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NOVEMBER 2007 NO. 146 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Focus on the Southern

See story on page 22 NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado //Petite : Ad Sales & Distribution - Bob and Judi Goodchild Tel: (473) 443-5784, [email protected] Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Distribution - Wayne Barthelmy Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Cartoons ...... 37 Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 38 Dolly’s Deep Secrets...... 38 Book Reviews ...... 43 Cooking with Cruisers...... 46 Readers’ Forum ...... 48 Classified Ads...... 52 Advertisers’ Index ...... 52 What’s On My Mind ...... 53 Calendar...... 54 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 634-2055, Fax: (868) 634-2056 [email protected] : Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, [email protected] Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 [email protected] Martinique: Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 584-1292, [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution - Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 Fish Story From a fan of freshness...... 44 Yikes, Hikes! To a Trinidad waterfall ...... 31 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the ISSN 1605 - 1998 DEPARTMENTS www.caribbeancompass.com is published monthly by We support free speech! sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2007 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. NOVEMBER 2007 • NUMBER 146 NOVEMBER 2007 • Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Norman Faria Distribution - Cees de Jong Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Compass Agents by Island: : Tel (268) 774-6657 [email protected] : Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, [email protected] : Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Business Briefs...... 10 Regatta News ...... 14 Doyle’s Deck View...... 19 Destinations ...... 22 Meridian Passage ...... 23 All Ashore… ...... 28 Product Postings...... 33 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 36 Island Poets ...... 36 Cruising Crossword ...... 37 Caribbean Compass Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, , St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Healthy Cruising Tips and tales...... 18 Just Another Day… Cruising in Venezuela...... 26 Law in Limbo? API for yachts on hold ...... 6 Louie, Louie Mega-marina for Grenada...... 12 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Look at Sea Monthly The Caribbean’s , “At the meeting, we —Continued on next page Compass . Apparently, there was a serious accident AM is back in Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. The fuel and 8:00 PM Cayenne III & Updates Fantastic… full of information! Jacqueline Schneider Scheiling, Austria 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 www.caribbeancompass.com Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! Same price, same content — faster delivery! We are always looking forward to the We next issue. Eight Bells ANTHONY GUNN friends, many in the Eastern Norman Faria reports: It came as a shock to family and when Anthony Gunn died Caribbean boating community and marine businesses last month at age 44. He had cancer. his nickname, had a friendly From all accounts, the Vincentian-born “Zooms”, to use His commitment to business disposition, was well-liked and a fine example to others. company, Cariaccess, head- innovation led him to set up his own start-up telecom existing firm. He quartered in Barbados, to battle what he saw as a monopolistic later established a financial management business. one night involving some locals and some cruisers and an unlighted speeding one night involving some locals and some cruisers and and may not go outside. dinghy. Vessels may enter the canal, but only to go home, or the mall unless we take a This certainly crimps our fun — no dinners at MareMares around Plaza Mayor is taxi, and the roads are mobbed all day/night long. Traffic beyond belief! as many people hanging The marinas and boatyards here are full, but there aren’t was redecorated, and the around as in the past. The restaurant at Bahia Redonda to the Sunday dominoes food has improved under new management. In addition on Saturdays. game, people are playing Texas Hold’em poker and Parcheesi Segunda was not lit when The navigational light at the offshore island of Chimana the national park station we stopped there in mid-October, but people were in there all night, presumably available in case of trouble. January, there will be new Bolivares are now at Bs5,000/USD and fluctuating. Next Prices are to be quoted currency, BsFuerte, with the last three zeros dropped off. be careful to avoid mistakes until then in both: i.e. Bs50,000/BsF50. Cruisers need to when paying for things. Cover Photo: Chris Doyle Salt Whistle Bay, , Southern Grenadines Puerto La Cruz News Ellen Sanpere reports: were told of a welcome change to current procedures which will allow yachts that were told of a welcome change simply call Nevis authorities on the VHF and be have cleared in at St. Kitts to clearing out in St. Kitts and clearing in again in assigned a mooring — no more has been viewed as an Nevis as if they’re two separate countries. That requirement procedure by visiting extremely inconvenient and inexplicably unnecessary yachties, so this will be a welcome decision.” job, but the fuel pumps are dock near the Bahia Redonda marina has a new paint Puerto del Este. When we gone. Gasoline is available at the powerboat dock near need fuel, we will go to Cumaná. Mayor to Bahia Redonda in Three “canal police” stopped us as we went from Plaza imposed on dinghy traffic the dinghy the other night. They said a curfew has been in the canals between 6:00

Yacht Moorings Installed in Nevis Yacht Moorings happy to Ports Authority reports: I am of the Nevis Air and Sea Spencer Hanley Beach to 100 in total, from Oualie our yacht moorings are installed: inform you that Gallows Bay) will be “quarantine” buoys for yachts Gallows Bay. Five of these (in will 90 will take yachts up to 60 feet (or 50 tons); and five arriving to clear in to Nevis; tons). The moorings are designed to withstand winds take yachts up to 90 feet (80 We will designate a safe area where yachts over 90 up to 60 mph while occupied. feet can drop anchor. in three tiers along the stretch from the southern Most of the moorings are placed of the Double Deuce restaurant) north to Sunshine’s, end of Pinney’s Beach (in front is Resort. Legislation governing the use of the moorings just south of the Four Seasons yet been set. not completed; fees have not we have installed 50 swim buoys (300 feet from shore) In addition to the moorings, Beach to designate a safe swim zone. Jet skis and other along a section of Pinney’s in this area. watersports activities are prohibited agency, Nevis Air and Sea Port Authority, held an The sponsoring governmental 26th, at which David Moore, the installer, informational meeting on September mooring system to the public and noted that local peo- explained his MoorSeacure required periodic maintenance. ple will be trained to do the Hudson Hoen tells In addition, Nevis-based cruiser Info NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 e-mail: [email protected]/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Come inandseeusforallyour etuatopen Restaurant 2 courses 45$EC, 2 courses SAILS &CANVASSAILS Other facilities: BIMINI &DODGER Marie &Luke, Open Monday   VY   -VYTVYLPUMVYTH[PVUJVU[HJ[1VOU3V\PZH[ [VVWLUHZH[LSSP[LVMÄ ;OPZPZHNYLH[VWWVY[\UP[`MVYHULZ[HISPZOLKJVTWHU` Bar withfree including French chef to welcome 8 slipswith GRENADINES NEW FAMILY MARINA INGRENADA hisper Cove Marina W CUSTOM-MADE www.whispercovemarina.com BEQUIA ore 0E,children’s menu 60$EC, 3 courses ae,ie anr,bookexchange laundry, ice, water, e:(473)444 5296VHF69 Tel: you andyour crew! de cuisine: to Saturday from 10am’tillate from to Saturday electricity (220V/6A) evenings MondaytoSaturday from Wireless Internet access Internet Wireless a French couplewillbehappy Pick up and Drop off from town. from Pick off upandDrop frames atcompetitiveprices nteSuho Grenada In theSouthof SAILS &CANVAS JL[V[OLPYJ\YYLU[VWLYH[PVUZ 12º00.538 N-61º43.995W stainless steel REPRESENTATIVE needs WANTED MarineServiceCompanies -LH[\YLZPUJS\KL! YLZ[H\YHU[MHJPSP[PLZIHYZHUKM\SSZLY]PJLIVH[`HYK ;OLJVTWSL_JVUZPZ[ZVMH`HJO[THYPUHYL[HPSZWHJLZZOVWZ `HJO[ZJY\PZPUN[OL^LZ[LYU*HYPIILHU 7HZZHNLTHRPUNP[HUVW[PTHSZ[VWV]LYHUKKLZ[PUH[PVUMVY[OVZ ;OPZMHJPSP[`PZPUHZ[YH[LNPJSVJH[PVUH[[OLLKNLVM[OL>PU HZ[H[LVM[OLHY[THYPUHJVTWSL_SVJH[LKPU7VY[(U[VUPV1HTH .L[PUVU[OLNYV\UKÅ stalwarts duringprizegivingatBequiaEasterRegatta2007 Anthony Gunn,atcenter,withDominicaYachtClubteammatesandregatta but hewasconcernedaboutthefutureofallchildren.” continued successofsailtraining—especiallythatitreachedtheunderprivileged, ly appreciated.“Anthonywasalwayslookingaheadandoptimisticaboutthe thank you”),saidAnthony’shelptotheprogrammeinitsformativeyearswasgreat- The presidentofBODA,widelyknownas“Wipers”(“Thatnamewilldofornow, tive ideastotheClub”. was a“trulyCaribbeanman,friendlypersonandonewhobroughtsomeinnova- Former CommodoreoftheBarbadosYachtClub,CharlesBelle,notedthatGunn Gunn familyfor“rearingaperfectsonandsharinghimwiththeworld”. DYC CommodoreandPresidentoftheDominicaMarineAssociationthanked one sogiftedandyoungwithmuchtoliveforwasn’tusanymore.”The Compass dinghy sailingprogrammetherewithboatsdonatedfromBODA.Huberttold Dominica YachtClubin2006,andwasinstrumentalkick-startingtheOptimist In Dominica,AnthonyGunnwasco-founder,alongwithHubertWinston,ofthe sailed withtheDominicaYachtClubteamatthisyear’sBequiaEasterRegatta. regional regattas,crewingonpeople’sboatsorracinghisown was anofficerontheExecutiveCommittee.Heparticipatedinorotherwisesupported joined thestrugglingBarbadosCruisingClub(seerelatedarticleonpage17)wherehe Barbados, hegotinvolvedintheBarbadosOptimistDinghyAssociation(BODA).He In thefieldofsailing,“Zooms”wasmorethanactive.hisadoptedhomeland, frompreviouspage —Continued Z Z Z Z Z Z Z  /`KYH\SPJ;YHPSLYHUK;YHJ[VY ;VU;YH]LSSPM[ +\[`-YLL7VY[ 3V^3HIVY*VZ[Z 6MÄ 7HY[Z+LWHY[TLU[ 3HYNL5L^)H`Z JL>VYRZOVWZ that thoseinDominicawhoknewhimfounditdifficult“toacceptsome- VVYVM[OLL_JP[PUNUL^,YYVS-S`UU4HYPUH —Continued onnextpage —Continued Navigating thegoodlife Bacchanal Too. K^HYK L PJH He NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 , who organized the cruisers’ , who organized We had a cheering section — the We had a cheering — who stationed themselves at the finish — who stationed Perseverance Tranquility. Alleluia!, Arctic Tern, Cheetah II, Gladys, Gypsy Tern, Cheetah II, Gladys, Alleluia!, Arctic Arctic Tern and and we welcome new advertisers Club Náutico de San Juan, passionate about the cause. And it was absolutely exhilarating to see the cause. And it was passionate about Compass so . “Harriet Gardner Eisen (on . “Harriet Gardner Grace, Asseance, Scotiabank in Trinidad and Tobago, this is the largest all-female race in the in race all-female largest is the this Tobago, and in Trinidad Scotiabank were last. There this year over participants of 1,000 with an increase Caribbean, groups, and government of them), corporate teams (180 mother-and-daughter red- by the instantly recognizable Club, Canadian Women’s (like the social clubs shirts with wearing lone women on their faces), flags stenciled Canadian and-white of us Cure,” many “Cruisers for a and our running for Terry,” such as “I’m slogans legs than land legs. with better sea of the sailboat part,” said Heather Mackey question that I would take “There was no Asseance group) was and to be part of it.” all those women represented were The other boats Not, Receta, Wind, If Not Why men on clock) as we our time on the digital photos of each of us (and line, and snapped and all top 25 — though we all finished, None of us finished in the crossed the line. medals strung on pink ribbons and big smiles went back to our boats with on tired faces. still for the cause that afternoon, and donations are More than US$25,000 was raised can be made at any Scotiabank branch, to the welcome, Panchorie says. They account, #131247. Women Against Breast Cancer Don’t Ditch the Dressings! appealing to all vessels planning visits to Bequia to Friends of Bequia Hospital is kit to the island’s hospital. donate date-expired medical close to the harbour at Port Elizabeth. This is the Bequia has a facility of 12 beds assessment point. From here patients can be released island’s primary first-aid and facilities elsewhere or returned for further treatment to after treatment, referred to patient to Bequia. the vessel which brought the of Bequia result in there always being some basic items Difficulties with deliveries to urgently by the nursing staff. To ease the position, stock medical equipment needed for equipment such as scissors, sutures, bandages, hospital nursing staff are looking or kits or any other similar equipment which is close to dressings, complete medical can be recycled after sterilising and subsequently past its use-by date. Such items than simply thrown away. used perfectly safely rather for the landing and immediate Customs clearance Arrangements have been made that currently no form of in Port Elizabeth of any donated equipment. Please note pharmaceutical or medicinal drugs can be accepted. David Webber (784) 495- For further information and delivery arrangements call (784) 458-3496. 5607; Di Wheldon (784) 455-6529; or Mary or David Harvey Welcome Aboard! In this issue of page 14; LIAT, ‘The Puerto Rico, page 15; Falmouth Harbour Marina of Antigua, of Grenada, page 4. Good Caribbean ’, page 17; and Whisper Cove Marina to have you with us!

DON MOCKFORD ‘Dey do run, run!’ These visiting sailors joined the largest all-female race in the ‘Dey do run, run!’ These visiting fight cancer in Trinidad & Tobago Caribbean to raise funds to boats spending part or all of this year’s hurricane season in Trinidad — and on boats spending part or all of this year’s hurricane season in the ninth annual September 8th, we joined some 4,400 Trinidadian women in downtown Port of Spain. Scotiabank “Women Against Breast Cancer 5k Classic” the vast expanse of park- The race route went around the Queen’s Park Savannah, Carnival celebrations). land in the middle of the city (and the heart of the country’s lovely with Lush, green, and beautiful at any time of year, it was lump-in-the-throat running/jogging/walking to a river of women flowing around its perimeter, all of us ultrasounds for Trini women. raise money to provide free mammograms and breast Public & Corporate Affairs for According to Reena Panchorie, assistant manager of ‘Cruisers for a Cure’ Cross the Line in Trinidad ‘Cruisers for a reports:Ann Vanderhoof Cure” — nine women with We were the “Cruisers for a —Continued page from previous func- at We met occasionally other that well. know each writer, we didn’t For this and whether cruising boating, intentions about and good his involvement tions. Of kindly his death, he before doubt. Only weeks be no there can however racing, Barbados. approaching for a hurricane a tracking website sent me NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 hotels butaheadofcruiseships. most economicallyimportantformoftourismintheEasternCaribbean,behind tourist destinationintheworld.”Yachttourismisrecognizedasbeingsecond al tourismministersandmarketerstoaimmaketheCaribbean“thepremier of theCaribbeanTourismOrganization,AllenChastanet,saidthathewantsregion- Tobago andGuyana. Dominica, Barbados,St.Lucia,Vincent&theGrenadines,Grenada,Trinidad requiring APIScomplianceareJamaica,Antigua&Barbuda,St.KittsNevis, ing withinCARICOMspace.memberstatesthathavepassedlegislation advance timesdependingonwhetheryouarearrivingin,departingfrom,ortravel- to astricttimetablerelatedtimesofdepartureand/orarrival,withdifferent pliance withAPISinFebruaryofthisyear.Submissionsaretobemadeaccording mercial andprivateaircraftlargeshipswhencrossingnationalborders. arrival inaportofentry.Itiscurrentlyusedmanypartstheworldbycom- submit theformon-line,asane-mailattachmentorbyfaxseveralhoursbefore aircraft’s datesandtimes—inhoursminutesofdeparturearrival),then such aspassengers’names,nationalitiesandpassportnumbers,thevesselor riers” toregisteronawebsite,filloutdetailedform(whichasksforinformation Information System(APIS)whentravelingbetweenislandstates. passed legislationwhichwouldrequireyachtstocomplywiththeAdvancePassenger eran yachtsmanDonStreetuponlearningthattenEasternCaribbeancountrieshad (IMPACS) Caribbean into action. countries wouldcause toregionalyachttourismrecently launched stakeholders son nears,alarmover thedamagethatactiveenforcement byanyorallten done so,andbriefly atthat. only two—Antigua &BarbudaandSt.VincenttheGrenadines —haveever tries shouldhavebeenapplyingthislegislation toyachtssinceFebruary2007, for IMPACS,anditsmainpointofcontact, hasalwaysinsistedthatalltencoun- Regional CommunicationsCentre(JRCC), whichistheimplementingarmofAPIS its ownnationallegislationrequiring APIScompliance.AlthoughtheJoint conclusion ofnegotiationsfortheOperational Protocol.” system owned,operatedandcontrolled by CARICOMwasestablished,pendingthe matches thatwereheldinvariousCaribbean islandsearlierthisyear,“…aparallel brochure saysthatduetotimeconstraints relatedtotheCricketWorldCup2007 to ensureuniformitywiththeprovisions ofanyUS/EUagreement.TheIMPACS new APIagreement,soCARICOM’snegotiationswiththeUSwereputonhold as States, mighthaveontheiroperations.” national legislationandtheeffectAPIS,configuredasproposedbyUnited United KingdomandEuropewereparticularlyconcernedovercompliancewiththeir straightforward asitappearedonthesurface…AirlinesoperatingoutofCanada, the Protocol, itbecameevidentthatimplementationoftheAPISwouldnotbe as the OperationalProtocol. Enforcement. Detailsofthetypeandlevelcooperationweretobearticulated in the CARICOMCouncilofMinistersresponsibleforNationalSecurityandLaw TheMOIwasconcluded inOctober2006attheThirdMeetingof the UnitedStates. Memorandum ofIntentbetweenCARICOMmemberstatesandtheGovernment of ation oftheAPISbyengaginginnegotiationsforOperationalProtocolto the Government oftheUnitedStatesAmericaregardingestablishmentandoper- area. Inthisrespect,IMPACSpursuedtheofferoftechnicalassistancefrom the Will thisredefinethepopularcruisingareas? Countries thathavepassedlegislationrequiringcompliancewithAPISarecircled. According toaninformationalpublicationtitled Background Street’s direwarningcameduringthesamelate-OctoberweekinwhichChairman The CaribbeanEconomicCommunity,CARICOM,beganofficiallyrequiringcom- The system,initsstrictestversion,requiresthemastersof“ALLairandseacar- “It willputcharteringandcruisingintheCaribbeanback20years,”declaredvet- The SwordofDamocles: But alaw“sleeping” onthebookscanbeenforcedatanytime. Asthehighsea- At thebeginningof2007,tenCARICOM countriesconcernedeachpassed At thattimetheUSandEuropeanUnionwereengagedindiscussionsfor a IMPACS wrote:“Duringtheplanningstageandincourseofnegotiating , published byCARICOM’sImplementationAgencyforCrimeandSecurity IMPACS wasmaderesponsiblefortheimplementationofAPISinthis Still HangingOverYachts Passenger-Info Rule

