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1 The Best of

It’s little wonder that South Korea has had such a tumultuous past. Extending south from China, and just north of Japan, the Korean Peninsula has long been strategically desirable to both countries. As a result, Korea has fought invaders from Mongolia, Manchuria, China, and Japan over the course of its 5,000-year history. But the most traumatic moment in Korea’s past came after a 35-year Japanese occupation that ended with the close of World War II. The Soviet Union was to oversee the northern half of the peninsula, while the U.S. oversaw the south, ostensibly until fair elections could be held. But it was not to be. The Soviets and the U.S. were unable to agree on how to reunify the country, and on June 25, 1950, Soviet-backed troops from what had become known as North Korea crossed the 38th parallel and invaded South Korea. The United Nations sent troops (predominantly American soldiers) to the South’s defense, but Korea had fallen victim to the Cold War. Though an armistice was signed on July 27, 1953, it resulted in the formal division of the peninsula into North and South with a buffer, the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), in between. Its name is a tragically ironic one, as the DMZ is one of the world’s most heavily guarded places. But while North Korea remains essentially sealed off to out- siders, South Korea, which makes up 45% of the peninsula (making it the same size as Portugal), is one of the most fascinating tourist destinations in the world. Looking at a map, you might think it would be easy to traverse South Korea’s 99,237 sq. km (38,315 sq. miles). But nearly 70% of South Korea is made up of seem- ingly impenetrable mountainous terrain. That terrain has helped many of South Korea’s regions maintain their unique charms and has gifted the country with some of the most stunning national parks in all of Asia. South Korea is very much a land of contradictions. Rugged mountain ranges slope down to pristine beaches, and bustling, cosmopolitan cities are surrounded by farm- land. South Korea is an exotic land of colorful celebrations and beautiful landscapes, rife with traces of its thousands of years of history. At the same time, the country has industrialized so profoundly and so rapidly that, in urban areas, you may sometimes have to look a bit deeper to see the beauty amid the high traffic, smog, and towering concrete apartmentCOPYRIGHTED blocks. MATERIAL All the more reason then to get out of the major cities and explore. You’ll be well rewarded by the quiet beauty of the mountains and the sea, and the mystical charms of South Korea’s ancient temples and fortresses, as you explore a vast countryside rarely visited by international tourists. Although English-speakers are hard to find in some of these more remote areas, it’s all part of the excitement and adventure of tak- ing the roads less traveled. 04 181911-ch01.qxp 4/28/08 2:19 PM Page 2

2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SOUTH KOREA

1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences • Staying Overnight in a Buddhist dirt cheap, it’s fun to get caught up in Temple: Many temples in South the excitement of bargaining. Korea offer overnight stays, where • Being Naked in Front of Hundreds you can enjoy true solitude and quiet, of Strangers: Okay, so nudity isn’t the and perhaps a bit of inner peace. real attraction. That would be the tra- Wake up early to the sound of ditional bathhouses (or even better, prayers, and cleanse your mind, body, the water parks featuring hot springs) and spirit with a bath and a meal of scattered throughout South Korea. mountain vegetables. See chapter 3. Don’t leave the country without relax- • Sipping Tea in a Traditional Tea- ing in a hot sauna with a bunch of old house in Insadong (): In the ladies (or old men) or getting a water middle of Seoul’s cosmopolitan mad- massage at one of Korea’s many spas. ness, you’ll find a bit of tranquility • Seeing a Traditional Performance: within the walls of a traditional tea- Whether you’re in Seoul or hanging house. Enjoy the music of a gayageom out in a rural village seemingly in the (a traditional stringed instrument) middle of nowhere, there is probably while calming your spirits with a cup a festival going on nearby. Try to catch of history. See p. 87. a performance of gayageom, a mask • Haggling with a Vendor in an dance, or just the hallowed sound of Open Market: South Korea’s markets the bamboo daegeum (flute). are bustling centers that can be found • Visiting the DMZ: The Demilita- along winding alleyways and crowded rized Zone is probably one of the streets. You haven’t truly experienced least aptly named places on the South Korea until you’ve elbowed planet. A result of the last vestiges of your way through the crowd and con- animosity between Soviet Russia and vinced a vendor to drop the price on the U.S., now that the Berlin Wall something by at least a couple of has fallen, Korea is the only divided won. Even if that souvenir is already country in the world. See chapter 5.

