200 H.P. SENTINEL STEAM LOCOMOTIVE INSTRUCTION MANUAL Preface In the following pages are set forth a considerable amount of information on the technique of driving and maintaining your Sentinel Locomotive to the best advantage. If the instructions and advice given in this book are carefully followed your Sentinel Locomotive will not fail to give good and faithful service and will no doubt earn the affection of its operators and all those concerned with it, as all good machines should. The object of this book is to help all those connected with the locomotive to give it the best possible treatment so that the locomotive may also give its best in return. In order to give operators full advantage of new developments in the locomotive itself or in repair technique or modifications, we propose to send out Service Bulletins from time to time so that everyone may be fully informed of developments. You are cordially invited to write to us if you experience any difficulties in following any of the instructions given in this book or if you require any additional information on subjects not covered. On receipt of your queries we will fully reply to your questions and if it is of general topical interest we will send out a Service Bulletin on the subject raised. By this method we hope to form a fraternity of Sentinel operators. We have kept the size of this book to reasonable proportions so that it can be carried readily in the pocket. In order to achieve this we have not reproduced detailed drawings for each section as this would increase the size of the book considerably. It is intended therefore, to read this book in conjunction with the Spare Parts Book which gives drawings of all the major components of the locomotive. One Spare Parts Book is issued with each Locomotive. It has not been possible to cover many aspects of major overhauls due to the limitation of space. When the time comes for major overhauls to be carried out on the locomotive, please consult the Sales & Service Organisation for Sentinel Locomotives, for advice, service or spares. The address is:- Messrs. Thomas Hill (Rotherham) Limited, Effingham Chambers, Effingham Street, (G.P.0. Box 12.) Rotherham, Yorks. Telephone No. Rotherham 5428 (2 lines).

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CONTENTS.

PREFACE GENERAL INFORMATION AND DIMENSIONS – ‘SENTINEL’ GEARED LOCOMOTIVE. INSTRUCTIONS FOR PUTTING NEW LOCOMOTIVE INTO SERVICE. 1. Fitting Driving and Coupling Chains 2. Initial Steaming of boiler 3. Running Engines and checking Lubrication System SECTION A. PREPARING LOCOMOTIVE FOR USE. 1. Details of routine lubrication and maintenance 2. Recommended Lubricating Oils and Greases. 3. Suitable types of fuel. 4. Notes on water. SECTION B. GENERAL DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS FOR PUTTING THE LOCOMOTIVE INTO AND OUT OF SERVICE. 1. Correction of water Level when steaming up, from cold 2. Starting up the Engines from cold or after standing in excess of one hour. 3. Starting up the Engines after standing in excess of ten minutes but not exceeding one hour. 4. General method of operating Locomotive - Boiler Feed Pump and Injector. 5. Putting Locomotive away. 6. Precautions against frost. SECTION C. DRIVERS CONTROLS. 1. Controls mounted on the Boiler. 2. Other Cab Controls not mounted on the Boiler. 3. Controls outside the Cab. SECTION D. GENERAL TECHNIQUE OF DRIVING A ‘SENTINEL’ LOCOMOTIVE TO THE BEST ADVANTAGE. 1. How to obtain maximum Power with Economy. SECTION E. DETAILED INDIVIDUAL INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE OPERATION OF A NUMBER OF THE COMPONENTS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE. General technique of Firing including references on the use of:- 1. Blower. 2. Extra Top Air Control. 3. Fire Hole Door. 4. Ashpan Dropping Lever. 5. Use and size of Blast Nozzles. 6. Chimney Damper. 7. Use of Boiler Feed Pump and Injectors to reduce Boiler Pressure with reference to the amount of water to keep in the Boiler. (i) General Instructions on the use of Boiler Feed Pump. (ii) Method of operating Injector. 8. Method of operating Cut Off and Direction Lever (Reversing Lever). 9. Technique of Gear changing:- Method of engaging a Gear.

