Quarterly Publication of the Santa Fe Trail Association volume 35 ♦ number 1 November 2020

SFTA Awards and Hall of Fame Honorees ♦ page 13

The Diary of Pedro Ignacio Gallego: Meeting William Becknell ♦ page 16

Preservation Efforts on the Santa Fe Trail ♦ page 25 On the Cover: Standing Them Off: Kit Carson and the Utes: 1843

The Story behind the Painting by Ron Kil

One summer afternoon, sitting in the shade of his adobe house, histori- an Marc Simmons told me a story about Kit Carson that he said ranked as his very favorite. Since Marc was Kit’s biographer, and considered by John Carson, Kit’s great-grandson, to be the best of the bunch that’s written about Kit, I paid particular attention. The story is related in three paragraphs in Kit’s modest and understated autobiography, and I quickly realized it was the fodder for a good painting. Over several vis- its, Marc and I fleshed out Kit’s sparse account.

In the spring of 1843, Kit was employed as a hunter for a Bent, St. Vrain & Company freight caravan bound for the states. At the Walnut Creek crossing, near the great bend of the Arkansas River, they met an escort of U.S. Dragoons with a caravan of Mexican and American trad- ers bound for Santa Fe. Texans were reputed to be on the trail raiding the Mexican trains. The U. S. Dragoons could not escort them past the Arkansas, as that was Mexican territory. Kit was offered $300 in gold to ride dispatch to the Mexican governor in Santa Fe and request Mexican cavalry to escort the train the rest of the way in.

Kit took on the job and rode back to Bent’s Fort. The report there was that a large band of Utes was prowling about the country between Bent’s and the New Mexican capital, so Bent gave Kit a “fine horse,” most likely a thoroughbred, guaranteed to outrun the scrubby Indian cayuses. Kit did discover the Ute village but slipped by them and made it to Taos. From there he sent his dispatch to Santa Fe.

After four days he received a dispatch to take back to the waiting caravan. Kit tells of taking one Mexican companion with him on the return trip, but reveals nothing about his identity. Marc was convinced that the anonymous companion was the famed Mexican mountain man Mariano Medina, a friend of Kit’s, whose hometown was Taos. Mariano’s biographer places him as likely going with Fremont’s 1843 expedition to the northwest, the same one that Kit joined after his encounter with the Utes. Given the courage shown by this man, that was in keeping with Medina’s character. I’m willing to follow Marc’s

continued on page 10

About the Santa Fe Trail Association The mission of the Santa Fe Trail Association is to protect and preserve the Santa Fe Trail and to promote awareness of the historical legacy associated with it.

Follow us online at www.santafetrail.org, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and YouTube

Wagon Tracks, the official publication of the Santa Fe Trail Association (SFTA), publishes well-researched and documented peer-reviewed articles relating to the Santa Fe Trail. Wagon Tracks is published in February, May, August, and November. Deadlines are the 10th of the month prior to publication. Queries are welcome. Complete submission guidelines are posted at www.santafetrail.org. Although the entire issue of Wagon Tracks is copyrighted in the name of the Santa Fe Trail Association, copyright to each article remains in the author’s name. Articles may be edited or abridged at the editor’s discretion.

2 Wagon Tracks November 2020 Quarterly of the Santa Fe Trail Association volume 35 ♦ number 1 November 2020

"Ocean to Ocean, Old Trails Route, New Franklin and Boonville." National Old Trails Road -- Boone's Lick Trail west of Columbia, Missouri. Photo: www.fhwa. dot.gov/infrastructure/trgal34.cfm.

Read more in Jere Krakow's story on page 25.

Contents 10 The Story behind the Painting, continued 11 Historical Painting: Taking Your Best Shot 2 On the Cover: Sending Them Off: by Ruth Friesen Kit Carson and the Utes: 1843. 31 by Ron Kil Book Review: Lifelines: The Bowen Love 4 Letters, compiled by Susan Lee Ward. Insights from your President Reviewed by Ruth Friesen 5 Joanne’s Jottings 32 Chapter Reports 7, 12 Trail News, Education and 33 Membership Form Jr. Wagon Master 36 8-9 2021 Symposium Calendar

13-15 16-24 25-30

SFTA Awards and The Diary of Pedro Ignacio Preservation Efforts Hall of Fame Gallego: Meeting Becknell on the Santa Fe Trail

by Dr. Michael L. Olsen and by Jere L. Krakow Harry C. Myers

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 3 Insights from your President by Larry D. Short, President of SFTA

A loss occurred this year when the Deb Goodrich and her 200th com- Point of Rocks Ranch was sold, and mittee team, along with all SFTA public access to the Point of Rocks chapters, have planned amazing historic district is now prohibited. I events along the Santa Fe National am currently in talks with the new Historic Trail as we commemo- owner and will meet personally with rate the Bicentennial of the Trail him very soon. It is our strong desire throughout 2021. The Bent’s Fort to make an arrangement with him to Chapter has what should be one ensure that the visitors to this his- of the best Symposiums ever, and I toric site can continue to have access. encourage all members to register to As a result of this, I encourage ALL attend. Registration is open. landowners where historic districts or sites are located to please look into On September 1, 2021, a commemo- ways to make the site available to rative day of events will be held at public access in the future, even if by Franklin and Arrow Rock, Missouri, appointment only. It is not easy but exactly 200 years to the day since it is the right and responsible thing William Becknell left Missouri and to do. headed southwest to establish what It is hard to know where to begin. would become the Santa Fe Trail. This has been a very interesting year On September 2 a TEAM video Many events will be held throughout so far, to say the least. With the can- meeting was held with MODOT, 2021 and on into 2022. You will find cellation of the April board meeting NPS, Joanne, and me to discuss the a current calendar that is updated in Dodge City, the September board addition of NHT Trail signs to the often on our new website: www.san- meeting was the first board meeting highways on MODOT right of way. tafetrail200.org. You can also access that I presided over since becoming The meeting was designed to include information through our website at SFTA President last September in all six National Historic Trails in www.santafetrail.org. St. Louis. Missouri for future signing. It was a very successful meeting, with the I want to remind you of the impor- I am very proud that the Santa Fe MODOT representatives taking the tance of sharing with all your friends Trail Association, its members, the plan to the commission for approval. and family the posts on Facebook committee chairs, and its leadership This has been over a decade-long and also share the Eblast. This is a have been actively involved to ensure process to secure an agreement for very easy way for every one of you that we remain one of the most vi- the Santa Fe National Historic Trail to expand our sphere of coverage on able trail associations in the country. signs on MODOT-controlled high- social media. Our committees have performed ways. admirably to move forward with SFTA held its September workshop/ projects, publicity, social media, web- On Monday, September 28, a board meeting on September 25-26, site, symposium, interpretation, and TEAM meeting was set up with 2020. Due to Covid-19, we held a mapping/signage. KDOT, John Cannella and Coreen combination ZOOM video meeting Donnelly of the National Park Ser- with those who did not feel comfort- Our participation with the National vice, Joanne VanCoevern, and me. I able attending in-person, with 15 of Park Service continues to expand, am pleased to report that the meet- our board and others in attendance in and the cooperation between our ing had a very positive outcome, sim- Larned, Kansas. I am proud to report organizations is one of respect that ilar to the meeting with MODOT. that we had a total of 42 attendees our goals are mutually connected to We are pleased to announce that we for the NPS workshop on Friday and promote, protect, and preserve the will soon be able to have our NPS 34 attendees for the board meeting Santa Fe National Historic Trail. Santa Fe National Historic Trail on Saturday. Despite a few techni- Sometimes we fight change, but as route signs up on the rights-of-way cal issues, the meetings went on as we move forward in our endeavors of both states. We are excited that planned. to promote the trail through wayside many of these signs will be installed exhibits and social media, we must by the time the 200th commemora- What the next few months hold as adapt to new generations of Trail tion of the Santa Fe Trail begins. far as the ability to hold in-person visitors. meetings is a big unknown right now. One thing for sure is that with Wagon

4 Wagon Tracks November 2020 Joanne’s Jottings by Joanne VanCoevern, Association Manager

Zoom meetings, Teams meetings, and comed him and worked with him. HE conference calls have been numerous. WANTS TO RETURN. There has also been a big increase in the amount of correspondence con- We have also learned that season 10 of cerning the 200th, which includes A Taste of History received two Emmy everything from general questions to Awards: one for “Lifestyle Program – specifics about certain events, provid- Program Special” and one for “Talent- ing contact information, sharing in- Program Host/Moderator.” formation, discussing possible events, and so on. We are still anticipating that A Taste of History will return to the Santa Fe Many of our planned efforts for out- Trail to film an additional segment reach (with a focus on the 200th) were – but it depends on COVID, as well canceled due to COVID-19. However, as sponsorships. Additional funding we remain hopeful that these events would be required to film another will return in the near future and pro- segment from the Santa Fe Trail (due to the amount of travel/remoteness Although travel has been extremely vide us with the opportunity to spread of the film sites of Fort Larned and limited, and many chapter events, the word about the Santa Fe Trail, and Bent’s Fort). The SFTA budget com- meetings, and conferences have been especially activities associated with the mittee recommended for board action canceled, I can honestly say that the 200th. that SFTA provide another $7,500 past few months have been the busi- A Taste of History sponsorship for an additional seg- est months I have ever experienced ment. SFTA budget committee felt as manager of the Santa Fe Trail As- A Taste of History from the Santa Fe strongly that the $7,500 we paid for sociation. There has been an extreme Trail aired in July 2020 as segment the first segment filmed at Mahaffie increase in correspondence via the 5 of season 11. All seasons and seg- and Council Grove was well worth the many formats that SFTA has, includ- ments of A Taste of History can be money and will gain national exposure ing several e-mail accounts, through found on Amazon Prime, and the for the Santa Fe National Historic Facebook and Messenger, through show can be viewed on the following Trail for years to come through You- texts, through phone calls, and various link for the WHYY PBS station in Tube, Amazon, and Live Streaming. forms of online/phone meetings. Philadelphia: https://video.whyy.org/ That action was approved by the video/the-santa-fe-trail-95agkj/. Deb Much of this correspondence has been SFTA Board at their recent Board of Goodrich provided an interview with about day-to-day activities relating to Directors meeting. Gannett Publications about A Taste of the Association. However, there has History and that article appeared in at Both Fort Larned and Bent’s Fort also been a big increase in requests least 14 papers in Kansas, including superintendents have agreed to allow for information and public interest the Salina Journal and the Hutchin- A Taste of History to film at their sites; in the Trail. Additional queries for son News: www.hutchnews.com/ A Taste of History has expressed an in- information include asking for advice news/20200808/food-brings-santa-fe- terest in filming a segment from both before traveling the Trail, such as “Is a trail-history-to-life. sites. At this time, all future segments/ museum open?” “Can we visit the geo- filming are up in the air due to CO- cache?” “Do you still have challenge Chef Staib has stated that he was VID-19 restrictions. We remain hope- coin?” “Where can we eat?” “Where extremely pleased with the treatment ful that during 2021, A Taste of History can we stay?” “What are the roads he received from the Santa Fe Trail will return to film another segment like?” etc. Association, including our prepara- from the Santa Fe Trail. tion for his visit, our help during the Larry, continued filming, and the follow-up promotion. SFNHT Signage Update He further stated that visiting the Tracks, Eblast, and Facebook, we will Santa Fe Trail was one of his favorite For several years, the National Trails experiences EVER! Never in his life Office, Santa Fe, has been in conver- continue to make our citizens aware of sa the Santa Fe National Historic Trail did he think he would be able to ride tions with the Federal Highways and what is happening up and down in a stagecoach, or stand next to a buf- Administration (FHWA) to come up its length.  falo—he thoroughly enjoyed his time on the Trail and the people who wel- Continued next page

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 5 Joanne, continued from page 5

with a new, mutually agreeable sign design and modified suite of signs that meets the MUTCD* criteria for high- way signage. In 2019, NTIR received FHWA’s final “stamp” of approval for signage on state highways in the Na- tional Historic Trail (NHT) corridor.

With FHWA’s approval in place, along with a new sign design, a modi- fied suite of signs, and guidance on how these signs should be placed along highways and other Department of Transportation managed right-of- ways, SFTA and NPS are now re- opening conversations with the Trail states concerning the NHT signage in those states where the NHT aligns with state highways. Working with the National Trails Office, conversations have taken place with the Missouri Working with Brian Deaton, GIS pability on their smart phone or tablet Department of Transportation (MO- specialist in the National Trails Of- utilizing the built-in GPS. No cellular DOT) and the Kansas Department of fice, Santa Fe, and Sarah Rivera, GIS coverage or internet connectivity is re- Transportation (KDOT) concerning specialist in the Salt Lake City office, quired for field recording of locations the placement of SFNHT signage several participants have been invited because uploads can occur once the on state highways. In the near future to install the Survey 123 app. user is connected back to a network. we hope to continue to develop an Association members can use this app understanding and agreement on spe- Brian says, “The Survey123 app utiliz- on their own smart phones or tablets.” cific state guidance concerning NHT es a user-friendly interface, similar to signage; collaborate and work together a fillable PDF, and only requires filling Tis app does require a registration to plan for, and implement NHT sig- out prompted questions and taking process, but it is simple to follow with nage across the states; and potentially site asset photos while the mobile instructions received from Brian Dea- incorporate national historic trail sig- device captures the global positioning ton. We are hoping that others along nage into the state-specific sign guid- system (GPS) location. The location the SFNHT will join us in this effort ance manual. records automatically when the user to inventory information along the submits information about the sign, SFNHT. To get started on this process *The Manual on Uniform Traffic Con- marker, wayside, or exhibit. and get instructions on downloading trol Devices for Streets and Highways, the app, contact President Larry Short or MUTCD, defines the standards The app eliminates the use of complex at [email protected] or your used by road managers nationwide to and sometimes costly GPS devices manager at [email protected]. install street and highway signs. and in turn enables users the same ca-

SURVEY 123 APP LAUNCHED: General Membership Zoom Meeting The National Trails Office, Santa Fe, has announced that the Survey 123 January 16 NHT Asset Inventory application is ready to go. The Survey 123 NHT Larry Short, SFTA President, will host a general membership meeting Asset Inventory will provide the via Zoom on Saturday, January 16 at 10 a.m. Central Time. opportunity to survey/inventory You'll hear updates on projects as well as 2021 plans, signage, exhibits, markers, etc., along and board members will be introduced. the SFNHT and provide an organized way to keep track of this information To participate, contact President Short at [email protected] on a trail-wide basis. to receive a Zoom invitation.

6 Wagon Tracks November 2020 Partnership for the SFTA Research Grants National Trails System Deadline December 1

This extraordinary year has given us The SFTA Scholarly Research Com- all time for reflection. The passage of mittee awards grants of up to $1500 the Great American Outdoors Act to support research on some topic (GAOA), signed into law by President related to the Santa Fe Trail. As usual, Trump on August 4, 2020, is the high- applications are due on December 1. light of my three years representing The application form is on the SFTA the Santa Fe National Historic Trail website at www.santafetrail.org. Look to the Partnership for the National for “Scholarly Research” under “Our Trails System (PNTS) organization. Programs.” This would be a good time Santa Fe Trail 200: Serving on the Advocacy and Policy to apply for a grant if you need to do Commemoration 2021-2025 Committee as well as the Trail Lead- further research on a person or place to ers Council allows me to engage with help your area commemorate the 200th It's no secret that COVID-19 has the other historic and scenic trails on anniversary of the Santa Fe Trail. the many important issues for which wreaked havoc with our schedules. we research and develop strategies for Of the applications received in De- Events and planning for events have implemention. I am grateful to Larry cember of 2019, two were selected. Joy been problematic. With our Santa Fe Justice for appointing me to this posi- Poole researched at the Denver Public Trail 200 commemoration looming, tion and to Larry Short and Joanne Library, where she had located a trail this has caused great concern about VanCoevern who continue to support diary. She transcribed the diary of Wil- anniversary events. This was a topic of me whenever I reach out to them. liam Baskerville, Jr., a wagon boss for our board meeting a few weeks ago F. X. Aubry. Her article will appear in when a winning idea was presented: The PNTS has transitioned to new an upcoming issue of Wagon Tracks. how about extending our commemo- leadership with Valerie Rupp begin- Rebecca Atkinson received the other ration? Instead of limiting it to 2021, ning her role of Executive Director. grant. She thinks many “facts” about how about 2021-2025? Read her bio at http://pnts.org/new/ Cathay Williams are in error and had This is a win-win. Folks are already about-us/staff-board/. The PNTS of- hoped to research at the Missouri His- rolling some activities into 2022. We fice has been relocated from Madison, torical Society. Due to the closure of don't want them to feel like they Wisconsin, to Washington, D.C., to that facility for an extended period be- weren't really a part of the "official" better serve our trail members and cause of COVID, Atkinson was unable commemoration. This idea has been work more closely with our partners. to go to St. Louis, and her grant due bandied about for several years. There Our monthly conference calls have date has been extended to 2021. moved to the Zoom meeting format, are so many significant anniversaries which creates technology challenges Two previous grants resulted in the in that five-year period, and the events for many of us. A change in adminis- publication of two articles. Dr. Susan of 1825 include the Sibley Survey tration in the November 2020 election Calafate Boyle applied in 2018 so she which made this an official road. It could allow additional trail funding could travel to research two Hispano is also the year that the trade became priorities in future fiscal budgets. entrepreneurs. The May 2020 issue of two-way, when Mexicans began com- What remains constant is the profes- Wagon Tracks included Boyle’s article ing to America to trade. “Nestor Armijo: The Capitalist from sionalism and passion that we all share Our story is simply too big to be Las Cruces.” The August 2020 Wagon for the Santa Fe National Historic short-changed by the restrictions of Tracks included a photo of Nestor Trail. COVID-19. Rather than being de- Armijo. Boyle intends to publish a feated by it, let's work past it. Let's do --Marcia Will-Clifton separate article on the other Hispano the best we can to get through, meet- SFTA Representative to PNTS entrepreneur she researched. Craig ing safely in person or through Zoom Crease had applied in 2017 with the and conference calls, and continue hopes of recreating Bourgmont’s 1724 sharing our story. journey into central Kansas and to see January 10 is the what portion of Bourgmont’s trip co- --Deb Goodrich submission deadline for the incided with the later Santa Fe Trail. 200th Chairperson February issue of In May of 2020, that research was Wagon Tracks. published in Volume 40 of The Kansas Anthropologist.

