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Home , Casa de Campo (Madrid), Spanish art

1 The Best of

Madrid is a rich amalgam of differing worlds. Narrow-laned old quarters and handsome plazas filled with regal statues are bordered by wide avenues and modern skyscrapers. World-class art galleries and museums vie for attention with secre- tive convents and tiny 17th-century churches. The Plaza Mayor, the city’s photogenic main plaza, was once the stage for the Inquisition’s horrific autos de fe; today it is filled with strolling families, tourists, lively cafes, and souvenir shops. Yet hedonism has always played a vital part in the city’s lifestyle, and in a spontaneous nonstop way that leaves you breathless. It is said that Madrid has more bars and cafes than Belgium or Holland. And the bars here not only open early but also close late (or never shut at all if you include the after-hours bars), and weekend dawn traffic jams of cars and night buses block the city thoroughfares as revelers weave their way to, from, or between their favorite spots. Madrileños also love to eat well—be it at a favorite neigh- borhood tasca or a fabled culinary mecca. Restaurants and chefs serving cuisine from recipes that haven’t changed for generations compete for the citizens’ affections with innovative newcomers experimenting with fusion and molecular gastronomy. The city’s shoppers have their pick from ultrachic stores and boutiques selling the latest in interna- tional fashion to street markets where an elusive antique is bargained for a song. You name it, Madrid has got it.

1 THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE MADRID EXPERIENCES

• Sitting in or Sombra at the Bull- sol (sunny side) or sombra (in the shade); fights: With origins as old as pagan you’ll pay more to get out of the sun. , the art of is the Observe how the feverish crowds appre- expression of Iberian temperament and ciate the ballet of the banderilleros, the passions. Detractors object to the sport thundering fury of the bull, the arro- as cruel, bloody, violent, hot, and sav- gance of the matador—all leading to age. Aficionados, however, understand “death in the afternoon.” Peak time for bullfighting as a microcosm of death, attending bullfights is during the capi- catharsis, and rebirth. These philosophi- tal’s fiestas in May, when 4 cal underpinningsCOPYRIGHTED may not be immedi- consecutive MATERIAL weeks of daily corridas fea- ately apparent, but if you strive to ture some of the biggest names in the understand the bullfight, it can be one bullfighting world. See p. 181. of the most evocative and memorable • Seeing the Masterpieces at the Prado: events in Spain. Head for the country’s It’s one of the world’s premier art muse- biggest plaza de toros (bullring), at ums, ranking with the Louvre. The (on the eastern border of Prado—which saw a bright innovative Madrid’s district, close to expansion in 2007—is home to over the M-30 highway). Tickets are either 4,000 masterpieces, many of them 4 acquired by kings through the ages. The • Lounging in an Outdoor Cafe: In wealth of Spanish art is staggering— sultry summertime, Madrileños come everything from ’s Naked Maja to alive on their terrazas. The drinking and the celebrated (The Maids good times can go on until dawn. In of Honor) by Velázquez (my favorite). glamorous hangouts or on lowly street Masterpiece after masterpiece unfolds corners, the cafe scene takes place before your eyes: You can imagine your mainly along an axis shaped by the fate in ’s Garden of Paseo de la , Paseo del Prado, Earthly Delights or recoil from the hor- and Paseo de . The Paseo del ror of Goya’s Disasters of War etchings. Pintor Rosales, on the