Volunteering in Georgia a Handbook

Volunteering in Georgia A Handbook

Disclaimer

The use of this handbook in part or whole is permissible providing the integrity of the manual remains intact and an appropriate quotation and referencing system are used.

Printed by The NewsPaper ‘‘Sakartvelos Matsne’’ Ltd. Tbilisi, Georgia.

Cover: Graffiti, Tbilisi.

ISBN 978 9941 0 0725 5 Volunteering in Georgia A Handbook 006 Preface

Dear volunteers going to Georgia,

Your upcoming experience of the European Voluntary Service (EVS) is certainly going to be one of the most adventurous and personality-enriching periods in your life. Not only because you are going to the Southern Caucasus, far away from your home country and culture, but also because you will support the local community where you are going with your work, because you will help other people from your heart!

By being an international volunteer you will definitely learn a lot and experience both the bright and dark sides of the local culture you are moving to. Neverthe- less your work will also be directed towards people there. You will need a lot of responsibility and surely will face great moments of success shared with others. Being a member of the large family of EVS volunteers makes you an actor of positive change in Europe and beyond. Assume this fully and enjoy a mindful of heartfelt emotions!

The Handbook you are just about to read will be very helpful with your preparation for and awareness of many obstacles that you will meet along the way. The Handbook might also help you a lot to identify your own objectives for your upcoming EVS project. Altogether the Handbook can make your life and work in Georgia easier. Enjoy reading it and remember that every EVS experience is unique and personal.

007 SALTO EECA would like to express their deepest gratefulness and esteem to the authors, Tiphaine Coulardeau and Sebastian Schweitzer, who have dedicated a period in their lives to the development of Georgia in general and the European Voluntary Service in particular. Many thanks also to the Academy of Peace and Development in Tbilisi which for many years have supported the development of youth in the Caucasus with great success.

The example of this Handbook clearly shows that the efforts of the Youth in Action Programme to bring the intercultural dimension into youth work within Europe and beyond is not only a priority but also a reality of many EVS projects in the region.

We would like to wish all EVS volunteers who are going to their placements in Georgia to demonstrate all the enthusiasm, energy and open-mindedness required for the new challenges they have chosen to face. Good luck as for your personal furtherance and your welcome contribution to local communities in Georgia.

Tomasz Szopa, Project officer at the SALTO Eastern Europe and Caucasus Resource Centre

Table of Content

013 | BACKGROUND 017 | VOLUNTEERING IN GEORGIA 023 | EUROPEAN VOLUNTARY SERVICE

027 | European Volunteer’s Testimony

I | FACTS AND FIGURES 030 | Land of Medea 033 | Georgia saqarTvelo 037 | Open Questions

045 | European Volunteer’s Testimony

073 | European Volunteer’s Testimony

III | DAY-TO-DAY TOIL 076 | Practical Tips 082 | Leisure and Free Time 085 | Travelling

010 089 | European Volunteer’s Testimony

IV | CULTURAL STRUGGLE 092 | In a Foreign Country 095 | Cultural Particularities 100 | Cultural Guide

105 | European Volunteer’s Testimony

125 | CONCLUDING REMARKS

127 | RESOURCES 128 | Georgia 132 | Intercultural Learning 135 | European Voluntary Service

139 | THE GEORGIAN LANGUAGE 145 | ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 147 | AUTHORS 149 | GEORGIA

011

Background

This handbook is inspired by the wish to motivate young people to come as Euro- pean Volunteers to Georgia to experience what will become a lifelong memory.

The European Voluntary Service (EVS) of the European Union offers from our point of view a unique opportunity to meet those personal and cultural challenges that can be found in foreign countries. The EVS programme provides a safe and supportive structure and the financial help needed by volunteers. With this handbook we want to encourage young people to join the European Community of volunteers in Georgia to experience life and work in a different cultural environment, acquire knowledge, improve their skills, undergo personal changes and simply spend a great time.

Living and working in a foreign country anywhere in the world brings a lot of adventure and challenges, particularly in Georgia where you have to face them every day. Often amazing, sometimes terrific or unforgettable but also frustrating and daunting, these daily surprises have an enormous impact on volunteers during their stay in the foreign country but also on their life afterwards.

It has been often noticed that even after having read a lot about cultures and living styles, you still encounter cultural surprises. At first glance, Georgians seem to belong to European culture as many other societies of Post Soviet Union and indeed there are many similarities to be found. But under this Western appearance, considerable cultural differences exist. Keep in mind that Georgia is not only facing a political and economic transition, but is also confronted to Western influences that deeply question their traditional norms and values, and you will understand that even Georgians find it difficult to choose between tradition and modernity or to adapt to the fast development in their society. Consequently, being a foreigner living and volunteering here creates plenty of confusing situations for which we believe some cultural background information and practical advice would be helpful

View of Tbilisi from Surrounding Hills 013 to avoid problems and difficulties in daily life.

Therefore this handbook has been made for future volunteers or foreigners planning to stay longer than just a holiday in Georgia. It raises up practical, cultural and volunteering issues about living in Georgia, because using public transportation may be insignificant in your own country whereas using public transportation here might be an adventure in itself.

This handbook does not have the pretention to replace the few existing travelling guides for this region of the world. Consequently, it does not contain touristic information as such, it only covers it when it is relevant to integrate Georgian culture.

Instead, this handbook’s topic is volunteering in Georgia and it is structured along this line. It starts with a short chapter about volunteering that outlines the main challenges to volunteers in a foreign country and Georgia, and it gives a brief overview of the EVS programme. The next two chapters are dedicated to Georgia as a country, providing basic facts and highlighting cultural characteristics to give a true image of this destination. The following three chapters together are the core of the book addressing those three basic challenges encountered by any volunteer: daily life, cultural differences and working in a Georgian organisation. At the end further readings and other resources can be found widening information on Georgia, volunteer work and Intercultural Learning.

We hope that book will make you curious about coming here, for a short while or a longer stay, and motivate young people to discover the spirit of Georgia. Enjoy reading this book and come along to live and work here.

As the handbook is dedicated to current or future volunteers it is available as a free down- load on the webpage of the Academy for Peace and Development, Georgia, www.apd.ge, and of SALTO-EECA Resource Centre on www.salto-youth.net/eeca

014 015

Volunteering in Georgia

A volunteer is a person who works for free for the benefit of a given community. Vo- lunteers are acting on their own will - they are not forced to volunteer. They do not receive any financial compensation for their work, except out-of-pocket expenses.

The concern of most young people is to find a job which corresponds to their expectation and to create a family. Consequently every single action is often taken in order to fit it into their Curricula Vitae (CVs) with their career in view. Wester- ners particularly think ahead, plan their life and they have little time left for other concerns, whereas volunteering - if not considered as a CV entry or a logical step for a future job - can be taking some time for these other concerns. It is dedicating time to oneself and to others, to think upon one’s personal aims, one’s own values or even the world as a whole. Volunteers are generally seeking challenges, they spend some of their time to what they believe in and to implement their own ideas in the real world. On the way they receive a lot from the people they work with. This makes volunteering what it is: a process of giving and receiving.

One can volunteer everywhere, at home or in foreign countries. The difference between volunteer activities at home and foreign countries is very small and depends more on the sectors in which the volunteer decides to get involved. But to be a volunteer in a foreign country definitely adds a cultural dimension to the project making intercultural dialogue and learning key elements in it and it enriches the experience. The European Voluntary Service of the European Community offers this combination of voluntary work and intercultural exchange by providing a well- established structure for Europeans to work and live in other countries.

International volunteers usually express several reasons for volunteering, but generally these can be divided in two broad categories: personal and professional motivations.

Gergeti Trinity Church, 2400m of Altitude, near Mount Kazbeg 017 The professional aspect is mainly explained by the motivation to discover another working field, to support on-going projects or to implement activities from scratch, and to enlarge experience and widen knowledge in an already known area. A personal argument focuses more on the following objectives: to discover a new country and culture, to define personal aims and one’s own identity more precisely, to develop social skills, or to help others in general. Commonly each volunteer’s motivation consists in a mix of professional and personal elements, while one aspect rather than the other may be emphasized by each particular volunteer. But in any case volunteers are looking for something new or aiming to discover something new. And a volunteer period is exactly giving that opportunity to them: professional and personal self-development, increased awareness about the environment and themselves, new or strengthened skills and satisfaction.

Any volunteering period in foreign countries with any organisation, the European Voluntary Service among others, creates an impact at three different levels – the local community, the hosting organisation and the volunteer himself or herself.

On the local community the impact has mainly two sides. On one side the activities created or conducted by the volunteer concretely affect the hosting community that benefits from newly set up initiatives that address public issues. On the other side, the volunteer’s living and working creates an intercultural exchange with some informally learned elements for those who interact with the foreign volunteer, which increases cultural awareness.

The hosting organisation too is not only affected by the volunteers’ presence in cultural terms. As a supplementary worker the volunteer contributes his or her new ideas, points of view and initiatives to on-going or newly created projects. Mo- reover, his or her approaches, methods and skills can improve the work of the host organisation when imported and implemented.

Finally for the volunteer going to a foreign country provides him or her with work experience, enhances his or her skills and knowledge, but also raises his or her awareness about his or her own culture and the hosting culture leading to widened intercultural understanding and tolerance. The entire volunteering period has an impact on the volunteer’s self-confidence, because living and working in a foreign country makes the volunteer feel and understand which of his or her own abilities he or she can mobilize.

018 Of course too, unexpected results may come out of a volunteering project. The projects implemented by the volunteer can fail to comply with the community’s needs or simply when not well conducted they may locally give a bad reputation to the hosting organisation. The volunteer can get frustrated because he or she cannot reach his or her personal and professional goals.

These impacts, positive or negative, are not specific to volunteering in Georgia. They occur in most international voluntary projects, but we must emphasize here that these impacts are amplified by the particular challenges a volunteer assigns to himself or herself when going to an emerging country like Georgia. Georgia offers to each volunteer coming here the satisfaction of both their personal and professional goals and above mentioned expectations.

Georgia being a country in transition undergoing a shift from a socialist economy to capitalism, we can find elements from both systems. This and the fact that the country is in a permanent state of development endows daily life with a specific set of adventures and logistic questions that are unknown in Western countries. Public transportation, supply infrastructures or simple shopping require more attention from a foreigner than commonly expected.

As Georgia is located at the meeting point between Asia and Europe the culture features particularities that make volunteering here an intercultural experience, too. A volunteer will be confronted to a society in which traditions still play an important role and in which the concepts of time and interpersonal relations have a different meaning. To discover Georgian culture and to adapt to it when coming from Europe will require much more thinking than requested when staying within Western Europe for an EVS project, but it will on the other hand also enrich the person’s perception of cultural differences and their value.

Due to the Post-Soviet heritage of the country and the chaotic early 1990s Non- Governmental Organisations are still developing and that is why volunteers have the unique opportunity more than in Western Europe to bring considerable contributions to local activities and to the organisations themselves. This is challenging since a lot will depend on the initiatives of the volunteer himself or herself. Howe- ver, original opinions and points of view, different working styles and rhythms, and new ideas for projects are highly welcome here.

019 According to what has just been said, for every volunteering project in a foreign country there exists a challenge containing three sub-challenges which a volunteer will have to face when coming to Georgia. This handbook is dedicated to them in order to help with integration in the country and the hosting organisation and facilitate cultural adaptation.

Therefore, this handbook is organised as follows. After a short overview on the European Voluntary Service of the European Community, the first two chapters give significant background information concerning Georgia, its history, traditions, politics, etc. These two chapters are followed by three more chapters dedicated to the respective challenges listed below that are deeply interconnected.

Day-To-Day Toil describes the obstacles a volunteer has to overcome in arranging his daily life in Georgia. It addresses the smaller or bigger but surely significant differences of how daily-life logistics are organised here.

Cultural Struggle covers the intercultural aspect of volunteering in Georgia and illustrates Georgian cultural particularities volunteers have to deal with when living and working here.

Volunteers’ Gambles deals with the working environment of the volunteer and tackles problems that might occur when volunteering in a Georgian organisation.

Finally this handbook contains real life testimonies and anecdotes from former or current volunteers in Georgia in order to share experiences and to provide an insight into Georgian volunteering reality.

020 021

European Voluntary Service

The European Voluntary Service (EVS) is part of the Youth in Action programme set up by the European Union. It gives the opportunity to young people to experience life in another country for a few months by living and working there. This chapter presents the main lines of the EVS programme.

The European Voluntary Service (EVS) is a programme established to offer a “learning period” to young people, meaning that the volunteer does not need any background education, specific skills or language knowledge to participate. The intention is that every young person aged 18 to 30 - in some specific cases from 16 onwards - can take part in a non-profit activity in order to enhance their personal, professional and also intercultural skills. The main goal of the European Community’s giving this opportunity to young people is to build peace by creating intercultural bridges across Europe and having a direct impact on local communities.

A European Volunteer can take part in the activities of organisations committed to different goals: the environment, social care, education, culture, Human Rights, youth, arts, etc. While spending up to 12 months in the foreign country, the volunteer is supposed to interact with the local community of his hosting country in order to increase tolerance and European awareness. The Youth in Action programme especially focuses on young people with fewer opportunities, hence socially impaired young people from isolated areas, with a disability or any characteristic decreasing their chances to be fully integrated into their local community.

The European Voluntary Service can take place in most of the world’s countries, but

Artificial Lake near Ananuri 023 it mainly targets European Union countries plus Turkey, Lichtenstein, Iceland and Norway (so called Programme Countries) and Neighbouring Countries - Eastern Europe and Caucasus (EECA), the Mediterranean region (EuroMed) and South East Europe (SEE). During this learning period volunteers are supported with different training programmes helping them to face challenges and to multiply the impact and effect of their volunteering period, by sharing experiences and impressions with other volunteers - the different training programmes and supportive measures are detailed in the chapter entitled Framework. The living expenses of the volunteer are fully covered and the EVS budget also takes care of sharing and spreading experiences in Europe by organising, when possible, specific events connected with the volunteering period.

In order to learn more about it, you will find below a short description of the EVS programme. Future volunteers will discover basic elements and, if necessary, the chapter entitled Resources will provide you with further documentation and addresses.

“Youth in Action!” This is the name of the programme dedicated to youth by the European Community for the period 2007-2013. It contains different types of activities all dedicated to informal education and Intercultural Learning. The European Voluntary Service is listed as Action 2 in this programme.

Eastern Europe and Caucasus (EECA). This region which includes seven countries - Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Moldova, Russia and Ukraine - is a partner region for the Youth in Action programme. It is possible to develop Eu- ropean Voluntary Service projects with organisations located in these countries. A Resource Centre dedicated to the cooperation with this region has been set-up by the European Community in order to support activities - contacts are detailed in the chapter Resources.

Sending Organisation. Volunteers are sent by a given organisation from their own country. This organisation helps them to find an EVS placement in the destination country - the sending organisation applies to get the funds for the EVS project in most of the cases of an EVS project taking place in EECA. During the volunteering period, the sending organisation keeps contact with the volunteers and follows the evolution of the project.

024 Hosting Organisation. This is the organisation that hosts the volunteer by providing a work placement and some specific and appointed tasks within or outside its own structure. The hosting organisation is responsible for the arrangements concerning the volunteer’s stay - accommodation, local transportation, food, etc. They also appoint the mentor and the coordinator of the volunteer and prepare them concerning their duties and responsibilities.

Coordinator. This person, working in the hosting organisation, acts in cooperation with the volunteer. The coordinator gives tasks to the volunteer and supports the development of the volunteer’s own project. The coordinator is the main person the volunteer refers to within the working environment.

Mentor. This is the person who helps the volunteer to settle in the new environment, to get to know locals and to support him in case of difficulties. The mentor knows the hosting placement and plays the role of mediator in case of conflict.

Costs. The EVS programme fully covers travel costs from home to the hosting placement, as well as visa and vaccination costs, if needed. All costs need to be listed beforehand in the budget in order to be covered.

Volunteer Allowance. It is the money the volunteer receives as personal pocket money. This amount is €80 per month for Georgia in 2008.

AXA Insurance. A European volunteer has insurance coverage at AXA Insurance Company - every volunteer receives an insurance certificate before leaving. The volunteer needs to inform AXA when going under medical treatment in order to be reimbursed. In case of planned treatment, AXA may provide pre-paid care. The insurance covers diverse fields and the volunteer is advised to read the insurance contact before leaving in order to fully know his coverage.

025

European Volunteer’s Testimony

“I have spent half a year in Georgia and it is hard to say something about it in a few words! But what I can say is that I have never felt in my life so many different emotions: sometimes devastating and sometimes magical like in fairytales. Who knows if it is because of Georgia or EVS?!

Georgia! A country with many faces: marvellous mountains, the Black Sea, marshrutkas, homemade wine, crazily organised traffic, romantic streets and houses in Tbilisi, joyful people and a lot more. If you decide to forget for a while the way you used to live and to move to Georgia, you will experience a lot! You think this disorganised society will eat your last grit and stamina: it might well just be the first impression! Take a deeper look and you may learn the joy of life...

People! Georgians have kind of “easy going”, hard to catch, life approaches that you might have forgotten because of the lack of time in our Western societies…or maybe just because of a different use of time. We have only one life and it is important to enjoy it: you will learn a lot from Georgians!”

View on the Harbour, Batumi 027

Facts and Figures

Facts and Figures offers basic information concerning Georgia, its history, its current situation and its perspectives. It wishes to create motivation and widen knowledge about the country. These basic facts are valuable for a newcomer because they are the groundwork for further understanding, and therefore for better integration in the country and its culture. The Open Questions section closing the chapter, states the challenges Georgia is presently confronted to and which volunteers will be, if not directly involved with, at least facing.

This part, by depicting Georgia’s situation, wishes to give an idea of where volunteers can contribute energy, time and ideas.

Wine Red Clay Amphora, Open Air Museum of Ethnography, Tbilisi 029 Land of Medea

Georgia, often known as the Land of received strong cultural influences from Medea, possesses a long and rich his- their neighbours – Persians, Greeks tory. The earliest proof of settlements and Byzantines. The Georgian Kingdom in Georgia is circa 1.8 million years old. adopted Christianity in 335. Georgian history is characterised by invasions from different neighbours who Medieval Times. The Persians and brought cosmopolitan influences to the the Byzantine Empire struggled about country - nevertheless Georgia kept its the region and control switched back own specificities through the centuries. and forth several times between them. Having a short overview on where the Several fragmented feudal regions were people and the land come from is the the result of this instability and opened keystone for understanding the country the way to invasion by Arabs in the 7th today. The main historical lines are des- century. However, Kartli-Iberia remai- cribed below. ned very independent and Eastern and Western Georgia were united in the Antiquity. There are proofs of a deve- 11th century, which initiated the Geor- loped Georgian civilisation as far back gian Golden Age. The young King from as the 7th century BCE thanks to urban, the Bagrationi Family, David IV (Agh- metallurgic and goldsmith heritages. mashenebeli, also called The Builder, c. However, the actual territory of Geor- 1089 - 1125) drove the Seljuk Turks out gia has been inhabited since the early of the country and expanded the terri- Stone Age. The Ancient Greeks and Ro- tory southwards and eastwards. mans record Georgia to be then divided into two Empires, known as Iberia Thanks to its unity and its prosperous on the East and Colchis on the West. exchanges with the Christian and Isla- Colchis is associated by Greek Mytho- mic Worlds, Georgia advanced in va- logy to the place where Jason and the rious cultural fields such as literature Argonauts sought the Golden Fleece. In and politics. This brought the united this period of history, both territories Georgia into a real Renaissance in

030 . . . Facts and Figures . . . the 12th and 13th centuries, about two ced a revival in the increased awareness hundred years before the similar Re- concerning culture and language. Driven naissance in the Western World. This by the nationalistic elite, mainly brought Golden Age was possible thanks to the up by the writer-journalist Ilia Chavcha- political consolidation of the State in vadze and the poet Akaki Tsereteli, this the 11th century. Then, under the reign movement led to the independence of of Queen Tamar (r. 1184 - 1213), the the Democratic Republic of Georgia in epic poem of Rustaveli The Knight in the 1918. Panther’s Skin was written as an ode to humanist values. The Renaissance brou- Soviet Union. The independent state ght significant improvements in state lasted three years from 1918 to 1921 organisation, secular politics, culture, when Georgia was invaded by the Red philosophy and literature, as well as re- Army and integrated into the Soviet ligious and ethnic tolerance. The effects Union. of the Golden Age are still visible in the cathedrals, fortresses and the romantic In 1922, Stalin, a son of the country, literature. became General Secretary of the Com- munist Party of the Soviet Union. He The Golden Age was brought to an end stayed in power until his death in 1953. by the Mongol Invasion in the 13th cen- During these decades Georgians, like tury which marked the beginning of a everyone in the Soviet Union, suffered period of Persian and Turkish invasions from political repression and persecu- which will last six centuries. During that tion - the Great Purges of 1937-1938, period, the present Georgian territory directed by Stalin, deeply affected the was entirely fragmented. country. During WW2, Georgians fought on the side of the Red Army. Russian Empire. In 1783 Georgian representatives signed the Treaty of During the Soviet era, Georgia develo- Georgievsk with the Russian Empire ped significantly, especially in the fields that established a protectorate. This of education, industry and urbanisation. agreement was broken a few years later However, from the 60’s onward, nationa- and Georgia was annexed by the Rus- list movements claiming independence sian Empire in 1801. This date marks the for the Georgian nation became more end of the Bagrationi Dynasty. and more popular among Georgians.

One century later, at the end of the 20th Independence. On April 9, 1989, a century, the Georgian nation experien- peaceful Georgian demonstration was

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 031 brutally repressed by the Soviet army. in 2003 and re-elected in 2008. The Following this event, the Georgian government - mainly West-oriented - parliament declared independence on aims to join NATO and tries to recover April 9, 1991 after the collapse of the control over the whole Georgian terri- Soviet Union. The nationalist Zviad tory. Since 2006 foreign relations with Gamsakhurdia was elected President of Russia have deteriorated unequivocally. the Republic of Georgia until a military coup deposed him at the end of 1991 and de facto brought Eduard Shevard- nadze to office. Shevardnadze officially became the second President of Geor- gia in 1995 and was re-elected in 2000 although there were some clear allega- tions of vote-rigging.

