The Project Gutenberg EBook of Brittany & Its Byways by Fanny Bury Palliser This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at http://www.guten- berg.org/license Title: Brittany & Its Byways Author: Fanny Bury Palliser Release Date: November 9, 2007 [Ebook 22700] Language: English ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS*** Brittany & Its Byways by Fanny Bury Palliser Edition 02 , (November 9, 2007) [I] BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS SOME ACCOUNT OF ITS INHABITANTS AND ITS ANTIQUITIES; DURING A RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY. BY MRS. BURY PALLISER WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS London 1869 Contents Contents. 1 List of Illustrations. 7 Britanny and Its Byways. 11 Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany. 239 Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany. 241 Index. 243 Transcribers' Notes . 255 [III] Contents. CHERBOURG—Mont du Roule—Visit of Queen Victoria—Har- bour, 1—Breakwater—Dock-Yard, 2—Chantereyne—Hôpi- tal de la Marine, 3—Castle—Statue of Napoleon I.—Li- brary—Church of La Trinité, 4—Environs—Octeville, 5—Lace- school of the Sœurs de la Providence, 11. QUERQUEVILLE—Church of St. Germain, 5—Château of the Comte de Tocqueville, 6. TOURLAVILLE—Château, 7—Crêpes, 11. MARTINVAST—Château, 12. BRICQUEBEC—Castle—History, 12—Valognes, 14. ST.SAUVEUR-le-Vicomte—Demesne—History, 15—Cas- tle—Convent—Abbey, 16. PÉRI- ERS, 17—La Haye-du-Puits, 17—Abbey of Lessay—Mode of Washing—Inn-signs, 18—Church, 19. COUTANCES—Cathedral—Churches, 19—Fête of St. Fiacre, 20. GRANVILLE—Situation—History—Church, 21—View from the "Roc"—Bathing-machines—Defeat of the Vendean army—Death of La Rochejacquelin, 22—Costume of the Wom- en—Environs—St. Pair, 23. AVRANCHES—Extensive View—Scene of Absolution of Henry II.—Cemetery, 24. PONTORSON—Story of the Lady Typhaine, 24—Govern- ment by Du Guesclin—Mont St. Michel, 25—Chapel of 2 Brittany & Its Byways St. Aubert—Visits of English kings—Pilgrimages of Kings of France, 26—Convent of "La Merveille," 27—Isle of La Tombeleine—Prison, 28—The Iron Cage, 29. DOL-DE-BRETAGNE—Street Architecture, 30—Cathedral, 31—Tomb of Bishop James—Chapel of St. Samson, 32—Monks, 33—Dyke, 34—Menhir, 35—Château of Com- [IV] bourg, 36—Chateaubriand, 37. CANCALE—Oysters, 37—Wretched public vehicles, 38—Bay, 39. ST.MALO—Situation, 39—Sea-wall, 40—Tomb of Chateaubriand—Memorials of him, 41—Watch-dogs, 42—Cas- tle—History, 43—DINARD, 44. DINAN—Ascent of the Rance—Statue of Du Guesclin, 44—Siege of 1359—Duel of Du Guesclin and Thomas of Cantorbéry, 45—Castle of Montfilant—Story of Gilles de Bre- tagne, 46—Lunatic Asylum—Castle of Dinan, 50—Church of St. Sauveur, 51—Museum, 52—Environs—Château of La Bellière, 54—Château of La Garaye—Count Claude de la Garaye and his Wife, 57—Jugon, 61—Castle of La Hunaudaye, 62—Legend of La Hunaudaye, 63—Forest of La Hunaudaye—The Chouan War, 66. LAMBALLE—Jeanne la Boiteuse—War of Succession, 67—Temple of Lanleff, 68—Tradition of the blood-spots, 70. ST.BRIEUC—Palais de Justice—Tour de Cesson, 71—Church of Notre Dame—Review of his army by James II. of England, 72. GUINGAMP—Situation—Fishing in the Trieux—Sanctuary of Notre Dame du Bon Secours—"Frérie blanche," 72—Foun- tain of Duke Peter—Women of Guingamp—Knitting and spin- ning—Ransom for Du Guesclin, 74—Chapel of St. Leonard patron saint of prisoners—Curious charms against fever, 75. PAIMPOL—Château de Boisgelin, 75—Abbey of Beauport, 76—Situation of Paimpol—Suspension-bridge of Lézardrieux, 80—Château of La Roche Jagu, 81. Contents. 