LostLost Landscapesandscapes HERITAGEL TRAIL A shrunken hamlet,some of the rarest wild flowers in Britain and a tomb in the middle of a large woodland.These are just some of the highlights on this Lost Landscapes Heritage Trail,a new circular walk along the Way.

The main trail explores the parish of Cuxton,a place of ancient woodlands and historic settlements,with spectacular views over the and a network of dry valleys.Cuxton's heritage really does span the whole of human history - from a Stone Age axe factory to the building of the Medway Bridge . If you wish, you can extend the trail by taking the 'Darnley diversion' into the Cobham Estate.

The main text of the booklet consists of detailed directions and information on points of interest along the trail.The back pages of the booklet cover other important local heritage themes.

The Lost Landscapes project

With grants from the Heritage Lottery Fund (through the Local Heritage Initiative) and the Rail Link Countryside Initiative, the Lost Landscapes project,organised by the North Downs Way National Trail,has been taking place in six communities along the North Downs. People in these communities have been looking into the heritage and history of their area and discovering what it is that makes their parishes special.Their contributions are the backbone of this booklet.

The Cuxton Heritage Trail has been carefully chosen to take in the best of the heritage features of the area. As you walk you will find that the history has been brought back to life by the wonderful recollections and memories of local people.

Enjoy your journey back in time! A bout the trail...

Di s t a n c e s Terr a i n Main route (purple) - 3.7 miles Unmade tracks through fields and woo d s .M u d dy at From start to point A hi t , or merel y grazed,was Court Lodge,home of Sh o r ts drawing offices [Shorts was an aircraft manu- 'D a r n l e y diversion' (orange) - 2.2 miles ti m e s . Some steep climbs (marked on map) . 1.S t a r t at Cuxton station.Walk up Station Road,awa y fa c t u r er based in the area]...The staff had left in a H fr om the station and Cuxton Marin a . The road bends to body and wer e now gathered outside the Wh i t e the left.Fol l o w it until you come to a T junction with the Ha r t expecting to be let in and provided with I G main road (A228),with the White Hart pub on your left. br a n d y ! " POINT A - WHITE HART PUB These extracts are taken from Cuxton Remembered by Roman beginnings and Lilian Bennett. F wartime memories From point A to point B The White Hart pub was built in 1860.During con- 2. At the end of Station Road,turn right then use the cros s - st r u c t i o n , considerable finds of Roman pottery wer e ing place to cross the main roa d . CAUT I O N : This is a very ma d e .The finds are now lost but it is rec o r ded that busy roa d , please take care. D one of the vessels had the name of the potter, Y Ma t e r nu s , stamped on it.This is one of many pieces of 3. Having crossed the roa d , turn rig h t ,c r oss Bush Road and Y P evidence for substantial Roman occupation in this walk past the petrol station.You are now on Sundrid g e Hill. C pa r t of the parish.We'll find out more about that on Continue until you rea c h a left hand turn called Pilgrim s our return to the village at the end of the walk. E ! Way .Stop here (do not turn left yet ) . ! Y The Lost Landscapes project rec e i v ed a contribution POINT B - MEDWAY VALLEY B that included a personal account of the White Hart A view of history spanning J written by Lilian Bennett,who first went to live at the pub in 1914.She recalled how this part of the village over 1400 years lo o k ed then: ! Look to your right over the Medway Val l e y,tow a rd s N A START K m (Cuxton "At that time the 'White Hart' grounds stret c h e d the Medway bridge.When it was built in 1963,th i s right across to the station on one side,and almost to bridge was the longest of its type in the wor l d .L o c a l L Y Station) the Vicarage drive on Church Hill.Th e r e was not a resident Dave May took this photograph of the N house in sight,but the marsh today is almost the bridge under construction. For key to background map refer to any same as it was then...Then there wer e the hops,all up Ordnance Survey Explorer map M one side of the village street (Bush Road) and Da ve has told us extending past the school..." about his inves t i g a - Main route P Parking tions of the river at ‘Darnley diversion’ m Pub serving food Lilian rec o r ded memories from both World War s . . . lo w tide,wh i c h A Point of interest in text Steep climb revealed the ! Y Bench Fr om WW I : pr esence of tree s CAUTION at this point "S u dd e n l y 'Big Lizzie' (the gun on the other side of stumps in the ~ Viewpoint Steps the river) pounded awa y.The whole pub shook...As in t e r tidal mud : we looked out of the window we saw a Zeppelin The map above shows the trail rou t e s , and the booklet contains detailed written directions in num b e r ed steps,bu t which my aunt said was prob a b l y going towa rd s “The ancient tree you may find it useful to take an Ordnance Survey map for this area - Explorer no.148 or Landranger no.17 8 . Lo n d o n . " roots started about mid way between the Getting to Cuxton Fr om WW I I : bridge and the brick- By train - there is a station in Cuxton, which is also the start point of the trail.The station is on the Medway Val l e y "I decided to go to the