The country suffered a few years of instability and economic crisis. From 1991 to 1995 the country was in a state of civil war. At the same time territorial conflicts occurred with different secessionist regions: Adjara, South Ossetia and Abkhazia. The war in Abkhazia in 1992 and 1993 especially provoked dramatic massive internal displacements of many Georgians from Abkhazia. These Internal Displaced People (IDPs) left their homes behind and settled in many cities of Georgia. Ethnic cleansing took place during this war which opposed mainly Abkhazians and North Cauca- sians people to Georgians.

In 2003, Eduard Shevardnadze resigned as a consequence of the popular bloodless Rose Revolution. Since then, the President of the country has been Mikheil Saakashvili, who was elected

032 . . . Facts and Figures . . . Georgia saqarTvelo

Georgia is called sakartvelo saqar- tries: the Russian Federation North, Tvelo by Georgians themselves, Azerbaijan East, and Armenia and Tur- their language is kartuli qarTuli, and key South. The Black Sea borders Geor- Georgians name themselves kartvelebi gia on the West. Due to the separatist qarTvelebi. This name comes from regions of Abkhazia and South-Ossetia, Kartlos who, according to the legend, there are internal borders which are is the father of Georgians. The interna- recognised by neither the international tional name Georgia can be explained community nor Georgia. in several ways - the Greek and Latin roots of Georgia mean “tiller of the The climate in Georgia is very diverse land” or “agriculture” but it might also considering the small dimension of the come from Saint George, the most ad- country. Georgia is protected from the mired Saint in the country. cold air mass in the North by the Grea- ter Caucasus Mountain Range and from Below basic facts about the country are the dry and hot air masses in the South detailed giving a general picture about by the Lower Caucasian Mountains. In present Georgia. the Western part of the country the climate is considered as humid subtro- Geography. Georgia is situated in the pical while in the Eastern part it varies Trans-Caucasian region, between Eu- from humid subtropical to continental. rope, Asia and the Middle East, on the Some areas in the mountainous areas territory located between the Black are snow-covered most of the year. and Caspian Seas. The country is na- Due to these various climates, the turally bordered on the North by the country features an amazing collection Greater Caucasus Mountain Range and of extreme landscapes: high mountains, on the South by the Lower Caucasus semi-deserts, semi-tropical forests with Mountain Range. luxurious vegetation, rivers, lakes, the Black Sea coast, etc. Georgia has four neighbouring coun-

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 033 Around 4.5 million people are estima- The actual President is Mikheil Saakas- ted to live in Georgia. The main emigra- hvili. Brought to power by the Rose Re- ted Georgian communities are in Turkey, volution he was re-elected on January 5, Russia, the USA and Western Europe. 2008 in the first round of the election An unknown amount of refugees are with about 53 % of the votes. In 2008 also living in Georgia: they mainly come during the elections some fraud and from Chechnya. The two main minori- irregularities were observed, but the ties living in Georgia are Armenians and Organisation for Security and Co-ope- Azerbaijanis. ration in Europe (OSCE) confirmed the results. Mikheil Saakashvili is one of the The demographic density of Georgia is youngest Presidents in Europe. about 64 inhabitants per square kilo- metre. The Netherlands in comparison The legislative branch consists of a uni- have a density of 393 and Malta Island cameral parliament with 150 members of 1272. In some remote mountainous of which 75 are elected by proportional Georgian areas, nobody can be found. representation and 75 from single-seat constituencies. The parliament serves The capital city is Tbilisi. The number for five years. of inhabitants is usually estimated to be 1.8 million. However it is difficult to Economics. The currency is called Lari find the exact number of people living lari and is usually written GEL. 100 in the capital due to the high number of Tetri TeTri correspond to 1 Lari. No- Internally Displaced People (IDPs) from tes of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 Abkhazia and South Ossetia. GEL and coins of 5, 10, 20, 50 Tetri and 1 and 2 GEL can be found. The currency Politics. Georgia became independent was launched in 1995 by President She- from the Soviet Union on April 9, 1991. vardnadze in order to replace the temporary currency Kupon Lari chosen for Georgia is a Republic which is admi- the period following the independence. nistratively divided into nine regions, The exchange rate to the Euro varies one city and two autonomous regions, from €2.15 up to €2.40. Abkhazia and South Ossetia. The political system is semi-presidential with a di- In 2006, the official rate of inflation was rectly elected president for a five years 8.8 %. This high inflation rate has some term as the head of the state and of the impact on daily life - e.g. the price of a government. bus or metro ticket doubled on July 1, 2007 from 20 Tetri to 40 Tetri, or the

034 . . . Facts and Figures . . . price of bread increased by 10 to 20 Education. School education is or- Tetri during the second semester of ganised in two stages: primary and se- 2007. condary education. While primary education that includes primary and basic The median salary is fairly low in com- school, is compulsory for nine years, se- parison with European averages: a uni- condary education is optional and leads versity teacher, according to his rank, to a diploma that gives access to higher earns between 200 and 400 GEL a education. The primary school enrol- month. Considering that salaries are of- ment rate is 93 % while the secondary ten low and not increasing, using public enrolment rate is about 82 %. The lite- transportation or buying daily products racy rate is similar to the literacy rates are too expensive for some people. in Western European countries - unfortunately due to difficulties to measure The Gross Domestic Product (GDP) literacy in Georgia, UNICEF does not per capita in Georgia, according to the publish any official literacy rate for the World Bank, was US$1,560 in 2006. country. Considering the economy by sectors shows figures of a developed country Higher education is provided by a broad with a contribution to the GDP of 13.5 range of public and private institutions. % for agriculture, 25.9 % for industry Since Georgia entered the Bologna and 60.6 % for services. However, the Process in 2005, academic studies have statistics indicating employment by sec- been divided in a three year Bachelor’s tors tell us a different story: about 50 % degree, a two year Master’s degree and of the working population is employed a three year Doctoral degree. Since in agriculture while only around 9 % is the reform of higher education, bribing in industry. which was common before for entering university or passing exams, have mainly The rate of unemployment in Georgia disappeared. Universities and higher is around 12 % but differs a lot among education schools are still developing regions and cities. and implementing the new academic structure. The Human Development Index (HDI) of Georgia is considered to be average Languages. Georgia has two official (between 0.750 and 0.799 on a scale languages: Georgian and Abkhazian, due of 1). In comparison Poland is scaled to the autonomous status of Abkhazia. between 0.850 and 0.899 and France Georgian qarTuli (kartuli), the most over 0.950. common South Caucasian language is

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 035 spoken by around 4.1 million people. Holidays. The Official holidays are: Megrelian, Svan and Lza are other South . New Year (January 1st) Caucasian languages. The currently used . Orthodox Christmas (January 7th) alphabet is called mkhedruli mxedruli . Epiphany (January 19th) and features 33 characters. The written . Mother’s Day (March 3rd) alphabet does not distinguish lowercase . International Women’s Day (March and uppercase. Georgian language has 8th) nine noun cases but no articles. It uses . National Unity Day (April 9th) postpositions, agglutination and word . Orthodox Good Friday, Great Satur- derivation. The Georgian counting sys- day, Easter Sunday and Easter Monday tem is based on 20, known as a vigesi- (following the Julian calendar) mal system. . Victory Day (May 9th) . Saint Andrew’s Day (May 12th) Due to Georgia long belonging to the . Independence Day (May 26th) Soviet Union, most Georgians speak . Dormition Day (August 28th) Russian. A lot of signs or restaurant . Day of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of menus are still displayed in Russian Mtskheta (October 14th) and Georgians are switching naturally . Saint George’s Day (November 23rd) to Russian when they meet foreigners. In some regions of Georgia, the most In Georgia, the Orthodox Church fol- spoken languages are Azerbaijani or Ar- lows the Julian calendar. Religious events menian considering that these commu- take place according to this calendar, nities are dominant there. English is not and not according to the Gregorian ca- very common yet but nowadays young lendar, which is followed by Catholics people are mostly learning English ins- or Protestants. Therefore Christmas tead of Russian. and New Year happen on different days according to the calendar you refer to. Religion. Georgia was the second state to adopt Christianity in the 4th century. The Orthodox Religion remains very important in the lives of Georgians. Around 84 % of them are Orthodox. Religious minorities include Islam (10%), the Armenian Apostolic Church (3%), Roman Catholicism and Judaism (both less than 1 %).

036 . . . Facts and Figures . . . Open Questions

Georgia since its independence from cially split, Georgia will encounter un- the Soviet Union has been having diffi- solvable problems. Understandably, the culties at diverse levels. Besides econo- frozen conflicts in Abkhazia and South mic problems and poverty, the country Ossetia, and the estimated 280,000 faces difficulties in its democratic Internally Displaced People (IDPs) development and hardly reaches its living in Georgia, are the main political goals concerning human rights, regional question marks. It is unclear when and conflicts, gender equality, etc. how the conflicts will be solved, if the IDPs will safely go back to their homes Below the challenges that Georgia or if the independence of these two presently faces are listed and they are secessionist regions will be recognised those the volunteer will be confronted by the international community, and if to. that happened, how the governments then in charge would deal with the This part should be used as an orien- IDPs and their belongings. tation sheet for future volunteers - it states possible working fields for Volunteers will be confronted with the volunteers. existence of the two frozen conflicts. Even if they are not directly involved Territory. The territorial integrity of in activities for the peaceful resolution Georgia is one of the main issues here: of these conflicts, they will surely be in Abkhazia and South Ossetia are two contact with groups connected to the separatists regions which declared conflicts, especially if the hosting orga- their independence but did not acquire nisation has IDPs as target groups. it because of the lack of recognition from the international community and Economic Development. Georgia, from Georgia itself - their status re- since the independence, has underta- mains unclear. As long as the territory ken deep changes to transit from so- will not be fully under control or offi- cialism to capitalism. Unfortunately, on

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 037 one hand luxurious hotels and shops mental Organisations, torture and so are flourishing in the centre of Tbilisi on. The Human Rights of minorities or and along the Black Sea coast, while fragile groups like religious and ethnic on the other hand, remote areas have minorities, refugees, homosexuals, difficulties with supplies delivery. Geor- disabled people, women and children gians can hardly manage their finances are, according to international orga- and if current expenditures increase nisations, often violated. Nevertheless significantly every month, it is definitely it seems that the general situation not the case of salaries. The unem- is improving, even when journalists ployment rate is fairly high in major encounter some restrictions of their cities while the only activity in smaller freedom of expression since Saakas- cities or countryside areas is farming. hvili became President of the Republic For this group of people - who are the of Georgia. majority in the country - setting-up a small company or business is not affor- Raising awareness on Human Rights dable. The state encounters difficulties in Georgia is a great challenge for in providing support to people and volunteers, considering that the few lacks a strategy for employment. organisations existing and working on this issue are lacking workers and/ or When coming to Georgia, a volunteer professionalism. Even in an organi- might be involved in small business sation non-specifically focusing on development projects. Some organisa- Human Rights, some actions might be tions are specialised in supporting the undertaken. creation of sustainable companies by giving advice and micro-loans, and by NB: Because Human Rights concern a following the evolution of the projects lot of different subjects and interests, and the benefits for the families behind several issues - which are included the companies and the community. under the Human Rights title - are developed below. They are of a parti- Human Rights. Georgia is classified cular importance for the country and as a middle ranking country as for Hu- volunteers, and therefore need to be man Rights. Some violations of Human mentioned in more detail. Rights have been and are still observed at different levels: freedom of speech, Integration of Minorities. Several living conditions of vulnerable groups minorities are living in Georgia - the (IDPs, disabled, etc.), illegal arrests and main two are Armenians and Azerbai- impunity, pressure on Non-Govern- janis. Minorities are most of the time

038 . . . Facts and Figures . . . living among themselves - cooperation Georgian society, it remains easy to and contacts between the different state that gender equality is an issue communities are not frequent. In here. Men and women do not have the some regions of Georgia even closed same influences and roles in spheres minority settlements are to be found like politics, the economy or education. in which the inhabitants do not speak Knowing that this is also an issue in any Georgian. In those regions, the Western countries, it is needed to minority languages are the communi- add that the gap between genders is cation languages among the members a lot wider in Southern Caucasus. The of these communities. While in Soviet emancipation of women is a challenge: times Russian linked Georgians and working outside the family, living alone, the minorities together, nowadays marrying a chosen person, going out children do not learn Russian at school or visiting friends are not as free as in anymore. These Georgian citizens, like Western countries. Besides, gender their parents already do, might meet roles are usually divided as follow: a difficulties for further integration - the man is considered as the one providing first of these difficulties is clearly the money to the household while a wo- language barrier. To solve this current man should take care of children and problem the government is trying to house chores. Because these roles are implement closer cooperation and currently undergoing deep change, you specific educational structures. But the can commonly hear some very ambiva- issue survives nevertheless. lent statements from Georgians about their future household. Nevertheless Some organisations are actively women can get to very high positions working on building bridges between in politics or business, often thanks communities. Volunteers might be to hard work and family concessions. involved in minority issues if working Finding compromises between reality, in an organisation targeting minori- tradition and Western influence is defi- ties. Being involved in activities aiming nitely hard for the present generation. at enhancing the awareness of the differences and similarities between As a volunteer being just and fair as for communities is a real challenge for vo- gender equality in Georgia is perso- lunteers because plenty of stereotypes nally and professionally challenging. exist among Caucasians. Even if volunteering projects are not directly gender-related, volunteers will Gender Equality. Considering the for sure face situations where overco- different commitments of genders in ming prejudice and negative behaviour

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 039 is needed. More directly, some training Citizenship and Participation. and gender equality workshops open Georgians are in general not very to Georgians of all ages are highly motivated to take part in public life as needed. active citizens. Creating events, volunteering or participating in informal acti- Democratic Development. Georgia vities are uncommon. The lack of active has undertaken some deep reforms in participation in non-profit activities is the political field since independence, probably due to the state of the eco- and even faster since Saakashvili came nomy in the country and to cultural into office. Some significant reforms and historical characteristics, but it have been undertaken successfully like is somehow a factual reality. Beyond for example the Police reform which the first impression of frustration and put a final stop to daily corruption. no hope you may get at first, you will However some illegal actions against find young people particularly, when democratic principles were and are still opportunities arise, can seize them observed: election rigging, pressures on ingeniously and be able to participate political parties, low freedom of speech or implement projects and activities. If on internal affairs, etc. Because the initiative is stimulated and information Western-oriented government allows on what is possible spread, Georgian international investment to enter the society will most probably evolve into country easily, international authorities a society with less poverty and more often ignore these transgressions of equality. democratic principles - e.g. the observation of election rigging by OSCE in Being a volunteer in Georgia gives the 2008 was somewhat minimised. example that it is possible to learn differently from studying in schools and Volunteers will be confronted with this universities or from working profes- issue especially if their activities takes sionally. Furthermore, a volunteer, place in an organisation surveying, through his or her commitment to observing or criticizing democratic the implementation of grass-rooted processes. Monitoring elections, obser- projects and through his or her will ving corruption at different levels, or to take responsibilities in the local simply following politics in the media community will pass around his enthu- are of high interest for volunteers to siasm for informal education and will understand the state of democratic probably generate initiatives from and development in Georgia. for Georgians.

040 . . . Facts and Figures . . . Non-Governmental Scene. In cantly over recent years, in the same Georgia plenty of Non-Governmental way as in most so called “developing or Governmental Organisations are countries”. Infection is mainly due to registered: officially around 4,000. But unprotected sexual relations and the registration does not mean activity exchange of used IV needles. Since and only a few hundreds of them are sexual relations among young people actually active. According to Western go against social norms almost no standards the structure of a lot of prevention or information is available organisations is very often unclear. for young people on HIV/ AIDS, the Workers might not have specific infection routes and consequences. tasks or positions. They are very often Also information is hardly available volunteers, combining this activity with to prevent the common practice of other non-paid or paid activities. This sharing IV needles for drug users. Both often decreases the sense of involve- issues - drug use and sexual relations ment or responsibility. Organisations - can hardly be addressed in schools might be active only a few months a because they remain taboos among year. Moreover, an organisation might Georgians and therefore prevention lack internal coordination and com- can only be implemented slowly. munication. Finding or giving support, or even sharing ideas and experiences Volunteers can get directly involved with the workers is a challenge in itself. with this issue by organising and/or There is a real need for developing conducting discussions on HIV/ AIDS structured activities and cooperation prevention. They will encounter within Georgian organisations. difficulties to deal with gender roles, sexual relations or drugs abuse among As a volunteer, it might be hard to deal the participants, but these activities are or cooperate with an unorganised highly needed and important. structure, but on the other hand, it gives you great freedom to take initia- Environment. In Georgia, the tives and develop activities or projects consciousness of ecology or the from scratch or to enhance coopera- environment is still developing. As a tion among workers by taking part in Westerner you will probably be shoc- already existing projects. ked to see taps wasting litres of water an hour or people throwing their HIV/ AIDS Prevention. The actual trash out the window of their cars. number of HIV positive persons in Everything has to be developed here Georgia has been increasing signifi- concerning ecology and sustainability.

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 041 Considering the natural treasures of The priority of the government, which Georgia, its flora and fauna, working on is to develop a touristic infrastructure, protecting the biodiversity and raising does obviously lack a policy concerning sustainability awareness is particularly heritage protection leaving that task to relevant and important. Also since Non-Governmental Organisations or the country has not yet been spoiled international missions. by the invasion of tourism, and the agricultural system for instance is still Volunteers in Georgia can have a direct human in scale, decisions in favour of and indirect influence on heritage the environment have to be taken right preservation. By showing their respect now ahead of the present modernisa- to sites of high common interest, they tion of the country. will first of all help to raise awareness about the importance of heritage. They Various organisations are already can also directly participate by working working on raising awareness on on renovation or conservation sites environment protection and they defi- or by supporting a museum or an nitely need support from experienced archaeological site. and inexperienced volunteers clearly focused on sustainability with creative ideas and a high motivation.

Heritage Protection. Georgia possesses an incredibly rich cultural and natural heritage with castles, fortresses, churches, cathedrals, medieval towers, industrial heritage too, as well as landscapes, rare flora and many other treasures. Three sites are registered as UNESCO World Heritage which provides them with specific protection and support: Bagrati Cathedral and Gelati Monastery in Kutaisi, the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta and the Up- per Svaneti region. Due to the lack of funds for conservation and rehabilitation, most of the archaeological, architectural and environmental sites suffer.

042 . . . Facts and Figures ...... Facts and Figures . . . 043

European Volunteer’s Testimony

“European Voluntary Service... To be honest I had never heard about it, until I came to Georgia for voluntary work. And to be even more honest, I had never even contemplated going to Georgia either. My decision to go there came out of the blue, but hey, I had finished my studies and I had no real further plans, so why not go?

After a few weeks imagining I was on a very long holiday, reality hit me. ‘Why did I decide to come to Georgia?’ My projects were not developing the way I wished, I didn’t have the impression of doing anything useful, and I missed my friends and family. Georgia’s strange ways could only make me angry and feel even more depressed. All I wanted was to go home.

But as weeks went by, my activities as a trainer started to pick up, I met new people and started to feel more at home in Tbilisi. I noticed how good it felt to show the city to friends who came over, and when I returned from a short trip to Armenia I realised I was very happy to be back. Georgia and Tbilisi had become my home.”

Warm Sulphur Springs, near Zugdidi 045

Arts, Crafts and Customs

Arts, Crafts and Customs offers fundamentals about Georgian culture and you will never come to the end of it in Georgia. This part gives therefore a short tour on what Georgia has to offer in terms of legends, customs, cuisine, architecture or renowned people. At the end, a short directory is given, featuring places and events which will help you to become familiar with diverse aspects of Georgian culture.

This chapter aims at giving basics concerning culture for further understanding Georgian cultural particularities.

Men in Traditional Costumes 047 Once Upon a Time

Georgia is the country of legends where they would raise their children. and stories. Thousands of myths exist Every group, except one. and each of them illustrates different aspects of Georgian culture, creating When every human was busy finding together an immense mosaic of hidden a place to settle, one group of people memories. It is the truth to say we can was just enjoying themselves by eating find a legend about every single stone delicious dishes, drinking the nectar of we come across. grapes and sharing their emotions with their closest relatives. They all praised Below are three of the most famous God together. These people were legends that Georgians would proudly Georgians. tell to newcomers. After having enjoyed their Supra, they The Creation of Georgia. This came to God and asked, last but not legend is the most famous in Georgia. least, for a piece of land where they It features diverse endings or compo- could settle for good once and for all. nents according to the story-teller. It God, annoyed, replied that He did not is very similar to the legend told by have any space left. He had already other ethnic groups in the Caucasus, given everything. like Armenians, Abkhazians or Circas- sians. But, one special piece of land had been left for God himself. It was like God created the universe, the earth Paradise. It was the only place in the and all the beauties that our world of- world where the sea met with snow- fers. All nations came to God in order capped mountains, where the soil from to ask for a piece of land, to settle, to deserts, forests, grasslands offered the build their homes and develop their most delicious fruits, where the most civilisations. All of them came and God beautiful species of birds, butterflies found a perfect place on earth for all and bears were living in harmony,

048 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . where there was always enough water out a dragon tooth and fight with the for nature and where the sunshine and army of men who would come out of the moon revealed the hidden beauty it. Medea, the daughter of King Aeetes, of every single stone, tree, waterfall who was skilled in potion making and and flower... magic, had fallen in love with Jason and she promised to help him if he married Although He had prepared this Pa- her. Jason accepted the agreement and radise with specific care and love for thanks to Medea’s potions he managed Himself, God saw the good in those to survive Aeetes’ challenges and steal latecomers and recognised that they the Golden Fleece from the dragon truly believed in his grace. that guarded it. Medea and Jason fled then to Greece where they got mar- And since that time this Paradise is ried and had two children. inhabited by Georgians. The legend features different endings. Jason and the Golden Fleece. This The most popular and common one legend or myth characterises different is based on the lore of the Greek aspects of Georgian culture and is one tragedian Euripides. Medea, suffering of the prides of Georgians. from destructive jealousy because her husband left her for Glauke - the Jason, a Prince of Thessaly, had been daughter of the Corinthian King Creon challenged by his uncle, Pelia, to travel - killed Glauke and the two sons she to the land of Colchis, on the Eastern had had with Jason in order to save shores of the Black Sea in order to her pride and take revenge. find the Golden Fleece. Jason accompanied by forty-nine Greeks crossed seas The actual city where King Aeetes and storms thanks to the ship named welcomed Jason and the Argonauts has “Argo” built especially for that mission. not officially been identified, but a lot of evidence brings us to the conclusion Jason and his sailors, known as Ar- that it might be the town of Vani, 40 gonauts, arrived in Western Georgia, km West of Kutaisi or the town of probably in Poti and sailed into the Sikhagodji between Poti and Kutaisi. Phaisi River, the actual Rioni. Welcomed These two places, where archaeolo- by the King Aeetes, Jason was told that gical excavations are currently under he would get the Golden Fleece if he way, display evidence of settlement as fulfilled the following tasks: to yoke far back as 3500 BCE. fire-breathing bulls to a plough, pull

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 049 Note the word “medicine” derives from the name Medea.

