Kayak Excursion Report
ANTARCTIC EXPLORER Discovering the 7th Continent
m/v Ocean Diamond th th 7 to 16 January, 2016
Paddle # 1 Location: Mikkelsen Harbour, D’Hainaut Island, Antarctica Kayak Guide: Ryan Munro, Scott Caspell Safety Zodiac Driver: Todd Weisbrot Date: 10th January 2016 Time: 930hrs – 1130hrs Paddlers: Kylie, Mark, Karen Todd, Sarah, Kyle, Justin, Jim, Karen Kocher, Fritz, Kazuo, Sarah, Beth, Kate, Peter, John, Diane Weather: sun and cloud, warm temperature, flat calm Species sighted from the kayaks: Elephant seal, Giant petrel, Gentoo penguin, Skua, Wilson’s storm petrel, Kelp gull
Comment: We could not have asked for a better day to go for our very first ever sea kayak excursion in Antarctica. Our location was along the south end of Trinity Island in Mikkelsen Harbour near D’Hainaut Island. We loaded into the kayaks from the zodiac and went to explore this beautiful bay. Glacial cliffs surrounded Mikkelsen Harbour as well as towering mountain peaks. Our trajectory was directly towards Skottsberg Point. On the point we found three elephant seals amongst an array of gentoo penguins. Directly above the penguin colony lichen covered volcanic cliffs caught our eyes in awe. We continued this epic first paddle along the glacial cliffs, at a safe distance of course, toward a small island hosting a navigation aid. Here we saw our first gentoo penguin chick, which was fascinating for most. However, what fascinated us even more was witnessing our first glacier calving. The weather, the scenery, the adventure and the people on this day made for an unforgettable experience. We even had the opportunity to paddle through some brash ice before getting back into the zodiac. We ended the excursion with a landing on D’Hainaut Island watching more penguins, wandering through old whalebones and allowing the experience to take our breath away.
Mikkelsen Harbour lies on the southern coast of Trinity Island at the northern end of the Palmer Archipelago. Nordenskjöld on his Swedish Antarctic Expedition of 1901-4 discovered the site. The harbour was used by whalers for mooring factory ships and named for Norwegian whaler Captain Klarius Mikkelsen. On the island there is a gentoo penguin colony, a few unoccupied huts and a radio mast.
Paddle # 2 Location: Foyn Harbour, Wilhelmina Bay, Antarctica Kayak Guide: Scott Caspell, Ryan Munro Safety Zodiac Driver: Todd Weisbrot Date: 10th January, 2016 Time: 1600hrs – 1715hrs Paddlers: Kylie, Mark, Karen Todd, Sarah, Kyle, Justin, Jim, Karen Kocher, Fritz, Kazuo, Sarah, Beth, Kate, Peter, John, Diane Weather: Overcast, moderate winds, winds increasing throughout excursion Species sighted from the kayaks: Gentoo penguin, Antarctic skua, Kelp gull, Antarctic cormorant, Antarctic tern
Comment: We entered the kayaks in the shelter of a small rocky island near Foyn Harbour. We paddled downwind around the small islet where we saw a number of kelp gulls and had excellent views of the glaciers along Enterprise Island. We made our way across a narrow channel and over to a larger island where we stopped inside a very sheltered cove flanked by steep cliffs that rise about 10-15 meters out of the ocean. In this peaceful and protected oasis we observed several species of lichen growing on the rocks and saw nesting Kelp gulls. Graceful Antarctic terns were flying about the area, diving into the surface of the sea to feed in the nutrient-rich waters. We paddled further into the sheltered waters of Foyn Harbour, past several large icebergs, a triangular navigation aid on a high point, and towards the shipwreck of the Guvernoren. We paddled in a little closer for good views, but kept our distance from the steep ice cliffs that showed signs of recent calving. In the sheltered waters of Foyn Harbour the water was calm. On the shoreline we could see several old mooring posts used to anchor whaling vessels a century ago. From there we headed out towards open water, paddling past several large icebergs, and resting for a short while to observe another mooring post on a rocky spit of coastline. At this point the excursion was coming to an end. As the open waters of Wilhelmina Bay were very windy we decided to get out of the kayaks in a sheltered cove. After we disembarked the kayaks we had a choppy zodiac ride back to the Ocean Diamond, a reminder of how quickly the conditions can change in the Antarctic.