One Team,Space, CARICOM/IMPACS countries, weretheimplications fortheiryachttourismsectors fullyconsidered? legislation wasdebated inParliamentordiscussedatCabinet levelintheindividual impact ofAPISonthe regionalyachttourismindustry?When therelevantnational Security whosigned lastyear’sMemorandumofIntentbriefed aboutthepotential mation intheexistingelectronicformat and inthetimeparametersgiven. simply unworkablefortheoverwhelming majorityofyachtskipperstosubmitinfor- by yachts,theprocessascurrentlyrequired mustalsobechangedradically.Itis entry proceduresacceptedbythefirstCARICOM countryintowhichayachtenters? space? Moreover,couldweworktowards everyCARICOMcountryacknowledgingthe tourists notcomplywithAPISonlywhen enteringandleavingCARICOMasasingle weeks ormonths,notdays. waters itislikelytoremaincruisinginthoselargegeographicalareasforperiods of Information, notablyAustraliaandFiji,butonceayachtentersAustralianorFijian Some othersailingdestinationshaverecentlybeguntorequireAdvancePassenger ity ofislandsanysize,andoftenjustafewmilesapart,areindependentnations. crossed? TheEasternCaribbeanisauniquecruisingdestinationinthatthemajor- region’s yachttourismsurviveanotherroundofform-fillingeverytimeaborder is ing tomakechangestheformmoreuser-friendlyandimprovewebsite. the websiteandform,JRCCComplianceOfficerWayneBecklessaidthatiswill- response tocomplaintsraisedattheCMAmeetingaboutdifficultiesencounteredwith I lefttheUSAfromNPTin2002en-routetoNewZealandAKLarriving2009.” tion. AfternearlyfourhoursImanagedtobuildandsaveonerecordasatest.Itsays issue, Iwentonlinetoseeifcanfigureouthowsubmittherequiredinforma- maximum setofAPIdatathatcouldberequiredbybordercontrolauthorities. “WCO/ICAO/IATA GuidelinesonAdvancePassengerInformation”,andthisis the reasonable anti-crime/terrorismrequirementsoftheJRCC. the needsofyachtingcommunity/industryand,atsametime,satisfy the Based ontheinformationgathered,informedchoicescanthenbemadetoaddress ized, in-depthanalysisofthemannerinwhichyachtingindustryoperates. APIS initspresentformshouldbesuspendedforyachtspendingaproperlyorgan- Caribbean, fedupwiththeover-ridingandmassivebureaucracy.” will suffer,itbethesubsequentseasonswhenyachtsstopcomingto Barbuda’s relevantAct].Ifnothingisdoneitwon’tbethe2007/2008seasonwhich cers mustbeinstructedtoapplythe100-tonlimit[asspecifiedinAntigua& changed beforetheseasonstartsinNovemberor,atveryleast,Immigrationoffi- emphasize this,cannotbeallowedtocontinueinitspresentform.APISmust we putasmanyobstaclesintheirwaypossible…APIScannot,andImust their passengers. do itforthosearrivingbyair,andthecruiseshipcompaniestakecareof out ashavingtosubmittheirownAdvancePassengerInformation;theairlines ten, visitingyachtspeoplearetheonlytypeoftouristsinCaribbeansingled in tenminutes;hewasgivenathree-dayvisaandcheckedoutatthesametime.” an hourandthreequarterstocheckbackin.Bycontrast,hecheckedintoSt.Barts for theweekend.IttookhimtwoandaquarterhourstocheckoutofAntigua pared withonethatdoesn’t:“AnAntiguanfriendofminedecidedtosailSt.Barts compared thedifficultyforyachtsclearingintoacountryrequiringAPISascom- Immigration officialshadbeenfacedwithwhileattemptingtocomplyAPIS.He Its intentistofindany‘individualsofconcern’,notjustterrorists.” lation,” hesaid.“Pleaseviewthisinawidercontext:itispartofsecuritypackage. lists oflostandstolentraveldocuments,etcetera.“APISmustnotbeviewediniso- Interpol’s databaseonterrorists,criminals,missingchildren,humansmugglers, to providelistsof“individualsconcern”,andthattheJRCChasaccess The Caribbean’smaritimebordersareourAchilles’heels.” work imposedontourism;itmustbeviewedasanintegralpartofregionalsecurity. another coginthewheelofbureaucracy,”hesaid.“APISisnotjustadditionalpaper- its purposewasanti-crimeingeneral,notjustanti-terrorism.“Thisis ders.” Henoted“someofthemisconceptionssurroundingAPIS”,emphasizingthat enforcement operationstherebyenhancingthestrengthandsecurityofourbor- provide effectivefunctionalsupporttoregionalbordersecuritysystemsandlaw APIS, butapologizedforobviouslynothavingdoneenough. responded thattheJRCChadattemptedtoinformyachtingcommunityabout from yachtsmenandmarinas.”CommanderLouisBaptiste,DirectoroftheJRCC, regard toyachts:“ThefirstIheardaboutitwaswhenstartedgettingcomplaints that therehadbeennopriorconsultationorintroductoryprocessinvolvingAPISin John Duffy,PresidentoftheAntigua&BarbudaMarineAssociation,whoasserted ered” whenmeasuressuchasAPISareconceptualized.Thiswasunderscoredby case whenhenotedthat“thepeculiaritiesofourindustrymaynot[be]fullyconsid- Tobago, andotherstakeholders. Caribbean nations,otherCMAmembers,personnelfromImmigrationinTrinidad& from theJRCC,representativesofmarinetradesassociationsanumber throughout theCaribbean.Inattendancewereatop-levelthree-persondelegation bringing togetherrepresentativesofnationalrecreationalmarinetradesassociations discussions heldbetweentheCMAandJRCC.Theisanumbrellabody in Trinidad,organizedbytheCaribbeanMarineAssociation(CMA)responseto How didthissituation comeabout?WeretheCARICOM Ministers ofNational Who Knew? In additiontothenecessityofform being streamlined,ifitisevertobeused As CARICOMisworkingtowardaSingle MarketandEconomy,couldyachting But eveniftheformandwebsitearemademoreuser-friendly,canthissub- One oftheJRCC’sstatedgoalsis“toimplementscalabletechnicalsolutions.”In A cruiserwrites: It isourunderstandingthattheAPIdatacurrentlyaskedforwereculledfrom Would EasierbeBetter? CMA DirectorDonaldStollmeyertoldthemeetingthatrecommends Duffy concluded:“Ourwealthiesttouriststendtobethosewhocomeonyachtsyet As notedbystakeholderJanePeake,undertheregulationsascurrentlywrit- John Duffythenoutlinedsomeofthereal-lifechallengesthatyachtsmenand Commander BaptistesaidthattheJRCChasaskedallCARICOMmemberstates Commander BaptistetoldtheyachtingstakeholdersthatJRCC’smissionis“to In hiswelcomingaddress,CMAPresidentKeatsComptonpossiblyunderstatedthe A meetingwasheldonOctober8thintheconferenceroomofPowerBoatsmarina CMA MeetswithJRCC “ After readingthe Compass article aboutAPISintheOctober —Continued onnextpage —Continued NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 goes to press, many Caribbean yachting stakeholders many Caribbean yachting goes to press, LET’S TALK Compass When it comes to yachting in the Eastern Caribbean, we’re all in the same boat. Feedback can be sent to the following. • General comments and suggestions: CMA, info@caribbeanmarineassocia- • Suggestions on improving the website (www.caricomeapis.org) and APIS form: • Comments on how your experience of that country would be affected by APIS: MINISTRIES OF TOURISM Antigua & Barbuda - [email protected] St. Kitts & Nevis - [email protected] Dominica - [email protected] St. Lucia - [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines - [email protected] Grenada - [email protected] Trinidad & Tobago - [email protected] NATIONAL MARINE TRADES ASSOCIATIONS Antigua & Barbuda – [email protected] Dominica – [email protected] St. Lucia – [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines – [email protected] Grenada – [email protected] Trinidad & Tobago – [email protected] As this issue of As this issue The Way Forward Chris Doyle writes: “I fear the threat of this thing Caribbean cruising guide author Many Islands, One Sea at the Trinidad meeting tells us, “The host The IMPACS literature distributed the CARICOM space during CWC 2007 included no This free movement within visited all Immigration The Chair of the Ad Hoc Sub-Committee for CWC 2007 events, which entailed con- If this all was done for a one-time series of sporting not only unites national Under the motto “Many Islands, One Sea”, the CMA were made: At the October 8th meeting, the following statements have a balance between JRCC Director, Commander Baptiste said, “We must that the JRCC can get what Stakeholder Kevin Kenny said, “We have to find a way together?” CMA President Keats Compton asked, “How can we work to be discussed at the next It has been suggested that the CMA prepare a proposal try to make bureaucrats John Duffy says, “Hopefully, we can move forward and For updates on the APIS situation visit http://safetyandsecuritynet.com/NEWS.html CARICOM and non-CARICOM countries, government officials and private-sector stakeholders, cruisers and charterers — the laws requiring yachts to submit APIS forms, as currently enacted, can affect us all. tion.com JRCC, [email protected] (Denise Myers, Compliance Manager) or w.beck- [email protected] (Wayne Beckles, Compliance Officer) ifies that it does not apply to vessels under 100 net tons, leaving out most cruising out leaving tons, 100 net under to vessels not apply does that it ifies point is cut-off that a 100-net-ton points out But John Duffy and bareboats. yachts and 125 foot in length of roughly sailing yachts apply to low. “That would still too 800 super-yachts says. “With nearly length,” he 100 foot in yachts of about motor percent- foot, a large starts at 120 a super-yacht and under construction, currently be much APIS. It would be subject to would the Caribbean yachts visiting age of the tonnage applies length rather than weight: to consider yachts by more appropriate much more eas- yachts.” Length is also vessels, feet applies to luxury to commercial for verification than is tonnage. ily measured Ministers have Show, and government at the Fort Lauderdale Boat have been away in Puerto Tourism Organisation Conference at the Annual Caribbean been off island that once every- are cautiously optimistic meeting in Paris. We Rico or at a UNESCO if the wheels of positive developments, even their desks, there will be one is back at grind slowly. legislative change I wonder whether it would be helpful if one of the CARI- will still be around for a while. hosted a meeting for all the islands’ relevant COM member states’ governments sector representatives, to see if there is a way we might authorities and the yachting governments agreeing to exclude yachts below a certain move forward. At least, all the An extra layer of bureaucracy is the last thing we need.” length would certainly help. as World Cup 2007 required the region to be treated venue agreements for Cricket unprecedented freedom of movement across bor- one geographical space facilitating the challenge, therefore, was to facilitate such ders by nationals of many countries… our many tourism-based economies, while at the same movement, so important to of our region. To achieve this objective, a Common time preserving the security developed and a decision taken to introduce Advance CARICOM Visa Policy was Systems…. Nationals and other persons already Passenger and Cargo Information benefit from free movement within the Space. Visitors enjoying legal status would freely after entering the first port.” would also be able to move (unless considered necessary for identification inspection or stamping of other reason as determined by the relevant Immigration as a result of an alert or any and Customs form which was authority), and the use of a common entry/departure provide. all people traveling within the space were required to of the Single Domestic departments within the region prior to the commencement levels. According to IMPACS, Space, providing briefings and advice to officials at all process and was well received. this served to reinforce the level of commitment to the and brought less revenue siderable public expense to bring venues up to standard be made a permanent to many host countries than expected, why can’t CARICOM which brings the area sig- single space for yachting tourism, a sustainable activity being borne by the private sec- nificant income every year, with virtually all expenses tor, and which, if encouraged, has growth potential? The CMA is a member of organizations, but also works with other regional bodies. that the CTO can play a the Caribbean Tourism Association, and it is to be hoped the threat that APIS, as cur- part in working with the CMA and the JRCC to decrease and perhaps eventually make rently configured, presents to the yachting industry, CARICOM a single space for yacht tourism. tourism and security.” industry.” it wants without bureaucracy damaging our yachting that can be provided by CARICOM heads meeting in early 2008; any information the JRCCCMA members, other marine colleagues, CTO officials, key and other stakeholders is most welcome at [email protected]. is to the Caribbean and understand exactly how important the yachting industry do so. The best thing about how much it could grow if only they would allow it to Caribbean to work together in APIS is that it has succeeded in getting much of the to get the Caribbean the greater interest of the yachting industry. It has managed of yachts.” talking — and talking, in particular, about the free movement and www.doyleguides.com/apis_regulations.htm. Yacht skippers find this APIS form a major stumbling block. A simpler version could be in the works goes to press, the current situation to the best of our Compass • Antigua & Barbuda, which had been asking yacht skippers to go to an internet café • Antigua & Barbuda, which had been asking yacht skippers at the moment and accord- • St. Kitts and Nevis are not applying an APIS requirement soon,” according to one • In Dominica, “this would not be implemented any time and Keats Compton, as • St. Lucia has not yet enforced its APIS legislation either, yachts to fill out APIS • St. Vincent & the Grenadines Immigration officers asked of 2007 in regard to yachts. • Grenada has not enforced its Immigration (Amendment) Act expired on June 30th • Trinidad & Tobago’s legislation requiring APIS enforcement this time of year, we’ve had With relatively little visiting yacht traffic, especially at solution, and an over- But just as simplification of the APIS form isn’t the complete A Charter Company Director Says… vessels to competent indi- “The yacht charter industry is based on renting sailing A Boater Says… A visiting yacht owner recently wrote to the JRCC: “The consensus of many cruis- “You see,” he went on, “I have a choice: I can submit to your rules or I can take “But perhaps this is all much to do about nothing,” he added hopefully. “Reading The Way Out? The four examples of the Immigration Acts of 2007 that we have seen are all very Mercifully, the four Acts we’ve seen also contain an escape clause, saying that Antigua & Barbuda’s Immigration and (Amendment) Act, 2007 also spec- Island by Island As this issue of Although many key officials are aware of APIS and concerned about its potential and concerned of APIS officials are aware many key Although state CARICOM API for a certain needed to file to know if he who wanted A cruiser provide sub- strict — the relevant laws enforcement has not been It’s a good thing and fill out APIS forms this summer under its Immigration and Passport (Amendment) and fill out APIS forms this summer under its Immigration for all yachts. Act, 2007, has now suspended enforcement of this requirement future: “They think it ing to a correspondent have no plans to do so in the immediate appreciate that the 24-hour would cause confusion among the yachts. They particularly islands like St. Barts.” rule cannot work for them with yachts coming from non-API islands of Guadeloupe and official. Dominica, being located between the non-API rule. Martinique, would be especially vulnerable to the 24-hour Lucia, is writing to the Prime President of the Marine Industry Association of St. the suspension of St. Minister and the Minister of Tourism formally requesting Lucia’s Immigration Act of 2007 as it applies to yachts. or more boats arriving from forms online for a brief period in October, and one Island because they hadn’t Grenada waters were reportedly turned away at Union Pompa of the Caribbean filed API forms before leaving Grenada. However, Melodye have not report- Safety & Security Net says that yachts clearing out of set to be the top agenda item ed any mention of APIS. The issue of API for yachts is Board. for an October 29th meeting of SVG’s Tourism Advisory and has not been renewed. no feedback from , Barbados or Jamaica. suspension of enforcement of haul of the filing process for yachts is required, so too must be amended if yacht- the laws on the books isn’t the end of the story. The laws ing tourism is to be protected. reason people do this is to viduals who share them with family and/or friends. The from our clientele we will enjoy freedom of movement. If this freedom is taken away can enjoy this freedom in have no more business in the future, since our clients is already very fragile due almost all other sailing areas of the world. Our industry to weather impacts such as hurricanes, increasing crime rates, expensive flights to small destinations and, last but not least, bureaucracy. I hope that whoever is in charge of these new requirements is working on a suitable solution for small craft.” ers like myself is to avoid the island states that are participating in this action. It is just another straw that is breaking the back of cruisers along with the dramatic increases in clearance and user fees. The economic impact on your community of my deciding not to cruise in your islands will be the loss of US$17,386; that is the amount I have spent in the Caribbean islands thus far this year. my yacht elsewhere. Last evening, my sailing partner and I sat down and started changing our plans to sail west from Trinidad rather than once again cruising in the Eastern Caribbean. It looks like we will spend 2008 in the offshore islands of Venezuela, the Dutch ABC islands, and next hurricane season in Cartagena, . in the newspaper, it seems that not all islands have agreed to enforce this require- ment. Perhaps there are sane heads in some governments after all.” similar, being basically (in the words of St. Vincent & the Grenadines’) “An Act to amend the Immigration Act to impose an obligation on the master of a vessel to trans- mit passenger data to the competent authority in advance of the arrival of the vessel…” some authority such as the Cabinet, the appropriate Minister, or the Governor General may waive the requirements of the key subsections of the Act. knowledge is as follows. impact on yachting tourism, one CMA member said, “It is amazing how many peo- how many said, “It is amazing CMA member tourism, one on yachting impact weeks.” last couple of of it until this unaware were ple in government as people six times, was transferred to find out and phoned the administration said, “I that ‘they’ (he speaking. The last fellow said out with whom I should be tried to figure enforcing it yet.” had not decided to begin tell me who ‘they’ were) wouldn’t, or couldn’t, being the mas- “Subsection (2a): A person, to Antigua & Barbuda’s: sections similar or recklessly & Barbuda, who intentionally bound for a port in Antigua ter of a vessel or (b) transmits with subsection (1); the data in accordance (a) fails to transmit conviction to and is liable on summary false data, commits an offence incomplete or than US$100,000. EC$300,000” — more a fine not exceeding —Continued page from previous NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Caribbean information withthepurposeofevaluatingpresent activities, asurveyonscientificandconservation past severalyears,ataskthatincludes,amongother the criticalsituationofproblematicre-population. fishing vesselswithtrawlingnets,placethesespeciesin hawksbill turtle,andincidentalcapturescarriedoutby spurs forfightingcocksproducedfromtheshellof This, togetherwiththemanufactureofjewelryand are aphrodisiac,medicinalorespeciallynourishing. ed, inmanycases,bythefalsebeliefthatpartsofthem turtles sufferfromclandestinefishingactivitiespromot- protected species. thanks tothistask,seaturtlesarenowconsidered international agreementswithgovernments,and the protectionofthesespecies,attainingnationaland organizations ataworldlevelareworkingveryhardin world, placingthemontheedgeofextinction. tion hasdevastatedseaturtlepopulationsalloverthe the nestingpossibilitiesofthesecreatures.Thissitua- or industrialpurposes,eliminatingandobstructing natural habitatsofthesespecies,fortourism,urban and degradationcarriedoutbymeninmanyofthe their populationsduringthelast300years. meat, eggs,oil,andshells,dramaticallydiminishing years withthepurposeofconsumingandsellingtheir captured andexploitedseaturtlesforthousandsof placed thisspeciesindangerofextinction.Manhas Nevertheless, itishumanactionthathasprincipally predators withinthemarineenvironment. tles, theirhatchlingsandeggshavemanynatural Fundacion LaTortugahasbeenassuming,overthe In spiteofthis,alongVenezuela’scoastsandisles,sea In thefaceofthisdiscouragingscene,different To thisdramaticsituationwemayaddtheinvasion Venezuela’s FundacionLaTortugareports:Seatur- Protecting SeaTurtlesinVenezuela Eco-News the dangerthatthisimpliesforinnumerablespecies sented bytheecosystemsofIsleLaTortugaand the specieswhosecaptureisforbidden. control forduerespectofprohibitionandprotection systems utilizedinthezone,aswellvigilanceand the purposeofkeepingastrictcontrolfishing management plansfornestingandfeedingareas,with beaches oftheisland. (leatherback), andfourofthesespeciesnestinthe (Olive ridley)andthe Caretta caretta (green turtle), reported fortheIsleofLaTortuga: observed ontheVenezuelancoastsandhavebeen sea turtlesexistintheworld,ofwhichfivemaybe tific counselorofFTL). isle, documentedbythescientistPedroVernet(scien- species (leatherbackturtle),hasbeenmadeforthe Likewise, anewregistryonthe investigators FloresandPritchard,during1984. four speciesreportedfortheIsleofLaTortugaby the projecthasconfirmedpresenceofthree the beachesduringnestingprocess. that mayhavebeencapturedintheseaaswellon hawksbills wereanimalsinreproductivesizes(adults) in theirfeedingareas.Incontrast,75percentofthe adults, whichindicatesthatthesehavebeencaptured total oftheremainsobserved,alljuvenileandsub- species isthegreenturtlewith77.78percentof vegetation closetothebeach.Themostaffected percent oftheseremainswerefoundhiddeninthe and trytohideallevidence.Asamatteroffact,88.9 because thefishermenareacquaintedwithlaws one andtenpercentofthetotalactualcapture, observed. Itisestimatedthatthisrepresentsbetween of 18turtlessacrificedatlessthanoneyearoldwere the monthsofMayandJulythisyear,remains world level. our countryandincriticaldangerofextinctionata bill turtles,bothclassifiedindangerofextinction two marineturtlespecies,thegreenandhawks- illegal captureactivitieshasbeenfoundofatleast the StateofNuevaEsparta(GTTM-NE),evidence (FLT) andtheWorkingGroupinMarineTurtlesof cialists andscientistsoftheFundacionLaTortuga tected bythelawsofourcountry. situation ofseaturtlepopulations,speciesamplypro- Taking intoconsiderationthedelicatesituationpre- The aboveevidencestheneedforinitiatingurgent It shouldbeemphasizedthatonlysevenspeciesof Up tothismomenttheteamofscientistsworkingin In thelasttwoexpeditions,whichtookplaceduring From theinformationcollectedbyteamofspe- Eretmochelys imbricata (loggerhead), the Dermochelys coriacea Dermochelys coriacea Lepidochelys olivacea Chelonia mydas (hawksbill) , the quently visitedbeachesoftheisland. Margaret Beach—oneofthemostbeautifulandfre- large andfiveextra-largegarbagebagsonPrincess the disposalgroundinSpring. sponsored atrucktoremovethegarbageandtakeit were carriedtothetopofhillandKaribCable Beach. Theclean-upwasverysuccessful,asthebags minum packets,cans,rubber,etceterafromHope plastic bottles,bags,wrappers,alu- rocky bayswherelitterhadaccumulated. forces tostartcleaningupthenumerousbeachesand friends fromwithintheBequiacommunityjoined different keyareastostarttheclean-upprocess. of allagesandfromovertheislandarelookinginto many differentindependentandcollaboratinggroups Environmental Movementhasofficiallybegun,as tice issuesfacingportcommunities. environmentaljus- ships isoneoftheleastaddressed ship callsamonth,yettheairpollutionfromlarge 350,000 cars,andmajorportsreceivehundredsof cargo orcruiseshipinportcanpolluteasmuch pre-date evenweakinternationalstandards.Justone enginesthat trucks ortrains,andmostoperatewith thousands oftimesdirtierthanthedieselusedby notes thatshipsburnasphalt-likebunkerfuelis Friends oftheEarth.Apressreleasefromgroup pollution intheworld.accordingto sources ofair source ofpollution. Agency forfailingtomeetadeadlineregulatethis trict court,suingtheEnvironmentalProtection Earth filedasuitonSeptember5thinUSfederaldis- lighted whentheenvironmentalgroupFriendsof ga.org orvisitwww.fundacionlatortuga.org. tles andotherprotectedspecies. Do notpurchaseorconsumeproductsfromseatur- conservation oftheseandotherthreatenedspecies. Fundacion LaTortugainvitesyoutobeapartofthe the highestlevelsofVenezuela’sgovernment. Marine, OceanographicandMeteorologicalStation”,at ing, aspromptlypossible,the“IsleofLaTortuga and touristsinthearea. identification ofsustainablealternativesforfisherfolk of sustainabledevelopment.Itcouldalsoassistinthe contributing toabetterunderstandingofthebenefits the purposeofmitigatingenvironmentalimpactsand and sensitizingfishermen,residentsvisitorswith appropriate managementandcontrolplans,educating investigation andeducationalprojects. necessary fortheproperdevelopmentofscientific Station ontheIsleofLaTortuga.Thisinfrastructureis Oceanographic andMeteorologicalInvestigations Tortuga hasproposedtheconstructionofaMarine, that maketheirhabitatinthem,theFundacionLa On SaturdayOctober13,2007thegroupfilled15 The groupfilledover30largegarbagebagswith On SaturdaySeptember8,2007,asmallgroupof Alexandra Paolinoreports Bequia EnvironmentalMovementLaunched Ocean-going vesselsareamongthelargestmobile The issueofairpollutionfromlargeshipswashigh- Air PollutionfromLargeShips For moreinformatione-mailinfo@fundacionlatortu- Fundacion LaTortugahasraisedtheneedforbuild- This stationwouldallowtheapplication —Continued onnextpage —Continued : The Bequia in situ, of NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 During the month of October, all of the St. Vincent of October, all of the During the month to those volunteers Special thanks must be given more about how you If you are interested in learning Debt-for-Nature Swap to give developing nations The US Congress is poised developing nations to “By providing incentives for The bill passed by voice vote, a procedure often used “Deforestation and nutrient runoff from agriculture Fellowships for Marine Resource Governance The University of the (UWI) Centre for The fellowships are associated with the CERMES Persons should also determine if they satisfy the CERMES will consider persons with natural science, Persons who are both interested and eligible may Got Eco-News? Send it to Lowmans Bay and Sunset Point - Young Island (by Island - Young Point Sunset Bay and Lowmans in Division); and the Fisheries Dive Centre Indigo and Adventures (by Bequia Dive at Moonhole Bequia at Plantain in Mustique Sandwatch); (by Mustique and Hall Reef at Bachelors in Watersports); in the and Dive Centre); (by Canouan The Steps Reef, Petit Marine Park at Horseshoe Tobago Cays Tobago Cays and Petit Bateau (by the Tabac, Baradal Marine Park Rangers). by Reef Check teams participated & the Grenadines surveys. With conducting their yearly going out and Check and of a grant received from Reef the assistance assistance Aware as well as technical PADI Project University of marine biologist from the from myself (a that these this is the second year the West Indies), these voluntary teams in reefs have been monitored by St. Vincent & the Grenadines. effort for such a worth- who have given their time and globally! while cause both locally and surveys, please contact can help with future Reef Check Punnett of the SVG country coordinator Sophie Fisheries Division at (784) 456-2738. a chance to pay off in the Caribbean and elsewhere States by preserving some of their debt to the United dollar that qualified forests and coral reefs. Every these fragile ecosystems nations spend to preserve a dollar under a bill passed would reduce their debt by and cleared for passage by the House on October 9th in the Senate. conserve their coral resources, we are in effect pro- tecting coastal landscapes and maintaining coastal quality of water of some of the most important coral reef ecosystems in the world,” said Representative Alcee Hastings. when legislation has little opposition. It extends the Tropical Forest Conservation Act, which provides “debt- for-nature swaps” with 12 nations. Over seven years, these swaps generated $135 million of debt relief while conserving about 50 million acres of tropical forests. The new bill expands the number of eligible nations and adds preservation of coral reefs and marine ecosystems as well as all forests to the program. are killing coral reefs in much of the Caribbean,” said Jan Petri, director of government affairs at Harbor Branch Oceanographic Institution of Fort Pierce, Florida. “A lot of the fertilizer used to grow crops gets washed into the ocean. Seaweeds and sea grasses then grow on reefs, suffocating the corals. It could have an impact if there is an economic incentive for nations to preserve the reefs. It helps maintain and encourage tourism, which is the mainstay of their economies.” Resource Management and Environmental Studies (CERMES) at the Cave Hill Campus in Barbados is offering two MPhil degree fellowships for full-time interdisciplinary research on marine resource gover- nance in the Eastern Caribbean available for 2007/08 and 2008/09 academic years. Each fellowship pro- vides US$17,500 per year for two years. research project on “Marine Resource Governance in the Eastern Caribbean” (MarGov project). Before contacting CERMES, persons interested in this opportunity should first visit www.cavehill.uwi.edu/cermes/margov_pro- file.html for information on the project. The focus is on examining coastal and marine resource governance at national and local levels in OECS countries and Barbados primarily using concepts from complex adap- tive systems and network analysis. UWI requirements for admission to an MPhil degree. Refer to the UWI School or Graduate Studies and Research ‘Manual of procedures for graduate diplomas & degrees’ available at www.uwi.edu/docu- ments/pdfs/Manual_Of_Procedures_2005.pdf or con- sult the School directly. The minimum admission requirement for an MPhil programme is an Upper Second Class Honours first degree or its equivalent. social science or interdisciplinary first degrees. Preference will be for degrees that included marine resource studies and for candidates familiar with Caribbean countries. Candidates in an MPhil pro- gramme are required to register for some graduate courses, but this degree is awarded primarily on the basis of a research thesis. Strong research and field- work skills are essential. The UWI Graduate Studies process for application to do an MPhil will apply. contact the project with an expression of interest, a recent CV and a copy of their academic transcript. E- mail the project at [email protected]. [email protected]. ), Grenada’s national that work is going ahead Compass Leptotila wellsi On September 17, 2007, the American Bird Reef Check in St. Vincent & the Grenadines Kim Baldwin reports: “Reef Check” is the world’s Currently there are a total of ten Reef Check sites On Saturday September 22nd, 55 volunteers from volunteers 22nd, 55 September On Saturday when 160 volunteers Carriacou was a hive of activity and the PADI Aware The dive shops of Carriacou Grenadines Project Alexcia Cooke of the Sustainable Venezuela Cleans Up, Too In Venezuela, Fundacion La Tortuga took advantage Grenada Doves to Inhabit Four Seasons Resort? Word has reached to develop land within Grenada’s National Park at Mount Hartman for a Four Seasons Resort. This is despite ongoing international protests against devel- opment in the last remaining protected habitat of the Grenada Dove ( bird and one of the most critically endangered doves in the world. The 155-acre national park was created in 1996 to protect the species. In April 2007, the govern- ment of Grenada passed an amendment to the National Parks and Protected Areas Act allowing the Governor General to sell any national park to develop- ers or other private interests. Conservancy submitted a detailed critique of the proj- ect to the Government of Grenada, Four Seasons, Cinnamon 88 (resort builders) and its parent corpora- tion in the UK, Capital 88. Some supporters of the resort project believe that the surviving Grenada doves, which number fewer than 200 and perhaps fewer than 100, will be able to co-exist with the hotel. Opponents believe that destruction of dry forest habitat to create a resort and golf course will spell their doom. For more information on the Grenada Dove and the development issue visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grenada_Dove. largest coral reef conservation and monitoring organi- sation which was developed in 1997 as a voluntary, relatively simple method of measuring the health of coral reefs globally. Reef Check surveys monitor the health of coral reefs, fish and invertebrates (i.e. conch, lobster, sea eggs) as well as examine the effects of human activities such as pollution, fishing and coastal development. Reef Check is a community- based programme which relies on thousands of volun- teer divers from more than 89 countries around the world to assist in conducting marine surveys and monitoring the health of coral reefs annually. The information collected is used locally by the Fisheries Division as well as sent to Reef Check headquarters in California where it is compared with data collected from hundreds of reefs around the world. that have been set up and surveyed by five teams in the country of St. Vincent & the Grenadines. These sites are located in St. Vincent at The Gardens - spearheaded by the Mayreau Regatta and Sporting and Regatta the Mayreau by spearheaded the opportunity also used The villagers Committee. itself. the village to clean T- cleanup in their SusGren clad Petite Martinique, the of Sanchez and main beach cleaned the shirts, environ- team, as part of a greater community. The included planted over 30 trees. These mental drive, mahoe seagrape, neem and seaside coconut, almond, the local non- were mainly from trees. The volunteers the Petite organization called governmental community Youth Movement, Martinique Catholic Forty-five volunteers from Carriacou. members and which was were collected in this effort bags of garbage by the Carriacou Environmental coordinated Committee. communities across the descended on seven coastal The cleanup effort was con- island on September 15th. Beach, Bogles, Belvedere, centrated in Harvey Vale and Windward Beach. Dover, Limlair, Bayaleau to also clean their sur- Villagers used the opportunity to get rid of stockpiled roundings, roadsides and of Windward, the main garbage. The boatbuilders in Carriacou, got a much boat-building community dockyard by burning the needed face-lift for their wood. remains of old boats and rotting in similar activities. For Project were also engaged an annual activity. these dive shops this has become 30 large feed bags of Over 240 garbage bags and by no means the extent debris were collected. This was batteries and building of garbage collected, as stoves, homes were piled materials from hurricane-damaged onto trucks. says, “The results from the data cards are yet to reach me but already we have seen an amazing and disturb- ing amount of plastic bottles and food containers (mostly styrofoam boxes).” of International Coastal Clean-Up Day to perform some environmental recovery activities in two very important coastal areas in Venezuela including Mochima National Park and Morrocoy National Park. Over a hundred volunteers collected more than 30 tons of pollutants. Volunteers took the opportunity to distribute brochures with information regarding the reason for this event and different ways to collaborate in the conservation of our natural environment, seek- ing to promote and elevate citizens’ participation in clean-up activities throughout the year. “Garbage at the Coast Chokes” was the theme for St. In Union Island there were approximately 83 volun- In Bequia, the effort was supported by over 60 vol- In Mustique, activities began on September 21st Canouan undertook to clean up the entire village The activity on Mayreau was a great success. It The Grenadines Shine in Coastal Clean-Ups The Grenadines Clean-Up part of International Coastal This year, as Most of the garbage collected included plastic bot- plastic collected included the garbage Most of for Association Bequia Tourism to the Many thanks Bequia, St to work together to keep Let’s continue end and provided preliminary reports on their effort. Vincent & the Grenadines in the annual International Coastal Clean-Up. There were two main sponsors of the activity: Karib Cable provided water, 70 garbage bags, 100 pairs of gloves and 24 T-shirts for Union Island while the Sustainable Grenadines Project donated over 300 T-shirts, hundreds of garbage bags and 400 pairs of gloves to participants across the Grenadines. teers, most of whom were students of the Mary Hutchinson and Stephanie Browne Primary Schools and members of the Union Island 4-H Club. A total estimated weight of 710 pounds of garbage was col- lected over a distance of approximately two miles. The Union Island event was documented on video. unteers and was concentrated in three main areas; Port Elizabeth, Spring and Paget Farm. Over 165 bags of litter were collected in the Jeff Gregg area of Paget Farm. Larger items like parts from machines and building materials were lifted directly onto a truck. At Spring and Port Elizabeth approximately 32 and 12 bags of trash were collected respectively. Most of the garbage retrieved was related to shoreline or recre- ational activities, and included 943 food wrappers and containers and 805 plastic bottles. Also of concern were the 534 outboard lube-oil bottles collected. with brief remarks to volunteers highlighting the need for and importance of such an activity, and describing the effects of coastal pollution and ways to prevent it. An appreciation of this, it is believed, will encourage people to be better stewards of their environment. The activity was led by the Principal of the Mustique Primary School and Ty Kovach and Simon Humphrey of the Mustique Company with over 50 volunteers including students and teachers of the primary school, parents and villagers. Three beaches were cleaned producing in total 23 bags of rubbish with an estimated weight of 69 pounds. The garbage collected on the three areas were mostly related to recreational activities with some dumping from the construction industry being evident. on Saturday September 22nd. Given the magnitude of that task, no records were kept of the types of garbage collected. revealed that much of the garbage — in the form of plastics and mainly plastic bottles — had washed ashore from the sea. The volunteers there collected 53 bags of garbage weighing approximately 318 pounds from five different beaches. The effort was supported by approximately 50 volunteers and was Day, September 15th, the islands of the Grenadines, 15th, the islands of the Day, September Sustainable to Carriacou, under the from Bequia forces with St. Vincent and Grenadines Project, joined to clean up the coastal Grenada in a concerted effort undertook activities to this environment. Each island tles, cups, plates, straws and forks; cans; Styrofoam and forks; plates, straws tles, cups, alu- food wrappers; boxes; cups and take-away plates, and plastic bags. diapers foil; glass bottles; minum water, and to bags and bottles of donating the garbage is essen- sponsoring the truck, which Karib Cable for removal. tial for the garbage and serene! Grenadines clean, green Vincent and the —Continued page from previous Carriacou got even sweeter thanks to this year’s International Coastal Clean-Up volunteers NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 cued food,drinks,musicandfun.Thehighlightofthe excellent turnout,withmanyfamiliesenjoyingbarbe- Parton, GroupOperationsManager.“Wehadan bors withintheWickhamsCayIIMarina,”saidNic employee eventwehavehadsincebecomingneigh- the BVI,atLongBayBeach,BeefIsland.“Thisisfirst Moorings, MooringsPowerandFootloosechartersin becue andpartyforallemployeesofSunsail, At theendofSeptember,SunsailTortolahostedabar- BVI CharterCompanies’StaffPartyFun www.ukho.gov.uk/amd/carriageRequirements.asp. To accessthefreedownload,visit regional centres. ated byaJointInformationWorkingGroupofthetwo and updatedtoensureitremainsaccurate,wascre- The newguide,whichwillcontinuetobeexpanded adopting ECDISastheprimarynavigationtool. tators asoneofthemainreasonsforhesitationin tions haslongbeenhighlightedbyindustrycommen- and understandingoftherelevantcarriageregula- UK HydrographicOffice.However,lackofknowledge and almost6,000officialENCsareavailablefromthe There arenowmanyECDISsystemsonthemarket purchase, regulationoruseofelectroniccharts. ful referenceforanyoneinvolvedintheproduction, regulations inforcetoday,andissettoprovideause- 20 ofthemostcommonlyaskedquestions.Itdetails “question andanswer”style,thisguideanswersover and PRIMARStavanger.Writteninaneasy-to-read ENC centres—InternationalCentreforENCs(IC-ENC) 2005 guide,hasbeencreatedbythetwoleading and CarriageRequirements”,updatingtheoriginal The secondeditionof“FactsaboutElectronicCharts ments —anessentialtoolforallmariners. guide toelectronicchartsandchartcarriagerequire- free downloadfromitswebsiteacomprehensive The UKHydrographicOfficeismakingavailableasa Free DownloadfromUKHO BRIEFS BUSINESS Compass advertising salesanddistributionagentfor and promotionalservices,continueastheTrinidad uninterrupted professionalgraphicdesign,advertising ty inTrinidad.Meanwhile,Boaters’Enterprisewilloffer even morearticlesofinteresttotheboatingcommuni- publication withmorepages,alonger“adlife”,and ly suspended,possiblytobere-designedasaquarterly The popularmonthly Chaguaramas’s yachtservicesandvendors. tion asthemajorlinkbetweencruisersand The websiteBoatersEnterprise.comremainsinopera- and e-mailaddressremainunchanged(seebelow). Chaguaramas canbefound.Phone,faxnumbers porarily movedtoCascadeuntilnewpremisesat restructuring. TheBoaters’Enterpriseofficehastem- world forthepast13years,iscurrentlyundergoing promoted Trinidad’syachtserviceindustrytothe served recreationalboatinginterestsinTrinidadand The well-knownBoaters’EnterpriseLtd,whichhas Boaters’ EnterpriseofTrinidadRestructures and B-Mobile.” Resort, ColombianEmeralds,Nexus,Renport,KMart Smiths Ferries,BoardsailingBVI,LeverickBay,Mainsail prizes donatedbyourfriendsatTheTamarindClub, day wasdefinitelythestaffraffle,wherewon prise.com, orcallfax(868)634-2622. For moreinformation,e-mailsales@boatersenter- next editionontargetforJune2008. of Trinidad&Tobago . Theindispensableannual Boca will continuepublication,withthe magazine willbetemporari- Boaters’ Directory Caribbean The Academy’sgroundsserveasavolunteertraining… ing SoufrierevolcanositstheRichmondValeAcademy. Vincent, justpastChateaubelairandclosetothetower- Academy, St.Vincentwrites:Inaremotelocationin Corbin Littell,avolunteerattheRichmondVale Hiking inRichmondVale,St.Vincent For moreinformationseeadonpage4. Luke’s greatcooking. French orGerman—andtemptingtastebudswith looking forwardtowelcomingcruisers—inEnglish, east sideofClarkesCourtBay.LukeandMarieare Whisper Coveissituatedinaquietlocationonthe specialised inFrenchMediterraneancuisine. and restaurantatCapHaitieninHaiti,wherethey cruising, LukeandMariepreviouslyranalargehotel The beeriscoldandthefoodexcellent—whennot the dinghydockandoffersfreeWiFiinternetaccess. The pretty,colourfulrestaurantisjuststepsawayfrom can alsobedisposedofcorrectlyforasmallfee. able aswellwashinganddryingfacilities.Garbage reasonably pricedmarinawithpowerandwateravail- out breakingthebudget.WhisperCoveisasmall,very accommodate theirrequirementseffectivelyandwith- ly placedtounderstandtheneedsofcruisersand ence oflifeontheoceanwaves,coupleareideal- to BarbaraGroomeof helm ofGrenada’sWhisperCoverMarina.According Long-time liveaboardsLukeandMariearenowatthe Grenada’s WhisperCoveMarinaRe-Opens S/Y Turtle —Continued onpage34 —Continued , withalltheirexperi- NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 article opined that Times of 12 October, “critical payments” have been made Seattle Times Those in the travel business, and the small island economies in the Eastern Those in the travel business, and the small island According to the The firm, founded by Captain Mike Burke in 1947 and popular for its laid-back for its popular and in 1947 Burke Mike by Captain founded firm, The on: “We It goes midst of a storm”. “in the business is indeed that the It concedes who paid by refunds. Those in the US also provided about obtaining Information is Questions still remain about the firm’s difficulties. The “fierce divisions and legal battles among the family members who control the com- “fierce divisions and legal battles among the family members pany” had “culminated in the cessation of cruises”. area, depend on the Caribbean as well as coastal ports in the circum-Caribbean satisfactory and amicable income from visits of cruise ships. They hope a mutually that these fine vessels and solution will soon be found to the present difficulties and happy visitors and crew will once again be sailing. ambiance and operating of sailing vessels that actually could sail without auxiliary sail without actually could vessels that of sailing and operating ambiance sup- urges long-time it optimistically in which a website however maintains motors, be patient. and others to porters the plan to continue on a viable investor groups with several working are actively Walsh, who is Operations Manager Danny tradition”. It was signed by Windjammer the founder. a grandson of are unde- for refunds when services under US law which provides credit card can, to get back their money. the credit card company livered, petition to shipboard staff and debt obligations. Windjammer Barefoot Cruises ships, like those seen here in Grenada’s Carenage in ships, like those seen here in Grenada’s Carenage Windjammer Barefoot Cruises fun and affordable sailing vacations for passengers 1990, have not only provided and crewmembers but also steady employment for scores of Caribbean captains over the years

NORMAN FARIA (2) Yankee Fantome newspaper in Kaiteur News by Norman Faria by Norman

(1923) — the much written about

Mandalay

(built in 1927) and the

Cruises Press reports, including in Guyana from where several crew members are sourced, Press reports, including in Guyana from where several Up to press time in mid-October, efforts were ongoing to try and get the 60-year- Up to press time in mid-October, such as the The family-owned operation, whose venerable schooners Web posts from disgruntled people who had paid for the Windjammer trips found Web posts from disgruntled people who had paid for tell of some of the vessels being tied up in Aruba, Trinidad, Costa Rica and Panama. tell of some of the vessels being tied up in Aruba, Trinidad, upon to help feed the In the case of Aruba, the Red Cross there were called and three each from crewmembers who included 20 Guyanese, six Jamaicans Grenada and St. Vincent, according to the report in the Clipper coast in 1999 — were fre- was lost in Hurricane Mitch off the Central American cruises in recent weeks. quently seen in Eastern Caribbean ports, have cancelled old Florida-based Windjammer Barefoot Cruises off apparent financial sandbanks. old Florida-based Windjammer recordings saying the sails were being kept furled “due to safety matters that can- recordings saying the sails were being kept furled “due said it would no longer insure not be ignored”. In early October, Travelex Insurance members about “safety of cruises. The American Society of Travel Agents warned payments” to the Windjammer Barefoot Cruises firm. Georgetown (Guyana).

to Save Windjammer Windjammer to Save Efforts Ongoing Ongoing Efforts NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 the currentlyopenareaofSt.George’sLagoon proposed dockphasesshownherewouldfillmuchof Right: Theplan—acompletebuild-outofboth his constantcompanion,Louie Above: Themanwiththeplan—PeterdeSavaryand we triedtofindfaultduringourvisit.Itwasn’teasy. published glowingreportsafterbeingwinedanddined, Grenada governmentonwaterrightsintheLagoon. site. PortLouishasobtaineda99-yearleasefromthe gated. ACustomsandImmigrationofficewillbeon open toall;onlytheprivateresidentialareawillbe from designergoodstolocalhandicrafts,whichwillbe ple FloridaintheCaribbean”),withshopsranging Indian-style marinavillage(“Wedon’twanttogivepeo- and 22hillsideapartments.PlansalsocallforaWest yachts upto100metres,twohotels,37lotsforvillas include amarinawithupto350slipsandfacilitiesfor The EC$1.5billionPortLouisGrenadaprojectplansto na projectwhichistransformingSt.George’sLagoon. the map,PDSisdeterminedto. Report ists, whichincludedtheMoscowdeskeditorof we metthenextgroupofvisitinginternationaljournal- Lawson fromTelevisionJamaica.Aswewereleaving, presenter KeriannLeeandcameramanRaymond from the reporter TrevorYearwoodandphotographerSandyPitt the AssociatedPressand Trinidad, whoisacorrespondentforBBCCaribbean, group includedfreelancejournalistTonyFraserfrom in-flight magazine to GrenadafrompublicationsincludingBritishAirways’ staff allcallhim,hasalreadyinvitedover50journalists and internationally.PeterdeSavary,or“PDS”ashis and Grenadaitselfasadestination—bothregionally effort topromotehisnewinvestmentsinGrenada— got married.)ThismediatripwaspartofdeSavary’s world. (ThinkSkiboCastleinScotland,whereMadonna end clubs,resortsandrealestateventuresaroundthe preneur whohasbeeninstrumentalindevelopingtop- October 10thand11thbyPeterdeSavary,anentre- Guardian Knowing thatpeoplewouldsay“youwerebought!”ifwe Compass’s O . IftheRevolutionandIvandidn’tputGrenadaon on anall-expense-paidvisittoGrenada with fiveotherregionaljournalists,wasinvited kay, fulldisclosure: adedicatedprivate managementservice. Horizon Yacht Management . Horizon Yacht Management St. Martin Grenada Antigua Nation (UK), main interest,ofcourse,wasPDS’smari- All atSea newspaper ofBarbados;andreporter- High Life and , The Times 599 544 3329 473 4391000 268 5624725 Trinidad Express Compass’s Boat International Three managementservice onegreat locations, great of ,the editor, along ; veteran . Our [email protected] Robb [email protected]

[email protected] SANDY PITT SANDY Grenada’s PortLouisProject treatment plant,whichwillfeedintotheexisting a pump-out.”Marinaplansincludesmallwaste- the normalfeeatdockwhereeveryberthwillhave pathy forfreeloaders,butanyoneiswelcometopay sewage anddetergentintotheLagoon.Ihavenosym- PDS firedback,“Istronglyobjecttothosewhopump would virtuallyfilltheLagoon),soweraisedissue. complete build-outofbothdockphasesintheplans was prohibitedduringdredgingthissummer,anda ed thelossoffreeanchorageinLagoon(anchoring Cruisers, especiallythoseonabudget,havelament- What’s BIG, Technical Installations Secure Moorings&Dockage and AMBITIOUS? Full ServiceMarinas www.horizonyachtmanagement.com www.horizon-yacht-sales.com waterside scrapyardtoanothersite. tents ofmastermetalworkerLincolnRoss’slarge around theLagoon,andtransportedmostofcon- military helicopterandotherjunkfromin dreds oftons”derelictvessels,cars,thetailaUS entering theLagoon. other contaminatedrun-offfromthesurroundingland offered tothegovernmenthelppreventsewageand municipal sewagesystem,andassistancehasbeen The PortLouispeoplehavealreadyremoved“hun- Authorized dealers Š New andUsedYacht Brokerage Š Professional Delivery Š RoutineMaintenance GREEN

—Continued onnextpage —Continued GRENADA LIFE GRENADA NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 in the Australia II Australia . (It lost to . (It lost Victory In his office with a bird’s-eye view of the marina site, “Boats have been my life,” says PDS, who led the PDS, who led life,” says have been my “Boats Hood, of Tourism, the Hon. Brenda Former Minister our group the Hon. Keith Mitchell told Prime Minister diverted to countries affected by the southeast Asian tsunami; and some infrastructure still needs repair. He says that Peter de Savary’s extensive investments in Grenada are creating jobs, training opportunities, and awareness of Grenada as a destination in ways the gov- ernment currently can’t afford to do. he told us, “There have been many marina proposals, but every time our hopes were raised, they were dashed. The proposals always lacked the necessary ‘teeth’ to make the project a reality.” Glancing out the window, he added, “I, as a Grenadian, thought I would never see the Lagoon cleaned up in my lifetime.” eventually tie up stern-to. A target date of December 1st of December date A target tie up stern-to. eventually which 70 large boats for up to set to be ready has been holidays. here for the to come are planning Cup in America’s for the team in its challenge British aboard 1983, crew want, what boatowners and heats.) “I understand all of them.” Louis is going to work for and I think Port it will work for journalists that she feels told the visiting we want “We don’t want mass tourism, Grenada, too: rather than that is year-round.” And, upscale tourism said she feels enclave for the elite, she create a resented St. George’s will upgrade and enhance the that Port Louis part of it. if Grenadians feel they are area, especially economy is still suffering of journalists that Grenada’s in 2004: revenue from the impacts of Hurricane Ivan dried up; foreign aid was agriculture, tourism and taxes Left: Piles being set for dock at eastern end of mega-berths Left: Piles being set for dock at Chandlery manager Below: Cautious optimism. healthy competition, and Jonathan Fisher, at left, sees anticipates charter operator Mosden Cumberbatch opportunities for his countrymen

