Miao woman's apron Black cotton embroidered in red, blue, and white County, Province, Mid-20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn and Alice L. Crowley Bequest, 1987,1987.45.1

The apron was worn on festive occasions, over a pleated skirt with an indigo-dyed jacket, whose sleeves were decorated with several broad bands of embroidery. The embroidered panel on the apron could be removed and attached to a new apron when needed.

Miao women's caps Greenish-gold smoked silk with silk embroidery Huangping County(?), Guizhou Province, China Second half of the 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1987,1987.100.lc and 1987.100.2d

Early accounts of the Miao describe elaborate headdresses involving hairpieces, multiple head- cloths with ornament, and even wooden frames to: large, draped effects. Caps like these, made in the style of Huangping County, were seen at market in neighboring Kaili County, worn by Miao woman who were otherwise dressed in ordinary, non-Miao clothing. The caps might also have accompanied the two Miao costumes listed above. 60

*1*7 IM> zd /1?7. 4fj SczeSiM783Z(* 3ee 7& & /9r7/oo./c Miao woman's ensemble Huaxi, near , capital of Guizhou Province, China Late 19th to mid-20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1987,1987.43a-i

Jacket of indigo, blue, and white cotton with silk embroidery Sleeves of black cotton with silk embroidery Headband of white cotton with silk embroidery Back halter of three indigo and black cotton layers, each embroidered in silk; straps covered with commercially woven silk ribbon Skirt of indigo cotton Apron of blue and white cotton with silk embroi­ dery Pair of leg wrappings of indigo cotton with attached edging band of black cotton embroidered in white

Miao woman's jacket and skirt Dark red cotton with silk embroidery, fold-and-tuck applique, and woven designs Kaili County, Guizhou Province, China Mid-20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn and Alice L. Crowley Bequest, 1987,1987.45.2ab

Miao girl's jacket and skirt Indigo cotton with woven and embroidered silk decoration Kaili County, Guizhou Province, China Second half of the 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1987 1987.100.lab

Miao woman's jacket, skirt, and baby carrier Indigo, black, and greenish-gold cotton with \\ /en and embroidered silk decoration Kaili County, Guizhou Province, China Second half of the 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1987, 1987.100.2abc ^

see MM S9Z7.43ct~Z See /1Z7A3*^ /9n4£±a6 t9f7.i*4 4+*i 7r2£-7- MM 7$3gS t9c?7. A+*ZabC Man's or woman's sash (kera) Indigo wool twill with woven stripes and plangi (tie-dyed) circles and fringe Central Nepal 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1986,1986.182.3

Shawl (charkhab) Wool twill with multicolored weft bands and stripes and supplementary weft designs Bhutan Mid-20th century(?) Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1986,1986.234

Shawl Red wool twill with plangi (tie-dyed) circles, grey and white cotton weft bands, applique, embroidery, shells, and coins Spiti region, northwest India 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest,-1986,1986.182.4

Woman's dress (kira) Wool twill with woven stripes and plangi (tie-dyed) crosses Bhutan 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1986,1986.182.2

Woman's apron Wool twill with multicolored weft stripes Tibet 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1986,1986.182.1 V* -• • * • • • •*•••.•* * \ (7* * • » • : .*.%•»• * * * * % # •

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IfgL J'X2.3 /1?6.234 /Itdf. /?2.4 /9/rG. /?z. I See MM A9£G./e2.4 7? 3 8* Shoulder or head cloth (slendang) Red silk with multicolored plangi (tie-dyed) and tritik (stitch-dyed) design and metallic fringe Palembang region, southeastern Sumatra, Indonesia Early 20th century Isabel Shults Fund, 1986,1986.172.2

Toraja girl's jacket and skirt Blue cotton decorated with appliques, embroidery and sequins; bark cloth Celebes, Indonesia Early 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1985,1985.187ab jj^

Set MM 7?£&7 net. 172.2 /f^6" /&7«&> Woman's festive sarong (tapis) Cotton , black-and-brown weft ikat, alternating with woven stripes and silk embroidery Lampung region, southern Sumatra, Indonesia Early 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust, 1986,1986.74.1

Kauer woman's jacket Tan and blue cotton with red applique, embroidery, and mica and shell ornaments Lampung region, southwestern Sumatra, Indonesia Early 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn and Alice L. Crowley Bequest, 1983,1983.59

Skirt cloth (kain lepas) Dark red silk with weft ikat, stripes, and supple­ mentary metallic weft Malay Peninsula, Federation of Malaysia 19th century Katherine Breyer Van Bomel Fund, 1987,1987.38 Maloh Dayak woman's vest (sape buri) Skirt cloth Black cotton twill decorated with nassa shells, glass Red silk with warp stripes and warp ikat stripes in beads, shell buttons, and Indonesian coins dated black and beige 1921 and 1922 Atjeh, northwestern Sumatra, Indonesia Borneo, Indonesia 20th century 20th century Isabel Shults Fund, 1986,1987.34.2 Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust, 1986,1986.172.3a

Maloh Dayak woman's skirt (kain buri) Maloh Dayak woman's vest (sape manik) Indigo cotton decorated with nassa shells and glass Bark cloth covered with glass beads, trimmed in beads, fringed with brass bells cotton, fringed with brass bells Borneo, Indonesia Borneo, Indonesia 20th century 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust, 1986, 1986.172.3b Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust, 1986, 1986.74.2 Skirt cloth (kain Upas) Red silk with weft ikat and supplementary metallic weft Malay Peninsula, Federation of Malaysia 19th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1986,1986.172.1 T

1

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/9&>. ~. /1^.l7>.3a /9H. I7^3(? T'ai Neua shoulder or head cloth (pair beang) T'ai Neua shoulder or head cloth [pair beang) Red silk with supplementary silk weft designs Red silk and natural-color cotton ground with Northern Laos supplementary silk weft designs and metal orna­ 20th century ments Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1987,1987.25.4 Northern Laos 20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1987,1987.25.3 T'ai Neua skirt (sind) Black cotton with attached band of supplementary T'ai Neua skirt (sind) cotton weft designs Weft-striped cotton alternating with bands of Northern Laos supplementary silk weft patterns, shot with metallic 20th century thread Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1987,1987.25.1 Northern Laos 20th century T'ai Neua skirt (sind) Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1987,1987.25.2 Red silk warp with alternating bands of weft ikat in red silk and indigo cotton weft and supplementary T'ai Neua shoulder or head cloth (pair beang) cotton weft designs Indigo cotton with supplementary cotton weft Northern Laos designs First quarter of the 20th century Northern Laos Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1986,1986.139.2 Mid-20th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1986,1986.139.1 ^BR3__E_?

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