HIGH PLAINS GUIDE FESTIVALS, FAIRS, AND RODEOS 2018

TABLE OF CONTENTS 10 16 24 Hobson’s Colorado The Life of a Choice: A Letter Abandoned County Sheriff from Fort Lyon 30 32 34 50 Years of The “Old Wells” Community of Cheyenne After That Theater County 36 38 44 414,000 Acres Lillian Cline A Journey of of Hidden Sapp Stones Treasure

Kiowa County Independent Publisher: Betsy Barnett 1316 Maine Street Editor: Priscilla Waggoner 47 P.O. Box 272 Layout and Design: William Eads, Colorado 81036 Brandt A Hundred (Plus) Years of Hanagans Kiowa County Independent © July 2018

kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | i ii | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com FESTIVALS, FAIRS, AND RODEOS

kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 1

EVENTS

KIOWA COUNTY FAIR & KIT CARSON DAY LINCOLN COUNTY FAIR & RODEO Kit Carson, Colorado RODEO Eads, Colorado September 1, 2018 Hugo, Colorado September 5-9, 2018 August 6-11, 2018 https://www.facebook. BACA COUNTY FAIR & http://seelincolncounty.com/ com/Kiowa-County- RODEO event/2018-lincoln-county-fair- Fair-2018-272585516634180/ Springfield, Colorado rodeo/ July 23-August 5, 2018 SAND & SAGE ROUNDUP https://www.facebook.com/ KIT CARSON COUNTY FAIR & Lamar, Colorado BacaFairAndRodeoInc/?ref=br_ PRO RODEO August 4-11, 2018 rs Burlington, Colorado https://www.sandandsageroundup. July 23-28, 2018 com/ ARK VALLEY FAIR & RODEO https://www.facebook.com/ Rocky Ford, Colorado Kit-Carson-County-Fair-Pro- Rodeo-164647266888216/ BENT COUNTY FAIR & August 15-19, 2018 RODEO www.arkvalleyfair.com Las Animas, Colorado CROWLEY COUNTY DAYS Ordway, Colorado July 21-28, 2018 GATEWAY CONCERT & https://www.facebook.com/ STREET DANCE July 20-29, 2018 bentcountyextension/ Holly, Colorado https://www.facebook.com/ CrowleyCountyDay/ September 29, 2018 MAINE STREET BASH https://www.facebook.com/ Eads, Colorado events/2079799958928659/ LAS ANIMAS COUNTY FAIR July 28, 2018 Trinidad, Colorado www.plainstheater.com/maine- DIAMOND RIO CONCERT July 24-28, 2018 street-bash1.html Burlington, Colorado https://www.facebook.com/ LasAnimasCountyFair/ July 28, 2018 CHEYENNE COUNTY FAIR & https://www.facebook.com/ RODEO events/670625796611668/ HOLLY GATEWAY CAR SHOW Cheyenne Wells, Colorado Holly, Colorado July 30 to August 4, 2018 TRINIDADDIO BLUES FEST September 29, 2018 https://www.facebook.com/ Trinidad, Colorado https://www.facebook.com/ cheyennecountyfairandrodeo/ events/2079799958928659/ August 24 & 25, 2018 trinidaddio.com DOWNTOWN CUSTOM & COLORADO STATE FAIR CLASSIC EXPO Pueblo, Colorado Lamar, Colorado August 24-September 3, 2018 August 17 & 18, 2018 https://www.coloradostatefair. https://www.facebook.com/ com/ events/1927250534202455/ kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 3

KIT CARSON DAY SEPTEMBER 1, 2018 THEME: “TAKE ME HOME, COUNTRY ROAD”

7-9 a.m. Breakfast, in the school lunchroom, Following Parade Family Games, north of school, sponsored by Class of 2020. sponsored by KCRD and hosted by Justin & Emily Golding. 8 a.m. Rodeo, at the Stephanie Paintin Memorial Arena. *Must be 4 & 7 p.m. Melodrama “Male Order Brides”, in registered before KC Day* Pool Hall on Main Street. Tickets available at Kit Carson Market, $7.00 10:30 a.m. Exhibits, in Community Building, ea. There will also be a performance exhibits check in Friday August Wednesday evening at 7:00 p.m. 31st, 5-9 pm. 5-7 p.m. Dinner, in school lunchroom, 11:30 a.m.-1 p.m. Free Barbecue, east side of sponsored by Class of 2020. Community Building; donations accepted and appreciated. 9 p.m.-1 a.m. Dance at Prairie Park, east of school. Dance to “Rodeo Road Apples”; 1 p.m. Duck Race, in front of Kit Carson $5.00 per person. (Inclement weather Market. Ducks can be purchased in dance will be in the old gym.) advance from Singing Grass Trading Company for $5.00 each or contact All Day *Vendors, on Main Street. (If Tara Gaynor. Ducks will be available interested in a spot to set up contact for purchase to 1 hour before race the business or home owner in the time on September 2nd. area you would like to set up.)

1:00 p.m. Parade line up and registration, *Register for “Who Came the in front of school with Ronald & Furthest”, at the Community Bldg. Shirley White and the National Winner receives their choice of Honor Society students. either 2 melodrama tickets or 2 dance tickets. 1:30 p.m. Parade, on Main Street, theme: “Take Me Home Country Road”.

2:30-3:30 p.m. Poker Run, at Once Was (formally Gade’s Hardware). $10/hand - $5/extra card. Acceptable transportation: walking, bicycle, riding lawnmower, motorcycle, 4-wheeler, golf cart. kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 5

By Priscilla Waggoner

blazing sunset through the “Welcome to Colorful Colorado” future when the simplicity of earli- broken window of a vacant, and don’t turn it off until they see er times will not even be a distant A tumble-down farm house. a skyline of skyscrapers in the dis- memory. They see powerful stories A rusted out feed truck in the tance, the blur of the abandoned just waiting to be imagined and middle of nowhere with ominous farmhouse is no more than further then told. But, above all, they see storm clouds overhead. proof of a dying lifestyle. To others art. Real, surprising, inspiring and A suspension bridge fending off who have been driving both tractors extraordinary art that embodies the nature on its way to a distant blue and trucks since they were 12 or 13 understated and often overlooked ribbon of the Arkansas. years old, the rusting, oxidized hood beauty resting at the heart of this These images and others are of a broken down feed truck in the most authentic part of Colorado. scattered like tumbleweeds through- field is as common to the landscape It’s that love of the art that led out the Canyonlands and High as this year’s wheat crop or last to their creation of @coloradoaban- Plains of Southeastern Colorado. year’s cattle. doned, an Instagram site where they And, yes, passersby will see in them But Vincent Gearhart and Lex display the images they’ve each cap- what they will. Nichols see something else in these tured on their own. To those who set their cruise images. Something…more. They Gearhart and Nichols are pro- control at 65 the moment they pass see vestiges of the past. They see a fessional photographers, each born

10 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com and raised in the region, each with his own remarkable talent and his own distinctive style. They’re also good friends, a relationship that goes back almost twenty years. Nichols first met Gearhart when Gearhart operated a silkscreen shop, and Nichols needed printing for the jerseys he wore in cycling compe- titions. Several years later, Nichols, who had been working for years as a professional photographer, began teaching classes in photography at Otero Junior College. Gear- hart was, in his words, “a point and shoot” photographer with the desire to learn more. After taking Nichols’ class (twice and the second class fi- nally “took”), Gearhart advanced to the next level and quickly began to explore all that photography had to offer. While it may have been Nichols who introduced Gearhart to a new level of photography, it was Gear- hart who, proficient as he already was in video production and Pho- toshop, introduced Nichols to the wonders of image-editing software and the infinite possibilities of ap- plying that software to already pow- erful images. “We used to show each other our work,” Lex explains, “and, one day, Vincent showed me an image he took of…” He hesitates, trying to recall the exact location. “Around Gobblers Knob,” Vin- cent interjects. “And the sunlight er in the exploration for other in- “With the rural-ness of where coming through the rafters of that teresting subjects, each one photo- we live,” Lex reflects, “you get just old place.” graphing whatever aspect ultimately a few miles outside of town, and “Right…” Lex smiles, remem- caught his eye. That soon blossomed it’s hard to drive these county roads bering. “I looked at that image Vin- into planned day trips several hun- and not see something that’s broken cent took, and I just thought…man, dred miles long that took them fur- down and dilapidated. Some peo- that is so cool.” ther and further afield. And they’ve ple say, ‘Clean up the crap in your Before long, they joined togeth- been rural explorers ever since. yard. Tear down your barn before it falls.’” He laughs, briefly. “But I just see it different than that. I drive past In maybe as short as ten years, a lot of some old barn that’s leaning, and I these things will be gone. People will never think…oh, man, I just want to cap- ture that image, just like it is. And I know they were here or what life was like. know if I don’t, someday I’ll wish I had, but it will be too late. All of We do what we do to give people a glimpse that just sparked something and...” He pauses, looking for the right into a life they never knew. words. “Well, it just put fuel on the kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 11 fire to seek more.” painted. The things they left behind. raphers also display the enormous For Lex, part of the intrigue is It’s like they just…left and didn’t respect and integrity Nichols and in capturing the moment as it hap- come back. You can’t help but won- Gearhart practice in all of their in- pens. For Vincent, it’s about a differ- der what happened.” teractions. One can only hope. ent aspect of time. “Things move so “Remember the Christmas “We always try to get permis- fast anymore,” he says in his quiet, tree?” Gearhart asks quietly, refer- sion from the owners of the prop- thoughtful way. “It’s like everything ring to an abandoned place they erty,” Gearhart explains. “And we is in a river. It’s all just floating past, photographed. It seemed that, ei- never tell anyone where we shot the and then it’s gone. I think you could ther through some sudden event or say we’re trying to preserve history. the slow but relentless decline that In maybe as short as ten years, a lot happens over time, life in the house of these things will be gone. People had simply disappeared, leaving fur- will never know they were here or niture in the living room, clothes what life was like. We do what we do still hanging in closets and a Christ- to give people a glimpse into a life mas tree that still bore ornaments. they never knew.” “Those ornaments…that was real- Glimpses into the lives of un- ly something,” he says. “You think known others is something the pho- how it must have been to live there tographers experience a lot on their at that time. You wonder, what hap- travels. It’s far from uncommon for pened? Where did they go?” As he them to go into dilapidated houses speaks, there’s a hint of wistful sor- vacant for years, only to discover row in Gearhart’s voice. that it’s full of belongings simply When Nichols and Gearhart left behind by the people who had, first embarked on their journeys, lit- presumably, once called the place tle did they know they were joining home. Those belongings, those rem- the ranks of a movement already nants of others’ lives cause both in progress and a whole new genre Nichols and Gearhart to be drawn of exploration. Rural exploration, to the history of the subject itself. or “Rurex” as it’s frequently called, photos. We don’t want anyone fol- “My dad was a Dust Bowl kid,” is becoming more and more pop- lowing behind us and taking some- Nichols says, “and he used to tell ular as some photographers in the thing that isn’t theirs or destroying us stories. That whole time—that’s United States and Europe explore something that should be left alone.” part of my story.” He pauses, grow- “the beauty and decay of forgot- “What’s the saying…?” Nichols ing quiet. “Some of the places we ten homesteads”. However, it’s not asks. find are so haunting. The way they known if other likeminded photog- “Take only photographs,” Gear- hart answers, “and leave only foot- prints.” “Right,” Nichols says. “That’s sort of like our... code.” Finding, framing and photo- graphing the subject is just the first part of the creative process. The second part is done alone as each man returns and, with all the care and precision of true artistry, goes on an individual journey in discov- ering, revealing, altering and, ulti- mately, bringing out the inner beau- ty of the subject that may be hidden by the ravages of time. And that is one place where the distinction in their respective vision becomes the most obvious. As Lex describes it, “Vincent is the king of little things. I’m a landscape, big photo guy.” This elicits a chuckle from Gear-