SANDY PITT (2) Who is this PDS, then, and why has he chosen to Grenada, he says, is an excellent location for a mari- Ground was broken for the marina one year ago. The entrance to the Lagoon is being dredged to 20 invest in Grenada? The intense, high-energy 63-year- old tells us that, of English parentage, he spent his early boyhood in Venezuela and first came to Grenada with his family, on vacation, in 1952. They stayed at the old Islander Hotel, which sat on the hilltop that is slated to be the centerpiece of Port Louis’s residential and hotel area. “I learned to handle a boat in Grenada,” he says. “It was here I fell in love with boats and the sea.” na because, being below the hurricane belt, it can be enjoyed year round; plus there are good air links, a stable government and “a tremendous level of cooper- ation and understanding”. He adds that there are many things to do off the boat (“some places you just want to get on the boat and leave”), as well as excel- lent sailing conditions, various anchorages, good snor- keling and dinghy-accessible restaurants, for those who want to day-sail from the marina. Buildings erected so far, such as the Victory Bar & Grill which opened in April, are mostly of simple wooden con- struction with galvanized roofs. The Dutch construction company that built Grenada’s new cruise ship terminal was hired to do the “heavy lifting”, using dredging and other equipment conveniently already on-island. The company, Volker Stevin, employs local labor. feet. At the time of our visit, in the previous five weeks alone, two and a half acres of “reclaimed” land had been created behind a concrete sea-wall where yachts will and on, for decades. And the old GYS site and its envi- site and GYS the old And decades. on, for and unsa- distinctly had become Ground”) rons (“Ballast drug- there was a 2006, late — in September vory of steps area, in the then-secluded assassination related stands. Bar now Victory the marina’s from where a 24/7 plans for there are now tells us that Danny patrol. Lagoon security see www.lee- , “There are always peo- ]. Compass What of socio-economic issues? Since the demise of Jonathan Fisher, manager of the Island Water World It is estimated that the new marina will create some What about safety and security in the area? Boats at Grenada Yacht Services, a marina which had its hey- day in the Lagoon in the 1960s and ’70s, yachtspeople anchoring in the Lagoon have interacted with locals and contributed to the support of many businesses along the shoreline. What impact will the new marina have on the neighborhood and its existing businesses? chandlery on Lagoon Road, says he sees Port Louis as a step forward for Grenada’s yachting infrastructure and feels that “competition is healthy.” Charter yacht owner/operator Mosden Cumberbatch, who grew up in the neighborhood, tells 50 jobs. Key posts such as Marina Manager (Danny Donelan) and Dockmaster (Junior Cuffie) have already been filled by Grenadians. The marina’s PR team of Francine Stewart and Barry Collymore are also Grenadians. anchor in the Lagoon have been targets of theft, off ple who object to change, but I know a lot of skilled guys from here working in Tortola or Fort Lauderdale on yachts who would want to come home, and this can be their chance.” And although he notes that more public consultation on projects of this scope is always welcome, he is satisfied with the docking facility across the Lagoon that PDS has proposed for the locally owned charter and fishing boats that will be displaced from their former moorings. (The Grenada Yacht Club and the small local- ly owned docks on the east side of the Lagoon will not be displaced by the marina development.) ward.com/eco_marina.cfm —Continued page from previous facto used as a de has been the Lagoon Although anoth- “Give me years, PDS says, sewer for dump and repair.” not beyond — it’s or ten months er nine marina that the Donelan adds Manager Danny Marina [ standards for “Eco Marina” is aiming NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 Brathwaite; third,ShakeemCollins;fourth,Kendel Class winnerswere:first,KenzoSzyjan;second,Clinton the positionswerecloselycontested.TheOptimist the skillstheyhadlearnedthroughoutsummerand competitive racingkickedoff.Theyoungstersshowed es —OptimistandMosquitodinghiesadayof A groupof15youngsailorswasdividedintotwoclass- by GSAandGYC. marks thecloseofSummerSailingProgrammerun their JuniorRaceDayforSeptember15th.Theday er withtheGrenadaYachtClub(GYC)re-scheduled endar, theGrenadaSailingAssociation(GSA)togeth- After TropicalStormFelixblewthefirstdayoffcal- Young GrenadianSailors’RaceDay NEWS REGATTA Summer Programme2007attheirRaceDay Tomorrow’s sailorstoday.GraduatesofGrenada’s www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel:+1 2684606054Fax: +12684606055 Falmouth HarbourMarina youth sailing,andTurbulenceGrenadaLtd,the thank BudgetMarineforitslong-termbackingof The GrenadaSailingAssociationwouldalsoliketo their friendstojoininandenjoythefunofsailing. Programme andtoldtheyoungsailorspresenttotell the continuationofthisimportantYouthSailing Grenada YachtClub’scommitmentandsupportfor ue totrainforthefuture.Mr.Steelespokeof for summer2007andsheencouragedthemtocontin- sports supportedinitsTalentIdentificationProgramme was particularlypleasedtoaddsailingitslistof young sailorsthattheGrenadaOlympicCommittee At thePrizePresentation,Mrs.BrunoVictortold ing thevenue. for itssupportoftheProgrammeaswellprovid- Management CommitteeoftheGrenadaYachtClub Instructor TrainingCourseinitiatedthisyear,andthe Association forhelpwithfundingtheimportant She wentontothanktheGrenadaOlympic whatever theirlevelofexperience.” sailors whohavebeenshowinggreatcommitment— have workedveryhard,andtoouryoungGrenadian instructors VaughnBrunoandMichaelMcQueenwho thanks gotoourinstructorKevinBanfieldandtrainee Yacht Clubhasbeenahugesuccessandmany Summer SailingProgrammethatwehaverunwiththe Association TreasurerJacquiPascallcommented:“The day sailinginGrenada. Jackson tookhomecertificatesasareminderoffun take partintheday,andSolomon,SummerSam iting intheiryachtfromtheUSAwerealsoinvitedto ing everydayoftheSummerProgramme.Afamilyvis- commendation andaBudgetMarineCapforattend- Mosquito Class,JoshuaJamesalsoreceivedaspecial tificates. Aswellashisprizeforfirstplaceinthe Summer SailingProgrammewillalsobereceivingcer- sailors fromCarriacouwhohadtakenpartinthe Weber, AlvisCudjoeandRyanMohan.Fouryoung Baptiste, NeilonAberdeen.JoshuaTuson,Michael Certificates wenttoTaiteLehov,TarvinJoseph,Sydney dance attheGSA/GYCSummerSailingSchool. the day,pluscertificatesacknowledgingtheiratten- Marine, alltheyoungstersweregivencertificatesfor well asprizesprovidedbytheGSA,GYCandBudget Ashley Steele,TreasureroftheGrenadaYachtClub.As Bruno VictoroftheGrenadaOlympicCommitteeand The dayendedwithapresentationattendedbyVeda Cherman; fourth,brothersShaneandShevonHardle. James; second,JohnathanElibox;third,Nicholas Martin. TheMosquitoClasswinnerswere:first,Joshua • ExcellentdockageforSuper-yachts • 30stern-toberths,alongsideberths • Electricity(110,220&3803-phase), billfish trophycollection What ahaul!St.Lucia’sExoduscrewandtheirnew Third Day,MostReleasesandBestAnglerbyReleases. (to beheldinCaboSanLucas,Mexico),BestBoat to takepartinthe2008IGFAOffshoreChampionship Lucian Boat,QualificationfortheCaptainandCrew The GameFishingAssociationofMartinique’sBestSt. Association’s TrophyfortheBestNon-TrinidadianBoat, Boat, SLGFAChangeTrophy,TrinidadGameFishing biggest collectionofprizes,includingBestOverall but itwasaSt.Lucianboat, Out of23boatsentered,onlyfivewerefromSt.Lucia pound-test line. boat tion record.DanielAgostini,fishingfromTrinidadian 657 pounds,fellonly50poundsshortofthecompeti- for thefirsttime.Thebiggestcatch,amarlinweighing on September29th,wasthisyearheldinMarigotBay The annualSt.LuciaBillfishTournament,whichended Tournament Near-Record Catchin17thSt.LuciaBillfish 415-2022/443 5452,orSarahBaker456-0914. For moreinformationcontactJacquiPascall(473) foressentialsafetyequipment. Grenada SailingFestivalCommitteeandAmerican up to350’LOA,21’Draft with fullmarinafacilities • Drive-downdock water, fuel,telephone&internet, cable TV,24hrsecurity, garbage disposal&washroom providing easyaccessforlarge shipments &marine services Gud Tyme , caughtthewinningmarlinwith80- —Continued onnextpage —Continued Exodus , whichwonthe NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 is event. atta 2008. —Continued on next page more information on the Grenada Classic Yacht Classic Grenada on the information more grena- or e-mail visit www.classicregatta.com Regatta [email protected]. BVI Cay Nations Cup, Nanny held regatta will be Nations Cup Nanny Cay The 2007 In and 18th. This is a “Racing November 17th and is in association with the RBVIYC, Paradise” event National Nanny Cay Marina and Resort. sponsored by hold the all team members must pride is at stake: same passport. and over the region are expected Teams from all firmly com- closed at 22 teams. Already entries will be BVI (two Maarten, Holland, Ireland, mitted are St. UK and US USVI, “HIHO USA”, and teams), St. Lucia, will be rotat- up from local racers. Boats teams made between races, the sails ed, crews spend time ashore are identical. to your country and take Be a true sailing Ambassador Cay Nations Cup! on the world at the 2007 Nanny For more information visit www.racinginparadise.com. Regatta 26th Coral Bay, St. John, Thanksgiving by the Coral Bay This popular regatta, organized November 23rd and Yacht Club, will be sailed on waters of the 24th, in Coral Bay and the adjacent will be classes for east end of St. John, USVI. There Boats, Cruising Gaffers, Single Handers, Traditional 420s. Boats, Optimists, Lasers and at time of registration. Sailing instructions will be available For more information visit www.skinnylegs.com. Get Set for a Record ARC! (ARC) is on course for a The Atlantic Rally for Cruisers confirmed to take part record entry, with 240 yachts rally from the Canary in this year’s transocean cruising Islands to St. Lucia in November, topping the previous maximum of 234 entrants in ARC 1999. With more yachts currently on the waiting list, the final entry fig- ure may be higher still. World Cruising Club, the organisers of the ARC, is cur- rently gearing up for the departure of the ARC 2007 fleet from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria on the 25th of November. A continual programme of improvements made by the Las Palmas Port Authority to their marina in the heart of the city of Las Palmas has meant that more yachts than ever before can now be accom- modated. Furthermore, all yachts will have a pontoon marina berth, essential while crews make their transat- lantic preparations. Sunday, February 3rd Saturday, February 2nd 9:00am2:30pm First Warning Awards Ceremony 9:00am First Warning For January 31 - February 3 Optimist (Green / White / Blue / Red) Optimist (Green / White / Blue www.grenadasailingfestival.com. • Laser (4.7 / Radial / Standard) • Snipe • Laser (4.7 / Radial / Standard) Classes: Big splash! A large crowd enjoyed the official launch Big splash! A large crowd enjoyed 2008, to be sailed party of Grenada Sailing Festival January 25th through 28th Port Louis Grenada is also helping to bring another Port Louis Grenada is also helping On October 11th, major sailing event to Grenada. Sponsorship of the Port Louis announced its Silver The Regatta will be Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta. 24th, 2008. held from February 21st through Savary, described the Port Louis Chairman, Peter de classic yachts sailed race as a unique event. “These know that most our waters years ago and I Grenadians have not seen these kinds of yachts for many years. We at Port Louis Grenada are therefore delighted to be a major sponsor of this event.” He noted that his organization would continue to sponsor worthwhile events in Grenada, including the Grenada Round the Island Easter Regatta and the Grenada Billfish Tournament. Additional sponsors of the event include Bel Air Plantation (www.belairplantation.com) as a Silver Sponsor, Shipwrights Ltd. (www.shipwrights.com) and the Maritime School of the West Indies (www.mswi.org ). Several other organizations are in the process of commit- ting their sponsorship to the Grenada Classic Regatta. For more information visit on the Grenada Sailing Festival visit into one of the best in the world. Both government Both world. in the the best one of into Port Louis commended festival committee and the to a long-term commitment for making Grenada has Louis Grenada festival. Port the sailing sponsoring Festival for the the Sailing to sponsoring committed the fes- Louis and this time Port years. During next three globally. will be marketing the festival tival organizers ; 7th International Regatta 2008 7th International • San Juan, Puerto Rico Club Náutico de San Juan ; Best ; Best Angler . Rum’n’Coke Exodus Follow Me IV Gud Tyme Friday, February 1st Charter Boats: Optimist / Laser, used boats upon availability. Hotels: Hotel list available Charter Boats: Optimist / Laser, used boats upon availability. Hotels: Hotel list For additional information, please contact Ana Julia or Gilberto Berrios at (787) 722-0177 For additional information, please contact Ana Julia or Gilberto Berrios at (787) ; Most Wahoo, Kevin White on ; Most Wahoo, Thursday, January 31st 8:00am Skippers’ Meeting 3:00pm - 5:00pm 3:00pm Check-in Practice Race 10:00am First Warning Crystal Blue www.nauticodesanjuan.com [email protected] Fax: (787) 724-8059 www.nauticodesanjuan.com [email protected] ; Most Sailfish, Ruth Liney on ; Most Sailfish, Pre-Registration: US$ 90.00 (on or before Dec 1st), Registration: US$ 120.00 (after Dec. 1st & before Jan 19th) Pre-Registration: US$ 90.00 (on or before Dec 1st), Registration: US$ 120.00 (after Jan. 31st Late Registration: US$ 150.00 (after Jan 19th ) Registration will be closed after Club Náutico de San Juan reserves the right to make changes where appropriate and to invite additional classes to compete in th Club Náutico de San Juan reserves the right to make changes where appropriate and to invite This regatta announcement is not intended as the Official Notice of Race for the Club Náutico de San Juan 7th International Reg This regatta announcement is not intended as the Official Notice of Race for the Club Náutico Registration Fee: Port Louis Sponsors Grenada’s Sail Fest and Classic Port Louis Sponsors Grenada’s Festival, to be held The Port Louis Grenada Sailing will feature races in from January 25th to 29th, 2008, as well as kayak workboat and keelboat categories and junior races. The Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival 2008 was offi- cially launched on September 25th. Over 200 persons from Grenada and the Caribbean joined the organiz- ers and new sponsors Port Louis Grenada at the new Port Louis Marina’s Victory Bar for the biggest pre- event celebration in the history of the Sailing Festival. Among those enjoying the evening were Minister of Works, Hon. Brenda Hood; Minister of Private Sector Development, Hon. Einstein Louison; Sailing Festival Chairman, Jimmy Bristol, and his entire team, and Port Louis Chairman, Peter de Savary. Cocktails and champagne were followed by speech- es as Minister Hood, Mr. Bristol and Mr. de Savary all endorsed the Festival and committed to developing it Carriacou Sailing Series Sailing Series 2007 The correct dates for the Carriacou 17th. are November 14th through For more information contact [email protected]. 7th Edition of Guadeloupe’s Triskell Cup 7th Edition of Guadeloupe’s edition of 2nd through 4th, the 7th From November in Pointe- Triskell Cup will take place the now-famous In 2006, 83 teams representing à-Pitre, Guadeloupe. on the superb waters of almost 600 sailors competed of Gosier Island. the Cul de Sac Marin in front followed by a cocktail After a first day of two races will culminate in a special party, Day Two’s two races music. On Sunday, two dinner and a show with zouk ceremony at more races precede the prizegiving Marina Bas-du-Fort. organisation@triskell- For more information contact cup.com, (590 690) 49.57.57. Angler by Releases, Serge Littee of Angler by Releases, Agostini on by Points, Daniel Discovery “Cocco” on Most White Marlin, —Continued page from previous 26 a total of and hook-ups, events’ 56 strikes Of the 20 blue marlin, Twenty-five — caught. billfish were — were caught four sailfish marlin, and one white and released. anglers were: the winning Among Best Lady Angler, Lisa Allen on NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 and serious competitionfromtwoVolvo60s: hours, 32minutesand30seconds,butwillfacesome set lastyearbyItalianmaxi maxi seven yachtsover18.28metres(60feet).TheAustralian Divisions. Thisyear28yachtswillberacing,including Racing ClubinoneoftheARC’stwoIRC Atlantic, undertheauspicesofRoyalOcean cruising fun,someskipperschoosetoraceacrossthe While themajorityofARCyachtsaretheretoenjoy nets contributefurthertothesafetyofparticipants. EPIRB andlong-rangecommunications.Dailyradio carry arangeofsafetyequipmentincludingliferaft, safer andmoreenjoyable,thoseparticipatingmust for cruisingyachtstomaketheAtlanticcrossingboth Conceived andoftendescribedas“afriendlyrace” yachts enteredrespectively. being mostwidelyrepresentedwithtenandfive part; theFrenchyardsLagoonandFountainePajot grow inpopularitytheARCfleet,with21taking yachts participating.Cruisingcatamaranscontinueto lar make,Jeanneauwith20yachtsandOyster15 builders Beneteau,wellaheadofthenextmostpopu- Dominating theentrylistwith43yachtsareFrench median sizeof14.40metres(47feettwoinches). in the12to15.24-metre(40-50-foot)band,witha Adams fromtheUK.Fifty-threepercentoffleetlie youngest skipperinARC2007,22-year-oldHenry tough 7.60-metre(26-foot)Folkboat Mariposa Entries thisyearrangefromtheEdDubois-designed transocean sailingevent,butalsoitsmostdiverse. crews, makingtheARCnotonlyworld’slargest many morenationalitiesarerepresentedacrossthe 24 differentnationsrepresentedwithinthefleet,and international audience,and2007isnoexception,with Now inits22ndyear,theARChasalwayshadan in timeforARC2008. scheduled tostartinearlyFebruaryandbecomplete increasing thenavigabledepthinmarina.Workis berths, includingaddingmoreandlargerdocks, ish destinationfortheARC,toexpandandimprove new ownersofRodneyBayMarinainSt.Lucia,thefin- Plans havealsobeenannouncedbyIGYMarinas,the For moreinformationvisitwww.worldcruising.com/arc. 21 days. passage willtakemostoftheyachtsbetween18and St. Luciais2,700nauticalmilesfromLasPalmas;the up fortheirVolvoOceanRacecampaigns. —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued Pindar Loki will behopingtobeattheARCcourserecord at 29metres(95feet),downtothesmallbut , bothwithRussiancrewsracingasawarm- Capricorno Ariel , of11days,5 AAG BigOne sailed bythe For moreinformationvisitwww.transcaraibes.com. Santiago deCuba. participants atthefinaldestination, free nightsatthemarinawillbeprovidedtorally Martin, theBVIandDominicanRepublic.Seven Guadeloupe toCuba.StopswillbemadeinSt. March 29thtoApril4th,2008,sailingfrom The Transcaraibesrallywillseeitsninthrunningfrom events ofTrinidadCarnival2008. time forthehighlight arriving inTrinidad Tobago Caysbefore in Bequiaandthe moving ontoovernights du MarininMartinique, two freenightsatPort on January26th,with Route duCarnivalstarts The 3rdEditionofLa part ofthepackage. Shoreside partiesare like-minded sailors. pany ofafunflotilla own boatinthecom- islands aboardyour number ofCaribbean great waystovisita again in2008.Theseare popular yachtrallies be hostingitstwomost Club Transcaraibeswill Rallies, Ho! [email protected]. For moreinformationvisitwww.cyc2008.orgore-mail early sign-up. 28th to31st)withatopcoach.Theorganizersadvise Before theevent,therewillbeaclinic(December the water! the opportunitytocheckoutbay,windand So ifyouexpecttoparticipateintheOptinam,thisis take placeonCuraçaoJune28thtoJuly6th,2008. Beach, thesamevenueasforOptinamthatwill This yeartheraceswilltakeplaceatJanThiel And thereismore!Thevenuewillbedifferent,too. rather thantransportationofboatsfromEurope. and theavailabilityofboatsforcharterinCuraçao Splash dinghies.Newfor2008aretheearlierdates January 2ndthrough4th,2008forOptimistand The CuraçaoYouthChampionshipswilltakeplace Curaçao YouthChampionships visit www.go-hiho.com. June 29th.Formoreinformation The 2008editionoftheeventisscheduledtobeginon surfing industrycompanies,NeilPrydeandBICSport. Natural MineralWater,HIHO,TheMoorings,andwind- Highland SpringHIHOissponsoredby and non-racingparticipantsonatouroftheBVI. ing eventsintheworld.Started1979,ittakesracers The eventisoneofthebest-knownamateurwindsurf- ly intheBritishVirginIslandsatbeginningofJuly. windsurfing andsailingeventthattakesplaceannual- Highland SpringHIHOisaweek-long,international read internationalmagazines.” HIHO andtheBVIarebeingpublicizedinsuchwidely event. “It’sthrillingtohearthattheHighlandSpring Morrell ofOceanPromotionsLtd,organizersthe “This iscertainlyanaccolade,”commentedAndy featured inthelist. event wastheonlywatersports The well-knownannualwindsurfingandsailing voted “themostfunyoucanhavestandingup”. Travel &Lif on thepersonalexperiencesof sights, soundsandstories”.Thecompilationisbased special issueidentifies100oftheCaribbean’s“best 2007 issueof sailing eventhasbeenfeaturedintheOctober The annualHighlandSpringHIHOwindsurfingand BVI’s HIHOWindsurfingEventMakes‘Best’List e teamandHighlandSpringHIHOwas Caribbean Travel&Life Caribbean magazine. The NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 newspaper. Barbados Advocate , 22 December 1989): “No reasonable

About a hundred supporters and members of the About a hundred supporters Steering Committee The balance sheet report from from the management On hand to present a case A Memorandum of Understanding was to be The fresh wind in the sails of the boating institution The Club has an interesting history. It was founded The Cruising Club’s first Commodore was Ian Gale, In conversations with this writer when I visited In fairness, the Club has in recent years received the The Barbados Cruising Club was popular with visit- The Club held an annual Regatta sponsored by the On hand at the October gathering was Lesley by Norman Faria Weekend Nation financially strapped 50-year-old Barbados Cruising financially strapped 50-year-old in mid-October to go Club gathered at the clubhouse forward by a group of local over a rescue proposal put businesspeople. and former Commodore members Dr. Mike Krimholtz the outstand- Richard Leslie wasn’t too encouraging: government and Needham ing debt to the Barbados the property is leased, Point Holdings, from which the telephone could not be paid from subscriptions, structure badly needed was cut off and the wooden repairs, among other problems. consortium was Duane Burke from the famous Burke group of Barbadian sailing families. The bail-out plan entailed the sorting out of the debts, commitments to pay monthly rent and utility bills, and refurbishing the clubhouse and environs, in return for them run- ning the bar and part of the structure as a commer- cial enterprise. Plans are also on the board to renew contacts with the island’s school system to get more youngsters from all strata of society involved in boat- ing and marine activities including kayaking. worked out and presented to an upcoming General Meeting for the membership to give final approval. From the sentiments expressed at the October get- together it appears that the consortium will indeed come on board. should be welcomed by all, including regional and European and North American yachtspeople who knew it during its heyday in the 1960s. in 1957 by a group of local and expatriate boating enthusiasts who had difficulties with the then-named Royal Barbados Yacht Club which is situated 200 metres along the shore of Carlisle Bay. the late proprietor of the Bequia Bookstore and a for- mer editor of the Reminisced Gale in an interview with Tony Vanterpool ( with him at the Bookstore, he said they had a found- ing meeting in the old Aquatic Club which was then situated next to the Yacht Club. The Aquatic Club provided some vacant changing cubicles and the members used them until a new structure, modeled on the St. Lucia Yacht Club building, was erected in the early 1960s. support of BYC (its Royal Charter was removed by the Barbadian government) sailing members such as Ralph “Bruggadung” Johnson, Tony and Peter Hoad, and others knowledgeable about the significance of the Club’s existence. ing yachtsmen who in years gone by were permitted to anchor their boats off the Club in that part of Carlisle Bay among the local yachts (now special permission has to be obtained from the Coast Guard). It is hoped that the new generation of cruisers will once again patronise it. local Banks brewery company among other activi- ties. However, during the 1990s membership fell off and the Club had trouble paying bills. Ironically, some former Cruising Club members took up mem- bership at the Yacht Club; the Yacht Club’s allure includes paid boat-hands and a tractor to pull up keelboats in their trailers. Barrow, daughter of an early member and keen sup- porter, the late Barbadian Prime Minister and now one of its National Heroes, Rt. Hon. Errol Barrow. Also present was Sir Keith Hunte, former Chancellor of the Barbados campus of the University of the West Indies. person could assert that the Royal Barbados Yacht Club, as it was then, was not a very prejudiced insti- tution. Of course it was, and to be fair, they discrimi- nated against black and (poor) white.” Club’s Sails? Club’s Cruising in Barbados in Barbados New Wind Wind New NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 word HEATbyreplacingoneletteratatime: ✽ Doyle Barefoot-theonlysailrepairloft ✽ leLgo,S.Vincent&theGrenadines Blue Lagoon,St. Can youmakeitinfewersteps? This waytakessevensteps. HEAT MEAT MELT MALT MALE PALE POLE Here’s onewaytochangethewordPOLE Surfshop -WatersportsCentreBoutique Facility forVisiting Yachtsmen Internet Café-Faxandweatherservice Internet Bareboat &CrewedCharters e:(8)4692 Fx (784)456-9238 Fax: (784)456-9526 Tel: saw their adin to tellouradvertisers you t Vincent’s BestFullService St. Answer St. Vincent-professionalsail,bimini ✽ Dolly’s http://www.barefootyachts.com & dodgerrepairsatgreatprices Spare partsordering E-mail: [email protected] ☛ ✽ Restaurant, Bar,dinghydock ASA SailingSchool ✽ Raymarine Electronics REMEMBER ✽ Yacht Charters Barefoot PADI DiveShop & MarineCentre Compass ✽ Apartment ! in through their urineorfluidsofparturition intowaters or water poolsorstreams. Theyexcretetheorganism domesticated mammals inhabitingareasaroundfresh- shaped Leptospirabacterium thatresidesinwildor on thetailendofaraging hurricanetoo!) coming, verynearlyresultingintheboy’sdeath. (Allthis ia andtyphus.So,anaccuratediagnosis waslatein ics othertropicaldiseasessuchasdengue fever,malar- what exactlywaswrongwithhim,asthe diseasemim- terribly. Hisparentshaddespaired,trying tofigureout leptospirosis. Thankfullyherecovered,after suffering would haveit,myfriend’ssoncontracted thedreaded Grenada withouryoungfamilyandfriends. Asbadluck my attentionwhenswimminginthewaterfall poolsin Caribbean islandsthanschistosomiasis.It firstcameto tablets, youshouldbecured. But afteracoupledaysoftakingtheappropriate result inincreasedsymptomsforatransientperiod. cian, asthesheddingofdeadwormsandeggscan infection shouldbedoneinconsultationwithaphysi- Center forDiseaseControl(www.cdc.gov). fresh water.Asimplebloodtestisavailableatthe you mayhavecomeintocontractwithcontaminated tell yourdoctorofrecentforeigntravels,andthat diagnosis. IftestedoutsidetheCaribbean,besureto ples wouldbeoptimal,toincreasethelikelihoodof shedding ofeggscanbesporadic,severalstoolsam- Rico orTrinidadbythelocalmedicallab.Since tions; oritcanbesenttolargerlaboratoriesonPuerto performed atmostislandhospitals’microbiologysec- samples isthesimplestroutetodiagnosis.Thiscanbe who wassadly,veryunlucky. like mynewfriendinPuertoRicoaboard in paraplegia,orotherneurologicalmanifestations, There canbeectopiceggsinthespinalcord,resulting tations withcoughandpulmonaryhypertension. For example,therecanbepulmonary(lung)manifes- clinical findingsdependingonwheretheeggsmigrate. stream, onecanalsoseeavarietyofsymptomsand sea. Sincetheeggsaredisseminatedinblood headaches, jointandmusclepain,diarrhea,nau- abdominal pain,bloodintheurine,weakness, which includesfever,lackofappetite,weightloss, The mostcommonacutesyndromeisKatayamaFever; will haveanenlarged,uncomfortableliverandspleen. abdominal pain,diarrhea,andfever.Onexam,one months. Initialpresentingclinicalsymptomsinclude infection, butcanalsobedelayedaslongseveral symptoms canpresentassoontwoweeksafter supply intheliver,andmatureintoadultworms. they arenowcalled,thenmigratetotheportalblood enter thebloodcirculation.These process ofpenetration,thelarvaelosetheirtailsand trate theskinofanunsuspectingswimmer.During trematode wormintothewater,wheretheythenpene- release thefree-swimmingparasiticlarvaeof sue ofavarietyfreshwatersnails.Thesesnailsthen stool ofaninfectedanimal;theythenpenetratethetis- Compass 2005issueof Dr. MarybethEllisonintheJuly tode, thatliveinfreshwater.Accordingtothearticleby flukes, otherwiseknownaswormsofthevarietytrema- paralysis, thenthewheelchair. her casehaddevelopedintoaseizure,resultingin diabetic, andsinceanaccuratediagnosiswasdelayed, waters ofSt.Luciatwoyearsbefore.Becauseshewas contracted thediseasefromwadingincoolfresh woman, possessedwithalivelycruisingspirit.She’d with thecaptain’swife,alovelywheelchair-bound Dragon husband PeterandIwereinvitedaboard my-uh-sis) andleptospirosis(lep-to-spy-RO-sis). Caribbean freshwaters:schistosomiasis(SHIS-toe-SO- parasitic diseasesyoucancontractwhenswimmingin invade organs,andgenerallywreakhavoc!Therearetwo beneath thewatersandliketoboreintoskin,layeggs, consider themysteriouscreaturesthatmaylurk entertain andimpressyouwiththeirwaterfallantics. attendance ofahordeislandchildrenwhowill Chances are,yourexcursionwillbeenhancedbythe rainforest forsomecoolingoffatthelocalwaterfall. What isleptospirosis? Itiscausedbyacorkscrew- This seriousdiseaseismorecommon inthe Leptospirosis What isthetreatment?Treatmentofanyparasitic How doIknowifhaveit?Theexaminationofstool What arethesymptoms?AccordingtoDr.Ellison, What isschistosomiasis?Itaninfectioncausedby Schistosomiasis firstcametomyattentionwhen Schistosomiasis But, beforeyoujumpinforacoolswim,might You’re inthetropics,headingdeepintodark Two FreshwaterWarnings in PuertoRico,whereIbecameacquainted , theworms’eggsarereleasedviaurineor schistosomulae Red Dragon M/V Red by TinaDreffin , as , fresh waterstreamsthatcouldbehometoparasites Waterfalls areadelight,butdoyourhomeworktoavoid Travel, which containsadviceon healthrisks. the YellowBook:Health InformationforInternational free. Everytwoyears, theCDC(www.cdc.gov)publishes ed healthtopicsareavailable bycalling877-FYI-TRIPtoll taking precautionsandkeeponjumping! am empoweredwithinformation,I’llsimply continue gorgeous poolsoftheCaribbeanislands. NowthatI nor leptospirosiswillkeepmefromplunging intothe Scud miles undermybeltinover25yearsof livingaboard swimming infreshwaternearanimals. sive dressingstominimizeinfectionpossibilities when exposure. Also,covercutsandabrasions withocclu- days before,andcontinuingthrough, the periodof doxycycline (200gmorally,weekly),begunoneortwo nated waters,chemoprophylaxisisadvisablewith traveling andthinkyoumightbeexposedtocontami- require life-sustainingcareforthosesystemsaswell. in thesecondphaseofillness,thenonewilllikely doxycycline. Ifspecificorgansystemsbecomeinvolved antibiotics: penicillin,amoxicillin,tetracycline,or process, leptospirosisiseasilytreatablethrough able throughmedicallaboratoriesorhealthdepartments. temic collapse,meningitis,encephalitis,anddeath.“ develop liverfailure,renalspleniccrisis,sys- (referred toastheimmunologicphase)thatonecan ical facility.Itisactuallyduringthissecondphase becomes veryillquicklyandneedstoseekoutamed- During thisbiphasic,degeneratingillness,one improvement overaperiodofonetothreedays. ond phaseofthediseaseafterabriefhiatus leptospirosis willbeunluckyenoughtodevelopasec- some casesfatal.Fivetotenpercentofpeoplewith that ithasaveryvariablepresentation,andisin Compass rash, anemia,orcough. vomiting, diarrhea,muscleaches,eyeinflammation, tion, numeroussymptomsare:fever,chills,nausea, agnosed. Usuallybetweenfiveand20daysafterinfec- the fluordenguefever,andmanymildcasesgoundi- skin, mucousmembranes,orwateringestion. pools. Theparasitesthenenterthebodythroughbroken through groundsaturationandrun-offintothenearby even dampsoil.Whensummerrainscome,itisspread For moreinformation, recorded messagesontravel-relat- As aninternationalcruiserwith100,000 bluewater There isnovaccineavailable;however,ifyouare What isthetreatment?Earlyonindisease How doIknowifhaveit?Aspecialbloodtestisavail- Dr. EllisonwroteintheDecember2004issueof What arethesymptoms?Atfirst,theymild,like , our44-footcatamaran,neitherschistosomiasis : “Theworryingthingaboutleptospirosisis NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 , Robert M. Sapolsky, by Gerald N. Callahan, St. Martin’s Press, 2006 But it gets even weirder than that. With better food But it gets even weirder than The conclusion would seem to be we cannot, nor What does all this have to do with cruisers? I have But the anti-bacteria message is so accepted that it All in all, I take this as excellent news for the few Book references (I highly recommend these books, Infection Why Zebras Don’t Get Ulcers that allergies were the result of a dirty environment. In were the result of a dirty environment. that allergies set out to show a corre- the 1990s Erika Von Mutius and in one of those lation between dirt and asthma, moments, found just wonderful serendipitous science then, it has been found the opposite to be true. Since are bought up on farms that kids who have pets or brought up in spotless have fewer allergies than those for allergies is becom- homes. This hygiene hypothesis A recent headline in ing more widely accepted. a day puts your baby at Scotman.com said: “A bath babies are more risk”. It turns out that overbathed officials now recommend prone to eczema, and health three times a week. bathing babies fewer than off many of the intes- preparation, we have shucked plague us. But did they tinal parasites that used to Crohn’s disease happens also confer some benefit? attacks the bacteria of the when the immune system developed nations. gut. It is found mainly in wealthy do with a lack of para- Could it have something to thought it might. sites? Researcher Joel Weinstock He tried feeding pig whipworm eggs to Crohn’s suffer- ers and got a 72 percent remission rate. These results have since been confirmed by others. Studies on mice show that worms might help prevent Type 1 diabetes and asthma. should we try to, avoid all infection; rather, we need to be choosy about our infections. An analogy might be human society — we need to interact with other peo- ple; isolation is unhealthy. However, we should try to avoid dealing with conmen, rapists, muggers and murderers. We can help ourselves, both in the case of people and infections, but life is not risk-free and there are no guarantees. noticed that some cruisers these days take what I would consider to be rather extensive precautions against infections. I have met people who would not walk barefoot in a river or swim in a waterfall. I have read about people who wash every piece of salad in potassium permanganate. Many only drink bottled water. And I am not going to say they are wrong — everyone has to navigate their own path in life. But the feeling I get is that being overprotective is a lot less fun and may not be doing you any favors, while avoiding obvious and dangerous infections is common sense. Taking precautions against AIDS is a good example, as is avoiding bathing in slow-running rivers in Guadeloupe or South America where bilharzia may be a risk. If a blood-sucking bat partook of my body, I would definitely get a rabies shot. When mosquito- borne dengue fever is around, I use “Off”. is hard to find regular, as opposed to anti-bacterial, soap. The advertising industry seems to have sold us on the idea we will somehow be healthier if we kill off the bacteria on our skins. Washing our hands well with regular soap before eating does help get rid of extra bacteria or viruses that might be hitching a ride and would like nothing better than to be invited into our digestive tracts. But upping the ante by using anti-bacterial soap may not be wise. We have learnt to live with whatever bacteria regularly hang out on our skin. Attacking them with a specially prepared soap will either cause them to evolve a more resistant strain or kill them, in which case it may provide opportuni- ties for other, tougher, and possibly meaner, bacteria to move in. original Caribbean sailors I still know who won’t let a razor near their face, and would rather kiss a toad than take a bath. both of which are really fun to read): Owl Books, 2004

ran a “cruiser’s health” ran a “cruiser’s

Isolation is unhealthy Compass DECK VIEW FROM TI KANOT BY CHRIS DOYLE BY CHRIS KANOT FROM TI VIEW DECK A QUESTION OF BALANCE A QUESTION A year or so ago, A year or so Grotty Yachties: Grotty We humans think of ourselves as singular beings, The bacteria within our bodies outnumber the rest The delicate balance of the whole setup is fascinat- None of this is static — neither our immune system, Because things like heavily polluted air and second- There is much to recommend this approach, as, There is much to recommend biologists divide into The world is full of life, which separate from other life around us. The truth is messier. We might be more aptly described as colonial animals comprising one big multicellular eukaryote, plus numerous bacteria and a fungus or two. Most of the bacteria reside in our digestive tract and are essential to our proper functioning. Apart from help- ing us digest, they assume control of some of our genes and this helps us regulate water absorption and the formation of intestinal blood vessels. of our cells by something like ten to one. When all goes well, this collection of life forms exists in harmony. This happy circumstance is the result of millions of years of coevolution, and one reason the whole system works is that we have a complex immune system to sort out bad infections from good. Part of our immune system (called the innate immune system) evolved a long time ago, and we share it with insects, plants and fungi. Our more recently evolved adaptive immune system is shared only with other vertebrates. This sys- tem checks out an intruder, figures out the best way to kill it, then attacks it with specially designed and produced cells. It also remembers the intruder for a long time and will be ready to bop it the next time it shows its ugly face, a feature doctors make use of when they give us a vaccination. ing. If your immune system is not active enough, you get sick and can die (this can also happen if your immune system is good, but the infection has learnt how to fool it, or if it multiplies so fast it kills you before you kill it). On the other hand, if you have an overac- tive immune system, it may attack the dust in the air you breathe, or certain foods that you eat, giving you allergies. It may even attack some of your own cells as in multiple sclerosis, when the immune system attacks the myelin sheath of the nerves, and rheumatoid arthritis, when your joints get attacked. A significant number of humans die from infections or get auto- immune diseases, which shows how evolution is always a balance, what a juggling act our immune sys- tems perform, and how lucky we are if we escape. nor our bacteria, nor the cells in our body. Changes in our mood, or environment, or even an infection that passes unnoticed, can have an effect. However, as we have become cleaner, autoimmune disease has become much more common. Allergies to food like nuts, once rare, are now so common many schools have banned them on their grounds. Asthma and hay fever have also increased dramatically. In a recent study it was found one in every three people was affected by some sort of allergy during their lifetime. hand smoke can trigger asthma, it used to be thought apart from being struck by lightning or a truck, few apart from being struck by faster than a really things will smite you into oblivion is no question that the dis- nasty infection. And there and the implementation covery of bacteria and viruses to sidestep them has made of public health measures hand, it is not the whole us healthier. On the other that maybe we have car- story, and there is evidence too far. ried the battle against infection structure; prokary- two groups according to cellular and eukaryotes (the otes (bacteria and cynobacteria) mention viruses, which, rest of us). We should also alive, consist of genetic while not generally considered material that can hook into your DNA and use it for replicating themselves, often with devastating effects. series, describing horrible illnesses that result from series, describing horrible trend that has been with infections. This follows the 19th-centu- us since Louis Pasteur’s groundbreaking to think of infections as ry research in bacteriology: Godliness and strong the enemy, with cleanliness, soap on the side of the angels. NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20

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tel: 440-2310 with localHashHouseHarriers,groupsorganisedfor“drinkersarunningproblem”. across otherwalkersandsharedmemorablehikesthroughtherainforestsinGrenadaTrinidad,orgoneout pound dumbbellwoulddoinForceEight?Andwhynotjustcarrythewater,fuelandgroceries? and rearendintheair. they haveboughtasurpriseguestwiththemandthereyouare,bentdouble,yourheadbetweenlegs knot, youhearyourpartnercomingbacksodecidetoholdtheposeimpresshim/herand,loandbehold, come pastatjusttherightspeedtoproducemaximumwake.Then,asyougetyourselftiedintoanintricate sive equipment.ButtrystandingonyourheadinthesaloonandIcanguaranteethatajet-skiorfishingboatwill all day.didI?(Don’ttellme,Iknow:itstillseemstohappenthatway.) and paysomeoneelsetocleanthebottomofboat.Afterall,Ididn’tadoptthislifestyleslaveawayatchores find ittemptingtojumpintoataxishop,farmthelaundryout,usewatermakerinsteadofcarryingjerryjugs tation tosaveembarrassment.) tend toforgetthatI’mallergicfish.(Ihavenowdevelopedthehabitofremindingthembeforeeverydinnerinvi- lass andtheownerpreferredtohoistsailshimselfwhenwewentsea,whichwasarareevent.Alsothey those anchorsandsails,swimmingeverydayeatingallthatfish,”theysay. ries thanweburnourbodieswillstorethemforarainyday.It’smatterofsimple arithmetic. veggies andfruit,sothatmaybeapartofthereasonIamslim.Thefactis ifweeatanddrinkmorecalo- Republic, wheregreensarenotapartofthelocalfoodculture.Iamvegetarian thesedaysandreallyenjoyfresh great freshveggies,evenontinyislandslikeCarriacouintheGrenadines,and inLuperón,theDominican ually. Nothingputsmeoffexercisemorethanfeelingsorethenextday. used forweights. swimming, walkinganddancingwheneverpossible.Cansoffood,fullbottles water andcartonsofjuicecanbe I findthatthemorecandocomfortably,wanttodo.Startwithtenminutes adayandworkup,adding good forthebuns,I’mtold(Ikeepgettingacrickinmynecklookingimprovement) pelvic muscles,androllmyheadaroundslowlyinbothdirections and dipdownliftup doesn’t havetobethefullarmyversion hands lockedbehindmynecksupportingit,Iusestomachmusclestotryliftshouldersup some exercisesIhavefoundeasytodoanywhere. voyages, althoughsometimesit’saloteasierthanothers.Buthereare flexible, forgivethepun.Wherethereisawillthere’sway,evenonlong opportunity. Butthereisalwayssomewayoftakingexercise. cially guysitseems,areself-consciousaboutdancingwhenthere’sthe Decisions, decisions! domestic strifeplusexerciseorputmyfeetupwithagoodbook? and it’sgivenwithillgrace,Ifindmyselfweighinguptheoptions:have there hashadtobecooperationfromapartnerforlaunchingthedinghy the swellsfromHurricaneIvanwerefelt,sothatdoesn’treallycount.)If ashore inJuangriegoonthenorthcoastofIslaMargarita,Venezuela,as ple ofnastyfallsoutthedinghytryingtobeatsurf.(Onewasgoing Keeping Walking isafavouriteactivityofmine.Ifinditrelaxing,mentallyaswellphysically.Sometimeshavecome Weight trainingisefficientlyeffectiveforkeepingintrim,butcanyouimaginethekindofdamagealooseten- I triedyoga,whichisrecommendedforoverallphysicalandmentalhealthdoesn’tneedbulkyexpen- So howdoIkeepreasonablyfitandslim,evenwhenit’snotalwayseasytogetashore? To tellthetruth,Ihavesameproblemskeepingfitafloatasdidashore.Whenboatchoresmountup Hmm! Ihatetodisillusionthem,butthelastboatspentanyseriousamountoftimeonhadanelectricwind- “You’re stillsofitandslim!”(Theymeandespitemy63years.)“Butofcourseit’seasyforyou,pullingupall When IreturntoEnglandeveryyear,mylandlubberfriendsgroanwhentheyseeme. PS It’sapityexercisedoesn’tseemtodomuchformywrinkles! So turnupthemusic,getintoyourcruisingexerciseroutineandhavefun. Then thereisdiet.Overthe18yearsthatIhavelivedmostlyonboardithasbecome increasinglyeasytofind The oldadage“useitorloseit”iscertainlybecomingtruerasIgetolderandalways startanewexercisegrad- There aremanymorepossibilities,andyou’llfindthosethatyouenjoymostif areonthelook-outforthem. 7) Liftingthelegsback,oneatatime,holdingontosomethingorwhilekneeling withmyhandsontheflooris 6) Standinginadoorway,Itrytomakeitwiderbypushing 5) Whensittingatthewheel,Itrytosquashitbetweenmyhands,situpstraight andpullinmystomach 4) Sittingontheveryedgeofabunk,andIputmyhandsit,eithersideme,thenmovebodyforward 3) Pressups(pushups).Keepingmybackstraight,Idothemkneelingoragainstaflatsurfaceliketable;it 2) Stillonmyback,Idostomachcurls.bendknees,keepingfeetflatthefloor/bunkand,with 1) Ilieflatonmybackandcycleintheairwithlegstogetheartrateup I havedecidedthatkeepingfitisastateofmindandmatterbeing Not allanchoragesaresuitableforswimming.Andsomeofus,espe- But itisn’talwayseasytogetashoreforexerciseandIhavehadacou- www.caribbeancompass.com e r nteWeb! We’re the on Articles & Photos•Advertisers’ Directory •CheckIt Out… TellYour Friends! in Shape by JuliaBartlett Afloat slim, evenwhenit’s reasonably fitand not alwayseasy How doIkeep to getashore?

NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 VHF CH68 CH68 VHF The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Phone (784) 458-3458 458-3758 lunch and dinner We serve breakfast, ) 784 ( VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474 VHF Ch68 or Tel: in Lower Bay,in Lower Bequia Closed on Mondays Tel: Admiralty Bay, Bequia Admiralty Bay, Candelight Dinners Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm. Open from 11:00am Monday to Saturday Monday PLEASE RESERVE! the Frangipani and Plantation House. & Shoreline Mini-Market & Shoreline Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! Taylor welcome Noelina & Lennox Come and find us amongst the trees! Come and find us amongst the In addition to our famous pizza we offer Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between Admiralty Bay, Situated in A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people. where you can sit and meet A friendly atmosphere PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR RESTAURANT PORTHOLE on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up ★ MAC’S PIZZERIA seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods. For Reservations:

GAIL ANDERSON and the Caribbean issues by Don Street Compass, All At Sea I tried (unsuccessfully) to convince them that if they All is not lost, however. At the last Newport boat I also hear that Island Water World is importing long Then, a few years ago, I discovered that Henri Lloyd Then in the late 1970s, through some Irish friends, I Irish friends, through some the late 1970s, Then in to the deal and we shipped them I worked a After cruising the Caribbean for 50 years, Don Street knows the importance of keeping your insides wet and your outsides dry Lloyd had stopped production, as they said they were not selling. were not selling, it was not a fault of the gear but of the sales department. I stated I was sure they would sell if they were advertised in the Caribbean issues of the yachting magazines and the regional sailing monthlies. However, my views fell on deaf ears and the coats sold out and were not continued. show, we discovered that Gill has just started a line of light foul-weather coats that actually look better than the Henri Lloyd coats as they seem to be a bit longer. I urged the sales staff at the show to pass on the sug- gestion to the head of the sales department to adver- tise in of all the yachting magazines. If the sales department does this I am sure the Gill foul weather coats will sell well and Caribbean sailors can have dry tails. foul-weather coats from Australia, so Caribbean sailors will have a choice of two different foul-weather coats. I wonder which will prove to be the best? UK, and was so complicated that the freight costs were more than the cost of the foul-weather gear! So back to the French fishermen’s coats. was making some very good, long, light foul-weather gear, absolutely ideal for the tropics, despite a slight design error: they should have been six inches longer as, unless you were wearing short shorts, the bottom edge of your shorts got wet. But at least the tail stayed dry. I discovered these coats just when Henri was right and we kept dry tails. kept dry and we right was made foul-weather Burns who to Alfie was introduced crews. ground and other airline Aer Lingus gear for fronts had zippered coats that we designed Together at the velcro strips two-inch-wide flap, good with a velcro — a much ample hood with a chin strap wrists, and an fishermen’s. coat than the French better foul-weather for a they became quite popular Caribbean where It was not one but we finally gave up. number of years, the routing business ventures, as of my profitable through the to the Caribbean had to go from Ireland . So coats Li’l Iolaire crew and and and suffering regu- Iolaire’s Iolaire and raced Stars for a Iolaire Kid had a set of Ratsey sails delivered. had a set of Ratsey Kid eeping a dry tail without wearing foul-weather wearing without tail a dry eeping

trousers has been a difficult but often a suc- difficult but has been a trousers think that wouldn’t operation. Some cessful

Dry Tails Dry Ratsey’s head sailmaker bent on the sails and went Joe Lawrence sold the He became the top Star Fast-forward to l954 when I When he discovered I was the grandson of North In the late 1950s and into the ’70s, Ulmer made light A few years after buying Needless to say, the light foul-weather gear eventu- What to do? I had noticed, when sailing in the Saintes and

“No problem,” he said, and

K the crew of The story of how off to a store in Guadeloupe that catered to the fisher- men. I bought eight of their long, yellow foul-weather coats, not very fashionable but available and the price for a trial sail with Joe to make sure everything was correct. The young apprentice accompanying the head sailmaker was Charlie “Butch” Ulmer, father of the Charlie Ulmer who later was head of Ulmer Kolius sails. The senior Ulmer progressed through the ranks at Ratsey’s to the point that he became head cutter, and made enough money to buy and race Star class boats quite extensively. sailor, won the North Atlantic Star Championship and moved it to western Long Island Sound in 1942. was hired as paid hand on Huey Long’s beautiful, Abeking & Rassmussen- designed and built, 53-foot black yawl. The yawl’s skip- per got fired a month later, and I became skipper (with no increase in wages). As skipper, I had a lot of deal- ings with Charlie Ulmer who had by then split with Ratsey and had his own sailmaking business. He continued to race Stars. Atlantic Star Committee Chairman Joe Lawrence, he took me under his wing and, until his dying day, helped me in any way he could. foul-weather gear with a smock top, great in the warm weather of the SORC and the Caribbean, but not too good up north in cold weather. ally lost its waterproofness and had to be replaced, which we periodically did until the mid-1970s when Ulmer stopped making foul-weather gear. Guadeloupe, the French islands’ fishermen wearing long, yellow foul-weather coats. Not jackets, few years, then became Race Committee Chairman of the North Atlantic Star Championships which were held in the Great South Bay, as the Great South Bay Star sailors seemed to be the best and won the cham- pionships year after year — until Skip Etchells showed up on the scene. charter parties had dry tails without wearing foul- weather trousers. larly from a wet tail, I had a bright idea. I asked Charlie if, the next time they were cutting out a bunch of foul-weather gear smocks, he would cut eight tops extra long to reach down to the knees.

achieved dry tails starts in Great South Bay, Long tails starts in Great South achieved dry when Joe early years of the last century Island, in the gaff-rigged of the Gil Smith 39-foot Lawrence, owner centerboard sloop A Tale of of Tale A this is an issue when sailing in the Caribbean, but on Caribbean, sailing in the an issue when this is overnight passage, a rough day or during a squally your and sea off to keep the rain want you’ll definitely are just too But foul-weather trousers nether regions. for the tropics. hot and cumbersome NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 S S Downloadable waypoints Up-do-date, livelyandrelevanttext Aerial andsceniccolorphotography Full Colorsketchcharts Check outthefeaturesthatmakethem “Have yougotthelatestVenezuelaguideyet?” t t the Caribbean'sbestsellers! CHRIS DOYLE'SGUIDES Read inNextMonth’s . . akgsPc pcl:+(599)553-3850/(590)690-222473 Packages Pick–upcall: M & updatesonthewebat M A Cruiser’s ThoughtforChristmas n.0135021 -al [email protected] 001-3057042314E-mail: Int. a a ‘Walking thePlank’in Guatemala All theinfoyouneedifareplanningacruise! www.doyleguides.com Antigua to theAzoresUnderSail a a r r t t e e n n … andmore! and deliver allyour goods. All you neediscontactustofastpickup Documentsetc. Freight, Overnight Packages, Express packagesanddocuments, same day, collect anddeliver doortolocalthe offer thenew system delivery Martin, St. Maarten/ the DutchandFrench sideofSt. fast andefficientCOURIERSERVICES to CIRExpress give newspapers etc... magazines, pallets, parcels, If you need totransport Compass : in Focus Grenadines Southern Economics andHistory andreturnedtoSt.Vincentwork in thePublicService. good senseprevailed andIacceptedtheBursary,obtained aBA(Hons)Degreein Campus inBarbados, myfirstreactionwastoturndownthe offer.However,Iguess Bursary topursueuniversity studiesattheUniversityof WestIndies’CaveHill sue studiesintourism wereunsuccessful.WhenIwasawarded aCanadianAid tion bysuccessiveadministrations,and my attemptstoobtainascholarshippur- ondary schooldays.Unfortunately,atthat time,tourismwaspaidverylittleatten- off eitherone,butPalmisrecommended onlyasadaystop. can getinformationandpayyourentry fee attheParkOfficeinClifton. meal ortakeascenichike.Ifyouwant to visittheTobagoCaysMarinePark,you shore youcangetgroceries,souvenirsand someboataccessories,havearestaurant and windyattimes,makingtheanchoragebehindNewland’sReefdramatic. On Harbour: cruisingguidesgivedetaileddirections.UnionIslandcanbeverysunny on thenavigationalmarkersandoneeyechartwhenenteringClifton or clearingoutofSt.Vincent&theGrenadineswaters.Makesuretokeepone eye the SouthernGrenadines’hub,whichcatersforyachtsandothervesselsentering meal atoneoftheisland’scolourfulrestaurants. After takingintheeagle’s-eyeviewofTobagoCays,stopforacolddrinkor a days. BesuretovisitthelittlemuseumnextCatholicchurchonhilltop. cruiseship days,SalineBayisanideaget-awayspot,perfecttohangoutfor few on theislandareSaltWhistleBay(whichcanbecrowded)andSalineBay.Onnon- ple. Theislandhasnoairportandisonlyaccessiblebyboat.bestanchorages island hasapopulationofapproximately275,andtheyaregenerallyfriendlypeo- Charlestown willassistyou.Canouan’smainattractionisitspeacefulbeaches. can bereachedat(784)458-8100.Foranymoreinformation,thetourismbureau in and otherbasicessentials.Theislandhasoneclinicapolicestation. shoals. Itsadvisedthatyouanchormoretothenortheastsideofharbour. enter betweentheredandgreenmarkersbecauseharbourhassomedangerous Canouan orUnionIsland. nesses oftheSouthernGrenadinespeople. into islandlifefromtheirpersonalhistory.Tourismandseafaringarethekeybusi- just enjoythenaturalenvironmentandminglewithlocalswhowillgiveyouinsight law statesthatalljet-skiingisprohibited.Insteadofsuchnoisy“thrillsandspills”, leaving noexcusefornotexperiencingtheGrenadinesattheirbest.However, Packages canbeorganized:eachislandhastouroperatorsanddivecompanies, clear waterfeaturessomeofthebestdiving,snorkelingandsailinginCaribbean. each smallislandisonecommunity. Grenadines arefamousforseafood,andtherestaurantseasytofind,because the world-classresortssuchasPetitSt.Vincent,PalmIslandandRaffles.The SVG Air,MustiqueAirways,GrenadineAirwaysandTransIslandAir(TIA). through theabove-mentionedcountriesandflywithair-chartercompaniessuchas Rico, Barbados,GrenadaandTrinidad.Theairportsaresmall,soyoumustgo by sea.ThemostoftenusedgatewaystotheseareSt.Vincent,Lucia,Puerto Union IslandandPalmareaccessiblebyair;theotherscanbereachedonly Tourism, VeraAnnBrereton,andcurrentDirectorofGrenadinesAffairs,EdwinSnagg. To getthefacts,IinterviewedSt.Vincent&Grenadines’formerDirectorof Island, PalmPetitSt.VincentandtheTobagoCays—havedrawnmyinterest. Union Island’sCliftonHarbouristheyachtinghubofSVG’sSouthernGrenadines Miss Brereton:Ihavealwaysbeenfascinated bythefieldoftourismsincemysec- Amal: AsaVincentian,whathasinspired youtoventureintothetourismfield? The Interviews:VeraAnnBrereton,former DirectorofTourism Palm IslandandPetitSt.Vincent(PSV)are privateresortislands.Youcananchor Just aboutfourandahalfmilesfromMayreauisUnionIsland.Island is Moving onabittothesouth,ninemilesbelowCanouanisMayreau.Thelittle Canouan hassmallshopswhereyoucangetgroceries,thelatestnewsonisland When enteringCanouan,thefavourableanchorageisCharlestown.Becarefuland Sailors arrivinginSVGwatersfromanothercountrycanclearCustomsat Do enjoythevariousbeachesandTobagoCaysMarinePark.Ourprecious Shoreside accommodationsincludefriendlyguesthouses,apartments,villasand Of thesouthernmostislandsofSt.Vincent&Grenadines,onlyCanouan, The Isles First, letmegiveyousomeinformationaboutSt.Vincent’sSouthernGrenadines. Recent developmentsintheSouthernGrenadines—Canouan,Mayreau,Union by AmalThomas —Continued onnextpage —Continued NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 101112 122013 1323 14 1415 15 (new) 1505 16 1553 17 1639 18 1725 19 1811 20 1858 21 1949 22 2044 23 2145 24 2250 25 2356 26 000027 0100 28 0159 29 (full) 0253 30 0341 31 0425 0507 0548 VHF: 16 CARRIACOU E-mail: [email protected] Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft 50-ton hoist, Water Fuel Dock, or labour available Do it yourself Mini - Marina Chandlery New environmentally friendly haulout friendly haulout New environmentally ● ● ● ● ● ● 212223 2108 24 2203 25 2303 26 000027 0007 28 0000 29 (full) 0114 30 0219 31 0320 0415 December 2007 0504 1234 0549 5 0631 6 0711 7 0751 8 0832 9 0914 0959 1047 1138 FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE Call sign: “Golf Sierra” VHF channel 16 at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 supplies of OF THE MOON For further information call Glenn Clement or For further information call Glenn Clement NOVEMBER & DECEMBER Welcomes you to Petite Martinique B & C FUELS A stepping stone as you ENTERPRISE Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. November 2007 DATE1 TIME 234 0533 5 0623 6 0709 7 0752 8 0833 9 0912 10 0952 11 1033 12 1117 120213 1251 14 1342 15 (new) 1434 16 1527 17 1618 18 1708 19 1756 20 1843 1929 2017 passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy the time of the meridian Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows help you calculate the tides. passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. Fair tides! TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT YACHT BAY TYRREL Getting the Grenadines’ message at one of Mayreau’s friendly bar/restaurants DEREK BERRY Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay www.scubamax.com • Air-Fills at PADI 5 * Standard [email protected] • Scuba and Snorkel Gear Rental • Special Group Prices for Sailors & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor • • Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough, • Daily dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm or individually Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! Your Expert Guide to Carriacou’s Best Diving Amal: What group or body is there to address the requirements of the sailing indus- Amal: What group or body is of my second stint as Director of Tourism, I estab- Miss Brereton: Before the end from tourism in the Amal: What is the greatest achievement being experienced of income generation and an Miss Brereton: It is, perhaps, a more sustainable form Affairs The Interviews: Edwin Snagg, Director of Grenadines in the Southern Grenadines. Amal: This interview is geared towards tourism issues Grenadines! Mr. Snagg: Okay — there’s a lot going on in the Southern affairs? Amal: What inspired you to get involved in Southern Grenadines I always wanted to give Mr. Snagg: Well, as a person growing up in the Grenadines, your management? Amal: How have the Southern Grenadines benefited from through improvement in Mr. Snagg: The Southern Grenadines have benefited in the Southern Grenadines? Amal: What is being done to control yacht harassment has stepped up; there are Mr. Snagg: Well, let me say that the level of police work marina project at Ashton, Amal: What plans are in place to deal with the abandoned abandoned marina does not Mr. Snagg: The mangroves have been destroyed, but the to attend programs Amal: Are there any plans for youths in the Southern Grenadines alongside the Ministry of Mr. Snagg: There is training done by various ministries involved in protecting the There are also various non-governmental groups The Southern Grenadines have the potential to transform the country’s tourism I never lost my interest in tourism and continued my efforts to seek assistance to to seek assistance my efforts and continued in tourism lost my interest I never you ever faced is the greatest challenge Director of Tourism, what Amal: As a former author- getting the government financial The greatest challenge is Miss Brereton: in the Southern Grenadines? you think is the biggest problem Amal: What do the most critical issues facing the yachting industry Miss Brereton: I believe that TRAINING INSTRUCTOR try in the Southern Grenadines? had begun to look at the vari- lished a Marine Tourism Task Force [in 2002] which ous issues affecting the yachting industry in SVG. Southern Grenadines? water and education. improved standard of living, including housing, roads, electricity, downs, and many times I have service back to the public. It’s not easy, with ups and to question myself to push forward. sites, a transforma- social services, environmental areas such as garbage-disposal school on Union Island tion of the Clifton Harbour waterfront, and a secondary teachers and students from which was reconstructed with dormitories to house place to stay. In general, the Mayreau and Canouan who cannot otherwise get a of this country. Grenadines are part of the political and social landscape Park and a new vessel for now seven Rangers employed at the Tobago Cays Marine boards and a tourist patrol is part of the step-up process. There are committee tour guides and tourist board bureau where information can be obtained. Also, the Grenadines. work together to control the harassment in the Southern Union Island, which can pose a threat to the environment? causeway] for the water to flow really pose any hazard. There’s a hole opened up [in the the site to good use. In doing in and out. There are talks in the pipeline on ways to put to the environmental laws. this, it will be able to provide service, but we must stick to gain knowledge in the marine industry? Program (Youth Empowerment Tourism. It’s a big industry. Also involved are the YES board and Customs. Scheme) under the Ministry of Education, the tourist Development Organisation), Grenadines, such as MEDO (Mayreau Environmental Archaeological Group and the the 4H Club, the Union Island Ecological Group, the Project is co-ordinat- Sustainable Grenadines Project. The Sustainable Grenadines ing programs between the countries of St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Grenada, to study eco-tourism in the Grenadines as a whole. I would like to say that the Union Island Tourist Board is doing a great job with environmental concerns. product. It’s like a hub. There is development of Canouan to become a jet- port soon, and also a beautification programme for the island. There are talks about having a marina on Canouan. I think the Grenadines on the whole will be blooming in the next ten years. pursue post-graduate studies in this field. After many disappointments, I entered many disappointments, this field. After studies in post-graduate pursue Tourism studies in post-graduate to pursue in 1977 of Surrey the University the coun- appointed and later being in 1978, to St. Vincent returning Management, in 1981. of Tourism local Director try’s first be made to now, what changes would And if you had the post on a daily basis? improve the situation? development, of government are in the what the responsibilities ities to understand commit- and the need for greater financial and marketing of tourism, management to impress the today, I would seek the post of Director of Tourism ment. If I held by experi- Tourism Authority that is staffed structured National need for a properly and properly financed. trained personnel enced and professionally of visitor security, including crime and harassment, and in SVG today are the issues procedures for clearing yachts in and out of SVG waters. user-friendly systems and —Continued page from previous NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Neilson GomesReflectsonChangingTimes Boat-Building Pomeroon River Mist town ofCharity,ishis30-year-oldlovingly-cared-foraluminumspeedboat, to hissmalljettyontheothersideofriver,facing“CapitalPomeroon”, 1960s vintage,standsreadytopurrintolifeatthetouchofabutton.Outside,moored done by“earandsight”.Firstthekeelwaslaidonblocksundernearbymangotrees. brought tothembyaclientwhowantedspecificfeaturesinthedesign.Everything was built, forexample,byAprilandhissons,usemoregreenheartnowtheplanking. whole lengthofthehull.Thiswouldmakeforastrongerboat.Somelargerboats of knotsandworksbeautifullywithsawsplanes,thelongplankswouldrun the 60-foot-long planks.Thiswasideal.Asidefromthefactthatsilverballiisvirtually free wood. Thehardergreenheartwasusedforkeels.Atthetime,builderscouldeasily get for planking,fastenedwithgalvanizedironnailstoframesofmoraandothertypes The largesthebuiltwasa44-footer. range onaverageandallofthemwere“engineboats”forcoastaltradingfishing. market. Ahelpful,considerateman,Gomesbuiltmainlysmallercraftinthe40-foot ocean-going woodenfreightersintheislandshasbeenonsteadydeclinesincethen. They couldcarrymorecargo,faster,andonadependableschedule.Theuseoflarge of thesails“schoonertrade”.Steel-hulledfreighterswereboughtinEurope. the largerschoonersalsocarriedpassengers,Gomesrelated. islands, carryingrice,fruitsandvegetables,wallabapolesothercargo.Someof masted vesselspliedbetweenBarbados,BritishGuianaandtheEasternCaribbean working fishingschoonersofthenortheasternUnitedStatesandCanada.Thetwo- April andFiedtkoufamiliesatSupenaamstilloperatemajoryards. Other craftsmenwerefromtheGonsalvesandVanSlutymanfamilies,while schooners fromthe1940sto1960s,suchas before that.Ashetoldme,onewasJoeStoll,whoseyardbuiltlargetwo-masted and evenfartherafield. wooden craftthatcarriedcargoandpassengersthroughouttheEasternCaribbean outboards. Buthewasonceaboatbuilderinanarearenownedforbuildingsturdy Beside it,anequallyseldom-heard,approximately50-horsepowerForceengine,of “Then yousetthemiddlerib,bowribandstembow.Whengotthem Gomes, likemostotherboatbuildersinthearea,neverreferredtoblueprints,unless Typical ofallPomeroonboatbuilders,heusedthebrown-and-yellowsilverballiwood The majorityofboatsfromtheGomesfamilybusinesshavebeenforhome By thetimeGomesgotintotrade,economicrealitieshadtakenwindout These schooners,likethosebuiltintheGrenadines,werebasicallymodeledon He startedinthe1970s.Buttherewereseveralskilledshipwrightsarealong One ofGomes’retirementhobbiesisnowpreservingandrepairingclassicold I Rodney Bay,St.Lucia . Itispowered,theretireepointsoutproudly,bya20-horsepowerChrysler. tained 1968Chrysler35-horsepoweroutboardengineyetanotherwipe-down. bank ofthePomeroonRiverinGuyana,NeilsonGomesgiveshisimmaculately-main- n theworkshopinbottomflatofhisstatelytwo-storiedwoodenhouseonwest z Tel: ( 758 Timothy H ) 452 0299 Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope CARIBBEAN MARITIMEHISTORY Johnson Hardware Ltd. and the FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE z Anna Marie Fax: Pearly

( 758 (2) FARIA NORMAN . by NormanFaria ) on thebanksofPomeroonRiver Left: Woodenvesselsarestillbuiltandrepaired also aproudcollectorofclassicoutboardengines Above: GuyaneseboatbuilderNeilsonGomesis have todo.Hefeelshe’sdonehislittlepartandthefuturelooksbrightforeveryone. itor, hesmilesandsaysthepresentnextgenerationswillhavetodowhatthey across theriverfromGomes’shomeaboutfiveyearsago. keted. AschoonerwasorderedbyanAmericanandbuiltafewhundredmetres en boataficionadosinNorthAmericaandEuropeiftheirproductsareproperlymar- other environment-friendlyfuels. He pointedtothealuminumandfiberglass“powerboats”alreadyusingethanol lower-maintenance materialsandpowersystemswillundoubtedlybecomeavailable. river transport.AsGuyana’seconomycontinuestoimprove,betterfuel-efficientand optimistic. Withthecountry’slargecoastalandriverainareas,heseesaneedfor made diesel-poweredoutboardavailableinGuyanaand,Gomesbelieves,Brazil. kerosene andthenewbio-fuels,neednotbeexpensivetorun.ThereisalsoaChinese- there shouldbeachoice.Outboards,withthecomingonlineofmodelsadaptedtouse 40-footers maybeseentopoweredbytwolargeoutboardsattheback.Gomesfeels many inboarddieselenginesareusedinsmallworkingboatsGuyana.Evenlarge Guyana, aselsewhere,mayhavetendedtostayawayfromahigh-pricedengine.” Chrysler wasalsoboughtintheearly1990sbyMercuryOutboards.Fishermen were makingacheaperbrand.IbelievetheyhadbranchesinLatinAmerica. Mariner, whichisalsomadebyYamaha. Ole Evinrude)in1909.Today,almosteveryoutboardGuyanaisaYamahaor in theUS,wherefirstpracticaloutboardwasdeveloped(byNorwegian-American Chrysler outboardsfromtheUS. the PomeroonareaforCentralGarageinGeorgetownwhichimported(whatelse?) more money,thoughthereareslightlyhigherfuelcosts. on themanyriversinformerBritishcolony.Morepassengersatripmeans day economicsarereadilyapparentinthewiderandlarger“speedboats”(water-taxis) English-speaking countryhavechangedlittleovertheyears.Thesmallerrunabouts along withresorcinol,butwehavetowatchcostsandpassthemonthecustomer.” not againstit(useofmoremodernmaterials).InfactIusesomeepoxyresinforgluing, is oil.Thefiberglassandresinwouldalsohavetobeimported,Gomesremindsyou.”I’m but theyareoil-basedproductssostillhavetocomefromanon-renewablesource,which make moneyfromthem.Itistruethatusingfiberglassandresinkindertotheforests and, withgoodmaintenance,theboatscouldlastquitelongenoughforownersto fiberglass hullsmaylastlonger,thereisthecostfactor.Itstillcheapertobuildinwood carried outbyshipwrightsthroughouttheEasternCaribbean. helper workingonrepairstoa30-footfishingboat.Itisbasicallythesamemethod on theoutsidetogetshape,”saysGomesaswewatchhissonRoystonanda up, youplacetheribbands(longlengthsofflexiblewood)oninsideandbends 452 0311 Picking afewmangoesfromhisextensivefruitorchards(anotherhobby)forvis- Traditional Guyanesewoodenboat-builderscouldalsogetsomeordersfromwood- What ofthefutureboat-buildingandmarinetradesinGuyana?Gomesis Strangely, despitethelowerfuelandmaintenancecostsinlongrun,nottoo Gomes explains:“Atthattime,YamahaandotherAsianoutboardmanufacturers Why didthatbrandstopsellinginGuyana?Afterall,theyhadagoodreputation Before boatbuilding,Neilsonwasacivilservant.Healsotherepresentativein Basically, thehullshapesofcoastalandriverainboatsinSouthAmerica’sonly There’s stillbusinessforwoodenboat-buildinginthePomeroon,reckonsGomes.While Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners z e-mail: [email protected] outboard enginesmeant Hence, theadventofcheaper to suitlocaleconomicchanges. Vincent andBarbados. vegetables betweenSt. which oncecarriedfruitsand larger sizessuchasthose edge calledthechine),evenin flat bottomsmeetingatan chine” (thatis,flatsidesand wrights alsomake“hard now, butGuyaneseship- round-bottom hullsaremade ence, includingDutch.Mainly hulls reflectEuropeaninflu- Amerindian canoe.Thelarger ing theiroriginsinthe are relativelynarrow,reflect- changes influencedbyevery- additional stress. to bebetterreinforcedtake sterns becamewiderandhad where enginesareplaced.The changes tothesternsection Local designvariationsoccur Boat-building cultural Houseware & Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 Much to our surprise, even the peaceful beaches of surprise, even the peaceful Much to our planned an east-bound transatlantic This year we just south of east, so The forecast promised winds would head away from Los Testigos’ Breakthrough Bay close-hauled. Anywhere in the Caribbean chain that we could point would become our destination. But equatorial current still kept its influence and the wind was not as helpful as we hoped. And the autopi- lot wasn’t going to let us off so easily; it finally failed completely just after midnight on our second night out. After that we were hand steering, and found our- selves in increasingly choppy seas. So we were a weary couple when we arrived in Guadeloupe, 52 hours out of Los Testigos. At least we have plenty of time in hand to prepare for the transatlantic! the supermarket was unbelievably busy; there was there busy; unbelievably was supermarket the milling amongst the of poverty no evidence certainly in were dressed many of whom of shoppers crowds was at buy-in our final alcoholic However, party gear. back transported boxed, completed, last successfully fuel on board. The stowed and eventually to the dock cost filled our tanks with minimum and water boats motor-sailed fuss. On Good Friday we and minimum tiny islands of Los Testigos. upwind to the mood. had taken on the Easter Holiday Los Testigos Powerboats ashore on the beach. There were campers pirogues and overladen local from the mainland much good here and there with dashed about music and noise. humour, laughter, to pick up two extra back to the UK and had arranged early June. So, we would crewmembers in Antigua in In past years, leaving need to make our way north. our way eastward, motor- Venezuela, we had bashed from Los Testigos — sailing against wind and current We hadn’t enjoyed once to Grenada, once to Trinidad. Venezuela, we were it either time! This time, leaving determined to sail. had been working so we were optimistic. The autopilot worrying about it. We had well that we had given up but had decided that we clearance to Martinique and decid- Compass excellent anchored at by Mary Robinson After Puerto la Cruz we followed a suggestion from After Puerto la Cruz we followed This wasn’t a particularly good idea because we On a farewell cruise of Venezuela, Skybird Chimana Segunda, ‘a beautiful anchorage with some snorkelling and a good beach restaurant ashore’ Morro” complex. This takes us for a couple of miles This takes us for a couple Morro” complex. pretty little lined with marinas, and through channels balconies all brightly painted with flats and houses, facilities. most having private mooring over the water; course. From a five-star hotel and a golf There is also peaceful and appears to be the water everything access. One is not aware of relaxed, with free and easy would be behind locked the fact that all these places guards if one were to security gates and armed our way to a quay where approach by road. We made supermarket — we tied up and visited the well-stocked since Porlamar over a our first chance to restock month ago. in an article under “Destinations” islands in the area are steep and beautiful with many anchorages and with amazing, colourful rock forma- tions. There was little evidence of human activity beyond a few fishing camps. As the weather was quiet, there was no breeze to alleviate the effect of the sun’s rays. But for the heat we would liked to have spent longer and to have stayed to explore. However, we had decided to check out of Venezuela before Easter, and so hastened our way back to Porlamar. found that the Venezuelans regard the entire week prior to Easter as a holiday period. The “booze” area of ed to visit El Oculto, “the Hidden Bay”. As promised, ed to visit El Oculto, “the saw more dolphins than as we made our way there we in the Caribbean. The we had seen anywhere else Final Caribbean Season Caribbean Final

a couple of years ago. Everyone was very wel-

fter years of Caribbean cruising, it was time for cruising, it was time fter years of Caribbean a last to the UK. But first, us to head back cruise in Venezuela.

We headed from Isla Blanquilla down to Cayo from Isla Blanquilla down We headed papers were inspected We were surprised that our further west to In previous years we had continued passage down to Isla The next day we made There is a tendency of wind and tide to circulate here From Chimana Segunda we proceeded to Bahia We always enjoy the dinghy trip from the marina

A Our Last Venezuelan Cruise Venezuelan Last Our Herradura, off Isla Tortuga: a horseshoe of sandy Isla Tortuga: a horseshoe Herradura, off ashore: basic are some fishing camps beaches. There hanging under a shacks or shelters with hammocks blows through. They look simple roof while the wind but nowadays not totally in keeping with the situation, Wealthy business- all of them belong to the fishermen. from the mainland to men come in fast powerboats “get-away-from-it- bring their families for a weekend in evidence, their beautiful all”. But fishermen are still against the sun, car- craft, covered over with awnings for their fishing gear. rying multicoloured marker-flags Costa. yet again here by the Guarda and Las Aves. This the archipelagos of Los Roques fight our way back upwind time, not wanting to have to of these remaining later, we abandoned the attractions stopped for an excellent offshore islands. Instead we and anchored overnight in snorkel off Los Palanquinos, tip of Tortuga. Playa Caldera on the northeastern is only a short distance Chimana Segunda, which from the mainland city of Puerto la Cruz. It is a beau- tiful anchorage with some more excellent snorkelling and a good beach restaurant ashore. There are a series of individual tables each in its own little stone enclosure with a pretty thatched awning-roof over it. — fine if you have the place to yourself but not so good if the anchorage should be busy. We made sure that we were not there over a weekend: local people love a day out. The whole bay becomes crammed full of boats, perhaps a couple of hundred or more, mostly small or medium-sized powerboats. They raft up together, music throbs. Small fast ferries bring yet more crowds and the restaurant does a roaring trade. Not until late Sunday night does peace return. Every Monday morning a massive clean-up operation can be observed on the beach and a 20-foot pirogue is piled high taking rubbish away. Redonda Marina in Puerto la Cruz. This year there was plenty of space, largely due to the fact that the fuel dock was closed and marine diesel more or less unobtainable. Marina rates were very reasonable and we were delighted to meet up with a number of local people who had done some invaluable work on Skybird through the maze of waterways that make up the “El coming and greeted us like old friends. I was also able to exchange the last of our American dollars to Bolivars at an even more favourable rate than in Porlamar, on Isla Margarita. Skybird’s NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 silver jackstwistandswirl;largerfishcircle,waiting. overhanging wallsofrustysteel.Hugebankslittle shadow playingtrickswithyoursenses.Dangerously vehicles nowhometoteeminglife.Shaftsoflightand ed portholeyoucanseetheworldwithin.Remainsof to afamilyofzebrafish,andthroughrusted,encrust- ed, vagueshapes.Anoldwinchhousingbecomeshome colour andtexture.Barnacle-clustered,weed-shroud- ly partofthewreck. their oddanglesit’shardnottotelliftheyareactual- Beautiful inflightbuthere,perchedstill,withall prehistoric-seeming birdsaredrabanddustylooking. from thepristinewhitepelicansofmyhome,these present pelicansguardtheirperches.Quitedifferent ken bonesrustingawayintheharshsun.Theever- that arehalfin/halfoutofthewater,raggedbro- from thewaters. with itscharredandrustedbowsectionstarklyrising for some30years.It’sasalutarywarningtoallboats, of thecarferrythathasbeenlyingagainstrocks we hadstoppedatIslaCubaguatodiveonthewreck sible way! wreck andendedwithawreck,butinthenicestpos- Day Another Just But belowthewaterline,abejewelledlandscapeof There issomethingquitedifferentaboutwrecks Sailing southwestfromIsladeMargarita,Venezuela, August 8th,2007,wasadaythatstartedwith THIS CRUISINGLIFE by BillShum goes, ashortsquirtformeandIamreadytocleanit. hole inthecap.Ashortsquirtdowngillsandoffshe rum. Ihaveasmallwaterbottle,halffullofrum,with to pacifyfishanditworkswiththeusualefficiencyof gills. Someonehadputmeontotheideaofusingrum pinning ittothestepandgettingmyfingersintoits before. Buthungerandpridetookover.Ileaptafterit, barbs asIhadneveractuallyhandledoneofthesefish Momentarily Iflashedonthepossibilityofspikesand and slapping,downthestepsintosugarscoop. it aboardslippedoffthehookandstartedslithering was soonrewardedwithanicelittledorado.AsIswung Carrying justenoughspeedformetoletouttheline,I westward forIslaTortugaunderanewmainsail. identify mostofthehordesfisharoundwreck!) The morningbroughtafreshwindandwesailedout (As anewbiediverImustconfesstoaninability —Continued onnextpage —Continued be sashimi! one ofusisgonna fish-face? Prettysoon, Left: Whoyoucallin’ cruising day the endofjustanother happy andrelaxedat Above: Theauthor, NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 . a 47-foot Leopard catamaran After an hour or so they grew bored hour or so they After an at Isla Tortuga. We were almost and At last we rounded the point , cruising the Caribbean before know if he was just funning with us funning with he was just know if to extra height needed the or if he next dive. his mother’s match We were starting swam off. of us and else could pos- if anything to wonder in one day. sibly happen so low-lying it is hard The island is you are almost on it. to see until skipper shut down the Suddenly the to starboard, just motors and veered of a fisherman’s net. missing the end one end with the usual We had seen flag, but his end had stick-and-rag of Styrofoam with no only a chunk above more than an inch showing skipper’s the water. Fortunately the tan- quick reactions saved us getting gled up. of an old into the bay. The wreck provid- catamaran high on the rocks you ed the most efficient warning point the could want. We gave the as respect it warranted (especially accu- the GPS was not 100-percent Somerset Cat, Somerset Cat We dropped anchor and reflected. Given the number of days aboard when the only Bill Shum is an Australian traveller, currently heading through the Panama Canal and westward bound. See more stories from his travels at www.trav- elblog.org/bloggers/unpaidbill rate) and sailed into the pristine waters. A more rate) and sailed into the I’d seen, the hulls of the intense blue than anything other boats appeared blue-coloured, even the under- side of light planes flying over us picked up the colour. The effect is heightened by the contrasting blindingly white stretch of sand that circles the bay. surprise is what I can find to cook, this had been an extraordinary day. aboard his brother Michael’s 47-foot Leopard catama- ran, Left: Below the water, the car ferry wreck at Isla Left: Below the water, the car landscape of color Cubagua becomes a bejeweled and texture Above: www.curacaomarine.com