Wilhelmina Bay lies between Reclus Peninsula and Cape Anna, along the west coast of Graham Land. It was discovered by de Gerlache during the Belgian Antarctic Expedition of 1897-99, and named for Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands, who was 18 years of age at the time and reigned until 1948. It is a large 24-kilometre (15-mile) wide, glaciated bay containing many islands and is a hotspot for whales.
Kayak Excursion Report
Paddle # 3 Location: Almirante Brown, Paradise Bay, Antarctica Kayak Guide: Scott Caspell, Ryan Munro Safety Zodiac Driver: Juani Volker Date: 11th January, 2016 Time: 1430hrs – 1700 hrs Paddlers: Kylie, Mark, Karen Todd, Sarah, Kyle, Justin, Jim, Karen Kocher, Fritz, Kazuo, Sarah, Beth, Kate, Peter, John, Diane Weather: Beautiful, sunny, calm Species sighted from the kayaks: Crabeater seal, Gentoo penguin, Antarctic cormorant, Antarctic petrel, Skua, Snowy sheathbill, Kelp gull
Comment: The wind proved too strong to paddle in the morning at Neko Harbour, so in the afternoon we tried our luck in Paradise Bay. After the Ocean Diamond sailed past Waterboat Point the wind began to reside. As we approached Almirante Brown, the Argentine research station, the wind gradually decreased until the conditions were perfectly calm and ideal for paddling. The harbour was flat calm, filled with small icebergs, brash ice and sunshine, surrounded by glaciers and good vibes. Everywhere we looked the scenery was breathtaking. As we explored in Paradise we found a small iceberg and an ice floe surrounded in brash ice where several crabeater seals lay in peace, resting and digesting in the heat of the sun. We floated effortlessly in our kayaks and witnessed this spectacular scene for a while before proceeding deeper into Skontorp Cove. The conditions and weather were perfect, so we all agreed it would be best to stay on the water to take advantage of these idyllic conditions. High up in the mountains we saw several avalanches creating puffs of snow. The massive Skontorp glacier dwarfed our tiny kayaks and the zodiacs cruising in the bay. We continued along in a long wide loop paddling along towering cliffs that were home to hundreds of Antarctic cormorants. Many adult cormorants were caring for their black down coated chicks. These cliffs were encrusted with lichen and moss, and a band of turquoise, oxidized cooper was visible along the rock face. We got a good look at the Argentine research huts as we paddled past. We waited for the ship to reposition as we watched the zodiacs re- embark the passengers while on the move. We thought we had already experienced beautiful perfect conditions on our first paddle; well this one was going to be hard to top. Thanks for the good vibes folks and bringing this incredible weather.
Paradise Harbour was named by whalers for its protected anchorage. Deep and glaciated, it is a favoured location for zodiac cruising, particularly around the glaciers of Skontorp Cove, which sometime calve. This region supports nesting Antarctic cormorants, Cape petrels and Antarctic terns on the nearby cliffs. It is also home to the infrequently occupied Argentinean station Almirante Brown that is located on the Antarctic mainland. From the landing, it may be possible to hike up to a high point for spectacular views of Paradise Harbour.
Paddle # 4 Location: Pléneau Island, Antarctica Kayak Guide: Scott Caspell, Ryan Munro Safety Zodiac Driver: Todd Wiesbrot Date: 12th January, 2016 Time: 0930hrs – 1100hrs Paddlers: Kylie, Mark, Karen Todd, Sarah, Kyle, Justin, Jim, Karen Kocher, Fritz, Kazuo, Sarah, Beth, Kate, Peter, John, Diane Weather: Blue skies, mild temperature, 5˚ C, slight breeze 2-4kts Species sighted from the kayaks: Gentoo penguin, Antarctic skua, Kelp gull, Wilson’s storm petrel, Weddell seal, Antarctic cormorant, Antarctic tern, Crabeater seal, Elephant seal
Comment: After an amazing early morning passage through the Lemaire Channel we pulled into our excursion location in Pléneau Bay. Towing the kayaks behind, we drove in the zodiac towards Pléneau Island before loading into the kayaks as a slight breeze urged us northwards. The beautiful mountains of Booth Island were to our east, while numerous towering icebergs flanked our position to the north and west. We paddled southwards, arriving at a small rocky islet where we found curious gentoo penguins poking about the shore, and a surprising discovery of a dead and decaying Weddell seal lodged underneath the shore ice just above the waterline. We continued to weave our way through the rocky islets towards Pléneau Island. For one stretch of the paddle we were able to push, crunch and paddle our way through thin and transparent newly formed sea ice. The ice crunched and crackled as we propelled our kayaks forward and southward. The paddling conditions were perfectly calm in the shelter of the islands. We paddled and wove our way through the narrow channels around the islands, along the smooth rocky shorelines and abundant birdlife. At our furthest point south in the kayaks (and on the voyage!) we saw several kelp gulls and their young chicks very close to the water’s edge. Later in the paddle we were fortunate to see a young elephant seal camouflaged along the tan colored boulders about 5 meters up from the water. We hugged our way along Pléneau Island, finishing our paddle at a large pan of sea ice with a crabeater seal. What an amazing paddle!