western edge of When the Spanish artistic soul gets too Argüelles district, near the teleférico and dark, escape to the Italian salons and overlooking the Casa de Campo, also view canvases by , Fra bids an attractive tree-fringed collection Angelico, and Botticelli. Be warned, of open-air cafes; and down at the though, that a quick run-through won’t southern end of Lavapiés, the colorful suffice: It would take a lifetime to savor Calle Argumasa offers a fashionable the Prado’s wonders. See p. 174. spill of lively alfresco bars. Wander up • Feasting on in the Tascas: Tapas, and down the boulevards and select a those bite-size portions washed down spot that appeals to you. For traditional THE BEST OF MADRID OF BEST THE with wine, beer, or , are reason atmosphere in a historic setting, the 1 enough to go to Madrid! Spanish tapas touristy but fun terrazas at Plaza Mayor are so good their once-secret recipes win out. See chapter 6. have been broadcast around the world, • Shopping the Rastro: Madrid’s flea but they always taste better at home. A market represents a 500-year-old tradi- tapeo is akin to a London pub-crawl— tion. Savvy shoppers arrive before 7am you travel from one tapas bar to another. every Sunday to beat the rush and claim Each has a different specialty. Tapas the best merchandise. The teeming bars, called tascas, are a quintessential place doesn’t really get going until about Spanish experience, be it in Galicia, 9am, and then it’s shoulder-to-shoulder , , or Castile. Origi- stretching down Calle Ribera de nally, tapas were cured ham or chorizo Curtidores. Real or fake antiques, sec- (spicy sausage). Today they are likely to ondhand clothing, porno films, Franco- include everything—gambas (deep-fried era furniture, (endless copies shrimp); anchovies marinated in vine- of Velázquez), bullfight posters, old gar; stuffed peppers; a cool, spicy gazpa- books, religious relics, and plenty of cho; or hake salad. To go really native, just plain junk, including motorcycles try mollejas (lamb sweetbreads) or cria- from World War II, are for sale. These dillas (bull testicles). These dazzling streets also contain some of the finest spreads will hold you over until the permanent antiques shops in Madrid. fashionable 10pm dining hour. The But beware: Pickpockets are out in full best streets for your tasca crawl include force. More than a few mugging victims THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE MADRID EXPERIENCES MADRID UNFORGETTABLE MOST THE Ventura de la Vega, the area around have later found their purses here for Plaza de Santa Ana or Plaza de Santa resale—thoroughly emptied, of course. Bárbara, Cava Baja, or Calle de Cuchil- Note: The town hall has recently leros. Calle Hartzenbusch, in the Cham- expressed an interest in moving the berí district, also has some tempting Rastro to Mercamadrid, the city’s big- locales. See chapter 6. gest wholesale market located in an industrial estate on the outskirts of teleférico chair lift or by metro to Lago. 5 town. Their rationale is that there’ll be See p. 191. more space to move around, though to • Nursing a Drink at Museo Chicote get there, visitors will have to take the (& 91-532-67-37): The 1930s interior cercanías (suburban trains). Current at Madrid’s most famous bar looks the waves of protests from vendors and same as it did during the Spanish Civil regular visitors alike hope to thwart this War. Shells might have been flying uninspired and unpopular proposal. See along the Gran Vía, but the interna- p. 223. tional press corps covering the war • Sunday Strolling in the : Spread drank on—a tunnel is rumored to have across 140 cool hectares (350 acres) in connected it with the vintage Bar Cock

