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Farringdon r C r ckfriars Fa S S #æ #Ü USA USA $13.99 UK £7.99 Local Life Discover how to unlock the city with guides to areas that love. locals really the 4TH EDITION 4TH Published Mar 2014 First Published May 2007 Get straight to the heart of the city the heart of the to straight Get Top Sights The city’s must-see expert plus sights advice to make your better. even trip lonelyplanet.com PLUS • Maps for every neighbourhood • Walking tours and day planners • Packed with expert travel tips • 100% independent advice pocket-london-4-cover.indd 1 LONDON TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Emilie Filou

0-prelims-pk-lon4.indd 1 14/11/2013 8:48:49 AM In This Book

16 Need to Know 17 18 London Neighbourhoods 19

Before You Go Arriving in London Getting Around Need to Your Daily Budget Most visitors arrive at , 15 Managed by (www.tfl. London British Museum & National Gallery & miles west of central London, or Gatwick gov.uk), public is excel- Bloomsbury Covent Garden Know Budget less than £80 Airport, 30 miles south of central London. lent, if pricey. The Underground is the most Neighbourhoods (p62) (p42) convenient form of transport; the cheapest London’s most famous Bright lights, big city: X Dorm bed £10-30 QuickStart A From Heathrow Airport way to travel is with an . museum, elegant West End theatres, big For more information, X Market-stall lunch £5, supermarket Regent’s Park & Destination Best Transport squares, eclectic dining ticket museums, see Survival Guide (p 205 ) sandwich £3-4 t Tube, Overground & DLR Camden (p150) and literary pubs. fantastic restaurants, Covent GardenUnderground or North London has a X Many museums free The (‘the tube’), Over- 1Top Sights shopping galore and Currency ground and DLR are, overall, the quickest strong accent on boho nightlife. Pound sterling (£). 100 pence = £1 X Standby theatre tickets £5-15 then Underground nightlife, parkland and British Museum and easiest ways to get about the city, if not 1Top Sights X Barclays bike daily charge £2 Kensington Underground or the cheapest. The cheapest way to travel on heaths, canal-side National Gallery Language Heathrow Express the Underground is with an Oyster Card. charms, markets and English (and over 300 others) Midrange £80-180 then Underground international menus. X Double room £100-150 Bus Bloomsbury Underground or J Visas X Two-course dinner with glass of wine £30 The bus network is extensive but slow-going 111 Heathrow Express St Paul’s & the City Not required for US, Canadian, Australian, then Underground except for short hops; fares are good value 1111 X Theatre ticket £10-50 111 British New Zealand or South African visitors for if used with an Oyster card and there are (p82) The City Underground or Museum London’s iconic church stays up to six months. European Union Top End over £180 plentiful night buses and 24-hour routes. E# Guide nationals can stay indeÀ nitely. Heathrow Express Kensington and tower are here, X Four-star/boutique hotel room £200 then Underground Taxi E# St Paul's alongside ancient K Museums (p126) Cathedral Money X Three-course dinner in top restaurant with One of London’s remains, historic South BankUnderground or Black cab drivers always know where they # Tower of classiest neighbour- E# National E# Tate E churches, architectural ATMs widespread. Major credit cards wine £60-90 Heathrow Express are going, but fares are steep unless you’re Gallery London hoods with fine Modern gems and hearty pubs. accepted everywhere. X Black cab trip £30 then Underground in a group. Minicabs are cheaper but must Buckingham museums, hectares of Palace Regent’s Park & Underground or be booked in advance rather than flagged Natural History Houses of 1Top Sights X Top theatre ticket £65 parkland, and top-grade E# E# Mobile Phones Camden Heathrow Express in the street. Fares are given at the time of Museum E# Parliament Tower of London Buy local SIM cards for European and booking. shopping and dining. E# then Underground E# Westminster StTower Paul’s of LondonCathedral Australian phones, or a pay-as-you-go 1Top Sights Abbey Useful Websites Bicycle Victoria & phone. Set other phones to international H Victoria & Albert Albert Museum roaming. X Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ A From Barclays Bikes are everywhere around cen- london) Destination information, hotel book- Museum Destination Best Transport tral London and great for short hops. Time ings, great for planning. Natural History Museum Your keys to under- Westminster Abbey E# London is on GMT; during British Summer X Time Out (www.timeout.com/london) Covent GardenGatwick Express then K Car & Motorcycle & Westminster The Royal Royal Time (BST; late March to late October), Snappy, au courant London listings. Underground As a visitor, it’s unlikely you’ll need to drive (p22) Tate Modern & Observatory & Observatory London clocks are one hour ahead of GMT. Kensington in London. Disincentives include extortion- The royal and political X Londonist (www.londonist.com) All about 11 South Bank (p104) (p162) ate parking charges, congestion charges, 11 11 heart of London: pomp, London and everything that happens in it. then Underground or Modern art, innovative Fine blend of grandeur Plugs & Adaptors easyBus traffic jams, the high price of petrol, efficient 11 11 pageantry and history in 11 11 theatre, Elizabethan and village charm with Standard voltage is 230/240V AC, 50Hz. traffic wardens and wheel clamps. But if spades. Bloomsbury Gatwick Express then 11 Worth a Trip drama, superb dining, maritime history, a lively Three square pin plugs. Adaptors for that doesn’t put you off, numerous car hire Advance Planning Underground 1Top Sights 1Top Sights modern architecture market, great beer and European, Australasian and US electrical operations can be found across town from X Three months Book performances of Westminster Abbey and traditional pubs. gorgeous11 parkland. items are widely available. The City Gatwick Express then self-service, pay-as-you-drive vehicles to Kew Gardens 11 top shows, a room at a popular hotel. E 11 Underground international firms (such as Avis and Hertz). Buckingham Palace 1Top Sights Top Sights Hampton Court Palace 11 X standing the city – One month Book tickets for fringe 11 Tipping South BankTr ain to London Bridge Houses of Parliament Tate Modern Royal Observatory theatre, live music, festivals. Round up to nearest pound or up to 10% Regent’s Park & Train to King’s Cross for taxi drivers. Tip restaurant waiting staՖ X A few days Check the weather on www. Camden then Underground we help you decide between 10% and 15% if service isn’t included. tfl.gov.uk/weather. what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip

24 Westminster Abbey & Westminster Westminster Abbey 25 148 Worth a Trip A Saturday in Notting Hill 149

Top Tips 1 Treat Yourself to an Ice tickets £8-18; tLadbroke Grove) is the UK’s oldest cinema, updated with luxuri- Don’t Miss f Crowds are almost Cream Top Sights Local Life ous leather armchairs and footstools. as solid as the Abbey’s A stroll in Notting Hill would not be North Transept complete without an ice cream and Check out what’s on the program; Westminster Abbey The north transept is often referred to as States- stonework, so get to the A Saturday in Notting Hill front of the queue À rst what better place to have one than at there’s mainstream, art house, classics men’s Aisle: politicians and eminent public thing in the morning. the lovely Gelato Mio (www.gelatomio. and epic all-nighters. And when the Adorers of medieval, ecclesiastic architecture will 1 Map p 32 , D4 figures are commemorated by staggeringly large co.uk; 37 Pembridge Rd; h10.30am-9pm credits start rolling, head to the excel- be in heaven at this sublime abbey and hallowed marble statues and plaques. The Whig and Tory f Hop on one of the lent Electric Diner (www.electricdiner.com; place of coronation for England’s sovereigns. % 020-7222 5152 Mon-Thu, 10.30am-10pm Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, prime ministers who dominated late Victorian 90-minute tours led by 191 Portobello Rd; mains from £7; h8am- Getting There A Saturday in Notting Hill sees the neighbourhood 10am-9pm Sun; W; tNotting Hill Gate) Almost every nook and cranny tells a story, but www.westminster-abbey.org politics, Gladstone (who is buried here) and vergers (£3) and depart- midnight Mon-Thu, 8am-1am Fri-Sun) next at its busiest and best. Portobello Market is full of ice-cream parlour, on your way to few sights in London are as beautiful, or as well- Disraeli (who is not), have their monuments ing from the north door. door for top-notch hot dogs. Explore 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1 t Notting Hill Gate vibrant colour and the area is stuffed with excel- Portobello Market from Notting Hill preserved, as the Henry VII Lady Chapel. Else- uncomfortably close to one another. station is on the Circle, Gate tube station. where you will find the oldest door in the UK, f Grab an audioguide, lent restaurants, pubs, shops and cinemas, making adult/child £18/8, tours £3 free with your entry tick- District and Central the entire day an event that embraces market 5 Drinks at the Earl of Lonsdale Poets’ Corner, the Coronation Chair, 14th-century Sanctuary ets at the north door. Lines. browsing, the culinary, the grain and grape and, 2 Browse the Market The Earl of Lonsdale (277-281 Porto- cloisters, a 900-year-old garden, royal sarcophagi h9.30am-4.30pm Mon, At the heart of the Abbey is the sanctuary, where last but not least, a chance to catch a film in a Stroll along Portobello Rd until you bello Rd, W11; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, noon- Tue, Thu & Fri, to 7pm t Ladbroke Grove and much more. coronations, royal weddings and funerals take 10.30pm Sun; tNotting Hill Gate, Ladbroke Wed, to 2.30pm Sat station on the Ham- classic picture-house setting. reach the iconic Portobello Market place. George Gilbert Scott designed the ornate 5 Take a Break Grove) is peaceful during the day, with mersmith & City and (www.portobellomarket.org; Portobello Rd, t Westminster high altar in 1897. In front of the altar is a rare a mixture of old biddies and young Get drinks and snacks at Circle Lines is also W10; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Wed, Fr & Sat, marble pavement dating back to 1268. It has hipsters inhabiting its charming useful. 