CENTRAL SCOTLAND 191 St Andrews © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Glenshee Stirling Pitlochry Ben Lawers AREA : 9254 SQ KM 9254 SQ KM : AREA
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© Lonely Planet Publications 191 Central Scotland The country’s historical roots are deeply embedded in the sandy soils of Central Scotland. Significant ruins and castles that chronicle the region’s charismatic history pepper the land- scape. Key battlegrounds shaped the country’s fortunes around Stirling, and Perth is the former capital where kings were crowned on the Stone of Destiny. Arriving from the cities of Glasgow and Edinburgh, visitors begin to get a sense of the country further north as the lowland belt gives way to Highland splendour. It is here that the majesty of Scotland’s landscape unfolds in deep, dark steely blue lochs that hold the shimmering silhouettes of soaring, sentinel-like craggy peaks on a still day. This part of Scotland is big-tree country, with pockets of ancient woodlands thriving side by side with regrowth forests, some planted by visionary landowners 300 years ago. Oppor- tunities to enjoy the landscape abound and walking, cycling, mountaineering and wildlife safaris are all easy possibilities. Capping off the exhaustingly fresh outdoors are some of the country’s best pubs and eateries, which greet weary visitors at the end of the day. It’s also the variety in the region that pulls the punters – learn all about crannogs, have a drink in an ancient pub that holds scrawlings from Robert Burns, throw a line into a picture- perfect loch and explore one of the country’s most stunning wooded glens all in a day. The coastline along the ‘kingdom’ of Fife offers quaint fishing villages along East Neuk and one of Scotland’s most enjoyable towns – St Andrews. The township, touched with a gentle dignity, has a medieval shell that belies the sophistication and dynamism of a student population drawn from around the globe. CENTRAL SCOTLAND HIGHLIGHTS Walking the eerie fields of Bannockburn and rambling through the imperious castle lording it over the city in Stirling ( p193 ) Glenshee Mixing history, nostalgia and, of course, golf on the hallowed fairways of St Andrews Old Pitlochry Course ( p211 ) Ben Lawers Bagging magnificent Ben Lawers ( p224 ), and keeping an eye out for Neolithic rock art St Andrews on the way Whizzing down the slopes of Glenshee Stirling ( p230 ), one of the country’s largest ski runs Nursing a pint of Ale of Atholl and toasting the toes by a roaring log fire at the Moulin Inn ( p229 ), a pub dripping with Scottish character. POPULATION: 764,000 AREA : 9254 SQ KM 192 STIRLING REGION •• Getting Around lonelyplanet.com e y W o A86 A889 North Esk at R 0Laurencekirk 30 km er CENTRAL SCOTLAND Clova 0 20 miles B l Grampian a Edzell c Spittal of Glenshee Roy Bridge k Mountains Blair A r W Castle Ben d a Glenshee A90 Gar Vrackie le te Montrose Loch ry r Montrose (840m) Brechin Montrose Ericht sk Basin Blair Atholl th E Killiecrankie Sou Kinloch Loch A93 Lunan Tummel Pitlochry Is Lunan Wate Rannoch Tummel la Kirriemuir r Bay Rannoch Forest Blackwater Station Loch ForfarForfar Reservoir Park Alyth Letham Rannoch A Tay Loch llt Mor Blairgowrie Aberfeldy BlairgowrieMeigle Arbroath Laidon Bridge of Fortingall Arbroath Kings Balgie Dunkeld House Glen Lyon Fearnan Kenmore Coupar Angus Hotel Rd Lyon A9 A93 Carnoustie Ben aan Lawers Br Bankfoot Dundee Dundee (1214m) Loch chay A822 Newport- Lo Tay Alm Scone on-Tay y ond h New Firth A914 c L r Killin e Methven of Tay Leuchars dn Scone O A85 Tyndrum Perth Lochart St Fillans oc A85 Perth k St StAndrews Lochearnhead Loch Crieff Crieff Cupar Crianlarich Earn Newburgh Andrews Comrie h Stob Binnein Cupar c Ea Kellie o (1165m) Balquhidder