woods to get some black- works cree k .T h e s e line between and Paddock Woo d . For train times telephone 08457 484950. be rr i e s , and while there the air raid warning sounded. tr ee roots are only A huge black bomber swooped over h e a d , with exposed on spring By car - take the A228 from junction 2 of the M2 or junction 4 of the M20.The A228 will take you into the centre sp i t f i r es after it...I cower ed in the hedge,bullets wer e tides...on a layer of of Cuxton.Look for a cros s r oads at the White Hart pub and turn down Station Road.Pa r k i n g : on street along fl ying every w h e r e...In a few minutes it was all over. . . I what appears to be Station Road,at the White Hart pub (please give them your custom) or car park at top of Sundridge Hill. decided to carry on picking blackberries and about 5 pe a t . . . Most of the By bus - the 151 service goes through Cuxton.Th e r e is a bus stop by the White Hart pub (point A on the trail). o' c l o c k , headed for home.When I got to the top of roots are wel l Ch u r ch Hill,I stopped in amazement.Outside the decomposed but a Be safe, be prep a re d pub wer e crowds of people.I raced down the hill - I few still have quite hard parts . ” (Please note - it is Please take care when walking on roads (use pavement if available or keep to the right) and crossing roads and rail- thought the pub had been hit.Not so.What had been ver y dangerous to walk in the river channel.) way s . Points where caution should be exer cised are highlighted on the map and in the text.Alw a ys wear suitable clothing and foo t we a r .Al l o w plenty of time for your walk - about an hour for ever y 2 miles (more for elderly or inexperienced walker s ) .A lw a ys keep to the countryside code (see back of booklet). 3 POINT C - LONGHOES WOO D welcome to explore the rest of the farm via the ar able fie l d . (If you look to your right you may see the First steps into the ancient ne t w ork of marked paths: pointed top of the Darnley Mausoleum in the tree s . Glimpses of the Mausoleum from a distance were woodland " is a combined nature res e r ve and designed to remind you of your morta l i t y. ) working farm occupying 560 acres (227 hectares ) . . . This is Longhoes Woo d , the first of a number of With over 10 km of foo t p a t h s , it offers a grea t 13 . Keep straight ahead at a marked junction.On rea ch i n g ancient woodlands on this walk.Its unusual name op p o r tunity to explore a classic landscape of woo d - the edge of the fie l d , walk through the trees in front of you comes from the Old English lang hoh,meaning long la n d , arable fields and grassland with a rich diversity of and up the steps.Stop at the top. spur of land.See the section on 'Special Woo d l a n d s ' wi l d l i f e. Its natural fea t u r es have changed rem a r k a b l y (page 14) for more infor m a t i o n . little since the 18th century.. . " POINT E - MILL HILL WOO D Ranscombe Farm Reserve - leaflet produced by Plantlife A national treasure From Point C to point D In t e r n a t i o n a l . Tree roots in 7. Walk through the woodland,keeping straight on and You are standing at the edge of Mill Hill Woo d ,w h i c h intertidal mud (Dave May) The Darnley Diversion section of this walk takes you is nationally important and protected by law.Much of rea c h the edge of the wood,wh e r e the path carries on th r ough some of the most interesting areas of Ranscombe. ah e a d ,a c r oss an arable fie l d . it is ancient.For more infor m a t i o n , see the 'Special The valley floor to your right was the site of the nine- Woodlands' section on page 14. teenth century Cuxton brickworks which operated Local resident Ken Law has res e a r ched the origins of 8. At the far side of the fie l d , stop at a marked T junction of the name of this farm:"P ro b a b l y from Old English fr om the 1850s until the 1970s.This was a major pa t h s . It is said locally that the base of the windmill that gave em p l o yer in the village and its bricks wer e sent up hra e f n or hra e m n meaning raven , and cu m b a valley." Mill Hill its name was moved to Cobham and the on barges to London where they POINT D - RANSCOMBE FAR M co n ver ted into a house.A house like this exists in wer e used in prestigious buildings such as the British Ken found that the name has gone through many Cobham but it has been impossible to establish Mu s e u m . A farm in a time warp co r ruptions through the centuries: whether it came originally from Cuxton. First rec o r ded 1199 - Ra i n e s c u m b e No w we take a big leap back in time,into the Early You may be awa r e that you are now walking in In 1200 - de Rammescombe or de Rennescumbe Mi d dle Ag e s , when a Saxon warrior was buried on Ranscombe Farm,a farm which gives us a glimpse In 1392 - de Rammescombe If you want to take the Darnley the valley slopes near here.The grave was discovere d into an era befor e modern agriculture.Of parti c u l a r In 1769 - Ra n t s c o m b in 1859 by workmen digging the railwa y.Buried with im p o r tance are fields that have remained rel a t i ve l y di ve rs i o n , turn right,into the wood and the body wer e grave goods - weap o n s , a bron z e un a f f ected by intensive farming,and become home to Ken also has personal recollections of the farm from fo l l o w directions from step DD1 below bu c k l e ,an urn and a heavy javelin known as an angon . some exceptionally rare plants.Ranscombe is now