8am-1pm Thu; tNotting Hill Gate, Ladbroke intricate designs of small pieces of marble inlaid the Coffee Club in the WIN INITIATIVE/GETTY IMAGES © snugs. There are Samuel Smith’s ales, Abbey’s Great Cloister; Grove). The market mixes street food into plain marble. and a fantastic backroom with sofas, for a sit-down meal head with fruit and veg, antiques, colourful ¥# e0 500 m banquettes and open fires, as well as a % # 0 0.25 miles fashion and trinkets. Henry VII Lady Chapel to Cellarium ( 020-7222 Ladbroke Ch Grove Ledbu fine beer garden shaded by a towering 0516; www.cellariumcafe. e London This spectacular chapel has a fan-vaulted ceiling, ps tree of whopping girth. com; mains £9.50-14.50; 3 Explore a Museum tow Rd colourful heraldic banners and oak stalls. Behind Col r h Westbourne Park Rd Tce Rdy The unexpected Museum of Brands, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to s Sq vi e the chapel’s altar is the elaborate sarcophagus re lvill C ll o Packaging & Advertising (www.museu- Notting Hill Carnival 4.30pm Sat), part of the eim #ý e C of Henry VII and his queen, Elizabeth of York. nh 4 #æ Ble #3 Rd mofbrands.com; 2 Colville Mews, Lonsdale Rd, original 14th-century sdale If you visit in late August, don’t miss Opposite the entrance to the Lady Chapel is the s Lon ve Benedictine monastery, re ne G W11; adult/child £6.50/2.25; h10am-6pm the carnival. Launched in 1964 by the Coronation Chair, seat of coronation for almost C bour gin D st El enb e Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; tNotting Hill Gate, with stunning views of W s local Afro-Caribbean community keen every monarch since the late 13th century. #þ a 2 l i l Ladbroke Grove, Westbourne Park) is fairly the Abbey’s architec- Ke gh Rd i to celebrate its culture and traditions, ns s V Arundel n h lla low-tech, but eye-catching with its tural details. #û5 i e Notting Hill Carnival (www.thenottinghill Tomb of Mary, Queen of Scots Garde s ig V in enb e ow g sponsored displays at the end of the roke g D t d carnival.com) has become Europe’s larg- Two small chapels on either side of Lady Chapel db Tc ps i Not far from the Abbey, a t r L on he gallery showing the evolution of pack- P C b est street festival (up to one million contain the tombs of famous monarchs: on the Gardens ar the Vincent Rooms m k Por aging of well-known products, such as Rd e people). Musical processions finish left rest Elizabeth I and her half-sister ‘Bloody L tob (p 36 ) is great for P The best things to a Johnson’s Baby Powder and Guinness. ello d around 9pm, although parties in Mary’. On the right lies Mary, Queen of Scots, b top-notch modern L Rd a ro bars, restaurants and seemingly every beheaded on the orders of her cousin Elizabeth in n k European cuisine at s Catch a Film (& a Hot Dog) Cl d e 4 house in the neighbourhood go on late o G cahoots with her son, the future James I. rock-bottom prices. a Ladbroke Square r w v Over 100 years old, the one-of-a-kind endon Rd Gardens into the night. There are dozens of n e #ú1 e Electric Cinema (%020-7908 9696; www. R q Caribbean food stands, and celebrity d ke S e bro dbrokeRd Notting Gat electriccinema.co.uk; 191 Portobello Rd, W11; ad La Hill chefs often make an appearance, too. L Hill Gate ng ¥# tti see and do, The Quire (p27) at Westminster Abbey No neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life neighbourhood Make the most The insider's city of your visit