King Vakhtang and Tbilisi. The creation of the city of Tbilisi is explained and described by different legends, but the one concerning King Vakhtang is certainly the most important.

King Vakhtang had been hunting the whole day with his troop on horses accompanied by their dogs. They killed some pheasants. The whole day long, they tried to find those killed pheasants, but unfortunately because of the hilly landscape, they could not managed to discover where these birds felt down injured or dead.

At the end of the hunting day, King Vakhtang finally discovered the pheasants in the warm sulphuric natural springs and they were perfectly cooked. King Vakhtang sat down for a feast during which the magically delicious pheasants were eaten. Because of that, King Vakhtang declared that the capital city of his Kingdom would be created on that very spot and called Tbilisi, from the Georgian word tbili which means “warm”.

Since then, Tbilisi has been the capital city of Georgia, built on the sulphuric springs which can still be visited in the old downtown.

050 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . Guest and God

Georgians are famous all around the is not common and it is even harsher world for their sense of hospitality. when you are a foreigner. In some Newcomers might be surprised or specific cases it might be taken as rude feel awkward about how Georgians when e.g. refusing to drink for a special take fully care of their guests. Hence, toast during a dinner. Georgians usually hospitality is very different here from organise everything for their guests so Western cultures. The symbol of this that they can relax and do not need to hospitality, the “Mother of Georgia” is worry about any issue. Therefore they presenting a bowl and a dagger: a guest often use the saying “don’t worry”, is treated as a King while Georgians meaning that they are taking care of will fight to death against an enemy. the coordination of activities and that the guest does not need to be concer- A guest is considered to be sent by ned. Guests are not expected to help God and therefore Georgians treat with house chores, especially if these him as such. From dawn to dusk food guests are men. is offered, help provided in any situation and entertainment where they The Georgian sense of hospitality is reside. Georgians spend the best they also reflected in their curiosity to- have and do the best they can for their wards foreigners. Georgians commonly guest. It happens often that what is ask where a foreigner is from, what he presented is something that the hosts is doing in Georgia, why he is in Geor- cannot afford for themselves. However, gia and sometimes even how much he Georgians enjoy the present moment earns. This attention is pure curiosity. fully by spending savings and belongings to honour guests and people they A Georgian dinner, called supra, is love. Therefore guests should deeply another characteristic expressing honour what they receive. hospitality. Every meal which gathers people around a table where cold and Refusing what is presented or offered warm food and beverages are served

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 051 can be considered as a supra. On such any kind of gratitude in form of a toast, an occasion, the guests are entertai- the agreement of the tamada is needed ned by the toastmaster, called tamada, - he is the master of the supra. who announces improvised toasts on different topics - the present gathe- Another particular characteristic ring, the family, peace, Georgia, future of Georgian culture is the role of generations, etc. The toastmaster is spirituality. Georgians display a high responsible for the recurring cycle level of spirituality, they believe in of toasts and their themes and he God and mainly do not question his should make sure that the guests are existence. Therefore, religious conven- not getting drunk. Some rules do exist tions influence social life deeply - the concerning the order of the toasts, breakdown of the Soviet Union has especially for important events like brought a revival of Orthodox tradi- weddings, christenings, etc. The best tions in Georgia. Even though it is not tamadas are generally introducing their common for everybody to regularly toasts with poems and quotes from attend services, many people go to famous Georgian writings. Each toast church for exceptional events like Eas- ends with saying “gaumardjos!” During ter, Christmas or Dormition Day. Many a supra, wine has generally to be drunk Georgians cross themselves three bolomde meaning in one single gulp by times when going by a religious place, everyone, with special exceptions for but only a minority fast during holy pe- women. It is common to drink out of riods. However the life of a Georgian is horns of different sizes and to empha- cadenced by religious ceremonies from size that the whole content is drunk birth to death - christenings, weddings by turning the horn up-side down. The and funerals always take place in an merikipe, the assistant to the tamada, Orthodox Church. Georgians refer to pours the wine so that every toast is the Bible and a Priest’s words count a done with a full glass. Sometimes the lot concerning a plenty of issues. tamada appoints another person for alaverdi; this person is then responsible One of the first questions a Georgian for elaborating the tamada’s toasts. might ask a foreigner is if he believes in God. Georgians are generally surprised Georgians commonly toast in honour or disappointed to hear that the fo- of their guests. In that case, the guests reigner is an atheist while every other should gently thank the tamada and Christian religion seems fine to them the people who are adding comments. – at least the person believes in God. To reply to such a toast or to express No matter whether the foreigner is an

052 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . atheist or not, Georgians will always take a foreign guest to one of the famous churches or monasteries.

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 053 Taste of Georgia

As described in the former chapter, long table is fully surrounded by the Georgians are hospitable and guests sitting participants who usually are in are considered to have been sent by great number. No specific rules exist God. Guests are getting all the family for the beginning of the dinner. The can afford, from attention to support, meal is always cadenced by the toasts through food and beverages - it is brought by the toastmaster, tamada. highly important for Georgians to propose a feast with vast quantities of Khachapuri. The most specific quality food. Georgian dish might be khachapuri xaWapuri. This kind of flat cheese-pie Georgian cuisine is diverse and rich. It or bread is eaten at anytime, anywhere: is the central element of the traditional for a quick lunch, during a supra, for Georgian feast, called supra sufra. breakfast, etc. Every region possesses The cuisine features specific regional a variant of it. The regional variation and familial influences but is generally from Adjara has the shape of a long very tasty and spicy. Meat has got the piece of bread which offers an egg, main place on the table but plenty of some butter and cheese on top. The vegetables, cheese and cereal-based guest should take small pieces of bread dishes are proposed too. from the sides and moister them in the egg in the middle. In Samegrelo, the The Feast. A Georgian feast features pie features cheese on the top as well. no specific order - usually the cold Similar to khachapuri is lobiani lo- dishes come first, the warm dishes af- biani which is a pie filled with beans, ter, but they are all staying on the table common in South Ossetia. In Svaneti all along. Several hot courses are gene- khachapuri is filled with meat. rally served. Everyone garnishes their own plates as they wish. Dishes cover Meat. Khinkali xinkali are very the table fully and it may even become common and appreciated in Georgia. hard to find some empty space. The These dumplings are made of a mix

054 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . of different meat, generally pork and is a dish of spinach or beetroot with beef with spices and herbs, cooked walnuts, garlic and pomegranate seeds. in dough. The final shape looks like Mushrooms soko (soko) are a very a middle-sized mushroom. They are important component of Georgian served alone and it is not needed to cuisine. They are cooked in clay pots, add anything except pepper. Eating with herbs, cheese and spices. them is a real ceremony: after having made a hole into the dough, the eater Sauces. Georgian cuisine features a should drink the juice, and only then lot of different sauces always present eat the whole khinkali without letting on the table. Different types of tkhemali drops of juice fall onto the plate. The tyemali exist which are made from guest should not eat the top of the red or green plums. Both variations dough, which is not totally cooked, use coriander, garlic and other herbs and should keep it on the plate for and feature diverse tastes from sour or it to be possible to count how many sweet to spicy. Then adjika ajika, is a khinkali someone ate - less than fifteen hot chilli paste that suits grilled meats per person is considered as improper. perfectly. This paste is based on a mix In fasting periods or for vegetarians, of spices which has the same name. Georgian khinkali also exist filled with mushrooms or potatoes. Cheese and Yoghurt. Georgian cuisine proposes different kinds of Other meat dishes mainly include cheese. Cheese has its own role in kababi qababi, a mix of meats of cooked dishes or can be proposed as a different origins (lamb, beef, etc.) rolled side dish. Commonly Georgian cheeses up in lavash bread, and mtsvadi mwvadi, are salty with a strong taste. Megrelian barbecued meat, also called shashlik. suluguni suluguni can be served plain or smoked. Matsoni mawoni, Vegetables. Several vegetarian dishes Georgian yoghurt, is commonly eaten are also part of the Georgian table. for breakfast on a slide of bread, but is Cucumber and tomato salad is the also mixed with fresh mint leaves and main salad served with or without spices. In the same way, kefiri kefiri, walnuts, green leaves, and green or red liquid yogurt-like fermented milk, is peppers. Badrijani badrijani is a dish healthy and tasty, especially after abu- made of walnut and garlic pasta rolled ses of food or alcohol. up in eggplant slices. Potatoes, cooked in different ways, also have a place Breads and Cereals. Georgians on the dinner table. Pkhali fxali eat bread everyday. Bread is flat and

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 055 circular or long according to the not be complete without mentioning regions the baker is from. Called puri the importance of wine in Georgian puri, it is cooked in a grounded society. Almost every family is produ- or semi-grounded oven called tone cing a homemade wine from white or Tone. Corn is also used as a base for red grapes with a specific old techni- different dishes - e.g. the small mchadi que using grape peels, which requires mWadi bread or the porridge called patience but enhances the healthy ghomi Romi. Moreover, specific dishes properties of the produced wine. Due like kababi are accompanied by very to the archaeological evidences, one thin and flat bread, like pancakes, called can say that Georgia is one of the first lavash. countries of the world where wine was made. Currently more than 500 Sweets. Georgians are delighted by different grapes are cultivated across chocolate, caramel and walnuts’ cakes the country, making Georgia one of the that women cook on special occasions countries with the most diverse wines. like birthdays, Christmas or for special guests. The main Georgian sweet is Mukuzani mukuzani, Saperavi safe- called churchkhela CurCxela: some ravi, Kvanchkara xvanWkara - this walnuts or nuts are lined up on a very last Stalin liked best - are considered thin cord and covered by white or red as the best red wines, while Tsinandali grape syrup. Dried, these sweets can winandali is recognised as a great be found everywhere, in shops and su- white wine. Some sparkling wines do permarkets, or on vending stalls along also exist: Bagrationi bagrationi, countryside roads. named after the Royal family, is the main one. Red, white, sweet, dry, semi- Beverages. Different types of mineral sweet, Georgia is the paradise for wine water exist in Georgia: they are mainly tasters and lovers. salty and sparkling. The most famous are Borjomi borjomi and Nabe- ghlavi nabeRlavi. Regarding alcohol, Georgians are producing a traditional strong spirit called chacha WaWa. Vodka is also commonly used. The most famous Georgian vodka is called Gomi gomi.

This tour of Georgian cuisine could

056 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . Architecture Directory

Architecture Directory aims at giving a Urban Structure. Urban density is general idea of the state of architec- quite low in Georgia. Cities are spread ture in Georgia. Visitors in Georgia horizontally, often along a river or a are encouraged to overcome the first road. Cities habitually feature a main glance and the current state of the square from where the main avenues constructions and to consider shapes, are departing from. Along the roads materials, structures, and mostly the and near bus and train stations, street- interrelations between inhabitants and markets are common. Single houses spaces. usually feature their own courtyards or gardens, useful for growing fruits By describing different architectonic and vegetables but covering a wider elements of the country, awareness territory. This space organisation raises concerning history, culture and influen- a transportation problem, especially in ces will be enhanced. Dwellings as well the capital, where going from one end as urban structure are direct sources to the other can take up to two hours, for feeling, discovering and analysing traffic jams being very common in the the cultural background of a country. centre of Tbilisi. Too often, Georgia suffers from negative stereotypes due to the impact of Housing. Houses differ a lot with the Soviet architecture on its urban envi- regions, because of the differences in ronment, whereas multiple influences climate, natural resources and lands- created a wide diversity of architecture cape. However, still nowadays, regional - monasteries and fortresses, housing houses are built as much as possible blocks, single wooden houses, defen- in function of the climate and environ- sive stone towers, etc. ment. The wind and the sunshine, the soil, the views, the materials and their Therefore Architecture Directory offers a characteristics are elements which short overview on Georgian architec- are taken into consideration for the ture and its treasures. orientation of the houses and the

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 057 construction itself. for this lack of personal living space. While it is common for Georgians to Regional houses commonly feature a own their dwellings, rented apartments ground floor used for keeping tools are usually fully furnished including and materials or for harbouring ani- cutlery. mals at night. This functions as insula- tion for the first floor where the family Finally, because of the diversity of na- lives. In regions with a humid climate, tural resources and climates, Georgian like in Western Georgia, houses are houses are built from very different ty- very often built on pillars not higher pes of materials. In Tbilisi, the old cen- than one meter allowing good ventila- tre features great examples of wooden tion under the house. In the same way or brick houses, while most of the the veranda on the first floor, running constructions of the last century or the whole length of the house, is used today are made of concrete. Facades as an entrance area and as a social of new buildings are mostly covered place where children play and adults by different types of plasters. It is rare spend their time. to see some other materials used on facade like for example wood which Inside dwellings differ from region to is becoming popular only in high-stan- region but some essential similarities dard housing in the capital or on the can be observed. Most of the houses Black Sea coast. Metallic structures are do not feature any small-sized rooms very rarely employed in the capital but - generally all rooms are of similar are common for the balconies of single size even if they have different uses. houses in the regions where metallic Spatial functions are interchangeable. A sheets are also used for roofs. specific room does not correspond to a particular use but can host different Exceptional Sites. Georgia offers a activities. During the day a room can high number of sites with historical be used as a living room, while during and architectural value. The several the night it is transformed into a slee- places below hold a particular impor- ping space. It is rare for a person to tance to understand the way of living have his or her own room, several peo- of Georgians through history. ple stay in one room. The lack of space in an apartment, the high differences First, Georgia features several cave among incomes, the prices of flats or towns. These cities, situated inside rental costs as well as family structures rocks, used to host thousands of in- are probably four of the several factors habitants. The most famous cave town

058 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . in Georgia, which is considered as a potential for architectural, historical national pride, is Vardzia, situated in and religious tourism. Page 016 is South Georgia. This cave town hosted presenting a picture of the Gergeti Tri- Queen Tamar during the 12th century nity Church, one of the most famous and accommodated about 50,000 peo- monasteries in Georgia because of its ple. Moreover, David Gareji’s cave town exceptional location at an altitude of in the East of the country features very 2,400m, facing the 5,047m high Mount well preserved frescos back from the Kazbeg. 10th century while Uplistsikhe cave town near Gori features visible supply Another site of exception is the old installations - see picture on page 104. centre of Tbilisi which is significant because of its structure and its construc- Likewise, few regions in Georgia fea- tions. Buildings obviously suffer from ture some defensive medieval towers: lack of funds for rehabilitation and Svaneti, Tusheti, Racha. These towers, the earthquake of 2002 additionally which were built with plaster made of damaged a lot of constructions, espe- egg whites and yolks, were intended to cially those situated on fragile bases or host the whole family in case of inva- instable soil. Constructions are in real sions, hide personal treasures and be a and urgent need for renovation and defence against enemies. Built from the reinforcement. There, different religious 9th to the 12th century, only the towers buildings, a mosque, a synagogue, an of the Upper Svaneti region are listed Orthodox church and an Armenian under the UNESCO World Heritage church, are situated next to each other, List - see picture on page 126 - but all demonstrating the tolerance and multi- of them are built in the breathtaking culturalism of the city. Tbilisi, which was landscapes at the feet of the Greater situated on the Silk Road, underwent Caucasus Mountain Range. many influences, and that is visible in its old centre: positioned along twisting Georgia possesses hundreds and hun- streets, homes feature wooden balco- dreds of places dedicated to spirituality nies and loggias, hidden courtyards and - monasteries, churches, cathedrals, etc. crafted doors. Styles and proportions Very often quite well preserved and of facades are of a great quality of still functioning as such, religious places conception and execution. Dwellings can be found in large numbers in the are mostly organised around a cour- capital and in the regions. Evidently tyard where social exchanges can take with this rich heritage, surrounded by place all day; in the same way apart- beautiful nature, Georgia has a great ments feature common balconies - as

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 059 shown page 138 - encouraging informal balconies were closed up to create an contacts with neighbours. additional room. The potential of these towers and blocks is unfortunately too Georgia, furthermore, offers plenty of often underestimated. The concrete castles, fortresses and fortified cities of structure provides possibilities for the significant interest. These are present redistribution of inside living space by all across the country and differ in moving or adding walls thus creating their accessibility, recognition, and cur- more diversity in the size and orga- rent state - from ruins to brand newly nisation of apartments. On page 072 renovated. In Tbilisi, Gori or Telavi, such the picture of two towers constructed fortifications are present. during the Soviet era situated on a hill offer a panoramic view of Tbilisi. Soviet Architecture. Georgia, by having been part of the Soviet Union Moreover, Georgia has a great number for several decades, has been affected of exceptional buildings, which were by deep changes in its urbanisation and built during the Soviet era: the best housing. Connected with the socialist known of them are the governmental ideology, most of Soviet constructions buildings - the Parliament, the current do not feature any ornaments on Post Office, or the former Consti- facades; others clearly exhibit their tutional Court now turned into the structure on their facades - e.g. the Kempinski Hotel, etc. The building inside stairs of a building give the shape presented on page 106 is located on and proportions of the facades. a sloped area along the river Mtkvari. The composition of parallelepipedic During Soviet times, due to the blocks assembled together at right urgent need for cheap living quarters, angle used to host some government blocks and towers were built in every offices and was granted some award middle-sized town and in the capital, for its spectacular architecture. intending to give every family living places with the same size or, at least, In the same way, Georgia features an a similar value. Surrounded by green industrial heritage from the Soviet era. areas, this type of building frequently Factories and industrial buildings are features balconies and in some cases generally simple parallelepipedic blocks on two different sides, allowing natural of huge scale, which do not feature light inside apartments. Because of the any particular qualities, but which are lack of financial resources and living potential and admirable structures for space, it is common to observe that office purposes, for example. Never-

060 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . theless, in some specific places, huge constructions can be found which feature interesting architectural elements with original shapes and proportions or ornaments. Often abandoned, they possess an exceptional potential for renovation and would be perfect places to harbour regional youth centres, exhibition halls or youth hostels.

A Run to Modernisation. Urban areas are currently evolving very fast. New constructions are appearing everyday everywhere. Mostly in the shape of skyscrapers or tower blocks of flats or offices, these new constructions do not, unfortunately, have any particular architectural interest. They are often low quality as for design as well as techniques. It is common to see, for example along the Black Sea coast, some constructions that are built at the beginning of the touristic season and which look terrible at the end of that same season. Though most architecture movements around the world advocate a form of sustainability, this is not yet the case in Georgia.

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 061 Personalities

Georgians are very proud of their a guest with the New York City Ballet. famous personalities and they surely She was allowed to perform outside should. In order to understand Geor- the Soviet Union due to the opening gian culture and nation, it is impossible policy of Mikhail Gorbachev. not to look at their renowned people. Plenty of Georgians became famous Davit Aghmashenebeli daviT across the country, in the Soviet Union aRmaSenebeli (1073 - 1125). Davit or the whole world - getting to know IV, called The Builder belonged to the the actions they undertook and what Bagrationi Dynasty and was King of they brought to the world is a great Georgia from 1089 to 1125. He is start to understand the Georgian considered to be the most success- psyche. ful Georgian King because he united Georgia by liberating it from Turkish The following personalities are known occupation. His historic victory in the and some admired among Georgians battle of Didgori in 1121 - he defeated because of their political, religious with 56,000 Georgian soldiers a much and/or artistic legacies. bigger Seljuq Turkish army - opened the way to liberate Tbilisi. Afterwards he appointed Tbilisi as the new capital a of Georgia. In his multiethnic Kingdom, Nino Ananiashvili nino ananiaS- religious freedom and tolerance were vili (1963 - ...). A Georgian balle- introduced. rina, she graduated from the Moscow Choreographic Institute in 1981. She then entered the Bolshoi Ballet and b was promoted to the rank of soloist in Lavrentiy Pavlovich Beria la- 1983. In 1988 she was the first ballet vrenti beria (1899 - 1953). A dancer from the Soviet Union, to- Soviet politician who was the head of gether with Andris Liepa, to perform as the People’s Commissariat for Internal

062 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . Affairs from 1938 to 1946, the secret died in unclear circumstances in a vil- police of the Soviet Union during the lage located in the region of Samegrelo. Stalinist era. Besides being responsible for the repression of the Georgian Lado Gudiashvili lado gudiaS- nationalist uprising in 1924 when up to vili (1896 - 1980). Gudiashvili is 10,000 people were executed, he was one of the most famous Georgian also involved in the Great Purge in the painter. His work, mainly inspired by late 1930’s and played a leading role in ballets, operas and theatre plays, was supervising the Soviet atomic bomb clearly influenced by the work of his project. fellow painter Pirosmani. After a stay in Paris, where he met artists like Modigliani, he returned to his native g land and belonged for a while to the Nona Gaprindashvili nona ga- Georgian poetry group named “The frindaSvili (1941 - ...). A famous Blue Horns”. His work includes mainly Georgian chess player, who was the paintings, but also some ink drawings, first woman to be awarded the title of book illustrations, and settings for Grandmaster. She became at the age of theatre plays and the cinema. 21 the women’s world chess champion and defended her title until 1978. She was one of the strongest female chess k players of her generation and she Kakhaber Kaladze kaxaber ka- was awarded the Grandmaster title laZe (1978 - ...). A famous Georgian following her impressive performance football player, who started his career in 1978. in Dinamo Tbilisi Football Club and moved then in 1998 to Dinamo Kyiv. Zviad Gamsakhurdia zviad He got in 2001 a contract as a defen- gamsaxurdia (1939 - 1993). As the der in AC Milan. Within this team, he first democratically elected President has been the first and only Georgian of independent Georgia, Gamsakhurdia player who won the title of the Cham- stayed in office from April 1991 to pions League. January 1992. From December 1991 to January 1992 heavy fighting took place in Tbilisi which ended with a coup n d’état. Gamsakhurdia escaped from the Saint Nino wm. nino. She is the Saint country and was de facto replaced by who converted Georgians from Paga- its opponent Eduard Shevardnadze. He nism to Christianity in the 4th century.