Pléneau Island lies just south of the Lemaire Channel, between Hovgaard Island and Booth Island. The island is home to a gentoo penguin colony and lies adjacent to an iceberg gallery, where both large tabular icebergs and older, rolled icebergs have run aground. Many of these icebergs have originated from as far south as the Ross Ice Shelf.
Kayak Excursion Report
Paddle # 5 Location: Damoy Point, Newmayer Channel, Antarctica Kayak Guide: Scott Caspell, Ryan Munro Safety Zodiac Driver: Juani Volker Date: 12th January, 2016 Time: 1430hrs – 1630hrs Paddlers: Kylie, Mark, Karen Todd, Sarah, Kyle, Justin, Jim, Karen Kocher, Fritz, Sarah, Beth, Kate, Peter, Diane Weather: sunny, some clouds, 1-3 knot wind Species sighted from the kayaks: Humpback whale, Gentoo penguin, Wilson’s storm petrel, Antarctic cormorant
Comment: Our afternoon excursion was planned for Petermann Island, however due to amount of ice in the area we continued with our sense of adventure and sailed through the Neumayer Channel to Damoy Point. Once in the Neumayer Channel we began to spot orca (killer whales) and humpback whales. The Ocean Diamond anchored just off of Damoy Point in Dorian Bay, and while this was happening we could see a humpback near the ship. We gathered on the back deck outside the club lounge as usual, walked down the gangway, loaded the zodiac and drove directly out towards the humpback. We loaded into the kayaks and began to position ourselves for a close encounter with the whale. Our perseverance paid off as twice the whale approached us, and three times we had a perfect view of the diving fluke. Once the whale seemed to leave the area we continued to paddle in the middle of the Neumayer Channel, which is lined with spectacular tidewater glaciers. The Neumayer Channel is the location of the highest peak on the Antarctic Peninsula, Mount Francais (2950m). The clouds were just low enough to cover the very peak but still high enough to offer great views of the area. We finished the paddle near the shore at Damoy Point where we could see Gentoo penguins jumping in and out of the water.
Damoy Point lies at the northern entrance to Port Lockroy, on the west side of Wiencke Island in the Palmer Archipelago. There are two huts at this location: a maintained British refuge hut and an Argentinian hut. The British hut was previously used as a transit station for personnel and supplies to be taken from the ship and flown south in early summer when sea ice blocked access to Rothera (Station R). It was used intermittently between 1973 and 1993 and cleaned up in 1996/7. A gentoo penguin colony of approximately 1600 breeding pairs can be found nearby, between Damoy Point and Dorian Bay.