178 South Bank to the Houses of Parliament 179 180 Best Eating Best Eating 181 Best Walks 1 Southbank first-rate views across sonnet Composed upon the southwestern cor- Centre the Thames to the Westminster Bridge, Sep- ner and Central Tower South Bank to London’s leading Houses of Parliament. tember 3, 1802. Today’s between the two. Best the Houses of cultural landmark and For many years, County bridge features in the Eating the world’s largest Hall was the home of early scenes of horror 6 Jewel Tower Parliament single-run arts centre, local government for film 28 Days Later. With a history of over London; today it houses the Southbank Centre 700 years, the Jewel Once the laughing stock of the cooking world, 2 The Walk (p 120) is anchored by the Sea Life London 5 Houses of Tower stands on the London has got its culinary act together over Aquarium, a film Parliament Packing some supreme views, this easily manage- the 1950s outline of the far side of Abingdon St the past two decades and is now an undisputed

museum and hotels. /GETTYIMAGES © /GETTYIMAGES © able walk along the Thames kicks off at London’s refurbished Royal Fes- At the end of Westmin- from Victoria Tower. dining destination. There are plenty of À ne, signature cultural hub – the Southbank Centre – tival Hall. Bibliophiles ster Bridge rises the The tower was one of Michelin-starred restaurants, but it is the sheer before gravitating towards one of the city’s most may find themselves 4 Westminster elaborate Gothic stone- two buildings (the other variety on oՖ er that is extraordinary: an A–Z of Bridge The Best distinctive architectural gems: the Houses of drawn to the South- work of the Houses was Westminster Hall) world cooking that is a culinary expression of the Parliament. Along the way you will pass the iconic bank Centre Book Completed in 1862, of Parliament (p 30 ), that survived the 1834 city’s cultural diversity. Skylon (p115) Worth a London Eye, elegant Westminster Bridge and some Market (p 121) beneath seven-arched West- also called the Palace of fire that destroyed the of the most superlative vistas the city can muster. minster Bridge is a Westminster. The three Palace of Westminster. Top Tips Trip the arches of Waterloo World Food The fantastic Bridge. later Gothic replace- imposing towers of the One of London’s oldest Market Calming combi- Dishoom Hugely suc- Start Southbank Centre; tWaterloo, Embankment One of the joys of eating out in London is the f Make reserva- Providores & Tapa ment for the 15-arch Houses of Parliament surviving structures, nation of bare brick walls cessful revival of the old profusion of choice. For historical reasons Indian tions at weekends, Room (%020-7935 Finish Jewel Tower; tWestminster London Eye bridge of Portland stone are Elizabeth Tower the tower contains an and a classic, wholesome Bombay cafes. (p52 ) 2 cuisine is widely available (curry has been labelled particularly if you’re 6175; www.thep- upon which William (colloquially called ‘Big exhibition on its history British menu. (p155 ) Length 1.5km; one hour If you want to ride the a national dish), but Asian cuisines in general are in a group of more Baozi Inn Beijing street rovidores.co.uk; 109 Wordsworth penned his Ben’), Victoria Tower at and functions. London Eye (p 113) – very popular: Chinese, Thai, Japanese and Korean than four people. St John The restaurant food in vintage commu- Marylebone High St, the huge Ferris wheel that inspired the revival nist decor. (p55 ) 5 Take a Break