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Odesa & Southern Одеса і Південна Україна pop 4.7 million / area 86,300 sq km

Why Go? Odesa...... 146 This region feels New World much more than . The Around Odesa ...... 158 flat steppe between the estuaries of the Dnipro and the Danube was only properly colonised after Russian empress Southern Catherine the Great wrestled it from the Turks. Bessarabia ...... 159 It was indeed touted as the Russian California when im- Bilhorod- migrants from all over Europe poured in to cultivate virgin Dnistrovsky...... 160 lands and build the port of Odesa. Greek, Yiddish, Italian Shabo...... 160 and German were all spoken here along with Russian and Vylkovo ...... 161 Ukrainian. Although less multicultural today, Odesa is still perme- ated with porto franco spirit, displaying Jewish humour and French conviviality, along with crumbling mansion houses, Best Places to which line the streets named after settlers’ ethnicities. Eat & Drink To the west, colonists’ heritage lingers next to the bird- ¨¨Klarabara (p154) ing paradise of the Danube Delta. In the east, swathes of virgin steppe are preserved on Dzharylhach island and in ¨¨Tavernetta (p154) Askaniya Nova Reserve, which an eccentric German aristo- ¨¨Kompot (p154) crat populated with wildebeest and zebras. ¨¨Bernardazzi (p154) ¨¨Dacha (p155) When to Go Odesa °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm Best Places to 30/86 12/300 Stay 20/68 8/200 ¨¨Hotel Londonskaya (p153) 10/50 0/32 ¨¨Frederic Koklen (p153) 4/100 ¨¨Mozart Hotel (p153) -10/14 ¨¨Pelikan Tour (p162) -20/-4 0 J F M A M J J A S O N D ¨¨Babushka Grand Hostel (p152) May Smell bloom- Jul Gorge on Oct Arrive in ing lilacs and join delicious time for the bird the vanguard of and watch silent migration in Odesa’s beach- movies on the the impressive bum army. Potemkin Steps. Danube Delta. - - - - - k # ^ a a of Se Azov ya #\ #\ m ches y iles #\ siyivk k ny 0 k ya #\ sk e 5

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Southern Ukraine Odesa

Odesa & 146