12 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com hart, who simply nods in agreement. degrees—what they do. And, as is In the meantime, their following The result of their work is tru- to be expected, these two men who and notoriety continues to grow. ly unique, distinct from each other have managed for years to work side Gearhart has taken over man- though they may be. The images by side on creative endeavors with- agement of the website, colo- seem to be a blend of photography out ego or anything other than a radoabandoned.com. He’s also and illustration, of the ordinary “50/50, split down the middle” phi- spearheading the marketing and made extraordinary, of a time that is losophy, they, likewise, are warm and promotion of their work and, with both past and present. Often, those encouraging to all those with whom the help of friends, has landed sev- eral Colorado Abandoned exhibits including, among others, recent shows at art galleries in Trinidad and the La Veta SPACe Gallery, all of which were very successful. They were also on exhibit in the Koshare Indian Museum in La Junta where their work was so well received that the exhibit was extended for several months. For his part, when he isn’t im- mersed in photography, Nichols pursues his music, the other deep passion of his life. As it turns out, Nichols is an award winning musi- cian, specifically in Native American music. In addition to releasing sev- en albums, Nichols recently com- posed and performed segments of the score for the PBS special “Life who view the images are reminded they communicate online, whether on the Arkansas” and is current- of something that, at some level, the person is a fan, a fledgling pho- ly composing new music for future is very familiar yet equally imbued tographer or a colleague in the art PBS projects. But it seems his great- with colors and lines and lights and form. In fact, they created a Face- est triumphs are his two daughters’ shadows that make it seem totally book page called Colorado Aban- burgeoning love of music, as they new and almost magical. doned Group as a forum for others accompany him on many of his per- Nichols brings it back down to wishing to share their images. formances, and his older daughter’s earth. “It’s all about composition,” he says. “Clarity and sharpness. A nice, crisp and clear image.” He is also quick to recognize that the genre of their work speaks to peo- ple with very different sensibilities. And that’s okay. “We’re our own clients,” he says. “We each work the images the way we think is best.” When, three years ago, Lex first put some of their images on Instagram under the name @colo- radoabandoned, neither he nor Vin- cent knew what to expect or how people would react. However, they soon discovered that there were a significant number of people with those “different sensibilities” as they quickly developed a following. Since then, they’ve learned that more and more people are doing—in varying kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 13 blossoming love of photography. “It’s my legacy,” he says with a fa- ther’s pride. “I’m passing on the talent to my children. I’m teaching them how to push the shutter.” Whether it’s the result of the forces of nature or the stroke of a key on a computer or the relentless bulldozer’s blade, more and more of the past is vanishing with greater and greater speed. Nonetheless, Lex Nichols and Vincent Gearhart— men who are part photographer, part artist, part documentarian and all storyteller—are capturing and preserving treasured images of old farmhouses, deserted gas stations and cafés, old coffee tins, decaying power plants and long gone vehicles the likes of which have disappeared life that was and will never be again exhibit of their work can do so by con- forever from the two lane back roads on these Canyonlands and High tacting Vincent Gearhart at 719-688- of rural America. In many ways, it Plains they call home. 7720 or via email at coloradoaban- can be said that they are thieves of More images from Colorado Aban- [email protected]. the most honorable kind, stopping doned can be found at their Instagram All images in this article are subject the plunder of time and preserving account of the same name (@colorado- to copyright and may not be reproduced for future generations to see these abandoned). Anyone interested in either in any form without expressed consent beautiful and silent testimonies to a purchasing an image or arranging an from Colorado Abandoned.

14 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com

THE LIFE OF A COUNTY SHERIFF

By Priscilla Waggoner

Biggest drug bust in Colorado history. Two pairs of feuding farmers. And a rash of unexplained cattle mutilations. Just another day.

eing the sheriff in any county et, calm voice with slow words he’s anywhere is a job not many thought out in advance such that Bmen are well suited to do. those who know him know he says But being the sheriff who’s on call what he means and means what he 365 days a year, 24 hours a day in says. He’s not one to seek the center a county that covers 1786 square of attention, but, if he finds himself miles while having only one depu- there, he usually fills the space with ty—if any deputy, at all—plus no a real good story. In fact, he’s proba- such thing as a cell phone and a ra- bly the best storyteller around. dio with reception so bad that some- When Watts was pressed to de- times there’s no way and no one to scribe himself, he was a little more call for help, if needed…? A man succinct. “Well, nothing bothers me would have to be crazy or a fool to much,” he said. “I just don’t get all take that job. But men did it. Differ- that excited.” ent men did it, for years. Watts was born and raised sev- From January 1, 1975 to De- en miles north of Eads, the county cember 31, 1978, that job was done seat of Kiowa County out on the by a Democrat. In a county that’s High Plains of Southeastern Colo- more than 90% Republican, that was rado. “We didn’t have much,” he re- a feat in itself. That Democrat, that calls. “We didn’t have a bathroom in man, that Sheriff of Kiowa Coun- the house or anything like that.” ty, Colorado was Mr. Larry Watts. As part of the 1909 Enlarged And it should be said up front and Homestead Act, his paternal straight out that Sheriff Watts is great-grandfather, who was half anything but crazy or a fool. Sioux, homesteaded the land and Larry Evan Watts is reminis- then returned to Caldwell, Kansas cent of a man of the Old West. At 77 where his young wife had just giv- years of age and 6’ 5” tall, he walks en birth to a baby boy in the 12’ by with an easy gait and stands, from 12’ stone house where they lived not habit more than anything else, with far from the Cherokee Strip. When one foot slightly ahead of the other Watts’ father was just nine months and his hand resting loosely on his old, the family made the return hip. When he speaks, it’s in a qui- journey to Eads, traveling almost

