’s also the textural element which is striking. A splendid partner for our Salamagundy. Glass (125ml) £ 17,50 Bottle (750ml) £ 95.00 WHITE - THE PERFECT COMBINATION ! 2014 Riesling 'Clos Liebenberg' Monopole, Valentin Zusslin, Alsace, France Tucked in the north east corner of France, Alsace's dry climate thanks to the Vosges mountain is perfectly suited to vine growing which allows it to produce wines of great precision and purity without losing charm nor excitement. Riesling thrives here to perfection in delivering the perfect combination of ripe orchid fruits with a wonderful dry savoury finish. Try with our Earl Grey Cured Salmon. -
Saint-Emilion Is the Oldest Wine Area of the Bordeaux Region. The
Saint-Emilion is the oldest wine area of the Bordeaux region. The UNESCO organization recognized the great terroir of Saint Emilion and put the site on the World Heritage List (see Dec 2, 1999 report). Saint Emilion wines are considered the most robust of the Bordeaux. They are generous, very colored, and reach their maturity quicker than other red Bordeaux. The classification in St-Emilion is complex. Do not confuse St.- Emilion-Grand-Cru and St.-Emilion-Grand-Cru-Classé fewer and much better. Here is the list of Saint-Emilion Great Growths. Saint Emilion wine information : Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé Appellation: Appellation Saint Emilion Grand Cru Controlée Appellation Saint Emilion Controlée Location: Dordogne valley Places: Saint Emilion and 8 villages around Limestone Soil: Clayey-limestone Gravels (in Cheval Blanc) Size: 5,500 ha (13,600 acres) 36 million bottles Production: Only red wine Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc Type of Full-body red wine wine: Best age for a Saint Saint-Emilion AOC: 3 to 8 years Saint-Emilion Grand Cru: 5 to 12 years Emilion Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé: 15 to 25 years and more Wine: Vintages: 2005, 2003, 2000, 1998, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1982 (recommended) Truffles Aromas: Toasted bread Cooked red fruits Mushrooms Bird game Saint Salmon Emilion and Sauerkraut Food: Spare ribs Roasted lamb Cantal Saint Comté Emilion and Ossau-Iraty Cheese: Reblochon Tomme de Savoie This recent appellation is rising. Côtes de Castillon gives an excellent price/quality ratio as new wine makers are settling down to make among the most interesting wines in the Bordeaux region today. -
Tasting the Stars
ETIQUETTE Tasting the stars After he invented champagne, Dom Perignon called out to his fellow monks with the now immortal words, “Come quickly, I am tasting the stars.” Suneeta Sodhi Kanga shares The Champagne Experience DRINK it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes, I drink it Champagnes are named for the houses that produce them. The houses, in when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle turn, produce various brands of Champagne called marques. The largest with it if I’m not hungry and drink it if I am; Otherwise I never touch and most famous of the houses are known as Grandes Marques. Some of it— unless I’m thirsty.” the more recognisable members that are available in India are Agrapart & I —Madame Bollinger Fils, Dom Perignon, Billecart-Salmon, Bollinger, Canard Duchene, Cattier, Drappier, G.H. Mumm, Jacquesson, Jacquinot & Fils, Joseph Perrier, Krug, History of Champagne Laherte Freres, Lanson, Laurent-Perrier, Lombard & Cie, Louis Roederer, Until the mid-1600s, Champagne as we know it had yet to be discovered. Moet Et Chandon, Philippe Gonet, Piper-Heidsieck, Pol Roger, Pommery, The region produced still wines which were very popular with European Ruinart, Taittinger and Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin. nobility. Dom Perignon, the Benedictine monk who is often called the inventor of Champagne, was upset with the bubbles and explosions of the The diversity of Champagne wine bottles, considered a fault in wine making. He spent a good deal of Cru, grape varieties, vintages, dosage … these elements may be combined time trying to prevent the bubbles and though he wasn’t successful, he in seemingly endless permutations that make for a truly astonishing range developed the basic principles used in Champagne making that continue of Champagne wines.