--Mary Conrad, Committee Chair

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 7 The Santa Fe Trail Lives On 200 Years of Commerce and Cultural Connections

2021 Santa Fe Trail Bicentennial Symposium at Bent's Fort, La Junta, Colorado September 22-26, 2021

Activities Feature Tours Registration is Open Call for Living Historians and Vendors The symposium at Bent's Old Fort By September 2021 all things WILL will feature distinguished speakers, be back to normal – whatever that The Planning Committee for the authentic living history events, tours is! For those of you who like to plan 2021 Santa Fé Trail Bicentennial to Santa Fe Trail sites, entertainment, ahead, registration for the 2021 Bi- Symposium next September contin- great food, and sharing with many centennial Symposium of the Santa ues to work at developing an event other Trail enthusiasts. It is being Fé Trail is open through the Last that will be educational, enjoyable, hosted by the Bent's Fort Chapter Chance Store at www.lastchances- and fitting for a bicentennial affair. of the SFTA, the largest and most tore.org/santa-fe-trail-symposium- active SFTA chapter in the United registration/. Those interested in being part of the States. living history event or being a vendor It may have been a trying time for during the Symposium are encour- Besides activities at Bent's Old all—especially for those planning for aged to submit their information to Fort, sessions are planned for Otero this unique event—but it will be here the planning committee by the end Junior College, the Koshare Indian before we know it. Speakers, tours, of 2020. More information on what Museum, and the Otero County living history, fine food, and great is needed for these submissions may Museum. Bus tours to noted sites in camaraderie will be found in South- be found on the Symposium website this historical area will be narrated eastern Colorado, 22-26 September (www.2021sfts.com) or contact John by well-informed historians. One 2021. M. Carson at 719-980-1581. tour will be a full-day east-bound excursion (Friday); the other two There has been some concern per- tours will take place Thursday and taining to lodging in the area. The Saturday afternoons. Living history Planning Committee has – and activities will be available at Bent's WILL – continue to work with the Fort for those not wishing to go on area motels and hotels to acquire spe- tours. A traditional membership cial rates for attendees of the Sympo- meeting, awards ceremony, banquet, sium. At the present, these establish- reception, and vendors' tables are ments have been hesitant to move planned. forward with Symposium rates after the disaster of tourist travel over the For the latest information, past few months. We will continue to visit the Symposium website at work hard on your behalf and keep www.2021sfts.com. you up-to-date on any progress we are able to make in this arena.

Don’t miss out on the only chance to commemorate the 200th birth- day of the Santa Fé Trail at Bent's Fort and at the multitude of events planned up and down the Trail. A calendar of other events can be found on the Symposium website at www.2021sfts.com and at the 200 anniversary website https://santaf- etrail200.org.

8 Wagon Tracks November 2020 Early Santa Fe Trail Travelers Left Broad Legacies

By Dotti Russell survey party returned East, Slover trapped in New Mexico Bent's Fort Chapter Newsletter Editor and the region for 17 years. Moving to California in 1837, he built a homestead in the San Bernardino Valley that Events to commemorate 200 years of the Santa Fe Trail became well-known for welcoming travelers. In 1854, at the will soon begin, including the Santa Fe Trail Association age of 81, Slover was killed while trying to shoot a bear. In (SFTA) Symposium September 22-26, 2021, in La Junta, California, both Mt. Slover in the San Bernardino Moun- Colorado. Learning the stories of the early travelers, it is tains and Slover Avenue in Fontana are named after him. important to remember their accomplishments went be- yond their Trail days. Meeting in New Mexico in the late 1820s, Ceran St. Vrain and Charles Bent formed the Bent, St. Vrain & Co in 1831. William Becknell’s first trip to Santa Fe spurred the devel- The partnership, active in Santa Fe Trail commerce for over opment of what we know today as the Santa Fe Trail. Fol- 15 years, ended with the untimely death of Charles Bent in lowing two more trips to New Mexico, Becknell remained early 1847 during Bent’s tenure as the first Territorial Gov- in Missouri, serving as a judge and then two terms in the ernor of New Mexico. Following the death of Charles Bent, state legislature. In 1835 he moved to Red River County in Ceran moved to Mora, New Mexico. His business activities Texas, began cattle ranching, and supported the Texas inde- included owning sawmills and a publishing company, as pendence movement. Known as the Father of the Santa Fe well as an unsuccessful railroad venture, until his death in Trail, Becknell died in his late 70s near Clarksville, Texas, October 1870 at the age of 68. on April 30, 1865. These early travelers not only helped establish the Santa Ewing Young and William Wolfskill met in 1822 while on Fe Trail route, but their legacy includes being trailblazers, Becknell’s second trading trip to New Mexico. Upon open- community leaders, industry entrepreneurs, and the people ing a trade store in Taos, Young sometimes partnered with behind place names. We will learn more about travelers and Wolfskill on trading trips to Missouri and later in trapping events along the Trail as we commemorate 200 years of the parties in search of fur-bearing animals, especially beaver. Santa Fe Trail at the 2021 Symposium, September 22-26, in La Junta, Colorado. To learn more about the Symposium, In 1831 as beaver numbers declined in the southwest, go to www.2021sfts.com. Wolfskill left for California. En route to the West Coast, Wolfskill led his party over a new, longer, and easier route Sources: that became a favored branch of the Old Spanish Trail. Settling in El Pueblo de Los Angeles, he acquired farm- Beachum, Larry Mahan, “Becknell, William (ca. 1787-1856),” online land and is known as the father of the citrus industry in the at Texas State Historical Association, Handbook of Texas, www.tsha- online.org/handbook/entries/becknell-william . state. Holmes, Kenneth L., Ewing Young: Master Trapper. Portland, Oregon: In 1832 Young, too, headed west, making his home in Cali- Binford & Mort, Publishers, 1967. fornia before heading to Oregon, settling in the Chehalem Marusich, Conchita Thornton, William Wolfskill, Journey to Find the Valley (near Willamette Valley). Young turned cattleman, Legacy. Napa, California: Conchita Thornton Marusich, 2017. then owner of lumber and grist mills, and died intestate in 1841 at the age of 47. His death showed the need for . . . , “Old Spanish Trail Profiles, Isaac Slover,” online at www.oldspan- probate courts, a factor leading to the establishment of a ishtrail.org/assets/PDFs/TrailPersonalityProfile-Slover.pdf and . . . , “Slover Avenue,” City of San Bernardino, California, Slover provisional government in Oregon. Avenue online at sbcity.org/about/history/streets_n_places/slover_av- enue.asp. Another adventurer, Isaac Slover, arrived in New Mexico with the Colonel Hugh Glenn-Jacob Fowler survey and Dunham, Harold H., “Ceran St. Vrain,” in Mountain Men & Fur Traders of the Far West, ed. LeRoy R. Hafen. Lincoln and London: trapping party of 1821-22. Remaining in the West after the University of Nebraska Press, 1982

Socially isolated this winter? Read about the Santa Fe Trail Find recommended readings at www.2021sfts.com/readings.html

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 9 Kit Carson: the Story behind the Painting, continued from page 2

hunch on this. and trying everything they could to hoped the two men would drop their stampede their mounts. guard or open a flank so the Indians Several days ride from Taos the two could slip an arrow or a trade ball trappers spotted a Ute war party Now, to fully appreciate what is into them. The two trappers never that had already spotted them. These happening, you need to consider obliged them. Utes were likely from the Capote horses, guns, and the nature of the or Moache bands, whose material old-time Plains Indian. This dance After a half an hour, the Utes con- culture and appearance more closely of death that Kit and his compan- ceded defeat and broke contact, resembled their Plains enemies than ion played out—Kit said it lasted a riding off. Kit and Mariano made it it did their northern and western half an hour—was a supreme test of safely to Bent’s Fort. While enroute brethren. This unfortunate meeting nerves more taxing than any shooting to Taos from the fort, Kit rode and could likely have happened in the scrape. Anyone who knows horses led Bent’s race horse: for the paint- vicinity of the present-day National knows that thoroughbreds are good ing I’ve shown him riding it on the Rifle Association Whittington Cen- for one thing—running. Aside from return trip. The Carson autobiogra- ter, where the Mountain Route of the that, they tend to be high-headed, phy is vague on this, but the thought Santa Fe Trail crosses the Canadian easily excitable, and hard to keep of Kit hanging onto two excitable River, then turns north to Raton in hand. And that’s without being horses while standing off the Utes Pass. It’s certainly wide open coun- surrounded by dozens of howling stretches credulity. Quien sabe? Like try, and one could surmise the Utes Utes. Hanging on to that horse as much of historical painting, some- were scouting from the ridges around he reared, plunged, and spun made times you just have to take your best Red River Peak. I placed the setting a nearly-impossible task even more shot. of my watercolor just to the east of so. Even Mariano’s cayuse would have that peak and the Canadian, on the been caught up in it. Regardless of the lack of clarity of present-day V7 Ranch. some details, Marc Simmons consid- The Plains rifle was a long, heavy ered this encounter to be the finest As the Utes bore down on them, his weapon weighing in at 10-13 pounds. example of courage and loyalty in Mexican companion told Kit to sink I hunted with one for 10 years and the annals of frontier history. As Kit spur and make tracks, as no Indian can tell you that you have to learn Carson has always been one of my pony could catch his thoroughbred. to shoulder it, acquire your sights, heroes, I certainly agree. Kit later said that for a split second and shoot quickly. Hefting one in an he considered it, which I think is a authoritative manner while hanging The original watercolor painting was blatantly honest admission he didn’t onto berserk horses for 30 minutes commissioned by Robbie Roberts, have to own up to, and that few oth- would have pushed both men to the curator of the Brownell Museum ers would have. However, disregard- limits of their endurance. Factor in, of the Southwest, and is part of the permanent collection of the NRA ing what was obviously good advice, too, all those hooves churning up the  Kit chose to stay and die with his parched ground would have created Whittington Center. friend. a dust cloud that probably resembled a dust devil from a distance. And the Sources: The surest tactic on the frontier in two trappers were in the middle of it. this situation was for plainsmen to • Kit Carson’s own story of his life step off their horses and use them for The average reader is questioning • Kit Carson Days: Vol 1. Edwin shields; being dismounted also gave why the Utes didn’t just open fire, as Sabin them a surer aim with their long ri- they were armed, as Kit noted, with • Mariano Medina: Colorado fles. An old chief approached Carson both guns and bows. The old-time Mountain Man. Zethyl Gates and feinted shaking hands, while at Indian did not believe in the white • Utes, People of the Shining Moun- the same time making a grab for his man’s theory of acceptable casual- tain. Charles Marsh rifle. The ploy didn’t work, and soon ties. To them, zero loss was accept- the two trappers were surrounded by able and if they got your horses, the whole war party. guns, and scalp in the process, then it was a victory. The Indians knew Standing back to back, their .54 cali- the mountain men were dead shots, ber Plains rifles leveled and cocked and that at least two of them would while also grasping their horses’s die at first fire. (Possibly three, as Kit reins, the men held their ground as was known to have packed a pistol, the warriors circled them, shouting as I have shown here.) Instead, they

10 Wagon Tracks November 2020 Historical Painting: Taking your Best Shot 374 Ratified Indian Treaties Now Online by Ruth Friesen So too the historical artist conveys an impression and a point of view. Did DigiTreaties provides access to 374 A historical artist must rely on stories the incident happen just this exact digitized ratified Indian treaties from and as much research as possible, but way? The artist must use imagination the National Archives and provides without knowing the truth of being and creativity to portray as accurately context and tools for working with the there. As Ron Kil notes, he placed as possible a specific scene. Sometimes treaties online at digitreaties.org. the setting of his watercolor just east details are known, and sometimes of Red River Peak, without knowing there is a “lack of clarity,” as Kil notes. The Museum of Indian Arts & Cul- exactly where the event occurred. This As with photography, the perspec- ture (MIAC), located in Santa Fe, is artistic license, based on research of tive can make a difference too. What New Mexico, teamed up with the Na- what might have been, all the infor- would the impact of the painting have tional Archives and Records Admin- mation a historical artist has. been if Kil had portrayed the after- istration (NARA) to create this new math of the standoff, with Indians online tool. The seed of the Kit Carson painting riding off into the distance and Kit “The treaties between the U.S. and was planted by a story in Kit’s autobi- and his companion calming distraught Native nations are relevant, and few ography. Did it really happen? Prob- horses? Do the Indians in the fore- people have had access to know about ably, but Kit’s autobiography (dictated ground convey a stronger threat than treaties that are related to where to John Moslin by illiterate Kit some the defeated natives riding into the they live,” says Della Warrior (Otoe- 13 years after this incident) was later sunset? Oh, and what time of day was Missouria), MIAC director. “MIAC turned over to Army Surgeon De it? Witt Peters who, by all accounts, em- is pleased to be able to provide this bellished the stories considerably for As Kil says, “Sometimes you just have online resource that we all can use to publication in 1858. The purpose of to take your best shot.”  explore our relationships using maps those stories was to create heroes, not and a carefully curated set of historical stick to documented facts, according Note: documents from the National Ar- to historian Leo Oliva. • www.dailymail.co.uk/news/ chives, the Library of Congress, the article-2149899/The-American- Smithsonian, and other sources. This An artist depicts a moment in time, an West-youve-seen-Amazing-19th- is part of a multiyear project we’re impression. Even a photograph, which century-pictures-landscape-char- undertaking to provide more access one could say portrays the truth, is tered-time.html online to historic documents often the perspective of the person behind • https://picturinghistory.gc.cuny. otherwise unavailable to the people the camera. A beautiful photo of a edu/timothy-osullivan-historic- and communities to which they relate, pink hollyhock against an adobe wall spanish-record-of-the-con- and which often have impacts and  doesn’t show the trash can which the quest-1873/ continuing legacies today.” photographer angled to keep out of the photo.

The photographer Timothy O’ Sul- livan, known for his views of the Civil War and later for Western landscapes as part of the Wheeler survey, chose images of American Indians doing everyday things, dressed in what they actually wore, such as denim jeans. (See note.) Many other photographers of the day requested that their subjects pose in ceremonial garb. Likewise, most photographs of our ancestors de- pict them posing in their Sunday best clothes, in a studio setting. It’s a rarity to see them in the kitchen or pitching Sierra Blanca Peak in Colorado in the background, Ft. Garland, Colorado. Timothy hay in the fields. Each image promul- H. O'Sullivan. Part of series: U.S. War Dept., Corps of Engineers; Geographical gates a different view of the subject. Explorations and Surveys West of 100th Meridian, Expedition of 1874; Lieut. Geo. M. Wheeler, commanding. Library of Congress. [United States] Photograph. https:// www.loc.gov/item/2005695633/.

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 11 Junior Wagon Master Continues Popularity

Travel on the Santa Fe Trail has perhaps been a bit slower than normal, but it is still going on. Whether actually traveling or virtually, families are still traveling our great trail.

Since last April, 29 booklets and 22 patches have been distributed to 16 different states. Several of our sites which have reopened have been restocked. Families continue to be complimentary to the Junior Wagon Master Program.

As predicted, we are now very low on Scout (ages 15 and up) and Cavvy (ages 5-8) book- lets. The funds have been raised for one print- ing and the Santa Fe Trail Asociation will finance the other one. Cavvy booklets will be ordered after January 1st, 2021. Hopefully, by The Ehmann family from Lexington, Massachusetts, working on their Junior our 200th commemoration activities all along Ranger/ Junior Wagon Master booklets at Ft. Union National Monument near the trail, we will be fully stocked and ready to Watrous, New Mexico. go. Trail Center Names New Director If you’d like to contribute to the shipping/ postage costs, just put Jr. W. M. in the memo Seth McFarland has been selected as the new director for line of your check made out to SFTA. Thank the Santa Fe Trail Center in Larned, Kansas. He most re- you for supporting this important program. cently served as the Operations Manager for over seven --Janet Armstead, Junior Wagon Master years at the New Mexico History Museum at the end of Program Director the Santa Fe Trail. Mr. McFarland has more than 20 years of experience with various museums, and looks forward to working with the Fort Larned Historical Society and the Education Trunks Inventoried Santa Fe Trail Association in educating and preserving the legacy of the Santa Fe Trail. The Education Committee is currently working on locating, taking inventory, and updating the chapter education trunks. He fills the position left vacant by Rebecca Hiller, who We are still missing two trunks. One is feared gone for good. served as Curator and Archivist of the Trail Center Museum The other one should be around somewhere, so folks out in and Research Library from February 2006-2008, and then the Wagon Bed Springs area, keep your eyes open. It is a big returned to the Trail Center in 2013 and became the Direc- tor in January 2015. She died October 30, 2019, in Madison, plastic tub with a lid. The trunks are full of trade samples,  costumes, and lesson plans. Other chapters, please work on Wisconsin, near her extended family. your inventory list and let us know what is needed. Vice President Chris Day has been invaluable in this project. John Cannella Gains Leadership Role

John Cannella has been promoted to the NPS National Trails and Wild and Scenic Rivers Systems senior program manager, where he will help provide national program over- sight and interagency collaboration across systems. He will continue to work from the NPS-National Trails office in Santa Fe. John joined the National Park Service in 2004, and most recently was the Deputy Superintendent at NPS- National Trails. He co-founded the National Trails System GIS Network, and served as the acting NPS lead for the National Wild and Scenic Rivers and National Trails Sys- tems for most of this year.