sweltering Madrid, Parque del Retiro on a parallel street, handy if they felt THE BEST OF MADRID was originally designed as the gardens like a change of scene and didn’t want of Buen Retiro palace, occupied by to risk stepping into the street. After the Philip IV in the 1630s. In 1767, Charles war, the crowd of regulars included III opened part of the gardens to the major writers, artists, and actors. By the general public. Only after the collapse late 1960s, it had degenerated into a of Isabella II’s monarchy in 1868 did pickup bar frequented by prostitutes. the park become available to all Madrile- Today it has regained the joie de vivre of ños. Statues dot the grounds (a tower- yore and is one of the smart, sophisti- ing 1902 monument to Alfonso XII cated spots to rendezvous in Madrid. 1 presides over the lake), which also con- See p. 244.

tain some 15,000 trees, a rose garden, • Experiencing the Madrid Night THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE MADRID EXPERIENCES and a few art galleries. The best time for Scene: The 1980s expression movida, a stroll is Sunday morning before lunch, roughly translated as the “shift” or the when vendors hawk their wares, magi- “movement,” referred to the world of cians perform their acts, fortunetellers arts and entertainment released from read their tarot cards, and large Disney- practically all restrictions and censor- style moving models of Tweety Bird and ship after the death of repressive dicta- Bugs Bunny delight the kids. In 2003, tor Franco. Then it covered all aspects after being drained and closed to the of local life, encompassing a wide range public for over a year, the park’s famed of social projects and progressive causes. lago (lake) was reopened with a pristine Today’s movida is simply a lively, non- new supply of water, a replenished fish political fun scene that doesn’t really get population, and smart new borders and going till after midnight, and even later jetty areas to accommodate the barcos at weekends. Madrileños hop from club (boats) beloved by Sunday rowers. Once to club as if they’re afraid they’ll miss again, you can rent a boat and laze away out on something if they stay in one the morning on its glittering waters. See place too long. To truly catch a whiff of p. 192. the Madrileño action, head for the • Picnicking in the Casa de Campo: On lively nightlife areas of Chueca, Huer- a hot summer’s day, enjoy an alfresco tas, and Malasaña, and the big clubs repast in the shade of a fragrant pine in around Calle Arenal. See chapter 10, the heart of Madrid’s largest park and “Madrid After Dark.” look back at the shimmering city sky- • Wandering round the Monasterio de line. Afterward go boating on the lake las Descalzas Reales: A haven of unex- or take the kids to the zoo or Parque pected peace in the bustling heart of de Atracciones. You can get here by Madrid, barely a stone’s throw from the 6 Gran Vía, this charming, medieval for- from Madrid): Philip II, who commis- mer palace was converted into a monas- sioned this monastery in the 1530s, tery in the 16th century by Philip II’s envisioned it as a monastic fortress sister Juana. Ornate frescoes, Flemish against the distractions of the secular tapestries, and paintings by the likes of world. More awesome than beautiful, it’s and Zurbarán fill its chapel-lined the world’s best example of the religious interior. Only 20 visitors are allowed in devotion of Renaissance Spain. This at a time, so be prepared to wait. See huge granite fortress, the burial place for p. 183. Spanish kings, houses a wealth of paint- • Exploring the Real Monasterio de San ings and tapestries—works by everyone Lorenzo de (49 km/30 miles from Titian to Velázquez. See p. 263.

2 THE BEST SPLURGE HOTELS

• Hesperia Madrid (& 91-210-88-00) setting is a classically styled hotel boast- doesn’t show up on the “Leading Hotels ing the highest standards of service and of the World” list for nothing, as you’ll facilities. See p. 105. see if you splash out on this Catalan- • In spite of an increasing number of wor- THE BEST OF MADRID OF BEST THE owned gem with its ultrasmart fittings, thy rivals, the grandiose Belle Époque & 1 sophisticated amenities, and pared down Hotel Ritz Madrid ( 800/225-5843 Far Eastern decor. Add to this the in the U.S. and Canada, or 91-701-67- Michelin-rated Santceloni dining room 67) remains a world apart, a legend in its (see “The Most Unforgettable Dining own lifetime. The granddaddy of all Experiences,” later) and you have as fine luxury hotels in the city—now approach- a combination of catering facilities as ing its hundredth anniversary—it’s seen you’ll find in Madrid. See p. 104. monarchs and dictators come and go • A recognized “in” place with top people, and democracy suffer its ups and downs. from movie stars to high ranking politi- Backed by gardens in the loveliest part of cians, the Park Hyatt Villa Magna the Paseo del Prado, its incomparable (& 800/223-1234 in the U.S. and setting and decor are matched by the Canada, or 91-587-12-34) enjoys a inimitable service and attention. See prestigious reputation almost unique p. 105. in the city. Behind its elegant garden

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS PRICED MODERATELY BEST THE 3 THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS

• Built in 1966 and still going strong, the • Ideally located in a popular tiny square reasonably priced Ayre Gran Hotel close the Plaza Mayor the 19th century Colón (& 91-573-59-00) is west of Hostal Persal (& 91-369-46-43) offers Retiro Park in a relatively safe area of particularly good value, family-size Madrid that’s easily connected to the rooms as well as fine on-the-spot meals. center by subway. It’s well maintained See 90. and kept up-to-date, offering well- • If the prospect of a peaceful setting designed bedrooms with comfortably within easy reach of the center tickles traditional furnishings. See p. 108. your fancy then the Residencia (& 91-564-03-70) is the place for you. Comfortable rooms, friendly atmo- enjoy home-cooked meals are all part of 7 sphere, and a leafy patio where you can the deal. See p. 113.