3 PONTRIEUX—Castle of La Roche Derrien, 82—"War of the two Jeannes"—Church of Langoat—Monument of Ste. Pompée, 83—Burial customs—Excellence of roads in Brittany, 84. KERMARTIN—St. Ives, 84—Inscription at his birthplace—Inte- rior of a Breton dwelling, 86—Church of Minihy-Tréguier—Will of St. Ives, 87. TRÉGUIER—Cathedral—Burial-place of St. Ives, 88—Consta- ble Clisson, 89—Cemetery, 90—Skull-boxes, 91. LANNION—Difficulty of the road, 91—Perros Guirec—Ploumanach—Roche Pendue, 92—Situa- tion of Lannion—Fishery—Sea-weed gathering, 94—Castle of Touquédec, 95—Château of Kergrist, 96. [V] MORLAIX—Situation—Timbered houses, 97—History, 98—Breton characteristics, 99—Protestant Mis- sions, 100—"Fontaine des Anglais," 102—River Scenery, 103. ST.POL DE LÉON, 103—Religious Monuments—Character of the Léonnais, 104—Church of Notre Dame de Creizker—Legend of St. Génévroc, 105—Cathedral, 106—St. Pol and the Dragon, 109—Ursuline Convent—"Droit de Motte," 110. ROSCOFF—Contraband trade with England—Vegetable pro- duce, 111—Historic importance, 112—Church—Island of Batz—Enormous old fig-tree, 113. ST.THÉGONNEC STATION—Cabaret—Church, 114—Guim- iliau Church—Sculptures, 115—Calvary, 116—Buckwheat, 117—Castle and Church of La Roche Maurice, 118. BREST—Situation, 118—Harbour, 119—Church of the Fol- goët—Legend, 120—Kersanton stone, 122—Sculptures in Ker- santon stone, 123—The Fool's Well, 124—Exterior of Church, 125—Churchyard, 127—Monthly Fair of Brest—Peasants' Cos- tumes, 133. FINISTÈRE—Abbey of St. Mathieu, 129—Sea-fights, 130—Pont Launay and Châteaulin, 134. QUIMPER, 135—Legend of St. Corentin, 137—Cathedral, 139—National costume, 140. 4 Brittany & Its Byways CONCARNEAU, 142—Sardine Fishery, 143—Aquarium, 147—Dolmen and Rocking-stone of Trégunc—Château of Rustéphan, 149—Valley of Pontaven, 150. QUIMPERLÉ—Fishing, 151—Buildings—Tomb of St. Gur- loës, 152—Tomb of John de Montfort—Ruins of St. Colum- ban, 153—Dirtiness of the Bretons—Animals and Farm pro- duce—Butter Indulgence, 154. LORIENT—Bisson and the Pirates, 155. HENNEBONT—Heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, 156—Church of Notre Dame-de-Paradis, 157. STE.ANNE D'AURAY, 158—Scala Sancta—Fête, 159—Chartreuse, 160—Battle, 161—Deaf and Dumb School, 164—Massacre of Quiberon, 165—Champ des Martyrs, 168—Celtic Remains, 169. LOCMARIAKER—Tumulus—Celtic and other Remains, 170—Tumulus of Gavr' Inis, 175. CARNAC—Celtic Remains—Menhirs of Kermario, 177—Leg- end of St. Cornély, 178—Jade Celts, &c., at Plouharnel, [VI] 180—Dolmen of Concorro, 181. VANNES—History—Prome- nade, 183—Cathedral, 184—Château Gaillau—Tour du Con- nétable, 185—Model Village of Korner-hoët, 187—Peninsula of Rhuys, 188—Fortress of Sucinio, 189—Abbey of St. Gildas, 192—Abelard and the Breton Monks, 193—The Breton "Blue Beard," 194—Butte d'Arzon—Castle of Elven, 199—Growth of Chestnuts, 203. PLOËRMEL, 203—Church, 204—Tombs, 205—Column of the Thirty, 206—Battle of the Thirty, 207—Château of Josselin, 209—Church of Josselin, 213. MONTFORT-SUR-MER—Forest of Paimpont—Fairy tales, 215. RENNES, ancient capital of Brittany—Entry of Henry IV.