12 Wagon Tracks November 2020 2020 Santa Fe Trail Association Awards

The Award of Merit is presented to for several years, and has written and  City of Olathe for the Mahaffie those who have made a significant performed a musical program about Stagecoach Stop and Farm contribution to the preservation, pro- the Santa Fe Trail. She is a member tection and promotion of the Santa Fe and supporter of several chapters and Since 1979, the City of Olathe has Trail or the Santa Fe Trail Associa- is more than happy to spread the word owned the Mahaffie Stagecoach Stop tion. about the Santa Fe Trail to anyone she and Farm and preserves it as a liv- ing history of life along the Westport  meets. Larry Short Route of the Santa Fe Trail. Today, Larry is a champion in pursuing proj- The Marc Simmons Writing Award Mahaffie is one of the few stagecoach ects with Avila College students and is awarded for the best Wagon Tracks stops left on the Santa Fe Trail, and professors for the 2021 Commemora- article over the past year. the only one preserved as a public tive logo design and the media video  historic site. The site is listed on the series the students are producing for Dr. Susan Calafate Boyle for: National and Kansas Registers of the 200th Anniversary of the SFNHT “Domestic Manufactures and Historic Places. Operated by the City in 2021. the Santa Fe Trade,” Wagon Tracks, of Olathe’s Parks and Recreation De- Volume 34, No. 2, February 2020.  partment, the site is also designated Kenton Thomas “Nestor Armijo: The Capital- an official component of the Santa Kenton Thomas contacted Joanne ist from Las Cruces,” Wagon Tracks, Fe National Historic Trail by the Na- VanCoevern and made SFTA aware Volume 34, No. 3, May 2020 tional Park Service and a partner site of a 50-mile Boy Scout Trail from of Freedom's Frontier National Heri- The David Clapsaddle Memorial Burlingame, Kansas, to Council tage Area. Grove, Kansas, which was popular in Chapter Award honors work done the 1960s. This awareness turned into by chapters or individuals or groups The Gregory Franzwa Memorial for a National Park Service Project with within a chapter who have done out- Lifetime Achievement Award is pre- the cooperation of SFTA and the Boy standing work or provided outstand- sented for extraordinary achievement Scout leaders. A portion of the trail ing leadership in a chapter (erecting in the preservation, protection and from Allen, Kansas, through Council signs, guiding tours, giving programs, promotion of the Santa Fe Trail. etc.). Grove, Kansas, will follow the Flint  Hills Kansas State Park Trail.  Dr. Leo E. Oliva Bill Bunyan Leo has dedicated his life to research, The Paul Bentrup Ambassador Bill Bunyan is a founding member writing, and the preservation of the Award is given to a person clearly of the Santa Fe Trail Association. Santa Fe Trail. As a founding member identified with promotion of the Twice he has served as President of of the Santa Fe Trail Association, he Santa Fe Trail Association, develop- the Dodge City/Ft. Dodge/Cimarron provided countless hours of service ment and dissemination of knowledge Cutoff Chapter. Under his leader- as editor of Wagon Tracks for 25 years of Trail history, preservation of Trail ship, the chapter has erected numer- and volunteer operator of the Last related ruts, artifacts, or historical ous signs and storyboards about the Chance Store since 1986. In addition, sites, or which otherwise promote the trail. Bill led the charge to preserve he has provided guidance for chapters knowledge and understanding of the the famous "Point of Rocks" Santa in marking projects, provided numer- Santa Fe Trail in the history of the Fe Trail Landmark and save it from ous programs on the history associated United States. the bulldozers of the highway depart- with the Trail, and published articles ment. He led the effort to restore the  and books with topics related to the Janet Armstead monument in Chilton Park, and coor- history of the Santa Fe Trail. Janet Armstead has provided numer- dinated efforts to identify, verify, and ous hours of volunteer time to help mark newly-discovered ruts at Burr Special Award of Appreciation create and administer the Junior Parkway Dodge City and Cimarron  Wagon Master program for the Santa Golf Course. Rod Podszus for his work in de- Fe Trail Association. She coordinates veloping, launching, monitoring, and with volunteer sites along the entire The Ralph Hathaway Memorial editing the SFTA e-blast. length of the Trail, corresponds with Heritage Preservation Award is all participants, and fulfills the awards presented to landowners, former --Linda Colle, Awards Chairperson for those who complete the program. landowners, leaseholders, or tenants In addition, Janet has provided leader- of SFT ruts, remnants, structures, or ship for the Santa Fe Trail Youth Trip sites.

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 13 2020 Santa Fe Trail Hall of Fame Honorees Photo provided by Catherine C. Compton provided Catherine by Photo C. Photo provided by Kathryn D. Gardner provided Kathryn by Photo D.

John Simpson Hough (1833 - 1919) Malcolm Conn (1831 - 1898)

John Simpson Hough was born in Philadelphia, Pennsyl- Malcolm Conn was born to James Clay and Mary Conn in vania, on Christmas Day in 1833. He learned the wholesale Baltimore County, Maryland, on December 12, 1831. An dry goods trade from his uncles in Philadelphia. Around 1850 Maryland census listed James Conn as a farmer hav- 1850, he left home, headed for Independence. ing real estate worth $6,000. In 1855, he left Maryland to seek employment in Westport, Kansas. After only a year in At age 16, he was hired by Seth Hays as an ox driver based Westport, Conn moved to Council Grove, which was in the in Council Grove, Kansas. Hough moved back to Westport middle of the Kansa or Kaw land. Malcolm became a major in 1855 and engaged in merchandising. He also married figure in trade with Santa Fe traders and the Kaw tribe. The Mary A. Prowers, sister of John Wesley Prowers, who later Stone Store was built in 1858 by the partnership of Conn, became a Colorado cattle baron. When the Civil War broke Hill & Munkres right on the Santa Fe Trail. Conn bought out, he was chief clerk at the Fort Leavenworth Arsenal. In out the partnership the next year. In 1860, he was one of 1862, he went into active service as a 2nd Lieutenant with the town’s wealthiest citizens, having a personal estate of Company E, 77th regiment. $10,000.

After the war, Hough took up the dry goods business at William Shamleffer, who later owned the Stone Store, Council Grove. In 1867 he purchased a stock of goods in reminiscenced about Conn’s store in the early 1860s, “The Leavenworth City and transported the goods and his family merchant had to hustle with business customers all day, and over the Santa Fe Trail to Colorado Territory. His brother- then entertain them royally at night; for some of them came in-law, John Wesley Prowers, had bought some land along hundreds of miles to trade, and the business house had to the Purgatoire River from Thomas Boggs. The two families furnish many of them with sleeping quarters, place to cook settled into Boggsville. There he opened a store in partner- their meals, corrals in which to keep their stock, and open ship with Prowers. Early in 1868, Kit Carson and his fam- access to corn cribs.” ily moved to Boggsville and lived in the same house as the Hough family. On May 4, 1863, Dick Yeager and his band of Missouri guerrillas camped near Council Grove, intent on destroy- In 1869 Hough moved his family to Trinidad, Colorado. In ing the town. Conn, who had known Yeager as a Santa Fe 1873 Hough sold his Greek Revival-style house to the Baca freighter before the war, went to the camp and persuaded family. He moved to another booming town on the Arkan- him to spare Council Grove. Yeager’s band then went to sas River, West Las Animas, which had sprung up around Diamond Springs and raided Howell’s Stage Station, killing the Kansas Pacific railhead. The firm of Prowers & Hough Howell and wounding his wife. In 1864, Conn advertised established themselves as forwarding and commission that he would close his mercantile business by December of merchants. Hough was also a member of the firm Prowers, that year, and requested that all accounts be settled. He sold Goodnight & Co., the heaviest shippers of beef to New York his business to C.N. James and William Shamleffer, and and Chicago. He helped organize the Bent County Bank between 1866 and 1870 sold them his remaining interests. in 1875. Early in 1876, he was in Denver as a Bent County Conn became a cattle dealer in 1870 and the proprietor of representative to the Colorado Constitutional Convention. the Barnum Hotel in Kansas City in 1880. He eventually In 1880 he was the Democratic candidate for Governor of owned hotels in three more major cities. He died in Law- Colorado, but he lost to Fred W. Pitkin. At the time of his rence, Kansas, of stomach cancer on February 28, 1898, at death, he was the county judge of Hinsdale County. his most famous hotel, the Eldridge House.

14 Wagon Tracks November 2020 2020 Santa Fe Trail Hall of Fame Honorees Photo provided by Christine St. Vrain Fischahs Vrain provided Christine St. by Photo Photo provided by Christine St. Vrain Fischahs Vrain provided Christine St. by Photo

Benedict Marcellin St. Vrain (1835 – 1887) Royal Red St. Vrain-Bransford (c. 1827 – 1886)

Benedict Marcellin St. Vrain was a nephew of the famed Royal Red St. Vrain was a Sioux woman born into an im- mountain man and fur trader, Ceran St. Vrain. Ceran had portant Oglala-Teton family about 1827. Her brother was nine other siblings, and except for his youngest brother, the famous Chief Red Cloud and her nephew was Crazy Marcellin, most are unknown to the general reader. How- Horse. She was married/traded in 1840 at age 13 to Mar- ever, one of Ceran’s younger brothers was Domitille St. cellin St. Vrain, majordomo of Fort St. Vrain in Colorado Vrain. Domitille (1808-1867) was born at the family home Territory. in Spanish Lake, St. Louis County, Missouri. He is listed as a farmer in the 1850 and 1860 Federal censuses and died in After Marcellin abandoned her in 1848, she and her three 1867. His eldest son was Benedict Marcellin. Like his older children spent time at Bent’s Fort before brother-in-law cousin, Marie Felicite St. Vrain, Benedict joined Uncle Cer- Ceran St. Vrain took them to his home in Taos, New an in the Southwest. However, unlike his cousin, he chose Mexico. In Taos she became friends with Felipe and Delo- to leave Missouri and make the Southwest his home. res Baca, two of the earliest settlers of Trinidad, Colorado. When Ceran moved to Mora, New Mexico, Red followed, It is not clear exactly when Benedict first traveled the Santa lived there for 10 years, and married William Bransford. Fe Trail, but it had to be between 1860 and 1870 as his first They had seven children. The Baca family was living in daughter, Maud, was born in 1867 at Mora, New Mexico. nearby Guadalupita, and at their suggestion, the Bransford After his first wife, Sarah Longuevan, died, Benedict made family moved with them to help settle Trinidad, Colorado. arrangements to take her body back to Missouri for burial. After returning to New Mexico, he began writing letters to Not long after their arrival, Red and William began operat- his wife’s sister, Martha, persuading her to marry him and ing a boarding house, where they rented several jacals (small help raise his two young children, Maud and baby son Paul. residences) on the property to visitors. The Columbian He again traveled the Trail to Missouri to marry Martha Hotel that currently stands at First & Commercial Street and bring her to Mora. They continued to build their family was built on the site of the Bransford boarding house. That with five more children. corner marked where the newer route of the Santa Fe Trail climbed up the hill from the Purgatoire. At the corner of Benedict helped Uncle Ceran with the mill in Mora and a Bridge and Main Street, this newer trail met the original store in Watrous, New Mexico. Watrous, previously known route that came into town along Main Street. as La Junta, was in a strategic location to facilitate Santa Fe Trail trade exchanges. It was there that the two main Red lived her final days with her friend Delores Baca in branches of the Santa Fe Trail, the Cimarron Branch and “the Baca House.” On April 12, 1886, Red St. Vrain Brans- the Mountain Branch, rejoined before heading either to ford died at the age of 59 and is buried in Trinidad Catholic Taos or Santa Fe. Benedict was appointed to U.S. Postmas- Cemetery. ter in Mora in 1870, and was one of the executors of Ceran Royal Red and Red Cloud’s mother was Walks as She St. Vrain’s will. Benedict is buried in the St. Vrain family Thinks, the sister of the famous Sioux chief, Smoke. De- cemetery in Mora, New Mexico, near his Uncle Ceran. cades-long speculation on whether Red was actually related to Chief Red Cloud was recently put to rest with DNA testing, which proved that Red’s descendant, Christine St. Vrain Fischahs, is indeed related to Chief Red Cloud.

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 15 The Diary of Pedro Ignacio Gallego Wherein 400 Soldiers Following the Trail of Comanches Met William Becknell on his First Trip to Santa Fe

Editor's note: To mark the 200th an- made the removal of trade prohibi- niversary of William Becknell’s historic tions possible)? Trade had been closed journey to Santa Fe, Wagon Tracks will to Americans and other outsiders with reprint several articles from past issues. New Mexico and the rest of Spain’s We’ve selected articles which are impor- colonies until Mexican independence tant to a broad knowledge of the Trail, in September 1821. There was a ques- but which may be buried too deeply in the tion also about the route the Becknell annals of the past to be known by read- party followed, especially from the ers newer to the history of the Santa Fe Arkansas to the vicinity of present Las Trail. These articles will be marked with Vegas. the 200th anniversary logo, as well as the original publication date, and updated known as the Santa Fe Trail between Becknell, of course, was not the first biographical information about the au- Missouri and New Mexico. This set American in the opening decades of thors. in motion over a half century of com- the nineteenth century to attempt merce and cultural exchange between trade with New Mexico. That earlier By Dr. Michael L. Olsen New Mexico and eastern trade centers expeditions had been accorded a less and Harry C. Myers and contributed to the acquisition of than cordial reception in Santa Fe was Published in the November 1992 the region by the United States dur- common knowledge on the Missouri issue of Wagon Tracks ing the Mexican War. Gallego’s diary, frontier. Zebulon M. Pike, in 1806- published here for the first time, sheds 1807, had been leading a military ven- For over a century historians have new light on Becknell’s initial journey ture, so his fate may not have served speculated about the circumstances to Santa Fe. as a warning, but what of the party of surrounding William Becknell’s jour- James Baird and Robert McKnight, ney across the plains in 1821, includ- The summer of 1821 was a difficult imprisoned in Mexico from 1812 to ing such issues as where he was head- one for New Mexico Governor Don 1821? Or of Auguste P. Chouteau and ing and the route he followed into Facundo Melgares. Navajo Indians Jules De Mun (also DeMunn), who New Mexico. Almost exclusively they beset the territory’s scattered settle- during the summer of 1817 spent 48 have relied on Becknell’s own account ments from the west. In August, Co- days incarcerated on the plaza in San- of his trek. But other documentary manche Indians from the eastern ta Fe and had $30,000 worth of their 2 evidence exists in the diary of Militia plains raided San Miguel del Vado. goods confiscated? H. M. Chittenden, Urbana Captain Pedro Ignacio Gal- There were rumors of revolution in in his early landmark history of the fur lego, who, with his troops, encoun- Mexico itself. To meet the Indian trade, surmised, “The outrageous treat- tered Becknell’s party near present Las threat, Melgares fielded several com- ment of Chouteau and De­ Munn in Vegas, New Mexico, on November 13, panies of troops.1 One was under the 1817, and the knowledge that a party 1821. This diary has lain untranslated command of Pedro Ignacio Gallego of of Americans (McKnight) even then and unappreciated in the Mexican Abiquiú. Originally dispatched against were languishing in the dungeons of Archives of New Mexico for over 100 the Navajo, Gallego’s company was Chihuahua, seems to have deterred years. It challenges some previously redirected to investigate the plunder of further adventure in that direction un- held views of Becknell and his expedi- San Miguel by Comanches. It was on til the overthrow of Spanish power in 3 tion. It is presented here with a short November 13, 1821, while following Mexico in 1821.” introductory narrative, annotation of the trail of these Indians, that Gallego its salient points, and commentary on met the Becknell party at Puertocito, In the face of such odds, why did the precise geographical information on Piedra Lumbre Creek, just south of Becknell think he would fare any it pro­vides. present Las Vegas. better? The question of who in Mis- souri knew what about Mexican William Becknell has been credited Several important questions concern- independence, and when they knew with being the “Father of the Santa ing Becknell’s exploit continue to it, is unclear. Becknell, in advertising Fe Trade,” having initiated success- surface. For example, did Becknell for companions with whom to mount ful trading contact and the first legal have prior knowledge that Mexico was an expedition, said only that he was commerce with New Mexico from the about to lift its trade restrictions (or headed westward. Consequently, his- United States in 1821 and, the follow- knowledge of the Mexican revolution torians have advanced several explana- ing year, opening a wagon route later for independence from Spain which tions. Josiah Gregg, in The Commerce of

