MY DIARY - 4 Lt Gen SK Singh, PVSM, UYSM, LADAKH- A LAND OF AVSM (Retd) Former Vice Chief of the Army Staff, Army Commander NATIONAL GLORY, South Western Command and VALOUR & PILGRIMAGE Corps Commander, Ladakh.

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On the pious occasion of 21st Anniversary of Vijay Diwas on 25- 26 July 2020, let us pay homage to our brave Martyrs who have made supreme sacrifice in defending Ladakh, which has been a scene of all wars has fought since its independence, namely, Indo-Pak War of 1947-48, Indo-China War of 1962, Indo-Pak Wars of 1965 & 1971, OP MEGHDOOT in Siachen since 1984, of 1999, and the recent clashes at Galwan between Indian and Chinese forces on 15 June 2020. In all countries of the world, the old battlefields become the places of pilgrimage, where the people of the nation, especially the young generation 3

are motivated and baptized with the spirit of patriotism. Australia and New Zealand sponsor and encourage all their citizens, especially the young, to visit far off island of Gallipoli in Turkey, where the Australian and New Zealand Corps had fought in the First World War. There is a saying amongst the Australians and New Zealanders about this war, “This is where our nationhood was born”. Ladakh has all the battlefields of post independence era to which the present generation can connect and be proud of. I had enunciated this vision in 2009 while celebrating the 10th Anniversary of Kargil Diwas at Drass, and I am happy to note the development of Kargil into a popular tourist hub. We need to open other areas too for similar tourism, about which I am going to write here. In addition to natural beauty and treasure trove of adventure tourism, Ladakh must be made a ‘must visit’ destination for all Indians for the purposes of instilling national pride and patriotism in everyone.

Travelling from Srinagar we cross Sonamarg, Zozila Pass, and enter Drass Valley, known to be the coldest inhabited place in the world, due to its wind chill factor. This is where most of our famous battles like Tololing, , Batra Top and others were fought during 1999 Kargil War, and there is a beautiful memorial constructed by Army, where the main annual function is held. It is an important tourist destination for all travelling to Kargil and . The main attraction is that most of the peaks where the famous battles were fought are visible from here. For this reason, a large number of small and medium size hotels have come up in Kargil. The next tourist destination is Sector, which also witnessed intense action. The main tourist attraction here is Darchik, an Aryan Village, with residents having distinct features and culture. At Leh Army has built a ‘Hall of Fame’, in which all major military operations in Ladakh have been depicted, and is a must see for all tourists. Now, I intend giving a little background to other battlefields in Ladakh, which are also worth visiting. 4

Nubra Valley is located across Khardungla Pass over the Ladakh Ranges. Tourists were not permitted to go beyond Hunder, the meeting point of and Rivers, a scenic place where you could capture high altitude sand dunes, snow clad Karakoram Mountains, and riverine terrain, all in one frame- a dream for the photographers. However, on taking over the command of Fire and Fury Corps, I recommended permitting the tourists to go forward up to the village near the LC, which was permitted. The rationale behind my recommendation was that it was along this axis that the famed soldier, Rinchen (Later ) had fought epic offensive actions in 1947-48 and again in 1971 to advance approximately 50 kms and capture areas up to the present LC, including five Balti villages of Scardu district. A brief history is worth recalling.

Soon after independence, the raiders from Pakistan advanced into the Shyok valley and captured areas till Choice, where our present airfield is located. did not have any troops in the area. The senior most officer, Col HS Parab, CO 2/8 GR, who was flown in to Leh and tasked to protect it, moved across Khardungla to assess the situation. Seeing that the situation was very grave, and whole of Nubra valley was under threat of being lost to the irregulars, he also decided to raise an irregular force of local Ladakhis to counter the immediate threat. He asked for volunteers, and Rinchen, a young school student from Sumur village, who could understand and speak , volunteered to gather and lead this force. They were able to gather about 3000 irregulars from the sparce local population, and chased the raiders for 30 kms, before they were stopped by Pakistani regular troops at Bugdang. For his outstanding bravery, the young school boy Rinchen was decorated with the second highest gallantry award of Maha (MVC). His services were regularized by giving him a commissioned rank and the brave Ladakh is went on form the famous 5

Ladakh Scouts Regiment of Indian Army, who have distinguished themselves in all wars since then.