Victoria restaurants are all abundant, as well as elaborate f Top-end restau- W1; 2/3/4/5 courses Waterloo 0 400 m of British cuisine. (p 99 ) twirling above the Trafalgar Embankment e# 0 0000.2 miles fusion establishments blending flavours from dif- Abeno Delicious Japa- £33/47/57/63; h9am- Pack a picnic to eat in Jubilee Gardens next to the 0000Square Gardens Bridge 000 rants oՖ er great val- Thames – you may need 0000 000 ferent parts of Asia. nese pancakes within a 10.30pm Mon-Fri, London Eye or feast on the excellent cuisine at styl- 0000 StrandEmbankment 000 ue set lunch menus; of London a fast-track ticket to get 0000 ¥# 000 Food from continental Europe – French, Italian, à la carte prices are Best European hop and skip of the Brit- 10am-10pm Sat & Sun; ish Skylon (p 115 ) at Royal Festival Hall. No 0000 rthum St ish Museum. (p75 ) ahead of the queues. be Hungerford #ý1 .# d Spanish, Greek, Scandinavian – is another favour- sometimes cheaper Bocca di Lupo Sophis- tBaker St) is split rland or Alternatively, relax on Ave Bridge f am ite, with many classy Modern European establish- for lunch too. ticated Italian cuisine in over two levels: ST JAMES'S t St the grass of Jubilee n ments. Restaurants serving other types of cuisines Soho. (p55 ) Best for Views tempting tapas 000000 e f Many West End Gardens if the sun 000000 m tend to congregate where their home community Dabbous Head-spinning Duck & Waffle Round- (£2.50 to £17) on 000000Horse k restaurants oՖ er W 000000 n is shining or take in 000000 Jubilee is based. flavours in industrial chic the-clock British fare with the ground floor hames 000000Guards h d good-value pre- or ba the buzzing street life: St James's 000000 i Gardens R SOUTH 000000Parade t Wat decor. (p75 ) City views. (p96 ) (no bookings); and e m Park er T k 000000 r BANK post-theatre menus. h this is prime territory 000000 E #æ2 Gastropubs outstanding fusion 000000 a e t a Riv Yo ¥# Baltic Flavours from Skylon Stunning Thames l i rl l for street artists, from r £# oo Rd While not so long ago the pub was where you went cuisine in the el- St James's o Eastern Europe on your vistas; fine international human statues to break- The Cu for a drink, with maybe a packet of potato crisps to Park Lake ct Best British egant dining room The city’s i #æ Waterloo plate as well as in your menu. (p178 ) 3 dancing acts. V soak up the alcohol, the birth of the gastropub in Westminster BOROUGH glass. (p115 ) above. There’s a /LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Westminster Launceston Place Fan- Westminster Bridge

M the 1990s means that today just about every pub fantastic brunch eat Georg ¥# Bridge Rd tastic looks, outstanding Gr e S d

t a #æ4 3 County Hall W R offers full meals. The quality varies widely, from Parliament r food. (p143 ) on Saturdays and t g e s Best Asian

e i S Square a s l a t defrosted on the premises to Michelin-star worthy. c Sundays. o y Begun in 1909 but not t m r

a e i Dinner by Heston l n Ba Yauatcha Top-drawer t #æ s completed until 1922, 5 a ter te B S Blumenthal Celebra- P a B dim sum in a stylish, t T County Hall is an im- d r h idg tion of British cuisine #æ Abingdon St t R e R d contemporary dining pressive building faced #6 e b LAMBETH with both traditional and environment. (p53 ) in Portland stone with Victoria St am highlights London Eye (p113) and County Hall L modern accents. (p143 ) in handy lists Best Walks London’s Best… to help you plan See the city on foot The best experiences