16 Wagon Tracks November 2020 the Prairies (1844), took Becknell’s ad- rebellion in Mexico and the Plan of eastern Colorado in mid-November; vertisement at face value and asserted Iguala as early as May 1821.9 By early from there Glenn and four compan- that he actually intended to trade with September New Mexico had reports ions went on to Taos and Santa Fe. 11 plains Indians and "accidentally” fell of widespread support for Iturbide, in with "a party of Mexican rangers.”4 though his forces did not occupy It is interesting to note that all of Mexico City until September 27. Chi- these men, Becknell included, had Max Moorhead, who edited a later huahua had joined the revolt during financial difficulties at the time. Sim- edition of Gregg’s book, echoed Gregg the summer and, under orders from plistically put, trade with and trapping in New Mexico’s Royal Road (1958). In Durango, Governor Melgares in Santa in New Mexico may have represented Moorhead’s rendition, “Becknell . . . Fe administered an oath of loyalty to a chance for them to recoup their meant only to hunt, trap, capture wild the new government on September fortunes. They may have been desper- horses, and barter with the Coman- 11. News of Iturbide’s occupation ate enough to take the risk of being che.” After ten weeks on the plains, of Mexico City reached Santa Fe by rebuffed or even incarcerated in New Moorhead stated that Becknell and November 30, but Governor Melgares Mexico. If that is the case, some of his men “happened upon a detach- did nothing to mark independence them did find treasure at the end of ment of troops from New Mexico.” until ordered to do so in a dispatch this particular rainbow. This interpretation was long accepted, which he received on December 26. although Henry Inman, so notoriously Meanwhile, Becknell arrived in Santa Beachum ascertained that “Becknell’s inaccurate about so much of the lore Fe on November 16, 1821. financial problems culminated in at of the Santa Fe Trail, concluded in his least five law suits ... in late 1821 and late 19th-century book that Becknell, Becknell’s biographer, Larry M. Bea- the first months of 1822, all while he after trading the previous year with chum (writing in 1982), declared, was on his westward journey.” Thus, the Comanche, “determined the next without citing any document as proof, he concluded, “Becknell’s journey season to change his objective point to that in 1821 “Becknell was also aware west was clearly an act of despera- Santa Fe.”5 that a new revolt had begun in Mex- tion. He was hundreds of dollars in ico.” Beachum concluded that “Beck- debt and his salt business was in ru- In his Opening the Santa Fe Trail nell’s arrival in New Mexico seems to ins….Everything he cherished was at (1971), Marc Simmons also advanced have been no accident; he prepared as stake.” From a financial perspective, the view that Becknell planned all thoroughly as possible with that end Becknell’s first venture to Santa Fe along to go to Santa Fe. In so doing in mind.” Whether hints of Mexican brought relief. Beachum noted that he inaugurated contemporary debate independence circulated in Missouri “Becknell returned from New Mexico on Becknell. Simmons concluded that, during the spring of 1821 might be with enough valuables to repay at least 12 “an assessment of available evidence determined by a close examination part of his debts.” The profit motive clearly shows that Captain Becknell of regional newspapers. Simmons must have been an important factor in intended from the very first to visit claimed that “between February 24 Becknell’s first trip, as well as his sec- 6 the New Mexico settlements.” As and the following June 25 when Beck- ond trip to Santa Fe in 1822. David J. Weber noted, with this essay nell published his advertisement [for “Simmons argues…an interesting men to accompany him), more than Weber advanced one further interpre- new interpretation that subsequent sufficient time had elapsed for news to tation on the question of how those 7 writers cannot ignore.” reach Missouri of the state of Mexican three parties that arrived in Santa Fe affairs.”10 in late 1821 and early 1822 may have Weber also contributed to the inquiry learned about Mexican independence. through his many perceptive publica- Becknell, who left Franklin, Missouri, He suggested that all three may have tions on New Mexico and the South- on September 1, was not the only encountered New Mexicans on the west. In one article, he attempted to trader to set out for New Mexico that plains and thereby heard of the lifting determine the dates when the Spanish year, suggesting some general concep- of trade restrictions. In Becknell’s case, government in Santa Fe knew offi- tion of changing conditions in Santa however, Weber may have misread cially of Mexican independence and, Fe. An expedition under John McK- Becknell’s journal. Becknell reported hence, of the lifting of trade restric- night and Thomas James headed down his first encounter with New Mexi- 8 tions. The last in a series of revolts the Mississippi from St. Louis on May cans on November 13. As the Gallego against Spanish rule in Mexico came 10, and thence went up the Arkansas. diary indicates, this meeting was at under Augustin de Iturbide early in This group arrived in Santa Fe two Puertocito near present Las Vegas, not 1821. Iturbide embodied his con- weeks after Becknell. Jacob Fowler on the Arkansas as Weber would have 13 servative vision of an independent and Hugh Glenn, with another party, it. Mexico in his Plan of Iguala, Febru- left Glenn’s trading house on the Ver- ary 24, 1821. Weber noted that New digris River in east central Oklahoma Another debatable aspect of Becknell’s Mexicans had some inkling of new on September 25 and reached south- first trip to New Mexico, as noted

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 17 above, has concerned the possible route Becknell next said that two days later advice.17 But perhaps the only tangible the party followed. The Gallego diary his band crossed the Canadian River, and most valuable item Becknell could is quite precise on locations concerning which also had rugged cliffs which they take to show the way would have been Becknell’s party as far north as the Rio overcame with considerable difficulty. Zebulon M. Pike’s “Chart of the Inter- Colorado (Canadian River) in New Two days south of the Raton Moun- nal Part of Louisiana.” This map was Mexico. Gallego himself marched from tains would put Becknell’s party at a published with Pike’s account in 1810. Abiquiú to Bosque de Santo Domingo location east of the Canadian River, If Becknell’s intention was to enter on the Rio Grande, then crossed to where the only difficulty in crossing the Santa Fe for trade, Pike’s account of his Galisteo and San Miguel del Vado. river with horses was the quicksand in 1807 adventures in Mexico and his de- From there he traveled to Ojo de Ber- the river bottom. Perhaps Becknell had scription of the route would have been nal and Puertocito de la Piedra Lum- misidentified the Canadian and was required reading. In fact, Jacob Fowler bre, where he met Becknell. He and his actually crossing a different stream. The of the Glenn-Fowler expedition, hard men then attempted to trace Becknell’s third problem is that after surmounting on the heels of Becknell in 1821, was trail. They followed it north past the the cliffs and crossing what he called carrying either Pike’s map or his book Mora and Sapello rivers but lost it at the Canadian River, Becknell recorded which included the map.18 the Rio Colorado. This information, that his party encamped a night with- along with a careful reading of Beck- out wood and water. That was unlikely A comparison of Becknell’s Journal nell’s journal, helps to better determine if they did cross the Canadian, but it with Pike’s map shows that both par- Becknell’s route and, perhaps, to cor- was possible if Becknell had labeled ties crossed to the south side of the rect an error that has dominated Trail another river, as will be suggested be- Arkansas in the vicinity of Great Bend, literature for more than 60 years. low, as the Canadian. Given the terrain Kansas, and continued up the river. A and other information gleaned from notation on Pike’s map stated: “Above In 1930 Robert L. Duffus published Becknell’s journal, it is improbable that the first Fork of the Arkansaw the a book, The Santa Fe Trail, a popular Becknell’s party had come over Raton bank becomes very rough which altho’ overview of the history of the route. Pass. narrow (the fork) carries a quantity While Duffus summarized in excellent of water of a red colour, and is the prose the available information about When the pieces do not all fit together, left branch of the Arkansaw, which the Trail, he also repeated some errors perhaps another route is more plau- connects with the Red River of the and made some uninformed supposi- sible. Because of the general nature Mississippi, which is extremely easy tions. One of those suppositions was of Becknell’s journal, any suggested distinguishable in ascending; as from that Becknell’s party had entered New alternate routing must be somewhat a few miles above nearly in a paral- Mexico via Raton Pass.14 He apparent- speculative. But the available evidence lel line, is a high Ridge bearing off at ly assumed that Becknell followed in strongly indicates that Becknell and his right angles from the main River.”19 1821 what became known many years five men, if they were indeed headed Becknell, describing his course, used later as the Mountain Route of the for Santa Fe, took a route other than terms similar to those of Pike. This

Trail. Such a conclusion, however, was Raton Pass between the Arkansas first fork, or left20 branch, was the Pur- not consistent with either Becknell’s River and Puertocito Piedra Lumbre. gatoire River. Becknell headed south journal or the landscape. Nor is that The following excerpts from Becknell’s up the Purgatoire River, it being the conjecture consistent with the recently- journal, accompanied by an innovative left branch of the Arkansas. He kept discovered Gallego’s diary. interpretation of the evidence of the to the left, following Chacuaco Creek, way his party headed south from the a tributary of the Purgatoire. On Oc- Had Becknell crossed into New Mex- Arkansas River, may shed some light tober 26 the group saw large flocks of ico at Raton Pass, his journey to where on Becknell’s route and, at the same mountain sheep which were described he met Captain Gallego would most time, set the stage for the significance in the journal. Then they encountered likely have been along the eastern side of Gallego’s diary. the cliffs. of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. There are several major problems with Becknell Journal: “On the 21st we ar- Becknell Journal: “We had now some that routing. First, where Robert Duf- rived at the forks of the river, and took the cliffs to ascend, which presented difficulties

fus had Becknell crossing Raton Pass, course of the left hand one. The cliffs be- almost insurmountable, and we were la- Becknell in his journal15 stated that he came immensely high, and the aspect of the boriously engaged nearly two days in roll- had insurmountable cliffs to ascend. country is rugged, wild and dreary.” ing away large rocks, before we attempted On his way into Santa Fe on the same to get our horses up, and even then one fell journey, Becknell says that he crossed Becknell, in preparation for his jour- and was bruised to death.” mountainous country. Why did he, if ney, met with others at the home of he was at the Raton Mountains, say he Ezekiel Williams. When employed by As the cliffs lining the creek began to 16 only had cliffs to ascend? Manuel Lisa, Williams had been out close in, Becknell realized he had to on the Plains and could give valuable get out of the creek valley. Only the

18 Wagon Tracks November 2020 year before, Major Stephen Long and Becknell Journal: “Nov. 1st, we experi- gons up some high and rocky cliffs his party, on an exploring expedition enced a keen northwest wind, accompa- by hand.” Gregg’s 1844 Map of the to determine the sources of the Red nied with some snow. Having been now Indian Territory, which was included River, went up Chacuaco Creek to traveling about fifty days ... our horses in Commerce of the Prairies, shows the where they “arrived at a part of the are so reduced that we only travel from routing of the “First wagon Route to valley beyond which it was found im- eight to fifteen miles per day. We found Santa Fe.”25 That route cut south from possible to penetrate.”21 Long’s party game scarce near the mountains, and one Cold Spring, passed south of Rabbit had to backtrack and were finally able night encamped without food or water. Ears, crossed Ute Creek, and crossed with great difficulty to emerge from On the 4th, and several subsequent days, the Canadian in the vicinity of what the canyon. Becknell apparently had found the country more level and pleas- is now Conchas Lake. There are deep the same experience. ant discovered abundance of iron ore, canyons along both Ute Creek and the and saw many wild horses.” Canadian. However, the most likely Becknell Journal: “At length we had the candidate for Becknell’s “Rock River” gratification of finding ourselves on the Traveling southwest from the crossing is the Canadian. And, although Gregg open plain; and two days travel brought of the Dry Cimarron, Becknell and his is not always completely accurate, a us to the Canadian fork, whose rugged party would have passed through an crossing here was indicated by the cliffs again threatened to interrupt our area of old volcanoes, lava flows, and Marmaduke Journal of 1824.26 The passage, which we finally effected with intrusive peaks. Such features would crossing in the vicinity of present Con- considerable difficulty.” include Sierra Grande, Capulin Volca- chas Lake was a traditional gateway to no, Laughlin Peak, Palo Blanco Peak, the plains long before Becknell came Once out of the canyon of Chacuaco Eagle Tail Mountain, Tinaja Peak, through, and a road crossed there as Creek, there is indeed a plain which Sugar Loaf Mountain, and Johnson late as 1877.27 That he crossed it far- is fairly level. Depending on where Mesa-Raton Mountains in the north- ther upstream in 1821 was, perhaps, a party left the creek and how many ern background. In this area there are an indication that Becknell, as he miles it traveled per day, it was pos- places where wood was scarce and should have, recognized the Canadian sible to spend two days traveling to in November some creeks were dry. both above and below its great canyon. the Dry Cimarron River. Becknell They probably crossed the Canadian apparently came to the Dry Cimarron River north of the Rock Crossing (or The corridor through which Becknell and called it the Canadian, an error possibly at the Rock Crossing itself ), traveled between the Arkansas River that had been made before. Edwin heading for the Sangre de Cristo and the point where he met Gallego James, a member of the 1820 Stephen Mountains which would have been in had been used before. In 1706, Juan H. Long exploring expedition, had sight for several days. The mountains de Ulibarri on his way to El Cuartelejo called the Dry Cimarron “the most would have been a natural target, crossed the Dry Cimarron in the same remote sources of the great northern since Becknell and his men knew they vicinity as did Long and Becknell. In 22 tributary of the Canadian river.” If would have to cross this range to reach 1804 and again in 1805, Pedro Vial the Long party misnamed the Dry Santa Fe. It is also likely that they were on his way to the Pawnee Villages Cimarron, Becknell could have made looking for the “gap” in the mountains forded the Dry Cimarron in the same the same mistake. John M. Tucker, in and the trail which would lead them vicinity.28 The Hugh Glenn-Jacob his description of Long’s route, related to Taos and on to Santa Fe. Fowler and Thomas James expeditions, (with a quotation from the report) the which arrived in Santa Fe in 1821 on difficulties that party had in crossing Becknell Journal: “After several days’ de- the heels of Becknell, joined together the Dry Cimarron: They “arrived at scent towards Rock river, on Monday the to journey home in 1822. They left the cliff bounding the south side of 12th we struck a trail, and found several from Taos, passed through the Sangre the valley at a distance of 3 miles from other indications which induced us to be- de Cristo Mountains, and headed their camp. This "mural barrier" they lieve that the inhabitants had here herded northeast. They skirted the mesas at found impassable "except at particular their cattle and sheep. Timber, consisting the head waters of the Dry Cimarron, points; where it is broken by ravines. of pine and cottonwood, is more plentiful forded the Purgatoire, and camped One of these we were fortunate in than we have found it for some time.” on Chacuaco Creek, before heading finding without being compelled northeast across the country. Thus, if to deviate greatly from our course, Becknell’s Rock River was most likely Becknell asked Ezekiel Williams how and climbing its rugged declivity, we the modern Canadian River. He does to get to Santa Fe (which he surely did emerged upon the broad expanse of not mention crossing Rock River in if he intended to go there), Williams 23 the high plain." Thus Long’s dif- 1821, but the next year, when bringing might have told him to follow the ficulty in crossing the Dry Cimarron wagons across the Trail, he reported Arkansas River, take the left fork and was matched by Becknell’s difficulty in that the “greatest difficulty was in the keep to the left branch, cross the Ca- crossing the Dry Cimarron and each vicinity of Rock river, where we were nadian (Dry Cimarron) fork and head called it the Canadian.24 under the necessity of taking our wag-

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 19 southwest to the mountains, follow happened. 4 p.m. Nothing further to report. a creek to the gap in the mountains, and cross over to Taos. The corridor 3. . . Departed from the Cuesta del 7. . . Left Galisteo at about 4 a.m. in through which Becknell and his men Cuerpo Espin at about 5 a.m. The the usual manner and with the usual probably passed into New Mexico company proceeded in the accus- arrangement of the company. Halted had been in use for over a hundred tomed manner until about 6 p.m. and at about 8 a.m. in the Cañon de San 37 46 years.29 halted at the Vallecito de las lndios. Cristobal de Sortiada. Resumed Nothing further to report. marching at about 2 p.m., stopping at By November 13, 1821, Becknell, a the Mesa del Oja de la Baca.47 Noth- desperate man with dreams of riches 4. . . Began marching from the Valle- ing further to report. in Santa Fe, had brought his small cito de los Indios about 4 a.m. Trav- party of tired, dirty, and discour- eled in the usual formation to the 8... Left the Mesa del Ojo de la Baca 38 aged men into the province of New Pueblo of Xemez, stopping at about at about 6 a.m. and halted at about 2 48 Mexico. On that day they met New 5 p.m. Nothing further to report. A p.m. at Poblacion del Vado. Noth- Mexican troops under command of soldier, Jose Francisco Sanchez, of the ing further to report. Militia Urbana Captain Pedro Igna- militia company from San Buenaven- 39 cio Gallego. Gallego’s brief diary of tura, presented himself with an of- 9. . . At Poblacion del Vado. About noon we were reunited with compa- his activities, so long buried, reveals ficial communication from Governor 40 nies from Jemez, Alameda49 —with a new perspective and additional de- Don Facundo Melgares, requesting 41 tails on that historic encounter and that I proceed to El Vado with my 77 men, and Santa Fe—with 45 men. 42 the opening of the Santa Fe trade. company. Nothing more to report. Nothing further occurred the rest of this day. Later we were reunited with Diary of Pedro Ignacio Gallego30 5. . . Began marching from the Pueb- 50 cavalrymen of the garrison. lo of Xemez in the direction of El A diary, kept by Captain of the Mi- Vado in compliance with the order 10... At Poblacion del Vado. On this 31 day I relieved from duty 20 men of litia Urbana, Don Pedro Ignacio from Governor Don Facundo Mel- Gallego,32 of an expedition undertak- gares, dated October 29, 1821. Halt- the cavalry garrison. en at the command of the political ed at the Bosque of Santo Domingo43 chief of the Province of New Mexico, a· little after 3 p.m. About 4 p.m. 11... Halted this day at Poblacion del Governor Don Facundo Melgares, Manuel Chavez, commander of the Vado awaiting orders. Nothing fur- commencing at the Plaza of San company from Rio Arriba, informed ther to report. 33 Raphael de Abiquiú, from the day me that a member of his company, 12... About noon I ordered all the indicated in the present year, Novem- Diego Gonzales, wounded Jose Lu- cavalrymen to assemble in the Plaza, ber 2, 1821. cero by throwing a hat at him. I sent to march into the wilderness50 with the Second Lieutenant of the Militia 2. . . At about 3 a.m. on this morning, my company, consisting of a force of Urbana, Don Jose Manuel Salazar, 445 men: 123 armed with guns and in obedience to superior orders, the and the Corporal of the company of horses, kept according to instructions, the rest with bows and arrows. [We volunteer militia, Miguel Quintana, had] 356 pack animals. I gave general were rounded up and prepared for to look at the wound. They swore the march, with the company of 148 orders to the commanders of the to me and said that having thrown various companies. Halted at Ojo de men under my command. These men the hat, Diego Gonzales then punc- 51 include those who should observe BernaI at about 4 p.m. Nothing fur- tured Jose Lucero in the chest with ther occurred.52 general written orders given by the the point of a flint. Diego Gonzales commanders of the various company turned himself in to the Sergeant Jose 13... Left Ojo de Bernal about 9 a.m. divisions, and men appointed for Maria Sandoval and was arrested and Followed the usual formation. About service, assigned as follows: Company imprisoned. 3:30 p.m. encountered six Americans No. 1, militia men and citizens from 34 at the Puertocito de la Piedra Lum- Cañada, to guard the cattle, under 6. . . Began marching from the bre.53 They parleyed with me and at the command of Second Lieutenant Bosque of Santo Domingo about 5 about 4 p.m. we halted at the stream Don Jose Manuel Salazar; Company a.m. Left behind two sick people, the at Piedra Lumbre.54 Not understand- No. 2, 25 men from the central citizen wounded by Diego Gonzales 35 ing their words nor any of the signs Rio Arriba, acting as vanguard. The and an Indian from Santa Clara who they made, I decided to return to El company halted at the Cuesta del is ill. Turned them over to Diego 36 Vado, in the service of your excel- Cuerpo Espin a little after 5 p.m. Martin, a citizen of Cañada, with lency.55 At this point Vicente Vil- Nothing further occurred. At 6 p.m. orders to keep them in his care or 56 44 lanueva presented himself. Nothing the Alcalde, Don Jose Jaramillo, ap- turn them over to the Alcalde of further occurred. peared with 63 men. Nothing more Cañada. Halted at Galisteo45 at about

