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Panel tasting New Zealand Pinot Noir This challenging variety produces myriad styles across this small country, says Bob Campbell MW. The one constant is that quality is continually improving

Sauvignon Blanc might pay the bills, but New Zealand’s rising reputation as a fine producer is largely due to Pinot Noir. In just a few decades it has gone from experimental to exciting as Kiwi winemakers get the measure of this challenging grape variety. The real miracle is not just how far Pinot Noir quality has grown, but that it continues to grow strongly every year. Pinot Noir vines were first planted in the 19th century but fell victim to . The variety returned to Kiwi soil in the 1970s and was put on the map when St Helena’s 1982 Pinot Noir from Canterbury scored a gold medal at a local wine show. A few years earlier, a scientific report noted that Martinborough had a climate that was similar to . A few hopefuls including Ata Rangi, Martinborough and Dry River bought land and planted Pinot in the alluvial gravel terraces of Martinborough. Other regions soon followed, although high-quality Pinot Noir production is restricted to the southern part of the country from central Hawke’s Bay down to Central . It should be noted that the majority of the Pinot Noir grown in Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne is used in production. Every region from Hawke’s Bay south can make top Pinot. Regional differences are sometimes obvious but can be blurred by aspect (hillside versus plains), sub-regional variation (cooler Gibbston sites vs Nelson Maggie Map: hotter Bendigo conditions in Central Otago) and, of course, viticultural and methods. NZ Pinot: variation adds further complexity. New Zealand Pinot Noir: the facts know your Focus on quality Pinot Noir production In the early years of New Zealand’s short Pinot Noir 2015 Very good to with Central Otago (2015) 25,763 tonnes history the simple, fruity, accessible were very excellent across key marginally in front. Pinot Noir vineyard area different to the more structured, austere and complex regions; Marlborough (2014) 5,492 hectares Burgundy benchmark. That stylistic gap has narrowed and Martinborough in 2011 Marlborough Pinot Noir plantings as winemakers grow in confidence and experience. the lead and Waipara and Canterbury are good. (2014) Marlborough Harvesting earlier to achieve more savoury complexity close behind. Cool and wet in Central 2,492ha; Central Otago and lower alcohol levels; a higher percentage of stems in Otago – drink up. 1,484ha; Wairarapa the ferment for greater structure and future complexity; 2014 More variable. 500ha; Waipara 344ha; and a period of maturation that closely resembles the Marlborough gets top 2010 Very good in Hawke’s Bay 311ha; Nelson Burgundian approach have been adopted by many of vote. Early charmers in all regions, particularly 241ha; Canterbury 72ha; the country’s more adventurous winemakers. Central Otago. Tricky Martinborough. Gisborne 48ha Effectively 10% of Pinot Noir vineyards are now time in Waipara. sustainable, with a growing number adopting organic 2009 Big, ripe and and biodynamic methods, Central Otago leading the 2013 A top vintage; accessible Central charge. Many of the country’s older vineyards have now Martinborough, Central Otago wines, and cooler celebrated their 30th birthday too, giving their wines Otago and Canterbury, styles in Marlborough; greater concentration and consistency. leading the way. Otago average elsewhere. However, one of the biggest drivers of Pinot Noir wines are structured quality is not vine age, organic or the use of and should cellar well. 2008 Cool, whole bunches during fermentation, but an annual rain-affected vintage. Bob Campbell MW is the workshop where the country’s Pinot winemakers gather 2012 Consistently Some good wines but World Wine to critique each other’s bottlings and discuss ways in very good everywhere variable results. Awards Regional Chair which they might be improved. for New Zealand ➢

DECANTER • September 2016 | 77 Panel tasting The results With 116 wines Recommended or above, and many as low as £11, this was a succesful tasting from ‘the best Pinot-producing country outside France’, says Christelle Guibert

With 172 wines on show, from a country that has built ‘The: purity was excellent up a reputation for phenomenal Pinot Noir, it was not The scores surprising that our three experts were excited about this and the general quality of the 172 wines tasted tasting; expectations were very high. Exceptional Philip Tuck MW believes that New Zealand makes the was vey good’ Philip Tuck MW 0 best Pinot Noir outside France – a view shared by Christine Parkinson. ‘It’s definitely the best New World Outstanding producer at the moment, though there are other suggests that Marlborogh should promote its sub- 7 countries trying to catch up,’ she said. ‘What makes New regions sooner rather than later.’ Brown agreed: ‘The Highly Zealand interesting is the combination of fruit purity, the sub-regions in Marlborough are so different, diverse and Recommended delightful acidity thanks to a relatively cool climate, dynamic. It is a shame that producers aren’t showcasing intelligent winemaking and moderate alcohol levels.’ or telling the world about them.’ 34 The panel had mixed views on regionality. Tuck The experts were unanimous in their praise for the Recommended didn’t think that distinct characteristics were obvious. winemaking. Tuck said the standard was admirably high: 75 ‘As with Burgundy, you get more winemaker influence in ‘The fruit purity was excellent and the general quality of Pinot Noir, and this will probably override any regional the tannins was very good.’ Parkinson found the wines Commended characters. I suspect regionality may come with vine age.’ ‘sophisticated’ with (apart from the odd few) not too 43 Parkinson pointed out, ‘it’s not that the vines are 30 much . ‘Generally there is an understanding that the Fair years old in a country that’s been growing Pinot for five fruit is important and winemakers let the variety speak centuries. It’s a country that has only been growing for itself.’ But she drew an important parallel with the 11 for 30 years, so everything is still a learning curve French heartland of Pinot Noir. ‘Much as it is in Poor for producers.’ Burgundy, even if you know your regions, the key to 2 Melanie Brown praised the relatively new South getting a good wine is to know your producers. Pinot is Faulty Island region of North Canterbury ‘The wines showed a very demanding grape to make a good wine from, and elegance and purity, and were exceptionally I think it will come down to individual producers as much 0 approachable. It’s a slightly different style to all the as regions. I think we are seeing a glimmer of that other regions and I think it’s one to watch for Pinot.’ happening now and it will be increasingly important Parkinson and Brown felt Martinborough and Central over the next few years.’ Otago were the most promising regions with distinct When it comes to how and when to drink these personalities. Brown described Martinborough’s wines wines, the panel felt that many of them need to be as ‘generous, savoury and broader on the palate’, while enjoyed within a few of years of the vintage, perhaps Entry criteria: producers Central Otago ‘was more fruit-forward and opulent’. with the exception of those from Martinborough. and UK agents were invited Our experts came to the tasting with a idea that Parkinson praised their suitability to food: ‘These aren’t to submit their latest- release, UK-available, Marlborough was going to be the best region but were fruit bombs – they are sophisticated wines that will stand 100% Pinot Noirs from New left rather disappointed. Parkinson found the wines up really well to food. This is a marker of their quality Zealand. Two wines per inconsistent. ‘We saw some very different styles which and the potential the country still has with this variety.’ producer were permitted. The judges Melanie Brown Christine Parkinson Phillip Tuck MW Driven by the desire to Parkinson started her Tuck MW has been in highlight New career as a head chef, the wine business for Zealand’s most gaining responsibility 30 years, starting exciting producers, for 39 restaurants. She straight out of Brown played a then decided to follow university in 1986 at fundamental role in her passion for wine Averys in Bristol. He transforming the wine and, in 2001, created then worked for list of chef Peter the first wine list for in countries Gordon’s The chef Alan Yau’s including South Africa, Providores and Tapa Room in London into the Hakkasan Group in London. She is a regular New Zealand, Australia, USA, Chile and Italy. largest offering of premium judge at wine competitions and has been He returned to the UK in 1994 to help set up UK in the UK. From this she established her own called ‘one of the most creative wine buyers in wine agency Hatch Mansfield and he became a wine retailer, The New Zealand Cellar, followed the UK’ by Jancis Robinson MW. Master of Wine in 1999. by a wine bar and shop in Brixton.