2 The Best Small Towns • Icheon (Gyeonggi-do): Just outside green tea noodles, or some green tea of Seoul, this town is one of the fore- ice cream. See chapter 7. most ceramics centers in the country, • Damyang (Jeollanam-do): The bam- famous for its traditional artisans. boo capital of South Korea, this town The dozens of active kilns in the area is famous for its bamboo forests and are a vital part of Korea’s cultural her- for producing pretty much anything itage. See chapter 5. and everything you could imagine • Boseong (Jeollanam-do): In late from this versatile plant. My advice is March and early April, the first new to lose yourself for a moment in the tea leaves peek out from tea bushes midst of the bamboo and listen as the along these terraced farmlands. The leaves of these tall grasses whisper hillsides here are gorgeous even in the secrets to the wind. See chapter 7. dead of winter, but seeing dozens of • Gurim (Jeollanam-do): A tiny village older women hand-picking green tea located just outside of Wolchulsan is quite a treat. Finish off your visit National Park, this historic locale with a cup of (what else?) green tea, is known for its ancient pottery and 04 181911-ch01.qxp 4/28/08 2:19 PM Page 3

THE BEST TEMPLES & HOLY SITES 3 its replicas of antique works. See • Tongyeong (Gyeongsangnam-do): chapter 7. Tongyeong is the hometown of • Andong (Gyeongsangbuk-do): An- world-renowned classical composer dong’s folk village is the best in the Isang Yun. Once you see the magnif- country, bar none. It even warranted icent views from the city’s ocean-side a visit from Queen Elizabeth II, as cliffs, you’ll see why the composer, locals will be happy to inform you. If who spent much of his career in Ger- you can, try to visit in October when many, yearned so much for his home- the mask dance festival is on, to expe- town. See chapter 8. rience traditional folk performances. See chapter 8.

3 The Best Temples & Holy Sites • Magoksa (Gongju-si, Gyeonggi-do): country with a two-story pavilion. One of the few temples that wasn’t Destroyed five times since it was orig- destroyed during the Joseon Dynasty’s inally built in A.D. 544, it was last crackdown on Buddhists, it’s worth a rebuilt in the mid–17th century. If visit as much for its scenery as its you can spare the time, the rest of ancient structures. See p. 169. Jirisan is worth exploring as well. See • Shilleuksa (Yeoju, Gyeonggi-do): p. 232. Although it’s a bit out of the way, the • Hyangilam (Suncheon, Jeollabuk- country’s only lakeside temple is do): Perched on a precarious moun- worth the trip. Founded in A.D. 580 tainside, this former hermitage is now and nestled amid low hills, Shilleuksa a temple complex. Wake up early to is the perfect spot for quiet reflection. climb up its steep steps and catch the The carved reliefs of dragons and sunrise over the ocean. You’ll also lotus blossoms are lovely, but the big miss the busloads of tourists, who draw is the scenery, particularly in the usually arrive in the late afternoon. spring, when the flowers are in See p. 225. bloom, or fall, when the ginko trees’ • Songgwangsa (Suncheon, Jeol- yellow leaves light up the landscape. lanam-do): It’s quite a trek to reach See p. 148. this temple, but once you do, you • Beopjusa (Boeun, Chungcheong- will be rewarded with both a fabulous buk-do): Although the views are view of the surrounding foliage and pretty fabulous and the five-story some brilliant red and gold murals wooden hall quite impressive, this representing a range of religious fig- temple’s main attraction is its giant ures. Try to time your visit for the bronze Buddha, which towers over noon or evening prayers, as you’ll be the mountain scenery. See p. 187. treated to the echoing of the medita- • Baegyangsa (Jeollanam-do): Known tive gong. See p. 226. for the beautiful colors of its sur- • Unjusa (Hwasun, Jeollanam-do): rounding landscape in the fall, it’s This temple complex is not only easy smaller than its sister temple Nae- to reach (no giant mountains to climb jangsa, located in the same national to get here!), but it also houses the park. See p. 236. most fascinating array of Buddhist • Hwaeomsa (Masan, Jeollanam-do): statuary in the country. See p. 235. One of South Korea’s 10 most impor- • Bori-am (Namhae, Gyeongsangnam- tant temples, it is the only one in the do): One of the three main holy sites 04 181911-ch01.qxp 4/28/08 2:19 PM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SOUTH KOREA in the country, climb up to this her- Koreana, this famed temple (and mitage and pray to the Bodhisattva of UNESCO World Heritage site) Compassion. If you’re pure of heart, should be showing off its new renova- your wishes will be granted. Even if tions at the end of 2008. Try to go in you’re not, you’ll be treated to a spec- the late afternoon to see the wooden tacular view. See p. 294. blocks (through locked slats), but • Bulguksa (): A testament to stay past sunset to hear the sound of Shilla architectural ingenuity, this the gong echoing through the valleys. famed temple—possibly the country’s See p. 291. most visited—has had its wooden • Naksansa (Yangyang, Gangwon-do): structures rebuilt multiple times, but Naksan Temple is undergoing restora- its stone statues have hung on since tion after a devastating fire in 2005, A.D. 528 Early mornings are best to but you’ll be able to see the place even enjoy a taste of its former tranquillity. though it may be a work in progress. See p. 245. Happily, a beautiful statue of the Bod- • Haeinsa (Hapcheon, Gyeongsang- hisattva of Compassion still overlooks do): Home of the famous Tripitaka the East Sea nearby. See p. 345.