WW I I : The finds are in the British Museum and the skel e t o n managed by Plantlife International and a tenant is in the collection of the Royal College of Surgeons. farmer to conserve its unique botanical trea s u re s . "On 14th November 1944 a doodlebug [a V1 'flyi n g To stay on the main wal k , turn left and bomb'] hit an elm tree and exploded above grou n d cr oss the bridge over the rai l wa y .Skip to In 1998,an Anglo-Saxon cemetery was found in the The buildings you can see across the fields form the causing extensive damage to the farm house and step 14 on page 8. same part of the valley,during excavations prior to main homestead of Ranscombe,consisting of a tradi- oa s t . The farmer,Hay l e y Pye,had a narrow escape .On Channel Tunnel Rail Link construction.Th i r ty-six tional barn, se ven cottages and the farmhouse, hearing the missile coming down , he ran from his burials and two cremations wer e fou n d . The built around the turn of the century.The original of f i c e ,th r ough the house and with Mrs Pye dived into cr emation urns wer e dated to between 550 and 650 farmhouse dated from at least the 17th century. the Morrison shelter,emerging to find his office The Darnley diver s i o n Th e r e is no public access to this area , but walkers are de s t r oyed . " AD .A fantastic arra y of grave goods was fou n d , From point E to point F including spearheads,kn i ve s , keys ,r i n g s , coins and two From Point D to point E pu r s e s . DD 1 . Walk into the woods and come to a fork in the path. Go rig h t . From point B to point C 9. Turn left (onto the North Downs Way ) .S h o r tly the path bends to the left then rig h t , past a metal field gate.(H e r e is a good viewpoint over the Medway Val l e y. ) DD 2 . Keep straight on,with the edge of the wood on your 4. Turn left into Pilgrims Way .CAUT I O N : rig h t , and emerge back into the arable fie l d . Th e r e is no pavement past this point. 10 . Continue to a kissing gate,go through and walk down - DD 3 . Walk past a large tree ,keeping it on your left,th e n 5. Just befor e the turning for Pet ch a r t hi l l . Soon after,the path emerges into a large fie l d . Fol l o w the edge of the fie l d ,d ow n h i l l , with woodland to your rig h t . turn left at the marker .Stay on this path,th r ough the fie l d , Cl o s e ,turn left onto a public foo t p a t h . for about 1/4 mile. Fol l o w the path steeply uphill,until you (A lost pathway ,wh i c h used to cut across this field then continue to Ranscombe far m , is shown on old maps.) rea c h a level cros s i n g . CAUT I O N : Tak e care DD 4 . At the edge of the fie l d , keep straight on,ba c k into on this crossing - stop,look both ways and the wood. listen carefully befor e cros s i n g . 11 . Pass a bench on your right and keep straight on at the tra c k junction. DD 5 . Walk right through this part of the wood and into 6. Having crossed the rai l wa y ,keep strai g h t The interior of the 12 . Fol l o w the path down h i l l . It then crosses the large another arable fie l d . on ,u p h i l l , into woodland. Kent barn, Ranscombe (Ken Law)

4 5 POINT F - RARE WILD FLOWER FIELD POINT G - TOE MONUMENT From point G to point H si g n i f i c a n c e .The Bishop of Rochester,ho wever ,did not Mirror mirror on the wall, who The scene of a fatal accident app r eciate these qualities and,it is said,sa w the DD8 Continue uphill,coming to a marked cros s - r oads at building as un-Christian.He therefo r e refused to is the rarest of them all? Sometimes you hear a story and you don't the top.Turn left and walk into an area of large,ve r y old consecrate it on its completion,so the Mausoleum tre e s . was never used Blue pimpernel.Ni g h t - f l o wer i n g kn o w whether to laugh or cry.Th e events that led to the building of this for its intended ca t c h f l y.Ven us' looking-glass. POINT H - COBHAM DEER PAR K pu r p o s e . Some evoc a t i v e names for ruined monument certa i n l y fall into that categor y. Ed w a rd , 5th Earl of Land of secretive deer some beautiful wild flower s The location of that grow here,but muc h Da r n l e y,was walking around his estate with two companions in You are now entering the historic landscape of the Mausoleum mo r e than that.These plants in this woo d l a n d ar e exceptionally rare, Feb r u a r y 1835 when they Cobham Deer Park.The park dates to the fifteenth en c o u n t e r ed some woo d s m e n ce n t u r y and,although the deer herd no longer exists, was no accident. making this simple looking Eighteenth field one of the best places at wor k . The Earl app ro a c h e d a few animals are said to remain in wooded corners them and,ac c o r ding to an of the park. ce n t u r y land- to see arable wild flowers in sc a pe design the country. account from a member of his ho u s e h o l d ,s a i d . . . This landscape did not evol v e by accident - it was tried to rec re a t e When agriculture ca re f u l l y designed as part of the Cobham Estate.As the idealised rural modernised and farmers "' N o w I'll show you how to cut a such it is listed on the national Historic Parks and la n d s c a pes fou n d st a r ted to use chemicals to root in halves,' and took the Ga r dens Register.It is also important for its wildlife. in the work of co n t r ol wee d s , the wild plants that Woodcutter's Ax e and struck hard The many large old trees in particular provide habi- painters such as had alwa ys grown