78 | September 2016 • DECANTER New Zealand Pinot Noir

Outstanding 95–97pts

Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, Giesen, Clayvin Single Vineyard Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 95 Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: MB 95 CP 95 PT 96 Melanie Brown 96 Christine Parkinson 96 Phillip Tuck MW 96 £35 Ehrmanns, Lay & Wheeler, Olivers Beer & Wine, Stone Wines, Winedown £27.95-£32.50 AC Gallie, Averys, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Daniel Clayvin was Marlborough’s first hillside vineyard and has produced Lambert, Ellies Cellars, Hawkshead, James Nicholson, Love Wine, Vagabond, Worcester some of the region’s very best Pinot Noirs. Established in 1991 this Wines, Grape & Grind, Slurp, South Downs Cellars, St Andrews Wine Co organically farmed site is planted on complex, clay-based soils with Owners Roger and Jean Gibbson have lived in the Lowburn Valley of high-density vines to produce low yields of quality grapes. The Clayvin Central Otago for 25 years and recognised the viticultural potential of a vineyard has a reputation for producing long-lived wines that develop north-facing slope on their property. Roger holds a Masters degree in great complexity. Giesen purchased this 13.4ha vineyard in 2015 after applied science and works part-time as a viticultural tutor at the Otago sourcing grapes from it since 2011 and leasing it since 2013. Polytech, while Jean has a degree in horticultural science. Their vineyard MB Real aromatic complexity, depth and purity enhanced by well- has been pasture for more than 100 years and is rich in organic matter. judged oak. Ample mid-palate fruit, but not at all jammy. Exquisite! Melanie Brown Lovely cool-climate fruit – fresh and vivid. Very pure CP Intensely seductive liquorice and tar aromas then a complex palate with unforced concentration. Fantastic complexity with great length. of baked fruit and toast. The fruit undertones are precise and pure, Christine Parkinson Fragrant, ripe red berry aromas then plum and while the smoky, chewy, peppery notes add another level of wonder. watermelon flavours framed by dark, savoury oak. Very supple texture. PT Richly textured and intense black are bright and vibrant and Phillip Tuck MW Gloriously bright with wonderful farmyard nuances intermingle with wonderfully well-rounded oak which is enticing and and a distinct mushroom edge. Complex, savoury layers. Truly beautiful. warm. Spot on!

Drink 2016-2018 Alcohol 13.5% Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14.5%

Greywacke, Marlborough 2013 95 Palliser Estate, Great Hector Pinot MB 95 CP 95 PT 96 Noir, Martinborough 2013 95 MB 95 CP 95 PT 96 £29.95-£33 Liberty Wines, Noel Young, The New Zealand Cellar, Villeneuve Kevin Judd was the founding winemaker at Cloudy Bay and directed £30.50 Justerini & Brooks the company’s first 25 vintages until establishing his own label in 2009. Palliser Estate is not one of the earliest Martinborough producers, but it The grapes for this wine were grown in Marlborough’s Pinot Noir sweet is one of the best – thanks, at least in part, to the experienced and spot – the clay-loam-gravel soils of the Yarrum Vineyard on the thoughtful winemaker Allan Johnson. In very good vintages, usually Brancott/Ben Morven ridge in Marlborough’s Southern Valleys. Judd once every two years, a barrel selection is made to produce a wine for makes his wine at Dog Point , owned by colleagues James Healy their small batch Great Dogs series. In this case eight barrels were and Ivan Sutherland, also ex-employees of Cloudy Bay. This wine is the selected from a total of about 400. The blended wine had a 25% product of a fine vintage, sensitive viticulture and stellar winemaking. whole-cluster component for extra structure and complexity. MB Extremely expressive and aromatic with lots of depth and purity. MB A nose of real charm and elegance. Beautifully balanced palate The oak is marvellously balanced by the concentration of ripe, textural which is not jammy or lean and has a luscious concentration. A graceful fruit. The finish is very long and lingering. Excellent! grip on the finish, which exudes length and complexity.

CP Woody black cherry and autumnal aromas. The ripe, sweet fruit is CP Heavenly floral and coffee-bean aromas roll into candied peel and well balanced by crisp, juicy acidity, neatly framed by spicy oak. Long. ripe plum flavours. Full of power with tremendous complexity: vegetal, nutty and black-fruit driven. Very exciting. PT A lovely vegetal character on the nose is backed up by opulent fruits which imbue the palate with brightness. Impressive complex structure, PT Dazzling wild strawberries on the nose and palate: attractively succulent oak, sweet ripe fruits and a tantalising, spicy playfulness. poised and welcoming. Personable, authentic, charming and very long.

Drink 2016-2019 Alc 14% Drink 2016-2021 Alc 13.5% ➢

DECANTER • September 2016 | 79 Panel tasting

Outstanding (continued) 95–97pts

Mount Brown, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Pegasus Bay, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury 2014 95 MB 95 CP 95 PT 95 Canterbury 2013 95 MB 95 CP 95 PT 95 £15.95 Davy’s Wine Merchants £25 Bentley’s Wine Merchants, Caviste, Fortnum & Mason, Highbury Vintners, Lea & Mount Brown has been making wine from three vineyards for a decade. , New Zealand House of Wine, St Andrews Wine Co, The Vineking, Woodwinters Vineyard manager Andrew Florance believes the sites are among the The 2013 vinatge was a stress-free dream in Waipara with a mild spring, warmest in Waipara. The 2014 vintage was such a wet and challenging warm summer and lingering autumn. Pegasus Bay planted one-third of one that instead of making a regular label and the more exalted Grand its 47ha vineyard with Pinot Noir – with about 5% of the vines on their Reserve, the family owners elected to make two wines wines called Tier own rootstocks. By New Zealand standards the vineyard, planted 31 1 and Tier 2. Tier 1 developed so well in the bottle they changed their years ago, is relatively old, which contributes to the wines’ intensity and mind before release and re-christened it Grand Reserve while this consistency. About a dozen different Pinot Noir clones are planted. entry-level Pinot was previously the Tier 2. Mount Brown has gone from zero to hero in the past two vintages, offering excellent value. MB Plump, voluptuous and generous on the nose with mounds of crunchy red fruit. Nicely clean and fresh with an enchanting palate of MB Lifted and overt Pinot fruit that is highly perfumed without being sumptuous black plums and alluring rich spice. overripe. Very attractive with impressive concentration.

CP Fresh crunchy red cherry and berry on the nose and palate, CP A captivating, round, and silky style; the palate is broad, savoury interspersed with delightful savoury notes. Light but concentrated, and full of black fruit, with beguiling rose and ginger notes. The bright with real purity of fruit; juicy, elegant and refreshing. Very expressive. acidity and subtle oak give a charming balance. Long and satisfying. PT Vibrant and intriguing. A provocative mix of red fruit, delicate florals PT Animated and vibrant, with floral nuances backed by firm tannins. and spices. The structure is poised and graceful – a welcome Suave structure and poise, showcasing layers upon layers of intensity. factor which complements the brilliant fruit concentration.

Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14% Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14%

Schubert, Marions Vineyard, Martinborough 2013 95 MB 95 CP 95 PT 95 £28.95-£29.95 AC Gallie, Ellis Wines, Love Wine, New Zealand House of Wine, Vincognito Schubert makes two flagship Pinot Noir labels: the more structured Block B and this more approachable, but no less intense wine. It’s made Don’t miss Decanter’s flagship from just two Pinot Noir clones: the Pommard clone and so-called Abel clone which is rumoured to have been taken from Domaine de la Fine Wine Encounter Romanée-Conti’s La Tâche vineyard and is exclusive to New Zealand. Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th November From a top vintage and made with an eye on quality from vineyard to 2016, 11am to 5pm bottle, this wine is a true expression of vineyard. This November Decanter will host its biggest Decanter Fine MB Bewitching floral purity on the nose. Impressive depth of character Wine Encounter of the year. Regarded as the highlight of which is enchanced by well-managed oak that is beautifully integrated the tasting calendar, this event brings together the most with the silky tannins to give a fresh, elegant finish. respected Old World and New World producers from CP Café au lait notes are woven around cooked damson flavours, giving around the globe in the elegant surroundings of the a round, supple wine. The tannins are fleshy and gorgeously smooth. Landmark Hotel in London. With more than 100 of the PT Lusicously deep, mineral and attractive. A core fruit structure and world’s best wineries in attendance, this is a rare chance to superbly integrated oak tannins. Great attitude, confidence and poise. meet the winemakers and taste more than 600 fine wines all under one roof. Six top masterclasses are available. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14.5% Book tickets today – www.decanter.com/events or call +44 (0)20 3148 4513 New Zealand Pinot Noir