210 Survival Guide Getting Around 211 212 Survival Guide Essential Information 213 ¨ For interactive online access period (24 hours/ the nearest free black- to Hampton Court Palace Essential Electricity ATMs bureaux de change Travel Passes & Tickets bus maps, click on www. one week), leaving À ve cab driver; download the and Kew Gardens. ¨ Ubiquitous ATMs across London. Dos and Don’ts Oyster cards are chargeable smart cards valid tÁ .gov.uk. minutes between each free app from its website. generally accept Visa, trip. You pay only the metered Information Credit & Debit Cards Do across the entire London public transport ¨ More than 50 night bus Car & Motorcycle MasterCard, Cirrus or fare. ¨ Credit and debit cards network. Fares for Oyster-card users are lower routes (preÀ xed with the ¨ If the docking station is Best for…getting out Maestro cards and more ¨ Stand on the right on escalators and walk on Business Hours are accepted almost than standard tickets. If you are making many letter ‘N’) run from 11pm full, consult the terminal ¨ Minicabs cannot be of London. obscure ones. the left. Top Tip London is universally in London, journeys during the day, you never pay more to 5am. to À nd available docking Á agged but must be hired ¨ ¨ Expensive parking open for business every There is usually a trans- from restaurants and ¨ Let others oՖ the tube before you get on. than the appropriate fare (peak or points nearby. by phone or directly from action surcharge for cash ¨ Another 60 bus charges, tra՗ c jams, high day of the year, except bars to shops and even ¨ off peak) once the daily ‘price cap’ is reached. one of the minicab o՗ ces Expect tra՗ c to stop at zebra crossings. routes run 24-hours; the ¨ You must be 18 to buy petrol prices, e՗ cient Christmas Day (25 De- withdrawals with foreign some taxis. Paper single and return tickets still exist but are (every high street has ¨ Look right À rst when crossing the road. frequency decreases access and at least 14 to tra՗ c wardens and wheel cember) when absolutely cards. substantially more expensive than using Oyster. one and most hotels and everything shuts down, ¨ American Express and between 11pm and 5am. ride a bike. clampers make car hire ¨ Nonbank-run ATMs that Don’t Oyster cards for visitors are pre-loaded with clubs work with a minicab including the transport Diner’s Club are less Survival credit and ready to use. unattractive for most charge £1.50 to £2 per À rm). network. widely used than Visa and ¨ Forget your umbrella. visitors. transaction are usually ¨ Touch your card on a reader upon entry and Bicycle Taxi MasterCard. ¨ Minicabs are usually Information 9am-5pm ¨ Forget to queue for virtually everything. Best for…short Best for…late nights ¨ London was the world’s found inside shops (and then touch again on your way out. Credit is de- cheaper than black cabs Mon-Fri ¨ If your card is equipped distances, although tra՗ c and groups to share the À rst major city to intro- are particularly expensive ¨ Forget to open doors for others. ducted accordingly. For bus journeys, just touch and don’t have meters; Sights 10am-6pm with a chip, make sure can be intimidating. cost. duce a congestion charge for foreign bank card once upon boarding. the fare is set by the you learn the pin or you to reduce the Á ow of Banks 9am-5pm 230V/50Hz holders); look for ‘Free ¨ Oyster cards are purchasable (£5 refundable ¨ Barclays Cycle Hire ¨ Fully licensed London dispatcher. Mon-Fri may not be permitted to May Day Holiday First tra՗ c into its centre. For cash withdrawals’ signs Telephone (%0845 026 3630; www.tÁ . Black Cabs (www. pay by card. deposit) and topped up at any Underground Shops 9am-7pm Mon- to avoid these. Monday in May full details look at www. ¨ Some public phones station, travel info centre or shop displaying the gov.uk.) is straightforward londonblackcabs.co.uk) are Sat, 11am-5pm Boat tÁ .gov.uk/roadusers/con- Tipping Spring Bank Holiday Oyster logo. and particularly useful for available for hire when Sun Changing Money still accept coins, but Best for…views. gestioncharging. Emergency Last Monday in May visitors. the yellow sign above ¨ ¨ Many restaurants add most take phonecards ¨ Simply return your Oyster card at a ticket Restaurants noon-2.30pm & The