alongside arable upon the Root,when the Ax e glided off tats for birds ,b a t s ,r a r e insects and fungi,and the park Poussin and cr ops of started to disapp e a r . Bu t and just caught the little toe of his foot and part is protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interes t . Preliminary investigations Cl a u d e . Ranscombe Farm escaped much of this change,an d of the next thro' his Boot. He started and said 'I have for the restoration of Un fo rt u n a t e l y he r e in this field is a sanctuary for these special plants, harmed mys e l f , I fear! But it might have been wor s e From point H to point I the Darnley Mausoleum (CAMS) this vision has no w national rarities.The corncockle (above,right) is and I ought to consider myself fort u n a t e. ' " been spoilt by so rare that this is thought to be the only place in the DD 9 .C a r r y on walking through the deer park.Sh o r tly you decades of neglect and vandalism,and the building has UK it can be seen in the wild. The Earl clearly didn't take the accident seriously - will emerge into a cle a r ing with the Darnley Mausoleum at been at risk of complete ruin. the next day he wrot e. . . its centre. Local resident Dave May recalls seeing this decline: "' W e are all well here, ba r ring that I almost cut off a POINT I - THE DARNLEY MAUS O L E U M little toe with an axe yes t e rd ay :p r ovi d e n t i a l l y it is a A powerful symbol of death “I can remember the Mausoleum having wrou g h t matter of no consequence,but might have been a iro n w ork and a rather attractive orange marble on serious accident.'" the pillars...Then vandalism increased towa r ds the late Seeing the Darnley Mausoleum for the first time is an 19 6 0 ’ s to early 1970’s. . . ” experience that most people never for g e t . To come But in the days befor e tetanus injections,such an ac r oss such an imposing,un usual building in the in j u r y was a serious matter.This illness,also known as In 2002 it fea t u r ed in the BBC TV prog r a m m e mi d dle of a large woodland is bound to make an Re s t o ra t i o n .It didn't prog r ess beyond the first stage, lo c k - j a w,set in and a week after the accident,the Earl im p re s s i o n , and the Mausoleum was built to do just di e d , aged 39. but funding has been raised from other sources and, th a t . Designed in the Neo-Classical style by James at the time this booklet was published,st r u c t u r a l Wyatt for the 4th Earl of Darnley,it exhibited the The Earl's widow decided the place where the repairs and cleaning wer e under way as part of a highest standards of arch i t e c t u r e,engineering and wider project to res t o r e Cobham Park. accident had occurred should be commemorated, craftsmanship of the time.It was built in 1783 from Arable wild flowers and the toe monument was erected - a stone among the wheat crop. Por tland stone,its cube base surmounted by a From point I back to point E memorial in simple style decorated with the Darnley pyramid and surrounded by Doric,fluted columns. cre s t , set among suitably funereal yew tree s . These forms are designed to symbolise the dignity From point F to point G DD 1 0 . Turn left at a marked junction,be fo r e the and finality of death.Of course this building also Mausoleum and walk into the woods,going down h i l l . What you see now are just fragments of the rep r esented wealth - it cost £9,000,wh i c h , in 1783, DD 6 . Walk diagonally uphill right across the fie l d , and into a mo nu m e n t , some of which bear parts of the cres t . was a huge sum,equivalent to £1 million today. la r g e woodland.At an unmarked junction,keep straight on. On l y the brick plinth on which the memorial stood is DD 1 1 . At an un-marked junction turn left.Come to another unmarked junction and go straight on (over track ) . no w intact. Wyatt took his influences from the ancient wor l d , DD 7 . Walk steeply uphill (entering Cobham Pari s h ) . As you fr om classical arch i t e c t u r e,Judaism and Free m a s o n r y, DD 1 2 . Continue downhill and come to a stagger ed junc- rea c h the top,wh e r e the path bends to the left,look to The extracts quoted above are from Ed wa rd , Fifth Earl even finding inspiration in the tomb of Mausolus your left down the bank for a clump of four yew tree s of Darnley by Lady Elizabeth Cust and Evely n ti o n . Turn rig h t , then immediately left,fol l o wing yel l o w tape himself (which is where the wor d mausoleum comes on tree s . forming a rec t a n g l e .To see the remains of the Toe Georgiana Pelham (1913). fro m ) . The building he designed is a shining example Mo n u m e n t , walk over to these tree s .Return to this path to of the Neo-Classical style and now of international continue the diversi o n . DD 1 3 . You will now emerge back into the rar e wild flowe r