Highly Recommended 90–94pts

Wild South, Pinot Noir, Black Quail Estate, Pinot Noir, Wairau River, Reserve, Marlborough 2015 93 Bannockburn, Central Otago Marlborough 2014 92 MB 94 CP 93 PT 92 2013 92 MB 92 CP 92 PT 93 MB 89 CP 94 PT 94 £11.95-£15.95 Bancroft, Concept Fine Wines, £27.75 Goedhuis & Co £19 Ellis Wines, New Zealand House of Wine Hawkshead, Slurp, Simply Wines Direct, St Andrews Wine Initial jammy characters follow through onto purity on the palate with good fruit Co, The Art of Wine lots of spicy oak, ginger and cinnamon giving concentration. Lovely strawberry, blackberry Vibrant crushed raspberries, spice, cocoa, way to a buttery nuttiness that is complex and and leather notes that are light, crunchy and liquorice and Darjeeling tea. Driven by acidity charming. The balance is really quite seamless refreshing, underlined by wood shavings and and showing earthy, nutty flavours that lead with a wonderful juicy texture. Impressive. pine needles. Vanilla and cocoa on the long to a pretty finish. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13% Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5% finish. Drink 2016-2018 Drink 14%

Walnut Block, Nutcracker, Akarua, Pinot Noir, Mount Beautiful, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 92 Bannockburn, Central Otago Canterbury 2014 92 MB 92 CP 90 PT 95 2012 92 MB 90 CP 94 PT 92 MB 94 CP 92 PT 90 £20 Vintage Roots £27 Harvey Nichols, Oz Wines, The New Zealand House £13.50 Genesis Bright, opulent dark fruits supported by spice of Wine, Wright Wine Co, The Vineyard (Surrey) Alongside bright cherry notes, there is a and chocolate. Concentrated palate of walnut Attractive development on the nose. Unfolds compelling core of minerality that sits shell, leafy aromas and a ripe fruit core with to a plethora of summer pudding fruit flavours effortlessly on the palate. Pure, evocative light woodsmoke tones. Well-knit texture that and a touch of savoury gaminess. Smooth as Pinot character that is enticing and rich. Floral is long and fresh. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 14.5% chiffon. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14% and earthy finish. Drink 2016-2016 Alc 13.5%

Cloudy Bay, Pinot Noir, Folding Hill, Pinot Noir, Jackson Estate, Vintage Marlborough 2014 92 Bendigo, Central Otago 2014 Widow, Marlborougth 2013 91 MB 90 CP 91 PT 94 91 MB 90 CP 94 PT 90 MB 90 CP 94 PT 90 £26.95-£34 Drinkmonger, Harrods, Nickolls & £25 Amps Fine Wines, Hennings, Noel Young, Oxford £19.49 Christopher Piper, Inverarity Morton, Majestic, Perks, The Oxford Wine Co, Woodwinters Wine Co, Reserve Wines, The Butlers Cellar, The Sampler, Ocado Rich floral charm and compelling aromas of The Secret Cellar, Sheldon’s, Woodwinters Savoury and ripe strawberry aromas with cherry compote, toast and forest floor. Lots of Rich, ripe, spicy nose, summer pudding palate generous and attractive blackberry and cherry purity and concentration of spicy fruit on the and an almost exotic, intriguing sandalwood fruit that is floral, lively and very long. It is a mid-palate. A savoury herbal edge is chewy note. Understated with a lean profile but well- clean, pure, nicely balanced wine that is very and refreshing. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13.5% managed oak. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14.2% drinkable. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13.7%

Nanny Goat Vineyard, Pinot Pegasus Bay, Prima Donna Tindall Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Noir, Central Otago 2015 91 Pinot Noir, Waipara, Marlborough 2013 91 MB 93 CP 92 PT 89 Canterbury 2013 91 MB 95 CP 90 PT 89 £20 Waitrose MB 94 CP 90 PT 90 £16.29 Alexander Hadleigh, Christopher Piper, & Still young and tight but shows generous, £41 Field & Fawcett, Fortnum & Mason Hailsham Cellars, Bottle, Dorset Wine Co, Ex-Cellar, Rodney Densem, Rodney pure, ripe fruit aromas. Vivid forest fruit and Harvey Nichols Highbury Vintners, Woodwinters Fletcher, Roger Martin Wines, Sandhams Wine, Stainton floral flavours are intertwined with cumin and Reductive initially but then black fruit, herbs Wines, The Cheddar Vine, Shenfield Wine Co, Wine Buffs ginger notes. The supple, creamy tannins have and chocolate on the palate. Big-boned with Admirable silky texture, juicy black cherry fruit plenty of length and a structured finish. This hefty tannins, it is unforced; lots of charisma and violets backed by savoury herbs, spice will develop charm. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14% and richness here. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14% and a baked clay note. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13% ➢

DECANTER • September 2016 | 81 Panel tasting

Highly Recommended (continued) 90–94pts

Forrest, Pinot Noir, Invivo, Pinot Noir, Central Vidal, Reserve Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 91 Otago 2013 91 MB 93 CP 90 PT 90 Marlborough 2015 91 MB 89 CP 90 PT 94 MB 90 CP 94 PT 89 £15 Averys £13.85 James Nicholson, The Vineyard, McEntee’s Coffee, plum and slightly rubbery aromas £15-£17.15 Cambridge Wine Merchants, New Rich fruit tinged with cocoa and lavender, this developing harmoniously with savoury oak Zealand House of Wine wine is poised and cheerful. It has a slightly and sweet raspberry fruit that is settled and Attractive floral notes and vivid raspberry earthy nose underneath the pretty aromatics, poised. A vibrant acid core unfolds as it opens, aromas that are balanced by plenty of vanilla with delicate cranberries and cherries on a being decidedly firm on the finish. Exudes on the palate and fresh fruit patisserie charm. sweet-savoury palate, then hints of coffee on charisma. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14% It is light and pretty with good structure and the finish. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13.5% weight. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13.5%

Amisfield, Pinot Noir, Central Giesen, Small Batch Pinot Kusuda, Pinot Noir, Otago 2014 91 MB 90 CP 92 PT 90 Noir, Marlborough 2014 91 Martinborough 2014 91 MB 88 CP 90 PT 94 MB 90 CP 90 PT 92 £26 DBM Wines, Inverarity Morton Intriguing aromas of nuts, wet wood, dried red £19 Wines, Burdett Wines, Ehrmanns, Last £70 BI Wines, Farr Vintners, Slurp fruit and autumn leaves leading into a bright, Drop, Shenfield Wine Co, Wine Importers Edinburgh Light for this region but very seductive, with curious palate driven by fruit that draws you Lifted floral and citrus aromas. There is cocoa, blackberry and smoked almond aromas. back to the glass again and again. A fine cinnamon, cloves and coffee mingling with a Generous fruit palate with wonderful depth texture and freshness albeit slightly muted on bright juicy palate of raw red berries and enhanced by cherry and herbal notes, with a the fruit. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 14% length from acidity. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14% long, fresh finish. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13%

Palliser Estate, Pinot Noir, Rod Mcdonald, One Off Pinot Spy Valley, Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2014 91 MB 92 CP Noir, Martinborough 2014 91 Marlborough 2014 91 90 PT 90 MB 90 CP 92 PT 90 MB 94 CP 92 PT 86 £16.50 Justerini & Brooks £24-£26.50 Soho Wine Supply, Steevenson Wines £16 Fine Wine Co, Winedirect Strangely muted aromas but brightness and A nicely modest package of pretty, dark fruit A light, refreshing style that sees crunchy red juiciness unfold seductively across the palate aromatics leading through to the vanilla- cherry fruit, rhubarb and crushed raspberries to reveal oak spice framing a rush of fruit spiced palate, full of bright strawberry on the palate mixed with wet stones and cress concentration. This is big but restrained; very compote and ground almond flavours. This is leaves that leaves it juicy, fresh and long. A clean and precise, finishing long. Drink fresh, vibrant and charismatic, full of appeal slightly citric nose but wonderful acidity and 2016-2018 Alc 13.5% right to the end. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14% tannin structure. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5%