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Method of disengaging a Gear. 10. Sanding. SECTION F. HINTS ON MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS - ENGINE. 1. Engine Valve clearance and construction of adjustment components. 2. Method of checking Valve clearances. 3. Method of adjusting Valve clearances. 4. Method of removing a Push Rod. 5. Method of replacing a Push Rod. 5. Difficulties - Access to Valve Adjusters on number 2 cylinder. 7. Grinding of Engine Valves and cutting Valve Seats. B. Cam Follower Packings. 9. Method of timing the Engines (Valve Timing). 10. Fitting and replacement of Piston Rings. 11. Repacking of Piston Glands. SECTION G. HINTS ON MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS - PUMPS. 1. Cylinder Lubricator. 2. Data on Rotoplunge Oil Pump and description of its construction. 3. Maintenance Points on the Rotoplunge Oil Pump. 4. Method of dismantling Rotoplunge Pump. 5. Method of re-assembling Rotoplunge Pump. 6. Engine Lubrication System. 7. Data on and description of Boiler Feed Pump. 8. Method of adjusting Boiler Feed Pump Valve Gear. SECTION H. HINTS ON MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS - BOILER & AUXILIARIES. 1. Method of fitting a Water Gauge Glass and additional information. 2. Tightening down of Boiler and the fitting of the Boiler Top and Bottom Joint Rings. 3. Notes on Boiler Fusible Plug. 4. Notes on Cleaning of Blast Nozzles and Blower Rings and Blast Pipe Elbow. 5. Washout and cleaning of Boiler. 6. Use of Soot Blower. SECTION J. HINTS ON MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS - AXLES & RUNNING GEAR. 1. Method of adjusting Axles. 2. Notes on Driving Chain adjustment. 3. Method of adjusting Brakes. SECTION K. FAULT LOCATION AND REMEDIES. The following faults are dealt with:- 1. Difficulty in maintaining adequate boiler pressure . Possible causes referred to:- (i) Pancake of Clinker on Fire Bars. (ii) Poor quality fuel. (iii) Tube Stack and Superheater blocked with soot. 1a. Engines using an excessive quantity of steam caused by:-

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(i) Incorrect Engine Valve clearances. (ii) Sticking Engine Valves. (iii) Release Valve stuck open. 2. Power falling off from Engines when Steam Pressure is maintained. Possible causes referred to:- (i) Incorrect Engine Valve clearances. (ii) Sticking Valves. (iii) Piston Rod Steam Packings blowing. (iv) Worn Piston Rings. (v) Worn Valve Faces and Seats. (vi) Badly worn Valve Guides and Valve Stems. (vii) Faulty Cylinder Release Valves. 3. Lack of Oil Pressure etc. Possible causes referred to:- (i) Water in Sump Oil. (ii) Dirty Sump Filter. (iii) Sucking of air on suction side of Rotoplunge Oil Pump. (iv) Excessive Engine oil consumption (Crankcase). 4. Boiler Troubles. Possible causes referred to:- (i) Boiler Priming. (ii) Blow of Steam inside Boiler Fire-Box caused by one of the following:- a) Blow of steam past Holding-down Studs. b) Blow of steam from Top or Bottom Joint Rings. c) Burst Boiler tube. d) Burst Superheater Coil. SECTION L. TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES . SECTION M. HAULAGE CAPACITY AND SPEED TABLES OF LOCOMOTIVE .

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GENERAL INFORMATION AND DIMENSIONS - 200 HP ‘SENTINEL’ LOCOMOTIVE A. GENERAL INFORMATION 1. Data of commencement of production and type. DE/DG 1951 2. Wheel Arrangement: 0-4-0 3. Minimum Curve Radius: 60ft. 4. Weight in working order: 34 tons. 5. a) Tractive effort – Low gear: 0-2½ mph. 20,630 lbs. Adhesive limit. b) Tractive effort – High gear: 0-2½ mph. 9,650 lbs. c) Gear ratios – high gear – 2.355/1 low gear – 5.928/1 6. Fuel Bunker Capacity: 10/12 cwts. of COAL ACCORDING TO CLASS OF FUEL USED. 7. Water Tank Capacity: 660 gallons. 8. Engine crankcase oil capacity: 5 gallons in each of 2 engines. 9. Reduction gear case oil capacity:  High gear – 5 galls  Low gear – 5 galls. 10. Delvac Cylinder Lubricator Oil Pump Container Capacity: 3 pints. 11. Chain Lubricators: a) Adjustable (Individual): Drip feed containers (2) – Single Drip Feed 1 pint each. (Alternatively on later models) Double Drip Feed 2 pints. b) Cylindrical Single Container with wick feeds (1) 1½ gls. 12. Axle boxes: Armstrong oilers (4) – 3 pints each to level pin. 13. Mechanical Lubricator For Worthington Boiler Feed Pump: 2 pints, initial filling.

Supplied by Andy Chapman of Somerset & Dorset Railway Heritage Trust, Midsomer Norton for HRA Training, & Education Committee 01.08.2017 - Further information can be obtained from Andy Chapman at [email protected]

Page 6 B. DIMENSIONS and DATA Length over headstocks 20’ 11” Length over buffers 23’ 8” Width overall 8’ 0” Height overall, with spark arrester, internal type 10’ 3¾” Gauge 4’ 8½” Wheelbase (nominal) 5’ 6” Journal size 10” x 5½” Wheel diameter on tread 38” ENGINES: “Sentinel” vertical enclosed high-speed (Two fitted) 2 cylinder double acting, with reduction gear. Bore and stroke 6¾” x 9” Normal max RPM 500 Absolute max RPM 600 Max BHP (at 275 psi) 105 per engine Valve operating gear Camshaft Valve type Poppet Cut-offs (in each direction) approx 75% and 40% Weight of one engine 21 cwts. 1 qr. BOILER: “Sentinel” vertical water-tube type. Classification VL/43/C/275 Rated evap. (lbs/hour) 4300 Water capacity to top of gauge glass 213 gallons Weight of boiler (shell and firebox only without 2T 17 cwts. mountings and superheater coil) Used with Good coal of 13500 B.TH/U/lb. Working pressure (psi) 275 Heating surfaces (Sq. ft.) Tubes 92.4 Firebox 51.0 Superheater 41.2 Grate area (Sq. ft.) 6.5 Grates Plain