6 7 fie l d . Walk uphill,di a g onally across the field towar ds a small ce n t u r y it was the other way round - this was a busy, Thomas Ratfor d - shoemaker So what led to this busy settlement becoming the metal gate in the top corner . bustling place and it was Cuxton that was the smaller, William Baker - grocer and (app ro p r i a t e l y) baker secluded backwater we see now? The first factor was mo r e out-of-the-way settlement. a change in own e r s h i p. . had been own e d DD 1 4 . Go through the gate and walk along the edge of a This demonstrates how much busier Bush was then. by the Darnley family,as part of the Cobham Estate field with woodland to your left.(Good viewpoint here.) To prove that this was the case,let's first look at early In his book Cu x t o n , A Kentish Vi l l a g e,De r ek Church since 1747 (and befor e that by Lord Romney - see Or dnance Survey maps of both settlements painted a picture of how the hamlet might have the 'Whornes Place map' section,page 15).In 1949, DD 1 5 . The path bends to the right and shortly afterward s lo o k ed at this time: the Cobham Estate was acquired by the City of turns left into the woods.Go down some steps.At an Ro c h e s t e r . un m a r k ed junction,go straight on. "As we app r oach from Lower Bush...we would come to the first of the cottages on our left occupied in The second factor was economic and social change. DD 1 6 . Walk through the woods for about 0.25 miles.Pas s 1837 by Thomas Goodyer and opposite was the After WW I I , Cuxton expanded,at first due to the a bench on your rig h t , and keep straight on.Keep strai g h t home of William Pembles who ran a market garde n . local industries and later its growing role as a on past two unmarked junctions. Both houses wer e surrounded by orch a rd s . . . B e yon d co m m uter village.Meanwhile Bush went into decline Mr Goodyer's house was a row of three cottages... - facilities wer e lost and houses fell into disrep a i r .In DD 1 7 . You will find yourself back at the fork in the path at kn o wn as 'Clack Al l ey ' . . . T h e y wer e originally one 1960 the local council made the decision to demolish point DD1.Turn right and walk back to the rai l w ay brid g e. ho u s e ,the first part of which was built in about 1390 most of the hamlet, le a ving only five buildings. Cr oss the brid g e to continue the main rou t e . [n o w called 'Barrow Hill House']...Just south of Clack Al l e y was the wheelright's shop occupied for many Da r n l e y diver sion ends. years by Mr William Burr...The Green was usually st r ewn with carts and farm implements which had been brought up to Mr Burr for rep a i r. " From point E to point J The hamlet also had its own chape l .C l e a r l y it was a thriving rural commun i t y .What's more,it continue d 14 . Having crossed the brid g e over the rai l wa y ,turn rig h t , to thrive,and grow.Lilian Bennet recalls that betwee n on the North Downs Way .Pass the 'Mill Hill Wood' sign WWI and WWII Bush was... and a bench, then keeping straight ahead at a junction. "...a much larger place than it is now.It had its own off 15 . Keep straight on,dow n h i l l . Eventually you will rea c h a licence and baker y and many cottages....Bush had Upper Bush from May’s second 'Mill Hill Wood' sign and a wooden kissing gate, ma n y things that Cuxton lacked . " Wood in the 1970s (Dave May) wh i c h you should go throu g h , onto Bush Road.CAUT I O N : Fr om Cuxton Remembered by Lilian Bennett This road is quite busy for a country lane and there is no Ken Law recalls this period with sadness: pa v e m e n t ; please take care. De r ek Church rec o r ded the recollections of someone who lived in Upper Bush at this time: "The Corporation bought it...with the intention of 16 . Turn rig h t . After a short distance,ta k e the footpath sign- making it a rural outlet for the citizens of Rochester. posted off to the left,on the North Downs Way .(As you "When Mrs Ablett lived at Upper Bush as a girl it was This scheme did not materialise,and the only res u l t cro s s ,look down to your right and you will see the hamlet a ver y differ ent place.Her father,Mr Henry Baker , has been the pulling down of Bush Farm,a fine of Lower Bush,wh e r e the local blacksmith used to be kept the off-licence and baker y and there wer e 22 example of a 300 year old farmstead and an old ba s e d . ) You can see that Cuxton was much smaller than it is houses altogether;Cuxton itself,she tells me, had but ch a pel built in 1200 AD .An old elm tree ,said to be no w and had fewer buildings than Upper Bush, nine at this time." the oldest in the county has also been rem o ved . . . A t 17 .C r oss the corner of this arable field and emerge onto kn o wn at that time as Upper Birch . the end of 1963 all the families living in Bush except Upper Bush Road.Turn left,and walk uphill,into Upper tw o wer e re-housed in Cuxton council houses or Bush.( The small woodland you pass on your right used to The hamlet now known as Bush has gone throu g h fl a t s . " be an orcha rd . The fir st building you see on your left start- other name changes, as res e a r ched by Ken Law: ed life as accommodation for soldiers in WW I . ) 1267 - Be re r c e Despite all of this,Upper Bush still has a number of 1400 - Be r esse or Be re s h notable buildings.Among these are two beautiful 15th POINT J - UPPER BUSH 1800 - Bi r c h ce n t u r y hall houses - 'High Birch ' , and 'Barrow Hill The hamlet that almost The name originally came from the Old English be r e Ho u s e ' . Both would also have been lost to the bull- ers c ,meaning barley stubble field. dozers but for a campaign by local people.Th e y are disappeared no w listed buildings.Also look out for the 'Old Ken also found this list of 'notable residents' living in Ba ke r y' and a house called 'Over s t r a n d s ' , which used As you walk into Upper Bush you will find one of the Bush in Bagshaw's Ge n e r al History of Ken t fr om 1847: to be the off-license.It is because of buildings like sm a l l e s t , quietest and most secluded hamlets in this William Burr - wheelwr i g h t these that,pe r h a ps iron i c a l l y,Upper Bush is now pa r t of Ken t .C o m p a r ed to the large,busy village of Ro b e r t Clifton - blacksmith ‘Clack Alley’ in 1904 pr otected as a Conservation Ar ea by the local Cu x t o n , it is tranquil and quite rem o t e .You may find it Ma r y Goodhew - school mistres s (Ken Law/Derek Church) co u n c i l . ha r d to believe that in the 19th and early 20th