4 The Best Historical Sites • Changdeokgung (Seoul): If you Incheon, is home to about 80 dol- want to see how Korean royalty used men, prehistoric rock tombs dating to live, this palace is a prime example. back thousands of years. See p. 143. This spot’s famed Secret Garden • Gwanghallu-won (Namwon, Jeol- alone is worth the visit. See p. 93. labuk-do): Home of the legend of • Jongmyo Royal Shrine (Seoul): Chunhyang (a traditional love story There’s a reason this myo (royal about a nobleman’s son who falls in shrine) is a World Heritage site—it’s love with a courtesan’s daughter), this the most important one in the coun- garden is not only a mecca for lovers, try and is home to the longest tradi- but a spot where pansori, an opera- tional wooden building left in Korea. style perfomance, made its debut. Try Try to time your visit for the spectac- to visit between April and October ular annual memorial ceremony for and catch the free performance at the dead Joseon kings (usually the noon. See p. 204. first Sunday in May). See p. 98. • Daereung-won Tumuli Park • Suwon Hwaseong (Suwon, Gyeonggi- (Gyeongju): There’s something eerily do): The best restored fortress in the peaceful about the tumuli (tombs) that country, this impressive wall has his- house the remains of Shilla kings. toric gates and towers climbing a Although only one of the tombs has mountain in the middle of the now been excavated, just seeing the grassy modern city. See p. 130. mounds is interesting enough. See • Ganghwa-do (Incheon, Gyeonggi- p. 246. do): This island, off the coast of

5 The Best Places to Enjoy the Scenery • Cheonggyecheon (Seoul): Years ago, Cheonggyecheon is no longer a “nat- a small river that flowed through ural” stream, this restored green space Seoul was paved over. Although in the middle of the city gives new 04 181911-ch01.qxp 4/28/08 2:19 PM Page 5

THE BEST MARKETS 5 perspective to the skyscrapers tower- flying south for the winter. See ing on either side. See p. 106. p. 226. • Songnisan (Chungcheongbuk-do, • Geumgangsan (Gangwon-do, North Gyeongsangbuk-do): This national Korea): Although this is part of park has some of the best hiking trails North Korea, the mountains can be in South Korea. In a country where reached by tour from South Korea. hiking is the unofficial national sport, Not only is it worth a trek just to be that’s saying something. See p. 187. able to venture into that closed coun- • Juwangsan (Gyeongsangbuk-do): try, but the scenery is truly gorgeous, The smallest of the country’s national too. See p. 373. parks, it is still one of the prettiest. • Inner Seorak (Gangwon-do): Jusanji Lake, whose clear waters Although all of Seoraksan boasts reflect the surrounding peaks, is well beautiful landscapes, the less traveled worth the hike. See p. 269. inner section is worth the extra trek, • Hong-do (Jeollanam-do): If you especially in the fall when the have a day to spare, take a ferry to this autumn colors light up the moun- “red island” in the middle of Dado- tainsides. See chapter 10. hae Maritime Park. A protected area, • Sanbang-gulsa (Jeju-do): This island its pebble beaches and quaint seafood grotto and nearby Dragon Head restaurants are overshadowed only by Rock are wonderful examples of the its magnificent scenery. See p. 236. island’s natural beauty. See p. 392. • Suncheon-man (Jeollanam-do): An • Seongsan Ilchulbong (Jeju-do): This expansive marshland and estuary, this isn’t called “Sunrise Peak” for noth- is a bird-watcher’s heaven, especially ing. This former parasitic volcano is during the migratory period (Oct– now home to beautiful rape flowers March). Bundle up and bring your that bloom in the spring. See p. 393. binoculars to see endangered species