best place to the windscreen is lit; just ¨ (www. ¨ The following car-rental ¨ Dial %999 to call the a ‘discretionary’ service (available from retailers, booth to get your deposit back, as well as any ¨ Pick up a bike from 6-11pm change money is in any Summer Bank Holiday stick your arm out to charge to your bill; it’s including most post one of the 570 docking thamesclippers.com) boats agencies have several police, À re brigade or am- local post o՗ ce branch, Last Monday in August Guide remaining credit. Pubs & bars11am-11pm o՗ ces and some newsa- signal one. are fast and you’re always branches across the capi- bulance in an emergency. where no commission is legal but should be stations dotted around Christmas Day ¨ Day are no cheaper than Oyster guaranteed a seat and tal: easyCar (www.easycar. charged. clearly advertised. In gents) or credit cards. the capital. Drop it oՖ at ¨ Fares are metered, with 25 December cards on the Underground, DLR, Overground and a view. com), Avis (www.avis.com), places that don’t, you are another docking station. a Á ag-fall charge of £2.40, Money ¨ You can also change ¨ Phone codes worth buses. Hertz (www.hertz.com). Discount Cards expected to leave a 10% Boxing Day 26 December rising by increments of ¨ Top Tip Some large knowing: ¨ The access fee is £2/10 Boats run from 6am to money in most high- to 15% tip (unless service 20p for each subsequent ¨ Cars drive on the left in stores also take euros. for 24 hours/a week. just after 10pm, every 20 ¨ London Pass (www. street banks and some was unsatisfactory). International dialling 168m. to 30 minutes, from Lon- the UK. londonpass.com; per 1/2/3/6 travel-agent chains, as Safe Travel are cheaper than cash the bus at the stop’s Insert your debit or credit ¨ The unit of currency code (%00) don Eye Millennium Pier ¨ No need to tip to have Top Tip Pickpocketing fares. If you only travel ticket machine (you will card in the docking sta- ¨ Fares are more expen- ¨ All drivers and passen- days £47/64/77/102) oՖ ers of the UK is the pound well as at the numerous to Arsenal Pier your pint pulled or wine does happen, particularly Local call rate applies by bus, the daily cap is need the exact amount tion to pay your access sive in the evenings and gers must wear seatbelts free entry and queue- sterling (£). Tips and tricks poured in a pub. in crowded areas such as (%08457) £4.40. Bus journeys cost in coins). fee. overnight. and points in between. and motorcyclists must jumping to major attrac- ¨ One pound sterling the Underground, so be a Á at fare (non-Oyster/ Fares cost £6.50/3.25 for wear a helmet. tions; check the website National call rate ¨ Children under 11 travel ¨ The À rst 30 minutes is ¨ You can tip taxi driv- consists of 100 pence Money- discreet with your smart- Oyster £2.40/1.40) adults/children; there are for details. Public Holidays applies (%0870/0871) free. free, then it’s £1 for the ers up to 10% but few (called ‘p’ colloquially). Saving Tips phone/tablet. regardless of how far discounts for Oyster card À rst hour, £4 up to two Londoners do, simply ¨ Passes can be tailored New Year’s Day 1 January Premium rate applies you go. ¨ Excellent ‘bus spider holders and travel card ¨ Notes come in denomi- ¨ Visit free muse- ¨ hours etc (the pricing rounding up to the near- to include use of the London’s a fairly safe (%09) From 60p per maps’ at every stop detail holders. nations of £5, £10, £20 ums and sights. Good Friday Late March/ city considering its size, so ¨ At bus stops with a structure encourages est pound instead. Underground and buses. minute. all routes and destina- and £50; coins are 1p, April yellow background, if short journeys). ¨ There are sightsee- ¨ Buy an Oyster exercising common sense tions available from that ¨ Hailo (hailocab.com) uses 2p, 5p, 10p, 20p, 50p, £1 Toll-free (%0800) you don’t have an Oyster ing boat tours on the Card. Easter Monday Late should keep you safe. particular area. ¨ Take as many bikes GPS to connect your Thames, including boats and £2. for a seamless, card, you must buy your as you like during your mobile phone to that of ¨ Take the bus. March/April ticket before boarding hassle-free city Getting Around Essential Information experience Travel like a local Including where to stay