16 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com came from hard work and stood “My first big case was the doc- well over six feet tall. Watts doesn’t tor,” he starts. “The hospital admin- come across as a fighting man, and istrator got this doctor who come he tries his best to explain. “I nev- out of Kansas. They had a big meet- er went looking for it,” he says. “It ing at the courthouse to meet him. wasn’t like that. But…well…I guess Everybody liked him and was real you could say I never had a lot of happy we finally got a doctor here. problems with the girls, if you know Well, I’d been sheriff for three days what I mean.” He chuckles again. when I got a call from the District “That can tend to get a fella in trou- Attorney who said ‘you gotta go ar- ble.” rest this guy because he’s a fake’. So, As a young man, Watts fell in I went to that doctor’s house—he love with his first wife, Judy, and was living in a trailer house—and together they had four daugh- I just told him, you’re not a doctor ters. Their family moved to Boul- and you’re under arrest. I put the der where, along with Stan, Watts handcuffs on him and brought him owned and operated a prosperous out of there. I had an awful lot of barbershop on the famous area people who was kinda mad at me known as “the hill”. But roots run at the time and told me I didn’t deep in the Watts family, and, after know what I was doing. One of ‘em ten years, they returned to their in town here even said ‘I know we home in Kiowa County. shouldn’t have elected you’. You Photo courtesy Sherri Mabe. Sadly, Judy died a tragic death in shoulda heard him. But I come to January of 1973, leaving him a sin- find out this guy was doctoring in 400 miles in a covered wagon. gle father of four. Kansas—he wanted to be a doctor It’s no surprise that Larry’s fa- In 1974, the Democratic Party real bad but the only thing he could ther grew up to be a cowboy, work- came to Watts and asked him to run administer was aspirin. Well, a pa- ing for a time for the famous Eads for sheriff. “I told them I couldn’t,” Livestock Company where he met Watts says. “With four little girls, I and fell in love with Myra, the live- just couldn’t.” stock company cook who went on to In late June of that same year, become his wife and the mother of Larry married his second wife, Kar- their children. Larry was the second en. “And here they come again,” he son of four children. He describes says. “The vacancy committee told his mother as “a saint”. He describes me ‘now that you have help with his father as a hard-working man them kids, you can run for sheriff. who was “strict” with his sons. We’ll put you on the late ballot’.” Watts grew up working the fam- He was the first Democrat elect- ily ranch. Once he hit high school, ed to the job in longer than anyone he was known for being a bit of a could remember. fighter, something born in his rela- “Not knowing a lot about being tionship with his best friend and old- a sheriff,” he says, taking a sip of er brother, Stan. Asked about those coffee and leaning back in his chair, teenage years, Watts smiles and “I had to go to school. If I was gon- weighs his words before answering. na do it, I was gonna make sure I “Well, I’ll put it this way,” he begins did the best job I could. So, I went to slowly with a chuckle. “When my Colorado Springs. That was the best folks went to town on the weekends school in the state. That’s where I to do business, Stan pretty much learned about search and seizure made me pay for everything I’d done and probable cause and all sorts wrong during the week.” of things the other schools didn’t But outside the family, it was the teach.” Watts brothers against anybody else Larry was sworn into office the who was brave enough—or foolish first of January of 1975, and his on enough—to take on the young men the job training was, basically, bap- who had the kind of strength that tism by fire. kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 17 tient had died, so they come from farmer was plowing there. And he to prevent the owner of an oil rig Kansas and got him and tried him just pulled that plow up out of the from entering his property. The there. But he got loose. I heard he ground and come up there in road farmer said he hadn’t been paid for went to Butte, Montana and got in gear with that big four wheel drive the lease. When Watts showed up, at a service hospital as a doctor and, tractor tools and he just run over he spoke first to the owner of the after about three veterans died, well, the front of that pickup. Ironed the rig—who had called him—and then Montana put him away forever.” radiator back over the fan and the to the farmer, who was still in his Larry pauses with just the slightest carburetor down over the motor and truck. The farmer also had a shot- smile. “You know, after that whole just broke the front wheel off. And gun sitting across his lap, which he thing was done, I figured we’d saved that farmer told that guy with the made no attempt to hide. So, Watts some lives. So, I asked that fella who pickup, ‘now, you get that right out- advised the owner of the rig to get got so mad if he was going to apol- ta here’. Well, he did.” Larry chuck- the company to pay the farmer what ogize. He never did.” les. “He had about a hundred feet to he was due before going through the After that, the day to day of the go and I don’t know how he got that gate. “Because, well, he’ll shoot you job kicked in. “I had two people on thing started and moved, but he did. if you try,” he told him. The own- the east of the county who fought I suppose he was a little nervous, er of the rig didn’t like that answer all the time,” he recalls, “and two you know.” As might be expected, and told Watts to arrest the farmer. people on the west end who fought the men ended up in court, and the Watts’ response was simple. “I will. all the time. This county is 96 miles man from La Junta got a new truck When he shoots you.” The farmer long from one end to the other, and out of the deal. got paid that afternoon. I knew, pretty much every morning The east end was no calmer. “That’s just about what I had in when I got up, I was gonna go 40 “One guy bought the ground from the daytime. People fighting over a miles in one direction or the other.” another one.” Again, he shakes his fence line or cattle or something,” He describes an incident when head. “Total wreck. All the time. Watts pauses, taking a sip of coffee things got pretty heated between He’s the one who leased an airplane and reflecting on the job, as a whole. the two farmers on the west end. in Colorado Springs and didn’t pay “Most people looked after each oth- “One of those farmers hired a up. Well, three guys come to get it, er in the day time. But when they guy to come out of La Junta to farm and that guy had parked a big four were sleeping, well, they counted on for a day or two. And he said, ‘Could wheel tractor in front of it and an- me to look after them at night.” you bring your pickup?’ and, well, other tractor behind one wing of it During his first year as sheriff, he did. So, that farmer said, ‘just and another tractor behind the oth- Watts had Larry Rehm as his un- hook up to this propane tank here er wing. They couldn’t get it out. dersheriff, a man he regarded highly. and go right across that field there.’ Well, inside the cab of that big trac- But Rehm ran a successful terracing Problem was it wasn’t his field.” He tor, that guy had put a rattlesnake business and, at the end of 1975, de- shakes his head. “Well, the other in there so’s if you got in there and cided he could no longer afford the started it…well, I just happened to time away. “So, all of ‘76, I worked see the snake. So we hooked on and alone,” Watts continues. “I just dragged the smaller tractor out of didn’t find anybody I thought was the way. And I told those three guys going to be right.” to get under that one wing there At that point, Watts puts down and I’ll get under the other wing— his coffee, leans forward in his chair, because I’m taller, you know—and rests his elbows on his knees and we’ll just pick the plane up and carry folds his hands so that they hang it outta there. And we did. So, they loosely between his legs. There’s flew it back to Eads, where we put a slight change in his voice, as if it in the hangar. But that farmer, he something about those years still had a gun in the plane, so he come to bothers him today. “The worst part get it. I asked him, ‘What about the about the ’76 deal,” he says slowly, snake in that tractor?’ And he said, “were the cattle mutilations. They well, I thought I had a mouse or two started with the last part of ’75 and in there.” went all the way through ’76. I’ll tell Larry just sits back in his chair you, those just about got the best and laughs. of me. I got to where I didn’t even He describes another incident want to answer the call. Seemed where he got a call about a farmer like if somebody just saw a falling who had put a chain across his gate star, they thought that…well…they

18 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com

didn’t know what to think. Nobody tigation sent down a few agents to said don’t ever bring another one of did.” investigate the incidents. Several them cattle here again. Not ever.” Yup. That’s right. Cattle mutila- years later, a report was published, He looks up, gauging whether tions. listing the cause of death as coyotes. to tell one more story or not and de- “I’ll tell you, I seen things… Larry just nods. “The idea scared cides to continue. “One night, down stuff you can’t even imagine,” he ‘em at CBI. Scared ‘em at that school by Lower Queens, a dead cow ended continues. “George Arnell—that sheriff up in Elbert County—he was the first one to find one. And I told ‘em you can’t take a picture for 24 hours. then us sheriffs out here, we’d talk The picture won’t come out. Well, they didn’t be- about what each of us was finding, you know, and...” He grows silent, lieve me, and then they tried it and seen I was right. still working it out in his mind. “I seen some that had their nose cut That scared ‘em so bad, they said don’t ever bring off or their tongue cut off and usu- another one of them cattle here again. ally an eye gone. One eye. Some- times part of an ear. Cows would have maybe all their tits burned up at Fort Collins. That veterinary up. Well, George Martin—the sher- off—or looked like they was burned school. CBI wanted one of them iff down in Prowers—he had one, off anyway. And their female part cattle taken to the school to be ex- too, just south of the county line. back behind was gone. But there amined—I got one to them in four Both on the same night. George was never any blood.” He absently or five hours. It was a yearling from had more money than I did, and he rubs his hands together. “The first the same place I saw the first one, brought a veterinarian out. All that one I ever looked at was south of and it had a perfect heart cut out of was missing on mine was the tits, Towner. I got the call early in the its hip. That’s all that was wrong half the tongue and an eye. That’s morning. That rancher had been with him. Well, they tried to re- all. Well, when that vet cut her open, checkin’ the cattle—they’d been on produce that cut, and they couldn’t. we seen her heart was gone, her liv- a long haul and he’d checked ‘em Then they set up them big tripods er was gone, her lungs were gone, just two hours before. They was all for cameras, and I told ‘em, you her ovaries. And no visible means in the corral with a 6’ fence. There can’t take a picture yet. And they of getting those parts out of there was no way they coulda got out. But said, what are you talkin’ about, and and no blood in her. No blood and when he went out at six o’clock, he I told ‘em you can’t take a picture for no visible means of how those parts found a dead steer outside of that 24 hours. The picture won’t come were gotten out.” He pauses. “Now, corral. That steer was still warm. I out. Well, they didn’t believe me, that’ll scare you. That vet just fin- felt him.” He just shakes his head. and then they tried it and seen I was ished up and left. Nobody wants to The Colorado Bureau of Inves- right. That scared ‘em so bad, they be around something like that, you

20 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 21 know? You just don’t.” that guy asked me if I woulda shot As, at times, the only law in him, and I said, yes.” Years later, the area, Watts was occasionally Larry ran into the KBI agent while called upon to help with operations he was looking for some stolen cat- that put him right in the middle of tle in Kansas. He was working as the harm’s way. That is precisely where sheriff of Cottonwood Falls, Kan- he found himself late one night out sas. in the middle of nowhere. An agent But that wasn’t Watts’ biggest with the Kansas Bureau of Investi- drug bust. In 1977, an airplane ran gation had set up a sting operation out of fuel and went down with to buy a large amount of marijua- 750 pounds of Colombian mari- na, and the sale turned out to be juana, valued at well over a million just over the Kansas-Colorado line, dollars. “He’d flown up from Old requiring a presence from Colo- Mexico,” Watts explains, “and was rado law enforcement. Sometime supposed to set down on the high- after midnight, the buyers showed way out by Punkin Center because up, having driven from Colorado they was comin’ out of Colorado Springs. Watts and the KBI agent Springs to meet him. But the smell had a “big suitcase full of cash.” The of that marijuana was so strong…” buyers had 108 pounds of marijua- He starts to chuckle again. “He got na and guns. A lot of guns. disoriented and put it down on a “They had an AR-15 with two country road out by Galatea. It was accepts for what it was, deferring to 21-round clips,” Larry says, “and Penny Weirich comin’ into work at his mother. “She was relieved when a 9 millimeter and two .357 mags. the café who saw it. She seen this I lost,” he says. “She never rested a They held them guns on us, but the plane and reported some guy haulin’ day while I was in office.” And, in mistake they made was not friskin’ something out of there and settin’ it true fashion, he says one of his lat- us down. Well, we were on a road up by the fence. And that was…that er successors, Gary Rehm, was the that, maybe, had one car pass an was pretty mixed up.” best sheriff Kiowa County ever had. hour, but a car drove by and I told At that point, it seems the sto- And he humbly dismisses being told that guy that he better count the rytelling is done, and Larry sits that Gary Rehm said the same of money before somebody else come back in his chair, visibly relaxed, him. along. Well, that guy cut a whole and places his hands on his knees. In all the stories Larry Watts handful of money, you know, the “You know,” he muses, “being sorta tells, he never portrays himself as way they do cards, and when he did big, like I am, it makes you a target anyone other than just an ordinary that, he let that AR-15 down. And for some men who think they got man doing his job, even when the I pulled out my .38 and put it right something to prove. And maybe a story itself may prove he’s anything against his head. His eyes kinda few times, I thought, well, this old but just an ordinary man. In these shifted, and I told him, now, if you Indian ain’t afraid to give as good as days of unnecessary, false bravado, even breathe, you’re gonna die, so, he gets. But, see, I was never really when tempers seem to run so high you keep that in mind. Then that afraid of anyone. I just didn’t want and anger seems to flare so quick- KBI agent went around and jerked to treat anyone badly. I didn’t want ly, a calm and slow voice of decency that guy out of the car and…” He to be unfair. I had a gun, but I nev- provides a welcome and much need- laughs. “Turns out we arrested one er carried it on me because I didn’t ed respite. Is it reminiscent of the of them in Colorado and the other want to turn things into something true Old West as old movies might one in Kansas.” He takes a sip of his they didn’t need to be. I tried to just lead us to believe? Maybe so. But coffee. “You know, that whole deal stand back and do things the right probably not. What matters is the felt like it lasted an eternity when it way. And I think that’s why things storytellers among us with lessons was probably no more’n a minute or never really got out of hand. I think to be learned. Lessons about who two. But when I was standing there, people understand that, as sheriff, we are. About where we go wrong. I thought, there’s a good chance I’m you’re just doing what you gotta About things we can’t explain. And not gonna make it out of this one do when they know you’re going to if all that seems too lofty for some, and I don’t want to die like this, out treat ‘em right.” then let it be said—straight up— in the middle of nowhere on a dirt When re-election came around, that those who hear the tales told by road. I thought, well, I’ve got this Kiowa County had one of the larg- former Sheriff Larry Evan Watts gun here, so at least there’ll be a est voter turn outs on record. Watts have heard stories they’ll not soon fight. It was now or never. Later on, lost by 25 votes. And even that he forget.