20 Wagon Tracks November 2020 [Becknell Journal: “On Tuesday morn- to follow the trail of the foreigners. to hunt some buffalo which could be ing the 13th, we had the satisfaction of Halted at about 4 p.m. at the Rito del seen at the edge of the river.74 Forty meeting with a party of Spanish troops. Capulin,64 where Corporal Lucero men went on the hunt and provided

Although the difference of our language was camped with his detachment. He the camp royally with meat. After trav- would not admit of conversation, yet the lost the trail at the Rio Colorado.65 eling about 4 leagues, we lost the trail circumstances attending their reception At the ford of the Rito del Capulin I halfway between the Sierra Grande of us, fully convinced us of their hospitable noticed traces of the Indians who at- and the Jicara.75 disposition and friendly feelings. Being tacked El Vado. likewise in a strange country, and subject The remainder of the diary is missing to their disposition, our wishes lent their 17... Left El Rito del Capulin at from the Archives. aid to increase our confidence in their about 5 a.m., dividing the men with NOTES manifestations of kindness. The discipline the horses under Sergeant Antonio of the officers was strict, and the subjec- Garcia, with orders to cut across the 1. John P. Wilson, Military Cam- tion of the men appeared almost servile. land to where the foreigners might paigns in the Navajo Country, North- 66 We encamped with them that night, and have come through. Halted at El western New Mexico, 1800-1846 (Santa Aguague del Lobo67 at about 4 p.m., Fe: Museum of New Mexico Press, the next day about 1 o’clock, arrived at 1967), 12·13. the Village of St. Michael, the conduct of where I again encountered traces of whose inhabitants gave us grateful evi- the same Indians who plundered El 2. Frank B. Godley, “James Baird, dence of civility and welcome.”] Vado. At about 5 p.m. we reunited Early Santa Fe Trader,” The Bulletin of the with the detachment under the Ser- Missouri Historical Society, 3 (April 1959): 14. . . This day about 1:30 a.m. Vicente geant mentioned above, who did not 171-193; & George S. Ulibarri,“The Chouteau-DeMunn Expedition of New Villanueva presented himself to me find evidence of the trail. Nothing fur- Mexico, 1815-1817,” New Mexico Histori- with five citizens of El Vado, to serve ther occurred. cal Review (hereafter NMHR), 36 (Oct as an interpreter. Learning nothing 1961): 263-273. 18... Left El Aguague del Lobo at new I left them [the Americans] with 3. him, to present themselves to your about 6 a.m., dividing a party of 150 Hiram M. Chittenden, The American Fur Trade of the Far West (2 vols.; reprint; excellency.57 Then, at about 6 a.m. I infantry under Juan Lucero, ordering 68 New York: R. R. Wilson, 1936), II, 148. resumed my march, separating a party him to go up the Mesa de Rayado to 4. of 100 men under Corporal Lucero,58 identify all the places where the Indi- Josiah Gregg, The Commerce of the with the intention of following the trail ans might hide. Halted at El Ojo de la Prairies, ed. by Milo M. Quaife (Lincoln: 69 University of Nebraska Press, 1967.) 6-7. of the Americans. Halted at about 3 Mesa de Rayado about noon. About p.m. at the Cañon del Pecos59 and at 6 p.m. we reunited with the party un- 5. Max L Moorhead, New Mexico’s about 4 p.m. the party under Corporal der Corporal Lucero, who did not find Royal Road, Trade and Travel on the Lucero returned, having lost the trail any sign of the Indians on the mesa. Chihuahua Trail (Norman, University of Nothing further to report. Oklahoma Press, 1958), 60; & Henry In- of the Americans at the falls of the man, The Old Santa Fe Trail, the Story ofa Rio del Sapello.60 Nothing further oc- 19... Left El Ojo de la Mesa de Great Highway (Topeka: Crane & Com- curred. pany, 1899), 38. Inman, characteristically, Rayado at about 5 a.m. Reunited the had the date of Becknell’s expedition 15 ... Left the Cañon del Pecos at whole company and halted on the Rio wrong, having him depart in 1812. 70 about 5 a.m. in good order, detaching a Colorado at about 4 p.m., where I 6. Marc Simmons, Opening the Santa Fe party of 100 men under Corporal Lu- encountered the trail of the Indians. Trail (Cerrillos: Galisteo Press, 1971), 3. cero with orders to follow the trail of Nothing further to report. the foreigners. Halted at about 4 p.m. 7. David J. Weber, ed., “William Beck- 20... Left the Rio Colorado at 6 a.m. nell as a Mountain Man: Two Letters,” at the point where the Rio Sapello 71 joins with the Mora.61 A little after 4 in the direction of the Sierra Grande, NMHR, 46 ( July 1971): 259 fn1.

following the trail of the Indians, and 8. p.m. the party under Corporal Lucero 72 David J. Weber, “An Unforgettable rejoined us; he traced the trail of the halted at Los Cerritos del Aire about Day: Facundo Melgares on Indepen- foreigners to a point below the Sierra 4 p.m. Nothing further to report. dence; NMHR, 48 ( January 1973): 27-44. 62 de la Gallina. The trail of the “hos- 21... Left Los Cerritos del Aire about 9. Ibid., 29. tiles” [Indians] who threaten us runs 5 a.m. Traveled one league; about half 10. Larry M. Beachum, William Becknell: in a northerly direction to the gap in 63 way the Sergeant of the rear guard Father of the Santa Fe Trade (El Paso: Texas the Sierra de Taos. Nothing further came and reported two animals were Western Press, 1982), 21-22; & Simmons, occurred. worn out. About 2 leagues further Opening the Santa Fe Trail, 3. 11. on the commander of the company Thomas James, Three Years Among the 16 . . . Began marching this day about 73 6 a.m., separating the party of 100 men from Rio Abajo, Don Eutivio Real, Mexicans and Indians (Chicago: The Rio under Corporal Lucero with orders presented himself, asking permission Grande Press, 1962); & Harry R. Stevens, “A Company of Hands and Traders:

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 21 Origins of the Glenn Fowler Expedition sity of Nebraska Press, 1970), 47. 28. James H. Gunnerson, “Docu- of 1821-1822,” NMHR, 46 ( July 1971): mentary Clues and Northeastern New 19. 181-221. Donald Jackson, ed., The Journals of Mexico Archeology,” New Mexico Ar- Zebulon Montgomery Pike with Letters 12. cheological Council Proceedings, VI, 48- Beachum, William Becknell, 22-23, and Related Documents, Vol. I (Norman: 56, 68-72, gives convincing evidence 33. University of Oklahoma Press, 1966), of the route of Ulibarri and Vial. Vial’s map between 388 & 389. 13. David J. Weber, The Taos Trappers, journals are more accessible in Noel M. Loomis and Abraham P. Nasatir, the Fur Trade in the Far Southwest, 1540- 20. Ibid., 349 fn132. 1846 (Norman: University of Oklahoma Pedro Vial and the Roads to Santa Fe Press, 1971), 53; & Weber, The Mexi- 21. John M. Tucker, “Major Long’s (Norman: University of Oklahoma can Frontier, 1821-1846, the American Route from the Arkansas to the Ca- Press, 1967), 428-438, & Abraham P. Southwest under Mexico (Albuquerque: nadian River, 1820,” NMHR, 38 ( July Nasatir, “More on Pedro Vial in Upper University of New Mexico Press, 1982), 1963): 195-196, quoting from the ac- Louisiana.” The Spanish in the Missis- 126, 128. count of Edwin James who accompa- sippi Valley, 1762-1804, ed. by John F. nied the expedition. McDermott (Urbana: University of 14. Robert L. Duffus, The Santa Fe Illinois Press, 1974), 100-119. Trail (New York: Longmans, Green and 22. Ibid., 202. 29. Co., 1930), 68. Duffus was apparently While this seems convincing evi- the first to propose that Becknell crossed 23. Ibid., 205. dence of Becknell’s route, the authors would like to hear differing views. over Raton Pass. Almost all others who 24. In all fairness it must be noted that 30. have written since have accepted this both Jacob Fowler and Thomas James Thediary is found in the routing without question. Duffus’s book in 1821 and 1822 identified correctly Mexican Archives of New Mexico remains an excellent overview of the the Canadian River. Both started from (MANM), Twitchell Collection, #3 & Trail. the Arkansas River generally between 120, New Mexico State Records Cen- ter and Archives (NMS­ RCA), Santa 15. Becknell’s Journal has been Fort Smith and Fort Gibson. This is Fe, New Mexico. The editors express published several times since its first the area where the Canadian River their sincere thanks to the translation appearance in the Missouri Intelligencer, flows into the Arkansas River. James team of Michael Olsen and Charles April 22, 1823. These include Missouri identified the river early in his journey Truxillo, New Mexico Highlands Uni- Historical Society Collections, 2, 57-75; to Santa Fe, and Fowler identified it versity, Las Vegas, NM; Jan Garcia, Las [William Becknell), “The Journals of in 1822 coming over the mountains Vegas, NM; Lucy Romo, Fort Union Capt. Thomas Becknell from Boone’s just west of Rayado. Each may have National Monument; and Richard Lick to Santa Fe, and from Santa Cruz had the correct information by virtue Salazar, New Mexico State Records to Green River, Missouri Historical of being or residing near its mouth Center and Archives, Santa Fe, NM. Review, 4 (January 1910): 65-84; & and information from various Indians. Coues, Journal of Jacob Fowler. 117; & Archer Hulbert, ed., Southwest on the 31. The “Urban Militia” was an elite James, Three Years Among the Mexicans Turquoise Trail, the First Diaries on the unit, “theoretically controlled and and the Indians, 106. Road to Santa Fe (Colorado Springs: funded by the national government, Stewart Commission of Colorado Col- 25. “Map of the Indian Territory, [which] functioned as a reserve force lege and Denver Public Library, 1933), Northern Texas, and New Mexico for the regular army.” Weber, The Mexi- 56-68. The quotations from the journal showing the Great Western Prairies, can Frontier, 116. For this expedition, included here are from the Missouri His- by Josiah Gregg,” in Josiah Gregg, the militia was joined by other New torical Review (1910), although the other Commerce of the Prairies, also published Mexican and Indian volunteer units, editions contain the same journal entries. separately by the Santa Fe Trail As- which was the usual procedure. Wilson, 16. Manuel Lisa was an early fur sociation, 1990. Military Campaigns, 12-13. trader and partner in the St. Louis- 32. 26. Hulbert, Southwest on the Tur- Gallego was Alcalde of Abiquiú Missouri Fur Company. Among many quoise Trail, 74. Hulbert stated that, on at least from 1816 to 1832. In early other activities, he attempted to open July 22, Marmaduke was at Las Vegas 1822, Gallego was chosen as an elec- trade with Santa Fe in 1812. Ezekiel because he mentioned being at Juan tor to help choose the first legislative Williams was part of the party Lisa Peno’s. Las Vegas had no permanent body of New Mexico, and in 1826 he sent toward Santa Fe. Along the way residents in 1824, but a Juan Pino was was elected a member of the Territo- Indians attacked them and killed all having sheep herded on the land for rial Deputation. Malcolm Ebright, except Williams. which he applied for a grant. The area “Manuel Martinez’s Ditch Dispute: A Study in Mexican Period Custom and 17. Beachum, William Becknell, 19; and of the grant was to the west of the Justice,· NMHR, 54 ( January 1979), Weber, The Taos Trappers, 44. crossing and present-day Conchas Lake, near Pino Spring and Pino 27; Spanish Archives of New Mexico 18. Fowler, while traveling up the Ar- Creek in San Miguel County. G. Em- (SANM) I, Twitchell No. 1061, SANM kansas on November 13, passed a fork in len Hall, "Juan Estevan Pino, ‘Se Los 11, Twitchell No. 2688, NMSRCA; the river and in his journal commented Coma’: New Mexico Land Speculation & Rev. Lansing Bartlett Bloom, “New that he supposed it to be “Pikes first in the 1820s,” NMHR, 57 ( January Mexico under Mexican Administration forke.” Unless he had the map memo- 1982): 31. 1821-1846,” Old Santa Fe, I (Oct 1913 & Jan. 1914): 146, 246. rized, this is strong evidence that he had 27. the map in hand. Elliott Coues, ed., The Wheeler Map, sheet No. 78 (A), 33. which essentially is the Las Vegas sheet. Abiquiú is located in Rio Arriba Journal of Jacob Fowler (Lincoln: Univer- County, on the Chama River, about 40