Valli, Bannockburn, Central Craggy Range, Te Muna Road Johner, Reserve Pinot Noir, Otago 2014 91 MB 90 CP 93 PT 89 Vineyard, Martinborough Gladstone, Wairarapa 2014 90 MB 91 CP 91 PT 89 £39-£46.50 AC Gallie, Love Wine, New Generation 2014 90 MB 88 CP 90 PT 93 McKinley £22.50 Bibendum PLB, Waitrose £29 ABS Wine Agencies, Spen Valley Wines Starting with a generous, fruit-forward nose, An intense mix of dark berry fruits, mince pies Reserved aromas but a delicious, pure fruit this leads to a palate of sweet, ripe raspberry and violets laced with liquorice and Sichuan palate of sophistication and concentration. and cherry fruit. The oak then dominates, but pepper. A little too much CO2 but it is balanced A savoury, inky wine, full of damson fruit and it is fresh and firm and should improve given by a fresh, crunchy weight and gingery pepper seasoned, quite aggressive oak. Muscular and its bold style. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5% notes on the finish. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13.8% juicy. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14.5%

82 | September 2016 • DECANTER New Zealand Pinot Noir

Highly Recommended (continued) 90–94pts

Mount Edward, Pinot Noir, Felton Road, Pinot Noir, Muddy Water, Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2013 90 Bannockburn, Central Otago Waipara, Canterbury 2013 90 MB 92 CP 88 PT 91 2013 90 MB 92 CP 89 PT 89 MB 90 CP 90 PT 90 £43.75 Alliance, Fine & Rare, Old Chapel Cellars, The £29-£30 Cornish Point, Fine Wines Direct, Highbury £22.95 Corney & Barrow Modern Pantry Vintners, Oxford Wine Co, The Secret Cellar, Woodwinters Rounded floral notes twinned with blackberry A little muted on the nose but very attractive Ever so slightly green on the nose, but it is a and pomegranate flavours, underlined by understated fruit on the mid-palate: damson fresh and lively style fuelled by plentiful fruits plenty of spice and backed by firm tannins. and heavily spiced oak that is rather chewy. flowing onto mocha notes. The spiky acidity is Balanced and soft without any hard edges; Floral notes dance playfully around the palate. mellowed by a juicy finish and backed by fine powerful and weighty right to the end. Drink Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14% tannins. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5% 2016-2021 Alc 14%

‘These aren’t fruit

Neudorf, Tom’s Block Pinot bombs – they are Babich, Winemakers’ Reserve Noir, Nelson 2013 90 sophisticated wines Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 MB 90 CP 89 PT 91 90 MB 86 CP 89 PT 94 £19-£25.95 Berry Bros Rudd, Carruthers & Kent, that will stand up £16 Bibendum PLB Highbury Vintners, Harvey Nichols, The New Zealand Glossy, smooth and expressive with dominant Cellar, Woodwinters really well to food’ oak but lots of ripe, sweet fresh fruit and spice. Delicate nose of ripe berry fruit, coffee and Christine Parkinson There is an attractive, generous Pinot florality liquorice. Enticing sweet and spicy fruit with with plenty of depth making it long and subtle oak. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13.5% concentrated. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14%

HMS Acheron, Pinot Noir, Johner, Pinot Noir, Gladstone, Mansion House Bay, Wairarapa 2013 90 MB 90 CP 91 PT 88 Wairarapa 2014 90 MB 90 CP 90 PT 89 Marlborough 2014 90 MB 92 CP 85 PT 92 £17.95 Great Western Wine £21 ABS Wine Agencies, Ex-Cellar, Spen Valley Wines, A broad dark palate of red fruit, sweet hay and The Secret Cellar, The Wine Reserve, Walkers Wines, £15.95 Great Western Wine truffle flavours folding into layers of tiramisu, Winearray A slight greenness on the nose that dissolves liquorice and ripe plums. Slightly oxidative but Creamy palate that is smooth textured with into opulent sweet fruit with lots of dark lots of refreshing acidity backed by fine- smoky red berry and citrus pith flavours toasty oak and a spicy, peppery complexity. grained tannins and a refined structure. Drink flowing into sweet raspberry and Lapsang Charming layers of savouriness, juicy fruit and 2016-2017 Alc 14% Souchong notes. Fresh acidity and chewy cocoa with length and balance to back it up. tannin structure. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14.5% Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14%

Mohua, Pinot Noir, Central Pisa Range, Black Poplar Otago 2014 90 MB 92 CP 88 PT 89 Block Pinot Noir, Central £15.95 Great Western Wine Otago 2014 90 MB 89 CP 90 PT 90 Opulent and rich with a wonderful array of £18 Charles Mitchell dark fruits and bright florals. Quite a dry, firm Spice and floral notes plus lots of purple fruit style but some lovely raw cherry fruit and wet aromas with wet leaves, bramble, mocha and Next month’s panel tastings fern characters underneath, along with subtle sandalwood flavours. A rich and boisterous Uco Valley and Sichuan pepper and liquorice. Drink 2016-2018 wine that’s just ripe enough with generous oak Coastal Chilean Pinot Noir Alc 13% that’s not drying. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14.5% ➢