22 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 23 HOBSON’S CHOICE: A LETTER FROM FORT LYON

By Jeff C. Campbell

Army hospital in November 1865, came back to Colorado and lived out his life in the Pueblo environs. For this “letter” Campbell chose a fictitious brother Pvt. Jesse Rain- ey, Co. G, 1st Reg. Cav., Colorado [U.S.] Vols., a composite of several 1st Regiment soldiers who served with Majors Anthony and Wyn- koop, CPT Soule & LT Cramer, as well as other soldiers who testified and wrote in diaries about 1864 epi- sodes and Ft. Lyon. Hobson’s choice is the choice of taking what is offered or nothing at all; lack of an alternative.

January 20, 1865 1-year-old Private John Wes- mad that they wanted to turn their Fort Lyon, Colorado Terr. ley Rainey served with 1LT guns (howitzers) on Chivington. As 3Horace Baldwin’s Ft. Lyon it was, these empathetic Co. G men My Dear Sisters, Rebecca and Sar- Battery (Co. G, 1st Reg. Cav.) at sided with their comrades led by ah, Sand Creek. From official records CPT Soule and LT Cramer, in obey- and testimonies it appears Baldwin’s ing orders to fire but intentionally It has been so long since I wrote. men, sympathetic with Ft. Lyon offi- not hitting the intended targets. Hope Mother is recooperating well. cers and men, in action, stood down Born in 1833 he was second Please tell all I wish I was in our firing their howitzers with “little or generation Irish from Ulster born in home near Antrim. Perhaps one day no effect.” A witness in the village America. The Raineys were Quakers soon. It’s very cold here. We’ve been later told an interviewer that they who fled Northern Ireland to escape destitute for mail. I’ve read yours aimed high with the intention shells persecution. Campbell’s great-great from Aug. ‘til it’s worn. My britches would go over the village and the grandmother, Margaret Rainey are near wore out. Our new uniforms people. Another, Co. G artilleryman, would have been John’s father’s sis- are lost somewhere with our pay. Pvt. Isaac Clarke wrote they were so ter. John mustered out at Ft. Riley’s The U. S. Paymaster died Christmas

24 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 25 Sisters that I can’t reckon what hap- pened with the Good Book. The Reverend Col. Chivington, an Ohio boy to boot & a preacher in so many words said he couldn’t see how any man could not do the Lord’s Work in killing these savages. I spent many days on the trail with some of the chiefs like One Eye and spoke with Niwot – Left Hand in as good English as you or I. They were God’s creatures as are we. I thought of grandpa Rainey who told of them leaving the British & Anglican thumb for being persecuted for be- ing Friends in Ulster. These Indians came to us making great efforts for peace. We betrayed them. Many of the boys here feel same as me. I tell you Sister, as long as I live I can never clear the sight of those women and children I came to know being butchered by God fearing Eve. Your socks and linsey-woolseys Antelope the Cheyenne and my men. We ran out of shells for our arrived while we were up in Smokey friend One Eye, a good chief were little cannons after we shot over the Hill country gathering up some all killed Some think Black Kettle village into the prairie, but those child captives Chief Left Hand & and my young friend Bill Guerrier, Thirdster boys went up the creek White Antelope & others traded for. the teamster I wrote about, were after them in the sand. I don’t think Major Winecoop who led us there killed. One Eye’s wife was shot in I can find forgiveness in my heart has returned to Lyon and things are the gut and died close to him. for the officers who wouldn’t stop in better order. He’s a good officer, Our regimental majors have the guns from firing into them. The been with him since ’61. My Lieut. done some good for us. Many don’t carnage was awful. We were adrift, Baldwin is returning to McLain’s like Maj. Anthony. He’s cured of the our Sergeant told us to stay out of Artillery. His cherished horse Poker red face from the scurvy. Have to say it. One Thirdster, a German from was killed on Sand Creek Nov. 29. I can’t figure Maj. Downing, there’s Franktown, tried to stop them for Forgive my hand. This nub of pen- a bad fire burning inside him. He’s fear of hitting his daughter who he cil is near gone. Paper is a premium had the devil prodding at him since thought was in the camp. Our own here. losing so many men at Pigeon’s were shot at by third. Mr. Haire, the cobbler I wrote Ranch. All the boys & most officers A Scotsman named Moonlight you from Circleville, Pickaway Co., find Maj. Winecoop, his wife & chil- has taken over Colorado from Chiv- Ohio lent me some fools cap for this. dren endearing. I don’t think there’s ington. He’s reforming the boys He’s in Co. D. Met him in the moun- a mountain he wouldn’t assail for us. into a battalion of 6 veteran com- tains before the war. He calls his Ned’s a good soldier’s officer. They panies, since we’ve lost so many. I horse Buckeye. all got us potatoes and anti-scorbu- think I’ll stay on, Brother John W. I wish I could tell you of good tics. The plague of scurvy that hit is staying on. Col. Tappan was here times here. We had a very unset- this post has waned. Ned worked a with a broke leg and was hot. You tling time of it this fall. We & our favor from Gen. Jim Carleton, an remember Joe Cramer the miner I officers have been saddled with one old-time regular soldier. He beat knew in the mountains? He broke Hobson’s Choice after the other. Did Hobson when we took ten crates of his back in August but was at Sandy the corn & oats harvest well? We’re new Sharp’s carbines of the .52 cal- creek and he’s so angry at Chiving- short of men in our company “G.” ibre and put those Starrs away and ton & Downing and that other col- The boys that hadn’t mustered out threw the key. One of our men most onel Shoop he’s started writing let- in Sept. have left very quick since the lost a hand firing his. Might as well ters. Shoop was a tough soldier, but affair with our friendly Indians on use a bung mallet to stop Noah’s betrayed us. Lt. Cramer & his boys Sand Creek. We’ve heard good men flood. near to got in a shooting fight with like Left Hand the Arapaho, White It worries & saddens me dear Capt. Cree’s Thirdsters when they

26 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com went to check on old Colonel Bent called Jack Smith still where he was back to Lyon by the tenth of Dec. who had relatives in the camps. murdered, a prisoner. We’re con- The old Major, Rev. Chivington got Last week we read a paper from founded how our promises, our word on the first stage to Denver. We just Black Hawk that said the boys of the to these families could be broken so don’t know what to make of him. He Third were coming home saying the brashly. What must people think of changed from the officer who drilled fight at Sand creek was no less than us if they hear about these cowards with us in ’61 and marched with us a slaughter and the details were so who killed surrendered women and to Santa Fe. We expect he went to horrorful they could not, would not children? Denver to tell of his glories as when print the descriptions. Dear God, the camp dogs and he left us on the Rio Grand in ’62. I am afraid Sister in this distress some of the Indian ponies have The things done on the field I think of little else. It’s hard to get wandered into our pickets. Maj. An- would make the hardest man sick. I my thoughts strait. How are the thony is disgusted & leaving for the can never get that out of my mind. Campbell cousins doing? I heard a East in the next day or two. I will Major W. will get things done. Col. couple got captured by the rebs. try to get this letter in the pouch for M-light is out for a clean sweep too. You recall mention of that jaun- the Eastbound mail coach. We think A fellow wrote me, A little Moon- light is a good disinfectant. It em- barrasses me to wear the same uni- It embarrasses me to wear the same form as killers & who abused women and children, even unto after death. uniform as those who killed and abused I am ashamed, we left all them mu- women and children, even unto after death. tilated and all on the ground. Many only had what clothes they were wearing. We destroyed their food & ty young abolitionist Capt. Soule? I Major A. could have done more to as we left Capt. Jay Johnson’ provost thought Chivington was going to stop the fight, but he did get Co. D guard burned the village. I remem- have him shot out there. The boys & K out of the road of wild firing ber when he joined up as a private in with Soule & Cramer made sure to from the Third. Without regard ’61, just a lad in his early twenties. stand fast. We sided with them. In they fired over our heads. A. is go- One of the First boys who joined up silence, we numbered ten dozen, but ing to Washington. The last Denver with the Third told me this Captain like Joe Cramer said, they would paper says there’s an investigation played a game of shooting Indians think twice before bucking against coming. that had covered themselves up in the First. Those Thirdsters, they call the sand with blankets. If you see Uncle Jess thank him Bloody now and some of our First Pray for me, Sisters. My prayers for his tobacco. I shared a bit with comrades took scalps, blankets, and are for this terrible crucible of war my bunk mate, William, that Buck- silver cones they hung in their hair. to be done. I look to the day I may eye from Zanesville. He’s a clerk for We stayed at the village for two come back to the green hills of the Post Adjt. and he copies import- days with the New Mexico lt. Can- Guernsey County & the U. P. church ant letters into the fort ledger. He non. Chiv and Downing sent Maj. on that knoll at Antrim. God bless said when Winecoop got here he A away very soon after. We went to mother and the family. Write if was hot over the disgrace & betray- down Sandy to the Arkansas & into you hear from Father. The last you al is how he said it. He’d got letters Kansas for sixty or more miles. It wrote he is in Georgia. from Soul & Joe. Ned is what they got cold. The Third’s horses were call the Major. Zanesville tells me dying a dozen or so a day. Chiving- Your affectionate brother, Col. Ford of the Second is going to ton & Shoop didn’t have the stom- Jesse take over this section and his regi- ach for a campaign, so we tuck tail ment is coming home from Kansas. Ford told Ned to look into matters here. I hear the Major is all about taking affidavits as I write. Capt. Booth is an Englishman with the 11th Kans. Cav. came over here to look for General Curtis at the end of December. They saw bodies still frozen out there where they fell. One squaw had hung herself and they found young John, the one they kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 27 SCAN WITH YOUR PHONE AND GO DIRECTLY TO WEBSITES

Colorado Abandoned Comanche National Comanche National Comanche National Grasslands Grasslands Grasslands

Comanche National Hanagan Farms Fine Art by Sherri Mabe AuthentiCITY Photos Grasslands by Ty

28 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 29 #557 after that. By Jeff C. Campbell

Photo courtesy Sherri Mabe.