Major Rinchen was again tasked during the 1971 War to advance along the Shyok axis, ahead of Bugdang, where he had left in 1948. In quick and daring offensive, he captured five Balti villages, advancing about 20 kms, till the present LC. He was rightly conferred with his second MVC for this action. Before this, he was awarded a in 1962 War and Mention in Dispatches in 1965 War, thus making him one of the most decorated officers of the Indian Army.

Having won his military fame, he tried his luck into politics, failing miserably by losing his deposit during Parliamentary elections, and in the process also losing his job in the Army. A soldier to the bones, he approached the COAS, Gen Raina, with whom he had fought 1962 War in Sector, for being taken back into the Army. The COAS tried to tell him that there was no rule by which he could be reinstated after his discharge on his own request. But Col Rinchen had his own arguments saying that he had fought and won a MVC as a student, rules were made especially for him and his men by creating Ladakh Scouts, and keeping his contributions to the nation, rules should be made for him to rejoin Army. Thus, Col Rinchen became the first re-employed officer of the Indian Army, and appointed as Officer Commanding Leh Transit Camp. This is where I had the good fortune of interacting with the legend. Later, while in command of Sichen Brigade I went to his ancestral village, after he had passed away, and called on his wife as GOC of Leh Corps.

During 1999 Kargil War, Turtuk Sub Sector witnessed fierce fighting, which is now called Sub Sector Haneef (SSH), named after Lt Haneef, who laid down his life during the capture of the posts in this Sub Sector. We 6

constructed a memorial for him near Turtuk bridge, which was inaugurated by his mother in 2002, and would be a motivating place for our youth to visit. At the other end of Nubra valley, from where Nubra River originates is the snout of Siachen Glaciers. Mid way is a beautiful village of Panamik, famous for its hot springs, and very popular among the tourists. I personally feel that, during the period of peace, Siachen could be opened up for adventure tourism. It has peaks for all type of climbers and the glaciers are unique where young boys and girls could be given adventure training, which they would cherish for life time. While in command of the Corps, we organized a number of such adventure camps and expeditions, including by Women Officers of the Armed Forces. It is worth mentioning here that Pakistan organizes regular mountaineering expeditions to K2 Mountain (Second Highest Peak in the world after Mt Everest) opposite Siachen Glaciers.

Across the Changla Pass, if we turn right, we go to the famous , and it’s home bank is open to tourist. After covering a distance of about 40-50 kms along the home bank of Pangong Tso, we reach the 1962 fame, Sector, where we have the old landing ground and two famous memorials. The Kumaon Memorial in memory of the Rezangla Battle in which a company of 13 KUMAON under Major fought last man – last round defensive battle, for which he was awarded the highest award of (PVC). Just nearby is the Gorkha Memorial, in the memory of the troops of 1/8 GR, who fought at Sirijap and then at the Gorkha Hill. Major was awarded PVC in Sirijap action. This area needs to be opened for the tourists. If we continue ahead of Chushul, we reach Dungti, and then turn towards Leh via Nyoma.

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From Darbuk, if we move north along the newly constructed Darbuk- Shyok-DBO Road, half way we will be at Galwan-Shyok Junction. We need to build a beautiful memorial in honour of 20 gallant soldiers who sacrificed their lives on 15 June 2020, preferably at/near the place of action, and hold annual functions like Drass/Siachen/Chushul.

This is the area about which Pundit Nehru had said, “Not a blade of grass grows here”, and the famous reply of Sardar Patel, “Nothing grows on my head too”. Ladakh is indeed the “Head of India”, physically as well emotionally, where people are fiercely patriotic, and every inch of land is full of patriotic tales of valour and sacrifices. Tourism has greatly improved the economy of the region, but this land has great potential, which must be harnessed to its full. We need to open up the whole of Ladakh for tourism to further improve its economy and sense of patriotism and belonging amongst the youth of our nation. There have been some reservations in opening up on the grounds of security. However, in a democratic country like ours, our strength lies in support of our people, which will increase by enhancing their awareness.

JAI HIND

Disclaimer: Views expressed are of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of CENJOWS.