DECANTER • September 2016 | 83 Panel tasting

Recommended 86–89pts Wine Score MB CP PT Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists Nobilo Icon, Pinot Noir, 89 90 90 88 A charismatic Pinot with black fruits and cherries that playfully tie in with 13.5% 2016- £15.14 Matthew Clark Marlborough 2014 good oak structure giving coffee and woodsmoke notes. 2017 Wild Earth, Bannockburn, Complex lavender and cherry compote nose with slight farmyard characters. 14.5% 2016- £23 Carruthers & Kent, Liberty Wines, Nickolls 89 90 89 89 & Perks, The Drink Shop, The Jolly Vintner, Central Otago 2012 Layers of spice, cocoa and minerality with sweet mid-palate fruit. 2018 Woodwinters Ceres, Composition, 89 89 86 92 Dark fruit and grainy texture with seductive savoury nuances and an acid core 14% 2016- £26 Catalyst Brands Bannockburn, Cen Otago 2012 that sits nicely with the fruit. Nicely risky with an impressive finish. 2017 Summerhouse, Pinot Noir, Lovely purity of Pinot fruit here, slightly reduced but bright and charismatic 13% 2016- £18 Enotria & Coe, Great Wine Online, House of 89 86 91 90 Townend, Last Drop Wines, Mr & Mrs Fine Marlborough 2014 with red berries and new suede aromas and attractive earthy, savoury notes. 2018 Wine, Wine Utopia Wairau River, Pinot Noir, 89 90 89 88 Savoury aromas which open up to a delicate expressive wine with pretty fruit 14% 2016- £17 Ellis Wines, New Zealand House of Wine Marlborough 2014 and a distinct earthiness that is fresh on the palate. 2018 Mt Difficulty, Target Gully, 89 87 89 90 Evolved, slightly reductive notes on the nose and palate. A refreshing and 14% 2016- £69.80 Ellis Wines, Hedonism Bannockburn, Cen Otago 2010 interesting wine underneath that is maturing nicely over the grainy tannins. 2017 Paddy Borthwick, Pinot Noir, 89 88 88 90 Serious, broad and muscular with generous Christmas cake, cherry and 14.5% 2016- £16-£17 Armit, Cambridge Wine Merchants Wairarapa 2014 loganberry characters. Lots of sweet fruit but the savouriness is appreciated. 2018 Spy Valley, Envoy Outpost, 89 89 87 90 There are sweet buttery notes from the dominant oak but it is softened by big 13.5% 2016- £23 Fine Wine Co, Wine Direct Omaka, Marlborough 2012 Morello cherry flavours and real Pinot florality. 2018 Two Rivers, Altitude, A fine aromatic complexity of spicy cherry compote that leads into fresh 13.5% 2016- £30 Field & Fawcett, Old Butcher’s , 89 86 89 91 Satchels of Burnham Market, The Wine Marlborough 2014 straw, cinnamon and sweet, ripe red fruit on the palate. 2018 Library, Woodbridge Wines Catalina Sounds, Pinot Noir, Red fruit and liquorice twinned with subtle underlying savoury bramble notes 13% 2016- £14 Noel Young, Hangingditch, Wines of 88 88 91 86 Interest, Wine Unearthed Marlborough 2015 gives a sense of purity, structure and poise to this beautifully ripe wine. 2018 Craggy Range, Aroha, 88 89 90 86 Violets and black tea leaf nose with slightly baked sweet fruit on the palate in 13.5% 2016- £55 Bibendum PLB Martinborough 2014 a somewhat prosaic format. Fruit cake, high-acid and chalky tannins. 2017 Grasshopper Rock, 88 88 89 88 Enticing floral aromas and flavours with notes of sage and parsely, making for 13.4% 2016- £20 Naked Wines Earnscleugh, Cen Otago 2014 an appealing sweet ’n’ sour nuance, along with a pure mineral core. 2017 Nautilus, Pinot Noir, A lot of black forest gateau characters stand out in this wine – chocolate, 14% 2016- £18- AC Gallie, Christopher Piper, Love Wine, 88 92 85 88 The New Zealand Cellar Marlborough 2013 cherry, cream – enveloped by spice and pungent woodsmoke notes. 2017 £20.75 Villa Maria, Cellar Selection Aromatic purity: a vibrant and juicy style and a solid black cherry core, 13.5% 2016- £16.05 Asda, Bargain Booze, Booths, Ellie’s, Fenwick, 88 86 90 89 Hailsham, Islington Wine, Majestic, NZ House Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 framed by vanilla oak and interwoven with herbs and earthy notes. 2018 of Wine, Sainsburys, Waitrose, Wells Wines Cloudy Bay, Te Wahi, Central 88 86 89 89 Some floral charm with a soft, silky texture and an intense core of damson 14.3% 2016- £65 Jeroboams, Whole Foods Otago 2014 and cherry, even though oak dominates slightly. 2017 Delta, Pinot Noir, 88 89 86 89 Mocha and toast aromas unfold into dominant oak and intense fruit. This is 13.5% 2016- £17 Liberty Wines, Nickolls & Perks, Oz Wines Marlborough 2014 bright and persuasive with a pleasing, enticing complexity. 2019 Pounamu, Special Selection 88 85 95 84 An appetising, juicy, fruit-forward style with richness in the red berry fruit, 13.5% 2016- £18 Vinultra Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 walnuts and cut grass on the palate. Vanilla oak offers a refreshing structure. 2020 Rockburn, Rockburn Pinot Charmingly understated pure Pinot notes. Cherries and strawberries spiced 14% 2016- £25 Bedales, Askew Wine, NZ House of Wine, 88 85 89 90 Woodbridge Wine Noir, Central Otago 2013 with cloves, aniseed and florals – unforced, with a charred tobacco oak note. 2019 The Long Trek, Pinot Noir, 88 89 88 87 Bonfire and wet chalk aromas – the palate has an autumnal, savoury 13.5% 2016- £17.95 The Vintner Central Otago 2011 character. This is ageing delicately in a style of simple elegance. 2017 Allan Scott, Scott Base Pinot 88 86 88 89 A supple, glossy, slow-and-steady Pinot with forest-floor characters backed 13% 2016- £17 Fine Wines Direct Noir , Central Otago 2014 by leather, cedar and herbs along with personable red fruits. 2016 Ata Rangi, Crimson Pinot Classically clean and pure, there is fresh citrus, honey and ginger on the nose, 14% 2016- £21.95- widely available via UK agent Liberty 88 84 90 89 Wines Noir, Martinborough 2014 with orange zest and damson on the palate. 2017 £23 Babich, Pinot Noir, 88 89 85 89 Red berry and bay leaf aromas open onto crushed wild strawberry fruit on the 13.5% 2016- £14 Bibendum PLB Marlborough 2015 palate. Very delicate and clean. 2018 Clos Henri, Petit Clos Pinot Earthy, complex and enticing characters of tea leaf, fresh raspberry and dark 13.5% 2016- £14 Bijou Bottles, Bottle Apostle, Fulham Wine 88 85 88 90 Rooms, Les Caves de Pyrène, The New Noir, Marlborough 2015 plum. Simple but balanced and long with a rose petal finish. 2019 Zealand Cellar Fromm, Clayvin, Brancott 88 90 88 85 A subtle wine that is crisp and juicy, with smoothness that gives refinement 13.5% 2016- £30-£32 The New Zealand Cellar, The Wine Co Valley, Marlborough 2014 and elegance. Plenty of structure and appeal. 2017 Jules Taylor, Pinot Noir, This starts well with pretty aromas of raspberry and violets that are bright 14% 2016- £19.95 Four Walls Wines, Huntsworth Wine Co, 88 89 86 88 Noel Young, Raffles Fine Wines, The Marlborough 2014 and charming, coupled with concentrated ripe fruits on the palate. 2018 Haslemere Cellar, Vagabond Kalex, Alex K Pinot Noir, 88 89 89 85 Woodsmoke and vanilla wrapped around simple red fruits of freshness and 14% 2016- £16 The New Zealand Cellar Central Otago 2015 vibrancy. Starts emphatically fruity, then layers of fine tannin take over. 2019 Tinpot Hut, Pinot Noir, A bright, cheerful wine that is simple and pleasant with vivid strawberry and 13.5% 2016- £14.25- Askew, Carruthers & Kent, Cork of North, 88 89 86 88 Drinkmonger, Hawkshead, Reserve, Slurp, Marlborough 2014 coffee complexity, giving a pureness that is welcome and poised. 2019 £15 The NZ House of Wine, Villeneuve Wines Two Paddocks, First Paddock, Raw berry fruit, wild mushroom and forest floor on the palate which unfolds 13% 2016- £39-£50 AC Gallie, Corks Out, Hennings Wine, 88 90 87 86 KWM, Love Wine, Reserve Wines, Gibbston, Central Otago 2013 explosively with leather and leafiness. Refreshing and rather chewy. 2017 Selfridges Domaine-Thomson, Surveyor Some developed mocha aromas. A savoury, meaty, evolved character with a 13.5% 2016- £29.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, The New Zealand 87 86 86 90 Cellar Thomson, Central Otago 2011 silky tannin structure that enhances the experience of this wine. 2017 Hãhã, Pinot Noir, 87 89 89 84 A floral style that is developing earthy, slightly reduced notes with underlying 13.5% 2016- £20.83 Dago Wines, VinumTerra Marlborough 2014 spicy, savoury flavours. The black fruit is juicy with a green rhubarb edge. 2016 Maude, Mount Maude Reserve, Jasmine, wood ash and wild mushroom aromas; a little reductive. There’s 14% 2016- £29 D Byrne & Co, The Hitchin Wine Co, 87 89 85 88 Vagabond Wines Central Otago 2012 sweetness on the palate from dark cherry fruits and a lovely intensity. 2017

84 | September 2016 • DECANTER New Zealand Pinot Noir

Recommended (continued) 86–89pts Wine Score MB CP PT Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists

Peregrine, Pinot Noir, New Fresh black fruit with a minty note and pleasant peppery character. Hints of 13.5% 2016- £22 Carruthers & Kent, Great Western Wine, 87 88 86 88 Woodwinters Zealand 2013 wild flowers floating across the palate. Perhaps a little raw on the finish. 2016 Saint Clair, Pioneer B14 Ripe fruit, chocolate and liquorice come through on the palate with oodles of 13.5% 2016- £20 Majestic, NZ House of Wine, Great Wines 87 89 85 88 Direct, Hailsham Wine Cellars, Cheers Doctor’s Ck, Marlborough 2014 character and underlying smokiness and spice. 2018 Wine Store, Noel Young, The Wine Man The Crossings, Awatere Valley, 87 88 89 85 A lively palate of black cherries, wet earth and leathery oak aromas. Bright 13.5% 2016- £11 Booths Marlborough 2014 fruits capture the spirit of this wine, and minerality brings it to life. 2018 Two Paddocks, Pinot Noir, Smoky, wet leaf aromas lead to bright, ripe strawberry on the palate. Slightly 13% 2016- £33-£36 AC Gallie, Corks Out, Hennings Wine, 87 85 89 88 Highbury Vintners, Love Wine, Reserve Central Otago 2013 oxidative with nice oak definition and some development on the nose. 2021 Wines, Selfridges Astrolabe, Province, 87 87 85 89 A very accessible wine with a pretty floral nose and red berry compote, 14% 2016- £20 Ellis Wines, New Zealand House of Wine Marlborough 2014 cinnamon and ginger spices on the palate. Clean, pure and integrated oak. 2018 Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir, A little shy on the nose but it is evolved with savoury, mushroom notes. 14% 2016- £44-£50 Caruthers & Kent, Clos & Cru, Farr, Hailsham, 87 86 86 89 Highbury, Majestic, The NZ Cellar, Wine Martinborough 2014 Rather angular tannins but there is marked acidity to lift. 2017 Bear, Wright Wine, Woodwinters Bell Hill,, Canterbury 2013 A touch of reduction on the nose is pushed out by a palate of creaminess and 13% 2016- £86.25 Armit Wines, H2Vin, Lay & Wheeler, The 87 86 89 86 New Zealand Cellar toast. Slightly grainy tannins but good concentration of evolving flavour. 2019 Black Estate, Home, Waipara, 87 90 85 86 Earthy, smoky aromas with slight greenness on the palate. A subtle elegance 13.5% 2016- £28.50 The New Zealand Cellar Canterbury 2013 in the mix of violets and mushroom flavours. Marked acidity on a mineral core. 2017 Kalex, Pinot Noir, Central 87 85 86 90 A pleasing, rather confected nose and slight astringency on the palate. Subtle 14% 2016- £32 The New Zealand Cellar Otago 2014 but attractive with fine grip, though a little short. 2018 Mt Difficulty, Long Gully, 87 85 88 88 Spicy, dark-flavoured wine with a powerful, developed nose that doesn’t 14% 2016- £67.30 Ellis Wines, Hedonism Bannockburn, Cen Otago 2010 quite convey to the palate. Generous black fruit, liquorice and treacle. 2017 Mud House, Claim 431 Pinot 87 88 88 85 Quintessentially Central Otago: leather, cream and spice harmonising with 13.5% 2016- £25 Majestic Noir, Central Otago 2014 black fruit and mushrooms. Slightly austere on the finish but big flavours. 2019 Muddy Water, Hare’s Breath, 87 83 88 90 Generous floral, slightly citrus nose. Weighty and substantial oak and evident 14.5% 2016- £32.50 Corney & Barrow Waipara, Canterbury 2011 alcohol are kept fresh by bright acidity, blackberry fruit and sweet spice. 2018 Paddy Borthwick, Paper Road 87 84 89 88 Complex truffle and wet earth aromas leading to berry compote notes, then a 14.8% 2016- £15-£16 Armit, Cambridge Wine Merchants Pinot Noir, Wairarapa 2014 deeply savoury but slightly disjointed smoked ham and redcurrant palate. 2017 Sacred Hill, Pinot Noir, 87 89 88 84 Charming vibrancy on the palate with notes of black fruit compote. 13% 2016- POA Kingsland Marlborough 2015 Concentrated fruit and stewed plum aromas: simple with some elegance. 2020 Schubert, Block B, Stewed damson, lots of vanilla, rhubarb and custard flavours and aromas. 14.5% 2016- £35-£37 AC Gallie, Ellis Wines, Four Walls Wine, 87 85 85 91 Love Wine, New Zealand House of Wines, Martinborough 2014 Nicely plump on the mid-palate with a sweet ’n’ sour nuance. 2017 Wine Utopia, Vin Cognito Soho, McQueen, Central Otago 87 88 89 84 Dark, brooding Pinot with spicy fruit character and liquorice and coffee 14% 2016- £23 Soho Wine Supply 2014 framing raw blackberry fruit. A little reduced but gently grippy. 2016 Waimea, Pinot Noir, Nelson 87 85 87 89 Fresh, opulent floral aromas with smoky, meaty oak flavours that are both 13.5% 2016- £13 Majestic 2014 clean and attractive, with a firmness to aid development . 2016 Waipara Springs, Pinot Noir, Delicate and refreshing, albeit slightly light. Compelling savoury palate 13% 2016- £13.95 Frontier Fine Wines, Great Grog, Martinez, 87 86 87 88 Vineking, Dunells, Cheddar Vine, South Waipara, Canterbury 2014 enveloped in crunchy red fruit. Finishing with bitter almond and some grip. 2018 Down Cellars Black Estate, Damsteep, 87 85 90 85 A compact, tasty palate with flashes of woodsmoke and dark fruit. Well 13.5% 2016- £28.50 The New Zealand Cellar Waipara, Canterbury 2013 supported by attractive tannins that could be slightly light and lean. 2019 Domaine Rewa, Pinot Noir, Slightly medicinal character on the nose but still a soft, ripe, juicy style. Some 14% 2016- £33 H2Vin, New Street Wine Shop, The New 87 83 88 89 Zealand Cellar Central Otago 2013 clean floral fruit on the mid-palate although a tannic finish. 2019 Hunter'S, Pinot Noir, 87 88 88 84 A flamboyant, floral nose teamed with seductive raspberry, liquorice, coffee 13.5% 2016- £14.95 Jeroboams, Laithwaites Marlborough 2012 and more red berry flavours and crunchy limey fruit to lift. 2018 Seifried, Aotea Pinot Noir, 87 85 86 89 This is muscular, fruity and zesty, with juiciness on the palate. Attractive rich 14% 2016- £23 Vintage Marque Nelson 2014 Pinot fruit and plenty of oak spice that is clean and crunchy. 2016 Sileni, Plateau Pinot Noir, Quite a plump, rich style that has the depth to develop well. Opulent, zesty 13.5% 2016- £14-£15 D Byrne & Co, The Rare & Fine Wine Co, 87 89 84 87 The Vineking, Nickolls & Perks Hawke's Bay 2015 fruits on the nose, lending a real approachability to the wine. 2018 The Cloud Factory, Pinot Noir, Burgundian in style with an underlying savoury touch and minerality. A 13% 2016- £11-£12 Blacker Hall, D Byrne & Co, Hawkshead, 87 90 84 86 Highbury Vintners, Italian Continental Marlborough 2014 reductive note but layered with fresh dark fruit, spice and floral aromatics. 2017 Stores, Slurp, The Blue Glass, Woodwinters Wooing Tree, Pinot Noir, Restrained sweet hay and coriander seed notes and grippy, slightly drying 13.5% 2016- £29.95 Carruthers & Kent, Frontier Fine Wines, 87 89 87 84 Wine Utopia, Drink Shop, Gerrard Seel Central Otago 2013 tannins. Raspberry and cherry notes finish spicy and slightly warm. 2018 Gladstone, Pinot Noir, A fragrant wine with black tea, cherry stone, strawberry, pepper and truffle 13.5% 2016- £18 Far Flung Wine Co, The Tasting Room, 86 84 89 86 York Wines Gladstone, Wairarapa 2013 nuances albeit with a farmyard edge. Serious tannins lifted by fresh juiciness. 2017 Seresin, Leah, Marlborough Slightly reduced on the nose but well-structured with marked acidity and grip 13.5% 2016- £21 The New Zealand Cellar, Wholefoods, 86 85 85 89 Harvey Nichols, Loki, Park & Bridge, Planet 2014 on the finish. Pleasant florality with sawdust and raspberry compote notes. 2020 of the Grapes, Wine Utopia Soho, Havana, Marlborough 86 87 86 86 Lovely crunchy and fresh red fruits with a spicy blackberry perfume – clean 13.5% 2016- £18 Soho Wine Supply 2015 and pure. A lot of dark oak but the depth of fruit remains poised. 2018 Two Rivers, Tributary, Vibrant fruity rose petal perfume twinned with a fresh, sappy and juicy palate 13.5% 2016- £20 Corks Out, Lockett Bros, Spirited Wines, 86 85 85 89 Tokes Food & Drink, Woodbridge Wines Marlborough 2015 that has a ripe rhubarb and spice elements. 2018 Eradus, Pinot Noir, Awatere 86 90 88 80 Playfully Pinot in character, with developing aromas of spice and herbs and 14% 2016- £14.95 Corney & Barrow Valley, Marlborough 2014 tobacco, candied plum and earthy flavours. A complete package. 2019 Prophet’s Rock, Rocky Point, 86 88 87 83 Aromatics fuelled by roses and violets with a certain purity and definition. 13.5% 2016- £18 Christopher Kellier Bendigo, Central Otago 2014 Simple and earthy with walnut shell and prune notes. 2017 ➢