There, beyond the next and after that down on her mane were ten silver standing in a row of lonely silhouettes hairs probably some peeled larch or tamarack no more, no less, not Blackie from some man-made forest just another horse of the same color in in Montana memories of Starvation Pass

Once carrying R.E.A. current, pulses of Some thought she was black hearted conversations converted to electric They said she bit for no good reason noise, or A/C, A/C, A/C heating and but would always come back to the pole turning fans this way, next after the last from the incandescent power security holding cross roads, where she didn’t care about back the night like ghosts, standing power or noise in talking boxes sitting on in a row card tables

Now abandoned, secret buried cables Alone like the bare poles, standing in the prairie losing their creosote soaked, black That one, next after the next one worn off Always did love the smell, maybe she did rubbed smooth about 15 hands high but she was there, like the limbless tree above seasons of grass Blackie swayed until her back wore out with sores to a luster, the barkless, leafless on a sway that couldn’t take a saddle needle-in-the-sky tree any more than the electric pole could take the heave of a Some thought about Blackie’s parasites spring tornado, and is gone, now, near the withers on her right side there beyond the next maybe got to her brain and spine, maybe and after that. Blackie’s name wasn’t a color a light colored bay with a star and one white sock © July 16, 2013, somewhere east of Eads, Colorado. Revised 07-04-18 Knew a bay mare once, named Silver Travel well. No hi-ho and away but Jeff C. Campbell

30 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 31 PICKETWIRE BRINGS 50 YEARS OF COMMUNITY THEATER TO SOUTHEASTERN COLORADO

By Betsy Barnett

he Picketwire Center for the can see many architectural elements Performing & Visual Arts, that have been allowed to remain in Trecognized by the State of the historical building that was at Colorado as the longest, continu- one time a school house. The lob- ously running community theatre by is quaint and homey and leads remaining in Colorado that owns you into the massive auditorium its own building, is celebrating 50 that seats nearly 270 people on the years of live community theatre in bottom level and another 50 in the the Arkansas Valley in July. balcony. The stage can only be de- Entering the Picketwire Center scribed as a spacious broad expanse for Performing & Visual Arts one of varying levels, well-designed sets, massive curtains, and a large screen ater, enjoying a live musical produc- backdrop that enhances scenes with tion that can only be described as the stunning visual technology the stunningly spectacular, and you’re theater can use. While sitting in NOT in the front range of Colo- a comfortable seat waiting for the rado, or any other large city in the performance to begin you can enjoy country. looking around the sides and ceiling The Picketwire Center for Per- of this theater and appreciate the forming & Visual Arts has been a structural and design attributes of standard in the La Junta area and 50 years of theater history repre- a little known gem for the past 50 sented and on display. years. This summer the Picketwire The musicians in the pit slow- Theater has been celebrating their ly recede warming up their instru- impressive anniversary with a gala ments, a slow hush comes over the event, a night of memories from crowd, and the curtain rises on this, 50 years of past performances and the 50th Anniversary performance performers, and the two-week run at the Picketwire. The presenta- of their summer musical, My Fair tion is My Fair Lady and the act- Lady. ing, the scenery, and the musical The founder of this amazing performances are stunning! When non-profit group, Mickie Mill- the final curtain falls, you will be ab- er-Knight arrived in La Junta from solutely floored and wonder how it Texas to be an art teacher, among is that for the past three hours you other endeavors. By 1968, she de- have been sitting in an amazing the- cided to go for a dream she had har-

32 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com bored for many years—that being Clyde in July, Agnes of God in Sep- Performing & Visual Arts is located the establishment of a performance tember, and the holiday season spe- at 802 San Juan Avenue in La Junta. theater in her new home town of cial, A Christmas Carol that required The theater has recently installed a La Junta. The Picketwire Theater nearly 100 performers and support ticketing system where theater-go- non-profit board was organized and personnel. In addition, the players ers can pick out their special seat a few years later, Miller-Knight and supported an exceptionally success- and purchase them in advance. Sim- the board renovated an old school ful children’s theater over the sum- ply go online to https://www.pick- building into the theater that is mer producing the play Madagascar. etwireplayers.org/tickets/ and fol- still used today. During her years The 2018 season, in this their low the steps. of involvement in the theater, Mill- anniversary year, will see four more er-Knight produced some 40 plays. large productions on the schedule. The Picketwire Theater has They include The Odd Couple (Fe- served as a beacon of art and cul- male Version) that was performed tural enhancement for years. Since in April. My Fair Lady represents 1968 they have put on nearly 150 the summer production, and there productions including 575 perfor- was also a summer children’s the- mances. Nearly 2,000 people have ater again this year. Going into the been involved with the productions fall, Dracula will be on the stage in through the years. October. Finally, the company will In order to describe the impres- take on an original musical entitled sive depth and breadth of the per- Nuncrackers: The Nunsense Christmas formances, last year, the Picketwire Musical to be performed in mid-De- Theater produced and performed cember as part of the holiday sea- four full-fledged musicals including son. The Great Gatsby in April, Bonnie & The Picketwire Center for the kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | FESTIVALS, FAIRS, AND RODEOS | 33 THE “OLD WELLS” OF CHEYENNE COUNTY

By Priscilla Waggoner

ost people who grew up These days, the truth about life Platte River and Cherry Creek met, watching Westerns were “on the frontier” reveals a much having heard rumors of small gold Mswept away by the ro- more grisly, grueling existence, es- deposits. Lucky for him (not so for mance on the big screen. It’s a nat- pecially for those non-indigenous others) they found a small depos- ural enough reaction. Spend enough individuals who came to this land it in July of that same year. In no hours in a dark theater munching unprepared, uninformed and un- time, word spread that “gold lay in (preferably buttered) popcorn with aware that their desire for fortune the hills of Colorado”, and, by 1859, the likes of Eastwood or McQueen may very well cost them their lives. hordes of miners were swarming (not to mention the Duke, Coop, Gold has an unequalled allure into the territory, intent on staking Fonda or Stewart) staring down to those who seek instant wealth a claim and making their fortune at from the big screen, and you’ll glad- above all else. A mere rumor of its the foot of the great Rockies. ly join the ranks of those who swear discovery can—and has—spread to For many, many years--long be- that, in the old days on the frontier, such an extent that even unprov- fore William Greeneberry Russell good guys were always clean with en claims call out across miles and even knew the Colorado Territo- nice boots and really smart, loyal miles of open, merciless prairie with ry existed--the headwaters of the horses while the bad guys all wore more false promise and deadly per- Smoky Hill River with its limestone dirty clothes and had bad teeth. sistence than the Sirens called to Ul- banks was a significant site for the Battle scenes were especially anti- ysses. (It’s not called “gold fever” for tribes who hunted and resided in the septic. If shot, people were either nothin’.) Such was the case in 1848 region. just “winged” or they died. And, if with the discovery of gold at Sut- For those passing through with they died, they usually did it quick- ter’s Mill in California, and the en- “no eyes to see”, the sandy creek was ly and with a remarkable absence of suing “rush” was historic. However, dry, offering no water to even those blood. (There were exceptions, of the flash in the pan was exactly that most desperate to find it. But oth- course; sometimes, someone lived and largely over by the mid-1850s, ers—those Indian tribes who hunt- long enough to curse, confess or leaving miners in search of new ed and roamed in the area—knew profess undying love—in 25 words sites of promise. In May of 1858, better. Before 1830, it might have or less--before staring briefly into William Greeneberry Russell (three been the Pawnee, the Kiowa or the space and then going limp as if their names? he must have been rich) or- Comanches, and, later, the Cheyenne plug had just been pulled.) ganized an expedition to where the or the Arapahoe. Regardless of who

34 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com was the first to see, all soon knew Trail” and, in 1859, was no longer nents were defeated. that the dry earth was a disguise, traveled. Ultimately, the Butterfield Over- for, beneath the surface, there were Yet, the trail was not dead. land Dispatch route was deemed fi- springs such that one could scoop In 1860, David Butterfield (oddly nancially unsuccessful and was sold out a handful of sand and, within enough, no relation to the other) to Wells Fargo who vowed to make moments, the hole would fill with managed to arouse enough interest it work. But it was not the Indians water. in the trail to fund another survey- who were the ultimate demise of the Using their hands, the Indians ing party. Lieutenant Julian Fitch, stagecoach trail. It was the railroad. began to dig wells fed by the springs along with four men of the US Sig- Even with the on-going conflict, below. Then they began to dig into nal Corps, Colonel Isaac Eaton and Indian Wells continued to be inhab- the banks of the stream, fashioning his party of 26 “constructionists” ited and actually was the site of out of the limestone shallow caves plus an escort of 250 cavalry left several dwellings making up a small that provided shelter from the hot- Ellsworth on July 14th and began commercial district that included test of days and respite from the actual work on the road. “Stations”, several stores, Johnnie White’s sa- rigors of a buffalo hunt. Even John some no more than pens holding loon and a blacksmith shop. By this C. Fremont—the man known as the fresh horses and others providing time, the size of the cave was so Pathfinder and the first white man food and other accommodations, immense—and the span of its roof to have allegedly traveled in the were constructed, many only 12 so expansive—that people began to area—made no mention of the oa- miles apart. One such station was fear the ceiling wouldn’t hold. sis when he followed the river along the site at Indian Wells. Having When the railroad finally made what was known as the Smoky Hill been discovered by Fitch and his it to the site of the small “town”, Trail in the year 1844. men, another well was dug and the it dug another well and provided Had expeditions ended with caves were expanded, one reaching enough support so that water could Fremont, had William Greene- a depth of more than 30 feet and be piped to the railroad. However, berry Russell never declared gold providing enough room for a stage- they soon discovered another, clos- was found in Cherry Creek, Indian coach and team of six horses to be er well that was better established. Wells, as they were once known, driven inside and turned around. With this discovery, the group of might have remained as they were, Finally, five years later, in 1865, dwellings were moved from the cave undisturbed and untouched except Butterfield himself rode the first to a location about 5 miles south. for those who used it for temporary coach to Denver, arriving on Sep- That location is now the site of the respite. But that was simply not to tember 22nd. The venture was de- town of Cheyenne Wells. be. scribed by investors as a great suc- The wells and caves, called the During the California gold rush, cess. However, these were men of “Old Wells”, continued to be acces- miners and others followed routes business not men of the plains, and sible until the late 1930s when, out along the Platte and Arkansas. they had seriously underestimated of fear of possible injury to those These trails were well traveled and the one opponent more dedicated to who went exploring, the entrance offered as much a measure of safe the region than they were. The Indi- was dynamited and sealed perma- passage as could be found in travel ans. nently shut. There’s some disagree- of that type. But Cherry Creek and Almost from the beginning, the ment over who actually did the dy- nearby Denver lay between the two tribes in the area put up serious and namiting. Some say it was the owner trails and could not be directly ac- deadly resistance to the infringe- who walked in, laid the fuse, struck a cessed by either one. The best—and ment the Butterfield Overland Dis- match and sentenced the caves that fastest by, supposedly, 100 miles— patch had made upon their lands. had once been so full of life to a fu- trail was the Smoky Hill Trail, re- Five forts were built along the ture of darkness and silence. Others named the Butterfield Trail for the length of the trail, but even with say it was the work of the Civilian man who paid to have it surveyed. troops permanently stationed on Conservation Corps and was blasted While this trail was more direct guard, the ability of the Indians to when they were here in 1938. and, consequently, shorter, it was appear out of nowhere, attack with Regardless of who actually lit also treacherous and loaded with heart stopping violence and intent the match, those wells remain in dangers, not the least of which was only to disappear again robbed the darkness to this day, housing not no water and very little game for troops of much of their efficacy. Be- only scattered remnants of the orig- the last 130 miles. Travelers often fore long, after numerous incidents inal dwellings but echoes of voices arrived in Denver with horrifying that only grew more violent with once raised, perhaps, in song and tales of great suffering and death each telling, did it become clear that celebration for the springs of sweet from no food or water. Before long, this was a war that would continue water delivered in the midst of a the trail was renamed “Starvation until either one or both of the oppo- dry and aging earth. kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 35 LILLIAN CLINE SAPP