4 THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE DINING EXPERIENCES

• The Sobrino de Botín (& 91-366-30- • A stylish repository of fine Mediterra- 26 or 91-366-42-17) may be touristy nean cuisine located in the immaculate these days but the setting and atmo- Hotel Hesperia (p. 104), Santceloni sphere of the city’s oldest restaurant (it (& 91-210-88-40) is, for many, the THE BEST OF MADRID claims to be the oldest in the world) tops in town. Chef Santi Santamaría more than compensate. Rafters, beams, conjures up further-inspired Catalan and nooks abound, and the effective dishes such as fennel-based John Dory. service is accompanied by some first- See p. 152. rate Castilian specialties, such as lechona. • For those who do favor tradition-shatter- See p. 128. ing Catalan delights, then La Broche • Okay, so it’s money-is-no-object time. (& 91-399-34-37), the dining room of With supreme Basque cuisine at Zala- the Hotel Occidental Miguel Angel caín (& 91-561-48-40), you can let (p. 110) provides some of the most yourself go for once. Long rated as the imaginative offerings you’ll encounter in 1 best eating spot in Madrid, it’s still the city, with Chef Sergi Arola emulating holding out well against the Catalan the culinary style of his much-vaunted THE BEST THINGS TO DO FOR FREE tsunami of fashionable nouvelle cuisine. mentor Ferran Adrià. See p. 158. See p. 161.

5 THE BEST THINGS TO DO FOR FREE

• Enjoy the Weekend Cultural Treats: history for free (p. 177). Also perma- Saturday and Sunday are free at the nently free are the Bolsa (Stock Exchange; Nacional de Arte Reina Sofia p. 180), Museo de Historia (p. 182), (p. 171). The tiny Casa Museo de Museo Naval (p. 182), and the Conde Lope de Vega (p. 180) is free on Satur- Duque cultural center (p. 182). day only. Sunday-morning-only treats • Take an Ecclesiastical Trip Back in include the Museos de América (p. 186), Time: I’m particularly fond of Madrid’s Sorolla (p. 186), and Nacional de two oldest churches, hidden in the Artes Decorativas (p. 181). heart of the Austrias district. They’re • Don’t Forget the Weekday Freebies, both tiny, giving you an idea of what too: El Prado (p. 174) is free in the Madrid must have been like when it evenings all week long (though it’s had a population of just around 10,000. closed on Mon). Some of the more San Nicolás de los Servitas (full title individual private museums such as San Nicolás de Bari de los Servitas) was Lazaro Galdiano (p. 185) and Cer- named after an Italian saint, and its ralbo (p. 183) are free on Wednesdays 12th-century Arabic torre rises above a (also Sun for Cerralbo), while the narrow lane just behind the Calle Mayor Museo San Isidro in Plaza San Andrés (p. 180). Nearby San Pedro el Leal, gives you a daily rundown on the city’s also known as San Pedro el Viejo, has 8 Tips The Best Train Ride

An old narrow-gauge railway takes you up 1,500m (5,000 ft.) through giant pine- woods from Cercedilla to the hamlet of Cotos, which enjoys winter skiing and summer walks up to the 2,300m (7,500 ft.) Peñalara, the highest point of the Guadarramas. See p. 255.

the best-preserved 14th-century Mudé- River (where you can view the Ermita jar brick tower in the capital (p. 180). de San Antonio de la Florida’s Goyan No entry fee for either, of course, frescoes; p. 187). Most relaxing of all though you may care to leave some- and only open weekends is El Capricho thing in the collection box to help (p. 192), first laid out in the 19th cen- toward the preservation of these two tury and complete with the original gems. fountains, gazebos, and waterways. It’s • Stroll in the Parks: Madrid’s best cen- on the eastern edge of the city just a tral parques are particularly rewarding 5-minute walk from the El Capricho to explore, especially the Retiro (p. 192), metro station. THE BEST OF MADRID OF BEST THE with its rose garden, fountains, statues • See Madrid’s “Little Egypt”: On the 1 (including the Angel Caído, or Fallen ridge overlooking the Casa de Campo, Angel, depicting Lucifer), and central you can visit the Templo de Debod, a lake; Casa de Vacas; and the 19th-cen- unique slice of Egypt in Spain. It’s the tury Palacios de Cristal and Velázquez real McCoy: shipped stone by stone cultural showrooms. Below the from the banks of the Nile. See p. 183. Real, the Campo del Moro has a ver- • Be a Politician for a Day (or Morn- dant neatness more associated with ing, anyway): Visit the Congreso de Northern Europe, while on the edge of los Diputados on Saturday mornings, Argüelles the Parque del Oeste’s and imagine yourself changing the state marked nature trails wend their way of the Spanish nation. No need to down past an international selection of book. Just turn up at 10am (except dur- trees and plants to the Manzanares ing the summer recess). See p. 208.