- Long-term storage. and many other services. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad. Safe dry storage with 24 hours security Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. Curaçao Marine Curaçao New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Email: [email protected] Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 In fact our routine has become quite polished, when polished, become quite our routine has In fact are under- line is back out and we Meanwhile, the we motor- the wind dropped and During the day finished cleaning up Mid-afternoon and I had just An hour or so later we were joined by the reel screams off, the skipper throttles back or luffs back the skipper throttles screams off, the reel the in, someone gets being wound the reel is up. While feet feet, and two two by three ready. It’s big bucket to this I’m going a fish bigger than I ever catch deep. If and get it into (My back-up plan is to try be in trouble. straightaway we apply the rum and the dinghy!) Then clean everything off. I cut it up and in 80 to 100 quite a long haul to wind way again. It’s and with especially if we are underway metres of line, any less line but I have found that with a fish fighting, had any luck. out I haven’t and collecting at seven or eight knots sailed, cruising small tuna. Sashimi tuna two larger dorados and one soy and ginger, served less and dorado, with wasabe, the fish, is one of our than an hour after catching favourite treats. of us were just standing in after another dorado. Three Suddenly a massive shape the cockpit looking around. feet from the yacht a huge rose up beside us. Not 20 launched itself out of the whale, at least 30 feet long, air, turned its pink-edged water, seemed to hang in the Then disappeared. We belly to us and crashed back. to the bow grabbed cameras and raced showed any but only the swirling waters three of us sign of our big friend. The were shak- were totally stunned, my legs seen it ing. I think if the others hadn’t own sens- too, I might have doubted my opportuni- es. Truly a once-in-a-lifetime itself to us. ty, and clearly just showing “Hello”! I’d like to think it was saying a pod of dolphins. These were only six feet or so long and a mottled brown colour. They bumped and jostled with each other, just inches clear of the bows. We lay on the trampoline and watched them. The water was so clear we could see them dive deep, deep down then come spearing up and out of the water. A small baby was keeping up with its mother, shadowing her every move with a telepathic accuracy. When she came out of the water to breathe, the little one would actually “get air”, leaping right out of the water. I don’t —Continued page from previous NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 THAN AMARINA:IT’SHOME! IT’S MUCHMORE Visit ourwebsite:www.sbmarina.bizE-mail:[email protected] Over andoveragainourguestsrefertomarinaastheir“Home”! We monitorVHFchannels16&79A(alpha–Americansystem) a 111-slipmarinaandboatyardwith12acresofdrystoragespace • V Onsite amenitiesandservicesincludeabank/ATM, asupermarket, P.O. 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Full ServiceMarinaFacility Telephone hook-up • • Shower facilities 24 hoursecurity • 16ft channel VHF Ch:16 Y ACHT Fax: 284495-5706 H 284 495-5685 ARBOUR Mérida’s cable-carridewasliterallyaHIGHlight or grababitetoeatdrink. a littlesleep.Westoppedfewtimesenroute,eithertochangedrivers,fillwithfuel Tony andChristookarucksackincasetheydid.It’slongride;wemanagedto get stops onroute.Yvonnetookasandwichinherhandbagcasewegotpeckish,and each, butwehadtoeithertakeourownfoodorbuyitatarestaurantinoneof the tioning, WC,TVandplentyoflegroom.Thefarewastheequivalentninepounds day. It’san18-hourbusridetoMéridabutit’sacomfortablewithaircondi- a 20-minuteride.WeloadedourgearaboardtheMéridabusanddepartedatmid- goes highupPicoEspejo,sowetaxiedbacktodowntownPLCbuyabusticket. the placewedecidedtogo.Friendshadbeenthereandtoldusofcablecarthat doing ourownthing.Mérida,acenturies-oldtownhighintheAndesmountains,was organized toursareavailablefromlocaltouroperators,butwepreferredtheidea of ished, agreatprofessionalachievement. together designingandmakingthenewcovers.Threedayslatertheywereall fin- a materialshop.BackonboardYvonnegotoutthesewingmachineandweall got make goodcoverstoprotectthem,soafterashorttaxirideintotownwesearched for have beenpromisingourselvesforayearnow.Havingpurchasedthem,wewanted to took aberthatTMOmarina.AsinCumaná,themarinastaffwerehelpfulandfriendly. trips aroundtown.Cumanáhasagreatmarket. ping mallandcinema.Busestaxisareavailableoutsideforthoseexploratory restaurants. Thisisaquaintbutcharmingmarinaalongsidelargemodernshop- tricity andwater),avoucherforfreerumpunchatanyoneofthelocalbarsor for theelectric,gaveusourbillaboutUS$6night(whichincludedelec- dockmaster werethere,pleasedtoseeusasifweoldfriends.Theylentaplug staff weretherewaitingforusattheslip. from thestaffatmarina.Aftercallingmarinatoannounceourintentions Cumanagoto. Thesceneryalongthiscoastwaswarmandinviting,asourwelcome places togoandsee,nearfar. foot afterdark.Don’tletthisputyouoffcominghere,though.Thereareplentyof rio security problems.Unfortunately,thesegoodmarinasaresituatedalongsidea life sofararehappytoseeusandgivehelporadviceasnecessarywe’vehadno country orpeoples’opinions.Neverthelessthepeoplewehavemetfromallwalksof comment onthepoliticsofcountry—Idon’thaveanyotherexperience they wouldhavetodrink water.Butwehadaniceevening. red andoneofwhite wine,sowehadthat.Ifanyonecamein foradrinkafterthat, was tough,andthey hadnobeerorspirits,notevenrum.They didhaveabottleof tried togoupmarket bygivingsmallportionsinahighlydecorated state,thesteak They hadagoodmenu andthepriceslookedreasonable.Unfortunately theowners for awalk.Thateveningitrainedhardso wedecidedtoeatinthe breakfast wewentbacktoourroom,unpacked andhadashortsiestabeforegoing outside forsomebreakfast. loo, TV,wardrobeandbed;afan,too.We leftourbagsatreceptionandtookawalk upstairs oppositeeachother;nottheheight ofluxurybutwehadensuiteshowerand took usrighttotheguest-housedoor,so weunloadedourbagsandcheckedin. posada The busarrivedinMéridaterminal about 8:00 The followingWednesdaywetookacabfromthemarinatobusterminal,about After afewdayswelookedintotheideaofbackpackingsomewhereinland.Yes, After twoorthreedays, After mooringup,wewenttotheofficeintroduceourselves.Themanagerand Our firstprioritywastobuyanewdinghy,somethingbothweandthe In facteveryone,eveninthecrowdedmarinas,hasbeenverypleasant.Iwon’t Mérida lookedanimpressivetownsowe wereeagertodosomeexploring.After The M renowned forsecurityproblems.Eventhelocalpeoplewon’ttravelthisareaon posada Venezuela — , whichwehadpreviouslybookedfortwo nightsviatheinternet.Thedriver We firstmadelandfallinCumaná,andspentacoupleofnightsMarina aboard y wifeYvonneandIaboard had alovelyplant-linedentrance,really attractive.Ourroomswere S/V Waylander, Our Andes ALL ASHORE… Chaser by PhilChapman and arrived inmainlandVenezuelaattheendofAugust. Waylander Chaser II, along withourfriendsTonyandChris moved ontoPuertoLaCruz(PLC),and AM , sowegrabbedacabtoour —Continued onnextpage —Continued posada Waylanders restaurant. bar- NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 , but soon after Waylanders . We now wanted to stay another two posada in Mérida. We found one that looked attractive overlooking the park in Mérida. We found one that looked attractive overlooking posadas We had asked the girl in the restaurant what the zoo was like in Mérida. She said We had asked the girl in the restaurant what the zoo they’re not out to rip you Like many places we’ve seen so far here in Venezuela, We had only booked two nights in our Next day we went for a ride in the cable car. Yvonne wasn’t looking forward to this Next day we went for a ride in the cable car. Yvonne wasn’t and once we got to We were lucky with the weather. The view was awesome, The ride down was equally breathtaking as the town of Mérida came into view through So we all had a good day. Back in our rooms we peeled off our layers of clothing, Mérida is a beautiful, comparatively wealthy, university town with shopping cen- Tomorrow we go to Los Llanos: the Savannahs. This area is completely the oppo- “Look at these!” he said, pulling up his jeans to show the quality of the leather. I up his jeans to show the quality of the leather. “Look at these!” he said, pulling Next day, we booked for the coming Sunday on the Teleférico, the world’s longest and world’s longest Teleférico, the Sunday on the for the coming we booked Next day, around town exploring Mérida, shopping intervening couple of days We spent the a pair of real shops. I knew Tony fancied ways to look at the We went our separate A visit to the ‘for kids only’ zoo was an unexpected treat it was okay, but really only for kids. We had a day to spare and we like kid stuff, so it was okay, but really only for kids. We had a day to strawberries, paid the 35- we took a cab to the zoo and, after a pot of cream and really surprised. The ani- pence entrance fee. What a beautiful zoo it was — we were caged, but we, and all the mals were all in good condition. Yeah, I know they were telescopes. You could have children, could see them without the aid of high-powered brave enough, but there was touched the lions, monkeys and jaguars if you were got told off once or twice. security there to stop you putting your hands in. We couldn’t afford to go, the off. I’m sure they could charge a lot more but then people That is, I suppose, socialism, animals would then suffer and the zoo would close. everywhere: ‘“Socialism, which is blatantly advertised on walls and buildings Patriotism or Death!” brero he nearly fell off the balcony laughing. “Kids”, we were called by the ladies. We brero he nearly fell off the balcony laughing. “Kids”, we had bought ponchos as well! one — she doesn’t like heights at the best of times and she won’t even go in a glass one — she doesn’t like heights at the best of times and shakily she boarded, provid- lift in a shopping mall. But Tony talked her round and been on any substantial cable ing she could have a fur hat. It’s the first time we had the base station there are four car. It takes 30 people seated and ten standing. After other stations to the top at over 14,000 feet. began to enjoy it, but it was Station Three Yvonne managed to grab a view too and getting colder. After reaching the top we went outside the station for a walk around. I have never gotten so cold so quickly. Within ten minutes my hands were really hurting, my hair was literally frozen, and it was surprising how breathless you became at that altitude. Needless to say we didn’t hang around too long out there. I would have guessed the temperature to be minus 20. It was very ccccold!! the clouds. By this time Yvonne had gotten over the fear of heights and really enjoyed the trip. The cable car setup is quite a feat of engineering. Each station is a major struc- ture and getting materials to each site must have been an enormous task. boots, etcetera, and chilled out for a while before going out for our evening meal. Mérida is a tourist area, so prices are correspondingly higher than some other areas, but for us Europeans it is still very reasonable. Most of the tourists are Venezuelan, but there are a lot of Europeans too. tres good by any standard. The scenery is breathtaking and the people are friendly. One evening a Venezuelan family came up to Yvonne and me. The daughter, maybe 12 or 13 years old, asked us very nervously in the best schoolgirl English she could manage, if her mother could take a photo of her and her brother standing with us. I think it was because we are English, a rarish sight for them, and comparatively tall. Whatever the reason, that typifies the Venezuelan people we have met in the outer areas, untouched by too many foreigners, just inquisitive, friendly and help- ful. The cynics may say check your pockets after, but it is no more necessary here than in any other large town in the world. site of where we are now in Mérida. It’s low-lying and flat, with many rivers and canals which are now flooded as a result of the winter rains, so the whole area is wet underfoot, but it is hot. nights but our landlady told us she was full, so we had to move on. There are plen- nights but our landlady told us she was full, so we had ty of available, so we asked if we and cable-car area to the mountains. They had rooms on the top floor — they had could look over the rooms first. We chose the two rooms was quite basic: no TV, no the best view and hammocks on the balcony. The room didn’t). There was a bed, a fans, no wardrobe (we did have a shelf; Tony and Chris we’re backpackers now! shower, WC, and a nice view. We can put up with that, then donned my hat and told him how stupid he was buying cowboy boots just for him how stupid he was buying cowboy boots just then donned my hat and told When he looked round at me in my John Wayne som- our coming horse-riding trip. we got in Tony knocked on our door. we got in Tony knocked on highest cable car. There were many tour operators in town offering trips to various offering trips in town tour operators were many cable car. There highest the mari- back in met some friends well. Chris had inland as further other attractions so we very worthwhile, was Llanos (the Savannahs) a visit to Los told her that na who The trip morning. leaving Monday Savannahs trip to The a four-day also booked our guide for Landcruiser), our driver and (a new 4x4 Toyota included our transport all meals and for three nights and It also included our accommodation the four days. that next time. horse riding — but more on as boat trips, safari trip and drinks, as well a dozen pots products. Tony sampled half out some local hand-made and checking a bucket too, they were delicious, so I tried and cream. He said of local strawberries and he was right! get back to our hat — I was sure he’d boots, so I bought a cowboy leather cowboy later than the boots. We got back a little rooms with new —Continued page from previous NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 unblinking frogssatonhalfsubmergedlilypads. three largelilyponds,alldifferentdesignsandcontainingfishfrogspawn.Large feet ofpathwaysothatwewerealwaysenclosedinatropicalparadise. look intotheneardistanceandseeadifferentviewbutnevermorethanabout15 It isaroundtenacreswithzigzagpathswindingthroughit.Atanytimewecould they hadnowater! a wonderfulsight,itbeinglunchtime.However,wasshut,exceptionally,because The firstthingwesawasapproachedtheentrancewasavegetarianrestaurant, extra charge.Thebusesseemtoleaveatregularintervalsandarealittlecheaper. waits untilitisfullbeforegoesanywhereandwilldetourwhileonthewayforan tem butismorefar-reaching.OneofthedifferencesbetweentwothatTC are involvedfromthestartofanyjourney. duce ustothedriver.Thismeans,ofcourse,thatdriverandallpassengers tion. Or,ifweareonthewrongTC,theyaccompanyustorightoneandintro- they makeittheirpersonalquesttotelluswhenwehavearrivedatourdestina- ure intellinguswhetherwe’reontherightbusornot.Ifweare passengers inMartiniquealwaysenquireafterourdestinationandtakegreatpleas- communal Martinique wesetofftoseetheJardindeBalata. Botanical Garden(s) The palmgrovecontainsaround25differentspeciesoftreeandthereare The gardentookourbreathawayfromthemomentwesteppedontopremises. We weredroppedoffattheJardindeBalatajustasheavensopenedyetagain. The TCisacheaptransportsystemwhichstandsalongsidethenormalbussys- We choseawetday—notdifficultintherainyseasonandhoppedinto True toourdecisionvisitbotanicalgardensaroundtheworld,whilein by LornaRudkin (TC) intheisland’scapital,FortdeFrance.Thedriversandourfellow- of Martinique ALL ASHORE… • gasstation • tel+fax+internet • water/ice/laundry • deepwaterstern-toberth gas station:(+)596661730 POINTE DUBOUT, MARTINIQUE RESTAURANT e-mail: [email protected] Open 7/7VHF:16/68 CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Tel: (+)596660545 DOCK, BAR 14˚33N -61˚03W & taxi Fort deFrance. So wefoundabusstop,waitedforhalfanhourTCandretracedourjourney to there alldaywithnovisitorsandwecouldn’tblamethemfordecidingtocloseearly. We arrivedataveryshutestablishmentanddecidedthatthestaffmusthave sat we’d havealookatthegardenuproadanyway,whichwouldn’tcloseuntil5:00 at afeederhangingfromtreethebackofbuilding. and outattheotherside,havingmadeadetouroverheadofwaitress,to get vegetarians who,aswellnoteatingmeat,didn’teveneatfish. bottle ofwineafterthechefhadbeenconsultedaboutwhathecouldproducefor comfortable chairswithexoticflowersoneachtable.Wedecideditwastimefora trees andahugejasminebush.Stillitrainedbutwewereunderroofedareain and seatedonaterracelookingoutontogardencontainingcalabashmango the ticketdeskdirectedustoanearbyrestaurantdownroad. away. Bynowitwas2:00 believing wewereonfoot.WeeventuallyfoundL’HabitationAnseLatoucheaboutamile the variousexhibits. tumes andafilm.Eventually,thecuratorreturnedgaveusdetaileddescriptionof exhibition ofthe2007MartiniqueCarnival,whichincludedstrangeandfantasticcos- a mostpleasanthourfollowingthelifeandtimesofGauguin,togetherwithtemporary ter ofthecurator,accompaniedbyhertwoyoungchildrenandayappingdog.Wespent of lettersandoldphotographs.Weweretheonlyvisitorsgreetedbydaugh- um documentedhislife,especiallythetimeshespentonisland,withpictures,copies Gauguin spentsomemonthsinMartiniquebeforetravellingtothePacificandmuse- in whatfeltlikethemiddleofnowhere,butwesawasignforGauguinMuseum. her tenthyearofsufferingfromAlzheimer’sdisease. break beforegoingbacktoParisresumelookingafterhiswifewho,tragically,wasin tleman, whocouldn’trememberhowmanylanguageshespoke,washavingaweek’s Lebanon beforemovingtoParisattheonsetofLebaneseWar.Thisratherelderlygen- Egypt and,whenlifegotdifficultfornon-MuslimsunderNasser,thefamilyhadgoneto whose fatherwasLebanese-ArmenianandmotherItalian.Hetoldushehadbeenbornin tours inair-conditionedtransport.Ourtravellingcompanion,thistime,wasaFrenchman buses beingusedbythelocalswhiletouristsusuallyconfinethemselvestoorganised eventually, departedforthenorthwestsideofisland. Pointe duBout,wecrossedovertoFortdeFrancebyferry.WehoppedontoaTCand, weather withconstant,andtorrential,rain.Asusual,becausewewereanchoredat would trytovisitL’HabitationAnseLatouche.AgainMartiniquedisplayeditstropical there arefivetypesofhummingbirdinMartiniqueandalltobeseenatBalata. tree onlytoflybackagainmomentslater. ered foramoment,poppedtheirbeaksintotheholes,thenflewawaytonearby treated toflashesofiridescentpurple,greenandpinkasthesebusylittlebirdshov- with curvedbeaks,flewaroundourheadsdesperatetogetatthenectar.Wewere day. Dozensofmaniclittlehummingbirds,somewithlongstraightbeaksand could drinkthesugar-and-watermixtureplacedthereatregularintervalsduring from theselittleholeshummingbirdsandenterprisingyellow-chestedbananaquits ering theterrace.Thecentreofeachflowerlookedliketopapepperpotand around thebottomedgewithfalseredhibiscus,weresuspendedfromroofcov- before anightsailtothenextisland. then lunch,agiftshop,rumdistilleryandTiPunch( back totheshipsayingthey’d“seeneverything”afteraquickstopforgarden, cruise-line visitorswhoweregiventhe20-minutetasteofagarden.Theycouldgo the routemighthavebeenindoubt.Meanwhiletherewasanalternativefor had beenguidedaroundthegardenbysmallboardswitharrowsatanypointwhere By thetimewe’dhadcoffeeitwasnearlyfouro’clockandstillraining.Wethought Hummingbirds whizzedoverourheads,thenflewthroughtheinnerdiningroom We werewelcomedbythepatron’swifeintoarestaurantatsideofanhotel, When weemergedfromthemuseumitwasstillrainingandcuratorhadtrouble After 45minutesofmountainroads,seaviewsandpouringrainweweredroppedoff Unusually, afellowtouristwastravellingonthesamebus.Weareveryfamiliarwith There areseveralbotanicalgardensonMartiniquesothenextdaywethought The whirringnoiseofthebirds’wingsisamemorytolastlifetime,especiallyas The biggesttreatwasyettocomeaswegottheexit.Plasticbottles,decorated After anhourandahalfthepathwaydirectedusbacktostartofwalk.We language version. gin andthecommonname.WeweregivenEnglish- The sheetlistedthebotanicalname,family,ori- numbered orincludedinthesheethandedtousonentry. this doesn’tcountasinglebamboo,noneofwhichwas we’ve everseen. wax andusuallyred,satalongsidethebiggestBusyLizzies Fabulous tropicalflowers,oftenlookingasifcarvedfrom served, andprovideheightmuch-neededshade. side ofaravine.Manytheexistingtreeshavebeenpre- PM In alltherearearound180namedplantsandtrees The gardenwascreated25yearsagofromlandonthe and thegardendidnothavearestaurant.Thewomanat ti meaning petit PM . ) NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Marmaris Genoa OGISTICS OVEMBER OVEMBER L N N

Palma de Mallorca Cherbourg La Rochelle Toulon ACHT ENOA – ALMA – Y P

G LASS Seemingly out of nowhere Snake pro- Seemingly out of nowhere included Our natural trail snacks After a bit of steep downhill hiking we hit We got back to the van and changed out C for an hour. Snake rigged another safety for an hour. Snake rigged case someone rope in the deep pool just in spent a needed help. Snake had obviously lot of time on his safety plan. I am a fan duced a red-tailed boa. I admit and pythons. of snakes, especially boas and we pres- We are too big for them to eat Several of us ent no threat to them. gentle forest- enjoyed handling this dwelling creature. in some mamey apples, known as apricots islands. We of the other Caribbean and Snake stopped at a breadfruit tree a slash in showed us that you can make the bark the tree and the layer beneath If you let that will weep a milky substance. days you can milky gum sit there for a few and have your return and scrape the gum self a nice wad of chewing gum. It has no taste, but a good consistency. It is best not to take it out of your mouth and look at the color of the gum — it is an unappe- tizing shade of gray. The color of chewing gum is overrated! a dirt road and crossed a few streams. In a deep stream Snake got busy on a project. He was vigorously rubbing a palm fruit on a rock. A blob of yellow slime was growing and he reached up and started shampooing his hair with the yellow stuff. I admit that I am terminally curious and besides I felt that Snake would be disappointed if no one took him up on his offer of a shampoo. I wet my hair and offered up my head for anointing with the yellow goop. I lathered and rinsed and after a few more rinses my hair was clean and soft. In fact, I think even now, a few days later, it is a bit softer. of our wet clothing and headed directly to Maracas Beach for a meal of “shark and bake”. It was a great day. ‘The falls stepped down the cliff in small shimmering ribbons and pooled on ledges and continued downward…’

HOMAS TO Martinique Another hour or so and many “nature-food Another hour CALL FOR SPECIALS! ORLD ARTINIQUE TO Newport half-hour break for a swim. A few of us (okay, only of us (okay, a swim. A few break for half-hour feet in the chute up about ten I) climbed Jesse and It was and slid down into the water. of the waterfall a refreshing break. Snake to the edge of Rincon Falls. breaks” got us to grip as so we had something rigged a hand-line We all a slippery, muddy gully. we walked down waterfall. at a pool fed by a 300-foot arrived safely down the cliff in small shimmering The falls stepped down- on ledges and continued ribbons and pooled and swam the ledges. We lunched ward traversing ST. T M W Freeport St. Thomas Port Everglades WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM

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Yacht at Rest Yacht AM Jesse James runs a tour and taxi service called runs a tour and taxi service Jesse James hike is an Jesse says the Rincon Falls We met our guide, “Snake” (his real The trail followed the contour of the hill- When we met Jesse in the marina parking lot at parking lot in the marina met Jesse When we parrots were still squawking loudly as they depart- still squawking loudly as they parrots were is they go roost to go wherever it ed their nighttime starting to nighttime air was just for the day. The and we drove out of Chaguaramas warm up. As that many of Petit Valley it was clear into the hills is not too day hours ago. Six AM had started their a day of hiking. early to start regular Maxi Taxi, which provides Members Only and large to the market, grocery shopping trips as custom hardware stores, as well trips into tours for hiking and evening Jesse is Port of Spain to listen to music. county and a great ambassador for his Seven Seas was awarded with the “Camaraderie Cruising Association Seven Seas Award” in 2001 and the 2005. “South Bound II Award” in ten, with one “eight” on a scale of one to have our own being the easiest. We all to our level basis of rating trails according Regardless of of experience and fitness. great day. You rating, I can say we had a a few hours of do need to be prepared for and whatev- hiking, a bit of steep terrain The youngest er weather the day brings. was hiker in our group, an 11-year-old, the line, hop- consistently in the front of vines. Lunch, ping logs and ducking water, insect repellent and good shoes are essential for the trip. name is Laurence), at the start of the trail. As we got ourselves together I saw Snake and his assistant unload a few ropes and a lifejacket from the trunk of his car. Snake gave us a safety talk and we were off down the road. We passed a few houses and active gardens. Snake stopped now and again to point out plants of interest and tell us their medical and practical uses. We all tried a plant that tasted a bit like spinach. I enjoyed the botanical lessons. At this point some- one remarked about our good fortune to have an early start and to beat the heat. side; it was an old path that was used for transporting coffee and cocoa to market in the town of St. Joseph in the days when it was the capital of the country of Trinidad & Tobago. We stopped at a field that was planted with pumpkin and cucumber. The cucumbers had been picked but a few were missed, and Snake used his cutlass (machete) to peel cucum- bers and give us each a slice. He then tossed us each a mango as a dessert for our snack. After about two hours of hik- ing we reached Black Waterfall. We took a 6:00 NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Harbormaster Emeriti, the ’06account.Fortunately,GrenadacurrentlyhostsourDockmasterand (PBM) inthedustandcondensation. who havedrawnupplansonthetablesatSteve’sPlaceandPuertoBlancoMarina windward side.Goodnewshowever:theclasshasmanytalentedmarineengineers of thetowndinghydock,butthisyear’sfreshmanclasshasalreadybeguntobashits Class Notes. ing dinnertothedelightofall. class. Bruceoutdidhimselfande-mailedthefollowingproclamationthatIreaddur- celebration. BruceandhisdearwifeRosaliveinLuperónsoheknowsmostofour most ussafelydownthe“thornypath”,tosendanoteofsomesortbereadat Calypso Sauce;andthegrandfinale,bananasflambéwithvanillaicecream. I’ve gothistopsecretrecipe!)andsalt-codfritters;freshpan-searedsnapperwith and okrasoup;twoappetizers—lambisizzler(thebestconchintheuniverse chef, butaheckofanentertainer. holds regularcookingclassesanddemonstrationsforcruisers.He’snotonlyagreat George’s. “BB”,BrianBenjamin,haswontheAfro-CaribbeanChef’sAwardand restaurant, BB’sCrabbackCaribbeanRestaurant,locatedontheCarenageinSt. classmates wedecidedtoorganizea“classreunion”dinnerpartyatourfavorite Grenada. DesiréandIweregettingreadytomoveonbutafterchattingwithafew dozen ofouroldLuperónbuddiesdroppedtheirhooksalongthesoutherncoast cruise intoPricklyBay,Grenada,thissummerbutoverthenextsixweeksagood things aboutLuperónwasthedinghydocksinking(morethatinaminute). age youvisitassaildown-islandtheforrestofyourdaysatsea.Oneworst 70 otherkindredspiritsandbumpingintooneortwooftheminnearlyeveryanchor- ing thehurricaneseasoninLuperón,DominicanRepublic,wasgettingtoknow60or and unanimouslyapprovedamotiontoallowourtworesidentEmeriticollectthe June issueof Reunites inGrenada ‘Luperón The AlumniTreasurernotesthatthecustomaryClassGranthasgonemissingfrom Due tohisfineeffortstheCollegeGroundsCrewhasfinallyrepairedendstage Famous Potatoes Greetings toLuperónAlumni,GrenadaChapter. I hadaskedBruceVanSant,theinfamoussailorandauthorofbookthatgot Brian puttogetherafive-coursefeast:avocadosaladwithguavapurée;calalloo Famous Potatoes An adhoccommitteeoftheAlumniBoardformedatPBMtoaddressthissituation, Jack Foardreports:Ifyoureadmyarticle“Luperón,TheRestoftheStory”in Compass Class of’06’ , ValedictorianoftheClass’06,includedyourfoundationinhis was oneofthefirstboatsfromLuperón“Class’06”to Katana , youmayrememberthatoneofthebestthingsaboutspend- and Seacomber by JackFoard . Chef BrianBenjaminwiththeauthorat‘classreunion’ entire tale.Ipostedhisstoryonmywebsite,web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2.) and savedher.ShewassafeinDominica.(IlatercaughtupwithDanielheardthe call fromDominicathateveningtoheartheDominicanNavyhadfound French helicopterpulledhimoutofthesea.Muchtohisdelighthereceivedaphone the northcoastofDominicaandhispooroldboatwasjustabouttogounderwhena remember Bruce’suseofbeeronomy. “I wonderwhoshallshowup”. for oursecondreuniontobeback“oncampus”inLuperón,butasBrucemightsay, Caribbean feast,andenjoyinglotsoflaughter. out thatoneoftheclasshadanexcusedabsence.Danielon Potatoes debt fromGrenadaChaptermembersintheformofbeer.* * Ifyouread“TheBook”( I wonderwheretheClassof’06willbenexthurricaneseason?Brucehascalled It wasalovelyevening,chattingwitholdLuperónfriends,devouringdelightful Receta, Magus,Imagine,Molasses,Katana,Bendeción,DurbanDancer (Bruce VanSant) Tidak Apa Your Secretary, Eagerly awaitingyourparticipationinourOn-CampusAlumniReunion’08, where allthere.Wetoldstoriesaboutouradventuresandmishapsfound The Gentleman’sGuidetoPassagesSouth Esperanza hit awhaleoff and ) youmay Esperanza Famous NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 5"W ' Venezuela ■ Tang Yuk Tardieu Complex The Bight The Lure Bar The Upholstery Shop Tropical Marine TTSA TTYC Wheel House Pub William H Scott YSATT at any of these locations (this month’s Puerto La Cruz Puerto La Cruz ■ Immigration Office Internet Café Institute of Marine Affairs Irena Tours/Members Only Island Homes Minimart Joe’s Pizza Kiss Energy Lazzari & Sampson Lennox Stewart LP Marine Marc-One Marine Warehouse Mariner’s Office Nau-T-Kol Peake Chandlery Peake Yacht Services Pier One Power Boats Republic Bank Richards Rick’s Dive Shop Sails Restaurant SGI Distributors Ships Carpenter/Internet Café Soca Sails Southern Supplies Sweet Water Marina Tackle Shop T&T Hospitality & Tourism Inst. 24"N Long. 64° 40 24"N ' Caribbean Compass ), courtesy of our T&T distributor Boater’s Enterprise: Readers! When in Chaguaramas, Trinidad, pick up your free Readers! When in Chaguaramas, Trinidad, pick up your bold PICK UP! http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: [email protected] http://bahiaredonda.com.ve No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities No hurricanes 270sq. miles Compass Lat. 10° 12 El Morro Tourist Complex El Morro Tourist marina internacional marina ■ Ahoy, Aikane/Catamaran Village Alle Right Services Apadoca Wines Barrow Sails Boaters’ Shop Budget Marine Calypso Canvas Calypso Marine Caribbean Marine Caribbean Propeller CDA office Chaguaramas Metal Works Coastal Machine Shop Convenient Car Rental Coral Cove Marina Corsa Marketing CrewsInn Marina Customs Office Dockside Supermarket Dockyard Electrics Echo Marine Econo Car Electropics Formula III Fortress Woodworking Goodwood Marine Hi-Lo Supermarket IMA/CDA Area IMS Yacht Services monthly copy of the advertisers in Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page: Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 has been regarded as the stan- has been regarded as the

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hh PRODUCT POSTINGS PRODUCT TT JJ NN 22 NN enhancements creating “next generation” standards for performance and ease of enhancements creating “next generation” standards are connected to the use. Unlike traditional designs, none of the electrical elements stress faults from continuous float, therefore protecting them from water ingress and it turns a shaft that acti- movement. Instead, when the float is raised by bilge water, the float switch. vates a “snap action” switch inside the main housing of pump technology Overall, the new units benefit from the best of Rule’s submersible protection for wiring and with long life seals, top mounted waterproof grommet and water wicking. “blocked” wiring connectors, all of which prevent corrosion to make them easier to The switches now have a detachable mounting base locate and install. reliability, and the All models have been tested up to 1 million cycles ensuring amps. range will operate pumps drawing up to either 14 or 20 For more information visit www.rule-industries.com. Rule, part of the ITT Marine & Leisure Group, have developed a completely new Rule, part of the ITT Marine switches. The new models also offer many other design range of mercury-free float The latest addition to the Jonbuoy inflatable range of products, which are exclusive The latest addition to the Jonbuoy inflatable range of Rescue Sling. The inflatable to Ocean Safety, is the innovative Jonbuoy Inflatable lifesling; combined with a sling is a natural development from the more traditional situation. throw sock it is quick and easy to use in a man-overboard either a tube container, Compact and lightweight, the sling packs neatly into a soft sock, which is easily which can be mounted onto the pushpit or rail, or into stowed in a locker or vehicle. strong point and then remov- The sling is deployed by attaching the securing clip to a ing the sling pouch from the container or sock. The pouch containing the sling can then be thrown towards the casualty. He or she can then place their head and arms into the already inflated sling and be gently recovered back on board or ashore. If the casualty is injured, it is easy to winch them back on board using the sling. Once fired, the Jonbuoy Sling is easy to re-arm and repack. The Jonbuoy Inflatable Rescue Sling has a buoyancy of 175N with a 30-metre 8mm safety line. The system has a manual override and a top-up inflation tube. For more information visit www.oceansafety.com. Sailing videos made by Don Street in the 1980s are now back on the market as DVDs. the market now back on in the 1980s are by Don Street videos made Sailing to Antigua passage from Ireland with Street” details a transatlantic “Transatlantic Verdes: 2 hours. via the Cape is the story of “Antigua Week” ing her 80th birthday: 1 hour ing her 80th birthday: know: l hour knots every sailor should demonstrates the essential “Street on Knots” and Bluewater Books. via Armchair Sailor All DVDs are available Maintaining night vision onboard is critical for safe navigation. Hella Marine’s EuroLED Touch Lamp makes it easy to switch between red and white light, and fea- tures the latest in touch-sensitive switching and dimming technology, Simply touch the red pad for red light and the white one for white light. Holding a finger on the pad for more than two seconds causes the lamp to cycle through four dimming levels. Lifting the finger selects the desired light intensity. The lamp always turns on at the previously set color level, even if there’s a power interruption. EuroLED Touch lamps can also be operated remotely with off-the-shelf On/Off/On momentary switches. Pre-wired with 2.5m of cable, the EuroLED Touch Lamp is available with a black or white shroud and measures 129.5mm W x 29.5mm H. Hella’s new LED Interior Lamps are well-suited for the chart table, as navigation and berth lighting, and as adjustable reading lamps. According to the manufacturers, with a current draw of less than 2W, the white or red LEDs provide outstanding light output with high energy efficiency. Featuring Hella Marine Multivolt technology, the lamp provides consistent illumination and circuit protection across a range of inputs from 9-31V DC. It is conveniently pre-wired. With no filaments to break, the lights are shock and vibration resistant, and the light’s surface is cool and safe to touch. For more information visit www.hellamarine.com. The second edition of Jacques Patuelli’s cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles, cruising Guide to the Lesser of Jacques Patuelli’s The second edition Jacques For a number of years Virgin Islands, is now available. Grenada to the Patuelli’s dard guide for French-speaking yachtsmen in the Caribbean. This popular book dard guide for French-speaking Grenada and Barbados to the Virgin Islands is a trans- covering the Caribbean from original French version by Stephen Davies and Elaine lation from Jacques Patuelli’s with photographs from ground level and the air, Morgan. The book is fully illustrated is dealt with in detail and pilotage notes are fol- plus detailed charts. Each island and the usual data on formalities and facilities. lowed by tourist information chandleries or from www.imray.com. Available form bookstores and NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 lcrnc,Cadey Rigging Chandlery, Electronics, • Visa/MasterCardaccepted • Activitydesk(Tours,divingandwatersportactivities) • Lightboatrepairandcleaning • YachtchandleryagentsofBudgetMarine • Telephone&internetWIFIconnection • Garbagedisposal • Cleanrestroomsandshowers • Bakery • Ice&Provisioning(Grocerystore) • Nightsecurity • Securedmoorings • Nearbylaundryservice • Dinghydock • Fuel(MarineDiesel)/Wateratthedock • DinghyBar Your Caribbean MarineFleaMarket www.midatlanticyachtservices.com S CHIP-OAE John Cawsey,Yachtmaster,Instructor over 8DaysinBequia Shore BasedCourses Dutch –EnglishFrenchGermanspoken Close toMarinaBas-du-Fort-PointeàPitre PO Box30,PortElizabeth,Bequia & soonMercuryMarine PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL Starts Monday3rdDec2007 YACHT SERVICES EU-VAT (15%) Importation Bunkered Fuel(+10,000lt) Day Skipper& Charts –Sails-BookExchangeetc… Open 6daysaweekexceptSundays for Trans-Atlantic Yachts FAX +351292391656 TEL +351292391616 [email protected] MID ATLANTIC E.mail :[email protected] Yachtmaster New &Second-HandChandlery Write Johnc/oJeanWebb Phone :+590(0)831775 or phone(784)457-3623 with yourphonenumber Services &Repairs Services until 14thApril2008 or text07807813123 Providing allvital AZORES Guadeloupe –F.W.I Cost 1900$EC Contact :Anke [email protected] www.dominicamarinecenter.com Capitainerie Tel:+7672752851 THE CITYOFROSEAU UNIQUE INDOMINICA VHF: 16WorkingCH:19 Fax: +7674487701 SITUATED IN and Bequia.TheseactswillbejoinedbyanAll-Star Country Relatives,andreggaebandsfromSt.Vincent Band music,countrymusicBequia-stylefromthe and internationalflavour,startingwithBequiaString On Saturday26ththeeveningwillhavebothalocal George fromtheUK. Prather fromChicago,andlastyear’sfavouritePapa Blues Bandjoinedbyasuperbline-upincludingZach comes toBequia,withDanaGillespieandherLondon Friday night,theworld-famousMustiqueBluesFestival Orchestra fromSt.VincentattheFrangipaniHotel.On 24th withaperformancebythe13-pieceEliteSteel The MusicFestwillkickoffontheeveningofThursday monitor situatedinthediningareaunderstars. circuit videowillrelayperformancestoabigscreen events. Anew,enlargedstageisbeingbuilt,andclosed- venue fortheFridayandSaturdaynight,ticket-only be transformedintoauniqueentertainmentanddining popular DeReefrestaurantandDawn’sBeachBarwill Lower Bay.Thecombinedbeachfrontpremisesofthe 24th -27th2008)willincludeagreatnewlocationin The four-day5thAnnualBequiaMusicFest(January Bequia MusicFest2008—BytheBeach! [email protected]. www.antiguayachtshow.com ore-mail For moreinformationvisit site inmid-November. the competitionwillbepublishedonshow’sweb- ed regardlessoftheirsizeandtype.Moredetails November 1st,andthefirst25entrieswillbeaccept- Registration fortheChef’sCompetitionopenson should arriveinAntiguanolaterthanNovember20th. and distributeshipmentsonexhibitors’behalf.Shipments Information”). Thiswillalloworganiserstotrack,clear page oftheshow’swebsite(listedunder“Show material shouldcompletetheformon“Shipping” Participants shippingbrochuresandotherpublicity shuttles onDecember4th,5thand6th. be eligiblefortheall-daycomplimentaryairporttaxi should begivenatthetimeofregistrationinorderto inclusion intheofficialshowcatalogue.Arrivaldetails be receivedbeforeNovember15thtoguarantee The showopensonDecember5th,andentriesmust exhibiting vendorcompaniesand12pressagencies. with 178charterbrokersfrom107companies,36non- report that80yachtshavealreadyregistered,along As ofpresstime,theAntiguaYachtShoworganizers Antigua CharterYachtShow2007 valeacademy.org andfollowthe“Hiking”link. modation call(784)492-4058orvisitwww.richmond- For moreinformationaboutguidedhikesoraccom- opened spa. free ofcharge.Massageisalsoavailableinthenewly Chateaubelair orCumberlandBayandbepickedup Overnight visitorscomingbyseacananchorin are alsoavailableforthosewhoenjoyexercise! Caribbean”. GuidedhikesupLaSoufrierevolcano even someofthefilminglocations“Pirates You canvisittwoofthebreathtakingwaterfalls,or guided excursionstovariousplacesaroundtheisland. of St.Vincent.TheAcademy’sHikingCenteroffers around theareathattravelthroughscenic“bush” a calmbeach.Therearemanyhikingpathsall eye cansee.Ashortwalkdownahillwilltakeyouto beautiful vegetation-coveredmountainsasfarthe The areaaroundtheAcademycontainsmilesof in advance. for storage.Accommodationmustbebooked but comfortablelayoutsoftwobeds,adeskandroom US$50 withallmealsincluded.Theroomshavesimple dation forvisitors,availableatUS$25pernightor teer accommodation,thereisalsoseparateaccommo- being preparedtovolunteerinAfrica.Apartfromvolun- …center forpeoplefromallovertheworldwhoare frompreviouspage —Continued E-mail: [email protected] Website:www.frangipanibequia.com frangipani HOTEL jump upThursday nights! jump upThursday the our famous and barbecue • RESTAURANT Don’t miss Tel: (784)458-3255 Fax:(784)458-3824 Bequia • BAR Germany. Fromtherethe the UnitedKingdom,Denmark,Norwayand in May2008,crossingtheAtlanticforcallsthroughout The voyagewillsetsailfromLunenberg,NovaScotia celestial navigationandsmallboathandling. of otherseafaringskillsfromsailmakingtosplicing, them theropes—all175ofthem!plusaboatload work alongsideaprofessionalcrewof14whoteach The exploring theAtlanticOcean. spring onanall-new,12-monthepicadventure Training ProgramoftheYear—willbesettingoutnext American SailTrainingAssociation’sawardfor call (902)634-9984. For moreinformationvisitwww.picton-castle.comor home toLunenburginMayof2009. Barbados andtheBritishVirginIslandsbeforeheading Bequia, Carriacou,Dominica,Guadeloupe,Nevis, the CaribbeanstoppingatGrenada,Anguilla, From there,shipandcrewwillwindtheirwaythrough Equator —toFernandodeNoronha,Brazil. before settingoutacrosstheSouthernAtlantic—and Islands andSenegalwillbethelastportsofcall Mediterranean. Morocco,Madeira,theCanary to portsinFrance,Spain,Gibraltarandonintothe ence isneededtojointhe nations onfourcontinents.Noprevioussailingexperi- ing aboardatraditionalwindship,callingatnearly20 a-lifetime opportunitytoexperiencelivingandwork- The Atlanticvoyagewillpresentyetanotheronce-in- a square-riggedship. 1,000 peopletothechallengesandrewardsofsailing trading withremoteislandsandintroducingnearly island schools,conductingimpromptumedicalclinics, times, deliveringmuch-neededsuppliestoremote The barque Training ShiptoExploreAtlanticandCaribbean [email protected]. www.bequiatourism.com/bequiamusicfest oremail For moreinformationvisit in St.Vincent. Tourism Office,Lina’sDelicatessen,orfromQuikprint sale inBequiafrommid-Decemberatthe and Saturday)willbejustEC$$85.Ticketson EC$60 onthedoor.Specialtwo-nighttickets(Friday Tickets foreachnightwillbeEC$50inadvance,or contact theorganisersandtheywilltrytofityouin! with othermusiciansonSundayafternoon,please max toagreatweekendofmusic.Ifyou’dlikejam Surprise PartyontheBeach—freeforall,andcli- ular MusicFestJazz&BluesJamandMountGay Sunday atDeReefinLowerBaywillbetheeverpop- another show-stoppingperformance. Mount GayBluesBandfromBarbadosreturningfor able Saturdaynightline-up,withTobyArmstrong&the world andmanysurprisegueststomakeanun-miss- band ofBequia-lovingmusiciansfromaroundthe Picton Castle Picton Castle has alreadycircledtheglobefour Picton Castle 06recipientofthe — 2006 Picton Castle will sailsouth . Trainees NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 LTD INE DISTRIBUTOR R P.O. Box 17, Kingstown opposite Howard’s Marine PAIE E-mail: [email protected] Located CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent AMAHA MA Y TEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 KMRN SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENT ENGINES (DUTY FREE PRICES) I would have , thought Bruno. he thought. on a set over the bar. About , drinking black coffee and smok- , he thought. Today he would give that Knight Rider Never Mind , a narrow 27-foot wooden sloop. Instead of , a narrow 27-foot wooden faux pas, thought Bruno. final Aventure in numbers roughly in that order in numbers roughly in that Today will be different . No one mentioned Hal’s name out of deference to Bruno, since Part One for a living. He had never been rich and had paid for his floating for a living. He had never been rich and had paid for his by Bob Berlinghof work Calalloo COMPASS FICTION COMPASS Hal Everton was lucky I didn’t bump into him today, Compass. by 8:30. but in 1988 he returned to tiny Bellevue… but in 1988 he returned He had sailed the Caribbean and the Pacific, He had sailed the off the beach, where it had been holed by a tropical storm, for 500 US dollars. A year later he off the beach, where it had been holed by a tropical Never Mind THE RIVALS THE of strong rum, often joining them in their animated discussions of cricket. He had learned to shout of strong rum, often joining them in their animated discussions your stories, Bruno. Like fine wine they just get better with age,” said Gossett, winking at the ladies. petits Aventure love To be continued in next month’s Hal had also had the audacity to set up a competing workshop on his 45-foot catamaran six months ago. Bruno Bruno, who never lent tools to anyone, had been tricked by Hal’s earnest demeanor, his easy smile, calm brown Bruno walked unsteadily from Maggie’s to a booth in town for a local repast of breadfruit and saltfish before Bruno went back to work and tried to forget about Gossett’s rudeness. He changed the diodes of an alternator Not much was happening. A few locals watched an insipid rerun of He had sailed the Caribbean and the Pacific, circumnavigating the globe, but in 1988 he returned to tiny He had sailed the Caribbean and the Pacific, circumnavigating six doors down from the Customs shed. He charged He toiled in a rented workshop behind Maggie’s rum shop, Bruno crushed out his cig, took a sip of coffee, and sighed. Of course this was more evident during the summer season when there were no bucks to hustle, and it ignored Of course this was more evident during the summer season But unlike those idlers, thought Bruno, I In the decades after Bruno’s arrival, other yachties with no ties to the outside world settled in Rancide Bay, part- arrival, other yachties with no ties to the outside world In the decades after Bruno’s which, taken together, were far more serious than any It was only the latest of a series of breaches of etiquette, was well past 50, he had married beautiful, 19-year-old Bruno’s love life was typically a mess. In ’96, after he forth to the Old Guard as well as the local men who He was known to suck down rum-and-cokes and hold over the sweet young things and visiting bareboaters’ Bruno was a creative raconteur and would cast a spell heat drove people from Bay Street into the sickly Maggie’s was an unlikely oasis for visitors, but the summer and heroism on the high seas, particularly if the captive Bruno loved a new audience for his tales of adventure Tuamotus?” “Did I ever tell you about the time I was stranded in the “Only about ten times,” said Jim Gossett, a charter skipper and Old Guard regular. “I did? Well, it bears repeating, anyway…” Bruno would say, and continue for the benefit of two stout middle- my “Then there was the time I was shipwrecked in the Bahamas. The local villagers salvaged what was left of “Put you up in their homes,” Gossett prompted, teasing Bruno. “If you don’t like my stories then go drink at Musket’s,” retorted Bruno. Musket’s bar was a quarter mile down “We Bruno Frankenheim, 63, sat in the cockpit of his 38-foot steel ketch, Bruno Frankenheim, 63, sat Dawn broke cool and hazy on an August day over Bellevue Island, in the little harbor port of Rancide. There in the little harbor port day over Bellevue Island, and hazy on an August Dawn broke cool given that bastard a thrashing. had lent him his wheel-puller before realizing that Hal was taking customers from him. And to top it off, Hal had had lent him his wheel-puller before realizing that Hal was taking customers from him. And to top it off, Hal yet to bring it back! if the eyes, and chiseled, sunburned face. Hal reminded Bruno of himself 20 years ago, and Bruno had wondered lad might want to work for him next season, when he would be swamped. Instead, Bruno had been sabotaged. retiring aboard everyone knew by now that Jeanette had defected to Bruno’s rival. and welded stanchions from a boat that had been hit in the night by a squall. By 4:30 he was back at Maggie’s, ready for his usual fix of four or five rum-and-cokes. half of the Old Guard turned out, including Mike and Nina from their 40-foot sloop; George Crenshaw, a retired British Naval Officer; and Pete and Sue off Bellevue, population 1,500, and garnered renown as a master seaman and mechanic. Everyone on the island, Bellevue, population 1,500, and garnered renown as poorest families with burnt-out fan motors, took their prob- from visitors with multi-million-dollar stinkpots to the lems to Bruno, and he would patiently sort them out. could afford, but never more than EC$60 per hour, unless his clients on a sliding scale of what he thought they or overbearing Europeans. After work he was a fixture at it was overtime and his clients were rude Americans on Bellevue for well over a decade. Maggie’s among the Old Guard, the ex-pats in residence sold her for $9,000 and bought a bigger wreck. He repeated the process three times. sold her for $9,000 and bought a bigger wreck. He repeated homes by hard physical labor and a skill for improvising repairs. After hitching a ride across the Atlantic, he had homes by hard physical labor and a skill for improvising bought the occasional outbreak of rum shop virulence, such as broken-bottle fights, which could spring up seemingly the occasional outbreak of rum shop virulence, such fishermen, cargo smugglers, and the vast number of unem- from nowhere. The dominant activity among the local This dovetailed nicely with many an ex-pat’s daily life, ployed men seemed to be drinking rum, beer, or Guinness. coffee. starting soon after breakfast “tea,” or in Bruno’s case, ly because of the natural beauty of the place, partly because Bruno could fix anything that moved, and partly due of the place, partly because Bruno could fix anything ly because of the natural beauty of being in a humble and com- the locals, who were usually laid-back to the point to the ambiance provided by fortable vegetative torpor. — his woman was to Bruno. Hal would pay for this latest, no local barmaid with beautiful teeth. Within three months she Bernice Quashie, a lithe, sable-skinned, big-bottomed Bruno had been stupid enough to take her there on had left him for a weight-lifting bartender in Fort Lauderdale. slipped back into a life of fashioning homemade bush- vacation. Bernice bore the bartender twin boys, and Bruno and hanging out at Maggie’s. ings, repairing self-steering worm gears, rebuilding transmissions, ordered and an icy libation. wives who might wander into Maggie’s for a piece of shade single overhead fan. Out front there was a 20-foot striped green four-walled block shack with a pool table and a sat two wooden picnic tables with benches on either side. rectangular awning abutting the street, under which and a dozen plastic armchairs. Inside, a rough pine bar overlooked three plastic tables audience was female. aged women who sat at an adjacent table with their husbands. belongings and…” there, the beach, known for its Jamaican rub-a-dub music and younger set. Hal Everton and his ilk hung out even though Hal was on the wrong side of 40. ing the first of the cigarettes that his two-pack-a-day habit would inflict upon his lungs this day. Bruno always woke that his two-pack-a-day habit would inflict upon his lungs ing the first of the cigarettes up residence in Rancide Bay, been doing so for 35 years. His was the first yacht to take at or before dawn and had of university, Bruno had found back in ’72, when, fresh out in bucket-sized engine rooms. life of sailing, with plenty of rum, sun, and greasy engines architecture, Bruno chose a he had stolen Jeanette, Bruno’s girlfriend for six days. Hal Everton a piece of his mind. Hal had done the unthinkable; local fishing boat races. But today Bruno found his own over the din of the others when the subject came to the audience after leaving work at noon. were only a dozen yachts at anchor; in the high season the numbers swelled to over one hundred. Tourism was a anchor; in the high season the numbers swelled to over were only a dozen yachts at in the high season from There were no yachts until the late 1960s, but nowadays, relatively new thing here. yuppies, English nannies, village overflowed with European families, American Christmas to Easter, the two-road French bare-breasted beauties, Canadian secretaries, and NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 35) FROG 33) COW 30) URCHIN 29) AT 26) SWALLOW 23) LEGS 24) BOARD 23) VANG 20) EAGLE 17) HARE 16) DOG 15) SEA 14) LION 12) WORTHY 9) MOUSE 6) CAP 3) CATGUT 1) BEAR ACROSS Crossword Solution suggestions fromunexpectedsources. sails full. friend willbeverysupportive—afairbreezetokeepyour especially duringthelasthalfofmonth.Afemale romantic problemsrockyourboat. your lifeline. some businesssetbacksbutyoursenseofhumorwillbe ration. Communications willflowfreelyandleadtocreativeinspi- with ease. rents inthesecondweekbutyouwillsailthroughthem Then gosailing. and trytofinishupasmanypossiblebeforethe15th. picky! cism startinginthesecondweek.Everyoneispicky, blown offit. mid-month. Stayonyourcourseanddon’tletyourselfbe romantic glowwillgetyouthroughthenextthree. rough spotsinyourbusinessduringthefirstweek.That forward. crewmembers willbecriticalofeverycreativeideayouput on yourhands. NOVEMBER 2007 While businessisinthedoldrumsyouwillgetimportant You maymeetlotsofcriticismwithyourcreativeideas, Try tomeditateonbusinessorfinanceandnotletyour Don’t letflukywindsblowyouoffcourse.Theremaybe You willhavelotsofsupportfromcrewandlovedones. Romance isintheairforyou.Therewillberoughcur- Devote thefirsthalfofmonthtobusinessmatters Your coursechoiceswillmeetwithoppositionandcriti- Your cabin-matesmayfindfaultwithallyourideasat Let lovesailyouawayanddistractfromallthe This monthwouldbeagoodtimetosailsolo,as Try nottonit-pickthecreworyoumayhaveamutiny SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CANCER CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) 11) ROVERS 10) STAR 8) LOG 7) PAY 6) CAT 5) GULL 4) APE 2) ROOM 1) BEANS DOWN 46) AB 45) 44) WOLVES 43) BAT 41) PUT 39) FRET 38) ROE 37) COAST LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22 Jun-23Jul) 43) BY 42) TEA 41) PIE 40) EGG 36) CROW 34) BORNE 33) COD 32) CRAFT 31) HORSE 28) WATER 27) LAWS 26) SLUG 22) PORT 21) GROW 19) GREEN 18) ADDER 16) DEVIL 13) HOG Nicoya NightsToo for destinationsunknown. disembarking now Final arrival, mountain ranges. and distant cumulus towering tropic illuminating crazy flashes, in jagged lightning dances the violent,violet while allaround bayoneta, to latest where couplesgyrate on thehurricanedeck Music beats on mycheek. like angels’kisses sensual caress Warm winds’ of amidnightpassage. the humidnight push through as we glassy swells, moonlit in reflected bright, corkscrew gently, coloured lights very merry, all On theferry — NicholasLee Island Poets TURTLES INLOVE And itwasn’tturtleseason They killedherforwhateverreason But shewaskilledbefore… They carriedherashore She screamedgood-byeandtriedtosmile But humanscameandcaughther For metherewasnoother We spenttimetogether As shestaredintomine I couldseetheloveinhereyes So shegottobemybaby She wasaperfectlady She said,nicetomeetyousir I introducedmyselftoher I knewlovewasboundtostart The firsttimeIsawhertherewasaspark The girlwassuchabeauty I wasinlovewithT I’m aturtleinthelivingsea My nameisD — DillonOllivierre NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