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 063 Georgia is the second country that Roelofs. officially adopted the Christian faith in 335. The legend said that she used to T live and pray at the place where the Queen Tamar Tamar mefe (1160 present Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in – 1213). The Queen of the Kingdom Mtskheta stands. of Georgia during the Golden Age (r. 1184 - 1212), she belonged to the Ba- grationi Dynasty. She is considered as r the best monarch ever in Georgia. Her Shota Rustaveli SoTa rusTa- subjects named her “King of Kings and veli. The main Georgian literature Queen of Queens”. During her reign, figure of the 12th century, Rustaveli significant advancements have been wrote the classic The Knight in the Pan- done concerning politics, secularity, ther’s Skin vefxistyaosani (vepkhis- literature, architecture, etc. A legend txaosani) during Queen Tamar’s reign. says that she was buried in Gelati One of the most famous quote from Monastery near Kutaisi. this epic poem might be “rasaca gascem Senia, rac ara - dakargulia” (rasatsa gastsem chenia, rats t ara - dakargulia) which means “that Galaktion Tabidze galaktion which we give makes us richer, that tabiZe (1891 - 1959). Mostly known which is hoarded is lost.” (Translation under his single name Galaktioni, he by Venera Urushadze) – a quote which is the most famous Georgian poet in truly illustrates Georgian culture. the 20th century. He deeply influenced Georgian poetry and literature with his thousands of writings and poems. One s of the most famous might be The wind Mikheil Saakashvili mixeil saa- blows qari qris (kari khris). Under kaSvili (1967 - ...). The present heavy pressure from Soviet authorities, President of the Republic of Georgia Galaktioni felt into depression and was elected after the bloodless Rose alcoholism and committed suicide in Revolution in 2003. He replaced 1959. Eduard Shevardnadze, the former president. He was re-elected on the January 5, 2008 in the first election f round. Mikheil Saakashvili is married to Pharnavaz I farnavazi I. He is a Dutch linguist and writer, Sandra E. known as the father of the medieval

064 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . version of the Georgian alphabet. He Georgia. was also the first King of Iberia. He probably reigned in the 3rd century BCE. S Eduard Shevardnadze eduard Niko Pirosmanashvili niko SevardnaZe (1928 - ...). Shevardnadze firosmanaSvili (1862 – 1918). was the second President of Georgia Commonly known under the name from 1991 to 1995 de facto - following of Niko Pirosmani, he was a Georgian the coup d’état - and from 1995 to fresco painter. His quasi-naïf paintings 2003 officially. He resigned following represented Georgian daily life and the Rose Revolution of 2003. Before culture but never religious themes getting into office, he used to work in which were more common in that Mikhail Gorbachev’s government as the period. His talent was recognised only Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Soviet after his death. Union.

Zakaria Paliashvili zaqaria faliaSvili (1871 - 1933). The W Georgian composer studied composi- Ilia Chavchavadze ilia Wa- tion at the Moscow Conservatory, and vWavaZe (1837 - 1907). A Georgian returned back to Georgia where he writer, poet, journalist and lawyer, and played an important role in the develo- considered as one of the fathers of pment of national music by collecting modern Georgia. He fought to increase folksongs and creating the Georgian Georgian national awareness by defen- Philharmonic Society. He was the di- ding the Georgian language and culture. rector of the Tbilisi Conservatory. The His writing career was dedicated to most famous of his compositions are Georgian culture. He was shot to Abesalom and Eteri, Daisi and Latavra. death near Mtskheta in 1907.

Vazha Pshavela vaJa fSavela (1861 - 1915). Pshavela is the pen- w name of the poet and writer Luka P. Akaki Tsereteli akaki wereTeli Razikashvili. Translated in more than (1840 - 1915). A prominent Georgian 20 languages around the world, he is writer and poet, he is considered as considered as a classic of Georgian one of the fathers of modern Georgia literature. He was involved in the together with his friend and colleague National-Liberation movement of Ilia Chavchavadze. He was involved in

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 065 the Georgian national movement.

Zurab Tsereteli zurab were- Teli (1934 - ...). Graduated from the Academy of Arts in Tbilisi, Tsereteli is known for his works as architect, sculptor and painter. Currently the President of the Russian Academy of Arts, he realised the sculpture of Peter the Great - which is about 90m high - on the Moskva riverbank in Moscow and the Tear of Grief, a sculpture dedicated to the victims of 9/11. j Ioseb Besarionis Dze Jughashvili ioseb besarionis Ze juRaS- vili (1878 - 1953). He was famous under the name of Joseph Stalin. Born in Gori in 1878 (officially 1879), he was the head of the Bolshevik party of the Soviet Union and the de facto leader of the Union from 1922 until his death. His chosen name “Stalin” came from Russian and basically means “Man of Steel”.

066 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . Inspirations

Inspirations is dedicated to give some Every Tuesday and Friday, shows are indications for delving into Georgian presented at the Pantomime Theatre. A culture. The following places and group of young people, in a very frien- events are recommended to those of dly ambiance, perform different Panto- you who desire to get to know the mime plays, mostly under the direction country and understand its culture and of Amiran Shalikashvili. Probably due to people. What’s more, a few activities budget restrictions, the facilities of the which will increase the social interac- theatre are of low-quality, but it does tions between foreigners and locals definitely not affect the quality of the are proposed - e.g. board games or plays and actors. The entrance fee is traditional dances and singing. 5 GEL and it is generally not needed to book in advance. Rustaveli Ave. #37 These tips for cultural inspiration are rusTavelis gam. 37 not a list of places of entertainment - e.g. it does not contain the most com- Directed by the famous stage director mon gathering places for foreigners R. Sturua, the Rustaveli Theatre shows - but should be taken as an orientation Georgian and foreign plays almost for further personal cultural discove- every evening at 7.00. Plays are usually ries. in the Georgian language but on some specific dates a simultaneous English Plays and Shows. In all main cities in translation is proposed by the British Georgia there is at least one theatre Council. A ticket costs between 3 and proposing regular plays. Below per- 10 GEL, depending on the seat. English forming places in Tbilisi are presented translation is available for additional 5 which are of relevant interest for GEL. Rustaveli Ave. #17 rusTavelis foreigners to learn more about Geor- gam. 17 gian culture and art and which are linguistically accessible. The Tbilisi State Opera and Ballet Theatre, which has been recently

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 067 renovated, is proposing ballets and or construction. The Museum which operas almost every day. Tickets cost occupies 52 hectares of the hill top between 5 and 20 GEL, depending on west to Turtle Lake, called Kus Tba in the seats, and are to be bought during Georgian, was founded in 1966 by the daytime office hours in the ticket office ethnographer Giorgi Chitaia. It can be on the right side of the main entrance. reached on foot from Chavchavadze Ballet performances do not require any Ave., or by cable car available in front linguistic skills but operas are generally of Vake Park, or by taxi. The Open Air presented in the Georgian language wi- Museum of Ethnography entered a thout subtitles or translations. Rustaveli new renovation programme with the Ave. #25 rusTavelis gam. 25 support of UNESCO in March 2008 and will be restructuring during the The Tbilisi State Concert Hall, com- coming months. monly known as philharmonia, is the biggest Music Hall in Tbilisi. It is located At the end of July, the Museum hosts right in the city centre up Rustaveli the Art Gene Festival. In the daytime Avenue. The Tbilisi State Concert Hall Georgian dances, folksongs and tra- is a great place to see traditional ditional fighting performances are on Georgian dancing and concerts. What’s show. Groups from different regions more, every year it hosts a Jazz Festival. and villages are competing. In the The ticket range from 20 to 200 or evening, concerts of famous Georgian more GEL. singers perform while Georgians are gathering, singing, around barbecues, Open Air Museum of Ethnogra- drinking home-made wine in a very phy. The Open Air Museum presents friendly atmosphere. More information a mosaic of traditional architecture about the festival on www.artgeni.ge. and folk arts from all around Georgia. Open Air Museum of Ethnography, on Every region is represented by some the way to Turtle Lake kus tba (Kus instances of their traditional architec- Tba) tures, which have been deconstructed from its original site piece by piece, Tbilisoba, the Celebration of Tbi- then transported and reconstruc- lisi. Every city in Georgia has an annual ted in the park of the Museum. The party which lasts one or two days. Museum features around 70 different Tbilisi’s is called Tbilisoba and takes buildings but unfortunately only a few place at the end of the third week of of them are open to the public. The November. During that Saturday and other houses are under renovation Sunday, it is possible to see some boat

068 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . battles and traditional Georgian dan- a circa 5,000 year old Iranian game. In cing and singing. A concert is organised Georgia, people are playing nardi eve- on Freedom Square. On that occa- rywhere - at home or in streets - and sion all Rustaveli Avenue is closed to everybody seems to know how to play. vehicles and the ambiance downtown Two main variations exist: a so called is really easy-going. “long” and “short” nardi, which differ mainly in the positions of the stones Traditional Georgian Dances and at the beginning of the game. Everyone Singing. When in Georgia, a lot of coming to the Caucasus area will have volunteers are willing to learn about the opportunity to learn how to play the local culture and particularly the this game, and it is great for socialising dancing and singing traditions. Unfortu- and getting to know locals of all ages. nately it is hard to find a place where beginners are accepted, because most Sulphur Baths. After sports or after of the Georgians get their skills when a cold long winter day, relaxing in the they are kids in family gatherings. sulphuric baths downtown is definitely great. Different places are accessible, However, with other interested forei- the same Alexandre Dumas or other gners, it is possible to ask a teacher for writers delved into hundreds of years group dancing lessons or to form an ago. Renting a small room with a bath informal singing group. In some specific for one hour costs between 30 and cases, it is also possible to be present 100 GEL - depending on the place and at the rehearsals of singing groups and size of the room. Having a scrubbing thereby to learn step-by-step the lyrics energetic massage costs about 10 GEL. and melodies. It is as well possible to go to the public room were a bigger bath is available Board Games. Playing chess is part for the cheaper 2 GEL admittance of Georgian socialising. When living in price. Going to the sulphur baths can Georgia, some foreigners might want definitely be seen as a cultural expe- to join the Georgian chess community. rience. Abano Str. abanos q. The World Chess Federation FIDE has a listing of all Chess Clubs existing Grape Harvest rTveli (Rtveli). In around the world on www.fide.com a wine country like Georgia, the grape harvest is of course a cultural event Like chess, Backgammon, called nardi in of particular importance. Rtveli usually Georgian, is very common and popular. takes place in September in the wine The game itself can be traced back to regions, particularly in the Kakheti

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 069 region, and involves the entire family. Young children and grandparents stay at home the whole day to prepare food while the other members of the family and friends are working in the vineyard from dawn to dusk. As a foreigner, it is worth going with Georgian friends to their vineyard and helping to pick up grapes. Seeing the produc- tion process of home made wine is of particular interest. The supra at the end of the day helps to forget the hard working day and offers time to enjoy Georgian wine and traditional songs and poems.

070 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs ...... Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 071

European Volunteer’s Testimony

“I never expected all the changes which took place in the way I perceived the world. I thought the European Voluntary Service would be a great experience but I never expected something like this to happen in my life. I can say I will never be the same as before. Both at the professional and personal levels, I developed a knowledge and an awareness of myself that I had never even dreamed of before.

Georgian culture is extremely exacting and rich. It gives so much that I just feel like giving as much as I can too. My daily experience gave me to feel a life not based on the future like in most of our Western countries, but on the present. The relation Georgians entertain with God and other beliefs caused in me a totally unexpected deep change: I do not believe anymore. And this alone changed all perspectives I had on life in general and on my own in particular.

I recommend going to Georgia to everyone, because life here is rich and intense. I finally experienced the life I always wanted to have: a life of wonderment, a life of pleasurable work and interpersonal relations. I don’t have to wait for tomorrow to be happy anymore: Georgia proved me that I should begin with being happy today...”

Dwelling Towers in Nutsubidze’s District, Tbilisi 073

Day-To-Day Toil

Day-to-Day Toil provides useful information and advice about living in Georgia to assist volunteers in organising and enjoying their daily life. Therefore, it contains a section Practical Tips about things like shopping, communication, leisure and free time activities and using public transportation.

It is relevant to be aware of practical daily issues in any country. Knowing how to find a plumber, which bus to take or simply where to buy a specific product, helps to feel comfortable in a new living environment. Consequently, this chapter shall give volunteers a sense of orientation needed in the reality of Georgia which seems to be chaotic and confusing at the beginning but which possesses a logic of its own.

Electrical Installation in Vera’s District, Tbilisi 075 Practical Tips

Every country is characterised by a sli- approach a Georgian embassy near ghtly different organisation of daily life your home to get more information arrangements. Georgia is no exception about visa application detail. as for that. This chapter therefore provides practical information concerning Foreign Representation in Geor- staying in Georgia in order to make gia. In Southern Caucasus, Tbilisi the newcomer’s daily tasks easier. remains the city where most foreign Embassies and Consulates are situated. You will find below the general For safety reasons, the ministries information every volunteer should of foreign affairs of every country know before going to Georgia: the recommend expatriates to register at immigration policy, insurance coverage, their embassy. Each embassy provides etc. It also contains some explanations advice and recommendations in case of on practical arrangements that can be an emergency and takes care of their helpful for your daily life in Georgia. citizens, for example, if repatriation is needed. The contact data of embas- Immigration Policy. Entering the sies and consulates are listed on the Republic of Georgia by crossing a land website of the Georgian Ministry of border or by landing at an airport is Foreign Affairs at www.mfa.gov.ge easy and safe. European Union citizens can stay without a visa up to 90 days. Personal Safety. Georgia is a safe Since volunteers usually stay longer, it country to live in. In the capital as is possible to ask for a temporary resi- well as in the regions, Georgians are dent permit based on an affidavit from hospitable and ready to help any time. the hosting organisation. This permit Nevertheless incidents can happen and costs about 180 GEL, is quite simple a few recommendations will be given to obtain and will be delivered within here. Intermeddling in a fight between less than a month after application. If Georgians should be avoided. Going to not a European Union citizen, please remote areas or crossing land borders

076 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . alone especially by night should be, . Ambulance and 24/24 Emergency: 033 if possible, avoided. Some female volunteers encountered some minor Insurance. Every European Volunteer incidents in such situations. Moreover is totally covered by AXA Insurance it is always recommended to avoid (European Benefits) for free. It is high-risk situations - mass-protest recommended to check contract detail demonstrations, very old cable-cars, to be aware of what is insured and not wearing seat belts, etc. Volun- what is not. In Georgia, if any medical teers should also remember that any treatment is needed, it is necessary injuries contracted when taking part to indicate the doctor’s name, the in a demonstration are not covered by treatment, the cost and the volunteer’s AXA-Insurance. name on the bill in English or Russian for reimbursement. The bill has then Furthermore, volunteers are often to be sent to AXA Insurance at the interested in the two conflict regions address noted below. To prevent postal of Georgia - Abkhazia and South Os- loss it is advised to have the originals setia. It is here reminded that both are of all documents copied before sending conflict regions, meaning that they are them. In case of an emergency or unsafe for foreigners. Firstly embassies any serious treatment, AXA Insu- have no influence on situations their rance should be contacted as soon citizens might encounter there, and as possible. The insurance company secondly European volunteers are not might appoint one of their doctors to insured when travelling in high-risk check the volunteer’s medical state territories. and organise repatriation if necessary. In case of some expensive planned Emergency Numbers. In case of treatment, AXA Insurance might pre- an emergency, the following phone pay the costs. numbers might be useful. Be aware some explanation about the concer- European Benefits (Plan SVE), 82 Rue ned situation has to be given either in Villeneuve, 92587 Clichy Cedex, France Georgian or in Russian. Volunteers can Phone: +33.1.44.71.50.29 also safely approach any police officer [email protected] in the street if they need help. Police officers are helping foreigners very Energy and Water Supply Infras- efficiently. tructures. The situation in Georgia . Fire Station: 011 concerning water, gas or electricity . Police: 022 has definitely improved a lot over

. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 077 recent years. In villages and small cities, have to be absolutely paid in due time delivery might be irregular. In Tbilisi because without any second notice the there is generally no shortage in gas concerned company will shut down and electricity, while water shor- the supply. Payments have to be made tage depends on the districts. Some in different offices depending on the districts suffer from regular water district of the city in which the home cut-offs during the day or at night but is situated. Addresses are indicated unannounced water cut-offs are very on the bills. What’s more, common rare. Anyway, if there is a water cut-off expenses for corridor lights, the lift or or a power failure people are prepared: common areas cleaning have to be paid some water is always kept in barrels or by residents. The money is collected candles are kept at hand to be set up by the residents themselves using a on tables, etc. rotation system which divides the responsibility for payments among all In offices to avoid any loss of data people living in the same building. due to power failure, each computer is equipped with a back-up system. Phone Calls and the Internet. The This system has a battery and is saving use of cell-phones is quite easy: by enough energy to give the worker a signing a contract and giving a local few minutes to save his work and turn home address, one can acquire a SIM off the computer after the shortage. Card for about 30 GEL. It is possible to get cell-phones which cannot read Volunteers may either live in Tbilisi in a foreign SIM Card due to a SIM Lock a district only occasionally suffering unlocked for a few GEL in practically from cut-offs or in the countryside in all shops selling cell-phone numbers. a family which is used to facing such Some operators may propose you a situations. In both cases it is impro- pre-paid system: Geocell, Magti, Bali, bable volunteers will encounter many etc. They more or less charge the same problems concerning energy and water price. Sending an SMS to a Georgian delivery. or foreign cell-phone costs about the same - between 6 and 12 Tetri - and Payment for such commodities invol- calling is very cheap in comparison ves some interesting characteristics. with prices in Western European Bills arrive in the form of small slips of countries. paper pinned on the home door. With a clear notification of the deadline, Landlines are divided in two categories these water, gas or electricity bills - “Old” numbers which use the former

078 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . phone system and “New” numbers disks. which are installed with the new system. You can freely call landlines from a Shopping. Shopping in Georgia differs working landline for a certain duration quite a lot from what it is in Western of time per month. In any case, you countries. While it is common in Eu- have to pay for a monthly contract in rope to shop in cheap big supermarket order to get your line open and then chains, in Georgia local market places pay your phone bill regularly at the are the best option to get not only Telecommunication Office. There is a fresh and local but well priced pro- Telecommunication Office for each dis- ducts. Any attempt to survive with the trict. To get the address of this office, EVS monthly food allowance by buying the best way is to ask your neighbours. products at the Western style Populi It can take a few months before the or any other supermarket will fail. In landline is turned off for non payment Tbilisi shopping on the big market of the contract and bills. Bazroba near the main railway station is demanding and at least two things An internet connection at home is should be considered: first, the place easily and rapidly installed. The quality is very crowded, so it takes a lot of of the internet connection varies from time to buy everything in one go and day to day and from place to place. An to avoid going there several times a internet company should be able to week; second, to take one’s own scale tell you if the district you are concer- to check if the weight of tomatoes, ned about is part of their coverage. apples or potatoes that was charged is Opening a line should cost between correct is common. Of course, if spe- 80 and 120 GEL and an ADSL Internet cific products like yoghurt, cereals or connection should cost around 80 any specialties from foreign countries GEL a month. However, plenty of are needed, bigger supermarkets like Internet cafés are available in Tbilisi Goodwill or Populi XXL should be itself but also in small cities for a few considered. GEL an hour and some bars provide free Wi-Fi connection. Unfortunately, Getting and Sending Post. All post most computers in Internet cafés are offices feature national and interna- often infected with viruses. Hence, tional services. Some of them also very good regularly upgraded anti-virus provide phone, fax or internet services. protection and anti-spam software Davit Aghmashenebeli #44 Post Office is are needed if any kind of digital data is considered to be number 1 Post Office frequently shared with others via flash and provides the same services as

. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 079 the post office onRustaveli #31. Only of a health problem, it might be best in Aghmashenebeli #44 Post Office it to contact a close Georgian friend or is possible to send parcels to foreign colleague who can help to find an ap- countries. If a notification for a letter propriate place for medical treatment. or parcel is received the volunteer There are multiple hospitals and clinics should go to Aghmashenebeli #44. Post specialised in different fields. Doctors Office in order to ask for it: parcels speak Georgian and Russian, but only are kept there. Post delivery from rarely other languages. Embassies pro- Europe takes about three weeks in vide lists of doctors who speak other both directions, and mails get regularly languages, so volunteers are advised to lost. Asking for parcels can become contact their own embassies to find hellish since the needed notification a doctor speaking their language or does not always arrive at the proper English. Bringing basic medications for address and post offices are often headaches or for digestive problems, crowded. The help of a Georgian friend or the necessary medicines you need who knows the system can accelerate on a regular basis, is anyway recom- the process significantly. If a volunteer mended. is expecting a specific package, which seems to be late he or she can directly Technical Specialists. To get a plum- go to the post office and ask if they ber, a locksmith, a heating engineer have received anything. The parcel or any other technical specialists, might have arrived and nobody was volunteers should contact the hosting informed or notified about it. Also organisation or a good Georgian private postal companies like TNT or friend. The hosting organisation is res- DHL may encounter difficulties in their ponsible for your lodging and therefore delivery services. they should be informed first. Getting a professional technician alone can Medical Care. Before going to be complicated due to the fact that Georgia, vaccinations against polio, technicians are not listed anywhere tetanus, diphtheria, hepatitis A and B – such workers are mainly to be found are recommended while vaccination at Eliava market where they are waiting against rabies is only advised for those for work proposals. working with animals or staying in remote areas for long periods. Laundry. It may sound strange to a newcomer, but finding a solution for Georgian medical system may look washing clothes is not as easy as it is complicated to foreigners. In the case in Western Europe. In Georgia a mino-

080 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . rity of households possess a washing machine at their home. Therefore volunteers might have to find other solutions for washing clothes. The most common way to do one’s washing in Southern Caucasus is by hand. Some laundries where service is commonly paid per kilo or per item can be found in Tbilisi but they may be too expensive for volunteers.