8 9 From point J to point K and to your right used to be an orcha r d known as Roger ' s 1895 - Mr W.Py e Dean Orcha rd , then a hop garde n ,s h e l t e r ed by a lost strip 1922 - Mr J.W.Py e 18 . Walk along the lane,and where it bends to the rig h t , of woodland called Roger's Dean Shaw.) keep straight on,on a rough track , on the North Down s Of course Ken has many memories of the farm: Way ,past a North Downs Way milestone. 22 .C r oss the roa d . The path continues on the other side, past some metal rai l i n g s ,climbing steeply.Stop about half "Dean Farm was the last farm in the area to use 19 . Keep straight on,past a timbered house called 'High way up the hill. working horses.It was also the last farm to grow Bi r ch ' . The trac k becomes a footpath between two hedges . ho p s . The last of them being grubbed out in the early 19 6 0 s . " 20 . Soon you will rea c h a fork in the path.Go left (leaving POINT L - DEAN FAR M the North Downs Way ) . Keep straight on,past a wide trac k Lost hops and houses "It was mainly an arable farm,gr owing hops,oa t s , to the left.You are now at one end of Bush Val l e y . 1960s - The farmstead with the wh e a t ,b a r l e y, po t a t o e s ,h a y and root plants for animal cottages intact and still lived in. fee d . Bullocks wer e kept in the yard to produce the POINT K - BUSH VAL L E Y ma nu r e for the fields and for beef." The airfields that And from WW I I : didn't exist "The De Havilland Mosquito.. . d e veloped engine tr ouble and was losing height rapi d l y.It tried to turn You prob a b l y know that Kent was and land in Dean Val l e y,but its wings clipped the right at the front-line in the battle for tre e s , which spun it into May's Wood [ahead of you ] , air supremacy in WW I I , with its air- fields playing a key rol e .But there wer e some airfields that never saw a The area where the Mosquito crashed single take-off or landing,or even a (Dave May) real aircr a f t . These wer e 'decoy' ai r f i e l d s , and there was one right 1994 - The cottages empty and he r e,in the valley to your right - boarded up with a fence to keep out vandals. Bush Val l e y. Dean Farm in the 1950s Ken Law remembers it wel l : (note the hop gardens). "T h e r e was a decoy airfield with two lines of landing lights ...The decoy lights wer e con- tr olled and power ed by a generator in a blockhouse If you look down to your right,you will see the oast in Longbottom Wood...The intention being to foo l houses of Dean Farm,sitting in the Dean Val l e y.At the far end of the valley is a dis-used chalk quarry (now the enemy into dropping their bombs there instead wh e r e it immediately burst into flames and exploded of a populated area .U n fo rt u n a t e l y it seems it foo l e d la n d s c ap e d ) , which was mined by Rugby Cement.Th i s is a landscape that has been through some changes in the ammun i t i o n . The farm wor k ers...tried to res c u e one our of crippled Halifax bombers,which crashed the pilot,but the intense heat and the ammunition on Bavins bank,just short of the decoy strip.. . " the 20th century.We are lucky to have a visual rec o r d of these changes in the form of photograph s firing off in all directions made it impossible." ta k en by Ken Law,who grew up on Dean Farm. Mr Godding from Halling,pr ovided details of this Ag a i n , Mr Godding has res e a r ched details of this cr a s h : the pilot was American and the rest of the The four photographs opposite show the 1994 - Burnt out by vandals. cr a s h : the aircraft was from 21 Squadron based at cr ew Canadian;th e y wer e returning from a raid on Gr a ves e n d , the crash occurred on April 21st 1944. Chemmitz on 6th March 1945. un fo r tunate demise of the farm cottages. In fact,when the cottages wer e demolished,it wasn't Another WWII connection with this valley is that Also near here was an anti-aircraft gun manned by PL U T O (the 'pipeline under the ocean') runs throu g h the Royal Art i l l e r y.The gun,plus a searchlight and the first time that the main dwelling at Dean Farm had been lost - Ken Law's res e a r ch has revealed that it . It was constructed to supply fuel for the D-Day accommodation for the men was located by the la n d i n g s . footpath junction where you left the North Down s the original farmhouse burnt down in 1850. Way. He has also made this list of past farmers at Dean From point L to point M Fa r m : From point K to point L 23 .C a r r y on to the top of the hill,and rea c h a marked ju n c t i o n . Keep straight on,into May's Woo d . 21 . Keep straight on,steeply uphill,th r ough a belt of tree s 1763 - Mr John Tomlin (nearby Tomlins Lane is at the edge of the fie l d . You will then start to head down h i l l , named after him) 1808 - Mr Pren t i s 24 . Walk uphill into the woodland.At a marked junction, into the Dean Val l e y ,rea c hing a road.( The area behind you 1995 - The cottages being demolished turn left. 1882 - Mr Tuf f (note the chalk quarry in the background).