22 Wagon Tracks November 2020 miles northwest of Santa Fe. 41. “The Ford” was San Miguel del second week of May 1821. They, too, were Vado located on the Pecos River. This tracking Indians. Salazar encountered both 34. A 1779 map shows a jurisdiction “ford” was used long before Coronado wandering cattle and cattlemen in this vi- (Alcaldia) of Cañada and a town named first entered the country in 1540. San cinity. Diary of Captain Francisco Salazar, Santa Cruz de la Cañada. It is likely that Miguel, as it is better known, was settled SANM II, Twitchell No. 2978, NMSRCA. these troops were from the town, which by Indians and Mestizos in 1790 and, in Santa Fe. was the second established in New 1821, was the eastern frontier town of Mexico by De Vargas in 1695. Miera y 53. “Puertocito” is known today as New Mexico. Pacheco map of 1779 in Alfred B. Thomas, Kearny Gap, about two miles south of Forgotten Frontiers: A Study of the Span- 42. A search of the SANM and MANM Las Vegas. “Piedra Lumbre” (flint stone) ish Indian Policy of Don Juan Bautista de at the NMSRCA has not produced this creek is called today Agua Zara through Anza, Governor of New Mexico 1777-1787 document. There is, however, a document the gap. There has been much speculation (Norman: University of Oklahoma Press. which is attributed to Melgares, dated about the size of Becknell’s group. Ralph 1932), 86. October 29, 1821, which seems to be only a E. Twitchell thought there were five men second page. altogether, while Marc Simmons has put 35. “Central Upper River’" would have 43. the number as high as thirty. Twitchell, been in the vicinity of the Rio Grande “The Bosque of San Domingo” was Leading Facts, II, 103; & Simmons, Open- north and west of Santa Fe. Ibid. undoubtedly at the Santo Domingo ing the Santa Fe Trail, 2. With only five Pueblo on the Rio Grande, 25 miles other men, Becknell was lucky he did not 36. Porcupine Hill or Peak. southwest of Santa Fe. encounter Indians. This is another point 37. “Little Valley of the Indians,” is 13 44. Alcaldes headed municipal districts, which emphasizes that Becknell was miles northeast of Jemez Pueblo. T. M. or alcaldias, of which there were fourteen bound for Santa Fe. Ezekiel Williams Pearce, ed., New Mexico Place Names (Al- in New Mexico in 1822. Weber, Mexican undoubtedly would have warned Becknell buquerque: University of New Mexico Frontier, 19. about the danger to his small party from Press, 1965), 174. Indians who could easily overwhelm them. 45. Galisteo is about 20 miles south of 38. 54. Gallego probably moved east through Jemez Pueblo is about 50 miles Santa Fe. directly west of Santa Fe. the gap and met Becknell and his party on 46. “San Cristobal Canyon” runs east the plains. If they returned to the gap to 39. Chimayo (east of Espanola) was from Galisteo. camp, it was probably on the western side known as San Buenaventura de Chimayo. where there was wood for fires and shelter 47. The militia unit was probably from there, “Vaca Spring on the mesa” is about by the Crestone. perhaps comprising part of the group from 20 miles southeast of Santa Fe. 55. With these words. Gallego was prob- central Rio Arriba. San Buenaventura was 48. The command marched from Vaca ably disobeying an order from Melgares, also the name of the church at Cochiti Spring over Glorieta Mesa to the present- thinking that this was important enough Pueblo, and the volunteers could possibly day town of Rowe, and followed the Pecos to do so and that he would be forgiven. have been from there. River Valley to the “frontier town” of San 56. Vicente Villanueva was Alcalde at 40. Miguel del Vado. Facundo Melgares, a native of San Miguel del Vado in 1818. SANM II, Spain, was no stranger to the Great 49. Alameda is about seven miles north Twitchell No. 2755, NMS­ RCA. Plains and American incursions into of Albuquerque. It was a Spanish settle- 57. New Mexico. In 1806, in anticipation Becknell found a “Frenchman” in San ment at the time. of Zebulon Montgomery Pike’s expe- Miguel who could interpret for him and dition, Melgares led a detachment of 50. The“wilderness” was the eastern accompanied the group of Americans into 500 troops and over 2,000 horses and plains of New Mexico. Santa Fe, where Becknell arrived on the mules which ranged as far north and 16th. He had an interview with Governor 51. east as the Pawnee nations between Bernal Spring is about 25 miles Melgares who said he would like to see the Kansas and Platte rivers. Melgares southwest of Las Vegas, present town of more American trade. Bernal, New Mexico. also ultimately commanded the troops 58. Corporal Juan Lucero was no ordi- who accompanied Pike to Chihuahua. 52. Becknell recorded that on Nov. 12, nary soldier. He accompanied Pedro Vial Pike had a high opinion of him, as did “[W]e struck a trail, and found several to Natchitoches in 1788 at a young age, Becknell, who found him “to be well in- other indications which induced us to perhaps 15 or 16. He was with Vial on his formed and gentlemanly in manners; his believe that the inhabitants have here attempted expedition to the Pawnees in demeanor was courteous and friendly.” herded their cattle and sheep." There 1805, was sent to make peace with the Kio- Melgares was governor (or interim were no settlements east of San Miguel was in late 1805, returned to the Kiowas governor) of New Mexico from 1818 to in 1621, though pastoralists from twice in 1806, met with the Cuampe and 1822. Ralph E. Twitchell, Leading Facts there tried but failed to establish a new Flecha Rayada tribes in 1807 near present- of New Mexico History, 2 vols. (Cedar community on the Gallinas River near day Colorado Springs, Colorado, was on Rapids: Torch Press, 1911), I, 458, 469, present-day Las Vegas that year. "The an expedition to the Arkansas River from 480; & Zebulon Montgomery Pike, An meadows” of the various river bottoms November 25, 1808, to March 5, 1809, Account of Expeditions to the Sources of throughout this area were frequented by accompanied expeditions to the Coman- the Mississippi, and through the Western herders, as illustrated in the diary of Cap- ches in 1810, 1816, and twice in 1818, and Parts of Louisiana (Philadelphia: C. & tain Francisco Salazar, whose company made a trip to the “Indians” in 1819. He A. Conrad, & Co., 1810), 228-229, 250; of troops was camped near the confluence was described in 1806 as a native of New Becknell Journal, 77. of the Mora and Sapello rivers during the Mexico, “of very good conduct, of spirit and demonstrated valor, of knowledge in

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 23 the field and of a disposition suitable of 65. "Red River" is the present Cana- Updated bio: Olsen has held nearly command; his height, 5 feet, 1 inch; 17 dian River. Although we do not know every office in the SFTA except years, 20 days of service. He knows how exactly where Becknell crossed this President. He retired from NM to read.” It is estimated he was 49 or 50 stream, it was likely between present- in 1821. Lucero was not only a good day Springer and Maxwell, New Highlands in 2002 and currently soldier, but an excellent frontiersman Mexico. lives in Colorado Springs, Colorado. by any standards. Loomis and Nasatir, Myers died in 2010. 66. In essence, Sgt. Garcia was sent Pedro Vial, 449-454; & Alfred B. Thomas, across the Canadian River in the direc- “Documents Bearing upon the Northern [Original bio: Michael Olsen is tion of Laughlin Peak which is about Frontier of New Mexico, 1818-1819,” 13 miles southeast of Capulin, New professor of history at New Mexico NMHR, 4 (April 1929): 156. Mexico. Highlands University at Las Vegas, 59. “Pecos Canyon” is present Pecos and Harry Myers is superintendent 67. The location of “Wolf Spring Arroyo just east of Las Vegas. Gal- (flowing)” is not known. Based on the of Fort Union National Monument. lego probably accompanied Villanueva travel of the next day, it could be placed Both are acknowledged scholars part way back to San Miguel and then about 10 miles south of Rayado on of the Santa Fe Trail and frequent returned to Las Vegas. The reason to what would later be called the Moun- contributors to Wagon Tracks. Their choose present Pecos Arroyo for Gal- tain Route of the Santa Fe Trail, at the lego’s “Cañon del Pecos” is that, during discovery and preparation of this mouth of what today is called Aguaje his expedition, Gallego and the troops significant document is a substantial Canyon. marched an average of 16.8 miles a day contribution to Trail historiography.] or approximately 1.17 miles an hour. 68. Rayado and Gonzalitos Mesas It would be totally out of line to march are prominent landmarks southwest of from the river valley of the Pecos, close Springer, New Mexico, with Rayado to San Miguel, to La Junta in the next Mesa closest to the mountains. day’s travel, a distance of about 38 miles 69. “The Spring of Rayado Mesa” is in one day. at present Miami Lake, about 3.5 miles 60. The diary reads: “las caidas del rio del southeast of Rayado. Sapeyo”. “Caida” can be translated as “falls, 70. They were at a crossing of the drop, or descent." “Rapids” might be the Canadian essentially somewhere be- best translation, even though the location tween Springer and Maxwell. on the Sapello River cannot be pinpoint- 71. ed. The Sapello River heads in the Sangre “Big Mountain,” known as In Search of Articles de Cristo Mountains near Rociada, New Sierra Grande today is about 5 miles slightly southwest of Des Moines, New Mexico, and joins the Mora at present For this bicentennial year, Wagon Watrous, New Mexico. Mexico. They were following the cor- Tracks is looking for articles that 61. ridor of the Indian-Spanish trail to the Present Watrous, New Mexico, plains. explore known as La Junta during Santa Fe 72. “Windy hills” are the Chico Trail days. The Mora River heads • the full spectrum of people in the mountains above Mora, New Hills, just north of Chico and south of traveling the trail, Mexico. Its valley was used to travel Laughlin Peak from Picuris Pueblo over the moun- 73. “Lower River” of the Rio tains and out onto the Plains. • how the Santa Fe Trail fit into Grande, means this company came the big picture of westward ex- 62. from the vicinity of Albuquerque, The “Turkey Mountains” are pansion and Manifest Destiny, about 10 miles north of Watrous. Belen, or was perhaps the group from Alameda. 63. The “gap in the Taos Mountains” • how travelers and the trail in- 74. is where the Rayado River comes out No matter which way traveled, termingled/used other trails of the mountains west of Rayado, New the river has to be present Carrizo which have since been desig- Creek, which was known as Rock Mexico. For most Spanish expeditions nated national historic trails or to the plains, this was where they came Creek in the time of the Santa Fe Trail. may be in the future, out of the mountains from Taos and 75. The “Jicara” was probably a headed for Laughlin Peak. A trail also reference to the Jicarilla River, which is • and the global aspect of trade ran from here to Point of Rocks, New probably present Ponil Creek. Gunner- along the SFT. Mexico, which was used by Cibolleros son, “Documentary Clues,” 57.  and later Santa Fe Trail travelers. If you have an idea for an article, 64. Based on past distances traveled, contact Ruth Friesen at editor@san- “Chokecherry Creek” had to be within 20 miles of La Junta. There are a couple tafetrail.org. of possibilities, but present Vermejo Creek, south of Wagon Mound, New Mexico, is the best candidate based on the next two days ‘ travel.

24 Wagon Tracks November 2020 Preservation Efforts on the Santa Fe Trail

Editor's note: To mark the 200th an- Not to be deterred, creative members niversary of William Becknell’s historic of the Kansas Chapter of the DAR journey to Santa Fe, Wagon Tracks fastened onto a project which became will reprint several articles from past the first systematic preservation of issues and related publications. We’ve the Santa Fe Trail. At the November selected articles which are important 1902 meeting State Regent Fannie to a broad knowledge of the Trail, but Geiger Thompson suggested that the which may be buried too deeply in the trail should be marked as it was “fast annals of the past to be known by read- becoming obliterated.” Though she ers newer to the history of the Santa Fe died before the next conference (the Trail. These articles will be marked with Burlingame SFT marker was placed the 200th anniversary logo, as well as in her memory), the organization the original publication date, and up- DAR trail-marking came to an end, voted in 1903 to proceed, in con- dated biographical information about automobile touring came to the fore sultation with the State Historical the authors. and indirectly aided in preservation Society. A Mr. Roy Marsh was asked of the trail. These early endeavors to map the trail across Kansas pre- By Jere L. Krakow were byproducts of broader thrusts; paratory to placing the markers, and nevertheless they provided initiative he completed that charge in 1905 for Originally published in The Jour- for ongoing preservation activity in the magnificent sum of $7.50.2 nal of the West in April 1989. It the late twentieth century. also appears in Mark Gardner's The In order to garner the necessary Mexican Road: Trade, Travel and Preservation early in our nation funds for the project, the legislature Confrontaton on the Santa Fe principally focused on structures as- was asked to provide $1,000, and Trail. sociated with great men (for example, the schoolchildren of Kansas were to Mount Vernon, George Washington’s participate in a fund drive. Legisla- LITTLE did teamsters, traders, sol- home), Revolutionary and Civil War tion submitted in 1905 appropriated diers, and other travelers recognize sites, or great natural areas like Hot the money, and schoolchildren con- the imprint they were placing on Springs, Arkansas, Yellowstone, or tributed $698.83 for expenses related America’s heritage as they journeyed Yosemite. Both coasts of the United to marking the trail. Granite markers, to and from New Mexico. The end- States and a few interior locales had each with an inscription and some less miles of dust, cold rain, swollen early structures associated with the with a bronze plaque, were placed rivers, and natural impediments, not past, but much of the Midwest, such along the trail, beginning in 1906. to mention cantankerous animals and as the five states through which the The DAR placed the first marker hostile tribes of American Indians, Santa Fe Trail wound, had few. Trails one mile south of Lyons in Rice captured their attention, not the role and roads, commonplace and used County; subsequently 96 markers of the Santa Fe Trail in the nation’s every day, tended to be taken for history. As they traveled that vast granted. Little thought was given by route and its many branches, they left preservationists in the nineteenth behind an indelible record on much century to commemorating a road. of the land, and in the collective memory of the nation. This record As an early patriotic group, the DAR, has had its proponents and keepers open only to women with proper ge- throughout the years. nealogical qualifications, sought op- portunities to preserve the American Efforts to preserve the Santa Fe Trail past. In the 1890s most of their work began early this century with the occurred in the Eastern chapters, work of several organizations, in par- since that is where the Revolutionary ticular state chapters of the Daugh- War took place. For those chapters ters of the American Revolution. The in the Midwest, as one writer put it, DAR recalled the past by marking “There are so few landmarks in this the trail, in order to commemorate part of the country that it is difficult what had gone on and to inculcate to find anything interesting. I often feelings of patriotism and loyalty. As envy the Chapters of Eastern cities. . . .” 1 DAR Marker in Rice County, Kansas.

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 25 found placement by the end of 1907, prompted other local groups to urge The National DAR, under the lead- including ones on the Mountain similar measures.3 The grass-roots ership of President General Mrs. Branch and the Cimarron Cutoff. movement shaped efforts to call at- Matthew T. Scott, appointed a roads What began with the Kansas DAR tention to the need for such a road, committee in 1912, to call attention soon gathered momentum with other to promote the route, to develop uni- to the contribution of trailmakers. As chapters in the trail states. form plans, and to place markers and a part of their agenda, utility poles tablets along the trail. were painted with red, white, and Spreading from Kansas, the idea of blue stripes to mark the routes of the marking the trail took root in Mis- Persuaded by Dean Walter Williams National Old Trails Roads. With the souri. Spearheading the drive were of Columbia, Missouri, conferees national impetus, the Missouri DAR Elizabeth Gentry and Mrs. John Van chose a route that paralleled the San- placed the markers on the Santa Fe Brunt, who lobbied the governor ta Fe and Boone’s Lick trails; it re- Trail in 1912 and dedicated them and legislature for backing. Support ceived official designation on August in May of 1913.4 In October of the for this cause resulted in red granite 17, 191l, as the Old Trails Road. This same year they dedicated the markers markers, carved and ready for place- regional organization spawned a larg- on the Boone’s Lick Trail. At one of ment by 1909, but placement was er group known as the Missouri Old the largest markers, near Fort Osage, not made until 1912. Concurrent Trails Road Association, and that in the Jackson County Superintendent with the trail-marker program was a turn led to the formation of the Na- of Roads, Chester Cooke, was photo- movement to organize the trail as- tional Old Trails Road Association in graphed by O. W. Childs, in Septem- sociation in Missouri, that in time Kansas City, Missouri, in 1912. Judge ber 1914. gained national attention. J. M. Lowe of Kansas City (formerly of Lexington) was elected president. Movements to commemorate the On 24 June, 1911, several prominent He worked closely with the DAR nation’s past and the advent of the Lexington, Missouri, businessmen and paid tribute to them for inspiring automobile combined at a propitious met to form the Santa Fe Trail & the commemoration of historic trails time for many historical sites. The Boone’s Lick Road Association. in America. combination permitted tourism at a This attempt fit very closely with local level that did not previously ex- the promotion of good roads in the These local road associations, and ist with the railroads, bound as they United States and the growing im- the national one, promoted roads were by timetables and scheduled portance of the automobile. At the throughout the country and indirect- stops. An adventurous journey beck- time, a number of individuals made ly contributed to the commemora- oned those with access to an automo- pioneering treks across the nation tion and preservation of the Santa Fe bile and a desire to confront nature to gain publicity for themselves, for Trail across the several states. Presi- through an active form of recreation. the automobile as a mode of travel, dent Lowe especially sought to place Predictably enough, opportunities and for the need to improve roads monuments and statues to commem- to participate took many tourists throughout the land. At Lexington orate early pioneers. His successor in close to sites along major trails such the assembled group adopted bylaws 1926 was Harry S. Truman, a judge as the Santa Fe, and promotion of that urged construction of a modern of Jackson County, Missouri, who roads along existing trails salvaged cross­-state highway from St. Louis worked in tandem with the DAR in a past on the verge of disappearing. to Kansas City, and that in turn marking the road.

The National Old Trails Road: car in cut in gravel hill between Santa Fe and Algodones (north of Albuquerque), New Mexico. Fed- eral Highway Administration, Highway History. www.fhwa.dot.gov/infrastructure/ trgal43.cfm

26 Wagon Tracks November 2020 Driving a car allowed stopping at will branch put it along the trail through had also placed several DAR markers to see places “off the beaten track . . . Great Bend, Lyons, and Baldwin City. by 1912 and tried to entice the ad- America at its best, and not through venturesome for auto tours along the the maze of telegraph lines, billboards, Promoters like Faxon and others historic route. Several photographic and other accoutrements of industry encouraged maintaining the road, of- records document the route of the trail and commerce that lined the rail- fering advice from State Engineer W. in New Mexico. roads.”5 S. Gearhart about plowing the ends of fields to ditch water away from During 1906 the Colorado Chapter of As Missouri residents began to ad- the road surface, cutting weeds, and the DAR made preparations to put up vocate a cross-state highway, Kansas placing “blue and white enemal [sic ] granite markers along the trail. Mrs. boosters became active in the good- signs for the Trail.”6 Through build- W. C. Ferrill and Mrs. John Campbell roads movement. By March 1910, ing name recognition of sites on the especially boosted the attempt, and R. H. Faxon of Garden City had old trail, entrepreneurs capitalized on Colorado lawmakers assisted with been elected president of an orga- qualities that endured and in their way an appropriation of $2,000 for the nization called “The New Santa Fe preserved the route. They also man- work in 1907. The money was to “pay Trail.” Its ostensible purpose was to aged to utilize the DAR markers that expenses of a survey of the Santa Fe obtain support for improving roads had been placed earlier. Trail and erecting suitable monuments across Kansas between Newton and to mark the same, and providing for the Colorado border, and to engen- Faxon and others boasted of the work a penalty for the defacement of such der such support in Colorado, with done in Colorado, but they deviated monuments or marks.”7 Twenty-seven Pueblo as the objective. The agenda from the main historic route by pro- markers were placed along the Moun- called for financial support from the ceeding west from La Junta to Pueblo. tain Branch and the Cimarron Cutoff various counties, improving the road The latter town was chosen because of the trail. Recently an inventory of by surfacing, ditching, and marking the National Irrigation Congress was all the markers has been completed by it, and demonstrating the feasibil- to be held there in September of 1910. Mary B. Gamble and Leo E. Gamble ity of travel along it with tours and It seemed a natural draw for road traf- of Springfield, Colorado. endurance runs. Guided by economic fic across Kansas, and of course the motives, the route did not always par- nearby mountains also served as a lure The commemoration of the trail by allel the SFT: it was routed through to the infant tourism industry. the state chapters of the DAR, and Hutchinson, Newton, and Peabody, on the promotions for good roads by a southern route, although a northern New Mexico, like its sister trail states, various associations, launched other

"Raton Pass, the highest point on Santa Fe Trail from Ocean to Ocean, Raton, New Mexico" 1930s, www.ebay.com/ sch/i.html?_nkw=raton%20pass%20eName=GSTL