BELA ALMEIDA — Solution on page 36 ‘SEA’ they are said to be in a 15 Across ____ they are said to be in a 15 has lost its bearings on a close-hauled course) rolling ship 46) Able-bodied 15 Across-man (abbr..) 46) Able-bodied 15 Across-man 30) 15 Across ______: spiny rock clinger 30) 15 Across ______: spiny 33) 15 Across ___: dugong pike 35) 15 Across ____: female shore 37) Where the sea meets the 38) Fish eggs 39) Chafe on a voyage 41) ___ to 15 Across: embark starfish 43) 15 Across ___: a type of 44) 15 Across ______: pirates together by a wave 45) When two ships are thrown 26) 15 Across ______: certain coastal tern species 26) 15 Across ______: certain a ship that 29) “All __ sea”: confused, as DOWN 1) 15 Across ____: small lateen-rigged Spanish boats 2) 15 Across ____: space to maneuver a boat 4) Muscular deck crew 5) 15 Across ____: common marine bird 6) 15 Across ___: octopus 7) Let out, as line 8) Ship’s journal 10) ____fish: five-or ten-legged 15 Across creature 11) 15 Across ______: privateers 13) 15 Across ___: porpoise 16) _____fish: eagle ray 18) 15 Across _____: fifteen-spined stickleback fish 19) The evening flash is this color 21) Become larger 22) What “men and ships rot” in 26) Snail with no shell 27) Rules 28) 15 Across _____ is salty 31) 15 Across _____: the male of this species carries the eggs 32) Boat 33) Commonly salted fish 34) Suffix meaning carried by 36) ____’s nest: observation platform 40) 15 Across ___: white sea urchin 41) 15 Across ___: oyster catcher 42) British tars drink this at 4 o’clock? 43) Full and __ (all sails drawing ACROSS deck sander 1) 15 Across ____: or thread 3) 15 Across laces Across 5 Down 6) Black-___ 15 line hook of a block with small 9) To seize the ______: fitted for the voyage 12) 15 Across ____: large mammal with flippers 14) 15 Across puzzle 15) Topic of this shark 16) ___fish: small mollusk ____: large, shell-less marine 17) 15 Across 15 Across _____ 20) Erne, or white-tailed in place 23) Line to hold boom or gaff East Coast of USA 24) Eastern 15 Across _____: walk the deck of a 23) 15 Across ____: power to 16 23 8 rossword On-line! C 26 28 27 45 46 32 33 39 4039 42 41 [email protected] 14 ruising ruising 43 C

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ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © to helpintimesofneed.SofriendsandneighboursgatheredaroundMistress but notonlythat,thebayinhabitantscaredabouteachotherandwerealwaysready the baylivedtogetherasawell-organizedcommunitylikeallmarinecommunities er andexpenseofgoingtothepostofficeforstamps.Ofcourseinhabitants passed thenewsontoothers.Thisisalmostinstantpostwithouthavingboth- Queenie wasn’ttoowellandeveryoneshetoldthen she metonthewaytoMr.CleanerShrimpthat How didtheyknow?Damselfishhadtoldeveryone long beforethewholebayknewaboutbabyQueenie. refused toeathersupper. for anhourorsobutthenshehungherheadand would dothetrick.Butitdidn’t.Queenieperkedup teeth. MistressAngelfishnaturallythoughtthatthis right intotheopenmouthandcleantongues tissue andwhentheysay:“Openwide,please”go away nastyparasitesfromscales,cleandead fish arejustaboutthebestdoctorsaround.Theypick reef knowsthatcleanershrimpsandsmall damselfish tofetchacleanershrimp.Everyfishonthe should be.SoMistressAngelfishstoppedapassing blue andherblackeyesweren’tasbrightthey and outliningherdelicatefinswerejustadullgrayish Queenie’s brightbluestripesrunningacrossherbody saw thatherlittlegirl,Queenie,wasn’tsowell. grass —oh,justeverything! where tolookfortheseahorsesclinging where tofindtheglassysweepersunderledge, where thejawfishhangoutinsandyrubble, noon visitingfriendsalloverthebay,becauseIknow over forachat.Icanspendwholemorningorafter- anemone waveshertentacles,askingmetohurry wave theirarmsingreetingandthebigpurple show metheirnewbabies,thegoldspottedeeltwinesaboutmyarm,seastars cate, thenIputonmyscubagearandfriendsknowI’mthere.Mumsdads surface andwatchmyfriendsatworkplay,butwhenIwanttocommuni- inhabitants ofthebaypersonallyandIoftenvisitthem.Sometimessnorkelon sandy bayonthenortherncoastofmyprettyislandSt.Lucia.Iknowall me. YouthinkI’mmakingitup?Thenletmeshowyouhowworksinmyfavourite Flying Fish sea levelswillhappen ifland-basedglaciersandicesheetsmelt, notseaice. when seaicemelts, it willnotcausesealevelstorisearound theworld.Arisein melts. Nowapplythis observationtoiceattheNorthPoleand, inthesameway, will knowthatthewaterlevelincontainer doesnotchangewhentheice DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS Did youtrythemeltingiceexperiment fromlastmonth? Queenie’s motherstartedtoworryanditwasn’t Now oneday,notsolongago,MistressAngelfish Fish andothercreaturesthatliveundertheseacommunicatejustlikeyou Airmail

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e a . droplets ofwatercalled called How saltyisseaice? word POLEtothe HEAT? able agriculturalland. temperatures (likewinterwheat)willnot grow,andmoreheatwilldryupvalu- absorb moreheatfromthesunandmake theearthhotter. our weatherwillchange,probablyforthe worse. part oftheglobal“conveyorbelt”currents aroundtheworld.Ifthisbeltstops, ronment. IntheArctic,densesaltwater aroundtheseaicesinksandforms sea iceismeltingfasterthanbefore? than Antarcticseaicesoitusuallymeltsmostlyaroundtheedges. completely butArcticsheeticeissurroundedbylandandtendstobethicker starts tomelt.Inthesouthernoceans,seaicecanfloatnorthwardsandmelt winter. Whenwarmertemperaturescomeinspringandsummer,theseaice surrounding waterishigh. not much.Sowecansaythatthesalinityofseaiceislowand liquid. Highsalinitymeansthereisalotofsalt,lowthat water iceonextrasaltywater. Eventually, thebrinedropletswilldrainout,sowhatisleftbehindmostlyfresh tor inahurry—orcanit? and efficientasthis.E-mailcanbealmostinstantaneous,butitcan’tgetyouadoc- ments, sohewaswellrestedandfedbythetimeturnedbackforhospital. can imaginethatalltheneighboursinvitedimportantmedicalfishforrefresh- full oftheremedyheleftwithMistressAngelfishsoonhadherupandabout.You little angelfishforafewdays,thebigdoseofmedicinehegaveherandseapearl rather breathlessbythetimehereachedbay. n’t oftenthatsurgeonfishneededtomakehousecalls,soBlackDoctorFishwas had tobecontentwithswimmingatthespeedofratherslowphysician.Itwas- the homeofMistressAngelfish.OfcourseDoctorFishcouldn’tfly,soflyingfish icine andhequicklyselectedthemedicinesrequiredfollowedflyingfishto specialized inmanyfields.TheBlackDoctorFishwasthespecialistinternalmed- fish hadgonestraighttothehospitalatreefthatwasstaffedbysurgeonfishwho the nextbayandweretellingDoctorFishallaboutQueenie.Actuallyflying their sleekbodies.Inonlyamatterofminutes,theflyingfishsquadronhadreached that morning,theydazzledtheeyewithsunsparklinginrainbowdiamondson flying fishopenedtheirpowerfulwingsandFLEW.Ohyoushouldhaveseenthem at alltheywereoff.Breakingthroughthesurfaceofsealikesilvertorpedoes, quickly totheflyingfishhavingtheirbreakfastonedgeofreefandinnotime only waytogethiminahurrywassendfortheairmailexpress.Wordspread behind thebay,MistressAngelfishdecidedsheneededaspecialistdoctorand to bedandsatbyhersideallnight. cheese alga,butQueeniewouldn’ttouchanyofit.MistressAngelfishput grapes ripenedtoperfection,youngandtendersealettuce,delicatebitesofSwiss brought giftsofthemostdelicateandtemptingfoodstheycouldfind;palegreensea Angelfish, lookedatQueenieandofferedallsortsofadvice.Somethevisitorseven When seawaterbeginstofreeze,theformssmallicecrystalslikeneedles, Does itmakeadifferencethatseaiceisformedfromwater,notfresh? By replacingoneletter atatime,howmanystepsdoesittake tochangethe WORD PUZZLE • • • • So, forthoseofuswholiveintheCaribbean,whydoesitmatterthat The frazilicecollectsinsheetsonthesurfaceandcontinuestofreezethrough Do youknowwhatsalinityis? THE END I don’tknowaboutyou,butI’dbeveryhappyifmypostalservicewereasquick The doctorquicklydiagnosedQueenie’strouble,andalthoughshewasasick The nextmorningassoonthesuncameupoverfarsideofhills frazil Crop productionwillbeaffected.Crops that requireaspelloffreezing Animals whichliveinthesnowyArcticwill havelesslandtoliveon. When theseaicemelts,itopensupvast areasofdarkoceanwhich Changes insalinityareveryimportantto theworld’sclimateandenvi- . Thesaltintheseawaterdoesnotfreeze.Instead,itstays brine which aretrappedbetweentheicecrystals. It ishowyoumeasuremuchsaltina There areseveralreasons.

Answer onpage18 ANNE-DOUCHE NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 A dark shape lingered in side, but nothing seemed amiss. The eerie sound came again. This time we ran forward no, to peer over the bow — nothing, again. “Mommy!” shouted Warren animatedly, He and then added, “Look!” pointed towards the waters where a slight ripple vibrated across the surface, then disap- peared as fast as it had come. “There!” screamed Adam. He stabbed his forefinger into the depths of the sea, farther down along the hull. shadow beneath the hulls, then raced underneath, silent as a torpedo and just as fast. We rushed astern. The boys cho- rused, “Daddy!” He tossed aside his tools below-decks, then ambled into the cockpit with his usual calm, confident demeanor. The boys were revving into overdrive: A blurry wave of arms and legs surged from bow to stern, then back again. Robin, our Belgian barge dog (Schipperke), was going

hulls to guide her away. This sonar

Scud’s , our 44-foot St. Francis catamaran, in turquoise , our 44-foot St. Francis catamaran, by Tina Dreffin Scud with Me with Come Play Come We were anchored aboard reverie, when an odd percussion of beast against I was brought out of my quiet for the heavens, then slid All at once, the dark shape shot out of the water, drove the waters, careful not to Quickly, we grabbed our masks and fins to slither into her ample room. With We hung back out of respect for the wild mammal, giving We followed the dolphin’s movements. She frolicked on the periphery of our small In the shallow waters, the dolphin darted between us, stopping to pause two feet Over the next few days, the dolphin returned to our boat for her daily massage on We have long considered the presence of dolphins that cruised alongside our bows ‘The dolphin darted between us, stopping to pause two feet in front of the boys’ boat emanated from the bow. Curious, I sauntered on deck. The boys followed me, boat emanated from the bow. the their faithful antennae. Together we peered over sensing something up with flip, re-entering the waters at back down the clouds, and somersaulted into a back the boat. A bottlenose dol- the exact spot it had exited. A hushed silence fell over our anchor rode, circled phin! She streamlined to the bow, rubbed her back along and over again. We stared the boat, then repeated her massage on the bow — over deck, following her hypnotic wide-eyed, mouths ajar, as we scurried across the sashaying around the boat. I eyed the children: big white alarm the dolphin. Before taking the plunge, Peter and headlights. The hot sum- saucers blinked back at us from behind masks like twin of eager anticipation, nerves mer breeze was heavy with their unspoken words hung close to Peter’s side; vibrating like taut violin strings. In the waters, Adam Warren, nearly upon my back. shiny skin: a slight scar ran waters clear as cellophane, details were sharp on her scrapes stretched along her across the dorsal fin, and inconspicuous barnacle snowy-white underbelly. family group, dipping and rising to the surface, never really going anywhere. She emitted a single-toned squeal to convey alarm — or possibly excitement? The click that projected from the “melon” on her forehead, located in front of the blowhole, acted as a sonar beam, bouncing off waters clear as air in St. John, the US Virgin Islands. Onboard were my husband, waters clear as air in St. John, sons: Adam age 9, and Warren, age 8. The boys’ merry Peter, and our two young to which I listened with pleasure, as they completed prattle had a lilt and cadence were happy to have finally reached the Virgin Islands afternoon school lessons. They down the “thorny path”. Breathing in the pure ocean after our eventful passage frangipani, I took in the stunning view of bay waters breeze that was scented with peaks, filled with languid melancholy. against a backdrop of island The heightened cacoph- bananas from the tease of the mermaid in the waters below. was comical. ony of the boys’ squeals together with the dog’s hysteria in front of the boys, barrel-rolling across the sandy bottom. If she swam too far into the glassy void, the boys back-pedaled to the safety of Mom and Dad. Sensing a dis- appearing audience, the dolphin turned back to tease them out again. For two hours she played cat and mouse. Her finale touched all our hearts: she swam up to the boys so close that out of sheer fright, Warren propelled himself out, willing to walk on water. The dolphin did likewise, breaking the surface like a rocket bent on speed alongside him, over half her body pointing to the heavens. In the late afternoon light, her glistening front towered over Warren’s tiny frame. the anchor rode. We never did figure out where she came from, or why she seemed so tame. We named her Niki, for the little nick in her back, possibly from a close encounter with an angry shark. as a good omen and a promise of fair weather. Many classical writers have described how dolphins were once harnessed to chariots to help maidens in distress. We con- sidered Niki our lucky talisman, a gift to continue our wandering cruise down the exot- ic island chain of the Caribbean, forever ready for our next big adventure that proba- bly no one back home would believe. At least this time, we had the photo to prove it! beam enables dolphins to avoid collision in their herd when swimming fast: up to 25 mph. Typically, we see dolphins travel in small pods of five to ten animals, yet an immense school of up to 1,000 when we’ve crossed oceans. NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 with andaroundit. Grenadines isapoliticalboundary.Thepeopleandofficialsofthelive ways, portionsoftheislandshavetheirways.Thelinethroughcenter seafarers, notfarmers.TheGrenadineshavetheirownways,eachislandhasits culture isWestIndian(whichis,itself,amix),butdifferentkindofIndian, (Grenada andSt.Vincent&theGrenadines[SVG]),areislandsoftheirown.Their his cartoons.“IsGaryLarsonnotanartist?”Iasked. Guy didn’trefusetodoitthewayIwanted,hesimplydidhis—it’sbeautiful. number ofGrenadineislands—theyareart.Thenameon “Don’t callmeanartist!”hesaid.“I’masignpainter.”Therearemanyofhissignson bunch ofthepostcardsmadefromthreehispaintings.Ithoughthewasagoodartist. Guy andItouchedonart.usuallyboughtsomelittlepiecewhenvisitedGuy,a Guy’s, andlittlesisterisonewithherhorses.Iamthewriter,ofPop’sartforms. own artform:bigbrotherisanactor,littlebrother’sascolorfulandfanciful art storeandtookhomewhatshesoldtoseehowitworked.Wesiblingsallhaveour food comesoutintheWestIndies,everybodyeats.Samewithrum. respect, then,goodorbad,richpoor,itdoesn’tmatterwhoyouare.Andwhenthe whose musicheadmired.RespectisthecurrencyofWestIndies.Ifyoushow Jack Iron).Guyplayedhisguitaratthefringe,respectfuloflocalmusicians, where nightlifehadmusic(largelyacousticstring)andstrongrum(kingofwhichis became “shipwrecked”.Meanwhile,hehadbeenassimilatingintothecommunity, that grewbylayers,tobecomeadepth. ing oneormore…callthemtrademarks.Butcolorwaswhatitabout,a humor, always,hesaid,containingajokenooneelsecouldfind.Usuallycontain- wood, rock,andshell,madebeautifulincolor,amusingtostudy,innocent of Carriacou,Icametoremark,“IknowwhyGuyDeanisalwaysbeatup.Heearnsit.” qualities tobeusedinhisart.Followinghimongoattrails(andless)throughthebush indigenous andEuropean.Hewasalways,also,seekingfindingobjectsofspecial was alwayslookingfor(andfinding)artifactsoftheisland’spreviousinhabitants,both village). Webecamefriendsandtalkedmuch.Andwehikedallovertheisland.Guy survival —guitarstringsandartist’spaints. isfying stuff.)InevermetLynn.ButsheregularlysentGuytreasurescrucialtohis equestrian stuffthatsheloves.(Ihavewatchedmysister’swork—sat- to beagedaswell. wooden boat.GuyandIwerebeginning Never mindthat and bottompaint,acoupleofweeks. Grenadines-built boat,neededrepairs Carriacou, Grenada. hauled out character. Imethimthedaybeforehe The GrenadineIslands,thoughpartofthecountriestowhichtheybelong Guy begantopaintwoodenrumbarrels,cleaningthemupandcoveringwith I comefromanartisticfamily.Momenteredshowsandwonprizes.Sheworkedin Cocoa Each timeIvisitedGuy,hewouldgoonbreakandviewhiswork,mostly I visitedGuyfrequentlyinWindward,andheoftenHarveyVale(TyrrelBay’s Lynn wasbackinColoradodoing Guy DeanwasagenuineCaribbean Guy Deanisdead.Anartisthaspassed. www.errolflynnmarina.com e-mail: info@errolflyn Contact John Louis•876-715-6044 •876-873-4412 Caribbean, servicingyachts upto95'inlength. The only100-tontravel liftinthispartofthe was twoweeksfromlaunchforayearortwo.ThenGuy’sofficialstatus Cocoa Cocoa in Windward, was anaged Cocoa mrn.o VHF • nmarina.com , a GUY DEAN by JimHutchinson Ambia’s Channel 16 —Continued onnextpage —Continued transom ishiswork. Errol Flynn &BoatyardErrol Marina THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON       PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENTON Duty Free Zone inMarina Engine andPart Specialists 24 HourFuel Paint Sheds 100 Ton Travel-lift Full ServiceMarina

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Navigating thegood life  NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 Officially, Guy had no status. Visitors in these parts are required to have out- have to required are parts in these Visitors status. no Guy had Officially, to report to not to notice. Guy was told could no longer pretend Eventually, they Immigration a year and a quarter,” the in my country illegally for “You have been the US Once he left Bequia bound for to Guy at the ferry when I said good-bye recently died in St. Thomas waters. He is survived That was years ago. Guy Dean END bound transportation — a vessel or ticket. Guy now had neither. Nor did the offi- Nor did now had neither. or ticket. Guy — a vessel transportation bound have rel- islanders Grenadine of his presence. knowledge SVG have official cials of go. But come and the people separate countries, which are many islands atives on him. forced to notice officials were dispute, and a boundary was near Guy’s tent three to his tent after returned home in jail. He to, put him what they had They did The finest of the stepped in for him. of the parties in the dispute days when one its dead- went to jail with him, missing for my articles pieces I had commissioned one of Guy was rerun in its place. Thus, from a previous article line. A drawing unpublished. Dean’s best went with him, and Which he did. I went his passport and a ticket. Immigration with Guy asked for an extension. heard for myself. will hurt anything.” don’t see that two more weeks officer said. “I Virgin Islands. by Caribbean characters too numerous to mention. by family and friends, and Artwork by the late Guy Dean: ‘beautiful in color, amusing to study, innocent in humor’ Artwork by the late Guy Dean: Cocoa contributions. Anyway, I found Guy living in the work area beyond the kitchen and dining area Anyway, I found Guy living in the work area beyond helping Mrs. Forde in Then Guy wasn’t on Union. I found him on Mayreau, at The Anchorage in Clifton, Union. He was painting signs that, as he put it, “tell at The Anchorage in Clifton, Union. He was painting many signs with a variety of people like me to stay out.” Over several visits I saw messages come to full color. knew Mayreau well. Then exchange for meals and a place to sleep. Guy and Lynn to east, from Moonhole to Guy surfaced on Bequia. On Bequia, he migrated west trail of art along the way. He Lower Bay to Belmont to Spring to Park, leaving a a nice spot, on the beach, a wound up in a tent at the far end of Park Bay. It was kind of place I could live if nice piece of grass, nearly end-of-the-road rural — the art for my articles to his I didn’t have my boat. It was there that Guy added Compass returns West Indians who have run afoul of their systems. Often, such people returns West Indians who US. But he had come to belong only where they are. Guy’s nationality was belong in the Grenadines. —Continued page from previous four years. came at about on Carriacou shipwrecked for being Guy’s limit was now way beyond two weeks from launching. And Guy had no means (nor had no means And Guy from launching. two weeks way beyond was now Guy was could carry, what he US. So, with a ticket to the to buy inclination) would procedure The “proper” Island, SVG. Union a boat to neighboring put on world the developed just as “home” country, him to his to return have been NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 Bougainvilla

Union Island

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stores orfromwww.cruisingguides.com. mation andmore. and offerslinksfortidaldata,weather,securityinfor- maps andalltheGPSwaypointsusedinguides, which givesupdates,allowsreaderstoprintouttown regulations, weather,communicationsandsightseeing. other featuresincludesectionsonplanningyourcruise, activities. Abundantlyillustratedwithcolorphotos, and snorkelingsites,thelow-downonshoreside mation, detailsofmarinasandservices,tipsondiving updated editionsincludechartsandnavigationalinfor- Venezuela andBonaire plus BarbadosandGuyana ular guides: Doyle hasitcoveredinthirdeditionsoftwohispop- ly shiftstowardtheCaribbean’s“DeepSouth”,Chris TRINI-ZUELA Both booksareavailableatchandleriesandbook- Both guidesarelinkedwithwww.doyleguides.com As withallChris’sguides,theserecentlyreleased, As theseriouscruiser’scenterofgravityincreasing- Cruising GuidetoTrinidadandTobago, . , and Cruising Guideto NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 AINT PUERTO LA CRUZ,VENEZUELA PUERTO ANTIFOULING P SAILOR’S TIN FREE SINCE 1990 • REPLACEMENT PARTS & CHANDLERY MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS • PERSONALIZED ATTENTION BY OUR EXPERIENCED STAFF THE CRUISING ABC 3 ON AMER T XANADU MARINE: A TELEPHONE: (58) (281) 265-3844 FAX: (58) (281) 265-2448 E-mail: [email protected] VHF Channel 72 E-mail: Standby [email protected] CORNER OF MIRANDA & GUARAGUAO, CORNER OF MIRANDA DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLIARTIGIANA DISCOUNTS ON AND CARIBE DINGHYS NEW * Delco * Underwater Metal Kit * Z-Spar * Cetol * Mercury Marlin Bottom Paint Ancor Whale * * * Ritchie * Breeze Tempo * Teleflex Seachoice * Marpac * * Jabsco * Groco * Perko Pumps * 3-M * Flags Wix * Shurflo* Johnson Racor * * Orion * Sunbrella * Starbrite * Camp Zincs * Marine Padlocks Boatlife * Marinco * Garmin * Uniden Supplies * Canvaswork Vinyl * Clear Weblon System * Shields West * * Sta-lok * 316 SS Rigging * Cordage Apelco * Harken Charts lolaire Aqua Signal * Imray * Waterproofing Accessories * Dinghy edited by , —Continued on page 51 Griffith’s father, a preacher, , at age 24. My only criticism . The second Hazell story His father was a sea captain. the first Hazell on Bequia. Author from Peter Stone (a descendant at the Trinidad) sets this story he end of the 18th Century, but didn’t know at the time of writing a that tax records show that on Richard Hazell had lived Stone Bequia before 1776; Mr. may have taken certain liberties an with the facts, but has written hero- entertaining account of the ism of one early colonist. set in (“Emancipation School”) is Bequia in the early 19th Century and taken from the autobiography of John Hercules Hazell, a grand- son of the shipwright Hercules Hazell. Contrary to local myth, the Hazell family at the time was struggling financially; 12-year-old John Hercules walked several miles each dawn to teach the Bible to slaves at Paget Farm. In return he was allowed an educa- tion from his uncle, the school- master and church clerk. While in this service — not a very lucrative one — my father would It must not, however, be supposed , which lasted three years. (In an odd coinci- very old lady with a large pair of spectacles on sought and obtained employment in the grocery and liquor store of sought and obtained employment in the grocery and when I commenced my own career in business BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF BY BOB REVIEW BOOK

