Revolving Windsor Chair

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Revolving Windsor Chair 16 Revolving Windsor Chair A few years ago it fell to me to write a story about Thomas Jefferson in a chess match with his slave Jupiter. This venture led to a play on the same subject, as well as research into the physical objects used as metaphorical vehicles for the ideas. In this regard, Jefferson makes it easy for us. One of the more obvious physical items is the revolving Windsor chair used by Jefferson when he was working to draft the Declaration of Independence in 1776. Having seen a picture of the chair in its surviving form and an- other picture of a re-creation of it, I undertook to make a similar one to use on stage. My version differs from the original in the use of a steam-bent arm rail rather than a sawn and carved one, because I could make a bent arm faster than a sawn one. Making this swivel Windsor is in some ways easier than making a normal one, in that the seat is circular rather than a sculpted outline. There are a lot of parts and processes to a Windsor chair, but with the exception of hollowing the seat, you have already seen how to do them all. Windsor chairs, as the name suggests, are of English design. Windsor chair-making in England centered around the town of High Wycombe, but the chairmaking did not begin in town. Out in the woods, workers called chair bodgers felled, split, and turned the beech legs on their springpole lathes, then sold these legs to chairmakers in town. There, craftsmen would join the legs and spindles to the carved seat planks to make completed chairs. Begin this chair as the bodgers would, splitting the wood, roughing it down, and turning it on the lathe. This is not just a random sequence. By Opposite. making the legs first, you ensure that they are completely dry and that Adapted from the chair Thomas Jefferson they will not shrink and come loose from the seat. You can use hickory, used while composing the Declaration of beech, birch, ash, maple, or white oak for the legs and spindles, but Independence, this Windsor chair swivels hickory is the wood of choice for me. If you work from green, wet wood, on rollers inset between the two seat boards. don't hesitate to turn it to a rough, oversized cylinder while it is still fresh. REVOLVING WINDSOR CHAIR I 137 Let it dry about a month, however, before you do the final turning. Work- Begin by turning the spindles so that they ing overly green wood in the lathe will result in a rough surface, and the will be thoroughly dry (and fully shrunk) by piece may shrink excessively, giving you an ovoid cross section. the time y ou join them to the rest of the The arm rail on this version of the chair is also split, not just because it chair. is faster to split a piece but also because the grain must be absolutely con- tinuous for the Vs-by-Vi-inch arm to bend evenly and retain sufficient strength. Shave it down on the shaving horse and reject it if the shaving reveals any knots or excessive waves in the grain. Because this piece must bend in the same plane as its thicker dimension, it will have a tendency to flop over and take the path of least resistance when you bend it. To pre- vent this you can either make it 7/s inch square and then shave it down af- ter bending or make a bending jig with a groove around its perimeter to hold it in the proper plane. In either case, steam the strip for about an hour and bend it around a mandrel 22 inches in diameter. Leave the ends sticking out straight and let it set up for a few days. Both the heat and the moisture make the wood easy to bend, so it must be reasonably dry in or- der to hold the shape. When it dries, give it a final planing for smoothness and glue on extra pieces of oak for the hands. Once the extra pieces have dried, cut them to their final shape with a coping saw. REVOLVING WINDSOR CHAIR 139 The arm rail may be steam-bent around a mold as seen here. The slot in the perimeter of the mold keeps the rectangular oak rail from flopping over as you bend it. If you have access to hickory trees, an easier way to make the rail is to split and shave a three- quarter-inch-diameter length of hickory, then bend it cold. Even with the added thick- ness, it is easier to bend a uniformly round stick (and then shave it down) than to bend a rectangular piece in the same plane as its thicker dimension. Much of the comfort of the Windsor chair is in the springiness of the hickory back spindles. Like the legs, the spindles must be split to shape and then shaved, or turned on the lathe, to their final shape, as you prefer. If you are making shaved spindles, you will need to make a gauge (a board with holes in it) to fit to the diameter at four critical points. These four points are: (1) the base where the spindle fits into the seat, (2) the largest diameter of the spindle, (3) the diameter at the intersection with the arm rail, and (4) the diameter of the top end that fits into the crest. Thus, make your four-holed spindle gauge using the three augers that you will use to bore the holes in the seat, the arm rail, and the crest, plus a 3A-inch auger for the largest diameter. Rough out the spindles with a drawknife and let them dry lor a few days before you bring them down the rest of the way with a spokeshave. The final fit for the top and bottom of each spindle should be pretty snug, so just the very ends should fit in the holes in the gauge. What really makes a Windsor a Windsor is the sculpted plank seat that takes the legs and spindles like an archery target. Because this is a revolv- ing chair, there are two seats, each a bevel-edged disc 13A inches thick. Traditional English Windsors use a single plank of unsplittable elm for seats. I used yellow pine that I joined up with dowels and glue to the nec- essary width. Lay out the discs with a compass, both to their larger diam- 140 I REVOLVING WINDSOR CHAIR After the arm rail dries for four or five days, it will hold the bend and may be shaved to the final dimension. Glue blocks on the ends to add the extra width for the hands, and cut them to shape with a coping saw. eters, and then to their smaller diameters by subtracting an inch from the radius. Saw out the disc and then trim down all the way around to the smaller diameter with a hatchet, bringing it all smooth with a spokeshave. Framing up a chair was a separate specialty task among the English workers, and you could recognize a framer by his socketed breast bib, which acted as a pad for his brace and bit. Because boring the holes to frame up the chair could make or break the work of the previous crafts- men, the framer's bib was a respected badge of office. Again, the round seat of the swivel chair makes the task somewhat simpler, if more re- stricted. The outward splay of the legs, which lowers the center of gravity and resists racking, must, on this chair, be even all the way around, rather than sticking out more on the back legs, because this chair has no back legs as such. The splay for all four legs may be guided by your bevel, set to cross the square at f and 4 inches. A Windsor gains further strength in the legs by using a tapered hole for the similarly tapered legs. Whereas a hole and shaft joint with parallel REVOLVING WINDSOR CHAIR 141 The four holes in the spindle gauge give the diameters of the base, the thickest point, and the intersections with the arm mil and the crest rail. With it y ou can quickly shave the spindles to their proper size. Lay out the seat planks in two concentric circles, ana chop and shave them down to create (he bevels. 142 REVOLVING WINDSOR CHAIR sides becomes loose if the leg shrinks, the tapered hole and matching Use the bevel to guide the auger as you tenon are always being forced tighter as soon as you sit down. The taper bore the initial inch-diameter holes for the on the leg is shaped when you turn it on the lathe, but the hole must be legs. If you have a tapered reamer, making shaped with a tapered reamer. Such reamers were commonly used to bore these holes conical (with the legs turned to tapered holes in wooden casks and are generally available as antiques. You match) will create a joint that works tighter can also make a reamer of any size by turning a tapered shaft of hardwood as you sit on the chair. and inserting a scraper made from a hacksaw blade radially into one side. When all four legs are in place and the splay is even and sufficient all the way around, tap the legs almost all the way into place so you can bore the holes to insert the stretchers.
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