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Panel tasting New Zealand Pinot Noir This challenging grape variety produces myriad styles across this small country, says Bob Campbell MW. The one constant is that quality is continually improving SAUVIGNON BLANC MIGHT pay the bills, but New Zealand’s rising reputation as a fine wine producer is largely due to Pinot Noir. In just a few decades it has gone from experimental to exciting as Kiwi winemakers get the measure of this challenging grape variety. The real miracle is not just how far Pinot Noir quality has grown, but that it continues to grow strongly every year. Pinot Noir vines were first planted in the 19th century but fell victim to phylloxera. The variety returned to Kiwi soil in the 1970s and was put on the map when St Helena’s 1982 Pinot Noir from Canterbury scored a gold medal at a local wine show. A few years earlier, a scientific report noted that Martinborough had a climate that was similar to Burgundy. A few hopefuls including Ata Rangi, Martinborough Vineyards and Dry River bought land and planted Pinot in the alluvial gravel terraces of Martinborough. Other regions soon followed, although high-quality Pinot Noir production is restricted to the southern part of the country from central Hawke’s Bay down to Central Otago. It should be noted that the majority of the Pinot Noir grown in Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne is used in sparkling wine production. Every region from Hawke’s Bay south can make top Pinot. Regional differences are sometimes obvious but can be blurred by vineyard aspect (hillside versus plains), sub-regional variation (cooler Gibbston sites vs Nelson Maggie Map: hotter Bendigo conditions in Central Otago) and, of course, viticultural and winemaking methods. Vintage NZ Pinot: variation adds further complexity. New Zealand Pinot Noir: the facts know your vintages Focus on quality Pinot Noir production In the early years of New Zealand’s short Pinot Noir 2015 Very good to with Central Otago (2015) 25,763 tonnes history the simple, fruity, accessible wines were very excellent across key marginally in front. Pinot Noir vineyard area different to the more structured, austere and complex regions; Marlborough (2014) 5,492 hectares Burgundy benchmark. That stylistic gap has narrowed and Martinborough in 2011 Marlborough Pinot Noir plantings as winemakers grow in confidence and experience. the lead and Waipara and Canterbury are good. (2014) Marlborough Harvesting earlier to achieve more savoury complexity close behind. Cool and wet in Central 2,492ha; Central Otago and lower alcohol levels; a higher percentage of stems in Otago – drink up. 1,484ha; Wairarapa the ferment for greater structure and future complexity; 2014 More variable. 500ha; Waipara 344ha; and a period of maturation that closely resembles the Marlborough gets top 2010 Very good in Hawke’s Bay 311ha; Nelson Burgundian approach have been adopted by many of vote. Early charmers in all regions, particularly 241ha; Canterbury 72ha; the country’s more adventurous winemakers. Central Otago. Tricky Martinborough. Gisborne 48ha Effectively 10% of Pinot Noir vineyards are now time in Waipara. sustainable, with a growing number adopting organic 2009 Big, ripe and and biodynamic methods, Central Otago leading the 2013 A top vintage; accessible Central charge. Many of the country’s older vineyards have now Martinborough, Central Otago wines, and cooler celebrated their 30th birthday too, giving their wines Otago and Canterbury, styles in Marlborough; greater concentration and consistency. leading the way. Otago average elsewhere. However, one of the biggest drivers of Pinot Noir wines are structured quality is not vine age, organic viticulture or the use of and should cellar well. 2008 Cool, whole bunches during fermentation, but an annual rain-affected vintage. Bob Campbell MW is the workshop where the country’s Pinot winemakers gather 2012 Consistently Some good wines but Decanter World Wine to critique each other’s bottlings and discuss ways in very good everywhere variable results. Awards Regional Chair which they might be improved. for New Zealand ➢ DECANTER • September 2016 | 77 Panel tasting The results With 116 wines Recommended or above, and many as low as £11, this was a succesful tasting from ‘the best Pinot-producing country outside France’, says Christelle Guibert WITH 172 WINES on show, from a country that has built ‘The: fruit purity was excellent up a reputation for phenomenal Pinot Noir, it was not The scores surprising that our three experts were excited about this and the general quality of the 172 wines tasted tasting; expectations were very high. Exceptional Philip Tuck MW believes that New Zealand makes the tannins was vey good’ Philip Tuck MW 0 best Pinot Noir outside France – a view shared by Christine Parkinson. ‘It’s definitely the best New World Outstanding producer at the moment, though there are other suggests that Marlborogh should promote its sub- 7 countries trying to catch up,’ she said. ‘What makes New regions sooner rather than later.’ Brown agreed: ‘The Highly Zealand interesting is the combination of fruit purity, the sub-regions in Marlborough are so different, diverse and Recommended delightful acidity thanks to a relatively cool climate, dynamic. It is a shame that producers aren’t showcasing intelligent winemaking and moderate alcohol levels.’ or telling the world about them.’ 34 The panel had mixed views on regionality. Tuck The experts were unanimous in their praise for the Recommended didn’t think that distinct characteristics were obvious. winemaking. Tuck said the standard was admirably high: 75 ‘As with Burgundy, you get more winemaker influence in ‘The fruit purity was excellent and the general quality of Pinot Noir, and this will probably override any regional the tannins was very good.’ Parkinson found the wines Commended characters. I suspect regionality may come with vine age.’ ‘sophisticated’ with (apart from the odd few) not too 43 Parkinson pointed out, ‘it’s not that the vines are 30 much oak. ‘Generally there is an understanding that the Fair years old in a country that’s been growing Pinot for five fruit is important and winemakers let the variety speak centuries. It’s a country that has only been growing for itself.’ But she drew an important parallel with the 11 grapes for 30 years, so everything is still a learning curve French heartland of Pinot Noir. ‘Much as it is in Poor for producers.’ Burgundy, even if you know your regions, the key to 2 Melanie Brown praised the relatively new South getting a good wine is to know your producers. Pinot is Faulty Island region of North Canterbury ‘The wines showed a very demanding grape to make a good wine from, and elegance and purity, and were exceptionally I think it will come down to individual producers as much 0 approachable. It’s a slightly different style to all the as regions. I think we are seeing a glimmer of that other regions and I think it’s one to watch for Pinot.’ happening now and it will be increasingly important Parkinson and Brown felt Martinborough and Central over the next few years.’ Otago were the most promising regions with distinct When it comes to how and when to drink these personalities. Brown described Martinborough’s wines wines, the panel felt that many of them need to be as ‘generous, savoury and broader on the palate’, while enjoyed within a few of years of the vintage, perhaps Entry criteria: producers Central Otago ‘was more fruit-forward and opulent’. with the exception of those from Martinborough. and UK agents were invited Our experts came to the tasting with a idea that Parkinson praised their suitability to food: ‘These aren’t to submit their latest- release, UK-available, Marlborough was going to be the best region but were fruit bombs – they are sophisticated wines that will stand 100% Pinot Noirs from New left rather disappointed. Parkinson found the wines up really well to food. This is a marker of their quality Zealand. Two wines per inconsistent. ‘We saw some very different styles which and the potential the country still has with this variety.’ producer were permitted. The judges Melanie Brown Christine Parkinson Phillip Tuck MW Driven by the desire to Parkinson started her Tuck MW has been in highlight New career as a head chef, the wine business for Zealand’s most gaining responsibility 30 years, starting exciting producers, for 39 restaurants. She straight out of Brown played a then decided to follow university in 1986 at fundamental role in her passion for wine Averys in Bristol. He transforming the wine and, in 2001, created then worked for list of chef Peter the first wine list for wineries in countries Gordon’s The chef Alan Yau’s including South Africa, Providores and Tapa Room in London into the Hakkasan Group in London. She is a regular New Zealand, Australia, USA, Chile and Italy. largest offering of premium New Zealand wine judge at wine competitions and has been He returned to the UK in 1994 to help set up UK in the UK. From this she established her own called ‘one of the most creative wine buyers in wine agency Hatch Mansfield and he became a wine retailer, The New Zealand Cellar, followed the UK’ by Jancis Robinson MW. Master of Wine in 1999. by a wine bar and shop in Brixton. 78 | September 2016 • DECANTER New Zealand Pinot Noir Outstanding 95–97pts Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, Giesen, Clayvin Single Vineyard Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 95 Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: MB 95 CP 95 PT 96 Melanie Brown 96 Christine Parkinson 96 Phillip Tuck MW 96 £35 Ehrmanns, Lay & Wheeler, Olivers Beer & Wine, Stone Wines, Winedown £27.95-£32.50 AC Gallie, Averys, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Daniel Clayvin was Marlborough’s first hillside vineyard and has produced Lambert, Ellies Cellars, Hawkshead, James Nicholson, Love Wine, Vagabond, Worcester some of the region’s very best Pinot Noirs.

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