ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams THE SOLITUDES Photo courtesy of Ithe Nevada Commission of Tourism. of Commission Nevada Ithe of courtesy Photo RED ROCK CANYON Photo courtesy of Ithe Nevada Commission of Tourism. of Commission Nevada Ithe of courtesy Photo SPRING VALLEY STATE PARK Once you get your fill of neon and glitz, step beyond the bright lights of Las Vegas to stretch your legs and your spirit amid an unspoiled landscape of big rocks Photo courtesy of Ithe Nevada Commission of Tourism. of Commission Nevada Ithe of courtesy Photo WARD CHARCOAL OVEN and broad horizons. STATE HISTORICAL PARK 8 Scenic Route Vol.2 / No. 1 ROUTE 66 Road Trip NEVADA, NATURALLY he Las Vegas strip cel- place to catch your breath. cruising U.S. Highway 93, which ebrates a delightfully In southeastern Nevada, it seems, stretches north of Las Vegas through unnatural world, a it really is possible to have the best the Sheep Range and Delamar T place where the Eiffel of both worlds. Mountains. It’s a trek that’s well- tower rises just blocks away from the known to snowbirders and routinely Statue of Liberty, where pirate ships North: Seeking populated by RVers en route to the do battle in the city streets and gon- the Solitudes next big adventure. dolas glide through the desert. Diane and Patrick Filbin make But the region is also a wor- But just beyond the surreal urban their home in northern Nevada, near thy destination in itself, ripe with playground of this fast-growing Reno, and have camped throughout uncluttered views, rugged undu- community stretches a world of nat- Nevada and Arizona in their 23- lating terrain and wide-open blue ural wonders: towering mountains, foot Trail-Cruiser travel trailer. So skies. To people like the Filbins, it windsculpted sandstone, sparkling they’ve figured out one of the big is desolate and vast and beautiful in high-desert lakes and miles of quiet secrets to desert driving: Stop. Get its simplicity. Little wonder Nevada hiking trails. out. Breathe. Experience it. has dubbed this portion of the state Head due west out of Vegas and “You really have to stop and get “The Solitudes.” As state tourism you can experience the raw, craggy out and look around,” Diane explained. literature touts, the wide unbridled landscape of Red Rock Canyon, just “Otherwise, you miss so much.” landscape is “an hour north of Vegas minutes away by RV, auto or bicycle. Desert driving may well be an and a million miles away.” Amble northward and sample the var- acquired taste. One driver may gaze While on a return trip from vis- ied geographic flavors along the Great upon the dry, sweeping landscape, iting their daughter, who teaches Basin Scenic Byway, a region that see monotonous sameness, and rush school in Las Vegas, the Filbins took boasts Nevada’s highest concentra- to move through it. Another driver some time to appreciate the scenery tion of state parks. Aim eastward and will revel in the spice-colored scen- and scout future camping spots for explore the expansive, rippling shore- ery, see it as a fascinating geological family gatherings. There are plenty line of Lake Mead and the engineering sculpture garden, and pull into every to choose from. marvel of Hoover Dam. Choose a scenic turnout. “There are all these parks avail- northeasterly route, and you’ll find Count the Filbins among the able all the way up through here,” yourself gawking at the ancient, multi- latter. Patrick explained. hued palette of the Valley of Fire. “When you bother to stop, you That’s seven state parks, to be Best of all, the sites are really no notice different things every time,” exact, with a spectacular national gamble — they’re close at hand with Diane Filbin said. “Just driving park thrown in for good measure. entrance and camping fees that won’t through you don’t always appreciate Just wandering from state park to break the bank. Most of these natural the beauty.” state park makes for some great, attractions are an easy drive from the “Plus, at this altitude, things scenery-packed driving. But be sure frenetic pace of downtown Vegas, really cool down at night. It’s not as to poke into some of the small towns yet feel a galaxy apart. For many, hot out here as it is in Las Vegas,” along the way, each offering their the serene, open spaces are a perfect Patrick Filbin added. own peculiar history. antidote to the clatter of casinos. Around the start of the new Here’s a quick primer on the A welcome change of scenery, a year, the Filbins found themselves variety of views that await you: (Right, top to bottom) Beyond Las Vegas lies a land of sweeping vistas and scenery-packed drives, from the vast, craggy desertland dubbed “The