The account ends suddenly with 14-year-old John going to sea and becoming so sea- The account ends suddenly with 14-year-old John going He later established a night school for adults. This volume contains 12 Caribbean stories by different authors. Most are non- by different authors. contains 12 Caribbean stories This volume for me, as their protagonists were great-some- Two stories had special resonance as is the self-deprecating The descriptions of Bequia at the time are fascinating, “Protect Me” vil- is the story of a bright eight-year-old Muslim boy living in a small In “A Cupful of Love”, Norma Sinclair recounts the true story of Grenadians John The post-WWII remembrances of childhood in Barbados are exquisitely rendered Ryhaan Shah’s “A Clouded Sun” tells the story of Aleyah, a young Guyanese girl in Under the Perfume Tree: Stories Weaving Patterns of Past Lives Tree: Stories Weaving Under the Perfume HUMAN HISTORIES HUMAN dence, this was a relative of Kelly Glass, St. Vincent’s cable TV founder and a natural- dence, this was a relative of Kelly Glass, St. Vincent’s cable Bajan Scottish merchant ized New Zealander.) John Hercules then worked for another until 1841, Alexander Glass, Esq, a Jewish Scotchman sick that he ruled out a life like his father’s. Instead, after a voyage to St. Thomas and sick that he ruled out a life like his father’s. Instead, after Barbados, he that this sacrifice in time from a boy of thirteen was from philanthropy. I may, per- that this sacrifice in time from a boy of thirteen was but there were little contri- haps, be entitled to take credit for a tinge of such feeling, as a stimulus and incen- butions of fruit, eggs, and occasionally a fowl, which served housekeeping. tive to teaching, and were found very useful as aids to her nasal organ…. She taught us the Lord’s Prayer and Ten Commandments in the her nasal organ…. She taught us the Lord’s Prayer and in large black letters, and vulgar tongue, and the alphabet, and to write “BA ba” back, with a three-pronged impressed each lesson upon the juvenile mind, or rather rusty from want of use. leathern strap, which had grown black from age, but not fiction and steeped in personal remembrance like a strong pot of tea. The quality of like a strong pot of tea. in personal remembrance fiction and steeped overall a to brilliantly evocative: from serviceable and sentimental writing varies brew. very satisfying and children. “Marooned by Pirates”thing grandfathers of my wife tells the rather to Hassell’s arrival on Saba and his subsequent move fanciful story of Hercules changed to Hazell. Dutchman Hercules Hassell may Bequia, where his name was in the manner the author states, but, if so, he wasn’t indeed have arrived on Saba humour of JH. His first teacher was a Judy Stone, Macmillan Education, paperback, 317 pages, with glossary. ISBN- 13: 317 pages, with glossary. Education, paperback, Judy Stone, Macmillan 978-1-4050-6518-4 an industrious old soul, kept be often [away] from home for months, and my mother, third son and fourth child, as house and brought up a large family, of whom I am the my father would from best she could, by sending out to the villagers the commodities not being on a very time to time bring home from foreign ports…. These “importations” of the strictest economy in the extensive scale rendered it necessary for the observance that each member of the management of our household and family affairs, and required there being no prospects of an family be early trained to the system of self-support, endowment fund being established in our family. lage in northern Trinidad in the late 19th century. Sanwar’s struggle with poverty and cultural identity are brought to life in this realistic and enlightening tale. “Dada” is the story of Granny, Prince, and Dada, three generations of an African family after Emancipation in rural Jamaica. Church, prayer, hard work, and a respect for eld- ers was the glue which held this society together. Taken from a novel by Beresford McLean, “Dada” is a slice-of-life account of the fictitious village of Albion. and Maria Bates. John was a local white lawyer who became a traveling judicial rep- resentative of the British Colonial Empire in the early 20th century. His family’s story is recreated in such detail that even though they were considered upper class at the time, the reader realizes that they had far more status than worldly goods. They moved often to neighboring islands as a consequence of John’s career. It must have been very difficult for this family of eight to have been uprooted so many times, but with each posting they seemed to surmount the difficulties of being in an unfa- miliar society, and they thrived despite some inter-island prejudice. in Ezra Griffith’s “Sing Ins, Brams and the Odd-Pedal” London, where she is enrolled in university after leaving her extensive Indian family for the first time. It is perhaps the best written story in this collection, due to Aleyah’s descriptions of longing for home while striving to find her true identity in a foreign land. of this selection is that it ends far too soon. I have tried to lobby Macmillan to find out where I could obtain the complete memoirs of John Hercules Hazell, to no avail. moved the family to Trinidad for economic reasons during the war, but they returned to Bim in 1946, when the author was five. These fond recollections of that period resonate with love as well as the nostalgia of a bygone era. NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 New SailLoft New SailLoft our appetizercooling intherefrigeratortoservewithcrispwater crackers. of creamcheese,added someseasoningsandWorcestershire sauceandquicklyhad shrimp tocook.Ichopped acupofthefishandshrimp masheditintoabrick made afishstockwith someofthefishscrapsandbones,then addedahandfulof and Yanifrom to useitthatwaymedium-rareisbetter. lots ofmayo,freshgratedsea-saltandpepper, toppedwithshreddedlettuce.IfIplan dream ofeating.Itisalsowonderfulused likecoldslicedbeefforasandwich,with well, refrigerateitovernight,andchop upforthebesttunasaladyoucouldever salad. Imarinateitforafewhoursinherbs andoliveoilthengrillitmedium- tuna atthesupermarketandinfinitely better. ThispieceIboughttomaketuna fin tuna.Itwasironicthatthisbeautiful fresh tunawasfarcheaperthanthecanned than weneededforourdinnerparty,but Icouldn’thelpmyself. “Five pounds,so35EC,”shetoldme.A mere US$13.46.Ihadpurchasedfarmore ed toseethefinaltally. pletely believethatIhadheardcorrectly,“alldefishsevenECperpound”,sowait- of fish,probablyabout60or70dollarsworthbackinFlorida.Istilldidnotcom- ished withbigcutsasthesteaksfellinastackonebyone.Itwashugeamount worn woodenclubandwhackedthehugeknifetocutthroughbonefin- deep cutsthateasilysliceddowntothebackbone.Shethenpickedupalargewell- She grabbedherrazor-sharpmacheteandbegantoslice.One,two,three,four,five of herrow. grabbed hermachetethatwasmuchlongerthanarm. poured outtoreplacearapidlydwindlingsupply. kinds ofreallybigfish,sharkandmarlin.Afreshbasketflyingfishwasbeing There werepilesofbrightredspottedsnappers,anchovies,fatroundsvarious comes outtoUS$2.64).Iwassuddenlyinthemoodbuyfish. ity yellow-fin. I’d heardoftheJapanesepayingusmuchas300USdollarsapoundforsushiqual- smelled likeIhadjustpulleditfromthedeepbluesea. fin tunaformyinspection. “Here isdetuna,itveryfresh,see!”andsheheldupaten-poundhunkoffreshyellow- snapper is!Deystillswimmin’.Veryfresh—smell.”Idid,anditwas. ico dresswithabrightpurplebandanawrappedtightlyaroundherhead. from thedeep. with sixorsevensmilingladiesoneachsidecallingmetocomeseetheirofferings fish, adeepsatisfyingsaltysmell.ThereweretwobanksofU-shapedvendor’sstalls, It isanewmodernbuildinganditlookedsqueakyclean.smelledlikefish,fresh dear sonJack,bludgeonedtodeathbyafatflyingmullet.Atleastitwasfresh. call fromastrangerinGrenadainformingherabouttheunfortunatedeathof mum velocity?Ouch!Itwouldbeashameformypoor87-year-oldmothertoget have beenliketoatwo-poundmullethitmeonthetopofmyheadatmaxi- long gone. mullet. Itmusthavebeenanospreytypeofbirdwhobombardedme,buthewas small fishintheirbillsbutI’veneverseenthemcarrysuchalargeasthissorry fast. Actually,Idoubttheculpritwasfrigatebird.I’veoftenseenthemcatch overhead severalhundredfeetabovewasamajesticblackfrigatebird,sansbreak- ing fromthegills.Iwashalfamilewaterfront.lookedup,andcircling draped overtheedgeofastep,was14-inchmullet,eyesbuggingoutandbleed- feet. Ijumpedback,duckedandtwirledallinthesamemotionsawthere, me backtoPricklyBayonthesouthshoreofGrenada. FOR FEASTING We hadinvitedouroldbuddiesfromLuperón intheDominicanRepublic,Chris I wentbacktothetunaladyandaskedfor atwo-poundhunkoffreshpinkyellow- She scribblednumbersonapieceofbrownpaperbagandshowedmehermath: I askedforfivesteaks,usingmythumbandforefingertoindicateoneinchthick. “She gotdeswordfishoverdey,”shewavedmetowardthetallwomanatend “Is thereanyswordfish?”Iasked,notreallythinkingcouldbethatlucky. “No, disshark,youwantsome?”atinywafer-thingrandmotherurgedasshe “Is thatmarlin?”Iasked,pointingtoahugetailsectionofsomething. This wasgoingtobefun.Iwalkedfromstallseewhatavailable. Hmmm, Ithoughttomyself,that’sonlyaboutUS$2.75apound!(Actuallyit “Ya, mon,alldefishsevenEC,”sherepeated. “All thefish?”Iquestioned,notbelievingheardcorrectly,thinkingaboutstories “All defishissevenECperpound,”sheanswered. “How muchisthetuna?”Iasked,heftinggreathunkoffishtomynose.It Her neighbor,alargeladywearingblackdresswithbrightpinkflowerssangout, To herrighttheplumpwomaninablackT-shirtsangout,“Lookhowfreshdem “I gotdefreshdolphin,fresh,comelook!”calledaskinnyyoungwomanincal- This hadbeenmyfirstvisittothefishmarketinGrenadaandIwasimpressed. I feltsorryforthepoormulletdeadatmyfeet.Butalsowonderedwhatitwould Suddenly somethingstreakedbymyheadandtherewasaloud“thud!” I FISH ENOUGH felt coolonmybackasIhikedupthesteephilltobusthatwouldtake purchased fromtheSt.George’sfishmarketdownonwaterfront.The had acanvassackthrownovermyrightshoulder.Itwasheavywithfishjust Magus by JackFoard and BigJohnCooper from Durban Dancer —Continued onnextpage —Continued , overfordinner.I NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 473 443 8783 VHF Channel 16 Aquanauts Dive Center www.truebluebay.com [email protected] Resort & Villas Indigo Car Rentals & Horizon Yacht Charters True Blue Bay Marina Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located in the south Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located marina and coast of Grenada and enjoy our full service and delicious fabulous accommodation. Caribbean cocktails Bar and dishes are a must at our waterside Dodgy Dock Lounge from Spice True Blue Restaurant. Located five minutes walk the airport. Island Marine Services and five minutes drive from Visit his website at web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2. Grilled Fish Steaks Tuna or swordfish work great! Fresh fish steaks, 1 inch thick Dried herbs such as an Italian blend Olive oil Salt and pepper to taste The fresh fish steaks you use should be at least one inch thick or they could dry Add salt and pepper to taste. Fish steaks should be slightly on the rare side as Serve with your favorite salsa on the side. Tuna Fish Salad 2 Cups flaked or chopped grilled tuna 3/4 Cup finely diced celery 1/2 Cup mayonnaise 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice Salt and pepper to taste Grill tuna as directed above, cool and chop or flake. Mix all ingredients together Tuna Steak Sandwiches Slice medium-rare grilled tuna steaks into 1/4 inch thick slices. Spread mayon- Captain Jack Foard is cruising the Caribbean aboard the Admiral 38 catamaran Seafood Cream Cheese Spread crackers or use it to stuff celery sticks. Try this with your favorite crisp cheese 1 eight-ounce package cream (e.g. fish, conch, shrimp — combination of any or all) 1 Cup chopped cooked seafood fresh parsley 1 heaping Tablespoon chopped 1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives 1 teaspoon dried dill 1 dash Worchesterchire sauce and cream cheese together well, then add the other Mash and mix the seafood Mango, Pear and Lentil Salsa grilled fish or meat. This salsa goes well with any 1 Cup diced mango 1 Cup diced pear well drained 1/2 Cup cooked green lentils, coconut 2 Tablespoons grated fresh 1 Tablespoon olive oil vinegar (other white vinegar could be used) 1 Tablespoon white basalmic parsley 1 Tablespoon chopped fresh 1 Tablespoon chopped fresh chives 1 teaspoon finely chopped hot peppers (optional) should be added just Mix all ingredients except the chives and parsley which The swordfish steaks I prepared the same way as the tuna, marinating it in Italian it in the tuna, marinating same way as I prepared the steaks The swordfish market I bought at the produce sliced up a bunch of the mangoes For dessert I talked and We stuffed ourselves as we was as good as it sounds. Yes, it really in Grenada. fish market while we are many trips to this wonderful I will be making ‘I will be making many trips to this wonderful fish market while we are in Grenada’ ‘I will be making many trips to this wonderful fish market out while cooking. Rinse and dry them, then coat liberally with olive oil and your favorite dried herbs. Set aside for 20 minutes to several hours. (Refrigerate if nec- essary.) Grill on well-oiled medium hot grill. they will continue to cook a little after you remove them from the grill. (If using for tuna salad, cook it through but don’t let it get dry.) in a bowl. Serve on crisp greens or use in sandwiches. naise on your favorite bread, layer with tuna, add salt and pepper to taste, top with crisp lettuce. Famous Potatoes. ingredients and mix until blended. Chill and serve. ingredients and mix until blended. before serving. Stores well for up to two days. herbs and olive oil. I made a fresh salsa with cooked green lentils, thinly sliced pear thinly sliced green lentils, salsa with cooked made a fresh olive oil. I herbs and in a coconut. I folded freshly grated of a few tablespoons mango. I added and diced and balsamic vinegar oil and white parts of olive with equal vinaigrette made simple fish. to the grilled the perfect accompaniment juice. It was of fresh lime a splash a yellow cake (I of fresh lime juice. I baked All I added was a drizzle the day before. scoop of mango big slices nestled up to a a cake mix) and served admit it, I used for a tasty and along the base of the plate a thick stripe of hot fudge and I smeared artistic final touch. night. laughed into the feet. and see what drops at my I could just stand around But then again —Continued page from previous NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 www.caribbeancompass.com Caribbean Compass In factanythingyoucanthinkof- ePaeBe aia Petite Calivigny BleuMarina, Le Phare Leathering SteeringWheels&Grabrails [email protected] Laying-up Covers&Dinghy Dave &JaneRoyce Exterior &InteriorUpholstery Dodgers, Biminis, Awnings, Stak-paks &Sailcovers, Tel/Fax (473)4432960 rnd,West Indies Grenada, On-line we haveitcovered! SCIENTIFIC SAILMAKING NEW L Agents for OCA TION ney, oras jam onbreadorbiscuits. Stir inbitters.Store in hotsterilejarsorrefrigerate. stantly, untilfruitbecomes clearandsyrupisthick. Add pommecythere and cinnamon.Boil,stirringcon- fork. Combinewater and sugarinasaucepanboil. a naccompanimentforbeeforchickenmain dishes. ing iftheconsistencyistoothin.Serve hot orcoldas Strain iftheconsistencyistoothick.Continue cook- hour withcontinuousstirringtomashupthefruit. spices totaste have metallids. boiling water.Itisbesttousecontainersthatdonot ing andburning. half untilthick.Stiroftentokeepchutneyfromstick- will blackenthechutney). stainless steelorcastironpanskillet(aluminum seed. Putfruitwithallotheringredientsinaheavy branes (morecanbeaddedtotaste) Thefruitisagoodsource ofvitaminC. fish andrice. ries. Indonesiansmakeadishwithsteamedleaves,salt slightly sourandareusedforflavoring,particularlycur- meat tenderizer.Pommecythereleavessmellgreat,are sauces andsoupscanbeusedlikepapayaasa of ripeness.) cythere isverypopularinAsia,andeatenatallstages can bemadeintochutneyorpickled.(Thepomme- a thickpreservesimilartoapplebutter.Unripefruits cinnamon orclovesthissaucecanbeslowlycookedto straining producesarichapple-typesauce.Byadding the ripefleshwithalittlewaterandsugarthen sweet. Itcanbefrozentomakeadeliciousice.Stewing the fleshchangesfromyellowtoorangeandbecomes why itisgreatforjuice.)Asthepommecythereripens ten percentissugarand85water,which (Pommecythere fruithave160caloriesper100grams: still firm,ityieldsadeliciousjuiceforcoldbeverages. pommecythere ispickedatthecorrecttime,ripebut taste andappearanceofthemango.However,if ed piercedliportongue. carefully suckedfromtheseedtoavoidanunwant- matures, sothesweetfullyripenedfruitshouldbe spiny seed.Thesespineshardenwhenthefruit Pommecythere’s maindistinguishingfeatureisits a crossbetweenmangoandpineapple. Jew orJuneplum,Jamaicanplumandmangojobo. ety ofothernamessuchasambarella,goldenapple, brought pommecytheretoJamaicain1782. and isnativetoPolynesiaMalaysia.CaptainBligh in Trinidad.ItisbelievedtohaveoriginatedTahiti usually onlyfoundinthesouthernislands,especially Caribbean, pommecythere(pronouncedpom-set-tey)is one ofthefruitsyoumaynothaveseenbefore.In Don’t beafraidtoaskandsample.Pommecythereis stand andjustdon’tknowwhattheyareortastelike? To serve,removeseeds anduseasyouwouldchut- Wash wholefruitandmakemanypricks initwitha 6 dropsAngosturabitters 1 stickcinnamon 1 Cupwater 1 Cupbrownsugar 1 poundpommecytherefruit Pommecythere Conserve Bring allingredientstoaboilandsimmerforone 2 Tablespoonsgroundcinnamon,clovesandother 1/2 Cupwater 5 poundsfruit,peeledwithseedsremoved Pommecythere FruitSauce Fill jarswhichhavebeensterilizedbyimmersingin Bring toaboilandthensimmerforanhour Thoroughly washfruit,peelandsliceawayfrom 5 wholecloves 1 Tablespoongroundcinnamon,orstickcinnamon 5 hotpeppers,cleanedofseeds,stemsandmem- 2 Tablespoonssalt 2 Cupsrefined(white)sugar 3 Cupsclearvinegar 2 Tablespoonsgratedfreshgingerroot 2 clovesmincedgarlic 1/2 poundgoldenraisins 2 poundspommecytherefruit,halfripe Pommecythere ChutneywithRaisins Pommecythere isalsoagoodflavoringingredientfor Pommecythere hassufferedbycomparisonwiththe The oblong,yellow-orangepommecytheretasteslike Pommecythere istheFrenchname,butithasavari- Ever seefruitsandvegetablesataCaribbeanveggie POMMECYTHERE SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL of themoon,goldenapplessun’ pluck tilltimeandtimesaredone,thesilverapples pommecythere fruitareworthyofW.B.Yeats:‘…and Called goldenapplesinmanyislands,these tainer andletsitforatleasttwodays. mecythere andmakecutsintotheflesh.Putcon- remaining ingredientsexceptforthefruit.Peelpom- Fill halfofyourcontainer,jarorbowl,withwater.Add eaten asasnackoranaccompanimenttootherfoods. planning tofill.) amount dependsonthesizeofcontaineryouare 200 pounds offruit. watering, amature tree shouldannuallybearabout nitrogen fertilizermix onceamonthwithregular ten ormore,andripen toagoldenskin.Usinghigh self-pollinate. Thegreen fruitwillappearinclustersof small whiteblossoms ofbothsexesform,whichcan and drop.Justastheseasonalrainsbegin, clustersof six feet.Duringthedryseasonleaves turnyellow types bearinonetotwoyearsataheight oflessthan These treesshouldbearinthreetofour years.Dwarf vest andsusceptibletodamagefrom highwinds. 40 feetormore,whichmakesthefruitdifficult tohar- reasonable height,otherwisetheywillgrow rapidlyto year. Thetreesshouldbetoppedtokeep themata Pommecythere treescangrowasmuch assixfeeta 15 feetapart,andawayfromfences or buildings. mature bananaplants.Theyshouldbespaced atleast to havethesmalltreesatleastpartiallyshadedby ed inholesbeddedwithwell-rottedmanure.Itisbest sprouts. Afterafewmonths,thesproutscanbeplant- take amonthtosprout.Eachseedproducesmultiple drained soil.Thetreescanbegrownfromseeds,which Soaked pommecythereisafavoriteofmine!Itcanbe 1/2 hotpepper,ortoyourtaste 5 bigclovesofgarlic,minced 1/2 teaspoongroundblackpepper 1 Tablespoonsalt 1/2 Cupwhitevinegar About adozenfull,butnotripe,pommecythere.(The Shirley’s SoakedPommecythere Pommecythere treesgrowwellinalltypesofwell- For theGardeners NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 , PM - 6 AM PORT OF ENTRY PORT OF HAPPY HOUR 5-6 HAPPY HOUR TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES MOORING BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS WATER, CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CREDIT CARDS CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE CARIBEE BATIK ... , Lunch is served 11:00 There is nothing general about Basil’s Call 784-488-8407 AM Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the s Mustique ’ Mustique and Choice Meats Sunday: 9am to 12pm Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali Call 784-457-2713 Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for as bright as the sea and as light as air... Fabrics VHF Ch 16 & 68 VHF Ch 16 Basil’s Bar (range limited by the hills) (range limited in the Grenadines. West Indies. and efficiently arranged. In St Vincent - near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cob- In St Vincent WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU WALLILABOU the island. www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) Monday-Saturday: 8am toMonday-Saturday: 12pm & 3pm to 6pm Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables Fine Wine, Cheeses, Corea P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, P.O. Box 851, THE FOOD STORE THE FOOD STORE Your #1 Choice for Provisioning Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. night Jump up and Wednesday BOUTIQUE BASIL’S women, men and children, For island evening and playful day wear. Elegant island joy. home. Basil’s Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. to take plus lots of T-shirts STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheeses from Europe, with fine French Great General Store - stocked 784-488-8407 Call foods in Paradise. sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. Fine FOREVER: ACROSS has and India - contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia. Shipping is easily Visitors to St Vincent are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors BAR: BASIL’S Air conditioned, and Bar. blestone building where you may find Basil’s Restaurant you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals, some of the best on Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique are Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S World’s Ten Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine and today lives up to that tradi- Ten World’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more renovated the new face of Basil’s tion. Recently and breakfasts. lunches Terrific offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. catch up on the web. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and January 23 - February Basil’s Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival, 6, 2008. Breakfast service begins at 8:00 Part One

PROSPERO’S PANTRY BY FENELLA PANTRY PROSPERO’S

STORED STORED ABOARD When you’re far out at sea, spending weeks at a remote anchorage, or just When you’re far out at sea, Veggie Curry people (with plenty of boiled rice it might even go This should serve about six and cut into bite-size pieces 2 potatoes and 2 carrots, peeled 1 can of sweet corn, drained 1 can of peas or beans, drained 2 Tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric (more if you want the curry hotter) 1/2 teaspoon chili powder 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon powdered coriander 1 teaspoon mustard seeds (If you have a can 1 fourteen-ounce can of chopped tomatoes and their liquid. them right in the can!) of whole tomatoes just take your scissors and slice 1 can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed 1 can of chickpeas/garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed 6 Tablespoons (3 fluid ounces) water version) 1 fourteen-fluid-ounce can coconut milk (I use the “lite” Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Fresh coriander/cilantro (if available) if you have other cans This recipe does not have to be adhered to exactly, so water and cook for Add the potatoes and carrots to a pan of boiling, salted until they are trans- Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the onions and cook to ten minutes, stir- Turn the heat up quite high and cook the curry for five making sure the Add the coconut milk and cook for only three minutes, sprinkled Serve over boiled rice with a little chopped fresh coriander/cilantro Creamy Spinach get a loud “Yuk!” As a child I couldn’t stand spinach; even the smell would 1 fourteen-ounce can of spinach 1/2 Cup of sour cream, fat free or normal tube! (Or you 1/2 Cup of those ready fried onions that come in a cardboard to use up.) can fry your own if you have some fresh ones you want as possible (I put the Drain the spinach well and squeeze out as much liquid Mix the spinach and the sour cream together in an ovenproof dish and bake Always a good stand-by, those cans of whole (new) potatoes don’t have to be Onion Roasted Potatoes 6 fourteen- or sixteen-ounce cans whole potatoes, drained, rinsed and dried 1 packet onion soup mix 1/2 Cup (4 ounces) melted butter Garlic powder and black pepper to taste Heat oven to 350°F (180°C). Cut the larger potatoes in half. Place potatoes Caramelised Potatoes 1 fourteen or sixteen ounce can whole potatoes, drained, rinsed and dried 2 Tablespoons butter 1/2 Cup (3 1/2 ounces) brown sugar Melt the butter in a frying pan/skillet. Add the sugar and stir over heat till it feeling lazy, open a tin/can of whatever you have Stored Aboard and have your- feeling lazy, open a tin/can self an easy, tasty meal! of using up end-of-cruise supplies. further) and is a great way to use up) or you don’t of veggies (or even some cans of meat or fish you want have some of the above, no problem — just mix and match. water and turn off the about five minutes. Add the corn and peas to the boiling and cover them to heat. Allow them to sit for a minute, then drain the veggies keep warm. chili powder, cumin, parent, about five to seven minutes. Add the turmeric, and cook for about one coriander and mustard seeds, stir them into the onions beans to the minute. Add the tomatoes, kidney beans, chickpea/garbanzo carrots, corn and onions and spices. Stir together. Add the drained potatoes, peas. Mix well and add salt and pepper to taste. five minutes. ring frequently. Lower the heat and cook for another coconut milk doesn’t curdle or separate. over the top. any which way! Here’s a from me. But now I adore it, raw in a salad or cooked that I love — and I feel nice quick easy recipe, using up canned/tinned spinach, a side dish, but to serve sure so would Popeye. This will serve four people as more just double or treble the amounts. wring it out). spinach in a clean piece of muslin or cotton fabric and for about 30 minutes at 325°F (170°C), or if you have a microwave, you can heat it in that. Once it is piping hot, top with the onions and serve. as boring as they look. For example, you can drain and wash them to use in a potato salad. Here are two more ideas to bring them to life. Both the potato recipes are good accompaniments for roast meats as a change from ordinary roast or baked potatoes. in a mixing bowl along with the onion soup mix and garlic powder and pep- per to taste. Pour on the melted butter and mix well until all the potatoes are coated. Pop them into a greased oven dish or baking tray and bake until crisp and brown. bubbles. Let it carry on cooking till it starts to turn brown and caramelise, keep- ing a close eye on it so it doesn’t burn. Add the potatoes and cook them for about four minutes stirring continuously, until they are heated through. NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 to findquietanchoragesfarfrom“TheMadding Crowd”. are notdescribedintheotherguides.Thisenables them anchorages thatarepopularwithbareboaters. pictures anddescribehotels,bars,restaurants and describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonly onesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Flyingfish VenturesLtd Marine Survey throughout theCaribbean throughout Marine Survey PURCHASE –INSURANCE-DAMAGE Accreditation - American Boatand Yacht Council ARE MOREECONOMICAL! www.iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com CARRIACOU REALESTATE Marine Surveyors,Grenada Real sailorscircleinStreet’sGuidetheanchorages that Real sailorsalsobuytheotherguides,that have pretty Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes Tel: (473)4438182 Fax:(473)4438290 Property ManagementonCarriacou [email protected] BUY STREET’SGUIDES Tel: Grenada (+1473)4074388 Grenada Tel: cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico e-mail: [email protected] at bookshopsand chandleries, orfrom or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing Society of Accredited MarineSurveyors Y OceanYachtmaster(Commercial) RYA We alsohandleVilla Rentals& STREET’S GUIDES Accredited MarineSurveyor Accredited Bob Goodchild the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. Land andhousesforsale Street’s Guidesare available REAL SAILORS down throughtheislandsand www.islandvillas.com Down IslandLtd Dear Dear UK Simon Julien Regards, and pointsoutthestupidity! Compass CARICOM forclarification.Itisvitalthat No responsehasbeenreceivedformyrequeststo refers onlytopassenger-carryingshipsandaircraft. you quoteinthenewsupdateSeptemberissue Does itreallyapplytoyachts,asyousay?Thewebsite operated cruisingandnon-passenger-carryingboats. recently appearstobeutternonsenseforprivately reporting procedurewhichyouhavehighlighted the October Dear S/V GypsyWind Ron Oxford island governmentsinvolved. to dothis,includingpassingtheinformationon one elsemightseeitasvalidandhavearealideahow how toimplementsuchanidea,butamhopefulsome- ment statingthatthislawisabadidea.I’venoidea cruisers tobandtogetherandputnamesadocu- realize, though,that’saprettytallordertogetallthe could putadeadstoptothisnonsensealtogether.I cruising communitywereabletobandtogether,we in themain,but,ammoreinclinedtothinkthatif terrorists, but,intheCaribbean,Idon’tthinkso. I supposeitcouldtheoreticallybepossibletoimport may bearealisticideaforlargepassengerships,where even seemreasonabletonon-sailors.Icanagreethatit rorist risk?Givemeabreak.Thatconceptcouldn’t crewed byahusbandandwifebeconsideredaster- think thata(relatively)smallboatwhichistypically which couldseriouslyaffecttheireconomies. that poorly-thought-outlawwillbeaseriousmistake, done toeducatethesegovernmentsthatapplicationof may affectmycruisingplans,somethingneedstobe any ofittomeanmuch.Nowrealizinghowseriously only heardvaguerumblingsandhadn’treallytaken their biggestindustry)mightsuffer. loss intouristdollars(thatwhichmostcasesis governments ofthoseislandswouldnotrecognizethe require suchAPIdocumentation,Iwonderthatthe cruisers wouldnolongervisitthoseislandswhich ing thisidiotidea.Iftheteethinpollwasthat(we) website, wherecruiserscouldsignapetitiondenounc- to thewrongthisiscausing,orwillcause.Perhapsa to figureoutawaythatallofuscruiserscanputvoice job yourselves.Myintentioninwritingtoyouistry reasons thisisastupidlaw;youdidprettythorough the current system’sunworkability forthemajority of was passedby“the powersthatbe”withoutrealizing criminals —isgood. However, itseemsthatlegislation Dear Simon,Ronand Steve, S/V Certitude Steve Penny and Heart-felt gratitudefromthecruisingcommunity to local journalistwhostruckthematchand litthefire. your articlewasthecatalystforchange, butitwasa Penny Tyasforcomingforthoriginally. I realizethat brought thekettletoaboil. great debtofgratitude.Youstoked the fireand regarding yachts.Theentirecommunity owesyoua that AntiguaandBarbudaaresuspendingAPISas The CARICOMAdvancePassengerInformation(API) I justreadwithintenseoutragethearticleonAPIin Maybe wecanputastoptothissilliness. I readChrisDoyle’sarticlealso,andagreewithhim Cruisers arenotterrorists.Howcouldanyoneeven Prior toreadingyourverywell-writtenarticle,Ihad The intentionofAPI — todetectterroristsandother I wouldliketoexpressmygreatestgratitude to It cametomyattention,yesterday(October18th), Compass Compass Compass (whom weallrelyon)getsstuckintothis Compass

Compass Readers’ Forum , , , . . There’snoneedtoreiteratethe Caribbean later anotherofourfriends, at [email protected]. voluntarily fileafloatplanwiththePortCaptain’soffice Colombian CoastGuardsuggeststhatvisitingyachts filed afloatplanofourjourney.[ S/V Geremar search andquestioningtheywerehappytoknowthat boarded byyourCoastGuard.Afterashortperiodof fellow boats, shortly afterenteringColombianwaters,oneofour other sailingvesselsandinthemiddleofnight in yourcountry: Colombian waterssinceearlyMay. provided inensuringoursafetyandsecuritywhile the excellentserviceCoastGuardandNavyhave Dear CaptainLocarno, Colombian CoastGuard Open LettertotheCommandantof CC on page7. implications totheirmembers’livelihoods.Seee-addresses marine tradesassociations,whoarewellawareofthe them knowofyourconcerns.Youcanalsocontactthelocal writing totherelevantMinistriesofTourismandletting by yachtingvisitorsandstakeholdersphoning,e-mailingor rently legislated,couldadverselyimpacttheireconomies,is ernments involvedknowhowtheAPIrequirements,ascur- suggests, andweagree,thatthebestwaytoletgov- http://safetyandsecuritynet.com/NEWS.html. ChrisDoyle www.doyleguides.com/apis_regulations.htm and we knowthemareoutlinedonpages6and7. Antigua &Barbuda.Aswegotopress,thefactsasbest yet receivedofficialconfirmationofthesuspensionin steps todosoaswegopress,althoughhavenot be made.Wehearthatsomegovernmentsaretaking the EasternCaribbean’syachttourismindustry. yachts andtheresultantpotentialforseveredamageto Colombia Cartagena deIndias Cuerpo Guardacostas ArmadaNacional Caribbean Coastguard Commander Commander Germán HumbertoLocarnoBlanco Attentively, able seasandinsurance.” try tofulfillliterally:“Safelives,safeships, sustain- and encourageusallthemoretocomplete ourwork. sea. Yourwordsstrengthenus,fillus with emotion, the livesofallwhoworkandenjoythemselves onthe plete ourassignedmissiontoprotectand guarantee Coast Guardconsideritveryimportant that wecom- kind words.WeoftheColombianNavy’sCaribbean Dear Mr.Drury, S/V AllwaysSunday Drury Porteous Yours truly, appreciated byallvisitorsandcruisersalike. your country.Keepupthegoodwork,itisverymuch Guard andallthesecurityforcesinCountry. Bogotá andinCartagena.ArealcredittotheCoast felt threatenedinanyofourtravelsColombia,to Coast Guardcrewnearby.Moreover,wehavenever able andsecureknowingthattherewasalwaysa without incident.Allofthistosaywefeltsocomfort- work thattheCoastGuardperforms. inspect ourboatsandcompletethenecessarypaper were thenmetbyanothergroupofyourfinemento notified theCoastGuardofourintentionsandwe mitted tostayfortheappropriateweatherwindow. negotiation andunderstandingbyyourcrewwewereper- advised thatwehad24hourstomoveon.Aftersome your courteousgentlemenoftheCoastGuardand in plans.Hence,wewereallboardedandsearchedby plan andwefailedtonotifytheCoastGuardofourchange Marta) andholdupthereforbetterweather. (Puerto Velero)sowedecidedtogoRodadero(Santa to continuethenextlegofourjourneyPuntaHermosa decide tomoveonwefoundtheseasbeunfavourable ing foraweatheropportunitytocontinue.Whenwedid flotilla. WestayedinBahiaGuayracaforthreedayswait- cled manytimesasitidentifiedallofthevesselsin once againinvestigated,thistimebyahelicopterthatcir- once thewholefleethadarrivedandanchoredwewere down, evaluatedthegroupofeightandmovedon. Guard vesselpassednearbytheanchoredfleet,slowed large flotillawasallthesamegroup. crew. Onceagaintheydeparted,satisfiedthatthis was similarlyapproachedbyyourfineCoastGuard We crossedfromArubatoCabodelaVelawitheight I wouldliketodescribethereasonwefeelsosecure I wantedtotakethisopportunityinformyouof There areregularupdatesonthissituationat We hopeitispossibleforappropriateamendmentsto Thank youverymuch. We hopeyouandyourshipmatesreturnto our country. In theCaribbeanCoastGuardwehave a mottowe We receivedyourletterandareverygratefulfor Thank youformakingusfeelsosafeandwelcomein The nextdayweproceededtoCartagenaandarrived On ournextlegtoPuntHermosa,wearrivedand This wasafineanchoragebutitnotonourfloat We thenmovedontoFiveBays(BahiaGuayraca)and Shortly afterarrivinginCabodelaVelaaCoast was oneoftheeightvesselsthathad S/V Geremar —Continued onnextpage —Continued , wasapproachedand ] Aboutonehalfhour S/V CommonCrossing Editor’s note:The , NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 business insurance SAIL cell: 340-513-3147 cell: 340-513-3147 POWER e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: 340-0714-6271 office: it is too late. it is too www.maritimeyachtsales.com fax: 340-777-6272 Marine Fax DM Street or unsatisfactorily settled, Then, if the claim is denied Insurance www.street-iolaire.com insurance is until you have a claim. have you is until insurance The insurance business has changed. insurance The insurance, is no good cheap but there There is good insurance,There is cheap there Rather, can only say, the honest broker No longer can brokers talk of low rates. talk of low No longer can brokers insurance.You never know how good your how know never insurance.You “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” your minimize best to “I’ll do my settlement record cannot be beat. Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 or e-mail: [email protected] I have been in the 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI Boatyard St. Thomas, Independent 47 Stevens, 1981Oceanis , 1994 44 Beneteau 1978 44 CSY walkover, 1995 42 Hunter Passage, 199642 Catalina MKII, $ 185,000 41 Formosa Ketch, 1975 40 Passport Sloop, 1981 $ 79,000 38 Morgan/Catalina, 1996 1977/2002 refit 37 Gulfstar, $ 99,000 37 C&C, 1985 $ 159,000 36 Frers, 1985 $ 85,000 $ 195,000 198834 Tartan, $ 84,000 $ 119,000 $ 119,000 32 Bristol Sloop, 1976 55 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 198050 Marine Trader, $ 25,000 2003 45 Silverton MY, 42 Hershine Trawler 42 Cruisers Express, 1999 41 Sea Ray Express, 2001 37 Fountaine Pajot Power Cat 399,000 $ $ 329,000 hp 29 Proline, 1995 twin 225 $ 48,600 40,000 $ $ 48,500 27 Grady White, 1997 $ 49,000 $ 249,000 $ 139,000 $ 245,000 $ 425,000 $ 45,000 $ 40,000 —Continued on next page and when we stepped onto the pier we and when we stepped onto , AM Compass As I write this I am in St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands, I got caught up in a legal trap that is immoral and I We traveled to many countries experiencing their Would it be possible for the St. Lucian government After a decade-long moratorium on sea-turtle fishing, Turtles cannot be caught at all within the marine Although all species of sea turtles found in the For a wealth of information on sea turtle conservation We had a wonderful holiday in St. Lucia and we were We had a wonderful holiday Large sea turtles caught in St. Lucia last month waiting for my passport and bail money to be returned. I have been jailed for three days, detained for 151 days, posted US$100,000 bail, spent $10,000 in attorney fees, and was fined $18,000. I don’t think I will be back any time soon. This is no paradise. believe illegal. endangered species! What further baffled us is that Soufriere apparently lies in the midst of St. Lucia’s Marine Park, as we were told by our taxi driver. cultures, which we much appreciate and respect. We don’t dare to impose our way of life onto others. However, we believe that Soufriere’s fishermen don’t rely on turtle meat to sustain their livelihoods and St. Lucia, as part of the international community, has an important role to play in the conservation of nature, at least on a regional scale. Sea turtles are ancient crea- tures traveling great distances, exposed to many dan- gers and the destruction of their feeding and breeding grounds. They mature and reproduce very slowly, hence the incident witnessed today must have serious negative consequences further afield. to review its conservation policies? It would be a sad day for St. Lucia and humanity in general to lose these magnificent creatures forever. We would love to return to this beautiful island with our friends, enjoying unspoiled nature in a sustainable environment. Sincerely, Adrian and Heather Johnston Dear Adrian and Heather, St. Lucia re-introduced turtle-fishing seasons (currently October 1st to February 28th) a few years ago, with restrictions on size and catch methods. reserves of the SMMA; neither are gill nets, which are often used to catch these creatures, allowed within the SMMA. We have received information that the turtles you saw were caught outside the SMMA. Caribbean are considered endangered, they can still be legally caught (within the applicable fisheries regula- tions) in some countries, such as St. Lucia and St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Other neighboring countries forbid turtle fishing entirely, and Barbados, for exam- ple, has an exemplary turtle conservation program. in the Caribbean, we recommend contacting the Wider Turtle Conservation Network, WIDE- CAST. Their website (www.widecast.org) is currently under construction, but the director, Dr. Karen Eckert, can be reached at [email protected]. CC Dear were greeted by horror! Just a few yards away by the were greeted by horror! Just large sea turtles. roadside, fishermen were slaughtering individuals of these We counted about a dozen captured Virgin Islands over the last few years without it having without years few the last over Islands Virgin of unfair sentence the grossly reiterated by to be fishing industry. related to the not at all someone BVI aware of the fishermen are not all of our Most if law. to obey the and most try license law, fishing nor is fisherman, a commercial Baker is not Richard penalize a recreational fisherman. To he a serious had basically means because he cruiser of modest the fray is outrageously unjust. stumbled into Paige Santiago-Passano USVI St. Thomas, and similar For more information on this Editor’s note: incidents see www.virginislandsdailynews.com/index.pl/article_ho me?id=17616056. Dear Compass, trip along the coastline looking forward to a catamaran of October. We arrived at to Soufriere on the 2nd around 10:45 on Monday evening. They were in PM , , , , which is registered in the USVI. They were Compass Compass Compass We are French cruisers who have been sailing for been sailing who have French cruisers We are have which to difficulties to draw attention We’d like gather that in the different guides, we After research for half 72 arbitrarily occupied Why then, is Channel and have the deepest I am retired, 68 years old, for information about Readers have recently asked insurers who will provide There are many reputable Please remember that the cheapest policy is not I also suggest that if you are storing your boat on On Monday, September 24th, St. Thomas residents They were escorted to Road Town and not formally Richard and Debbie are a very nice semi-retired cou- Magistrate Valerie Stevens implied at Richard’s sen- Dear Dear more than seven years through more than 30 different through more seven years more than countries. Curaçao, anchorage of Spanish Water, arisen in the use of VHF radio. regarding the with inter- in Curaçao, in accordance the authorities VHF have restricted boat-to-boat national regulations, 8, 72 and 77. the following channels: 6, radio traffic to entire- every morning by a transmission, an hour or so “The Net”? in English, which is baptized ly and solely 72 dur- wants or needs to use Channel If anyone else risk of a severe scolding or ing that time, they run the How have some cruisers even more serious threats. channel for their own use? been allowed to hijack this of the countries I visit. respect for the rules and laws should be respect for the I think that equally, there put at our disposal in the means of communication some cruisers are tak- countries we visit. The liberties tensions and conflicts ing with VHF radio are creating Will official action by the in our little community. to return serenity to the authorities have to be taken Water? beautiful anchorage of Spanish Sign me, A VHF User, Too Caribbean. In answer to insurance for yachts in the their queries I submit: coverage for a sailboat both afloat and on the hard. Any good insurance agent or broker who writes yacht business should be able to direct you to them. always the best, and you should read a pro forma copy of the policy before you buy — I know it’s boring, but not everything is covered. the hard in the islands, you should be certain that (1) damage from rats and other vermin is covered, (2) that the policy does not have any unrealistic require- ments regarding the earth surface on which the ves- sel is stored and securing of the jack stands, and (3) conditions for a covered theft claim are realistic. I have seen several claims in which a vessel stored on the hard had its interior (wiring, food, electronic com- ponents, cushions, furnishings, head liner, etcetera) devastated by rats who somehow found a way to get inside, and have seen policies which have unrealistic requirements regarding securing the vessel while on the hard. Good sailing, Guy Matthews S/V Quite Nice Deborah Barton and Richard Baker were out for a day on the water on their 36-foot liveaboard trawler, Mambo trolling with a cheap spinning reel and light tackle when they were boarded by Conservation and Fisheries in the British Virgin Islands and arrested for illegal entry and fishing without a license. charged until 7:30 —Continued page from previous Dear ple of modest means. Richard is a former US Army paratrooper and is retired from the Washington DC Police Department. They were relatively new to boat- ing and have often made jokes about their inability to fish. The sentence that Richard received was harsher than any received thus far by any of the commercial fishermen who have faced the same charges in the BVI. Debbie is probably going to have to cash in an IRA, the only money that either of them has set aside for their retirement, in order to get Richard out of jail. Whether or not the fine is paid and Richard is released, this event will have a lasting negative impact on their future and their future financial stability. tencing that she wanted to send a message to the USVI that too many US Virgin Islanders are fishing in the British Virgin Islands and that it needs to stop. This message was made all too clear to US Virgin Islands’ fishermen by actions taken by the British court facing the magistrate at 9:30 the following morn- ing. There were virtually no business hours between the time that they were charged and when they were in court for them to have contacted a barrister. Being by nature very honest people and not understanding the penalty that they were facing, Richard and Debbie pleaded guilty to the charges. Debbie was found guilty of illegal entry and fined US$1,000. Richard was found guilty of illegal entry and fishing without a license. The combined fine for Richard was US$46,000. In lieu of the $46,000, Richard was sentenced to 12 months in prison in Tortola. Richard is now (October 4th) in a high secu- rity cell in Her Majesty’s Prison in Tortola. NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 Carenantilles DockyardLEMARIN A&C YACHTBROKERS Port deplaisanceduMARIN Voiles Assistance Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) E-mail: [email protected] Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm www.acyachtbrokers.com - Breakfast(Coffee,Croissants)FishingItems Open 7amto7pmSundays:1pm Tel: +596747094 Fax:+596747808 BOATS FORSALE e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard - Fuel/Diesel/GasLaundryCallStation - GroceryIceCigarettesColdDrinks tel/fax: (596)596748832 Saturday byappointment MARTINIQUE Didier andMaria Conveniently locatedat Mobile: +696292812 B B Full ServiceStation: I I C M C M H H A A I I R R K K T T