A PIONEER OF A DIFFERENT SORT

here are innumerable certainly didn’t get the paycheck, ei- kett became names that people actu- thoughts and theories about ther. ally recognized. Tthe impact settling the West In the late 19th century as By 1920, women were com- had on society at large, but one of Wild West shows began to devel- peting as relay racers, rough stock the areas discussed less than others op in scope and popularity, women riders and trick riders, and by 1928, relates to its impact on the role of were brought into the arena, but, one third of all rodeos had women women. As most people know, “life once there, they were unfortunately competitors. on the frontier” was not exactly a relegated to mounted pistol shoot- Then, in 1929, women’s par- cake walk. It was difficult, and it ers and trick riders. In 1885, when ticipation was virtually ended after was dangerous. Assuming standard Buffalo Bill hired Annie Oakley for the death of bronc rider Bonnie etiquette and societal rules were be- his show, the public began to have a McCarroll. She was participating ing followed, frequently there were face they could associate with female in the Pendleton Round-up when jobs that required the help of more wild west performers. In 1894, she her horse threw her and she was people than there were people who took the role one step further when dragged around the arena by her were present to help. As a result, she created the iconic image of the foot, caught in the stirrup. those who would never be granted “cowgirl” when she appeared in a equality to any reasonable degree in film by Thomas Alva Edison. other situations soon became equal In 1903, women began to com- with as equal as anyone else, simply pete in Cheyenne Frontier Days, On May 5, 1897, a precocious little by virtue of where they happened although their numbers weren’t ex- baby was born on the Cline family to be at the time. Women were no actly overwhelming. But 15 years ranch outside Haswell, Colorado. exception. later, in 1918, when the first in- Her parents named her Lillian, and, In the case of ranching and door rodeo was held in Fort Worth, according to some, the name ended working cattle, “cowboying” was women took an unprecedented step up being the only “feminine” thing typically viewed as a man’s occu- toward full participation in rodeo about her. Lillian grew up on the pation, but, in reality, many women events, including “bronc busting” prairie, learning to cope with the learned to “rope and ride” and all and “bucking horse riding”. Com- winters and work associated with other aspects of ranch life. They petitors Prairie Rose Henderson, ranch life. just didn’t get the credit. And they Mabel Strickland and Bertha Blan- In 1911, at the age of 14, Lil-

36 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com Lillian and Ray competed on the circuit for the next 9 years. Then, in 1932, three years after the death of Bonnie McCarroll, Lillian hung up her stirrups. It wasn’t the being thrown or the travel that drove her from the ring; it was the size of the purses. It was the Depression; times were rougher than rough. And the prize money gotten from competing in Colorado, Kansas and Oklahoma just wasn’t enough to cover all the expenses involved. Later, she was asked if she en- joyed riding the circuit. True to lian took her first step off the trail who she was, Lillian answered, “I followed by every other girl her age. liked the purses I got out of it.” She and her sister had been enlisted And that was her only comment. to help with a cattle drive. Having Ray retired, as well, and he and hated the cold basically since birth, Lillian bought a business in Eads Lillian robbed the bunk of one of where she cooked for large groups the hired hands and put on his pants, of people. When Ray died in 1950, his sweater and his coat. She report- Lillian sold the business and moved edly said she put on the clothes be- to the Cage Ranch, north of Has- cause she’d been thrown by a horse well. When the operation changed, so many times for her skirt getting she quit and moved to Hugo where caught on fences, she was afraid she worked as a cook in the Lincoln she’d never grow any taller. County Hospital kitchen. If that wasn’t an indication of After she retired from the hos- what was to come, it is hard to say pital, Lillian stayed on in Hugo. She what was. died there in 1979. In 1922, Lillian married Ray When accounts of cattle ranch- Sapp, and a year later they began ing around Haswell in the early the professional rodeo circuit. Ray, years began to surface, people were who had more experience than tal- surprised to see frequent mention ent, competed in bronc busting, bull of Dave B. Cline, Lillian’s father, riding and roping and bulldogging and Lillian for their effectiveness in steers. Lillian entered the arena a handling large groups of cattle. worn “masculine habiliments” for year later, competing in only one Historical Footnote: Marie Su- twenty years and wished to be protected event. Bronc riding. sie” lobbied the Board of Aldermen for against arrest for doing so. (Police then It seemed those years wearing the right to wear pants in Gold Rush- would routinely harass anyone dressing skirts paid off, after all. era San Francisco, saying that she had “differently.”)

kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 37 A JOURNEY OF STONES By Priscilla Waggoner

ne of the multitude of trea- em for a Nun. a 225 mile tour of the cemeteries sures to be found in residing “The past isn’t dead,” he wrote. throughout Southeastern Colorado. Oamong these Canyonlands “It isn’t even past.” In typical J. C. Campbell fashion, the and High Plains of Southeastern Of course, there are people who tour document includes notes (that Colorado is our proximity to histo- find no interest in looking back, per- are both exhaustive and extraordi- ry. The names of those people and haps out of the belief that it holds nary), personal observations and events that form the tapestry of the no relevance to today. Yet there are recommended side trips for those past can and will be found in the lan- others who seem to have an instinc- wishing to explore the cemeter- guage of scholars and on the pages tual understanding of the connec- ies located in Fowler, Manzanola, of history books that students read tion between then and now and rec- Rocky Ford, Fairview and Calvary in school. But, unlike other more ognize that the time that has passed in La Junta, Las Animas Cemetery populated parts of the country is actually a journey we travel. in Bent County, Fort Lyons National where the past is visible only on a Where we will be in a hundred years Cemetery, Riverside and Fairmount guided tour during certain hours of is as directly connected to where we in Prowers County, Camp Amache, the day or from a distance protect- are today as where we are today is Holly and Chivington Cemetery in ed by a rope wrapped in velvet and connected to where we were a hun- Kiowa. strung across a doorway, reminders dred years ago. And for those who However, his introductory com- of the past of Southeastern Colora- are interested in that journey into ment sets the stage and provides do can still be seen in a distant field the past, one of the best places to the reason for such an unusual but while simply driving down a lone start is where the journey ended for insightful journey. “Cemeteries are highway or heard as mentioned in those who preceded us. books, and stones are clues,” he writes. the course of a daily conversation. Roughly ten years ago, pub- “To understand a community, visit In this corner of the state, the fabric lished author, Sand Creek inter- the local graveyards, be they boot hill, of life is much as William Faulkner preter and recognized historian Jeff potter’s field, memorial parks or are in once described it in his novel Requi- Campbell was contracted to design churchyards. They open doors to culture,