DECANTER • September 2016 | 85 Panel tasting

Recommended (continued) 86–89pts Wine Score MB CP PT Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists Quartz Reef, Pinot Noir, 86 89 86 83 Big boned, ripe dark fruits coupled with an earthiness that is quite appealing. 14% 2016- £21 Majestic Bendigo, Central Otago 2014 A little clumsy but generous and commanding with a silky tannin structure. 2016 Rock Ferry Wines, Pinot Noir, 86 85 86 87 A juicy, fruity, rather compact style. Damson and black pepper gives way to a 13.5% 2016- £30 Far Flung Wine Co Central Otago 2012 lively acid core, however there’s a slightly pinched finish. 2017 Villa Maria, Single Vineyard Pure floral aromas emerge under the bark and leafy character of the palate. 13.5% 2016- £28.20 Hailsham, Hennings, Islington Wine, The 86 85 83 90 New Zealand House of Wine, The Wine Seddon, Marlborough 2011 This is beautifully balanced and not at all forced. 2017 Reserve, Victor Hugo, Villages Wines Waipara Springs, Premo, A savoury wine – more farmyard than fruit orchard – but the forest-floor and 14% 2016- £16.49 Frontier Fine Wines, Waples Wines, 86 86 85 87 Village Vine, Martinez, Stone Vine & Sun, Waipara, Canterbury 2012 spice palate is intriguing. Good tannin structure. 2016 Wines of Interest Zephyr, Pinot Noir, 86 83 86 89 Smoky, toasty oak shines through the black fruits with lots of sweet berries, 13% 2016- £12.95 Alliance Wine Marlborough 2014 liquorice and tar. Violet and spice notes add intrigue. 2021 Akarua, Rua Pinot Noir, Savoury and sweet style with lots of just ripe fruit character. Bright zip of oak 14% 2016- £20 Oz Wines, The New Zealand House of 86 85 88 84 Wine, Wine Utopia Central Otago 2014 spice and just a touch of warmth on the very long finish. 2020 Bell Hill, Old Weka Pass Road, Very ripe nose but the fruit is slightly baked. Decent concentration and quite 13% 2016- £55- Armit Wines, H2Vin, Highbury Vintners, 86 83 82 92 Lay & Wheeler, The NZ Wine Cellar Canterbury 2013 fresh on the palate, but challenging oak shows through juicy acidity. 2020 £57.25 Carrick, Unravelled Pinot 86 84 86 87 Dark fruit with a bitter and peppery watercress note, followed by sweet oak 14% 2016- £15.95 Great Western Wine Noir, Central Otago 2014 and a nutty character. Rather chewy tannins mute the personality of the fruit. 2017 Invivo, Michelle's Pinot Noir, 86 84 83 90 Generously floral and aromatic – a spicy, bold style. Full of wood shavings 14.5% 2016- £18 Averys Central Otago 2014 and sweet gingery spice with very evident oak masking the fruit. 2017 Jules Taylor, OTQ Series Pinot Simple Marlborough Pinot that is pleasant and pleasing. Evocative perfume of 13% 2016- £19.95– Four Walls Wines, Haslemere Cellar, 86 85 86 86 Huntsworth Wine Co, Noel Young, Raffles Noir, Marlborough 2013 summer pudding and rose with a soft, plump and sweet raisined palate. 2018 £29.95 Fine Wines, Vagabond Mokoblack, Pinot Noir, Soft fruit twinned with oak that sweeps across the palate, which is long and 13% 2016- £11 Noel Young, Priory Wines, Tiny’s Tipples, 86 85 88 84 Whole Foods Market, Woodwinters Marlborough 2014 supple with flavours of coffee and loganberries. 2018 Pask, Kate Radburnd, 86 83 89 85 Charred spicy oak notes on the nose. The vibrant palate shows some lifted, 14% 2016- £11.95 Merchant Vintners Martinborough 2014 balsamic notes along with layers of black cherry and damson. 2021 The Edge, Pinot Noir, Explosion in a glass of wonderful Pinot characters – the pure red fruit is broad 14% 2016- £13.49 Booths, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Cellar 86 89 83 85 28, The Oxford Wine Co, Waitrose Martinborough 2014 and generous. Perhaps slightly jammy, but still plenty of depth here. 2017

Commended 83-85pts £35 Amps Fine Wines, Hennings Wine Merchants, Noel Marlborough 2014 84, 13.5%, 2016-2016, £17.50 n Auntsfield, Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Southern Young, Oxford Wine Co, Reserve Wines, The Butlers Cellar, Caviste, & Chateaux, Inverarity Morton, Must Valleys, Marlborough 2013 85, 14.5%, 2016-2018, The Sampler, The Secret Cellar, Sheldon’s n Harwood Wines, Rodney Densen n Te Whare Ra, TWR Pinot £18.50 Cadman Fine Wines, Kingsgate Wines, The Oxford Hall, Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2012 85, 13.5%, Noir, Renwick & Omaka Valley, Marlborough 2014 Wine Co, The Somerset Wine Co, Woods Wines n 2016-2019, £23 Top Selection, Zefino n Stanley Estates, 84, 13.8%, 2016-2019, £31.50 Hawkshead, SH Jones, Slurp, Cambridge Road, Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2011 Pinot Noir, Awatere Valley, Marlborough 2013 85, Swig n Corofin, Settlement Vineyard, Omaka, 85, 13%, 2016-2021, £41.49 Les Caves de Pyrène, Highbury 13.5%, 2016-2019, £19.49 Frontier Fine Wines, Murcatto Marlborough 2014 83, 13%, 2016-2017, £33 Stannary St Vintners, The Good Wine Shop, Toasted n Domaine- Wines, Baythorne Hall, Wine Utopia, Wine Co Wine Co n Drylands, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 Thomson, Explorer, Central Otago 2013 85, 13.5%, n Yealands Estate, Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, 83, 14%, 2016-2019, £12.95 Matthew Clark n Escarpment, 2016-2019, £21.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, The New Zealand Awatere Valley, Malborough 2014 85, 14%, 2016- Kupe, Martinborough 2014 83, 14%, 2016-2020, Cellar n Kim Crawford, Pinot Noir, South Island 2019, £14.95 Carruthers & Kent, Enotria & Coe, Great £29.95 Frontier Fine n Wines, Field & Fawcett, Fine & Rare, 2014 85, 13%, 2016-2016 £14.99 Askew Wines, Carruthers Western Wine n Allan Scott, Hounds Pinot Noir, Hailsham Cellars, Oxford Wine Co, Tanners, Vin Neuf & Kent, Eton Vintners, Noel Young, The New Zealand House Marlborough 2013 84, 13%, 2016-2018, £16.99 Fine n Porters, Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2013 83, of Wine, The Secret Cellar n Mahana, Pinot Noir, Wines Direct n Anchorage, Reserve Pinot Noir, 13.5%, 2016-2017, £29.50 The New Zealand Cellar Nelson 2013 85, 13.5%, 2016-2018, £22.99 Bedales Nelson 2014 84, 13%, 2016-2020, £15.98 Peter Watts n Staete Landt, State of Grace Pinot Noir, Rapaura, n Valli, Gibbston, Central Otago 2014 85, 13.5%, n Coopers Creek, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 Marlborough 2014 83, 13.5%, 2016-2018, £19.95 2016-2020, £46.50 New Generation McKinley n Blank 84, 14%, 2016-2019, £14.25 Slurp n Kim Crawford, Thorman Hunt, Woodwinters n Clos Henri, Pinot Noir, Canvas, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 85, 13%, Rise & Shine Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2014 84, Marlborough 2013 83, 13.5%, 2016-2019, £26.99 Bijou 2016-2018, £24.99 Oz Wines, Liberty Wines n Burn 13.5%, 2016-2021, POA Liberty Wines n Little Beauty, Bottles, Bottle Apostle, Wine Rooms, Les Caves de Pyrène, Cottage, Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2014 85, 13.6%, Black Edition Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 84, The New Zealand Cellar n Waimea, Spinyback, Nelson 2016-2017, £39.99 Vincognito, Liberty Wines n 14%, 2016-2017, £29.99 Davy’s Wine Merchants, l’Art du 2014 83, 13.5%, 2016-2018, £11.99 North & South Wines Escarpment, Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2013 85, Vin, Dunells Premier Wines, Direct Wine Shipments, Bay n Corofin, Cowley Family Vineyard, Ben Morven, 13.5%, 2016-2017, £19.95 Frontier Fine Wines, Tanners, Cru Tree Wine Co n Seifried, Pinot Noir, Nelson 2014 84, Marlborough 2014 83, 13%, 2016-2018, £33 Stannary St London, Oxford Wine Co, Martinez, Great Grog, D Byrne 14%, 2016-2017, £15.49 Inverarity Morton, Lewis & Cooper, Wine Co n Framingham, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 85, Marks & Spencers, Vintage Marque n Sileni, Cellar 13.5%, 2016-2016, £14.99 Les Caves de Pyrène n Selection Pinot Noir, Hawke’s Bay 2015 84, 13.5%, Fair 76-82pts Gladstone, Jealous Sisters Pinot Noir 2014 85, 14%, 2016-2017, £9.99-£10.99 Highbury Vintners, Nickolls & n Delta, Hatter’s Hill Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2016-2018, £11.99-£12.99 Aitken Wines, Cork & Cases, ND Perks, Taurus Wines, The Rare & Fine Wine Co, Nickolls & 2012 82 n Sacred Hill, Reserve Pinot Noir, John, Noel Youg n Mount Edward, Morrison, Central Perks n Burn Cottage, Moonlight Rage, Central Marlborough 2014 82 n Rapaura Springs, Reserve Otago 2011 85, 13.5%, 2016-2017, £24.90 Alliance Wine Otago 2014 84, 13.5%, 2016-2021, £34.99 Harvey Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 81 n Nga Waka, n Prophet’s Rock, Home Vineyard Pinot Noir, Nichols, The New Zealand House of Wine, The Secret Cellar Lease Block Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2013 81 Bendigo, Central Otago 2013 85, 13.5%, 2016-2018, n Fromm, La Strada Pinot Noir, Marlborough n Opawa, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 81 £28 All About Wine n Seresin, Rachel, Marlborough 2014 84, 13.5%, 2016-2017, £18.99-£20.99 Bin Two, D. n Trinity Hill, Pinot Noir, Hawkes Bay 2014 80 2012 85, 13%, 2016-2018, £27.99 The New Zealand Cellar, Byrne & Co, Planet of the Grapes, The New Zealand Cellar, n Blind River, Pinot Noir, Awatere Valley, Wine Utopia, Wholefoods, Highbury Vintners, DVine Wine World n Neudorf, Moutere Pinot Noir, Nelson Marlborough 2014 80 n Bascand, Pinot Noir, Cellars, Field & Fawcett, Salut Wines, Planet of the Grapes 2013 84, 14%, 2016-2020, £35 Berry Bros & Rudd, Marlborough 2014 79 n Rapaura Springs, Pinot n Sherwood Estate, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Highbury Vintners, Harvey Nicholls, The New Zealand Noir, Marlborough 2014 79 n Ward Valley Estate, Canterbury 2014 85, 13%, 2016-2018, £12.87 Alliance Cellar, Woodwinters n Brancott Estate, Series Mount Victoria Block Pinot Noir, Marlborough Wine n Yealands Estate, Winemaker’s Reserve, Pinot Noir, Awatere Valley, Marlborough 2014 84 2014 78 n Tiki, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 77 Gibbston, Central Otago 2014 85, 14%, 2016-2017, 14%, 2016-2019, £14.55 Ocado, Tesco Wine Online n Dog £17.50 Enotria & Coe, Great Western Wine n Brancott Point, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2014 84, 14%, 2016- Poor 70-75pts Estate, Letter Series T Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2017, £20-£30 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Carruthers & n Churton, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 75 2015 85, 14.1%, 2016-2016, £16.45 Ocado, Tesco Wine Kent, Harvey Nicholls, Highbury Vintners, The Good Wine n Gem, Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2011 75 Online n Folding Hill, Orchard Block Pinot Noir, Shop, The Sampler, The Wine Society, Uncorked, Vinest, Bendigo, Central Otago 2013 85, 14.2%, 2016-2019, Woodwinters n Lawson’s Dry Hills, Reserve, For full UK stockist details, see p103