—Scenery of the Loire, 216—Castle of Champtoceaux, 218. NANTES—Cathedral, 221—Tombs, 222—Castle—Anne of Brittany, 223—Promenades and Boulevards—Museum, Contents. 5 227—Jardin des Plantes—Descent of the Loire—The Noyades, 228. ST.NAZAIRE—Historical asso- ciations, 230—Le Croisic, 232—Salt-pans, 233—Costume of the Paludiers, 234—Saulniers—Chouan: origin of the name and of the War, 241—Church of Batz, 243—Situation of Le Croisic, 244—Chapel of St. Goustan, 245. GUÉRANDE—Church of St Aubin—Chapel of Notre Dame Blanche, 246—La Roche Bernard, 247—Wedding Festivities, 248—National Music—Female Costume—Fête de la Vierge and of the Emperor, 249—Scenery of the River Loch, 250. BELLE ISLE—Le Palais—M. Trochu's Model Farm, 251—Bre- ton fatalism, 252—Grotte du Port Coton, 255—Historical asso- ciations of Belle Isle, 256—Fishery, 257. PONT L'ABBÉ, 257—Costumes, 258—Church, 259. LOCTUDY—Romanesque Church, 261. TORCHE DE PENMARCH, 262—Church of St. Guenolé, 263—"Le filet saint"—Ruins of the old Town, 264—Fontenelle the Lea- guer, 267—Church of St. Nonna, 268—Menhirs at Kerscaven, 269. AUDIERNE—Lighthouse—Bathing-machines, 269—Town, 270. POINTE DU RAZ—Popular superstitions—Church of St. Col- lédoc, 271—"Enfer de Plogoff"—Island of Sein—Druidess- es, 272—Dangerous passage, 273—Baie des Trépassés—Sub- merged city of Is, 274—Legend of King Gradlon and his daughter Dahut, 275. [VII] DOUARNENEZ—Romanesque Church of Pointcroix, 276—Chapel of Notre Dame de Comfort—Wheel of Sacring-Bells—Town of Douarnenez, 279—Pardon of Ste. Anne-de-la-Palue, 280—Cos- tume, 281—Church of Ste. Anne—Procession, 282—Holy Well of Ste. Anne, 285. 6 Brittany & Its Byways SCAËR—Old Cus- toms and Superstitions, 285—Wrestling—"Pierres de Croix," 286. LE FAOUÉT—Chapel of St. Barbe, 287—Wedding cere- monies and amusements, 288—Fishing, 289—Old Breton su- perstitious still prevalent—Lavandières de la Nuit, 290—Church of St. Fiacre—Elaborately carved Rood-screen, 293—Paint- ed glass—Ruined Castle of Poncallec—Plot of Cellamare, 294—Montagnes Noires, 296. CARHAIX—Situation, 297—Statue of La Tour d'Auvergne, 298—Fair and Market—Church of St. Tremeur—Skull-boxes, 299. HUELGOAT, 300—Lead-mines, 301—Cascade of St. Her- bot—Chapel of St. Herbot, 303—His tomb, 304—Patron of cattle—Offerings of horsehair and cows' tails, 304—Homeward journey, 307. USEFUL DATES in the History of Brittany 309 CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE of the Dukes of Brittany 310 List of Illustrations. VIGNETTE—St. Michael's Mount, Title-page. 1. Querqueville Church, 6 2. Plan of Querqueville Church, 6 3. Château of Tourlaville, 9 4. Castle of Bricquebec, 13 5. Badge of the Sœurs de la Miséricorde, 17 6. Coutances Cathedral, 20 7. Pilaster and Cornice from Tomb of Bp. James in Cathedral of Dol, 31 8.