Trash and Recycling. In Georgia, no trash sorting exists yet. In remote areas, compost is commonly used for recycling vegetable rejects but in cities even recycling glass is not common. It is frequent to see people throwing trash on the street, while more and more trash bins can be found particularly in cities. In remote areas, no pro- cessing of trash exists, so it is common to see open-air unofficial dumps in the countryside.

Public Bathrooms. Public bathrooms are rare and badly taken care of. The facilities themselves as well as the cleaning schedules differ a lot as compared to European standards. Most public toilets are squat toilets, commonly called “alla turca”. These allow basic hygiene, which is not the case for sitting toilets. Especially on marshrutka or train trips, it is always advisable to “plan” your visit to a bathroom.

. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 081 Leisure and Free Time

Besides the previous practical tips A few websites are also webcasting up- volunteers are also interested in to-date information about Georgia: information about possible free time . Georgia Today www.georgiatoday.ge activities. You will find recommenda- . UNA-Georgia Online Magazine www. tions to obtain news or literature in civil.ge foreign languages and to find sport . The Georgian Times www.geotimes.ge activities below. . Information concerning Tbilisi www. info-tbilisi.com Worldwide News. The Internet is an . Web Portal on Human Rights in infinite source of information concer- Georgia www.humanrights.ge ning global politics, the world’s eco- . The Messenger Online www.messenger. nomy and international cultural events. com.ge By checking national newspapers’ websites volunteers can stay informed Georgia also has several television about what is going on in their home channels in Georgian language. With a countries and around the world. satellite dish it is possible to receive channels in Russian, Polish, English, In Tbilisi on 102.9 FM at different times French, etc., and common cable TV fea- Radio France International and Deuts- tures the BBC and the CNN in English che Welle broadcast news, debates and besides plenty of Russian channels. music in their respective languages. International Bookstores. A few Some weekly English publications places provide books in English in which give political news as well as Tbilisi. artistic information about Georgia exist: Georgia Today, The Messenger, Prospero’s Books is a combined café- etc. They are available at newsstands cum-bookstore which offers a great or in shops and bars where foreigners choice of English books and movies commonly go. to buy and rent. Situated in a hidden

082 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . courtyard off Rustaveli Avenue, it is a . British Council (www.britishcouncil. very nice place to grab a coffee and a org/ge.htm) Rustaveli Ave. #34, rusTa- piece of cake and to enjoy some good velis gam. 34 reading. Rustaveli Ave. #34 rusTave- . Centre Culturel Français Alexandre lis gam. 34 Dumas (www.ccf.tbilissi.caucasus.net) Gudiashvili Str. #7 and #10 gudiaSvi- Literaturi is a friendly place for a coffee lis q. 7 da 10 or a brunch combined with an En- . Goethe Institut (www.goethe.de/ins/ge/ glish-Russian-Georgian library, mostly tif) Zandukeli Str. #16 zandukelis specialised in literature and poetry. q. 16 Mainly classics can be found here. It is situated near Tbilisi State Concert Cinemas. Cinemas in Tbilisi and in Hall at the beginning of Tamanishvili Str., small cities mainly propose movies in TamaniSvilis q. Russian and sometimes in English with Georgian subtitles. The New Art Cafe, a restaurant set up by the Non-Governmental Orga- In Tbilisi, the only cinema that regularly nisation New Art Union, features a shows - every Wednesday and Friday at bookstore, mainly oriented on arts and 8.00 p.m. – English movies is the Kolga literature, and also exhibits drawings, Cinema House. The programme can photographs and paintings. Orbeliani Str. be found on http://kolga.geoweb.ge . #31, orbelianis q. 31 This cinema has a very nice ambiance and it is even possible to suggest some Cultural Centres. Different cultural movies. The entrance fee is 5 GEL. centres are located in Tbilisi. They all Kakabadze Str. #2 kakabaZis q. 2 provide well developed libraries with weekly and monthly newspapers and Sports. A lot of possibilities exist as magazines, books on diverse topics, for sport in the country, especially DVDs or VHS tapes of films. Cultural outdoor activities. centres are generally proposing all level language courses and they organise Speed walking, walking, running can be cultural events like lectures, conferen- practised everywhere in the countrysi- ces, festivals, concerts, or exhibitions de or cities. For specific hiking related to their respective countries. excursions, it is important to rely on Registration is easy but the fees differ professional guides. If hosted in Tbilisi, a from one centre to another. The three volunteer can take part in the biweekly main cultural centres are stated below. excursions with the club called “Tbilisi

. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 083 Hash House Harriers”. The group goes Georgians are highly motivated when to the countryside and follows specific supporting their teams and being in the itineraries with group rituals along the public is very entertaining. Further- way which bring easygoing and friendly more, you can play soccer with a group mirth. More information on http://tbili- of friends almost everywhere - small sih3.com football fields are common and can be used free of charge. During the winter, For winter sports Georgia is well renting a covered football field costs equipped. The two main ski resorts about 40 GEL an hour. At Turtle Lake are Bakuriani and Gudauri. Bakuriani renting a small open-air football field is more family-oriented than Gudauri. costs 45 GEL for 90 min, near the However both resorts have good Dinamo Stadium 30 GEL for 90 min. skiing infrastructures, developed lodging facilities and equipment renting Tbilisi also counts several swimming shops. Going to Bakuriani or Gudauri pools, but the only one within a vo- by marshrutka lasts at least two hours. lunteer’s budget is Laguna Vere laguna The budget per day should be at least vere. It was renovated and reopened 70 GEL for accommodation, ski rentals, recently with new opening hours. The cable cars and food. Furthermore, du- single entrance fee is between 8 and ring the winter a skating rink is set up 10 GEL according to the client’s status. in Tbilisi next to the Sports Hall. The A 12 month membership costs 90 GEL. fee including the renting of ice-skates Laguna Vere is situated on Kostava str. for one hour is 10 GEL per person. #34, kostavas q. 34. The entrance is The skating rink is situated on 26th May at the back of the building. Square, 26 maisis moedani

Two Football stadiums exist in Tbilisi. The national stadium on Chavchavadze Ave. #2, WavWavaZis q. 2, hosts games between national teams, or friendly matches between international teams. The clearly more impressive stadium, called Dinamo Stadium, is located next to the Central Railway Station and is mainly used for international venues. It is worth going at least once to appreciate the ambiance, because

084 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . Travelling

Transportation in Georgia, inside they do not trust the driver. On the Tbilisi or outside, seems to be at first other hand, outside cities, the use of glance unorganised and chaotic. In fact, seatbelts is obligatory. a variety of means of transportation exist and after a while one can see the Stations. In general, every Georgian system is working quite well. There city possesses a main bus station. Main may be no official schedule, but it is cities possess as well a train station. In regular. Tbilisi, different stations are appointed for different destinations and different The most important aspect to means of transportation. When prepa- consider when travelling on Georgian ring a trip outside the capital, checking roads is the driving style. Car and beforehand from where the transpor- even mini-bus drivers display a specific tation is leaving is always a gain of time, driving attitude that commonly leads or at least no waste of it. to overtaking in dangerous places like . Railway Station vagzlis moedani in bends, driving on the wrong side of (Vagzlis Moedani). Day and night trains the road, slaloming between cars and can be found going to main cities in most of all using their horns at every Georgia, to Armenia and Azerbaijan single junction. Volunteers, used to the and mini-buses to main cities in Geor- calm European driving style, are usually gia. There are also day trains and buses surprised, if not shocked or scared, but available going to the Airport. This they get used to it quite rapidly. station is interconnected to the Metro. . Didube didube: Mini-buses and bu- Another important remark concerns ses to almost all main cities in Georgia safety. When driving in cities, a majority are leaving from this station which is of people do not use seatbelts, and a interconnected to Tbilisi’s Metro. taxi driver might stare at those passen- . Isani isani: Mini-buses and buses gers that want to use the seatbelts and leave from this station mainly to the who by doing this dare to imply that Eastern part of Georgia and to Azer-

. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 085 baijan. This station is interconnected to compartment Tbilisi’s Metro. Generally, trains are a very safe means . Ortachala orTaWala: Mini-buses of transportation and the police is and buses to Armenia, Azerbaijan and usually present in trains travelling in Turkey are leaving from this station. Georgia. However, if you are travelling with friends it is recommended to Inter-City Mini-Buses and Buses. take a Kupé compartment together for Mini-buses (commonly called marshru- your own comfort, while when you are tka from its Russian name) and buses travelling alone Platskartny seems to be are linking almost all cities in Georgia. the best solution in order to avoid any Drivers are waiting for passengers trouble. at the station and commonly leave when the vehicle is full - buses usually Flying to and from Georgia. The feature time schedules. You can cross main airport is situated at a 30 minute the country for up to 20 GEL. A trip car-ride distance from Tbilisi down- between Batumi and Tbilisi costs 18 town centre. A few travel companies GEL and between Tbilisi and Bakuriani propose flights mainly to European and 10 GEL. The prices are less expensive Middle-East countries. It is possible when travelling by bus, e.g. Mtskheta to reach it by taxi for a minimum of -Tbilisi by bus costs 70 Tetri, while it 15 GEL or in the daytime by train or is around 1 GEL by marshrutka. The bus from the Railway Station. From driver is going from station to station the airport to the city a taxi costs 25 but commonly passengers stop the GEL. Smaller airports are situated in marshrutka or bus at any place. Batumi and Kutaisi. Flights to Turkey or Ukraine are scheduled there. Trains. Trains are crossing the whole country from the Azerbaijani border to Tbilisi Metro. In Tbilisi itself, two Batumi and from the Armenian border underground lines are meeting at the to Zugdidi. All lines go through Tbilisi. Central Railway Station. One trip costs A trip from Tbilisi to Batumi by night 40 Tetri (price in 2008). The stations lasts between 8 to 10 hours and costs and directions are mostly indicated in around 18 GEL, depending on the tra- the Georgian alphabet, but in some velling class. There are three classes: stations the Latin alphabet is used too. . Platskartny (3rd class): collective sleeper The Metro is crossing the city fast and with 54 beds per coach is currently being renovated. . Kupé (2nd class): 4-berth compartment . Spalny Vagon (SV, 1st class): 2-berth Tbilisi Buses. In Tbilisi, buses are

086 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . quite slow and crowded but useful to read very fast where the vehicle goes. go to specific places. The process is as Therefore, it is recommended to ask follows: the passenger enters the bus Georgians for the right line in order through the backdoor and pays the not to get lost. To take a marshrutka driver when leaving through the front along the road people just stop it with door. The government has been trying a hand sign. A short but loudly spoken to organise a ticket system since July “gaacheret!” will make the driver stop 2007, but unfortunately it is not wor- and the passengers can pay and go out. king very well. Nevertheless, a ticket A ride costs generally 50 Tetri, but it seller may approach each passenger may cost 20 or 40 Tetri, depending on to sell tickets at the beginning of the whether it is a district or city-crossing ride. A ride costs 40 Tetri. No official marshrutka. map or time schedule exist so far even when the government did a survey in Taxi. In every city in Georgia it is pos- 2007 in order to set up schedules for sible to catch a taxi for a few Lari. Taxis 2008, but so far the implementation are very useful to get to unknown of itinerary timetables is postponed districts, but also at night or in areas to an unknown date. The only way to where no buses are available. It might find out which bus to take is either to be useful to make sure that the taxi read the sign on the bus windscreen in driver knows the destination because Georgian or to ask someone. it happens sometimes that drivers do not know the place at all and just Tbilisi Mini-Buses. Mini-buses, also drop off passengers anywhere. The called mashrutka, are used as public increasing price of petrol also brings transportation across the capital. Even up the prices of taxi rides. For a ride in though the government tried to limit Tbilisi between different districts, the the marshrutka routes by reorganising price may be up to no more than 8 or all lines and prohibiting the access to 10 GEL (price in 2008). Downtown, a specific main streets like Rustaveli Ave- 4 GEL prices is quite normal. It is com- nue, the marshrutka system is still well mon to negotiate the price of a taxi developed and very useful. To go from ride beforehand not to be surprised one specific point to another, it may about the amount afterwards. Taxis are be the fastest option. The directions also a good option for going to remote are written in Georgian on a sign in areas which are not connected to a the windscreen of the mini-bus. This public transportation network like the makes it quite complicated for non- David Gareji monastery, or the Uplist- Georgian speakers as it is required to sikhe cave town, etc.

. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 087

European Volunteer’s Testimony

“In a short period of time, my EVS in Georgia changed my life in a lot of ways. Initially, I just wanted to leave my country for a while - I have been here now for already two years. I never expected this to happen and I never planned it so, but my European Voluntary Service here was so full of new impressions, new discoveries and wonderments, that I just decided to stay.

It is hard for me to point out the most important things that made me stay. It may be the kindness of the people, the easy-going way of life - just let things be what they are for a while and enjoy the instant - but it may be too the opportunity to really change things in my own environment and to see Georgia developing everywhere.

I do not want to say that everything is perfect here. In Georgia a lot of things still drive me mad and sometimes it goes too far and I want to leave right away and forget all the disappointments I have experienced here. But if you look for an intense time in your life, if you want to test your own opinions and if you are ready to challenge yourself daily with a totally different approach to life, interpersonal relations and work, then I can only recommend you to discover Georgia and its people.”

Shepherd near Jvari Pass 089

Cultural Struggle

Cultural Struggle provides basics about Intercultural Learning. During his stay in a foreign country, a volunteer goes through different emotional states of mind which are here described. Georgian culture is highlighted - cultural particularities are indicated to minimize misunderstandings and problems by raising the awareness of volunteers.

In order to support the volunteers’ cultural adaptation, this chapter contains a Cultural Guide for first orientation in the new environment.

Women Selling Fruit near Marneuli 091 In a Foreign Country

During the EVS, volunteers will have Most newcomers are in a state of to adapt to the local environment great enthusiasm during the first days and culture. Generally volunteers are and weeks of their volunteering period. going through different emotional and Newcomers feel surprised and totally intellectual awareness stages that are amazed. Every single cultural particula- the same for all volunteers. Volunteers rity seems exceptional. Foreigners feel may experience the stages described curious and great and have the impres- below with varying intensity and at sion they could stay there forever. In slightly different times in their stay. some cases, newcomers even begin to Some of these stages may also remain behave differently from what they used beyond the experience of one parti- to - e.g. accept events they would not cular volunteer. However, being aware have liked. People and colleagues are in of the adaptation process may help to general very friendly during these first overcome temporary difficulties. moments, and volunteers feel comfortable in the new environment. First Reactions. In this stage volunteers are unaware of cultural Totally opposite to this state of differences which they do not perceive amazement, volunteers may panic as such and find it difficult to estimate completely on arriving. They have the the necessary adaptation to the new impression that everything and eve- culture. The volunteers’ first feeling ryone is dangerous, and are not able to can be different but generally there overcome that feeling to meet others are two options: amazement or fear. or to accomplish daily actions on their Both emotions are much more intense own - e.g. going shopping, taking a during the first days and slightly lose bus, etc. That reaction - like in some intensity as weeks pass. During that ways amazement about everything - is period, volunteers generally do not out of proportion as there generally understand a lot of things happening is no more threat or danger than at around them. home. This first shock might be hardly

092 . . . Cultural Struggle . . . understood by others, especially locals, communication are still problematic and can even create a gap between the and exacting. Volunteers cannot behave community and the newcomer, who the same way they would at home then only wishes to leave. without causing troubles but anyway refuse to adopt some of the local’s be- This stage is often emotionally very haviour. On one hand, volunteers know intense. The newcomer is sensitive and cultural flexibility is required in order he feels deep emotions for everyone to overcome the current difficulties in and everything. His reactions and be- their adaptation. But on the other hand haviour are often driven by emotions they might recognise that they are not and do not involve much rationality. able or not willing to behave the way Because of this emotional vulnerability, locals do - that counts particularly for it is common to observe newcomers sensitive elements like privacy, gender falling in love. roles, daily rhythms, etc.

Recognition. After spending some Adjustment. After these first mo- time in the host country - usually in ments, volunteers slowly adapt to the the 3rd or 4th months - volunteers sud- local culture by understanding better denly recognise not only that there ac- some specific cultural particularities. tually are cultural differences, but that They develop their capacities to react some of them are not easily acceptable or behave accordingly. This adjustment for them. Small elements and facts happens partly unconsciously, meaning might, at this stage, bother volunteers that volunteers do not necessary un- easily. Volunteers may feel homesick derstand how they get used to certain and is still in a period of vulnerability. cultural characteristics. At this stage, He is highly aware at that moment of several cultural aspects are already most cultural differences. perceived as normal and volunteers react in a culturally proper way and be- At that same moment volunteers, if have without difficulties and naturally. they had not recognised it before, un- Volunteers feel more comfortable and derstand that the volunteering period independent in daily issues and they es- is indeed no long holiday. Volunteers tablish some habitual routines in their might feel frustrated, because still lives in the hosting country. every single action or interaction with locals requires a lot of efforts and they The deeper volunteers get to know might feel dependent because orienta- the culture of the hosting country, tion within the hosting community and the deeper their understanding of

. . . Cultural Struggle . . . 093 it is. Further cultural shocks might plans after the EVS. It is hard for volun- happen when specific issues volunteers and the people around them to teers had not expected or foreseen recognise these inner-changes, because arise. Around the 9th or 10th months, it is a slow process with incrementally foreigners may re-discover aspects of changing ideas, visions and perceptions the local community with which they of things. had had difficulties because they went against their own values and principles. When going back home, volunteers Though before they were ignoring themselves as well as their relatives these elements in order to avoid and friends might be surprised to conflictual situations or they were discover how much they have indeed simply not aware of them, it becomes changed and how much the people impossible for them now to go on with who had stayed behind had changed this strategy. These new clashes lead too. Then reintegration begins, which to a clear distinction between their might be harder than expected. own cultures or values and the hosting country’s.

On-Going Changes. All along their volunteering placement volunteers learn new skills and new knowledge. An EVS, in which it is “up-to volunteers” to be active and creative, is an intense time in their lives creating on-going changes at the personal level. Volunteers might become more confident, stronger as for their own vital choices, and changes may even be visible in the physical appearance - e.g. losing or gaining weight, new haircuts, etc.

These on-going changes should not be underestimated because this might be one of the reasons why volunteers seem to be or are confused from time to time about volunteering and future

094 . . . Cultural Struggle . . . Cultural Particularities

Cultural Particularities describes various Georgian life style. facets of Georgian culture in four suc- cessive sections each of which focuses This chapter should never be conside- on one particular aspect – the concept red as complete, because a culture is of time and the avoidance of uncer- constantly evolving. Hence, the reader tainty, collectivism vs. individualism, should always keep in mind that the communication and finally masculinity information below is subjective and vs. femininity. This frame has been ins- that to describe a culture is deeply pired by the work of Geert Hofstede connected to the personal experien- on cultures. He classified cultures ces someone goes through. Every using five dimensions - power distance, volunteer has a different experience of uncertainty avoidance, collectivism vs. Georgian culture. Therefore, you are individualism, masculinity vs. femininity invited to develop your own views and and time orientation - which according interpretations. to his research, can distinguish cultures from one another. Concept of Time and Uncertainty Avoidance. This part refers to how Particular Georgian cultural charac- people in a given culture perceive time teristics are described below which and how they plan and organise their are in a European perspective, those daily life. It describes how Georgians creating confusion, difficulties and/or manage their daily duties and how they conflicts. The intention is not to give cope with time restrictions. a full portrait of Georgian culture or to go into a deep analysis of it as Georgians have an improvised way to professionals of social sciences do. This organise their daily tasks. Because cho- chapter describes cultural elements as res and work can take more time than if they were a mosaic from which the expected or planned - e.g. energy or reader could pick valuable information water cut-offs, irregular time-lengthe- making it easier to understand the ned travelling, impossibility to find

. . . Cultural Struggle . . . 095 needed materials - Georgians have the Therefore a particular chore can ability to find solutions with diverse take various durations in function of approaches or to juggle from a task to interruptions and other events during another when necessary. Plans - if they the execution. In the same way, it is can be called so in a Western perspec- common in Georgia for people to tive - change several times during one arrive later than set or to work on day depending on the environment and diverse projects at the same time. In its influence. Georgians do feel com- case of deadlines, workers rarely plan fortable in not knowing what comes their work and usually do not have a next after an activity or in changing strategy to reach a goal step-by-step. plans at the last minute. They are used Everything is done at the last minute in to do that and can hardly consider a “now or never – approach”. focusing on one given task for a well- defined duration, the way Westerners Hence, Georgians have a low level of commonly do. uncertainty avoidance. They are used to adapting to new and challenging Hence, time is perceived by Georgians situations and do not need to know as polychronic. It means that days are how things will be organised in details. organised depending on known and Not knowing in advance how to reach unknown tasks and activities which a given location or when a needed have to be accomplished, allowing document will arrive does not worry interruptions and changes from one them. task to another. Westerners, on the opposite, organise their days in function Collectivism vs. Individualism. of the available time and they prioritise This part describes how people relate the tasks that have to be done one by with one another. In an individualistic one in order of importance. Georgians society, people set themselves as their can deal with several objectives at first priority - that is the case in most the same time while in monochronic Western cultures. On the contrary, a perception people focus on one defi- collectivistic society emphasizes the ned goal before dealing with the next community and the group first. Every one. In polychronic perception time is single person undertakes their tasks to perceived as unlimited. Georgians use satisfy and take care of every member the time they need for a given task in the group. That determines social while monochronic thinking people set interactions and is the fundament of themselves strict deadlines for specific privacy, inter-personal distance or life tasks. priorities. Every culture is not totally

096 . . . Cultural Struggle . . . collectivistic or individualistic, but it child even when a financially indepen- tends to lean more to one side than dent adult, will rarely decide to settle the other. on his own and leave the parents’ home, especially when living in the Georgians identify themselves in func- same town. tion of the groups they belong to, and those are varied and diverse - religious Family has always been the first prio- groups, ethnical groups, the regions and rity - e.g. in most cases, the birthday of villages of origin, professions, families a relative will be more important than and family situations, etc. In Georgian even a professional deadline. Personal society the group is considered as choices are deeply influenced by the the first priority. That notion nowa- family or even performed under family days undergoes a deep change with consent - e.g. the marriage of a daugh- the transition to a capitalist society. ter or the studies of children. Deci- However the importance of belonging sions are taken and money is spent to a certain group remains so far highly for the benefit of the family. Family important and that is visible through members are interdependent and feel intersocial rivalries, within the Cauca- comfortable like that. sus and within Georgia itself. Furthermore, Georgians do not sepa- Family and friends play a major role in rate private life from professional life. the lives of Georgians. Ties between Colleagues are often friends or at least family members and friends are strong behave like that - e.g. colleagues quite and close. Family members usually all commonly ask private questions from live together in the same house, even one another. Therefore the working often in the same room. It is not com- ambiance is generally friendly except in mon to have a private room, and as a cases of interpersonal conflicts which fact to be alone in general - even when definitely ruin the atmosphere. There away from home or separated from again the group is more important than one another, family members always individual members - e.g. the professio- know where the others are and what nal mistake of a given worker is kept they are up to. Several generations unmentioned; the whole group bears live together and everyone has their the responsibility. This feature has dee- own roles and tasks in their communal ply been changing since the collapse of life. Pensioners’ homes do not exist the Soviet Union and it becomes more in Georgia, because the whole family common to get jobs with strictly-defi- takes care of their elderly members. A ned responsibilities.

