Our Mission The mission of State Parks is iving History Fort to provide for the health, inspiration and L education of the people of California by helping to preserve the state’s extraordinary biological events reenact Humboldt diversity, protecting its most valued natural and cultural resources, and creating opportunities the daily lives State Historic Park for high-quality outdoor recreation. of officers and their families at Fort Humboldt. California State Parks supports equal access. Prior to arrival, visitors with disabilities who need assistance should contact the park at (707) 488-2041. This publication can be made available in alternate formats. Contact [email protected] or call (916) 654-2249. CALIFORNIA STATE PARKS P.O. Box 942896 Sacramento, CA 94296-0001 For information call: (800) 777-0369 (916) 653-6995, outside the U.S. 711, TTY relay service www.parks.ca.gov Discover the many states of California.™

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Fort Humboldt State Historic Park 3431 Fort Avenue Eureka, CA 95503 (707) 488-2041

© 2009 California State Parks (Rev. 2012) F ort Humboldt County. Archaeological the native people. Desperate settlers also State Historic Park and historical appealed for help from the government. is built on the edge evidence points to Fort Humboldt Established of a flourishing In January 1853, Fourth Infantry U.S. Army near Eureka in culture thousands soldiers, led by Brevet Lt. Colonel Robert scenic northwest of years old. C. Buchanan, arrived at Humboldt Bay to California. The Primarily hunters broker peace. Buchanan selected a fort site fort gives visitors a and gatherers, they on a high, barren bluff overlooking the bay glimpse of pioneer- dwelled in an area above Bucksport. By 1857, 14 redwood and era military life in the rich in edible resources. plaster structures had been built in a “U” mid-19th century. Fort Humboldt taken from The village of Tuluwat, shape around a parade ground. Due to its Humboldt Bay, 1860s on nearby Indian Island in NATuRAL HISTORy strategic location high on the bluff, no outer Arcata Bay, was the Wiyot physical walls or palisades were built to protect the The bluff where Fort Humboldt sits is and spiritual center. They held annual company of soldiers. composed of alluvial and marine deposits, world-renewal ceremonies at Tuluwat to The Military Dilemma sand, and sedimentary clay. Loamy topsoil bring the world back into balance and heal The military troops found themselves acting covers these layers. its social discord. The deer and bear that once inhabited as mediators between settlers and Indians Worlds in Conflict the redwoods surrounding Fort Humboldt to resolve conflicts and avoid violence. Many After Major Pierson B. Reading discovered are now gone—along with the redwoods. newcomers wanted the indigenous people gold at the Trinity River in May 1849, the Spruce and alder trees grow on the west moved to reservations out of the area. ensuing gold fever brought the traditional shoulder of the bluff; willows and berries In an effort to bring about a sustainable Wiyot way of life to an end. Fortune-seekers have filled in the freshwater pond south of peace, seven agreements were signed with were lured to the state. Uniontown (later the bluff. California Indians living between Clear Lake renamed Arcata, its original native name), Typical of coastal redwood regions, and the Klamath River. These treaties were Bucksport and Eureka sprang up around Eureka is foggy year-round, with average Humboldt Bay, and newcomers sought temperatures in the 50s and 60s. the native peoples’ territory. Rather than PARK HISTORy clearing the redwoods from Native People unoccupied land, settlers California Indians have lived in the took over Indian villages northwestern area for several thousand and traditional hunting years. About 14 tribes lived in the and fishing sites; many redwood forest region later served by Fort Wiyot died defending Humboldt, including the Wiyot, , themselves and their Whilkut, Nongatl, , Sinkyone, homes. Violence , and Yurok people. The Wiyot escalated; bloody battles occupied the area now known as Humboldt ensued as vigilantes attacked Surgeon’s quarters never ratified by the government, and the later rejoined the Army Fort Humboldt Today tribes never received the land that they had during the Civil War, The fort was abandoned as a military post been promised. soon promoted to in 1870. The W. S. Cooper family bought When most federal troops departed for the colonel and rose to the land with its remaining hospital in Civil War, prominent local citizens formed lead the Union troops 1893. In the early 1920s, Mrs. Laura Cooper a self-proclaimed militia. On February 26, as general. In 1869, donated the property to the City of Eureka 1860, the militia attacked five separate Wiyot Grant became the 18th to commemorate U. S. Grant’s service as the villages over a 30-hour period, massacring president of the United fort’s Quartermaster. The City tranferred title several hundred unarmed Indians. Ulysses S. Grant States, serving to the State; Fort Humboldt became a state The village of Kutuswalik, within sight of two terms. historic park in 1963. Fort Humboldt, was burned completely. The Seth Kinman was a hunter The period house museum in the Army built an 80-foot open corral near the who supplied elk meat to reconstructed surgeon’s quarters is open fort to hold both captive Indian prisoners troops at Fort Humboldt for viewing. The herb and flower garden is and those who sought refuge at the fort from and entertained the filled with authentic period plantings. Along vigilantes. Fed an unfamiliar diet of hardtack soldiers with tales of the parade grounds, a gravel path connects and beans, some native Californians died of his exploits with grizzly Native American exhibits with three- dysentery; others were killed in continuing bears. Kinman played dimensional fort-era exhibits and an open- violent outbursts. More than 200 Wiyot music for the soldiers air logging display. people died before the remainder could be on his fiddle, made from ACCESSIBLE FEATuRES forcibly resettled on reservations. the skull of his favorite Seth Kinman Parking, restrooms, trails and exhibits Today, the surviving descendants of the mule, “Dave.” are generally accessible. The museum is Wiyot have established federal recognition. Harriet St. John Simpson, her husband accessible from mostly level paths. They have regained portions of Indian Island Assistant Surgeon Josiah Simpson, and and are restoring its plundered sacred sites. their children enjoyed their post in the PLEASE REMEMBER Life at the Fort surgeon’s quarters from 1854 • The park is open for day use only. A bugle call or drum beat regulated the to 1857. Mrs. Simpson • Except for leashed service animals, pets routine of fort life. Fort Humboldt’s supplies, chronicled life at the are not allowed in park buildings. mail, and even soldiers’ pay were often fort in lively letters delayed for months. Away from family and to her family back NEARBy STATE PARKS OFF HWy. 101 friends, isolated and lonely, soldiers found East. Her letters and • Azalea State Natural Reserve, Hwy. 200, that time passed slowly; many deserted. sketches provide a McKinleyville 95519 (707) 488-2041 One unhappy young captain, Ulysses S. clear historical record • Little River State Beach, Crannell Rd. Grant, was stationed at Fort Humboldt in of daily fort life. She Trinidad 95570 (707) 488-2041 1854. He was a loner, preferring to spend his often threw parties Harriet Simpson for the fort’s officers This park receives support in part from leisure time at a nearby tavern or riding in a nonprofit organization. the countryside near the fort. and their families, Redwood Parks Association After five months, Captain Grant resigned detailing both her menus and her servants’ 1111 Second St., Crescent City, CA 95531 his commission and went home to farm. He cooking methods. (707) 464-9150 www.redwoodparksassociation.org