I S I S N N E E I I R R Q Q V V U U I I C C E E E E S S S/V Novatrix Wayne Lenoir arrested. Inmycase itdid. what doyoudo?A wrongdecisioncouldgetyou notice atCustoms, or anythinginprintasguidance, Customs forsurrender, othersforbidit.Withouta countries requireboaterstocarrytheir gunsto discover theUSVIgunregistrationrequirement. Some notices atthemarinas.Boatersareleft tochance mitting wasinprint:nonoticesat Customs, no being arrested? Government aboutgunregistrationwithout riskof How doesatransientboaterapproach theUSVI been arrestedifyouhadtriedtoregister yourguns”. ecutor, said,“Bythislegalwordingyou wouldhave for gunregistration.Myattorney,aformer USVIpros- place ofbusinesswithintheVirginIslands”toapply in theUSVI.Youmusthavea“bonafideresidenceor defined atCustomsclear-in? Internet todiscovercriticallawsandrequirementsnot tion requirement:youcouldhavesearchedtheInternet.” should haveknownthattherewasaUSVIgunregistra- unimpressed bytheirmerit,ultimatelystating,“You the USVI. gun makesnosenseforcruiserspassingthrough are required)toactuallypossessyourregistered to applyforaseparatepermit(threelocalreferences And, paying$75toregisteragunandthenhaving Customs Form(theoneusedforUSVIclear-in). with spacesforgundeclarations,versustheUS given examplesofothercountries’Customsforms, make nomentionofUSVIgunregistration.Hewas procedure todefinetherules;theircruisingguides explained thatboatersrelyontheCustomsclear-in time forsentencing.ThePre-SentenceReport if youmakeanotherrequest.” enough toassurethatyouwillreturnforsentencing, enough forme.Healsosaidthat“$100,000isnot boats werewillingtostayinSt.Thomasitwasgood travel wasdeniedbecausethejudgefeltthatifother not validatthislatitudesinceJuly1st.Myrequestto my retirementnetworthandstorminsuranceis explained thatmysailboatrepresentsalargepartof Hurricane DeanwasaimingattheVirginIslands.I hearing, Irequestedpermissiontotravelbecause My attorneyencouragedacceptingthepleaoffer. the judgeacceptsprosecutor’srecommendations. of myshotgun.Iwastoldthat99percentthetime the judgea$5,000finewithnojailtimeandreturn Register Firearms,theprosecutorwouldrecommendto deal. ItstipulatedthatifIpledguiltytoFailure the ATFAgent,afirst-classindividual,Iwasoffered ecutor andmyattorney,someencouragementby as towhyhepursuedthatroute. refused. IbrokenoUSFederalLaws!amstillpuzzled US FederalGovernmenttopresscharges,butthey mum penaltieschargedtome.Twicehetriedgetthe accepted in30StatesandbytheUSVIGunLaws. my FloridaConcealedWeaponsPermitwhichis sentences andheavyfines,completelydisregarding Firearms Possessionthatcarriesmandatoryprison Prosecutor’s OfficequicklyuppedthechargestoIllegal Firearms. However,theover-zealousUSVI (O.J. Simpsononlypaid$125,000forarmedrobbery). However, thejudgedemandeda$100,000cashbail attorney agreedthat$3,500bailwasappropriate. served nogoodpurpose.AUSVIprosecutorandmy days. Thearrestingofficerapologized;heknewit later, onMay22,Iwasarrestedandjailedforthree ty, andIhadcauseforpossessingmyguns.Weeks were satisfiedthatIposednothreattothecommuni- Safety Inspection. authorities confiscatedmygunsfollowingaUSCG ing theranchhousewasstandard. ranches inMontanawherecarryingagunwhenleav- trained touseavarietyoffirearms.Igrewupon ownership. Iwasinanelitearmyairborneunitand Weapons Permitasevidenceofmyresponsiblegun Association andhaveavalidFloridaConcealed ligence. IamamemberoftheNationalRifle is required.Myproblemherewasnotduetomyneg- onboard. Iregisterorsurrendermygunswheneverit decreasing.] Actually overthepastyearinCaribbean,it’sbeen Caribbean andelsewhereisincreasing. problem andviolentcrimeagainst“cruisers”inthe lifelong dreamofsailingtoexoticplaces.Piracyisa gize. Ithinktheydeservebetter. USVI waterstobevictimizedbythiswell-hiddengunlaw. frompreviouspage —Continued I amsurethatnotthefirstsailboatcruiserentering Nothing relatingtoUSVIgunregistration andper- A transientboatercannotlegallyregisterafirearm Is itreasonabletoexpectvisitorssearchthe I wasfined$18,000.Nogunswerereturned. The judgelistenedtoourargumentsandexamples, On September21st,Ifacedthejudgeagain,this So, Imadethechangeofplea,and,atsame After alotofbackroomnegotiationbetweenthepros- The USVIProsecutortriedeverywaytogetmaxi- I wasoriginallychargedwithFailuretoRegister I wasnotarrestedbecausetheinvestigatingofficers On April24,2007inSt.Thomas,ATFandlocal Since sellingmybusinessin2001,Ihavepursueda Virgin Islandersaregoodpeople.TothemIapolo- For thesereasonsIcarryfirearms [Editor’s note: Holland Koen AltenaandErwin Herber Caribbean chandleries. www.caribbeanyachting.info. given awaybylottery.Pleasegoto our website: bag oraXantrexpowercharger.These prizes willbe chance towinseveralprizeslikeaBlue performance help tous! only takefiveminutesofyourtimeand isagreat our surveyyet,pleasemakesureto do so.Itwill thy weneedmoreinput.Soifyouhave notfilledout this survey,buttomaketheresultsmore trustwor- service destination.Wehavesomeparticipants on it isthatyachtsmenlookforinagoodyachting With theresultsofthissurveywewillfindoutwhat storage andmaintenance/repair. point istheyachtingservicesector,meaningyacht (lower) Caribbeanyachtingindustry.Ourmainfocal dents fromHollandwearedoingresearchonthe and ErwinHerbert,asfourth-yearmarketingstu- www.caribbeanyachting.info. have helpedusbyfillingoutoursurveyat work wasdifficult,buteventually agreed topayiftheoperationwassuccessful.The vacuum thesandfromaroundkeels.Again,I equipment cameandsaidthatforEC$7,000hecould would beamiracletofreetheboat.Amanwith the starboardkeelwasnowburieddeepinsand;it next hightide,at2330hours.By1800Irealizedthat many linesandthegalleyhatch.Wewouldwaitfor off. Aftermanytries,Idecidedtostop,havingbroken som, butthebilgesweredry. paint andgelcoatdamage,damagetoonetran- the afternoon. and saidtheywouldreturnatthenexthightide,in they gotusfree.Theytried,butwithnosuccess, to helpbutdemandingEC$2,000.Iagreedpayif up agroundagain. hours, wegotfree,butinthepitchdarkended return toshowustheway.Athightide,at0225 kedge off.Thewatertaxidriversaidhewould sand. Idecidedtowaituntilhightidetry side. Theboatwasrestingonaplateauofcoral came tohelpandcarriedananchorouttheport onto thereef. dislodged theanchorandweendedupdragging motors toeasethestrainonchain,aviolentgust up to45knots,withrain.AlthoughIstartedthe two metresofwater.Intheevening,windpicked ran Clifton Harbour,UnionIsland,aboardthecatama- Dear Jean-Michel Corbinaud for Guadeloupe. tected meuntilthefollowingmorningwhenIdeparted was returnedtome. a receiptandtheUS$10,000“debtacknowledgment” ed metothebank,whereweobtainedmoney.Igot extremely fatiguingdays,Iaccepted.Thepoliceescort- offered tosettleforUS$7,000.Atthispoint,aftertwo ed backtotheboatbyofficers. and tocontacttheFrenchEmbassy.Wewereescort- police protection,tolodgeacomplaintforextortion, now payUS$30,000,Iaskedtobeplacedunder harm bysomeofthewatertaxidriversifwedidnot inconclusive. Havingbeenthreatenedwithphysical lator confirmedthis.Themeetingwas,however, had writtenonitinFrenchwhensigningit.Atrans- debt acknowledgmentwassignedunderduress,asI the watertaxis.Withwitnesses,weprovedthat Customs, Immigrationandtworepresentativesof not believeweowedthemUS$10,000. if theywantedtomakeacomplaint,becausewedid AYC, wetoldthemtheyshouldgotothepolicestation Yacht Club.Whenthewatertaxidriversarrivedat to phonethepolice.Thepolicetoldusremainat Anchorage YachtClub,whereIaskedthemanageress from somewatertaxis,wemoved signed it,thecrowddispersed.Despiteinterference paper thatIwasonlysigningitunderduress.Once US$10,000 debtacknowledgment.Iwroteonthe Resort’s serviceboat. and weweretowedtothepontoonbyPalmIsland Dear minutes ofgettingthecheckIwillbesailingtoTrinidad. check willnotbeavailableuntilnextWednesday.Within Thank youforyour cooperation. This surveyissupported byBudgetMarine One ofourresearchmethodsisanon-linesurvey. In caseyouhavenotheardofus,weareKoenAltena First wewouldliketothankalltheyachtsmenthat At 1400,sevenwatertaxiscameandtriedtopullus In themorningIexaminedboat:therewassome The watertaxireturned,withtwoothers,toolate When thewindandrainsubsided,awatertaxi On themorningofAugust10thwearrivedin The policeescortedmebacktotheboatandpro- The watertaxiscamebacklaterwiththepoliceand A meetingwasthenarrangedwithajudge,police, At thepontoon,about20peopleforcedmetosigna Ifinallygotmypassportback,butthebailrefund PS If youparticipateinourresearch, will havea El Paseo Compass Compass , andanchoredwithplentyofchainin , Readers, El Paseo El Paseo was freed to the NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 $47K $69K ’87 $125K ’77 $367K Solid Cruiser ’76 Lowest on Market’00 1 cab/1 hd $120,000 POWER 50’ 1968 Columbian Sloop 50’ 1968 Columbian MULTIHULLS Northshore Vancouver 32, Sloop/Cutter, Hatteras Yachtfish, 3 cab/3 hd, AC, Genset, 450HP 40’ Passport 40, 2 cab/2 hd40’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab/2hd, Well Priced40’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/2 hd39’ Tollycraft Fast Passage Cutter, 2 cab/1 hd ’00 $112K 39’ Corbin, Ketch CC, 2 cab/2 hd38’ Morgan 38 CC, Sloop, 2 cab/1 hd ’83 $125K 37’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/1hd, Motivated36’ S2 11.0A, 1 cab/1 Qtr berth/1 hd36’ Tiburon, Cutter/Ketch 1cab/1hd 36’ Beneteau M362, 2 Cab/1hd, ’00 $109K 35’ Beneteau Moorings 351, 2 cab/1 hd35’ Beneteau 351 Oceanis, 2 cab/1 hd ’9935’ O’Day, 2 cab/1 hd, Great Condition $109K ’9833’ Beneteau 331, Sloop, 2 cab/1 hd $99K ’8832’ ’85 $199K $125K ’85 ’94 $49K $50K ’95 ’87 $59K $38K ’01 $59K ACANCIES! $349K Sail Power 46’ Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4 cab/4 hd46’ Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4 cab/4 hd40’ Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi, Owner’s Version38’ Lagoon 4 cab/2 hd, Meticulous owners38’ Lagoon 4 cab/2 hd, Meticulous owners ’0327’ Heavenly Twins, 2 cab/2 hd $295K ’0158’ ’03 $239K ’01 $399K ’01 $229K $370K ’92 $59K 56’ Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate Condition! ’0142’ Hi-Star Trawler, 2 cab/2 hd $690K 40' EXE Marine Ltd. C-Farer II, 1 cab/1hd36’ Heritage East 36 2 cab/2 hd, 2 avail from35’ Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/1 head27’ Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab ’01 $187K '82 $55K ’01 ’88 $129K $199K ’06 $99K ’77 $ 85K ’79 $165K ’05 $249K ’98 $205K ’84 $99K [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 U.S.V.I. St. Thomas, www.stthomasyachts.com Well Maintained Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent Reduced – Motivated Motivated Sellers [email protected] SAIL Luxurious & Spacious’86 Performance racer/cruiser P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Frydenhoj, 6300 Est. Point Marina, Compass TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across TradeWinds six destinations in the Caribbean. company, are the fastest growing charter We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating $135,000 email: [email protected] CREW V website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 Tel. +784 457 3407 St Vincent Tel. Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 email: [email protected] ST. THOMAS YACHT THOMAS ST. SALES CSY 44CC, Cutter 2 cab/2 hd, CSY Walkover CC, 2 cab/2 hd, Great Condition Dufour, Sloop, 3cab/1hd Island Packet, Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd, 44’ 1984 Tempest Sport Express 44’ 1984 Tempest Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website 33’ 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint,33’ 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise,40’ 1984 Endeavour sloop, Bluewater cruiser, Excellent cond.49’ 1979 Transpacific Ketch, charter business, CG cert for 1855’ 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent $199,000 $250,000 $ 95,000 trailer27’ 1991 Monza, twin Mercs, $ 33,500 250HP Yamahas, cuddy cabin30’ 1997 Salt Shaker SF, new aluminum fishing cat,w/Tuna Tower36’ 2002 Custom Catamaran, engs. Low hrs, new electronics50’ 1996 Carver CMY, Cat $125,000 $ 79,000 $249,000 $ 30,000 We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. are looking for crew, We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. We and teamwork The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding charters will be. between Captain and Chef the more successful your Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. is a plus. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef onsite in the Caribbean. full training offer We are willing to work hard and This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you job. have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. send your CV to us, please If you would like more information about this job or use this email address: 53’ German Frers, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd51’ Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3 hd50’ Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/1 crew/5 hd50’ Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/4 hd46’Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd46’ Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail.from45’Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/3 hd ’02 ’8045’ Hunter Marine Passage CC, 2 cab/2 hd $329K $199K 44’ Beneteau 44CC, 2 cab/2 hd, In Great Shape ’0144’ $275K ’94 ’79 $189K $119K ’98 ’00 ’97 $149K $125K $219K ’99 $134K 64’ Haj Kutter Schooner, Square Rig, 3 cab/1 hd ’3060’ Palomba Pilothouse CC, Ketch, 5 cab/2 hd $425K 58’ Boothbay Challenger CC, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd ’7054’ Gulfstar 54, 3 cab/2 hd, ’73 $109K $239K 44’ 43’ Young Sun 43 Pilothouse, 2 cab/1 hd43’ Jeanneau Sun Od. 3-4 cab/2 hd, 2 avail. from’0142’ Dufour Gibsea, 3 cab/2 hd, Well Maintained $165K 42’ Hunter Deck Salon, 2 cab/2 hd, New Listing ’0142’ Tayana V42 CC, 2 cab/2 hd, Loaded ’03 $125K $199K 41' Cheoy Lee Offshore 41, 2 cab/1 hd ’8441’ Morgan 416, Ketch, CC, 2 cab/2 hd $99K 41’ Beneteau Moorings 411, 3 cab/2 hd40’ '77 $99K ’85 $130K 40’ 40’ Beneteau M405, 3 cab/2 hd, Loaded ’83 ’0140' Beneteau 405, 3 cab/2 hd $78K $114K 40’ Beneteau M405, 3 cab/2 hd, Loaded40’ Bayfield, 2 cab/1 hd, Ketch, 40’ Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, Great Condition ’95 '96 $78K $119K ’96 ’95 $78K $109K NEW 63’ SAIL CAT SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERS NEW Book Review Book CATAMARANS • Available as single or double deck 49 passengers, Base price $199,000

All new Offshore 53’ catamaran Twin diesel, AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price $299,000 • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test For sheer fun, I enjoyed “Uncle Percy” the best. It is the true story of an old white story of an old It is the true the best. “Uncle Percy” fun, I enjoyed For sheer and I will miss as he held me. “I liked him was a good man,” he said “Your husband are gone, but in these stories: they be said of the old days recounted The same can Call Ron Cooper (727) 367- 5004 • www.coopermarine.com oil-rig driller in Trinidad, who worked and played hard until his death at 93, and his death at hard until and played who worked in Trinidad, oil-rig driller woman Indian a much younger life, lived with years of his the last 26 who, for Franco, Jennifer union. The author, harmonious unlikely but Coontie in an named her childhood of a man as “Uncle” from related, but knew this giant was not blood she spent many Percy’s close friend, and Her father had been as a sign of respect. cottage belong- children at a small beach with her husband and years vacationing her husband’s and her husband. After survived both her father ing to Percy. Percy arms. for the first time in Percy’s allowed herself to cry funeral, the author about it.” one blasted thing we can do gone now and there is not him. But he is be remembered fondly. they can still —Continued 43 from page NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 [email protected] Tel (340)626-2186E-mail Caribbean cruise.US$50,000 Croix. Justcompleted4year Cruise ready,locatedinSt. outboard andmuchmore. maker, SSB,inverter,dinghy, solar, windgenerator,water- Yanmar, self-steering,autopilot, Ted Brewerdesign,3cyl 1984 33' STEELCUTTER,MURRAY (868) 624-3492 Yanmar 2003,US$35,000Tel Hog 1)Goodcondition.New PEARSON 36,1973 [email protected] reduced toUS$165,000E-mail: ready forafastsale.Just 1998 CATAMARAN ATHENA38, [email protected] Tel: (784)458-8829E-mail: www.artandsea.com. Island, SVG.Infoon ready tosail,locatedPalm tion, plentyofnewupgrades, 1986 Beneteau51 (340) 277-8884 St. John,USVIUS$10,000Tel excellent liveaboard.Located ered by4stroke6hpOB,fast, cushion covers,auxillarypow- Attractive woodinterior,new built inEngland1974. 30' ACHILLESSLOOP [email protected] 650-1914 E-mail 52' IRWINKETCH Tel (473)435-4174 Club. ContactSelwyn Berthed atGrenadaYacht lass, manyextrasforcruising. 2GM20, Zetusmanualwind- in Durban,S.A.Yanmar Beckmeyer, builtbyZ-Craft Africa designbyOswald sloop.PopularSo. 31' (9.35M)MURIA1992 DETSRLCTO PG LOCATION ADVERTISER uaa aieCrço27 51 Curaçao 22 USA 47 St.Maarten 53 15 32 Curaçao Marine Mustique 19 Corea's FoodStoreMustique Martinique PuertoRico 49 Cooper Marine Martinique 46 Club NauticodeSanJuan 25 Trinidad 51 Guadeloupe CIRExpress Caribbean PropellersLtd. Grenada Martinique 2 42 Carene Shop Tortola Carenantilles SintMaarten 47 UnionIsand Caraibe Yachts 50 54 Caraibe Greement Canvas Shop Mustique Martinique BVI YachtSales Carriacou 46 Budget Marine 18 Bougainvilla 43 33 Bogles RoundHouse Grenada 23 19 Bichik Services PetiteMartinique St.Vincent Venezuela Basil’s Bar Antigua 18 Barefoot YachtCharters Trinidad Bahia RedondaMarina 50 B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Martinique Anjo Insurance UK Aikane Trinidad Admiral YachtInsurance A&C YachtBrokers , verygoodcondition BOATS FORSALE Nice condi- Tel (868) fiberglass, (S/V Fun US$400,000 Tel(868)312-2993 able dinghyw/10hpMercury. els, 16Trojanbatteries,newinflat- w/full cover,9x170wsolarpan- electronics, 12'x21'upperdeck excellent condition,loaded 2001 LAGOON43POWERCAT viewing Tel(784)528-7100 EC$125,000, formoreinfoand additional equipment, lighting, canvascoverother trailer, newlydoneinteriorand engines, justrebuilt,comeswith 454's V8sinboardgasoline power boat.2xMercruisers 32' VELOCITYTHOROUGHBRED [email protected] Margarita US$20,000E-mail fortable, goodcondition,lying England 1993,strongandcom- SUPER ATLANTAVIKING27' E-mail [email protected] Good conditionUS$30,000 CD, wheelsteering,lotsmore. 2 jibs,mains,spinnaker,TV, Yanmar 2GM20,newAwlgrip, PEARSON 30'BUILT1973 Tel (784)458-8888 more infocallOlliverorDalli ably pricedatUS$60K/neg.For good conditionandreason- Marine. 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MarcEspagnon 12m x6.6m6000kg,227cv CANOUAN STAR 100K, PowerCat72’P.O.A., 36’ 45K,CustomKetch40’ Vanderstat 40’139K,Pearson US$285K, SanJuan34’50K, 44’ 135Euro,GrandSoleil52’ Hallberg 45’P.O.A,Bavarian Hallberg Rassy15’US$350K, CMS YACHTBROKER # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER Catamaran oar nepie aiba 48/49 35 4 Caribbean 12 34 Martinique 45 13 21 Bequia Iolaire Enterprises Tortola Bequia Grenada Horizon YachtManagement Grenada Bequia GRPro-Clean 22 48 Grenadines Sails 20 Grenadine IsalndVilla Grenada Marine Grenada Trinidad Frangipani Grenada 21 Food Fair 40 Flying FishVentures 14 Flamboyant OwlBar 22 Bequia G Flamboyant BeachsideTerrace Jamaica 16 5 First Mate Antigua Caribbean Fernando's Hideaway 1 39 Falmouth HarbourMarina Errol FlynnMarina Tortola Trinidad 48 Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Barbados Grenada Doyle's Guides 11 34 Doyle OffshoreSails Carriacou 22 Doyle OffshoreSails 31 Down IslandRealEstate Dominica St.Lucia St.Maarten Dopco Travel Martinique Dominica MarineCenter Dockwise YachtTransport Discovery Marigot Diesel Outfitters , new Built [email protected] 404-4305/443-6434 E-mail details &picturesTel(473) lying Carriacou,US$30,000for seriously forsaleasis,where Now needingrestorationsheis with space,grace&pace. by Garciain1984.Familyboat STEELEYE 43'STEELKETCH Trinidad, Tel(868)739-6449 Simpson Cat40’175K, Craddock 40’110K,Roger Roger Simpson42’86K, personal laundryservice. propane tankfill-up, sale. Taxiserviceavailable, Eggs, bread,cheese,iceon NIMROD’S RUMSHOP,GRENADA E-mail [email protected] Cris Robinson(58)416-3824187 lems andyachtdeliveries.Tel ANCE SURVEYS, PUERTO LACRUZ,VENZ.INSUR- E-mail [email protected] (784) 4564963after6pm. ers only.Salebyowner.Call House andLand.Seriousbuy- Point, LowerBay,Bequia. PROPERTY FORSALE www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay views overlookingSouthern and multiacretracts.Great CARRIACOU, ONEACRELOTS [email protected] rental available.E-mail fruit trees.US$320,000,Term land, fencedwithmature road -nostairs!12,558sqftof full kitchen,laundry,levelwith bedrooms, 1guestbedroom, yards frombeach.2master Lovely 1250sqft.cottage,100 FRIENDSHIP BAY,BEQUIA Tel (868)650-1914 36HP YANMAROUTBOARDDIESEL MASTS -TURBULENCEGRENADA E-mail [email protected] Tel (473)439-4495/415-8271 hulls. 16-17&22meters. 3 mastssuitableformono/multi- PROPERTY FORSALE MISC. 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# CASIMIR HOFFMANN CASIMIR NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling Salary by negotiation. Le Marin Centre de Carenage 97290 Le Marin Centre de Carenage 97290 ANTIGUA YACHT CLUB Falmouth Harbour, Antigua Part-Time, including some weekend hours. Initial applications by e mail please. [email protected] Further aspects of the position are: • Management of existing staff • Supervise the maintenance of the property • Management of the berthing dock. • Assisting visiting yachtsmen with local advice • Occasional manning and responsibility for the members’ bar and yachts and have the ability to organise sailing and social events. Manager or Manageress required The candidate needs to have knowledge of sailing and racing in dinghies Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 [email protected] Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 It is essential that the Manager/ess as a representative of AYC has a pleasant outgoing personality with a willingness to work very flexible hours and have a sound knowledge of Antigua marine affairs. . It’s been fun to cri- —Continued on next page has been both hilarious and illuminating. Caribbean Compass is also a favorite haunt. do not settle the issue either. Authors never state by Buddy Stockwell akin to the following (exaggeration added by me, of course): akin to the following (exaggeration added by me, of course): Caribbean Compass WHAT’S ON MY MIND ON WHAT’S Who Are You Who Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass

Caribbean Compass

When someone uses the term “Cruiser” what is it exactly that pops into your what is it exactly that uses the term “Cruiser” When someone is it that real Cruisers are made of these days? So here’s the challenge: What if Cruisers, or must you be on a budget? What For example, are multi-millionaires A “cruise” is defined: “to sail about on a pleasure trip.” At dictionary.com the word by reading I came to this realization partly Strong opinion goes hand-in-hand with Cruising. Bona fide experts are every- Strong opinion goes hand-in-hand with Cruising. Bona But despite endless tides of expert opinion, defining “Cruiser” is elusive. To my But despite endless tides of expert opinion, defining Articles in I’m sure you’ve read the plethora of “they are not real Cruisers” remarks bantered I’m sure you’ve read the plethora of “they are not real doused that big beautiful Instead of landing at the fuel dock under sail only, they got chopped up by They avoided a beautiful anchorage merely because somebody bacteria-seething They didn’t savor the flavor of the ultra-cheap fly-encrusted What noise-polluting para- They ran a generator and air conditioning last night. True-grit Cruisers would They talk about Mexican Train Dominoes on the VHF. They have not sailed 30,000 miles and/or crossed an ocean, much less circum- They were worried about crime reports down-island. True Cruisers never worry They don’t bathe naked on deck. The poor things have “issues” about their bodies They don’t pee over the rail at anchor while waving to neighboring boats for And so it goes. Reading On a sad note, I quickly learned that I can never be a real Cruiser in all circles. All kidding aside, I have been asking myself broader questions. For example, what Calling a ‘Cruiser?’ a Calling mind? I always thought the word was easy to define, but now I’m not so sure. mind? I always thought the What if you live aboard a stationary wreck? you only gunkhole the Chesapeake? How about the magazine-inspired zero-experi- What about bareboat chartering? I’ve despite having no clue about clews? As of late, enced, can they be real Cruisers the more evasive the answers. been asking. The deeper I dig, that. Sounds dead-dog simple, right? WRONG! Some “Cruiser” simply does precisely meet tougher standards. people demand that real Cruisers spectacular when “firing squads” of experts emerge with guns blazing, “executing” spectacular when “firing squads” of experts emerge with the prior month’s opinionated authors. them at Customs, the chan- where, ready to pounce and opine ad nauseam. You find “holding court” at the bar. It dlery, eavesdropping on every VHF transmission, and is no surprise knowledge, no Guru has coined a general definition. Such efforts might be fruitless- knowledge, no Guru has coined a general definition. Such define “Cruiser” by hold- ly narrow anyway. Gurus worth their own salt would surely ing up their own picture, and that would be too narrow. about in obviously do not have the spinnaker and motored up to the dock instead. They incredible sail-handling skills real Cruisers do! What pitiful little small-mind- an attacker’s machete during a botched dinghy theft. ed stay-away non-Cruiser paranoids! stuck to reading magazines! street vendor food. They should have stayed home and (both historical and bacter- They don’t have the guts (literally) to appreciate culture ial in nature). jerks! I’ll tell you what: it was dise-destroying comfort-before-courage spoiled-rotten as real Cruisers. damn hot on our boat too, but we quietly suffered through immature, impractical, non- never so much as peripherally participate in such oceanic endeavors! navigated non-stop single-handed with no GPS and no autopilot while standing on one foot. They are stumbling toddlers, not real Cruisers! and never lock anything. The world loves real Cruisers. Crime is reserved for inept Cruiser-wannabe-fools and for “locals” with “axes to grind” among themselves. Crime never touches real Cruisers with good Karma! and don’t appreciate natural God-given freedoms real Cruisers enjoy such as getting naked on the transom steps and rubbing “soapy privates” while people on other boats watch through binoculars and gasp: “Good God! Honey! Take a peek at THIS! Hurry up! And please, PLEASE tell me I don’t look like that yet!” applause and scoring regarding impressive trajectories. They must have been potty- trained at gunpoint, poor things. They are clearly not real Cruisers or else they would heartily embrace the liberating joys of “fun with bodily functions and an audience.” tique controversial articles and peruse travel logs. Further, the Readers’ Forum is and peruse travel logs. Further, the Readers’ Forum tique controversial articles what a Cruiser is not by what a Cruiser is. Instead, efforts focus on articulating that some people are not fit. delineating alleged deficient behavior(s) and implying When this realization struck, I cried myself to sleep every night for about a week. But, I am happily over it now. Besides, as the old Groucho Marx quote goes: “I do not care to belong to a club that accepts people like me as members.” is wrong with the simple dictionary.com “sailing around on a pleasure trip” defini- tion? What is the big deal? What motivates some Cruisers to “slice the baloney thin” and concoct definitions that exclude others? I can offer theories based on actual experiences with various personality types I’ve encountered. NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 TBA 31 31 31 29 26 -1Jan 26 26 25 24 -1Jan 24 23 -24 21 -23 21 19 16 -24 16 -18 15 15 9 5 -12 5 -10 5 3 -7 1 -2 DECEMBER TBA TBA 30 25 24 24 23 -25 22 19 17 -18 17 16 14 -17 12 -16 12 11 11 10 -12 9 -11 8 -16 6 5 -11 4 4 3 -4 3 2 -4 1 1 1 NOVEMBER If youwouldlikea nauticalortourismeventlistedFREE inourcalendar, at thetimethisissueof and thename contactinformationoftheorganizing bodyto so pleasecontacteventorganizers directly forconfirmation. [email protected], www.stluciayachtclub.com St. LuciaYachtClub(SLYC),tel(758)452-8350, Sir JohnComptonRace,St.LuciatoMartinique andback. St. BartsNewYear’sEveRegatta www.antiguayachtclub.com tel/fax (268)460-1799,[email protected], Nelson’s PursuitRace,Antigua.AntiguaYachtClub(AYC), Festival Day.PublicholidayinMontserrat Merry ChristmasRace,Havana,Cuba.CNIH Triumph oftheRevolutionNauticalFestival,Havana,Cuba.CNIH Boxing Day.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Christmas Day.Publicholidayinmanyplaces FULL MOON Coral BayThanksgivingRegatta,St.John,USVI.www.skinnylegs.com Carriacou [email protected] Winter Solstice Separation Day.PublicholidayinAnguilla Nine MorningsCelebrations,St.Vincent.www.svgtourism.com St. JohnChristmasMusicFestival,USVI Commodore’s CupRace,BVI.RBVIYC Kingdom Day.PublicholidayinSt.Maarten National HeroesDay.PublicholidayinAntigua Chanukah 46th AntiguaCharterYachtMeeting.www.antiguayachtshow.com Saba Day.Publicholidayin MYBA St.MaartenCharterShow.www.mybacaribbeanshow.com [email protected], www.weyc.net (WEYC), Tortola,tel(284)4951002,fax495-4184, 17th WilmerdingMemorialChallengeRegatta,BVI.WestEndYachtClub [email protected] Hemingway (CNIH),tel(537)204-1689,fax204-6653, 9th AnnualWahooTournament,Havana,Cuba.ClubNáuticoIntl. [email protected] One Man,Woman,BoatRace,Martinique. Independence Day.PublicholidayinBarbados www.worldcruising.com ARC 2007setssailfromLasPalmasdeGranCanariatoSt.Lucia. Round TortolaRace.RBVIYC FULL MOON www.coursedelalliance.com Course deL’AllianceRegatta,St.Maarten/St.Barths/Anguilla. US ThanksgivingDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI Discovery Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRico Nanny CayNationsCup,Tortola.www.racinginparadise.com BVI SchoolsRegatta,RBVIYC Statia Day.Publicholidayin www.ttsailing.org tel (868)634-4210/4519,fax634-4376,[email protected], Carriacou SailingSeries.Trinidad&TobagoAssn.(TTSA), Golden RockRegatta,St.Maarten/Statia.www.goldenrockregatta.com Veterans’ Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI St. MaartenDay.Publicholidayin Armistice Day.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndiesandBVI (RBVIYC), tel(284)494-3286,fax494-6117,www.rbviyc.net North SoundandBackRace,BVI.RoyalBritishVirginIslandsYachtClub [email protected], www.styc.net USVI. St.ThomasYachtClub(STYC),tel(340)775-6320, St. ThomasRadiologyWomen’sRegatta&TennisTournament,Thomas, Heineken ArubaCatamaranRegatta.www.arubaregatta.com Constitution Day.PublicholidayinDominicanRepublic www.triangle-emeraude.com Triangle EmeraudeRally,Guadeloupe/Dominica. www.carib1500.com 18th WestMarineCaribbean1500setssailfromHampton,VAtoTortola. Community ServiceDay.PublicholidayinDominica [email protected] St. MaartenYachtClub/LagoonSailboatRentals,(599)-543-6469, Women’s CaribbeanOne-DesignKeelboatChampionship,St.Maarten. Independence Day.PublicholidayinDominica 7th TriskellCup,Guadeloupe.www.triskellcup.com D HamiltonJacksonDay.PublicholidayinUSVI Independence Day.PublicholidayinAntigua&Barbuda All Saints’Day.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies All informationwascorrecttothebest ofourknowledge please sendthename anddate(s)oftheevent St. CroixUSVIFestival St. KittsCarnival •[email protected] CALENDAR Compass went topress—butplanschange, guaranteed datewithdestinyatthehandsofnextmonth’s“firing-squad!” risked sharingyourstrongly-wordedopinionswithallofusovertheyears,despite a or learnmoreaboutmeandmyadventures,seewebsitewww.indigomoon.us. ioned byCruisersforCruisers.Ifyouwouldliketosubmita“RealCruiser”definition, here andtheyaresurelyrealCruiserstoo. same seaswithlesserskills.Greenastheymaybe,hadthegutstocome out achievement, howevergreat,entitlesanyonetobelittleothersoutherefacing the superior tomine,andrightlyso.WhatIamsaying,however,isthatnolevel of or unappreciated.Igreatlyrespectandcongratulatethosewithseamanshipskills far Cruiser isornot. wonderful accomplishments,buttheyshouldnotbeusedtodefinewhata real accomplished greatfeatsofsailhandlingduringoceanicpassages.Thosethings are résumés. Forexample,maybeyouhavemasteredcelestialnavigation,or would stopusingtheterm“realCruiser”asvagueshorthandforextensivepersonal Go aheadandlaugh,Icantakeit. different answers.Onecrotchetyoldsaltdidn’tmissabeat,sayingsimply:“Notyou.” undertake theadventurewithnoturningback. “cruise” asfollows:tosailaboutonapleasuretrip…havingresolvedattheoutset that Iwasengaginginanadventurethemeaningofwhichthoroughlyunderstood.” My stepwaslightondeckinthecrispair.Ifelttherecouldbenoturningback,and April 24,1895wasfair,atnoonIweighedanchor….Athrillingpulsebeathighinme. as well: at theveryinceptionofhisadventuresamagicaltransformationoccurredwithinhim before youjudgeharshly,holdonasecond.Imightjustbeingoodcompany. and voyagingexpertsarescoffingrightnowinutterdisgustatmysyrupynotions.But of boatsandthesea,thenyouaresurelyaCruiserforwhomdestinysimplywaits. with allotherpeopleafflictedaninsaneandtragicyetwonderfulmagiclove an indelible,irrepressibledreamofsailingaway,andyousenseagenuinekinship Customs officials. after tofacebigwaves,reefsailsinmidnightsqualls,andsufferoccasionallynasty and departthecomfortzoneofawell-establishedshoresidelifethanittookthere- is themomentthatyoucrosslineandbecomearealCruiser. tainty restsuponthehorizonaheadofyou.Nonetheless,youstaycourse.That back andseeyourhomeportdisappearoverthehorizonbehindyou.Sheeruncer- life (alreadyliquidatedwithnoeasywayback).Atsomecertainmomentyoulook untying thelinesinearnestonDayOne.Yousaygood-byetoapreviousshoreside shooting mymouthoff,itwouldbeludicrousformenottoofferthoughts. come oftheirlateststunt. define exclusivelyare“reallucky”anddumb”depending,ofcourse,ontheout- thrill ofrisk-taking.Sure,theyarerealCruiserstoo.But,theonlyexpressions by travelingbeyondtheouterlimitsofcautionandcommonsense.Theylove marking thezenithoftheirallegedcruisingsuperiority. ly tiltingtheirnosesupatjusttherightangle,likeolfactorysextantscontinually of Cruiser.Moreimportant,youhavenotbeenvotedonbythem. your spreaders,orelseyou’rejustadummyonboat.Youhavenotearnedthetitle their eyes,youmusthavealltherightcertificatesandburgeesflyingfrom represent theentireuniverseoflegitimateCruisers. nies aday.Theirsheertenacitycommandsrespect.Nonetheless,theyalonedonot folks asrealCruiserstoo.Iadmirethosewhodaretocruiseinsmallboatsonpen- and jealousymakeapotentmixthateclipsestheirabilitytoacceptmorefortunate People withtwoflashlightsarenotrealCruisers.” we haveonboardisabucketandflashlight;realCruisersonlyneedoneflashlight. or better,theyautomaticallydeclarethatthosespoiledjerksaren’trealCruisers:“All manent stowaway. Mad World(thatweallsupposedlyleftbehind)snuckontotheirboatandisaper- off a“ratrace”mentality?Didtheyfailtoearnrespectinpriorcareers?It’sasifthe things, acompetition.Whytheedge?Aretheyconstitutionallyincapableofturning selves (andclones).Theydon’tcomplimentanyoneelseandneverpraiseotherboats. friends; theywantaudiences.Theyclearlyreservethelabel“realCruiser”forthem- they aresuperiorexpertCruiserssailingthebestcruisingboat.Theydon’twant by cruising.Theyareingeniousatturningconversationssoastoinformyouthat frompreviouspage —Continued Buddy StockwellandhiswifeMelissaarecruisingtheCaribbeanaboard By theway,couldsomebodypleaseloanmeacigaretteandblindfold? Finally, manythankstoallofyouwhohaveappearedin All thesame,Iamstillsearchingforperfectgeneraldefinitionof“Cruiser”fash- Make nomistake;Iamnotadvocatingthatamazingskillsshouldgounrecognized After ruminatingaboutallofthisfurther,itseemstomewouldhelpifpeople So far,I’veasked50peopleinthefleettodefine“realCruiser”andIhaveheard Hey, that’snottoobad.ButwhatdoIknow?I’mnoexpert. Captain Slocum’sremarksmayhelpaugmentthemoderndictionarydefinitionof “I hadresolvedonavoyagearoundtheworld,andaswindmorningof Joshua Slocum’saccountofsettingsailaboard My layman’sopinionsareromantic,Iknow.True-gritcircumnavigators,know-it-alls, Being predisposedtowardcamaraderie,I’llgofurther.Isaythatifyouarebesetwith It tookalotmoregutstosellmyhome,liquidatesuccessfulcareermid-stream, It ismysteadfastopinionthatthereasolitaryhurdletobecomingrealCruiser: Shifting gearsnow,let’sgetbacktotheissue:generallydefining“Cruiser”.After Last butnotleast,thereisafourthgroup:“adrenalinejunkies”whogettheirkicks When Ifirststartedcruising,wasstunnedtofindafewpeopleoutherecareful- A thirdvoicecomesfromtheranksof“credentialed”Cruisers.Tobelegitimatein Of course,notallminimalistCruisersfeelthatway.Forafew,though,hardship Another voiceemanatesfrom“sourgrapes”types.Ifanybodyhasanythingbigger Personally, Ican’timaginehowanyonecouldperceivethatcruisingis,ofall First, therearethe“competitors”.Theyunmistakablyouttoprovesomething Spray in 1895demonstratesthat Caribbean Compass S/V IndigoMoon. and NOVEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 19-10-2007 15:39:50 is an art Yacht transport Yacht www.sevenstar.nl YACHT TRANSPORT OVER SEVEN SEAS headoffice tel; +31 20 4488590 • uk representative tel; +44 23 80223671 tel; +31 20 4488590 • uk representative headoffice tel; May 10-20 2008 > Southampton Tortola > Palma & La Spezia Tortola IJMUIDEN • SOUTHAMPTON • GIBRALTAR • MALLORCA • FORT LAUDERDALE • CARIBBEAN LAUDERDALE • FORT • MALLORCA • GIBRALTAR SOUTHAMPTON • IJMUIDEN 071015-01B Sevenstar ad CC.indd 1