0-prelims-pk-lon4.indd 2 14/11/2013 8:48:56 AM Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s eat, drink and experience: London 1 Sights Lonely Planet Pocket Guides are designed to get you 5 Eating straight to the heart of the city. Inside you’ll find all the 6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to make your visit to each one 3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split the city into easy-to-navigate 7 Shopping s and provided clear maps so you’ll find your way around with ease. Our expert authors These symbols give you the vital have searched out the best of information for each listing: the city: walks, food, nightlife and shopping, to name a few. % Telephone Numbers c Family-Friendly Because you want to explore, h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly our ‘Local Life’ pages will p Parking g Bus take you to some of the most n Nonsmoking f Ferry i Internet Access t London Tube exciting areas to experience W Wi-Fi Access j Tram the real . v Vegetarian Selection d Train/Overground And of course you’ll find all E English-Language the practical tips you need for Menu a smooth trip: itineraries for short visits, how to get around, and how much to tip the guy who serves you a drink at the Find each listing quickly on maps end of a long day’s exploration. for each neighbourhood : It’s your guarantee of a

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0-prelims-pk-lon4.indd 3 14/11/2013 8:49:02 AM QuickStart Explore Guide 7 London 21 London Top Sights ...... 8 22 Westminster Abbey London Local Life ...... 12 & Westminster London Day Planner ...... 14 42 National Gallery & Covent Garden Need to Know ...... 16 London Neighbourhoods ... 18 62 British Museum & Bloomsbury

82 St Paul’s & the City

104 Tate Modern & South Bank

126 Kensington Museums

150 Regent’s Park & Camden

162 The Royal Observatory & Greenwich

Worth a Trip: Kew Gardens ...... 40 A Night out in Shoreditch ...... 102 Hampton Court Palace ...... 122 A Saturday in Notting Hill ...... 148 Walking on Hampstead Heath ...... 160

0-prelims-pk-lon4.indd 4 14/11/2013 8:49:28 AM The Best of Survival London 173 Guide 205 London’s Best Walks Before You Go ...... 206 Tower of London to the Arriving in London ...... 208 Tate Modern ...... 174 Getting Around ...... 209 Royal London ...... 176 Essential Information ...... 212 South Bank to the Houses of Parliament ...... 178

London’s Best… Eating ...... 180 Drinking & Nightlife...... 182 Entertainment ...... 184 Gay & Lesbian ...... 186 Markets ...... 187 Shops ...... 188 Museums & Galleries ...... 190 Parks & Gardens ...... 192 Architecture ...... 194 For Kids ...... 196 Views ...... 198 Tours ...... 199 Hidden Sights ...... 200 Churches ...... 202 Festivals & Events ...... 204

0-prelims-pk-lon4.indd 5 14/11/2013 8:49:31 AM -quick-start-pk-lon4.indd 6 12/11/2013 10:54:36 AM 7 QuickStart Guide London Top Sights ...... 8 London Local Life ...... 12 London Day Planner ...... 14 Need to Know ...... 16 London Neighbourhoods ...... 18

Welcome to London

London has something for everyone, from art to grand museums, dazzling architecture, royalty, diversity, glorious parks and irrepressible pizazz. It’s immersed in history, but London is also a tireless innovator of culture and creative talent, while a cosmopolitan dynamism makes it quite possibly the world’s most international city, yet one that remains somehow intrinsically British.

St Paul’s Cathedral (p88) and Millennium Bridge (p112) KIMBERLEY COOLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

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