rn Dunning ll Auchtermuchty Castle Loch a Auchterarder E Crail Lomond & F Loch den Ardlui Katrine Lower Largo Anstruther the Trossachs A84 Milnathort Falkland A92 Pittenweem Stronachlachar The Callander National Park Yetts A91 Earlsferry St Monans Trossachs Callander o'Muckhart LochGlenrothes Leven Isle of Cairndow T Leven n Methil Elie Ben Venue ei Kinross Leve Buckhaven May Tarbet (727m) Loch th Doune Dunblane Dollar Thornton A821 Achray Cardenden e Firth A83 Tillicoultry Or NORTH on BallingryM90 of Argyll Queen Aberfoyle Bridge Dev Kelty KirkcaldyKirkcaldy Forth SEA Forest A82 Elizabeth of Allan ClackmannanLochgelly Lochgelly Forest Park Alloa Cowdenbeath North Park Alloa Oakley Dunfermline Berwick Loch Kippen Stirling Kincardine Gullane Whitekirk ARGYLL Lomond Stirling Dunfermline Burntisland Dunbar Drymen Balfron Fintry A985 Aberdour Garelochhead M80 Culross 56°N A1 RosythInverkeithing Cockenzie Loch Killearn The Bo'ness Edinburgh e GrangemouthBo'ness yn Long Gare Campsies Denny M9 A90 and3°W Port HaddingtonT Loch A811 LinlithgowLinlithgow Seton Helensburgh BlanefieldKilsyth Falkirk Falkirk Edinburgh PrestonpansHaddington Kilmun lvin Musselburgh KilcregganAlexandria Strathblane Ke Kirkliston Lennoxtown UphallBroxburn h Lammermuir DunoonGreenock Kirknewton eit Gourock Dumbarton Kirkintilloch Livingston f L Dalkeith Bonnyrigg Hills A8 Port Dumbarton Muirhead Bathgate r o LasswadeDalkeith DunoonGreenock CaldercruixArmdale te Glasgow Glasgow Airdrie a Balerno Arniston Soutra Mains A78 Kilmacolm BishoptonGlasgow M73 A71 W Penicuik Coatbridge Airdrie M8 Whitburn Firth Wemyss Bay Bridge Coatbridge A701 A68 SkelmorlieCa of ViewparkMossend Shotts A7 of ld Birkenshaw Motherwell Rothesay er Weir UddingstonBlantyre Motherwell A702 Clyde Barrhead Blantyre Wishaw Newmains Getting Around The capital, also named Stirling, controlled For public-transport info, call Traveline the main route into the Highlands and its stra- (%0871 200 2233). Scottish Citylink (%0870 550 tegic location meant it was the stage for some 5050) connects the main towns in the area, of Scotland’s crucial battles of independence and Perth is a major hub for its services. Royal against the repressive English. The region was Mail postbuses (%01246-546329) serve many re- home to Rob Roy, and the legendary exploits mote communities, such as those in West of this champion of the poor still echo around Perthshire, charging on average £2 to £5 for the southern border of the Highlands. single journeys. The region has lured walkers and climb- The Central Scotland Rover rail ticket (£30), ers since Victorian times, and the forests valid for three days out of seven, allows train and wildlife in this unique environment are travel between Edinburgh, Glasgow, Falkirk protected as part of the Loch Lomond & the and Stirling. Trossachs National Park ( p267 ). CENTRAL SCOTLAND Getting Around STIRLING REGION For local transport information in the Stirling region, phone %01786-442707. The main Stirling is one of those regions central Scot- bus operator is First (%0870 872 7271). Its First- land specialises in. It provides a taste of both Day ticket (£5) gives one day’s travel on all lowlands and Highlands; has a staggering its services in the central Scotland region and share of landmark battlegrounds; is peppered through to Edinburgh or Glasgow. with castles and tales of legendary figures; From late May (although sometimes de- and contains a slice of natural beauty that layed until June or July) to early October the will literally leave you gasping. And all that vintage Trossachs Trundler (%01786-442707) is a packed cheek by jowl into such a small and useful bus service circling Aberfoyle, Cal- delightful area. lander and Trossachs Pier on Loch Katrine. .