38 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com families, ethnicity, mothers, fathers, sons they died. and daughters. They tell you about stur- But, sometimes, the name is diness and patriotism, the dreams, hap- recognized for its connection not piness, pride and sense of worth. You just to those who lived—and are can tell a lot about the society in how buried--nearby but to others who well cemeteries are maintained.” have lived since. These are names of One can’t go to a cemetery and men and women whose lives, deeds stand in the midst of a collection and determinations—more than a of headstones without being aware, hundred and fifty years ago—have at least at some level, that each en- a direct bearing on the life of the graved name represents a life that person looking at their headstone at was lived. that very moment. Sometimes, the name is no more Two such names are Bent and than that: a name. The person who Prowers. was given that name, who answered The stucco walls that flank ei- to it when they were called or signed ther side of the road leading into it on some paper as their own is sim- the Las Animas Cemetery in Bent ply a shadow on a wall, a silhou- County seem out of place, in a way, ette on a hill, an unknown someone in a land whose people are somewhat about whom nothing is known other reluctant to embrace the traditional than they were born, they lived, and trappings that suggest great wealth and power. After all, this was the great frontier. Any wealth or power that was amassed was often devot- ed to surviving events that could be unexpectedly harsh and unforgiv- ing. Yet, at the same time, the skill that went into the stucco structures is also suggestive of the respect due to those who rest within. For many of those who sleep beneath the green grass shaded by tall and sturdy trees spent their lives—and, sometimes, gave their lives—paving the way for those who followed. As Campbell describes it, “A pretty setting above the valley floor looks to the valley of the north. Graves are mixed old and new, but primarily the further east you walk through the cemetery the older the markers are. Near the last section of the cemetery on the east side there is a row of predominantly late 19th century graves.” This area is where the grave of William Wells Bent, along with his daughter, Mary, can be found. Per- haps in testimony to the life he lived, his monument stands well above others nearby, clearly visible from a distance. But, up close, it is austere and lacking any great amount of or- namentation. At its base, the name BENT is carved into the granite in simple, block letters. On the top, kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | FAIR GUIDE | 39 verely impacted his family, including the lives of his sons, and ultimately led to the defeat of the Indian na- tions. In 1867, Bent married his fourth wife, Adeline. Just two years lat- er, he died of pneumonia and was buried on his ranch. Sometime lat- er, his body was moved to the Las Animas cemetery near the grave of his daughter, Mary Bent Moore. His monument also bears the name of Owl Woman, although there is no grave. Not far away, the Prowers mon- ument, likewise, stands above the rest. John Wesley Prowers, also of Missouri, was born in 1839 near Westport in Jackson County, Mis- what appears to be an urn. er sisters, shortly after her death. souri. Raised with very little formal As many know, William Wells He and Yellow Woman had one son, education and a difficult relationship Bent was one of eleven children out Charley. Yellow Woman eventually with his stepfather, Prowers crossed of Missouri. Born in 1809, he was returned to her tribe, and Island be- the plains in 1857, ultimately ending 15 when he accompanied his older came mother of all four children. up in employment at Bent’s Fort. brother to the territory, working s Bent lived his life essentially There, he met William Bent and a trader. In 1829, he began trapping with a foot in two worlds. Three of worked for him until 1862. and, after saving the lives of two his wives were Cheyenne, and all of These were significant years for Cheyenne, developed a relationship his children were half Cheyenne. Prowers. In 1861, he brought a herd with the tribe. In 1831, he, along As more people came to the area, he of 600 head of cattle to the region, with his brother and several South- advocated for and attempted to ne- the first herd ever brought from the ern Cheyenne Indians, agreed to es- gotiate on behalf of the tribes, but East. That move led to him ulti- tablish a trading site at what became a constellation of factors made his mately becoming a cattle baron and known as Bent’s Fort. He married efforts at peace unsuccessful. reportedly responsible for rough- a Cheyenne woman named Mis- The horrific massacre at Sand Creek ly 400,000 acres of land and some stan-sta, or Owl Woman, daughter in 1864 set events in motion that se- 70,000 cattle. He also contracted to of White Thunder and Tail Wom- an. Owl Woman had a number of responsibilities at the fort, not the least of which was acting as a li- aison between the Indians and the Anglos. She was known to prefer the outdoors and frequently slept outside the fort walls with members of her tribe. Together, William and Owl Woman had four children—Mary, Robert, George and Julia. Shortly after Julia was born, Owl Woman died. Instead of being buried, her body was put on a scaffold so that she could quickly return to the earth. This was the Cheyenne way. In keeping with Cheyenne tradi- tion, William took in Yellow Wom- an and Island, Owl Woman’s young-

40 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com furnish the government with large County. rest of her life. amounts of hay. Of a more lasting nature, Prowers was known for sub- In that same year of 1861, Amache also served a vital role in stantial contributions to Southeast- Prowers courted and married a bridging the cultural gaps between ern Colorado. However, Amache has 15 year old Southern Cheyenne the native tribes and the Anglos, the enduring reputation and place in girl named Amache whose father, Europeans, Mexicans who were history. In 2018, she was inducted Ochinee (Lone Bear, also called One all converging on the region at the into the Colorado Women Hall of Eye), was a Peace Chief. Ten chil- time. This is especially extraor- Fame, largely for her role as an ad- dren were born to this marriage, dinary, given that her father was vocate and social activist. She passed nine of whom made it to adult- among those murdered at Sand away in 1898 at the age of 51. hood. All of the children—boys and Creek. His death caused a bitterness These were extraordinary peo- girls—attended college and were and anger that never left her. It’s ple whose actions extended long raised in both Anglo and Cheyenne been widely reported that, several past the time they walked this earth. ways. years after the massacre, she was at And these are only a few of the sto- In February of 1884, Prowers a public meeting where someone at- ries of the people of the time. As died in Kansas City at the age of 45. tempted to introduce her to Colonel Campbell puts it, “In the first half His cause of death is not known. Chivington. Refusing to shake his of the 1800s Baptiste Charboneau, Amache, who lived another 14 hand, she stared him straight in the son of Sacajawea, the Bent broth- years, has frequently been referred eye, said, “Of course I know Chiv- ers, John Charles Fremont, Tom to as Prowers’ “business partner ington. He was my father’s mur- Fitzpatrick, a young J. E. B. Stuart, and soulmate” for, side by side with derer.” She also kept a teepee near Kit Carson and scores of other ad- her husband, she co-owned and op- her house in Boggsville where she venturers and explorers put tracks erated the family’s extensive cattle sought respite from the tumultuous on the ground of the Arkansas Val- operation, mercantile business, and changes brought by the American ley. In the second half, generals like hospitality service from their 24- conquest of Indian land and peoples Sherman and Sheridan, the Grand room adobe home that still stands in Colorado. Despite such painful in- Duke of Russia, the Earp brothers, as one of two original buildings at justice, Amache continued to work Bat Masterson and Doc Holliday the Boggsville Historic Site in Bent to bridge cultural differences for the criss-crossed the region. In the 20th kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 41 century emigrants from around the that live on for centuries or more, distance between us is not so great. world, capitalists, and dreamers these people were still people with One need only to be quiet and rounded out the tale of this coun- their own joys and sorrows and listen to the wind or watch a bird in try.” dreams. And perhaps in the stillness flight to remember that we are each Yet, behind the stories of brav- of the cemetery where all have re- just one footprint on the sand. We ery and persistence and the names turned to from where they came, the are each one footstep going forward.

The Artist: Sherri Mabe Images www.sherrimabeimages.com Colorado native Loves the land And photographing the history of.

42 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER FOR “THE LIFE OF A COUNTY SHERIFF”

native of Southeastern Colorado, Ty Lin Wil- as a gift. She also has other photographers who inspire liams has been “taking photos forever”. But in her, and she finds their work very instructive. A 2010, it became her business. Her expertise and Ty Lin’s love of photography is probably the one skill are the result of trial and error and Google (thank aspect most responsible for her success. She truly en- goodness for Google) and what can only be described joys capturing a single, special, fleeting moment with a simple click of her camera while knowing that no two photos can be the same. But her real strength is in not just identifying but seeing the beauty around her. Even when the beauty is not immediately apparent, Ty Lin has the gift of finding it, drawing it out and then capturing an image, whether it’s in the people or the scenery or a night sky filled with lightning. That genuine joy she finds in life and living emanates from her as she works, and the result are pho- tos where people look and feel as natural as if they’re speaking to a best friend. Ty Lin sells some of her photography on line and shoots portraits on an appointment basis. She can be reached via Facebook at Authenticity Photos by Ty or by calling 719-940-2184.

kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 43 414,000 ACRES OF HIDDEN TREASURE

By Priscilla Waggoner

person can stand in any che National Grasslands is one of the elevation in the far southeastern one of a number of places the most extraordinary hidden trea- corner (near the Oklahoma border) A in the Comanche National sures in Southeastern Colorado. is 3900 feet compared to the north- Grasslands and, if he can muster Comprised of 443,765 acres, western corner where the elevation just the slightest bit of imagination, the Comanche National Grasslands is 6200 feet. That not only provides the scenery will look remarkably operate under the supervision and scenic diversity, it opens the door to similar to what a person standing management of the USDA Forest a range of recreational activities. It in that same spot would have seen Service. The land consists of a mix- also provides habitat for an extraor- 100 years ago. Steep canyon walls ture of both private and public land, dinary number of different species that open up to wide open spaces the totality of which is divided into of animals. supporting a variety of plant life. A two units, each with their own rang- But the most intriguing aspect variety of wildlife including prong- er. of these grasslands is evidence of horn, mule deer, elk, swift fox, wild The Timpas Unit is located near those who have lived (and walked) turkeys, prairie dogs and 328 species La Junta, placing it closer to the these lands. The oldest inhabitants, of birds. more populated sites of Pueblo and hands down (if they had hands, of Unlike trails in other parts of Trinidad along I-25. course, which they didn’t), were the the state that are becomingly in- To the east, the Carrizo Unit dinosaurs who trudged their way creasingly crowded with visitors is in a less populated region of the through the muddy shore of a large and camping areas with campsites state with Springfield, a town with a river roughly 150 million years ago. almost overlapping, the Comanche population of less than 1400, being Incredible as it seems, those same National Grasslands offer a sense of the only town nearby. tracks are visible today, and it’s one isolation while “the grid” feels far, The topography in both areas the longest continuous string of di- far away. vary widely from steep canyons and nosaur tracks in the world. Such a scene is remarkable. a sparse scattering of trees to roll- There are also petroglyphs— Grounding. Comforting, in a way. ing plains covered with sage, cactus more commonly known as “rock And the experience of the Coman- and yucca. In Carrizo, for example, art”, carved drawings reflecting the