Solitudes” to lively Red Rock Canyon, just 17 miles west of town and a hiker’s paradise. Spring Valley State Park and the Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historical Park may be off the beaten path, but worth the short trek from U.S. 93. CATHEDRAL GORGE (Main) With fascinating spires, caves and pillars carved by erosion, Cathedral Gorge State Park 9 STATE PARK offers hikers hands-on adventure. Scenic Route Vol.2 / No. 1 Beaver Dam State Park, voir. Boaters are welcome, but boats must not Caliente, Nevada exceed 5 mph or create a wake. With deep canyons of wrinkled volcanic Open year-round, the park is popular for rock, rolling pinion, juniper and ponderosa camping, boating, fishing and winter sports pine woodlands, meandering streams (that including ice fishing, cross-country skiing actually host beaver dams) and a small and ice-skating. Given the park’s elevation, reservoir, this is considered Nevada’s most visitors can expect harsh winters and mild primitive and rustic park. The drive to reach summers. Sheepherders are known to make it is one clue of the remoteness — head 28 summer camp in the area, and deer hunters miles east of U.S. 93 on a graded gravel use park campsites in the fall, but hunting is road, which is actually not advised for large not allowed within the park. motorhomes. The park features two designated camp- But those who make the journey find grounds: Elk Flat and Lake View. Both offer dancing rainbow trout break the waters flush toilets and showers. A fee of $14 cov- on well-stocked Schroeder Reservoir, quiet ers entrance and camping. All campsites are camping and hiking that takes you past a level and include a fire pit with grill, table 20-foot waterfall. and parking. Access roads to the campsites A note of caution: Visitors should call are generally unpaved. first to check on current conditions. A breach In mid-January, the park is also home to Photo courtesy of Ithe Nevada Commission of Tourism. of Commission Nevada Ithe of courtesy Photo in the dam last year emptied the reservoir the White Pine Fire and Ice Show, a popular BRISTLECONE PINE and damaged some hiking trails. regional snow and ice-sculpting competition. Facilities include three campgrounds with some sites suitable for trailers up to 20 Echo Canyon State feet long. Water hydrants are available May Park, Pioche, Nevada through October. There is no trash collection. Anglers will certainly want to check Entrance and camping fees are $10, but out this 65-acre reservoir and campground first call (775) 726-3564. located 12 miles east of Pioche. The water- front features a boat ramp, fish-cleaning sta- ATIONAL PARK ATIONAL Cathedral Gorge State tion and picnic area. The reservoir is stocked Park, Panaca, Nevada with rainbow trout, but also attracts a variety A well-appointed regional visitor’s center of water birds, including an occasional trum- N along U.S. 93 marks the entrance to this sce- peter swan. Photo courtesy of Ithe Nevada Commission of Tourism. of Commission Nevada Ithe of courtesy Photo nic canyon, so take time to stop in. The center You’ll also find 33 campsites, with flush LEHMAN CAVES offers an excellent orientation to the region toilets and an RV dump station. Drinking and indoor toilets . a welcome amenity in water is available near each site. The fee the desert, we found. for entrance and camping is a bargain at The picturesque park is only a short drive $10. Hikers will enjoy the Ash Canyon trail, away, located in a long, narrow valley that which leads into the park’s vast back country. really does appear to be some kind of natu- The 2.5-mile trail begins in the upper camp- ral wonderland. Centuries of erosion have ground, climbs 800 feet in 1/3 mile to the sculpted the native soft bentonite clay into valley rim and descends into Ash Canyon. fantastic caves, gothic pillars and cathedral- It joins the highway in Rose Valley near like spires. Hiking trails abound, offering the eastern park entrance and returns to the hands-on adventure for kids. campground through Echo Canyon. Indian Shaded picnic areas and a no-frills tree- artifacts and ancient petroglyphs can still be Photo courtesy of Ithe Nevada Commission of Tourism. of Commission Nevada Ithe of courtesy Photo shaded 22-site campground (with dump sta- found in the area, but are protected under MT. CHARLESTON tion, restrooms and showers) are available. federal law and should be left untouched. (top to bottom) Bristlecone pines — the lon- Camping is first come, first serve. Pay the gest living trees on earth — can be found at $4 entrance fee and drive or hike about, or Great Basin National Wheeler Peak, in Great Basin National Park, simply drive a mile north on U.S.