10 11 POINT M - MAY’S WOO D 26 . After a short distance you will rea c h a for k . Go rig h t . Re c t o r y was found evidence of muc h , much earlier the Rectory garde n , a place which has shown us that Woodland - ancient and Re a c h the edge of the wood and go through a metal human activity - hand axes from the Palaeolithic humans have been changing the landscape of Cuxton kissing gate.Keep straight on,between two fie l d s . pe r i o d , the Old Stone Ag e .Th e y wer e not chance for hundreds of thousands of yea r s . modern finds - this area was,it seems,a local centre for the 27 . Pass a bench and come to a stile.Cr oss the stile near a making of hand axes .E x c a vations in the Rectory As you walk through May's Woo d ,c o m p a r e the be a c o n . (This is a superb viewp o i n t . ) ga r den in 1962 revealed the Stone Age equivalent of woodland on either side of this path.The two sides a hand axe factory,400,000 years old! Over 200 axes look quite differe n t , don't they? The woodland on 28 . Walk straight ahead,to war ds the chu r c h towe r .Go wer e fou n d , of a type known as Ac h e u l e a n . This your left has been replanted with conifers (prob a b l y dow n h i l l , rea c h the corner of the field and go through a ord i n a r y looking garden is the site of some of the since WW I I ) . This is known as Ancient Replanted wooden kissing gate.Turn left.You will quickly come to for k earliest known human activity in the whole of Britain, Woo d l a n d . The woodland on your right has not been in the path - go rig h t . You will then rea c h a marked and as such is a Scheduled Ancient Monum e n t . replanted and is known as Ancient Semi-Natural ju n c t i o n , near a sign marking the entrance to Six Ac r e Woo d l a n d . It is generally a better habitat for wildlife. Wood - turn rig h t . Go through the gate into the Wild flowers in May’s Wood chu r c hyard . (Dave May) POINT N - CHURCHYARD AND RECTOR Y GA R D E N Humanity's earliest chapter Standing here in the churchy a r d of St Michael and Al l Angels church , it is clear that you are in a ver y special location within the parish.Th e r e has been a church he r e since at least the 9th century,as the Rector ex p l a i n s : "The Saxons certa i n l y had a church here,po s s i b l y of st o n e ,po s s i b l y of woo d . It was given by Ethelwu l f , King of the West Saxons (839-855 AD) to the Bishop of Rochester." A Per sonal Guide to Cuxton Par ish Church by Rev.Ro g e r Kn i g h t . Such a long history is remarkable enough,but it seems that this has been an important place goi n g back much farther than that.This part of the village - the churchy a rd , the garden of the rec t o r y and a number of other gardens nearby - has been a hotbed of archaeological finds.Ma n y of these are Roman:

He r e in the churchy a rd , Roman bricks,ma s o n r y A flint tool found in this area of Cuxton - although de b r i s ,p o t t e r y and tiles have been fou n d , often during from a later period than those found in the Rectory the digging of graves . In a nearby garde n , Roman garden- the Neolithic. It was found by Dave May cr emation urns,po t t e r y fragments and a bron z e when the car park of the White Hart pub was buckle wer e found in the 1950s.A decade later,th e excavated, and is now in Rochester Museum. sk eleton of a Roman woman from the 2nd century To complete our journey though Cuxton's past,le t ' s Ma y's Wood fea t u r es on a ver y old estate map of this AD was found in the same garde n . The woman had been decapitated and her head placed between her look at the three photographs opposite.Th e y wer e all are a . To find out more,see the 'Whorne's Place map' ta k en by Ken Law,the first two in 1961,the third in section on page 15. knees with pottery vessels placed at her fee t .T h i s pa r t of the Medway Val l e y is host to several Roman 20 0 5 .T h e y show how Cuxton has grown in that From point N to Start pe r i o d , and there is no doubt that the landscape of From point M to point N villa sites and it is likel y that a Roman cemetery once occupied this part of the village,pre s u m a b l y serving a the village has changed a great deal in the lifetime of 29 .C r oss the chu r c hyard , and turn left,aw ay from the settlement of some kind. ma n y local people.But this period is just the last chu r ch , onto a metalled driv e .Fol l o w this drive back to the 25 .C a r r y on through the wood.Come to a marked pa r a g r a ph in a story that started in the most distant main road and turn left.Fol l o w the main road back to the junction and turn left. But the Roman chapter is just half the story of this reaches of human preh i s t o r y.It is perhaps ironic that, White Hart pub and turn right for the station. special area .A r ound 1900,beneath the drive of the when taking these photograph s , Ken was standing in

12 13 In 2005, Me d w a y Council bought a ver y special map.It dates from the SpecialSpecial 17th century and is a plan of Whorne's Place - a lost estate on the banks Whorne’s of the Medway.Of the Whorne's Place buildings,on l y a granary convert e d woodlandswoodlands Whorne’s into a house rem a i n s . Glance at any map of this area and you will PlacePlace Stephen Dixon of the Medway qu i c k l y see that Cuxton is a wel l - wo o d e d Arc h i v es and Local Studies parish .Much of this woodland is termed mapmap Ce n t r e tells us more: 'a n c i e n t ' , but what does this mean? "The map was drawn in 1670 by Robert Felgate for the estate "An ancient woodland is one that has own e r ,Sir John Marsham...It is hand-drawn and coloured on existed since at least 1600 AD ,and possibly pa r chment...It is important because it includes a detailed and much longer.Prior to this date,planting of pre s