44 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com day to day life of the American Indi- ans of the area, ranging from those tribes who lived there 8,000 years ago to those who hunted the area as recently as several hundred years. Rock art is visible in both grassland areas and the face of canyon walls. Given proximity to the Santa Fe Trail, from 1820 onward, there is evidence of the wagon trains that traveled through the land from “Old Mexico” to markets and settlements further north. In 1871, the first group of non-Indian families—11 families from “New” Mexico, set- tled along the Purgatoire River in what is now known as Picket Wire Canyon. Evidence in the form of phone service, so visitors should have water for visitors to drink. the ruins of other old homesteads bring with them the tools necessary The rest of it is simply a mat- can be found, including the Dolores to help themselves should an inci- ter of common sense. Comfort- Mission with its small cemetery and dent occur. For example, sometimes able shoes are a must. A variety of a scattering of headstones that still the weather will change suddenly, clothing—a must in the event the exist along with the Rourke Ranch, bringing torrential rains that can weather goes rogue. A first aid kit is a fully functioning ranch started I flood the trails. For those who are not a bad idea, given that there are 1871 and was fully functioning until driving, it’s important to remember different things that crawl and slith- its sale in 1991. these are dirt roads, so water or flat er and fly and bite. After all, this is While there are any number tires or other similar un-fun issues an undeveloped area, so err on the of different driving tours and sce- can arise without much notice. In side of caution” is pretty much the nic hikes—both short distances and the Carrizo area, given the distance rule for the day. those that are longer and more ex- between that unit and Springfield, it Hopefully, these cautionary tid- treme—the same basic rules of safe- is wise to fill your car with gas be- bits of advice do not scare anyone ty apply. fore heading Grassland way. This is away from going to the area. The First, this is rugged and isolat- also arid, hot country in the summer, main point is to plan ahead and re- ed land. There is little, if any, cell so water is a must since not all areas alize that going into wildland can,

kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 45 and Hispanic Cemetery. This is the only driving access into Pick- et Wire Canyon and the guide provides great interpretation on the stops. • Hiking/Horseback Riding/ Mountain Biking – Highlights include the dinosaur tracksite, Hispanic Cemetery, wildlife view- ing, part of Colorado Birding Trails. Start the hike at Withers Canyon Trailhead for the Picket Wire Trail (10.6 miles round trip to dinosaur tracksite) or Withers Loop Trail (1 mile flat hike to the canyon rim). • Picture Canyon, Comanche NG, south of Springfield • Arch Rock trail – Wildlife view- not often but sometimes, get a little wildlife viewing, hiking. ing, historic homestead, part of wild. Carrizo Canyon, Comanche NG, Colorado Birding Trails. One last point: this is treasured southwest of Springfield- High- • Homestead Trail – starts off land with ruins and rock art and lights include rock art, wildlife Arch Rock Trail and cross Holt fragile habitats. Please be respect- viewing, hiking. Canyon ful in your treatment of the land. Carrizo Auto Tour Pullout, In- • Outlaw Trail – starts of Home- Don’t take whatever items out of tersection of Highways 109/160. stead Trail and continues to Sand some desire for sourvenirs. Like- Not necessarily a destination but the Canyon wise, don’t leave trash out of some information kiosk there has great desire to be…lazy. information about the Dust Bowl, With that said, what follows is Fire Ecology, Ranching, Paleontolo- a little bit of information about po- gy/Sharks Teeth and more. A good tential tours you can take, starting stop if visiting our southern unit with half day to full day excursions: between Kim and Springfield. Vogel Canyon State Historic District, Comanche NG, south of Full day trips include: La Junta - Highlights include rock • Picket Wire Canyonlands, Co- art, historic homestead, historic manche NG, south of La Junta trail, wildlife viewing, hiking. • Picket Wire Canyonlands Guided Picture Canyon, Comanche NG, Auto Tour - Highlights include south of Springfield - Highlights the dinosaur tracksite, Rourke include rock art, historic homestead, Ranch National Historic District,

46 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com A HUNDRED (PLUS) YEARS OF HANAGANS

By Priscilla Waggoner

n 1871, a “merchandiser”, farmer, businessman soon owned a thousand It was the perfect situation: a entrepreneur and businessman acres of irrigated land and, within good, hard-working and ambitious Imoved from Bardolph, Illinois to barely more than a year, developed farmer with good, irrigated farm- Bent County, Colorado. The region the watermelon and cantaloupe in- land to work. One season followed was still largely unpopulated. Terri- dustry. He planted alfalfa. In 1879, another; one year followed another, torial Bent County had been formed he introduced honey bees. He then and, before long, Hanagan Farms just a year before and, despite en- invented the cantaloupe crate, which was packing and shipping melons to compassing much of Southeastern replaced the barrels formerly used a variety of destinations throughout Colorado, only had a population of for shipping all varieties of fruit. He the country, all from their packing 572 people. also began the Arkansas Valley Fair. sheds located in the Arkansas Valley However, the area was growing Phew. This man, this flurry of of Colorado. as more and more people headed this commercial and agricultural activi- Now, more than a century lat- way after the end of the Civil War. ty, was named George Swink. And er, Hanagan Farms, still operating This entrepreneur knew opportuni- Mr. Swink decided to take his show on the original property, is going ty when he saw it and promptly es- on the road when he set up and di- stronger than ever as the current tablished a retail store and a cattle rected Colorado’s agricultural and generation of Hanagan farmers car- business. It was apparent to him that horticultural display at the World’s ry on in their great-great grandfa- the Arkansas Valley had great pos- Fair in Saint Louis, Missouri. The ther’s footsteps. sibilities--that is, if water from the year was 1904. Anyone who goes to the Hana- river could be diverted to the fertile Roughly 125 miles away, a man gan Farm website will see the fields just waiting for the plow. In named Christopher Hanagan lived phrase “Know your farmer, know 1873, just 2 years after relocating with his family in Enfield, Illinois. your food”. While that may be a slo- to Bent County, he built the Rocky It’s not known if Mr. Hanagan went gan to some farms and the farmers Ford Ditch. He then helped develop to the World’s Fair that year. It’s not who work them, it is much more the Catlin and Highland Canals. As known if he saw the Colorado agri- than a slogan to this family. was stated at the time, it was “the cultural and horticultural display or The farm is run by two broth- first community irrigation system if he spoke with Mr. Swink. ers, Chuck and Eric, fifth genera- in the valley, forever transforming What is known is that a year tion Hanagans on the property and Rocky Ford into a top crop-produc- later, in 1905, Christopher Hana- men who embody what “non-farm” ing landscape.” gan moved his family to the town people hope the country’s farmers In 1876, he moved his entire of Swink in Southeastern Colorado would be. stock of goods from his store to where, north of town, he bought They’re sunburned. Robust. Rocky Ford. Through means in- a quarter section—or 160 acres— Welcoming. Quick to smile and an- volving homestead, pre-emption and began raising hay, corn and, of swer any question that’s asked, no and outright purchase, this Illinois course, melons. matter what the question may be. kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 47 Both of the brothers’ families live on erty and the different eras the farm is at the core of who the Hanagans the farm, growing an extraordinary has known. A solid, unpretentious, are, their identity, their heritage, harvest of various vegetables and, lovely house lends itself to images who they were, who they are, who of course, world class melons. Both of generations coming in from the they will be. of the families work together, adults fields. Doors to a large outbuilding, And, like all good relationships, and children, side by side, making it standing wide open in the noon- this one has its give and take and a true family operation. And, in so day sun, reveal a well arranged and a fundamental understanding that doing, they’re not just growing this well used space where supplies are for the family to prosper, the land year’s harvest, they’re also growing stored. must be cared for and provided what the next generation of farmers to But no more than a few dozen it needs to flourish, not just in the keep the Hanagan name—the Hana- yards beyond the house, the Hana- short run but for, hopefully, another gan farm—viable and prosperous gan fields are laid out, and their century or more. well into the future. proximity to the house might sug- The Hanagans are not just mas- The farm is simply beautiful gest a truth that resides at the Hana- ter farmers, they’re also master mar- but not in a showcase, postcard way. gan core. These farmers have a long keters as proven by Eric’s discussion This is a working farm, and has standing and intimate relationship of their promotions and programs. been, continuously, for 113 years. with the land. The farm is not just First, they offer memberships in An antique tractor in the yard pro- what the families “do”. It’s not just CSA—Community Supported Ag- vides a sense of history to the prop- where the families live. This farm riculture—which gives the public

48 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com er farmers who are interested in Eric says, concluding the tour. “We opening their farms to the public. face some of those same problems, As an example of what agritourism too, plus new ones they didn’t have involves, Eric took the group out to deal with. We’ve had to learn to to the field where he showed them do things our father didn’t do. It the drip-tape system and talked hasn’t always been easy to adapt, but about the cost, timing and process it’s been worth it because our goal of growing vegetables. One fact is pretty simple. We need to make he shared took the entire group by sure the sixth generation of Hana- surprise. “How much do you think a gans will have their chance to run pound of high quality tomato seeds the family farm.” cost?” he asked. After fielding guess- In 2006, Hanagan Farms was es from $500 to $1,000, he paused designated as a Centennial Farm and and said, “One pound costs $53,000 the proud recipient of the Historic and contains about 144,000 seeds.” Structures Award, an honor bestowed He didn’t have to add “do the math”. by the State Historical Fund to farms The group was already doing it. and ranches who have been in contin- “Our father and grandfather uous operation for more than 100 years were very good farmers who had and have successfully preserved historic problems they had to deal with,” structures on their farms and ranches.

the opportunity to buy a share of the farm, thereby assuming the risk but also enjoying the bounty of a lo- cal farm. Depending upon the price of the share, shareholders can pick either a half bushel or a bushel of vegetables every week for 14 weeks from July to October. They’re also invited to attend the crop blessing in June, receive a monthly newsletter, can take tours and bring their kids for free to the pumpkin patch. They have sections of the farm designated for the public to “pick your own” vegetables, a trend that increases when the economy is hurt- ing and decreases when people have the income to just buy produce at one of their local farm markets. In response to 70% of the “pick your own” customers paying with food stamps, Hanagan Farms also applied for and received a grant from Live Well Colorado, a program where people can purchase in bulk twice as much produce as their food stamps would normally allow them to purchase. It’s clear they have a strong commitment to community. “When ag does well, the economy does well,” Eric states. They’re also strong advocates of agritourism and mentor oth- kiowacountyindependent.com July 2018 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | 49 ADVERTISER DIRECTORY

EVENTS SERVICES Kiowa County Fair & Rodeo ES Tech Holly Gateway Concert & Street Dance Cobblestone Inn & Suites Holly Gateway Classic Car Show Kiowa County Economic Development Ark Valley Fair & Rodeo Foundation Maine Street Bash Touching Hearts at Home Sand & Sage Fair & Rodeo Brown Funeral Directors Parmalee Concert AuthenticiTY Photography

FOOD & DRINK FARM/REPAIR/BUILDING Hannagan Farms Red Water Oilfield Services Mission Villanueva Big R Crow’ Stop & Shop Grocery Saffer Spray Service J & J Liquor Eads Consumer Supply Cookie Cutters N Cakes Performance Automotive Hometown Gas & Grill Ordway Building Supply

HEALTH PERSONAL & HOUSEHOLD Kiowa Healthmart J & S Graphic Design Kiowa County Hospital District Mr. D’s Health Essentials Pampered Chef Plunder Design Jewelry FINANCIAL SERVICES Small Business Development Southeast Colorado Enterprise Development McClave State Bank GN Bank in Eads Hoffman Insurance Eastern Colorado Bank Lloyd Brown Insurance

50 | HIGH PLAINS GUIDE | July 2018 kiowacountyindependent.com

PRSRT ST U.S. POSTAGE LOCAL PAID POSTAL Eads, CO PATRON Permit No. 18