. . . Cultural Struggle . . . 097 Communication. Georgian society express dissatisfaction or contradic- is considered as a high context society: tory opinions on topics like politics it is a homogeneous and collectivistic in a slightly easier way. Pride is an culture in which people understand important aspect to take into account and know already how others will to understand the behaviour of many react and behave. Therefore people de- Georgians. velop less direct communication, which involves less explicit statements. Things In general Georgians are emotional do not have to be openly expressed to people, and they express their feelings be understood by everyone. easily, sometimes even using exagge- ration to emphasize how deep their In such a culture, people support feelings are. Hence, daily situations one another by sharing resources are experienced in an emotionally and time whenever necessary. To use very intense way - e.g. debating or social connections to manage specific discussing involve emotions and might tasks is normal - e.g. by knowing the indeed sound like arguing though they right person a given objective can be definitely are not. Discussions may lack reached in a few days though it nor- some rational argumentation, espe- mally would have taken a few months. cially if they concern sensitive issues. Georgian society is not an informative Likewise, ambivalent understanding is and transparent society - e.g. a society rare - a given event is either great or where a location or a direction can be terrible. found thanks to a map - but a society where information is known by others. Finally non-verbal communication is Therefore interpersonal relations play commonly used by Georgians. Facial a highly important role - e.g. to get language is uncommon with strangers information, asking your neighbour is and smiling in public to others is defini- more efficient than looking for it in a tely inappropriate. However people are guidebook. physically very close to one another, which can easily be observed by Moreover, even very close friends and looking at a queue where people are relatives rarely criticize one another standing so close to one another that personally, especially in front of others. they may touch one another’s bodies, Honesty and straightforwardness have even if enough space is available. It is to be highly diplomatic and careful, normal to welcome even colleagues by especially if it concerns a personal kissing them on their cheeks or to take stake of a given person, while you can someone else’s hand to show them

098 . . . Cultural Struggle . . . the way. Eye contacts are common and social restrictions. Kissing in public is shameless - e.g. in public transporta- not very well considered. In the same tion, people do look at other people way, sexual relations out of wedlock, without feeling awkward, and it is not especially for women, are not recom- perceived as an intrusion into their pri- mended, because virginity is important, vacy as it might be the case in Western if not for the woman herself, then cultures. for the future husband or his family. The only objective of dating is to get Masculinity vs. Femininity. This married and therefore it is taken very section concerns relations between seriously by both partners and their men and women, and by extension, families. their roles and functions within the household and society. Note again Because getting married and particular- that gender relations in Georgia are ly finding a good spouse are important, nowadays evolving very much and that people commonly propose to arrange they are different in the capital, in small meetings among relatives, friends and cities and in villages. people from good families – match making is frequent especially outside Gender roles are quite set in Geor- the capital. gia. A man is mostly responsible for bringing a livelihood to his household while the woman should take care of the family and home. Interactions between genders are somehow restricted as compared to Western cultures - e.g. during a meal it is usual to see women sitting on one side of the table, men on the other. Going out alone with someone of the opposite gender is generally considered as a sign of showing more than friendship. Dating is common in Georgia - the man usually invites the woman for dinner, to the theatre or to have a walk – but it can last a long time before any intimate contact. A dating young couple is hardly to be seen alone because of

. . . Cultural Struggle . . . 099 Cultural Guide

Cultural Guide features advice that a fo- remember that it is not worse, it is not reigner should take into consideration better, it is just different. To respect and when going to foreign countries for a not to judge is the toughest part of specific activity like volunteering. This Intercultural Learning and should never advice is general and specific - some be underestimated. is valid for any destination while some more corresponds to Cultural Particu- Responsibility. Foreigners also carry larities section. They are supposed to with them a particular responsibility help volunteers integrate. - e.g. the image of their own countries and peoples. Especially in a country like Cultural Guide focuses particularly on Georgia which had only few contacts the cultural challenge. Recommenda- with Europeans over recent years, a tions concerning the placement, the disrespectful behaviour has a significant hosting organisation and the work of impact on locals. A voluntary project volunteers can be found in the chapter aims at breaking stereotypes and one Volunteers’ Gambles. of the most common failures in such a perspective is when the presence of Respect. First of all, a volunteer has to a volunteer and essentially his or her display a respectful behaviour towards behaviour create stereotypes. Volun- the new culture he is delving into. teering is no holiday and volunteers Respect is present at different levels should as much as possible remain - e.g. to respect different rhythms and aware of the impact they have on the methods, to respect people from diffe- environment and especially on the rent backgrounds, with different skills local community. and opinions. Respect is also to accept that locals might know the environ- Observation. Due to the first period ment better and to listen to them. It of wonderment, volunteers usually is the fundament of continued quality miss cultural aspects which are of high cooperation. Volunteers should always importance to integrate in the local

100 . . . Cultural Struggle . . . community. It is therefore recommen- Flexibility and Patience. When ded to take some time to observe getting ready to leave for another all along the volunteering period, country, volunteers should definitely but especially at the beginning - e.g. be aware that things will be different some initial choices or behaviour can from the way they are at home. This influence the stability of the project. is an obvious statement that unfortu- Even if the environment seems to be nately people about to go to foreign greatly similar, it does not mean that countries sometimes forget. Expecting it is. Foreigners often underestimate Western comfort or living standards cultural differences because Georgia in Georgia is unrealistic. By going to looks quite Western at first glance. foreign countries, foreigners expose Consequently, misunderstandings could themselves to other ways of living be easily avoided by the simple fact and working, but also other ways of of observing how things go and how thinking and behaving - e.g. different people behave. Asking for advice before concept of privacy or different gender taking action is also a good way to get roles. And indeed they have to be keen familiar with Georgian culture. to adapt to the new cultural environment sometimes at the most unexpec- Social Interaction. It is common to ted moments - e.g. problems in energy observe foreigners staying only with and water supply, working meetings other foreigners mostly of the same that are cancelled at the last minute or nationality as them when in a foreign non scheduled public transportation. country. They came to this foreign By being flexible and patient, such country to discover a specific culture events will go by unnoticed; otherwise but by staying always surrounded it will just ruin one’s mood. by people from the same country or world area, nobody really grasps Diplomacy. Being diplomatic is of Georgian cultural challenges. Therefore great importance because of the developing social connections with collectivistic character of Georgian so- different groups is of great importance. ciety. Stating your own straight forward It allows discovering the country from opinions, especially if they concern a different perspective and delving dee- someone else, may certainly not be per into its culture. Sports and cultural appreciated. Using indirect commu- activities as well as interactions with nication is advisable - e.g. to imply or their neighbours help volunteers to suggest what is thought, to temper create private networks, outside the the truth, etc. Particularly at the work working environment. place, where colleagues are close to

. . . Cultural Struggle . . . 101 one another, to keep a good working consider that if they accept to drink ambiance and fruitful cooperation, fo- the first toast, they will have to drink reigners should develop their skills to the following ones. Likewise, to give feel when an issue and a given situation something in exchange of what is pre- are too sensitive to be discussed or sented by Georgians when being their should be totally overlooked in silence. guests at their homes is very important. Giving very expensive presents Self Respect. In Georgia, a woman might be problematic knowing that is expected to behave in specific ways Georgians are always returning the - e.g. going out late, meeting with male favour. To leave some culinary delica- friends are inappropriate. Foreign tessen or small souvenirs from own women, due to stereotypes, might so- countries behind is best. This gesture metimes face situations which are very will be highly appreciated and valued unpleasant like physical or psychologi- by Georgians. cal harassment. Foreign women should be aware, when coming to Georgia Homesickness and Emergencies. that they have to be clearly explicit By going to Georgia to live and work on their intentions and wishes. To let there, volunteers might feel at a total things happen without reacting, to loss and homesick. To feel low some- think it might change all by itself is not times or get mad at cultural details a solution - every time a disrespectful and to wish to go home right away are gesture or comment is done, forei- normal reactions. This feeling should gners should clearly stand for their not be overestimated: it might only be rights and respect. one bad day. Volunteers should then remember why they are here, what they Back and Forth. Because of the high really want, and to look at the situation importance for Georgians of making from another point of view or from a guests comfortable, it is sometimes greater distance can help to discover hard to refuse what is offered by them. that after all it is not so bad. Never- To use a gentle tone, to heartily thank theless feeling homesick should not be for the proposition and to explain underestimated especially if it spreads gratefulness for such hospitality might out over days and weeks: to try to get help foreigners to eventually refuse a more social interactions with people proposition. To refuse wine in some around and to develop activities with festive celebration might be misunders- them helps you to feel safe. In the tood but will be accepted if clearly and same way, to meet other volunteers explicitly expressed - foreigners must who might face similar difficulties is

102 . . . Cultural Struggle . . . often a good way to relax and ease Finally, to plan or at least to think frustrations and negative feelings. about the period after the EVS placement might be useful to move back to However in the case of critical inci- home reality. Even if it is definitely hard dents or emergency situations, it is to foresee or plan anything while being recommended to take some time to in a foreign country, keeping an eye on cool off before calling home to inform reality at home may help the re-inte- relatives. After a few hours or days the gration of volunteers. situation could be different. It is useless to create worries at the other end of Europe while in fact the situation is already getting better here.

Self-Reflection. A volunteering placement is going very fast and volunteers often feel they are not able to organise their time. To take a rest once in a while for a day or two and to reflect on what has personally and professionally happened is recommended to all volunteers. In the same way to meet other volunteers to talk about the volunteering experience is recommended in order to get different perspectives and views on the EVS project, as well as on your personal development. Especially because being in a foreign country is highly intense emotionally, volunteers often suffer from a lack of reflection and rationality when taking important decisions and undertaking actions. To let oneself be driven only by feelings without stepping back to look at reality from a greater distance might trap foreigners in Georgia into delicate situations.

. . . Cultural Struggle . . . 103

European Volunteer’s Testimony

“Since I was planning to live ten months in Georgia, everybody thought I was crazy, including myself. However, the idea of living in a country whose customs, culture and language you do not know felt more like a positive challenge. And that’s what it was.

On and after arriving, everything looked and was strange. Everybody was staring at me, the only blond colourfully dressed female in Georgia – at least that was my impression. But now I recognise that I am not the only blond and that people do wear other colours than black. Surprisingly, I have to admit that I am now staring at people while I do not feel observed anymore. Georgia has made me less stressed as for my agenda: It feels as if I had never heard of an agenda. Was I normally the person freaking out if someone was late, and now am I the one arriving a bit late (note the ‘bit’: I will of course remain punctual...).

Living in a foreign country made my vision change ten times faster than it would have at home, it really enriched me and I can recommend Georgia to everybody without the slightest hesitation!”

Uplistsikhe Cave Town near Gori 105

Volunteers’ Gambles

Volunteers’ Gambles gives an insight into the challenges volunteers have to face in working for a hosting organisation and points out at obstacles and solutions for fruitful cooperation and successful integration into the new working environment. Some sections give general advice to volunteers, emphasize the importance of as well as the way to prepare a voluntary placement and exemplifies common mistakes in EVS projects. Furthermore, this chapter describes the specific challenges of volunteering in Georgia and the consequential benefits for volunteers and suggests some personal initiatives or activities.

Volunteers’ Gambles describes the most difficult part of the voluntary placement. In the working environment, all daily and cultural obstacles are adding themselves to the difficult integration into the working sphere, thus creating a complex situation. This chapter aims at underlining the obstacles met by an EVS project but it should also awaken the curiosity and eagerness of potential volunteers and their desire to accept this EVS challenge, not in a European country, but in Georgia.

Former Soviet Government Building, Tbilisi 107 Mind These

Future or current participants of the a new life and to dedicate time and European Voluntary Service should be energy to others. Motivations coming aware of different elements. Next to from the emotional or personal the general structure and support that instabilities that prompts the only an EVS project provides, a volunteer wish to leave home might hamper the should bear in mind his status and his ability to keep motivated in the face posture. of difficulties and lead to problematic EVS projects. Moreover, motivation is Volunteers often have a misleading un- twofold - personal and professional derstanding about a voluntary project, – and it enables volunteers to integrate especially concerning their own duties and develop fully all along the entire and rights and those of the hosting project. organisation, which as a consequence creates misunderstandings and even Since going to another country for a unsolvable troubles. Therefore, Mind European Voluntary Service is not as These should be used as a reminder of easy as it might look at first glance, the posture volunteers should have in volunteers should be prepared to mind and follow in order to enjoy a delve into a totally new environment in successful EVS project. which their former habits and mental orientation points will not exist any- Motivation. First, volunteers should more. That is why the motivation to be be conscious and honest towards a volunteer is very important, because themselves and their sending and it gives the strength needed to tackle hosting organisations as for their and negotiate obstacles when they motivations to go on a European appear and the will to lastingly accom- Voluntary Service. Deciding to go to a modate to the new community. foreign country for such an adventure, in Georgia or anywhere else, should be Status. Volunteers have to be aware motivated by a deep desire to discover of their own duties and rights. By

108 . . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . behaving according to their role within support from the hosting organisation, the hosting organisation, especially by to create elaborate projects by sharing assuming their responsibilities and not experience, knowledge and skills, overstretching those of others, volun- to respond to the actual needs and teers will avoid troubles. This attitude interests of local communities, and to helps to build trust within the working bring a dimension of sustainability into environment. In some organisations common initiatives. the ideas or initiatives of volunteers may be considered as secondary: Volunteers should never consider volunteers are supplemental workforce implementing activities behind the back and should be aware about the possi- of the hosting organisation. First, that bility that their actions may be limited may create unsolvable tensions within due to this status. On the other hand, the hosting organisation, and second in dynamic organisations volunteers the implemented actions will disap- often receive real responsibilities and pear as soon as the EVS project ends. a diverse set of tasks forcing them – in- Cooperation makes it possible for the tentionally or not – into long working local people who were involved in the days. However keeping one’s own role activities to decide to go on with the in mind and behaving accordingly is implementation after the departure of the main basis for further successful the volunteers. cooperation. Resources. Volunteers should have a Cooperation. Another element to positive attitude towards sharing and bear in mind during the volunteering using resources. Such resources are period is that volunteers have to work knowledge, skills or experience but with their hosting organisations. Coo- also materials, time or even optimism. peration might seem evident in theory but it is not so all the time in practice. Volunteers have to be receptive to any kind of advice or support that the Handling different working styles, hosting organisation proposes: they motivations or interests are not the know the local needs and situations. only challenge to face in working They also have valuable information together when coming from diverse about the organisation’s history, cultural backgrounds and being diffe- activities, partners, methods and funds. rently skilled. To create quality activities In any case volunteers should display cooperation is needed at every level. constructive attitudes, listen and It is the only way for volunteers to get consider all advice given by the host

. . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . 109 organisation. volunteer, the hosting organisation and the sending one – and, even more im- In the same way, volunteers should portant, to understand the EVS philo- contribute with ideas and initiatives sophy. It has been observed that some based on their own experiences and volunteers did not properly grasp the share their perceptions on the organi- philosophy of the European Voluntary sation of the running projects. One of Service, and this created some confu- the motivations for an organisation to sion between them and the hosting host a volunteer is to get fresh ideas organisations about the responsibilities, and views. Hence, the volunteer should commitments and roles of volunteers. use that opportunity to contribute to The EVS project is not only about vo- the organisation and, by extension, the lunteers’ preferences. It also considers community. the needs of hosting organisations and local communities. To know the EVS A volunteer has to be especially aware programme will help you to avoid a lot of the limited time resource of an EVS of misunderstanding about this topic. project. The volunteering period is Moreover, it could clarify how financial, set-up for a specific duration, which logistical and human support is framed unfortunately is not extendable. This and organised. forces volunteers to focus on their personal and professional aims right from the beginning of their projects. Therefore, volunteers should set up their objectives and action plans with as much detail as possible in order to avoid to run out of time at the end of the projects. With that end in mind, the training sessions during the EVS project might be useful as they do help volunteers to reflect on the needed steps to reach the targeted goals.

EVS Programme. Finally, each volunteer is encouraged to get acquainted to the EVS programme in order to learn the rights and responsibilities of the three contracting parties - the

110 . . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . Framework

Beside the volunteers’ right attitudes, Personal Preparation. Personal it is essential to have a supporting preparation includes several elements. structure for foreign volunteers First, it is recommended to get ac- helping them to face their work-re- quainted with the EVS programme, its lated challenges and to reach suc- philosophy, aims and objectives. Bearing cess in their projects. Therefore the in mind the rights and responsibilities European Commission, when setting of the involved partners is the basis for up the Youth in Action programme, a productive EVS project. established a couple of instruments that prepare volunteers before going, Likewise, reading or re-reading the supports them during their placements concrete project description before and helps them to reintegrate their leaving might be a good way for volun- own communities after the voluntee- teers to clarify beforehand what the ring period. aims and objectives of their personal EVS project are as well as the concrete Hence, besides its financial structure tasks they have signed in for. enabling volunteers to spend the EVS period without having to contribute Direct conversation between volun- with their own money, plenty of human teers, hosting and sending organisa- and logistical arrangements and mecha- tions, is a way to avoid misinterpreta- nisms provide long-term and emer- tions from the beginning. Therefore, at gency assistance, when necessary. least one month before the beginning of the EVS project, the volunteer and Therefore Framework aims at briefly the hosting organisation should get introducing which types of support are into regular contact in order to set up available for volunteers, but also which detailed arrangements for both work actions volunteers can undertake in and daily life. order to foresee or solve difficulties. Personal preparation also includes

. . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . 111 some intangible fieldwork: future vo- The Pre-Departure Training usually lunteers should feel mentally prepared one month before departure, provides to face challenges waiting for them in general information on the European the foreign countries they are going to. Voluntary Service and gives an over- This includes that they are ready and view about common problems of vo- able to reflect on their motivations for lunteers. It focuses on practical issues volunteering and about the possibili- like insurance, volunteers’ allowances, ties of gaining and contributing skills, etc., and on the EVS programme itself knowledge and experience. An EVS by clarifying elements like the rights project is a two-sided process, meaning and responsibilities of sending and that both hosting organisations and hosting organisations and volunteers. volunteers give and take. It also introduces cultural challenges volunteers usually meet while being Mentor and Coordinator. Every in the foreign country. This training volunteer is individually associated to session gives basic knowledge to every two specific persons: a mentor and a volunteer and helps them to envision coordinator. The mentor, who knows misunderstandings and problematic the hosting organisation, helps the situations. volunteer to find his marks in and integrate the new environment and The On-Arrival Training (OAT) is to cope with specific difficulties in conducted shortly after the arrival of daily life and at work. The coordinator, volunteers in their hosting countries who is in most cases a worker of the and organisations. The main aims of hosting organisation, gives tasks, su- OATs are to make volunteers familiar pervises and supports the volunteer’s with their new environment, the cultu- work concretely on a day to day basis. ral particularities of their hosting coun- Volunteers should refer as often as tries and to reconsider the volunteers’ necessary to these two people as they motivations. Moreover, basic facts on are the appointed human support for Intercultural Learning and crisis or all work related and daily life issues. conflict management are provided. This training session allows volunteers to Furthermore, every volunteer is reflect on their first impressions and obliged to attend compulsory training to determine what they would like to session which take place at strategic achieve during their EVS placement moments during a voluntary project and how. During that training session, and which vary in aims and objectives. volunteers usually indicate their first These are described below. problems concerning work which can

112 . . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . be easily addressed with the help and meeting with other volunteers who advice of the trainers. In the same way, are also in the final stages of their EVS they get the chance to meet other projects can be attended by volunteers. volunteers involved in different types However, the evaluation shall address of projects across the country. aims, objectives and expectations and scrutinize the working experience and The Mid-Term Meeting (MTM), as newly gained skills, the personal contri- the title indicates, takes place halfway butions to the host organisation and in a volunteering period. The main aims local community, as well as on personal of MTMs are to offer some space and support and care of the host and sen- time outside the hosting placements ding organisations. Time is also spent to discuss the evolution of the EVS on the reintegration of volunteers in projects in general and to exchange their own countries. experience with other volunteers in the same country. MTMs are a great Conflict Mediation. However, even opportunity to discuss and to tackle with all these supportive mecha- raising conflict situations in the living nisms to help volunteers and prevent and working environments. What’s misunderstandings, some conflicts may more, volunteers get some time and appear. Additional support measu- space to reflect on their own personal res for troubleshooting exist. This and professional achievements and to includes SALTO Multipliers present plan their future objectives. Intercultu- in the country whose task is to help ral Learning and conflict management volunteers and hosting organisations are scrutinized during MTMs. Volun- with general advice or mediating teers also start thinking about their in an emergency situation. SALTO plans for after their EVS projects and Multipliers are youth workers who are suggested some perspectives and have been selected by SALTO-EECA possibilities. Resource Centre for every Eastern European and Caucasian country (see The Final Evaluation of the EVS contact details in the chapter Resour- Activity (FE) is to evaluate the entire ces). If their mediation is not successful, EVS periods with volunteers. This the volunteer can approach the SOS- evaluation is supposed to be conduc- Volunteer-Helpdesk on http://ec.europa. ted with the sending organisation, but eu/youth/archive/program/sos/ which is it is recommended to evaluate the EVS an online support platform for trou- project also with the hosting organisa- bleshooting critical EVS problems. tion. In the best case a Final Evaluation

. . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . 113 Structural Obstacles

One of the main factors bringing organisations: troubles or failure to an EVS project . To provide decent accommodation to - besides logistical problems before volunteers and set up a budget for the departure caused by inexperienced volunteers’ EVS projects in terms of sending organisations or the wrong at- food and local transportation allo- titudes of volunteers - is definitely the wance. preparation of a volunteer’s placement . To prepare work schedules for volun- by the hosting organisation. Hosting teers indicating tasks, learning objecti- organisations are responsible for ves and time frames for the implemen- providing an environment that allows tation of their personal projects and volunteers to work on their appointed to make sure the work load is not too tasks, to feel comfortable in order to heavy, too light or too monotonous. take initiatives and to integrate local . To appoint a coordinator that helps communities. volunteers to organise their work at the beginning and develop their Unfortunately, theory may be far from personal projects later on. This coor- reality at different levels and different dinator is mainly responsible for the scales. The most common mistakes integration of volunteers in the hosting made by hosting organisations are organisation. listed below. Those are accompanied . To appoint a mentor who is responsi- by some related advice to future vo- ble for supporting volunteers in their lunteers that aims at raising awareness integration in local communities and about commonly observed problems. for helping them particularly at the This advice is valid for all EVS projects, beginning in their daily life chores like independently of the destination. shopping or transportation. . To prepare all workers in the hosting Duties. To understand common organisation to welcome the new- mistakes and tackle them, we need comer and understand his role. This to bear in mind the duties of hosting includes to raise awareness about

114 . . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . cultural differences and the problems is the best option. that may occur due to different working styles. Volunteers should always remain cooperative and should be aware At best all the above mentioned about the socio-economic state of aspects will be considered and solved their hosting countries when complai- before the arrival of the volunteer. ning about logistical arrangements like Unfortunately some organisations may accommodation or food allowances. not make these arrangements properly Inappropriate attitudes will bring no or on time. Below some common results and tensions will rise or persist. problems are listed. Working Schedule. At the begin- Logistics. Logistical problems com- ning of an EVS project usually a lot of monly occur, especially concerning attention is dedicated to the volun- accommodation and food allowance. teer, and the members of the hosting When the volunteer arrives, for organisation are very curious about various reasons, no accommodation the newcomer. The organisation and might have been organised or the its members are briefly introduced and appointed accommodation might not the first tasks given to the volunteer be decent enough or might not satisfy may be to check some publications the volunteer. In the same way, the or reports about the organisation in volunteer might consider the food order to get familiar with the organi- allowance is not sufficient because sation’s mission, target group and field either it is actually too small or the of action. volunteer’s usual diet implies an extra cost - e.g. eating imported products as Fully busy with cultural adaptation yogurts or cereals. and daily challenges volunteers do not recognise how fast the first weeks run If the reasons of dissatisfaction are away. After a while, volunteers might tangible - e.g. there is no bathroom or realise that they actually do not have kitchen available, or the door of the working schedules or clearly defined room does not close, etc. - volunteers tasks and that they are not integrated should raise the issue as soon as pos- in the organisation. A certain feeling of sible in order to find an agreed upon isolation within the organisation could solution. As for the food allowance dis- come up then. cussing honestly with hosting organisation to find a satisfactory compromise In such a situation, volunteers should

. . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . 115 meet their coordinators and mentors When organising working schedules by in order to express their difficulties themselves, volunteers should discuss and agree on deepened collaboration. their initiatives and ideas with collea- Furthermore, helping the members gues in order to involve interested of the organisations or taking small workers and to get support or advice initiatives from the start can help if necessary. If volunteers inform peo- volunteers to integrate. ple around them about their activities and their interests and plans, becoming Coordinator. Another problem more independent within the working frequently experienced by volunteers environment will be better accepted. is that the coordinator is in fact not often present at the working place and Mentoring. A common problem also hence is unavailable. In that case, volun- concerns mentors. Appointed mentors teers do not receive any tasks or do may not fulfil their duties and responsi- not have any working schedule, which bilities. Not helping volunteers to find leads to a lack of direct support within their marks, deal with daily life and get the organisation. to know people and places are minor problems as compared to mentors In this situation, volunteers should who do not support volunteers in case either talk with the mentor in order of real problems - e.g. going to the to change the coordinator, or begin to police for various declarations, helping collaborate with other workers in the with health care and translations, etc. organisation on their own initiatives. In the case of troubles within hosting If no change occurs, volunteers com- organisations, mentors who do not monly begin to organise their wor- know the organisations, who do not king schedules by themselves. Taking consider the position of the volunteers initiatives, finding activities is a great or who are totally unavailable might way to overcome the lack of collabo- become very problematic for volun- ration with the coordinator. Anyway it teers. However, it is possible, with di- might create some misunderstandings plomacy, to talk with hosting organisa- in the hosting organisation: why are tions in order to change mentors. That volunteers bypassing the authority of should be done cautiously in order not coordinators and being stressed about to create any trouble. Another solution having light working schedules, which is to informally refer to another per- means a lot of free time? son when support is needed.

116 . . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . Cultural Misunderstandings. Some Generally, the main reason for all these problematic situations might rise up problems is usually the lack of prepa- because of cultural differences. That ration within the hosting organisation usually appears after a few weeks, for hosting a foreign volunteer. But it especially if the workers of the orga- might also have some roots in or be nisations and volunteers had not been influenced by the lack of professional prepared enough about the cultural experience on the side of sending challenge that would appear when organisations that do not select and/or working in a multicultural environment. prepare volunteers properly, or volunteers with non-cooperative attitudes Working styles might be different, - these are described in the part Mind mutual expectations might hardly be These. understood and the general behaviour might be misinterpreted - e.g. coming Worst case scenarios can be easily on time vs. coming late, having private avoided but they unfortunately still phone calls during office hours vs. fo- occur. Therefore, volunteers should be cusing only on work, waiting for tasks aware of the troubleshooting possi- vs. taking initiatives. In a tense envi- bilities in such situations which are ronment, volunteers should be careful detailed in the chapter Framework. with demands, because claiming rights and responsibilities or requesting tasks, schedules and meetings are attitudes which could have some non-expected negative results.

Collaboration between people from different cultural backgrounds is one of the toughest parts of the volunteering period. Observation at the beginning, patience and respect on both sides and the will and effort to adapt are the best advice available. Signing up for an EVS project means to sign up for working on overcoming cultural barriers in order to set-up sustainable cooperation and projects.

. . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . 117 Challenges and Achievements

Beside the common challenges their motivation after a while. Great volunteers meet in foreign countries, ideas may be imagined but may not be volunteering in Georgia makes volun- implemented afterwards, schedules or teers face some situations they have deadlines may not be kept, or workers not been prepared for or they had may not respect an agreed-upon task never expected to occur. Nevertheless, division. Frustration and a feeling of because of the developing state of the fighting against windmills might appear, hosting structures in EECA countries, because no immediate change can be volunteers meet the below listed recorded by concerned volunteers. challenges with fairly regular frequency. Them appearing depends naturally on Impact and Benefit. This challenge if ta- the experience and preparation of the ken as such will let volunteers discover hosting organisations and the volun- that changes, especially behavioural or teer may not be confronted to any social changes, mostly do not occur as of these situations. Volunteers should fast as we may wish. This helps us to anyway be aware that they might occur. understand that it is worth trying again and again and vain to give up because However, dealing with and overcoming only continued efforts will eventually these demanding situations creates ad- produce visible effects and results. It ditional benefits which volunteers will also teaches volunteers how to keep gain from volunteering specifically in their personal visions and strengths to Georgia. Hence, for every specific chal- implement personal aims and ideas. lenge, an overview about the impact they may have and the achievement Dependence. Commonly, volunteers volunteers may reach are given. feel dependent in Georgia because communication with authorities, target Keep Motivated. Due to different groups, the members of other orga- working styles and work organisations nisations, or even within their hosting in Georgia a lot of volunteers lose organisations is difficult or impossible

118 . . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . due to the low level of knowledge of on one hand, as soon as the beginning English. Consequently, for example, of their projects volunteers are forced when a volunteer wishes to organise to develop personal initiatives or on a local workshop in a school, the first the other hand they receive no human contact if not the entire collaboration support for the implementation of with the principal has to be facilitated specific activities. Bearing in mind that by a Georgian colleague. In the same they are not supposed to have any way, fundraising for projects often professional skills linked to the field requires someone speaking Georgian. of their organisations’ work, the task All this often gives volunteers the might become very demanding. Volun- impression that without the help of teers can be consequently overloaded a colleague nothing can be done or and left alone to face the responsibili- arranged. ties of difficult missions for which they had not been prepared. Impact and Benefit. This challenge offers the chance for close collaboration with Impact and Benefit. This challenge the hosting organisation by strengthe- enables volunteers to gain a lot of skills ning the relation between an organi- and abilities by applying personal newly sation’s worker and a volunteer. It also acquired knowledge straight away produces creativity to set up, jointly in the projects. By being responsible with the hosting organisation, activities for entire projects and their success which require less language skills - e.g. volunteers will improve their skills in artistic activities or sports. Moreover project management very fast. At a because of the feeling of dependence, more personal level self-confidence volunteers are pushed into learning at and the feeling of being able to deal least basic Georgian to communicate with complex tasks will be enhanced. directly with locals. Inverted Learning Process. Some Underdeveloped Structures. In volunteers may think that in their some Georgian hosting organisations, hosting organisations a couple of the internal organisational structure is colleagues have functions for which underdeveloped. Some organisations they obviously do not have the re- are often only based on the initiative of quired qualifications or the necessary one or two persons, who are overwor- knowledge. Volunteers will very fast ked and have little time for continued find themselves in a situation in which cooperation with newly arrived volun- they not only do not get the help they teers. This can have two consequences: need for the implementation of their

. . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . 119 tasks, but also can note they are more create a feeling of helplessness in face skilled than their appointed support of the often dramatic life situations persons. Then, the learning process mi- they witness. ght turn around and volunteer will be expected to share knowledge and to Impact and Benefit. This challenge bears support the professional development the potential for volunteers to consi- of their colleagues. Such a situation der their own life situations and to va- produces confusion on both sides and lue small things and happenings. What’s an inversion of the working hierarchy more, it might show volunteers how is hard to manage. Volunteers might en- with small means and little changes counter scepticism and rejection while big impacts and great improvements feeling uncomfortable in the situation. can be achieved in the target groups, because for orphans or homeless Impact and Benefit. This challenge children being valued by being able to provides the opportunity for a very participate in a theatre play is essential. dense integration of volunteers in their hosting organisations. It will give them a lot of responsibility and involvement in different fields of work in order to improve the human and organisational capacity of their hosting organisations. Furthermore, volunteers will themselves acquire abilities and experience by sharing knowledge, if not by teaching skills.

Emotional Involvement. A lot of Georgian organisations work with homeless children, orphans, Internally Displaced People, disabled people, drug addicts or other vulnerable groups. Being involved in daily or temporary activities with these target groups means to be confronted with a lot of sensitive issues. Volunteers might get deeply emotionally involved into the fate of other people and this can

120 . . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . Practical Suggestions

Volunteers sometimes lack concrete or national music is a great event all ideas to get active. Deeply involved in guests will surely enjoy. Volunteers daily events and cultural challenges, can even teach traditional dances or volunteers might lose focus and forget organise initiation in some national what they wanted to achieve. There- games. Volunteers can also organise a fore the list below provides concrete gathering of people to discuss specific ideas and methods to implement small issues like cultural diversity, Europe, projects, which might be chosen by the active citizenship, etc. volunteer. If volunteers possess specific artistic However, volunteers should always skills, they can also set up classes, try first to take part in the running workshops or clubs on music, photo- activities of their hosting organisations, graphy, painting, etc. Art activities are because this allows a faster and better a good tool to create intercultural integration into the organisation and dialogue and help groups to express a deeper trust for further personal emotions and thoughts, especially initiatives. when dealing with children and disabled people. Culture and Arts. With the help of the present European volunteers’ com- Moreover, with or without experience, munity, or on their own, volunteers can to participate or organise theatre plays organise intercultural activities. It raises are of great interest for both local cultural awareness and enhances tole- communities and volunteers. Besides rance between locals and foreigners. the improvement in language skills, theatre plays support the development To organise an intercultural evening by of self-confidence and create social preparing cookies, drinks and dishes interactions. If volunteers work in a from different countries and presenting youth club, setting up a theatre group traditional customs, popular folklore can be an option for a long-term initia-

. . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . 121 tive concluding the voluntary project consider organising a rafting afternoon with a public representation of the play. if there is no financial support and no experienced people for coordination Hard skills. Volunteers can set up available. activities according to their own hard skills. It can be organised in a formal Different methods can be suggested to or informal way and can concern very set up activities concerning the above different themes such as computer described topics. skills, HIV/AIDS prevention, writing a Curriculum Vitae, Human Rights, Activities should make use of non- leadership, etc. formal educational methods such as role plays, discussions, group building These activities can also be organised activities, etc., which focus on the in a given language hence raising the integration and activation of all partici- language skills of participants. Moreo- pants. Moreover, they are an alternative ver, learning the local language will help to formal learning methods used in volunteers when they decide to set up schools and universities which young language classes within their organi- people know and deal with every day. sations. Teaching one’s own language, or another language one is fluent in is Regular Activities. Setting up regular valuable for both local communities activities helps to create a stable group and volunteers. of people which gather regularly. Be- cause of the frequent meetings, deeper Sports. Sports activities bring people results can be reached. After the de- from different backgrounds together. parture of volunteers, these activities Linguistic competence is of less impor- might even go on if the participants’ tance than human values like respect, motivation is strong enough and if they tolerance and supportiveness that can are given the opportunity. In agreement be taught by practicing sports. Sports with local needs and the choices of activities include dancing lessons, board volunteers, activities may be set up on game clubs, or even hiking excursions. weekly, biweekly or monthly schedules. When setting up sports activities, vo- For regular activities, both formal and lunteers should consider the knowled- non-formal educational methods can ge and the experience of their hosting be used, in agreement with the chosen organisations and of themselves, as topics and the target groups. well as the potentials of the environment. It is for example unadvisable to

122 . . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . Exceptional Events. To present for new collaborators or donors. This their own culture or to celebrate a requires skills in communication and particular day - e.g. the Day of Europe, diplomacy, as well as the availability for holidays in their home countries, etc. meetings in order to explain the aims, - volunteers can set up exceptional objectives, activities and structures of events. These should provide a specific the organisations - meaning volunteers programme with entertaining activities first need to know their hosting orga- for participants. These exceptional nisations very well. events can be of many different types: exhibitions, debates, traditional dancing Volunteers can also support their contests, etc. organisations by creating promotional material: flyers, booklets, short movies, Camps. Volunteers, in cooperation etc. This material can be used to pro- with their hosting organisations or mote organisations and to raise funds with other European volunteers, might for future projects. suggest to organise work camps addressing different issues or topics. The camps can target children with fewer opportunities and can be local, regional or national.

Campaigns. Volunteers can implement campaigns dedicated to specific topics, e.g. ecological awareness, safe sex, gender equality, minority rights, healthy life styles, addictions, etc. Identifying goals and objectives, choo- sing methods, creating programmes, promoting the initiatives or looking for funds are necessary tasks in order to realise such an event.

Promotion and Networking. Volunteers can take part in fundraising activities. They can help their organisations by being responsible for contacts with existing partners or by looking

. . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . 123

Concluding Remarks

The intention of this handbook is to promote both volunteering and volunteering in Georgia. By outlining the value of volunteering, describing the challenges of living and working in Georgia, but also indicating the benefits volunteers can gain and the tangible impacts they can have during their EVS projects, we hope that readers will experience the desire to discover Georgia as European Volunteers.

Being a volunteer in Georgia is a life time adventure for sure, and moreover an adventure which provides a lot of opportunities for personal development.

The diverse possibilities for personal initiative and the high level of responsibility volunteers can envisage in Georgian organisations imply great learning in professional contexts. The adaptation to Georgian culture, including experiencing different approaches to time, relations and priorities, gives a practical example of what In- tercultural Learning and respect really mean and what their values are. Finally, the day-to-day struggle of Georgian daily life may make volunteers feel nothing will be impossible after managing such difficulties.

Before you pack and land there, you should listen to a last warning: be aware that going on a European Voluntary Service project in Georgia will change you and your life forever...

... and be also sure it will be one of the most amazing time you will ever have spent or may ever spend in your entire life time...

Semi-Desertic Landscapes near David Gareji Cave Town 125

Resources

Resources directs to further resources about Georgia, Intercultural Learning and the European Voluntary Service for those who want to know more about the three topics of this book. This chapter provides books and movies about Georgia, refers to further readings about Intercultural Learning or to institutions working on these issues and provides links for more information about the European Voluntary Ser- vice.

Medieval Defensive Tower in Mestia, Upper-Svaneti Region 127 Georgia

The following readings and movies are Cossacks forces. His insights and views advised to anyone who is planning to on the culture at the end of the XIXth travel or to stay in Georgia. They illus- century are a good start to understand trate specific components of Georgian the people and their traditions. culture and history and reflect on the relations Georgia has with its neigh- Ali and Nino: A Love Story, Kurban bours. Said, 1937. This book written by the Jewish Azerbaijani writer Lev Nussi- .. Readings .. mbaum under his pseudonym Kurban Said was published in 1937 in Vienna. In The Knight in the Panther’s Skin, the shape of a love story between an Shota Rustaveli. This epic poem written Azerbaijani young man called Ali and a by Rustaveli during the reign of King Georgian woman called Nino, the no- Tamara, “Queen of the Queens and vel describes the life at the crossroads King of the Kings”, addresses humanist between European and Asian cultures values. Deeply connected to Geor- in Baku, Azerbaijan, during WW1. This gian culture and the Georgian way of book is a must to get to know more thinking, this book is – since it requires about the cultural characteristics of deep and full concentration - of great the Caucasus and the interrelations interest. between Georgians, Azerbaijanis and Armenians. Reading it before coming The Caucasus, Alexandre Dumas, to Georgia will give a general idea 1859. This diary held by the French about the cultures in Southern Cau- writer Alexandre Dumas describes his casus, but reading it while living there adventures during his journey from reveals different layers in the story. Astrakhan, in Russia, to Tbilisi, across Dagestan and Baku. At that time, the The Georgian Feast -The vibrant Caucasus region definitely lacked Culture and Savoury Food of the peace and he had to travel escorted by Republic of Georgia, Darra Golds-

128 . . . Resources . . . tein, 1993. This book provides a brief provides an overview of Georgian overview of Georgian history until the literature. It covers the whole history beginning of the 1990s and gives an of its literature, analysing the influences overview of Georgian cooking style of Greek, Persian and Russian literatu- and traditional table habits. In the first res, focusing on the art of oration and chapters Darra Goldstein explains poetry and describing the tragedy of different components of Georgian Georgian intellectuals during the Great celebrations and their symbolism. That Purges of Stalin in 1937. is followed by the recipes of traditional dishes with a description of their Georgia - In the Mountains of probable origins, the ways or occasions Poetry, Peter Nasmyth, 2001. By to consume them and their diverse portraying Georgian landscapes and variations. This book can help you to traditions, Nasmyth gives the desire learn how to cook Georgian dishes, to discover this country that has been sauces and pastries. all along history surrounded by strong powers like the Persian, Ottoman or The Making of the Georgian Nation, Russian Empires. Nevertheless, the Ronald Grigor Suny, 1994. Covering author demonstrates how Georgians the history of Georgia from its early managed to keep their culture alive. beginnings, through all invasions, during The book features a description of the Soviet Union era and until today, the epic tradition of writing and telling this book is recommended to anyone stories, table traditions, and it contains who wants to know more about the some chapters on religion. This book development of Georgia as a nation. is good to know more about the This book written at the beginning of current state of Georgian culture; it the independence unfortunately does also features interesting illustrations not include the latest political develop- and pictures. ments like the conflicts in Abkhazia and South Ossetia, the Rose Revolution Bread and Ashes - A Walk Through and the subsequent tension with the the Mountains of Georgia, Tony Russian Federation. Anderson, 2003. Tony Anderson walked along the Greater Caucasus Mountain The Literature of Georgia: A History, Range in Georgia from East to West Donald Rayfield, 1994 and revised in 1999. This book gives an account of edition in 2000. Written by a professor his experience in the remote mountai- of Russian and Georgian languages at nous territories. His journey aimed at the University of London, this book meeting people living there and at get-

. . . Resources . . . 129 ting to know their particular culture. to leave his land to look for his injured With the description of the fascinating son, a soldier. His journey turns out landscapes of Georgia, the observa- to be a real adventure in Europe. The tions concerning history, the relations movie that got an award at the 4th with neighbours and the culture of Moscow International Film Festival, the different people the author met, is the most famous Georgian movie this book is of great interest for future produced during Soviet times. It descri- volunteers to understand cultural bes very well how Georgians are: kind, differences in Georgia. In the same way, charismatic, talkative and resilient. the author often refers to the writings of former travellers, comparing their Mimino, directed by Giorgi Danelia, cultural observations with what he 1977. The Georgian helicopter pilot observes himself. Mimino from Telavi dreams of flying for international airlines and therefore Georgia Diary – A Chronicle of War goes to Moscow to make his dream and Political Chaos in Post-Soviet come true. There he meets an Arme- Caucasus, Thomas Goltz, (2006). nian truck driver and together they try Thomas Goltz, an American writer and to manage their life in the capital of the journalist, gives - based on his nume- USSR, but at the end Mimino returns rous visits to Georgia - a deep insight to his beloved Georgia because of into the political and social situation his homesickness. The movie is very in Georgia between 1992 and 1998. famous in all former Soviet Union The book focuses mainly on the civil republics and most people can recall war and on the war in Abkhazia and his jokes from it. However, this is not the reports are enriched with first hand only reason to watch it. It also gives an experience from different war zones. insight into the Georgian communistic It is generally easy to read and due to heritage and it shows some Georgian the good documentation of the author cultural characteristics. recommended for those who are interested in the political chaos Georgia Since Otar Left, directed by Julie went through in the 1990s. Bertucelli, 2003. Three generations of Georgian women live together in Tbi- .. Movies .. lisi: the grandmother Eka, her daughter Marina and her granddaughter Ada. Eka, The Father of a Soldier, directed by a passionate of French culture, hopes Rezo Chkheidze, 1964. During WW2, to see her son again who left a few an old Georgian winegrower decides years ago for France in order to find

130 . . . Resources . . . a “better life”, while Marina and Ada brings them there, they encounter an find it too cruel to tell her he is dead. old man with his grandchild carrying This movie describes the interrela- an empty coffin: these two Georgians tions between different generations in are going to the village of an enemy Georgian families with great subtlety. clan of their family in order to sacrifice The portraits of these three women the grandpa to end the bloody strife illustrate very well how different gene- between the two families. This movie rations perceive the current reality of shows still existing archaic traditions the country. in some parts of Georgia and illustrates deep cultural differences between Trip to Karabakh, directed by Levan Westerners and Georgians. Tutberidze, 2006. Two Georgians decide to head to Armenia to buy some drugs - on their chaotic way they got involved into the conflict in Nagorno-Karabakh. This movie is recommended for people who have never been to the Caucasus. It contains a deep insight into Caucasian intersocial relations and particularly into Georgia’s ambivalent perception of its neighbours. Caucasian issues like brotherhood, the importance of the family, social restrictions or hospitality are to be discovered along the movie. Besides, Trip to Karabakh gives a quick vision of the chaotic political situation in Southern Caucasus in the early 90s. It is a good starting point for a deeper understanding of the current situation.