6 The Best Markets • Namdaemun (Seoul): If you only • Yongsan Electronics Market (Seoul): shop in one market in the entire Even if you’re not a computer geek, country, this is the one to visit. The you can appreciate the electronic oldest and largest traditional market mayhem in this marketplace that in Korea, they say that if you can’t spans 22 buildings. See p. 117. find it here, it probably doesn’t exist. • Hanbok Street (Daejeon, Chung- See p. 113. cheong-do): Whether or not you’re in • Jang-anpyeong (Seoul): The best the market for a traditional Korean place to find antiques, Jang-anpyeong outfit, check out the hundreds of is one of the largest specialized mar- stores that specialize in the national kets in all of Asia. If you’re looking costume (a short bodice and volumi- for a unique treasure, this is the place nous skirt for women; a vest, an over- to go digging. See p. 115. coat, and pants that tie at the waist • Noryangjin Seafood Market (Seoul): and ankles for men), which is still The city’s oldest and largest fish mar- worn for weddings and other formal ket, if you can make it here at the occasions. See p. 162. crack of dawn you can see the fish • Yakjeon-golmok Market (): auctions, while the fishermen unload The city’s biggest draw is this 350- their night’s catch. See p. 113. year-old market that sells all manner 04 181911-ch01.qxp 4/28/08 2:19 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SOUTH KOREA of traditional oriental herbs and med- everything squiggly, shiny, and fresh icines. See p. 255. from the ocean. See p. 330. • Jagalchi Market (): Korea’s largest seafood market, they have

7 The Best Festivals & Celebrations As a general note, most celebrations hap- skin treatment while rolling around in pen in the spring or autumn. For dates the mud. The dirty activities include and contact information, see also “Calen- mud wrestling, mud slides, and mak- dar of Events” on p. 18. ing mud soap. • The Day the Buddha Came (or • Pusan International Film Festival Buddha’s Birthday; throughout the (PIFF; Busan): The largest and most country): Sometimes referred to as renowned of Korea’s film festivals, it the festival of lanterns, every temple is a wonderful showcase for current in the country gets lit up like a films from throughout Asia. Christmas tree in celebration of the • Andong Maskdance Festival (An- birth of the Enlightened One. dong, Gyeongsangnam-do): Although • Baekje Cultural Festival (Buyeo or the highlight of the festival is the Gongju): Every October, this histori- Korean talchum (mask dance), per- cal event celebrates the great Baekje formers from other countries show kings with over 100 performances off their traditional splendor. and events throughout the area. • Gangneung Danoje Festival (Gang- • Boryeong Mud Festival (Daecheon, neung, Gangwon-do): Celebrating Chungcheongnam-do): Held on the the traditional “Dano” (the fifth day muddy beaches of Daechon every of the fifth month of the year), it is July, this is basically organized mud one of the few places you can see tra- play on the beach. It’s not only a great ditional shamanistic rituals. photo op, but you also get a beneficial

8 The Best Local Accommodations • Holiday In Korea Hostel (& 02/ family-run minbak (homestay) in 3672-3113): Great for budget-con- Gyeongju is not only a bargain, but a scious travelers in Seoul, this hostel is great way to experience warm Korean cozy and centrally located. The own- hospitality firsthand. See p. 249. ers throw a party every Saturday • Busan Youth Hostel Arpina (& 051/ night, which is especially great for 731-9800): For the price, the loca- single travelers looking to make tion, and the convenience, this is the friends. See p. 75. best budget accommodation in • Kim’s Guest House (& 02/337- Busan. The rooms are modest, but 9894): It’s hard to find a better bar- some of them have views of Haeun- gain in Seoul with this kind of hospi- dae Beach. Suites are great for travel- tality. You’ll get a simple dorm-style ing families or groups. See p. 310. room, but the owner makes you feel • Jazz Village (& 064/738-9300): like you’re visiting family. See p. 76. This Korean-style pension in Jeju-do • Sarangchae (& 054/773-4868): has both hotel-style rooms and Walking distance to Tumuli Park, this condo-style facilities, complete with 04 181911-ch01.qxp 4/28/08 2:19 PM Page 7

THE BEST DINING EXPERIENCES 7 kitchens. A bit off the beaten path, its families, and the piped-in soft jazz is facilities are great for vacationing a fun touch. See p. 385.