86 | September 2016 • DECANTER New Zealand Pinot Noir

My top three My top three My top three Melanie Brown Christine Parkinson Phillip Tuck MW n Pegasus Bay, Pinot Noir, Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, n Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, Waipara, Canterbury 2013 Bright Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 An Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 and vibrant with ample structure and intensely perfumed, succulent wine. The A mightily impressive and complex Pinot poise. Layers of fruit intensity and oak distinctly silky texture is a hallmark of this in an admirably understated, fresh and integration. An acid backbone supports sub-region. This wine is really building on vivid cool-climate style. Generous minerality and gentle savoury notes. the quality it has shown from the start. 96 without being rich, and stylish without Pinot Perfection. 95 Drink 2016-2018 Drink 2016-2018 being showy. I was underwhelmed by many examples from Central Otago but n Mount Edward, Pinot Noir, Greywacke, Southern Valleys, this wine shone. 96 Drink 2016-2018 Central Otago 2013 Wonderful Marlborough 2013 Winemaker Kevin richness and appeal; Pinot purity at its Judd believes the Greywacke soils give n Palliser Estate, Great Hector best. Defined florals dance on the palate character and minerality to his wines. This Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2013 supported by good fruit weight, and one certainly has an elegant texture and I’ve admirered Palliser since my first visit intriguing texture that leads to a generous savoury, almost earthy edge to the ripe to them in 1993 and this is a fine example length. 91 Drink 2016-2017 cherry fruit. 95 Drink 2016-2019 of the standards it aspired to back then and that it has clearly achieved in its n Seresin, Rachel, Marlborough Kusuda, Pinot Noir, wines today. 95 Drink 2016-2021 2012 Sadly not on form here, but usually Martinborough 2014 Vibrant and a powerful and complex wine, showing charming with very pure fruit and well n Giesen, Clayvin Single Vineyard crushed berry fruits, herbal aromatics and calibrated oak. Hiro Kusuda is one of the Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 fine-grained tannins. Charismatic and most meticulous producers, and his Although these three brothers are more rich, it captures the essence of attention to detail has created a wine that renowned for their cool-climate , Marlborough. 86 Drink 2016-2018 is vivid yet delicate. 90 Drink 2016-2018 this is a beautifully pure, balanced Pinot. There is nothing forced or heavy, such is the freshness of acidity and beautifully NB: the tasters’ top wines are not necessarily their top-scoring, rather those which, on learning rounded tannins. 95 Drink 2016-2018 the wines’ identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors Expert summary: Bob Campbell MW The diversity of New Zealand Pinot Noir shone through, with elegant and robust, accessible and structured wines all scoring highly from both 2013 and 2014

Judging New Zealand Pinot Noir from half a dozen Mount Brown as well as the more robust (and in my view different regions and as many different vintages poses a pleasingly rustic) Pegasus Bay with many shades in similar challenge to judging various breeds, ages and between. Contrast Lowburn Ferry’s accessible Home sexes of dogs at Crufts. It seems impossibly complex, Block with Giesen’s more structured Clayvin and the but both involve using an established set of criteria as an judges get full marks from me for being open minded objective measure. In the case of wine, judges look for and endorsing top wines in a number of different styles. flavour intensity or power, complexity, balance and Their selection clearly demonstrates the diversity of length of flavour. They consider texture as well as New Zealand Pinot Noir. flavour profile and other factors to help them arrive at a Inevitably with such a big class of wines, there were a score and allow them to describe each wine’s character. few surprises. Some of my favourites that earned an The list of top wines can often reveal any suggestion admittedly respectable Recommended status include Bob Campbell MW is the of stylistic bias. Do the judges favour youthful or mature the excellent Ata Rangi 2014, the Burgundy lookalike Decanter World Wine wines? Is there a dominant vintage or region? Do Bell Hill 2013, Craggy Range’s Aroha 2014 and one of Awards Regional Chair blockbuster wines get the tick or is elegance preferred? Central Otago’s best buys, Grasshopper Rock’s 2014. for New Zealand In this Decanter panel tasting I thought the seven I was even more shocked to see that the stylish Burn Outstanding wines showed no particular bias except Cottage 2014, fruit-focused Dog Point 2014 and perhaps that five were from the generally excellent 2013 Escarpment’s powerful Kupe 2014 had been rated a vintage, despite the fact that 2014 appears to have relatively modest Commended. It’s tough at the top! D dominated total entries. I think the judges got it right in terms of vintage endorsement. Wines from four different regions were rated Outstanding: Marlborough, ‘The judges get full marks for Martinborough and Canterbury had two wines each endorsing top wines in a number while Central Otago produced the tasting’s top-scorer. The leading group included the pure and elegant of different styles’

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