Paddle # 6 Location: Cuverville Island, Errera Channel, Antarctica Kayak Guide: Scott Caspell, Ryan Munro Safety Zodiac Driver: Todd Wiesbrot Date: 13th January, 2016 Time: 0930hrs – 1100hrs Paddlers: Kylie, Mark, Karen Todd, Sarah, Kyle, Justin, Jim, Karen Kocher, Fritz, Kazuo, Sarah, Kate, Peter, John, Diane Weather: Blue skies, no wind, 5˚ C Species sighted from the kayaks: Gentoo penguin, Antarctic skua, Kelp gull, Wilson’s storm petrel, Weddell seal, Antarctic cormorant, Antarctic tern
Comment: We loaded into the kayaks off the north end of Cuverville in perfectly flat and calm conditions. Huge icebergs floated nearby, while the towering mountains of the Errera Channel provided a stunning backdrop to the area. We paddled past several bergy bits to make our way to the shoreline to look at the gentoo penguins. We had excellent views of the penguins, the exposed cliff face of Cuverville, and we even had a guest appearance from a swimming Weddell seal right along our kayas. We continued to paddle clockwise around the island, enjoying the spectacular views, chunks of ice of various sizes, and abundant bird life. Gentoo penguins were along the shoreline in and out of the water. Young penguin chicks were visible from our position on the water. Antarctic terns flew by, with a few chasing skuas in a dramatic aerial displays. Towards the south end of Cuverville we were able to see Antarctic cormorant chicks, which were quite large and still in their dark down plumage. Along the back side of the island the Errera channel was choked with huge icebergs. We proceeded cautiously until we could see a safe passage between several bergs. We paddled single file through the opening and once through the opening we paused for a break in a calm, open area to rest our muscles, take a few photos, and enjoy the scenery. Continuing the circumnavigation we paddled up to a rocky island with huge chains and an old water boat from the whaling era. A small yacht was anchored to this island and we could see some of its passengers starting to climb up the western side of Cuverville Island. After paddling through several shallow areas we arrived back at the north end of Cuverville where we disembarked the kayaks and headed to shore. What a lovely paddle! Cuverville Island lies in the Errera Channel, between Rongé Island and the Arctowski Peninsula. This small rocky island has vertical cliffs measuring 200 m (650 ft) in elevation with extensive moss cover. Cuverville Island is home to the largest gentoo penguin colony in the region (6,500 breeding pairs), along with southern giant petrels, kelp gulls, Antarctic terns, snowy sheathbills and south polar skuas.
Kayak Excursion Report
Paddle # 7 Location: Danco Island, Errera Channel, Antarctica Kayak Guide: Ryan Munro Safety Zodiac Driver: Scott Caspell Date: 13th January, 2016 Time: 1430hrs – 1630hrs Paddlers: Kylie, Mark, Sarah, Kyle, Sarah, Beth, Kate, Peter Weather: sunny, some clouds, variable wind 2-7 knots, chilly Species sighted from the kayaks: Leopard seal, Weddell seal, Crabeater seal, Gentoo penguins, Skua, Snowy sheathbill
Comment: Danco Island was the site of our last Antarctic paddle. Not all participants came out for this paddle, with half choosing to join the regular ship operation of a landing and zodiac cruise. This paddle started out a little different as we had a few kayakers try the seal launch off the pontoons of the zodiac. Four paddlers boarded the kayak on top of the zodiac and were pushed into the water. It was definitely a thrill for those who tried and good fun for the observers. We started the paddle in a slight breeze, however throughout our time on the water the wind steadily increased. This excursion was also a bit chillier than the morning, yet nevertheless we ventured on. We paddled towards the island on the north end of Danco into some small bergy bits and around a tiny islet that hosted several Weddell seals and gentoo penguins. One Weddell seal was in the water and we sat quietly in the kayaks as the seal watched us and swam about our boats. Just as we passed by a small bergy bit, it completely rolled over, another first for us all. We then proceeded towards the shore where we got an up close view of more gentoo penguins as well as the gentle ocean swell crashing into the shore. We attempted to circumnavigate the island but the back side had two huge icebergs which prevented us from paddling in that area, so we decided to loop back around and head over towards another small islet out in the middle of the back channel to the east of Danco Island. Here we spotted a leopard seal sleeping on a low-lying iceberg. This was our first sighting of this intimidating yet majestic animal. The group decided they would like to finish the excursion by going to shore for a hike and one final view of Antarctica.
Danco Island lies in the southern end of the Errera Channel. It is relatively small, 1.6 km (1 mi) long, but quite high (180 m or 590 ft). The view from the top of Danco Island is spectacular due to the heavily crevassed glaciers in the surrounding mountains. Beautiful rolled icebergs also tend to collect in this area of the channel. Danco Island is home to approximately 1,600 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins which breed quite high up on the slopes. Danco Island was also home to the British Antarctic Survey’s Station O. Fieldwork conducted from this hut focused on surveying the region and geological research. It was closed in 1959 when work was completed.
It has been a great pleasure to paddle with you all and explore these stunning and unique places. Thank you for your sense of adventure, flexibility and enthusiasm to make the most of all opportunities. You have each helped to make this a great experience for the rest of the team, helping each other on and off the water and creating a strong paddling team. The sense of friendship and fun has been great to be part of.
We wish you well for future plans and many more adventures in wild places with old friends and new friends.
Ryan and Scott