u m a b l y accurate block plan of the buildings of Wh o r n e ' s woodland was ver y uncommon which Pl a c e ,no w sadly lost... suggests that if a wood was present in 1600 it is likel y to have been there for "The estate takes its name from either Sir William Wh o r n e , some time previ o u s l y,and may be a lo r d mayor of London in 1487 or a Robert Whorne of remnant of the original 'wildwood' which about the same date.Be t w een Whorne's day and Marsham's once cover ed most of Britain..." acquisition of the estate it was owned by the Leveson family. Guidelines for Identifying Ancient Woo d l a n d - In 1808 the estate passed into the hands of the earls of leaflet produced by English Nature. Da r n l e y of Cobham Hall and in the 20th century was partl y bro k en up into small parcels of land for residential devel o p m e n t . You can find clues about whether a The date is early for estate plans of the Medway area...The plan woodland is ancient by looking at its ma k es it possible to visualise and understand the geograph y and land pl a n t s .C e r tain plants are known as 'ancient SSSI boundaries Ancient woodland use of the area in the late 17th century prior to the woodland indicators' - if a number of them Parish boundaries modern industrial age." The surviving granary from the can be found in a woo d , that is evi d e n c e rear c.1976 (Dave May). for it being ancient.Local resident Elizabeth Summers rec o r ded a number of these plants in her nature diaries.In May's Woo d A comparison of the plan she rec o r ded wood anemone,ra m s o n s with a modern map reveals a (wild garlic),sa n i c l e ,bl u e b e l l s , and early few surprises.The layout of purple orch i d s . In North Wood she fou n d woodlands is rem a r k a b l y pr i m ro s e s . similar and some field boundaries have not changed Co n s e r vationists reg a r d ancient woo d l a n d in over 400 yea r s . The area as the closest thing to 'natural' woo d l a n d ma r k ed 'The War ren' is still that we have in the managed landscapes of kn o wn by that name.Th e Br i t a i n . Those with rare habitats and plan also shows ancient species are often prot e c t e d . Cuxton is tracks that still exist,in c l u d i n g for tunate in that many of its ancient the route of the North woodlands are part of two Sites of Special Do wns Way.The foo t p a t h Scientific Interest or SSSIs.SSSIs are like the th r ough May's Wood is pr emier league of wild places - the best in rom a n t i c a l l y labelled 'The the country - and protected by law. Way Th r ough the Woo d s ' , while the road which is now The map above shows which woo d l a n d s the A228 is simply called 'The in the Cuxton area are ancient and which Way' . Whorne's Place itself ar e SSSIs. ma y have gon e ,but the land that was the estate has not Ma n y ancient woodlands in Kent have a changed as much as one long history of management by coppicing. would expect. This is the traditional practice of reg u l a r l y cutting small areas of trees down to a The map was purchased by stump and letting them re- g r ow as many Me d w ay Council with thin stems.This provided a ren ew a b l e co n t r ibutions from Cuxton Pari s h so u r ce of wood for a wide range of uses, Council and the Lost including fen c i n g ,f i r ewood and construc- Landscapes Proj e c t . tion materials. Coppicing also benefits wild fl o wer s , butterflies and dormice. The Whorne’s Place map 14 (Medway Archives and Local Studies Centre. Director of Community Services, Medway Council). 15 Contributors We would like to thank the fol l o wing contributors to this booklet (in alphabetical orde r ) : Cobham Ashenbank Management Scheme Cuxton Five-O Club Cuxton Countryside Grou p Stephen Dixon (Medway Arc h i v es and Local Studies Centre) Mr Goddi n g Re v.Roger Knight Ken Law Da ve May Adam Single (Kent County Council Heritage Tea m ) Elizabeth Summers We would also like to express our gratitude to all the other local people who took part in meetings, walks and res e a rc h . This booklet was edited and designed by Clarity Interpretation (01303 249501 clarity.i n t e r p re t a t i o n @ v i r g i n . n e t ) . Useful information This circular route is one of a series of Lost Landscapes Heritage Trails that have been developed in the fol l ow i n g parishes along the North Down s :D e t l i n g ,T h u r n h a m ,H o l l i n g b o u r n e ,Ch a r i n g , Chilham and Charth a m . For further information about Lost Landscapes and walking opportunities along the North Downs Way visit ww w. n a t i o n a l t r a i l . c o. u k / n o rt h d o wns or e-mail north d ow n sw ay @ ke n t . g ov.uk or telephone the Trail Office on 01622 221525. The Countryside Code. Be safe - plan ahead and fol l o w arrows or signs Le a ve gates and prop e r ty as you find them Pr otect plants and animals and take your litter home Keep dogs under close control Consider other people Waym a r k i n g During your walk you will see arrows marking various public rights of way:

M Footpath (on foot only) M Bridleway (on foot,horseback or pedal cycle) M Byway (all traffic) In the Cuxton area you may also see other coloured waym a r k ers (black,br own and green) for some local rou t e s . For a booklet on these routes contact Medway Council (contact details below) and ask about the Circular Wal k s Ar ound Cuxton and Halling booklet. Me d w a y Council has a duty to prot e c t , maintain and rec o r d public rights of way in the Cuxton area . If you encounter any problems on the route please write to Medway Council, De velopment and Envi ro n m e n t De p a rt m e n t ,F r ont Line Task Forc e , Compass Centre,Pem b ro k e,Ch a t h a m , Ken t , ME4 4YH or e-mail cu s t o m e r. s e rv i c e s @ m e d w a y.g ov.uk or telephone 01634 333333.