THE BEST STUFF TO BRING HOME BRING TO STUFF BEST THE 6 THE BEST STUFF TO BRING HOME

• Leather: Leather has long been one of nearby towns such as Toledo and Tala- Spain’s highest valued products, and vera de la Reina, some of whose wares best buys range from stylish belts and have the style and finesse of fine art. handbags to handmade shoes and fine There’s also plenty of choice from areas jackets. Check out such top shops as farther afield such as , , Loewe in the Gran Vía and Farrutx in and Manises in province. Visit Calle Serrano (p. 226). Or rummage the Antigua Casa Talavera (p. 221) for through Sunday’s Rastro flea market some of the best. for a second-hand bargain (p. 223). • Porcelain: Most popular and widely • Ceramics: Though this is not a Madrid available ornaments in this field are made specialty, you’ll find a wide selection of by the Valencian company Lladró, simi- ceramic vases, dishes, and jugs, from lar in style to the Italian Capodimonte; and, though considered rather twee by genuine Spanish cape (or capa) and 9 some, they are extremely popular with surprise your friends as you arrive at the the majority of visitors. Check out theater in style! The place to find them Lasarte (p. 227) in the Gran Vía. is Capas Seseña (p. 221). • Capes: If your taste runs to the slightly eccentric, now’s your chance to buy a

7 THE BEST UNIQUE TABERNAS

• You can’t get more traditional than the array of dining alcoves, is the second- much copied 200-year-old original La oldest eating spot in Madrid (after THE BEST OF MADRID Taberna de Antonio Sánchez (& 91- Sobrino de Botín). Don’t be put off. It’s 539-78-26), a vintage example of Old barely half an hour by metro, and the Madrid, complete with zinc counter, unique dining experience makes it more carved wooden bar top, barrels, honest than worthwhile. See p. 169. wines, and a genial bartender. Formerly • Another genuine oldie, charismatic tav- patronized by painters and playwrights, ern Casa Alberto (& 91-429-93-56) this small cavelike locale has also had has been around since 1827. The dark long associations with the bullfight maroon exterior and tunnel-like inte- world. (The bull’s head on the wall rior, with its zinc bar top, bullfight 1 is not there just for decoration.) See pictures, and engravings on the walls,

p. 167. create the ideal ambience to enjoy a THE BEST BARS & CAFES • Perhaps because of its location up in the tasty tapa or three. The restaurant at the northern suburbs few people realize rear provides more substantial versions the former coaching inn Casa Pedro of the traditional seafood and Castilian (& 91-734-02-01), with its secluded meat dishes available. See p. 166.

8 THE BEST BARS & CAFES

• Best Cocktail Bar: Try the daiquiris at iron columns and checkered tabletops. Del Diego (& 91-523-31-06), and Get a window seat if you want to enjoy you’ll have to agree they’re the best in the ever-changing scene on the Paseo town. Cool decor, low-key atmosphere, outside. See p. 141. and smooth attentive service add to the • Best Place for Sherry: The cavernous charm of this discreet locale, tucked La Venencia (& 91-429-62-61) sells away in a quiet street just below the sherry and nothing else, from ultradry Gran Vía. See p. 243. manzanillas to hearty olorosos, in an • Best Literary Cafe: Once several dis- uncompromisingly preserved run-down tinguished old-world cafes served the and untampered look. This means flak- intellectuals, artists, and lesser mortals ing tobacco-brown walls with tattered who would gather to enjoy a leisurely sherry posters, old barrels, and a basic chat or stimulating tertulia (social gath- wooden bar top where the barman ering). Today, practically the sole survi- chalks up your tab as you go along. vor of these legendary watering holes is , manchego cheese, and moun- the 117-year-old Gran Café de Gijón tain ham are on the concise, no-non- (& 91-521-54-25), with its wrought- sense tapas list. Check out the sitting 10 Tips The Best Castle

The fairy tale castillo Manzanares el Real, set above a clear-water reservoir and backed by some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in central Spain, lies just 48km (30 miles) north of the capital beside a small, attractive town. Built in the 15th century by the powerful Mendoza family in a heady blend of Gothic and Mudéjar, its towers, ramparts and crenulated walls form everyone’s dream of what a castle in Spain should look like. See p. 258.