Legacy, directed by Temur and Gela Babluani, 2006. Three French people, accompanied by their translator, travel through remote Georgian areas in order to claim a ruined castle that one of them has inherited. In the bus which

. . . Resources . . . 131 Intercultural Learning

Several sources of information are and to cultural diversity are of special listed below which are of relevant interest. They inform about specific interest to understand better the tools and methods about activities to mechanisms influencing Intercultural include young people with fewer op- Learning and non-formal education. portunities and from different cultural Some of these publications additionally minorities. Available online on www. provide basic knowledge about how to SALTO-YOUTH.net implement exercises and workshops in an intercultural context. They all give Training Kit n°4 Intercultural Lear- background information and support ning, a publication of the Council of for the experience a European Volun- Europe and the European Commission, teer will get. 2000. This manual presents what In- tercultural Learning is and means. The SALTO-YOUTH. The Support and training-kit describes different methods Advanced Learning and Training Op- used in non-formal education and how portunities structure within the Youth to implement them. For every method in Action programme of the European - energisers, individual exercises, Community aims at supporting youth discussions, role plays, problem solving, projects with particular attention to etc. - examples of activities are presen- issues like cultural diversity, social ted. Some keys are also given for the inclusion or to participation of young organisation of intercultural works- people and neighbouring regions such hops and exchanges. This booklet as EuroMed, South East Europe or is interesting for future participants Eastern Europe and Caucasus. This in the European Voluntary Service network of eight Resource Centres programme because it indicates what provides resources, information and non-formal education focusing on training for youth and youth workers. Intercultural Learning is and what For future volunteers, the Resource challenges volunteers will meet when Centres dedicated to social inclusion dealing with that topic. Available online

132 . . . Resources . . . on www.youth-partnership.net culture, or discrimination are given, along with questions inciting readers Training Kit n°5 International into reflection. The second part is Voluntary Service, a publication of the dedicated to activities, methods and Council of Europe and the European resources for non-formal education. Commission, 2000. This publication is Even if not a trainer, or not directly of particular importance to young peo- involved in training activities, future ple who consider going on a European European Volunteers might find here Voluntary Service. This manual features great inspiration for implementing a detailed approach of the different workshops on different topics within phases of a voluntary project and gives their volunteering period. Available precise advice for each step – the plan- online on http://eycb.coe.int/edupack ning and preparation of a volunteering project, collaboration with partner or- ID Booklet Ideas for Inclusion ganisations, the development and final and Diversity, a Practical Booklet return of the volunteer - to achieve a about Making your Youth Work high quality and successful project. Fur- and your International Projects thermore, this manual gives some tips more Inclusive and Reaching more on how to foresee or manage specific Diverse Target Groups, a publication troubles which commonly happen du- of SALTO-Youth Inclusion and Cultural ring voluntary projects. Available online Diversity Centres, 2006. This booklet www.youth-partnership.net is a great tool for future activities concerning matters of Intercultural Education Pack - Ideas, Resources, Learning. It explains in great detail Methods and Activities for Informal methods and exercises to work with Intercultural Education with Young different groups of people on the issue People and Adults, a publication of of inclusion and diversity. The first two the Council of Europe and the Human parts are dedicated to the meaning of Rights Education Associates, 2004. identity – one’s own and the others’ This manual is of relevant interest for – and give basic knowledge necessary everyone who is involved in youth to use the following parts on inclu- work and non-formal education. The sion and diversity. Both theoretical first part explains what Intercultural and practical, this booklet is useful to Learning is all about and why it is discover oneself before an intercultural relevant for the present and future experience as well as to get ideas to challenges of our societies. Key-ele- implement workshops. Available online ments for understanding identity, on http://www.salto-youth.net/IDBooklet/

. . . Resources . . . 133 Culture Matters - The Peace Corps Cross-Cultural Workbook, a publication of the Peace Corps Centre’s Information Collection and Exchange (ICE). This manual was published for American Peace Corps Volunteers, but is useful for anyone about to face volunteering challenges in foreign countries. The book features a theoretical background and group and individual exercises, deals with integration and adaptation in a foreign community and studies the difficulties volunteers might encounter in a new cultural environment. By its practical exercises and advice, it gives materials to reflect upon and become aware of our own culture and values. Available online on www.peacecorps.gov

134 . . . Resources . . . European Voluntary Service

While the European Voluntary Service “Youth”. http://ec.europa.eu/youth is very well advertised when taking place in member countries (the Eu- SOS Volunteer Helpdesk. This ropean Union countries plus Norway, Helpdesk provides needed and helpful Turkey, Iceland and Lichtenstein), this is information for future, current or not the case for neighbouring partner former volunteers. The most important countries. The following links offer section is a database of all organisa- further information about European tions which possess the Expression Voluntary Service projects within of Interest (EI) allowing them officially Eastern Europe and the Caucasus in to organise EVS projects like sending, general, and Georgia in particular. hosting and coordinating organisations under Action 2 of the Youth in Action Youth in Action Programme. The programme. Any organisation from a Youth in Action programme is the Programme country that wishes to programme implemented by the Euro- participate in the EVS programme has pean Commission dedicated to young to be officially registered and is then people and youth workers. It follows listed on the website. Unfortunately, the YOUTH programme and will be in this database does not list placements use from 2007 to 2013. The European in neighbouring country like Eastern Voluntary Service is Action 2 of the Europe and Caucasus (EECA) because Youth in Action programme. Compo- organisations that are located there nents of the programme are descri- are not obliged yet to possess an EI. bed in details on the website of the To know about available EVS place- European Commission in the section ments in the EECA region, it is needed

. . . Resources . . . 135 to contact the relevant structures: At the time of writing, the multipliers SALTO-EECA Resource Centre and its of SALTO-EECA for Georgia are: multipliers in the countries themselves. http://ec.europa.eu/youth/evs/aod/ . Giorgi Kakulia, Academy for Peace and Development, Tbilisi, giorgi.kakulia@ SALTO-Eastern Europe and Cau- gmail.com casus Resource Centre (SALTO- EECA). The SALTO-EECA Resource . Rusudan Kalichava, Association ATI- Centre, set up in 2003, aims at deve- NATI, Zugdidi, [email protected] loping and improving youth projects . Giorgi Kikalishvili, Youth Association within the frame of the Youth in Action DRONI, Tbilisi, [email protected] programme involving EECA countries following the policy for the neighbou- . Pavle Tvaliashvili, SIQA Georgian ring countries of the European Union. Association of Educational Initiatives, On its website it proposes informa- Rustavi, [email protected] tion for on-going projects and future cooperation with the EECA region as well as contact detail of youth workers involved in the programme. Informa- tion about SALTO-EECA on www.salto- youth.net/eeca/ and Support Service for EECA on www.salto-eeca.eu

Multipliers of SALTO-EECA in Georgia. Multipliers are the persons who have been selected by the SALTO-EECA Resource Centre in order to spread information and promote the Youth in Action programme in each EECA country. By contacting the multipliers, the future volunteer will get information about on-going projects and available placements for European Voluntary Service in different organisations across the given country. More information on www.salto-youth. net/eecamultipliers/

136 . . . Resources ...... Resources . . . 137

The Georgian Language

A short language overview is given below aiming at helping volunteers in their daily contacts with locals. Divided into different sections, it covers the different situations foreigners will meet when living in Georgia - e.g. shopping, using public transportation, giving basic information about one’s own activities, etc.

The Latin transcription is presented next to the Georgian version to help newcomers to familiarise themselves with the written alphabet. When the polite version differs from the familiar one, both versions are stated.

Alphabet. Georgian language possesses its own written alphabet featuring 33 let- ters. There is no distinction between uppercase and lowercase.

a - A J - J like in “pleasure” W - CH’ (ejective) b - B r - R (rhotic) x - X like in German g - G like in “go” s - S “Achtung” d - D t - T’ (ejective) j - DJ like in “jungle” e - E u - U h - H like in “house” v - V f - P z - Z q - K T - T R - GH like a French “r” i - I y - Q’ (ejective) k - K’ (ejective) S - SH like in “shop” l - L C - CH like in “chewing m - M gum” n - N c - TS like in “tsunami” o - O Z - DZ p - P’ (ejective) w - TS’ (ejective)

Wooden Balconies and Loggias, Old Centre of Tbilisi 139 Basics Yes. diax (diax) Yes. (neutral) ki (k’i) No. ara (ara) Hello. gamarjoba (gamardjoba) Hello (back) gaumarjos (gaumardjos) Good morning. dila mSvidobisa (dila mshvidobisa) Good afternoon. dRe mSvidobisa (dghe mshvidobisa) Good evening. saRamo mSvidobisa (saghamo mshvidobisa) Good night. Rame mSvidobisa (ghame mshvidobisa) How are you? rogor xar? (rogor xar?) Fine, and you? kargad da Sen? (k’argad da shen?) How are you? (Polite) rogor brZandebiT? (rogor brdzandebit?) Fine, and you? (Polite) kargad da Tqven? (k’argad da tkven?) Thank you. gmadlobT (gmadlobt) Thanks. madloba (madloba) Good bye. naxvamdis (naxvamdis) Good bye (Other form) mSvidobiT (mshvidobit) Please. Tu SeiZleba (tu sheidzleba) Please (Other form) gTxovT (gtxovt) Excuse me. ukacravad (uk’atsravad) Sorry. bodiSi (bodishi) Sorry (Other form) mapatieT (map’at’iet)

Do you speak any English/ Russian? laparakobT inglisurad/rusulad? (lap’arak’obt inglisurad/ rusulad?) Sorry, I don’t understand. ukacravad ver gavige (uk’atsravad, ver gavige) I don’t speak Georgian. ar vici qarTuli (ar vitsi kartuli) Can you repeat please? SegiZliaT, gaimeoroT? (shegidzliat gaimeorot?) Can you speak slower? SeiZleba, cota nela ilaparakoT? (sheidzleba tsot’a nela ilap’arak’ot?)

What is your name? ra gqviaT? (ra gkviat?) My name is Giorgi. me mqvia giorgi (me mkvia giorgi) Where are you from? sadauri xar? (sadauri xar?) I’m from Poland. me poloneTidan var (me p’olonetidan var) Where do you live? sad cxovrob? (sad tsxovrob?)

140 . . . The Georgian Language . . . I’m living in Tbilisi. me TbilisSi vcxovrob (tbilisshi vtsxovrob) I am a volunteer. me moxalise var (me moxalise var)

What is this? ra aris es? (ra aris es?) How is this called? amas ra qvia? (amas ra kvia?) How much does it cost? ra Rirs? (ra ghirs?) I would like this. ai, es, Tu SeiZleba (ai, es, tu sheidzleba) It is expensive. Zviria (dzviria)

Help! miSveleT! damexmareT! (mishvelet! damexmaret!) Go away! damanebe Tavi! (damanebe tavi)

Orientation Where is this station? sad aris es sadguri? (sad aris es sadguri?) What is the name of this street? es ra quCaa? (es ra kuchaa?) Where is Asatiani Street? sad aris asaTianis quCa? (sad aris asatianis kucha?) Which bus number is going to Abashidze Street? ra nomeri avtobusi midis abaSiZis quCaze? (ra nomeri avt’obusi midis abashidzis kuchaze?) Is this bus going to Mtshketa? es avtobusi mcxeTaSi midis? (es avt’obusi mtsxetashi midis?) How much to go to Freedom Square? Tavisuflebis moednamde ra Rirs? (tavisuplebis moednamde ra ghirs?) Is it far? Is it close? Sorsaa? axlosaa? (shorsaa? axlosaa?) To the right/ to the left. marjvniv / marcxniv (mardjvniv/ martsxniv) Here / There. aq / iq (ak/ ik) Stop here! aq gaaCereT! (ak gaacheret!) Stop at the corner! kuTxeSi gaaCereT! (k’utxeshi gaacheret!) Stop at the metro station! metrosTan gaaCereT! (met’rostan gaacheret!)

Numbers One erTi (erti) Six eqvsi (ekvsi) Two ori (ori) Seven Svidi (shvidi) Three sami (sami) Eight rva (rva) Four oTxi (otxi) Nine cxra (tsxra) Five xuTi (xuti) Ten aTi (ati)

. . . The Georgian Language . . . 141 Eleven TerTmeti (tertmet’i) Twenty one ocdaerTi (otsdaerti) Twelve Tormeti (tormet’i) Twenty two ocdaori (otsdaori) Thirteen cameti (tsamet’i) Thirty ocdaaTi (otsdaati) Fourteen ToTxmeti (totxmet’i) Forty ormoci (ormotsi) Fifteen TxuTmeti (txutmet’i) Fifty ormocdaaTi (ormotsdaati) Sixteen Teqvsmeti (tek’vsmet’i) Sixty samoci (samotsi) Seventeen Cvidmeti (chvidmet’i) Seventy samocdaaTi (samotsdaati) Eighteen Tvrameti (tvramet’i) Eighty oTxmoci (otxmotsi) Nineteen cxrameti (tsxramet’i) Ninety oTxmocdaaTi (otxmotsdaati) Twenty oci (otsi) Hundred asi (asi)

Countries Georgia saqarTvelo (sakartvelo) Armenia somxeTi (somxeti) Azerbaijan azerbaijaini (azerbaidjaini) Turkey TurqeTi (turketi) Russia ruseTi (ruseti)

Cities Bakuriani bakuriani Batumi baTumi Borjomi borjomi Gori gori Kazbegi yazbegi Kutaisi quTaisi Mestia mestia Mtskheta mcxeTa Poti foTi Rustavi rusTavi Tbilisi Tbilisi Telavi Telavi Zugdidi zugdidi

142 . . . The Georgian Language ...... The Georgian Language . . . 143

Acknowledgements

This handbook is an initiative of the Academy for Peace and Development (APD), an international youth organisation located in Tbilisi, Georgia, which is dedicated to promoting peace and cultural diversity in Southern Caucasus. More information about the organisation and its activities on www.apd.ge

The handbook owes a debt of gratitude to those who wrote testimonies, shared experiences, opinions and were of great inspiration during the writing process. Those people, who will for sure smile when recognising that this note is written for them, were of considerable and valuable help by listening at any time to questions and requests, by giving advice and inspiration and by being patient at both professional and personal levels, especially when the only interest of the authors was this handbook.

A special thanks goes to three volunteers Helve Rammul, Maartje Schrama and Inge Snip for their contributions to the handbook.

The first versions of the handbook were influenced by a mix of different languages daily used in Georgia by the authors. That is why they especially want to express their deep gratitude to Dr. Jacques Coulardeau, University of Paris 1 Panthéon Sor- bonne, for his proofreading of the final written version before publication. (Contact: 8 rue de la Chaussée, BP 9, 63880 Olliergues, France / +33(0)473.955.917)

The authors express their regards to those who carefully and critically read some sections or the whole handbook and contributed their comments and suggestions to the final version.

Last but not least, the authors are sincerely thankful that the publication of the present handbook was made possible by the financial support of the Academy for Peace and Development (APD) and of the SALTO Multipliers in Georgia - Giorgi Kakulia, Rusidan Kalichava, Giorgi Kikalishvili and Pavle Tvaliashvili.

Market near Kobuleti 145

Authors

This Handbook was written and designed by Sebastian Schweitzer and Tiphaine Coulardeau.

Tiphaine Coulardeau, a European Volunteer in the Academy for Peace and Develo- pment in 2007-2008, studied Architecture and Urbanism focusing on international cooperation in developing contexts at the School of Architecture of Toulouse, the Technische Universiteit of Eindhoven and the Universitat Internacional de Catalu- nya, Barcelona. She wrote her dissertation on urban perceptions in the city of Gro- ningen. She is particularly interested in the diverse understandings of identity and culture and how those are expressed and reflected through arts and spaces.

Sebastian Schweitzer went to Georgia for European Voluntary Service in 2006-2007 after he graduated in Political Sciences focusing on political transformation processes in Post-Soviet countries at the University of Potsdam. He worked in Germany on political education and has been for more than five years involved in European projects, particularly in international youth work. Currently working as a programme manager for the Academy for Peace and Development in Tbilisi, he is as well a free-lance trainer on different topics like conflict resolution, project management and Intercultural Learning.

When writing this handbook both authors gained a deeper understanding of Inter- cultural Learning processes. Indeed, they enjoyed sharing their views and perceptions of Georgian culture.

To contact the authors: [email protected]

Tea Fields inside the Gonio Fortress, 12km South of Batumi 147 148 Georgia

Anecdote of a European Volunteer in Georgia

The Trip to the Post Office. “At the beginning of my stay in Georgia, a colleague of mine proposed to accompany me to the Post Office to pick up a parcel. It was the beginning of the afternoon, during office hours, and I definitely thought that this excursion will take one hour maximum. But, I did not consider Georgian timing. The trip to the Post Office ended up to be a trip to many places all around the city: going to the bank to get important papers, buying a donut on the way, going back to the bank to get some forgotten document, making a phone call, stopping at the donut shop for the Donut we did not get the first time, visiting the new attraction park just to see and take a picture, etc... The trip took finally a few hours and I definitely got impressed how time is extendable! From then on, when a Georgian proposed me to go somewhere, I made sure that I did not have any obligation for the next coming hours!”

Volga Car, Tbilisi

Anecdote of a European Volunteer in Georgia

Urgent Phone Bills. “Using a landline at home and not having paid the bills for a few months, we once got a phone call asking us to come to the main office to pay our phone bill. When we arrived at the office the clerk provided us with the detail of the calls, but the bill contained some calls which were not ours and which had been made more than two years before. We kindly asked if it was possible to pay just for our own calls but unfortunately the clerk answered that no, we had to pay the whole bill. Considering the high level of it and its obvious “emergency”, we decided this bill could wait a few more months... Three months later we still had a working landline and a very urgent bill to pay!”

Public Phones, Tbilisi

Anecdote of a European Volunteer in Georgia

Asking the Way... “Wishing to go to the cave town of David Gareji with some friends, we decided to take a marshrutka to Sagarejo and from there share a taxi. Arriving on the main square of Sagarejo, we were a bit confused because no taxis were around. So, to play it safe, we asked a policeman. The policeman after discussing for ten minutes in a quite animated conversation with his colleagues brought us to the Police Station. Though we did not understand what was going on and were afraid of wasting our time, we were informed that everything was under control and that we will soon meet the Police Superintendant of Sagarejo district and that he will arrange something for us. We ended up in the office of the Superintendant and after one hour of small talk and play with the puppy the Superintendant just bought for his children, two men brought us to an amazing glass tinted car, bought us some sodas and started taking on a crazy ride to the cave town. The day trip finished, as could be expected, in a restaurant for a Georgian dinner with vodka and toast with these two Georgian policemen!”

Hole in Footpath, Tbilisi

Anecdote of a European Volunteer in Georgia

Cocktail Bar. “I remember one evening I went to a very nice Art Lounge cocktail bar with a date: cosy place, nice music, scenic atmosphere and great menu…but the cocktail menu was tricky! We tried to order cocktails but the waiter spoke neither English nor Russian. We finally managed to communicate thanks to a friend of the waiter’s: he kindly told us that if we wished some cocktails we should go to the bar to make them oursel- ves! As making cocktails is one of my hobbies, I did not mind to make a small show. So I went to the bar, asked for a shaker and some ice and took the needed bottles from the bar shelf. I properly crushed the ice, supplemented the process with a dancing show of my own and when all attention was captured by the foreigners making cocktails, I managed to conjure two delicious “Sex on the Beach”! We enjoyed these fabulous “self-made” cocktails and I will always remember my perfect date in this Georgian Cocktail Bar!”

Grapes, Kakheti Region

Anecdote of a European Volunteer in Georgia

The Supra I Will Never Forget. “I attended a lot of Georgian feasts but this one I will never forget. After a friend of mine had had one of his relatives’ child christened, we all went to have a supra together. A lot of people were there and we were squeezed all around the table. As usual, food and wine never finished and I can really not remember how we went back home and how much wine we drank, but one toast I will ever keep in mind: when the priest that christened the child had to leave, he was invited to make a toast. His toast was for all the women on earth and particularly for those around the table, but uncommonly in Georgia he asked all women to stand up and join the already standing men. He explained that according to Georgian tradition man and woman are equal and that this is unfortunately often forgotten by a lot of people...”

Georgian Women

Volunteering in Georgia A Handbook Georgia is a mysterious country for most people all around the world. This handbook is dedicated to all brave young people just dreaming or already packing to confront themselves to their Georgian adventure to come as European Volunteers.

Reading this booklet will give these newly-hatched volunteers some sense of orientation in the confusing reality of their new environment with plenty of unknown events, circumstances, encounters, haps and mishaps in a sonic dramatic decor of particularly obscure expressions like ... Marshrutka, Giorgoba, Mts- kheta, Khvanchkara...