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 27 efforts to retain the heritage of the gaining economic benefits for the trail. Another project stemmed from communities along the way. This activ- the National Road Committee of the ity originated with the Kansas City DAR during the 1920s. As a result chapter and resulted in the placing of a drive spearheaded by Mrs. John of oval-shaped metal signs, initially Trigg Moss of St. Louis, a series of attached to schoolhouses along the 12 monuments to the pioneer mother route. The distinctive symbol of the (sometimes referred to as “Madonna wagon, mules, and driver can yet be of the Trail”) were commissioned to seen in a few scattered locations such be located across the entire United as at the Shawnee Mission in Johnson States. Sculpted by August Leimbach County, Kansas. Many signs have been of St. Louis and made by the Algonite stolen from the schoolhouses, and Stone Company, the monuments por- only a weathered oval mark remains. trayed a mother and two children. The National Trails Road Association, un- A 1960s effort promoted travel on the der Harry S. Truman’s leadership, un- trail in order to provide income for derwrote the cost of erecting the stat- businesses across Kansas, along the ue from Maryland to California; four Cimarron Cutoff in Oklahoma, and were intended for the SFT. Placement in New Mexico. Particularly active in was made during 1928 in Lexington, this group were Grace Collier, then Missouri, Council Grove, Kansas, La- of Great Bend, Kansas, and former mar, Colorado, and Albuquerque, New Madonna of the Trail (Lamar) Library State Senator William C. Wheatley of Mexico. The latter was intended for of Congress: www.loc.gov/resource/ Clayton, New Mexico, who diligently Santa Fe but disagreement over the highsm.32189/. See also Wagon Tracks, promoted the trail and the cutoff artistic merit of the statue prevented August 2016 and February 2017. as an economic boost to local com- its erection there. The Santa Fe Trail munities. Like its predecessors, the thus achieved recognition through the Santa Fe Trail Highway Association combined efforts of the DAR and the tried to maintain markers placed put up markers, rectangular signs of National Old Trails Road Association, earlier in the century, and several indi- green and white with a wagon sym- and more statues were placed along it viduals looked after local sites. bol, which can still be spotted along than along other important trails. the trail. Most, however, like the oval A successor to the early road associa- signs, now rest in private collections. From 1928 until 1948 historical mark- tions, the American Pioneer Trail As- In keeping with the promotion, the ers were installed by the various states sociation, began to place commemora- Kansas legislature during 1961 desig- along the route. Little energy went tive signs in 1948. The project called nated portions of U.S. routes 50 and into preserving the trail, although attention to the historic route and 56 as “the Santa Fe Trail Memorial highway associations and localities encouraged travelers to use it, thereby Highway,” and the highway commis-

Map of Old Trails Roads, Federal Highway Administration, www.fhwa.dot.gov/infra- structure/trail10.cfm

28 Wagon Tracks November 2020 Photo courtesy Vernon Heibert Vernon courtesy Photo

Above, oval Santa Fe Trail sign. Right, oval sign at the Waldeck-Wasmiller Dist 102-103 School in the early 1950s located in the SE corner of Steve Schmidt's land in Marion County, Kansas, less than 1/2 mile from the SFT swales. "No luck so far finding that oval: no one at the 2009 school reunion knew its whereabouts," says Steve. sions of New Mexico and Oklahoma Nichols, Council Grove Historic Dis- “recreational qualities are neither also passed resolutions of designation. trict, Wagon Bed Spring, Arrow Rock, sufficient nor varied enough to a na- and trail ruts west of Dodge City. tionwide audience. Furthermore the After the lobbying energies of Col- This activity on the part of the NPS natural qualities of the trail have been lier and Wheatley, the National Park and interested local residents put the significantly altered during the past Service began a process of listing and entire trail on the way to national des- century.”10 Several sites owned by assessing sites that led to a substantial ignation, and state governments gave different levels of government were report.8 Originally started during the recognition to the trail as well. recommended for recreational devel- 1930s, suspended, and then resumed opment and protection. after World War II, the NPS Historic Dozens of trail-related sites have Sites Survey sought to identify sites gained entry to the National Register The National Trails System Act was of exceptional value to the national of Historic Places in the years since amended in 1978, and several trails experience, including those on the 1963. Other sites achieved status as received designation, including the Santa Fe Trail. In 1958 Ray H. Mat- National Park areas (Bent’s Old Fort, Oregon Trail, the Mormon Pioneer tison began a field survey of the trail, Fort Larned), while others became Trail, and the Lewis and Clark Trail. assisted in due course by William E. state parks (Arrow Rock). Individuals Support mounted for the inclusion of Brown, Roy E. Appleman, and Robert all up and down the trail called atten- the Santa Fe Trail. In an attempt to M. Utley. Resulting from this survey tion to the SFT. Amelia J. Betts and gain historic trail status, Gregory M. was an extensive report written by Katharine B. Kelley of Douglas Coun- Franzwa and the Oregon-California Brown which gave an overall history ty, Kansas, went to considerable effort Trails Association led a delegation of the trail, an inventory and assess- and expense to locate and clean up old to Washington in 1986 to lobby for ment of significance for major sites, markers and place new ones. Many legislation. In early 1986 Franzwa and recommendations for protecting others have contributed time and en- prepared a draft of the bill ultimately several of the sites. This report has just ergy to preserve and obtain the desired sponsored by Congressman Bruce recently been published by The Patrice national recognition for the trail. Vento and Senator Nancy Kassebaum Press.9 (later joined by numerous co-sponsors Action to preserve a number of trails from the five trail states). Meanwhile, For those interested in the trail, the took shape when the National Trails plans had been laid by the Colorado report assisted efforts to protect trail- System Act, Public Law 909-543, was Historical Society for the first Santa related sites like the Clayton Com- enacted in 1968. According to the Fe Trail Symposium, to be held in plex (landforms and historic sites) act, some 14 trails became eligible for Trinidad during September 1986. At in Wheatley’s home district in New study prior to nomination as National that meeting the conferees organized Mexico, which was named a National Scenic Trails. The Bureau of Outdoor the Santa Fe Trail Council (later Historic Landmark in the spring of Recreation of the Department of the changed to Association), which urged 1963. Many other locales along the Interior issued a report in 1976 which passage of pending legislation, and trail achieved the same status: Wa- declared the Santa Fe Trail ineligible continued to promote and preserve trous (La Junta), Wagon Mound, for scenic trail status. It declared the the Santa Fe Trail. Raton Pass, Santa Fe Plaza, Camp trail historically significant, but its

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 29 On May 15, 1987, President Ronald Reagan signed the bill designating the Santa Fe Trail as a National His- toric Trail. The National Park Service has been given the responsibility to prepare a comprehensive manage- ment and use plan for the trail, and a full-scale mapping project for the entire trail is in progress, as is an in- ventory of sites and segments of the trail. Another part of the plan will provide assistance to mark the trail and to work out cooperative agree- ments between the NPS and private landowners in order to permit access to sites along the route, and among government groups whose landhold- ings include portions of the trail. Other projects will consist of inter- preting the trail to visitors, assessing Fisher's Peak, near Trinidad, Colorado, 1926. Postcard, ebay. https://www. its economic impact on the commu- ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1312&_ nities along it, and promoting it as a nkw=fisher%27s+peak&_sacat=20225 part of our heritage. Lexington in the Westward Movement" Jere Krakow, who died in November (Lexington, Missouri, n.d.). What the Kansas chapter of the 2017, was named Superintendent of DAR began in marking the trail 4. Nancy Short, Louise Taraba, and Rolfe National Trails for the Intermountain early in this century has spread to Teague, "Milestones in Missouri’s Past." Region in 1995, serving in that other states and ultimately to the (St. Louis: Missouri State Soc. DAR, 1976). capacity until 1997 when he formalization of marking, preserving, retired and began two decades 5. John A. Jakle, The Tourist: Travel in protecting, and interpreting the trail of volunteering with various trail Twentieth-Century North America (Lincoln: to the American people. The designa- University of Nebraska, 1985), 104. organizations. Prior to joining the tion of the Santa Fe Trail as a Na- National Park Service, Jere was a tional Historic Trail is both an end- 6. John C. Nicholson to Department of Agriculture, 9 Aug. 1910, National professor of history at Missouri State ing and a beginning, for it signals the Archives, Record Group 30, Box 57. University in Springfield where he culmination of many undertakings Nicholson was a Newton attorney and taught courses in American History, to boost the trail, and it also signals chairman of the Harvey County Division American Indians, and the west. the launching of cooperative efforts of The New Santa Fe Trail. to present the story of the route in a 7. Fourteenth Biennial Report of the State dignified and orderly manner befit- Engineer to the Governor of Colorado for the ting its history. To rest on the laurels Years 1907 and 1908 (1908), 76. of a National Trail designation would 8. Telephone conversation with William C. be to fail those who used it, and Wheatley, 31 Aug. 1988. those who have labored to preserve it. 9. William E. Brown, National Park Service, 1963 Historic Sites Survey: The Endnotes Santa Fe Trail (St. Louis: The Patrice Press, 1988). 1. Charles B. Hosmer, Jr., Presence of the Past: A History of The Preservation 10. U. S. Department of the Interior, Movement in The United States before Bureau of Outdoor Recreation, "The Santa Williamsburg (New York: G. P. Putnam, Fe Trail: A National Scenic Trail Study"  1965), 132. (Washington, D.C.: July 1976), 4. 2. See Allie Peckham Cordry, The Story of the Marking of The Santa Fe Trail by the Hear his presentation about Na- Daughters of the American Revolution in tional Parks at www.youtube.com/ Kansas and the State of Kansas (Topeka: Special thanks to Mike Olsen, who watch?v=fPLKK1Q1FXs Crane & Company, 1915). researched and found many of the 3. See B. M. Little, "The National Old photos in Krakow's original article. Trails Road and the Part Played by

30 Wagon Tracks November 2020 their experience carries through the Oliva and his wife Bonita traveled to ages, even though communication the US Army Military History In- for today’s military cadre is infinitely stitute at Carlisle Barracks, Pennsyl- BOOKS swifter. vania, and transcribed approximately half of the correspondence between The publisher’s press release included Isaac and Katie Bowen. Letters dated with my copy of the book men- March 29, 1851, through September tions the Bowens’s interaction with 2, 1851, from Fort Leavenworth, Lifelines: such historical luminaries as Ralph journeying along the Santa Fe Trail, Waldo Emerson, Zachary Taylor, and their first days at Fort Union, The Bowen Love Letters Jefferson Davis, Ulysses S. Grant, Compiled by Susan Lee Ward New Mexico Territory, were pub- Millard Fillmore, and Santa Fe Trail lished in Wagon Tracks issues from Dorrance Publishing Co., Inc, well-knowns such as Kit Carson and 2002-2005, and can be found online Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Susan Magoffin. However, the book at www.santafetrail.org under the ISBN 978-1-6461-0643-1. has no index, and finding these Eas- publications tab. They also appear in 918 pages, paper. Available at the ter eggs hidden in a 918-page text Ward’s book from pages 480-557. Last Chance Store for $45 postpaid, severely tested my patience. www.santafetrail.org. The original letters were donated Having an index might help the to the US Army Military History reader/researcher discover previously Reviewed by Ruth Friesen Institute at Carlisle Barracks, Penn- unknown correlations among con- sylvania, by Gwladys Bowen, the This collection comprises the most temporaries of the time. For example, granddaughter of Isaac and Katie valuable and informative collection of Jane Elder and David Weber edited Bowen, and remain there available letters written prior to the Civil War John Kingsbury’s Correspondence for researchers. This book, Lifelines: by an army officer’s wife who spent with James J. Webb, 1853-1861, pub- The Bowen Love Letters, compiled by time in the American West, accord- lished as Trading in Santa Fe. They Susan Lee Ward, the great-great- ing to historian Dr. Leo Oliva. found information in the correspon- granddaughter of Isaac and Katie, dence that Kate (Messervy) Kings- makes the letters available to every- The Bowen letters begin on Janu- bury gave birth to a son, George, in one. ary 1, 1846, and continue through February 1855 in Santa Fe, who had December 23, 1858. During this a serious birth defect. Kate informed The letters written on the Santa Fe time, Katie and Isaac Bowen endure her brother of the defect and asked Trail and in New Mexico, 1851- frequent separations and living apart him to tell no one and to destroy 1855, provide another woman’s from their extended families. The the letter so no one else would know viewpoint on the trail and life in Bowens maintain their correspon- the details. His letter back to Kate the frontier army prior to the Civil dence through the Mexican War, informed her the letter was received, War. Katie Bowen belongs in the time in Philadelphia, traveling along noted sorrow for the situation, and pantheon of women writers on the the Santa Fe Trail and living in New declared Kate’s letter destroyed as SFT, including Susan Shelby Magof- Mexico, and finally as he is posted in requested. Little George lived for 18 fin, Marion Sloan Russell, Julia Ar- New Orleans prior to the Civil War. months before he died. chibald Holmes, Lydia Spencer Lane, and others.  The book is not annotated, which What was that birth defect? Dr. would help the reader understand the Oliva discovered that Katie Bowen  larger context of world events and provided the answer in her corre- experiences shared by the couple. As spondence. Katie wrote the follow- it is, the book stands alone as a series ing to her mother from Santa Fe New Release of letters between a military man and on February 28, 1855: “A shocking America's National Historic Trails: his wife, and their families. It pro- thing occurred here on the first day Walking the Footsteps of History, vides insight into the yearning and of February. Mrs. Kingsbury, a sweet written by Karen Berger and pho- deprivations inherent in their rela- pretty woman from Old Salem and tographed by Bart Smith. Foreward tionships, as well as day-to-day living only one year married, gave birth to by Ken Burns and screenwriter during the time period. Isaac com- a boy without show of arms or legs Dayton Duncan, who collaborated ments on military movements and and what is much worse, it bids fair on PBS's epic 12-hour series on deaths of his compatriots, and she to live in spite of everything.” (p. 687) America's national parks in 2009. writes of news on the home front. Thus, reading even without an index Buy online: www.rizzoliusa.com/buy- Both express exasperation at sporadic sometimes brings a sweet, or bitter- online/9780847868858/. Hardcover, mail delivery. The universal impact of sweet, surprise. 320 pages, $55.

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 31 Chapter Reports

Chapters are listed in order from the beginning of This spring and summer we have been able to construct a new the Trail in Missouri westward. footpath at the Black Jack Ruts. Five prominent wagon ruts on the Ivan L. Boyd Memorial Prairie Preserve, owned by Douglas TO CONTACT CHAPTER PRESIDENTS, County, are up to four feet deep as they come down a hill. After PLEASE EMAIL THEM AT [email protected]. the prairie is burned at least five other wagon tracks can be lo- Missouri River Outfitters cated. The site is 18 acres, of which half is still unplowed native prairie. Dr. Roger Boyd has documented over 250 species of Independence, MO native plants on the site during his tenure at Baker University. President Anne Mallinson The trail construction has been a collaborative effort organized Plans continue for 2021 events. MRO President Anne by Dr. Boyd with the Douglas County Chapter of SFTA. Mallinson met with members of the Arrow Rock Trading Funding, advice, labor, or materials have been provided by Company in preparation for both the September 1, 2021, Douglas County Department of Public Works, Kansas De- events in Arrow Rock and the living history demonstrations at partment of Transportation, Kansas State Historical Preserva- Fort Osage on September 4-5, 2021. Details will be posted on tion Office, Douglas County Heritage Conservation Council www.santafetrail200.org and www.santafetrail.org (HCC), Freedom's Frontier National Heritage Area (FFNHA), Santa Fe Trail Association, and Cory Donnelly of the National In conjunction with Friends of the National Frontier Trails Park Service office in Santa Fe, New Mexico. The Douglas Museum, Sarah Tucker Poff plans a virtual wagon train in County Chapter has received a $17,800 grant from HHC, a 2021. If you wish to join in the fun, pick your identity and pack $3,000 grant from FFHA, and a $5,000 grant from a private your wagon with trade goods in preparation for leaving Frank- donor. Over 600 hours of volunteer labor have been contributed lin. Sarah will choose a year later than 1821 in order to involve by over 60 volunteers on the project. more people and wagons. The first portion of the trail, constructed of compacted asphalt SFTA President Larry Short was part of a team of National millings, is 6 feet wide, 350 feet long, and ends with a 25-foot- Historic Trail partners (Trails Head/OCTA, Missouri River diameter circle located at the first major rut. From there a Outfitters/SFTA, Kansas City Area Historic Trails Associa- 1,250-foot-long gravel-topped trail three feet wide loops tion) who met with NPS staff and the 106 Design group to around and through the other major ruts. A stone pathway has assess area sites for new or replacement wayside exhibit signage. been constructed through the ruts. Both portions have been The sites range from Independence to Olathe to Prairie Village. completed. The NPS will review information submitted and the new/re- placement wayside exhibits should be ready for installation in The National Park Service staff members are designing three early 2021. interpretative signs that will be completed next spring. A dedi- cation ceremony will be held on June 5, 2021, beginning at 2:00 Of special interest are developments for the 200th anniversary p.m. Details will be developed soon. We look forward to many of the Sibley Survey in 2025. The commemoration of the 200th visitors to this highly visible trail. anniversary of the Santa Fe Trail in 2021 will provide momen- tum as we move forward to these future commemorations. Heart of the Flint Hills Council Grove, KS Plans continue for the 2023 symposium. Mary Conrad has President Sharon Haun been appointed Chairperson of the Speakers Committee. She has chaired many such committees, so we are confident she will Like everyone else, COVID-19 has slowed things down in the choose an excellent array of subjects and presentations. Flint Hills. But the grass and weeds keep growing. Thanks to three of our chapter members, the Rock Creek Crossing trail An MRO Zoom meeting is planned for November. The annual has been mowed and trimmed all this growing season. The December meeting of trail organizations in western Missouri gentleman who has been hauling his mower out there to mow and eastern Kansas has been cancelled. We will keep in touch the rail tells me he is hoping he has mowed it for the last time with one another via electronic media and newsletters. this year. These three gentlemen have been taking care of this Douglas County wonderful site the whole spring/summer season. Baldwin City, KS Planning for SFT 200 continues with many special events on President Roger Boyd the calendar. The committee has moved the first events back to May, the first event to be held outside. Again COVID-19 con- Our annual meeting which had been scheduled for Sunday tinues to be the "problem on the shoulder," as we work on the February 21 has been postponed. The program was to be by schedule and variety of events. Hopefully, by the next Wagon Baker University Archivist, Sara Decaro, and her topic was Tracks we will have a better understanding of what, if any, limi- "History of the Baldwin City, KS, Area." 2020 is the Sesqui- tations we may have for our big spring, summer, and fall events. centennial for Baldwin City, but the celebration has been post- Stay safe, and wear your mask. poned to 2021. We will determine a date for this presentation once the pandemic is under control.