area with tables and chairs at the back, with your vino before offering a wealth too. See p. 243. of marine delights that ranges from sal- • Best Wine Bar: No less than 200 vinos monetes (red mullet) to pescaítos (small are on offer at Aloque (& 91-528-36- fried fish). See p. 148. 62), an understated modern bodega/ • Best “Celebrity” Bar: At La Bardem- taberna hidden away in a narrow lane in cilla (& 91-521-42-56), the “Bardem” medieval multiethnic Lavapiés. In addi- bit comes from the name of Spain’s tion to the inevitable Riojas and number-one movie family—the equiva- THE BEST OF MADRID OF BEST THE Penedes, you’ll find some exciting new lent of the Baldwins to the States and 1 wines from hitherto undervalued areas the Redgraves to the U.K. Actress such as Yecla and Toro. Sit at the bar or mother Pilar’s son Javier—Academy at tables in a small alcove. Good incen- Award winner for best supporting actor tive: a la carte raciones if you get peck- in No Country for Old Men in 2007—is ish. See p. 242. co-owner with his sister Mónica; tapas • Best Tapas: Cited as a favorite snack ’n’ and raciones are accordingly named wine locale by Oscar-winning cineaste after other movies he’s made: croquetas Pedro Almodóvar, the stylish little El “Jamón, Jamón” and tortilla “Perdita Bocaíto (& 91-532-12-19), set in the Durango,” for example. It’s a warm,

THE BEST MUSEUMS BEST THE heart of bohemian Chueca, will usually stylish bar with an ever-so-slightly pre- serve a free mini portion of cecina tentious ambience. See p. 148. (smoked beef) or something similar

9 THE BEST MUSEUMS

The spectacular Prado in Madrid is no Galleries with rare paintings, include mere museum, but a travel experience. everything from Flemish primitives to It’s worth a journey to Spain by itself works by Spanish masters of the golden (see “The Best of Madrid,” earlier in this age, including , Murillo, and chapter). Zurbarán. You will also encounter • Museo Lázaro Galdiano: This rare col- paintings from Goya’s “Black Period,” lection demonstrates the evolution of and from the English and Italian mas- enamel and ivory crafts from the Byzan- ters Constable and Tiepolo. See p. 185. tine era to 19th-century Limoges. Of • Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum: Madrid’s almost equal importance are displays of acquisition of this treasure trove of art superb medieval gold and silver work in the 1980s was one of the greatest along with Italian Renaissance jewelry. coups in European . Amassed 11 Tips The Best Views

Get a bird’s-eye view of the Royal Palace area from the teleférico (& 91-541-74- 50) that takes you from the edge of the city past the Ermita de la Florida, and across the Manzanares River into the heart of the Casa de Campo where kings used to hunt. See p. 195. A lift takes you up the 90m (300-ft.) Faro de Madrid (Lighthouse of Madrid; & 91-544-81-04), near Moncloa and the University City. You’re rewarded with panoramic vistas that take in both the city center and the northern landscape, stretching as far as the Guadarrama Mountains 90km (56 miles) away. See p. 194. THE BEST OF MADRID

by a central European collector begin- its highlights; and the upper floor con- ning around 1920, and formerly dis- tains a unique collection of Western played in Lugano, Switzerland, its 700 and Oriental armor and weapons. See canvasses, with works by artists ranging p. 183. from El Greco to Picasso, are arranged • Museo Sorolla: Visit the great Valen- in chronological order. The collection cian artist’s own house in the residential rivals the legendary holdings of the heart of the Spanish capital. Built in queen of England herself. See p. 175. 1910 and bequeathed as a museum by 1 • Museo Cerralbo: This 19th-century his wife after his death, its trademark mansion evokes the genuine aura of a works are luminous Levante coast beach THE BEST MUSEUMS sumptuous restored residence. Formerly scenes, with women in white dresses owned by the 17th marquis of Argüelles, backed by an azure Mediterranean sea. it houses one of the most personal col- You can also see his eccentrically fur- lections in Madrid. Works by Zurburán nished studio, complete with a Turkish and El Greco, especially the latter’s sofa on which he took his siesta. See Ecstasy of St. Francis of Assisi, are among p. 186.