9 The Best Hotels • Westin Chosun (& 02/771-0500): • Novotel Ambassador Busan (& 051/ Just like an old standard, this hotel is 743-1234): With a prime location dependable and delightful for travel- on Haeundae Beach, this is one of the ers who want a place that’s high tech best luxury hotels in the city. You’ll and centrally located. Leave your find incredibly comfortable beds and shoes by the door and they’ll be up-to-date facilities, and its location shined by the next morning. The is prime for spur-of-the-moment friendly, professional staff is helpful beach strolls. And if you get hungry with everything from dining recom- any time of day or night, they have mendations to hailing you a cab. See 24-hour dining on-site. See p. 308. p. 71. • Hyatt Regency Jeju (& 064/733- • The Shilla Seoul (& 02/2233-3131): 1234 or 800/492-8804 in U.S. and Located in the green oasis of Namsan Canada): A Jungmun Beach stan- in the middle of the city, you won’t dard, this elegant resort hotel is one find quieter digs than this. The serv- of the best on the island. Unlike the ice is also nearly perfect. Spacious newer tourist properties, this hotel rooms and polite staff add to a nice has kept its understated elegance. The stay. See p. 73. open lobby with glass elevators is a • Chungmu Marina Resort Condo nice touch. See p. 383. (& 055/643-8000): Convenient for • Jeju Lotte Hotel (& 064/731-1000): traveling families or groups, this The best hotel in the Lotte chain, this resort has oceanview rooms complete expansive resort overlooks the ocean with kitchens and living rooms. This in the Jungmun beach complex. Look apartment-style spot is a great place past its cheesy Las Vegas–style water to enjoy the dramatic beauty of show to see its expansive grounds and Tongyeong. See p. 288. spacious rooms. See p. 383.

10 The Best Dining Experiences • Noshing in the Food Alley in Nam- place to rest your tired feet and let the daemun Market (Seoul): You haven’t world pass by on the streets below. really experienced the charm of an See p. 124. outdoor market until you’ve had a • Cooking Your Own Meat on a bite to eat from the street vendors in Tabletop Grill: For the full Korean this shijang (market). Fuel up for dining experience you really must try your next round of shopping with a galbi (beef short ribs) or samgyupsal fresh flatcake hot off the griddle or a (sliced pork) that you’ve cooked your- plate of soondae (blood sausage). See self on a grill at your table. p. 113. • Dine on Top of the World (Seoul): • Enjoying a Cup of Tea While Over- Okay, so you’re not technically on top looking the City’s Shoppers (Seoul): of the world, but you do get a pretty Although Seoul’s Insadong district great view of the city below when you has more traditional tea shops, the dine at Top Cloud. Come for dinner, modern O’Sulloc Tea House is a great 04 181911-ch01.qxp 4/28/08 2:19 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SOUTH KOREA when the lights of Seoul twinkle meal. Luckily you just point and the below. See p. 82. work is done for you, and you can’t • Drinking Homemade Rice Wine in get it any fresher than that. See a Remote Village: If you get a chance p. 316. to travel to one of South Korea’s small • Eating Fresh-Caught Live Squid: villages, stop under one of the There’s nothing like having to catch thatched roof joints to enjoy a gourd your food with your chopsticks full of the milky rice wine makgeolli, before it has a chance to wriggle away. and some good old-fashioned tradi- In Jeju-do, Busan, or other seaside tional food. towns, look for this exciting delicacy • Having Hot Chicken Soup on an for adventurous eaters. Equally Hot Day: Certain Koreans • Enjoying Everyday Jeolla-do Cui- believe that fighting fire with fire is sine (Jeolla-do): The Jeolla-do region the way to go. So to beat the oppres- has the best food in the whole coun- sive summer heat, the masses get try—and it’s not just Jeolla residents their own bowl of samgyetang (young who’ll tell you this. You can walk into chicken soup). If that doesn’t keep any restaurant and get a good, if not the doctor away, nothing will. excellent, meal without breaking the • Picking Your Catch at Jagalchi bank. A regular hanjeongshik (Korean Market: There’s a certain power to traditional meal) is a great way to deciding which fish is going to get enjoy the fresh vegetables and rice sliced up for your hwae (raw fish) from the area.