32 Wagon Tracks November 2020 SFTA Annual Membership January 1, 2021 to December 31, 2021

Name(s) ______□ Life $1000, payable over 4 years

Address ______□ Patron $100/year

City ______State ______Zip ______□ Family $65/year

Phone ______Email ______□ Individual $50/year □ New member □ Renewing member □ Youth (18 and under) $5/year I am a member of the following chapter (s) ______□ Non-profit Institution $65/year ______□ Business $65/year I’d like to make a donation to assist the SFTA with programs and events. □ $50 □ $100 Other $______I’d like to donate to the Junior Wagon Master Fund. □ $50 □ $100 Other $______I’d like to donate to the Marker Fund. □ $50 □ $100 Other $______To pay by credit card, go to www.santafetrail.org, and click on “Join the Organization.”

The Santa Fe Trail Association is a 501(c)(3) tax-exempt corporation, and all donations TOTAL ENCLOSED ______beyond membership dues are tax-deductible to the full extent of the law. Make checks payable to Santa Fe Trail Association Mail to Ruth Olson Peters, Treasurer, Santa Fe Trail Center, 1349 K-156 Hwy, Larned, KS 67550 Renew by mailing using the above form or renew online at www.santafetrail.org If you have renewed your membership, pass the form along to a friend or colleague.

Chapter Reports

Cottonwood Crossing Colle, Carolyn Kern, and Carolyn’s son Joseph and his three Hillsboro, KS children. The proposal for this sign was submitted in the fall of President Doug Sharp 2016, and we are so happy to have the sign finally in place. New signs marking the trail have been installed by Barton County Unfortunately, due to our country's response to COVID-19, our near Great Bend. The city of Ellinwood should also be installing chapter has essentially gone dormant with fear. I'm sorry this is signs in the town of Ellinwood soon, if they have not already. so. Other than my contact with Rich Giblin and John Kliewer Installation of these signs will help to further mark the Santa Fe flying and videoing the trail, we have had no activity. Trail in the Quivira Chapter area. Quivira Wet/Dry Routes McPherson, KS Great Bend, KS President Linda Colle President George Elmore

COVID-19 has not stopped Trail activities from taking place. Returning to regular meetings during a pandemic would be like We are still planning for the 200th Anniversary for 2021. Rack rolling the dice, considering the high risk because of age and cards describing the Quivira Chapter activities commemorating health of several members. The Wet/Dry chapter has not had the Santa Fe Trail 200th anniversary have been distributed to a meeting since the March shutdown. There is no choice, even our area communities. In addition, the Quivira 200th Anni- with masks and distancing; the risk is too great. versary website is active. It is a work in progress but it will list Quivira Chapter events and will also include participating com- Without holding meetings, the preservation work to help save munity events and activities, as well as places to eat, go, see, and Santa Fe Trail Ruts has been taking place. Several Wet/Dry stay. The Quivira Chapter website is santafetrail2021.com. The members have been assisting the Santa Fe Trail Center with chapter Facebook page for the 200th anniversary is also active at the Sharp Ruts just south of Chase. The five-acre parcel has www.facebook.com/200thSantafetrailKansas/. beautifully preserved deep sets of main line trail ruts along with a few buffalo wallows. A sign for the area has been written and For the first time in its history, the Kansas State Fair was can- is ready to be installed. The site is not open yet, as an entrance celled. The Quivira Chapter was planning to have a booth for road and parking area are being developed. The Sharp Ruts both weekends at the Fair. It is disappointing that we were not and Ralph’s Ruts are only a few miles apart, and with the Little able to showcase the Quivira Chapter and SFTA to people at Arkansas River Crossing, Santa Fe Trail enthusiasts will have the Fair, but safety first. great trail viewing.

The Ralph’s Rut interpretive sign has been installed and it looks During this challenging time, we can still help save the great. Britt Colle installed it on August 2, with help from Linda 200-year-old critically important resource of trail ruts by help-

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 33 ing to save five more acres. Protecting the Santa Fe Trail ruts is The Bent’s Fort Chapter has always and continues to hold true a significant contribution to the 200th Santa Fe Trail anniver- the saying, “The Santa Fe Trail Lives On.” While some of our sary. planned events didn't come off as planned due to the CO- VID-19 pandemic, Bent's Fort Chapter has been able to carry Dodge City/Fort Dodge/Cimarron on and find innovative ways to still attend trail and history Dodge City, KS related events while following all local, county, and state health President Bill Bunyan protocols.

We had thought about trying to have a chapter meeting at the In August, chapter members and guests attended a presenta- end of September, but after talking it over with all involved, we tion by John W. Anderson on "Native American Prayer Trees decided to cancel. Hopefully things will get better soon and we of Colorado" at the historic Grand Theater in Rocky Ford. can meet again in the spring. Mr. Anderson shared some of his personal relationship with the Santa Fe Trail and how it influenced his family in settling The chapter lost one of its first members recently. Don Wiles in Colorado Springs, Colorado. Some of the trees that are in helped start the chapter, serving as one of the first chapter his book and presentation are along the Cherokee Trail, which presidents. Our condolences to his family, as he will surely be utilized the Santa Fe Trail to Bent's Old Fort and then broke missed. off the trail to go to Fountain Creek then north, eventually ending up at Fort Bridger. The Kansas DAR is planning to re-dedicate one of its monu- ments here in the spring. Patty Winger, DAR historian, is In 2019 the Bent's Fort Chapter board of directors voted to planning the event for May 22 for the Wet-Dry marker just invest in a camera capable of taking still pictures and also east of Fort Dodge. video. The idea behind this was to preserve the talks, presen- tations, and other events along the trail that the chapter has Our chapter's project for the 200th anniversary is to spotlight the privilege to see and may not be able to see or hear about all of our Santa Fe Trail sites in our two-county chapter area again. It seems that many of the wonderful speakers and trek of Ford and Gray counties. Vice President Deb Calhoun, my guides are dying. Little did we know that a "pandemic" would wife Susan, and I took photos of all the Gray County sites, occur and limit folks to get out and attend events. With author and we will have a caption with each telling where it is located. permission, these photos and videos are now available to watch The editor of the Dodge City Globe has agreed to run one per on our Bent's Fort Chapter YouTube channel, "Bents Fort week starting the first of the year. Hopefully this will encour- Chapter Santa Fe Trail." The chapter also has our own Face- age people to visit the sites as we commemorate the 200th book page, “Bent’s Fort Chapter,” where photos and informa- anniversary. Once we have Ford County done we should have tion are posted as well. These are fantastic mediums to preserve around 50 sites, good for one a week in 2021. some of the history that we experience while out on the Trail or hearing a presentation. We are hoping that not only our Wagon Bed Spring members can enjoy the photos and videos, but that the general Lakin, KS public can check them out as well. We invite all of you to take President Linda Peters a look.

We have not had a meeting this year. The chapter does hope to Until Friday, September 25th, all plans for our Bent's Fort develop some kind of activity for the 2021 commemoration of Chapter Las Vegas Trek were still on; however, unfortunately, the opening of the Santa Fe Trail. it was announced that the NM governor placed travelers from Cimarron Cutoff Colorado on a very restricted protocol. As it stands today, any traveler from Colorado into New Mexico who stays over- Elkhart, KS night must quarantine themselves for 14 days. Due to these President Jay Williams restrictions, it was unfortunately decided that this trek will be postponed until 2021. Personally, I am just heartbroken! Our chapter will pay for the wayside exhibit sign to be Lots of planning has taken place: tour guides were ready for replaced at Autograph Rock. The Morton County Historical us, the Castaneda and Plaza Hotels were anxious for us to be Society Museum has ordered Santa Fe Trail interpretive signs there, and restaurants were making special arrangements to to be placed on the museum grounds. SFT signs for Union accommodate our group. It is my hope that these plans can be County, New Mexico, will be installed in the next few weeks carried over to next year. by the County Road Department and NMDOT. Of course, many of our chapter members are involved in plan- The Cimarron Heritage Center in Boise City, Oklahoma, ning the 2021 Symposium to be held at Bent’s Old Fort next has tentative plans June 4, 2021, to have a Santa Fe Trail September, 2021. It has been interesting having our planning tour, starting in the morning east of Boise City, going toward meetings via Zoom and conference call. It is always fun to Willow Bar Crossing, Trujillo Springs, and teepee rings. see committee members on the screen. We are very thankful After lunch at the museum, the tour will depart for Signature the Symposium was not planned for this September. Just a Rock, Autograph Rock, Camp Nichols, and McNees crossing, reminder that you can register for the 2021 Symposium on the ending back at Boise City. Please plan to attend and bring a SFTA website via The Last Chance Store. friend. These are great sites to see along the trail. Corazon de los Caminos Bent’s Fort Cimarron, NM Lamar, CO President Doyle Daves President Kevin Lindahl

34 Wagon Tracks November 2020 Our chapter has been in hibernation since our February meet- addition, she galvanized the End of the Trail Chapter board to ing owing to the virus pandemic and our New Mexico gover- discuss the monument situation and issue a written statement nor’s guidelines. The guidelines, which remain in effect, have to various officials. For potential guidance, the End of the Trail effectively banned meetings; as a result we have canceled seven Chapter board members inquired whether the Santa Fe Trail planned monthly meetings and postponed impressive programs. Association had an official position on the removal of monu- We hope it will be possible to resume meetings in October ments. SFTA does not. or November. It is imperative that we finalize plans for SFT 200th anniversary events during the next few months. If it is The two monuments the End of the Trail Chapter members not possible to resume chapter meetings during the fall, we will are addressing are two obelisks. The first obelisk is the Soldiers find other ways to move the planning process forward. Monument, funded by the NM Territorial Legislatures (1865- 1868) erected on the plaza to recognize the Union soldiers and The chapter, in cooperation with the Las Vegas Citizens subsequently during the second appropriation to the soldiers Committee for Historic Preservation, is committed to hosting who fought during the Indian Wars, which spanned some 25 events during the weekend of November 12-14, 2021, to note years in New Mexico. [Editor’s note: this obelisk was pulled the meeting that occurred on November 13, 1821, just three down by protestors on October 12, 2020.] miles south of Las Vegas between William Becknell and his five companions from Missouri and Mexican military Captain In 1865, veterans began placing monuments around the na- Pedro Gallego and his troops that marked the opening of the tion, commemorating the Civil War and its fallen heroes. This Santa Fe Trail. growing movement inspired Slough, a former colonel of the 1st Colorado Infantry Regiment, the volunteers that participated End of the Trail in the Battle at Glorieta Pass, dubbed the “Gettysburg of the Santa Fe, NM West,” one of two battles fought in New Mexico as a part of the President Joy Poole Trans-Mississippi Theater of the Civil War. He secured $1,500 for the monument. Later, when it was not finished by the archi- Due to COVID-19, our chapter lectures have been postponed tects John and M. McGee, another legislative amount of $1,800 indefinitely. The End of the Trail Chapter Board members have was appropriated by the NM Territorial Legislature with an continued to meet virtually. added provision requiring commemoration of those individuals fallen in the Indian Wars. Seizing the narrative, members actu- Long time EoT board member Gail Bryant resigned from the ally drafted into law the precise words to be engraved onto the End of the Trail Chapter board. Her services over the years four marble tablets. were invaluable. She provided first-hand knowledge of trail sites located on the eastern section of Santa Fe County. She was The second obelisk was dedicated during an 1884 ceremony always ready to fill-in on a variety of tasks from Santa Fe Trail attended by about 5,000 people, whereby a sandstone obelisk placemat distribution, to substituting as a secretary, filling out erected by the Grand Army of the Republic was unveiled at the the annual volunteer hours for our chapter. We very much ap- main entrance of the Santiago E. Campos U.S. Courthouse. preciate her contribution over the years to our chapter and the The monument honors Christopher "Kit" Carson (1809-1868), Santa Fe Trail. a veteran of the Mexican-American War and the Civil War.

Noel Marie Fletcher, journalist and photographer, was appoint- Doyle Daves and members of the Corazon Chapter discussed ed to fill the term of Gale Bryant. Noel is a descendant of Santa their commemorative plans for the 200th anniversary with Fe Trail traders, the Perea and Chaves families. Her Hispanic some of the End of the Trail Chapter members. The End of maternal relatives include the Perea family, whose members the Trail Chapter board members will continue to collaborate were among the earliest Hispanics in Congress (Francisco with the Corazon Chapter. The End of the Trail Chapter events Perea, Jose Francisco Chaves, and Pedro Perea). The Pereas were include a re-enactment of William Becknell and his men riding also important community leaders under three flags (Spain, into the plaza of Santa Fe, organized by Jeff Hengesbach. In Mexico, and the U.S.) in New Mexico and leading Hispanic addition, there will be a lecture or two and a dinner featuring business entrepreneurs of the Santa Fe Trail. recipes from Sam Arnold’s cookbook Eating up the Santa Fe Trail at La Fonda in the ballroom. Joy Poole has completed her research made possible by an SFTA Scholarly Research Grant on the William Baskerville Santa Fe Trail Poetry Book – The State of New Mexico estab- diary, Wagon Boss for Frances Xavier Aubry. Her article will lished a Poet Laureate program in 2019 with the Department appear in a future issue of Wagon Tracks. of Cultural Affairs. During the FY 2020 year there was a sum of money not spent by the NM State Library and NM Arts. Dave Kendall, from Kansas, was in New Mexico and Santa Fe Joy Poole was able to secure state funds to publish a poetry over the 2020 Labor Day weekend, filming and interviewing book to be edited by Sandra Doe, Ph.D. of English at Metro- people for a SF Trail film funded by the Kansas Humanities politan University – Denver. The introduction will feature Marc Council. Simmon’s keynote address “Poetry of the Santa Fe Trail” from the first Santa Fe Trail Symposium held in Trinidad. This will Our EoT chapter board work has centered primarily on be followed by poems previously published in Wagon Tracks and protecting local monuments which have become the topic of other noteworthy trail poems. It is estimated 2,000 copies will controversy resulting from the Black Lives Matter movement. be published and available by 2021.  Margaret Sears, former Santa Fe Trail Association President and current End of the Trail Board member, has written let- ters objecting to the removal of these obelisks in Santa Fe. In

November 2020 Wagon Tracks 35 Santa Fe Trail Association 1046 Red Oaks NE Albuquerque, NM 87122 www.santafetrail.org

CHANGE SERVICE REQUESTED

Calendar of Events

December 1: Deadline for SFTA Schol- in the Flint Hills on the Santa Fe September 17-19: Council Grove: KS. arly Research Grant applications. Trail. Rendezvous, Voices of the Wind People January 30, 2021: McPherson, KS. Qui- June 12: near Council Grove, KS. September 22-26: Bent’s Old Fort, CO. vira chapter, film festival. Symphony in the Flint Hills on the SFTA Symposium. January 10, 2021: Wagon Tracks submis- Santa Fe Trail. Due to the impact of COVID-19, please sion deadline for February issue. June 30: Lindsborg, KS. Mountain check locally for any delays or cancellations. Men on the Santa Fe Trail. Check www.2021sfts.com and https://san- February 9: McPherson, KS. "Chief tafetrail200.org. for additional dates and ac- Lucy" presentation by Pauline Sharp. July 10: McPherson, KS. Quivira tivities. Also check the Forts's websites before March 13: Wallace, KS. "Taking the Chapter bus tour planning an excursion. Smoky Hill Trail to Santa Fe," Fort Wal- July 16-18: Council Grove, KS. lace Museum. Gunfight on the Santa Fe Trail. March 25-24: Santa Fe, NM. New Mexico July 23-24: McPherson, KS. History Conference. Eastern McPherson County and April 22-23: Larned, KS. SFTA /NPS Marion County Santa Fe Trail Workshop and SFTA board meeting. Days. April 24-25: Larned, KS. Wet/Dry Chap- August 22: Galva, KS. Empire ter meeting. Days. May 14-15: Council Grove, KS. Santa Fe September 1: Arrow Rock, MO. Trail Bluegrass Festival. MRO chapter 200th activity. May 22: Fort Dodge, KS. DAR marker September 4-5: Fort Osage, MO. dedication. MRO chapter 200th activity. June 5: Baldwin City, KS. NPS sign September 6: Flint Hills, KS. dedication. Madonna Run. June 11: near Council Grove, KS. Sym- September 8: Prairie Village, MO. posium in coordination with Symphony MRO chapter 200th activity.

36 Wagon Tracks November 2020