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR PUTTING A NEW LOCOMOTIVE INTO SERVICE. 1. FITTING OF DRIVING AND COUPLING CHAINS. The procedure outlined below is recommended from the point of view of simplicity and ease of handling. This method requires two men. Set the locomotive in position, preferably over a pit if one is available. Place scotches under the wheels and release hand brake to the 'off’ position. Before the chains can be fitted, the brake gear must be loosened off as per instructions below. Disconnect the brake gear on both sides of the locomotive by removing the pins (Part No. 453 H & A) which fit into the master adjusting holes in the brake adjusting palms (Part No. 424.B see sectioned List of Parts). This will allow the assembly of brake side rods, hangers and blocks to be moved independently of the weighshaft and will permit the forward swing of the brake hangers to allow forward movement of the wheels and axles during chain fitting. A jack should now be placed under the front of the locomotive in order to ease the weight off the leading axle. This is done to facilitate easy rotation of the wheels during the fitting and tightening of the chains. In order to fit the chains it is necessary to alter the locomotive wheel-base as per instructions below. To fit the COUPLING CHAIN, proceed as follows:- Loosen the locknuts and pinch bolts on the four radius rods which locate the axle boxes to the frame. Remove the scotches from the leading wheels (ensuring that the rear wheels are scotched front and rear) and draw the front axle back a distance of approximately 1½” by turning the two front radius rods so as to cause them to screw further into their sockets on the axle boxes. Remove the scotches from the rear wheels and place them under the front and rear of the front wheels and move the rear axle forward by means of rotating the radius rods. The rear axle should be moved forward approximately 1½” but care must be taken to ensure that the radius rods are not screwed right out of their sockets on the axle boxes. By moving the axles in the manner stated, the wheelbase of the locomotive will be decreased - this will assist in the fitting of the coupling chain. The coupling chain is now manoeuvred underneath the locomotive and should be stretched out on the edge of the pit immediately below the coupling sprockets (i.e. the sprocket on the rear axle and the sprocket nearest to the L.H. wheel on the front axle). Stretch the chain out so that it lies with its centre approximately central between the two axles and then loop the two ends of the chain back towards the centre until they meet. The chain fitting slipper is now placed on the coupling sprocket on the front axle and the front end of the chain is passed up and over the slipper, being fed towards the front of the locomotive. The loose end is left hanging down from the front of the sprocket and the slipper is withdrawn from under the chain round the rear of the sprocket. Set the slipper on the rear axle sprocket and pass the other end of the chain over it towards the rear of the locomotive. Pull down hard on this end to reduce the sag of the chain round the front of the rear sprocket. The two loose ends are now hanging free from their respective sprockets with the least possible sag in the chain. These ends must be joined and for this purpose a supply of wooden packing blocks will be required. These blocks should be so arranged as to form a support upon which the two loose ends can be laid out for joining, thus making it unnecessary to support the chain by hand. The packing should be built up high enough to ensure that there is no sag in the two halves of the chain, thus bringing the ends as close together as possible. If it is found that the ends are not close enough for the insertion of the coupling link, draw the axles still closer together by the method already outlined. Once the coupling chain has been joined, draw the leading axle forward again to facilitate the fitting of the driving chains. To fit the driving (PRIMARY) chains, proceed as follows:- First lay a number of stout planks across the pit directly under the countershaft which carries the driving sprockets. The two chains are manoeuvred on to these planks and are then carefully stacked in layer fashion in 12 link lengths across the planks, one chain in line with each sprocket, with a loose end at the top and so stacked that each layer can follow on easily as it is fed up and over the sprocket. At this stage, it becomes necessary to prevent the possibility of the countershaft rotating. This might be caused, by the weight of the chains hanging from the shaft. To do this, try to engage either HIGH or LOW GEAR by means of the brass gear operating handle in the locomotive cab. (See Section C item 15). If neither gear can be engaged by direct movement of the handle, do not try to move the countershaft or the engines. The alternative is to prevent the countershaft rotating by making a secure rope lashing between one of the countershaft sprocket wheels and the adjacent engine steady plate situated overhead. The countershaft having been secured, the two chains may now be fitted. Fit the chain slipper over one of the countershaft sprockets and pass the adjacent chain up from below and over it pulling the end down until the chain hangs with about 1/3rd of its length to the front of the

Page 8 sprocket and the rest hanging at the rear. This setting allows for the two ends to be subsequently brought together in an easy position for coupling up. Slide the slipper out from under the chain round the rear of the sprocket. If the countershaft has been made secure by the rope method, it is now necessary to transfer this lashing from one sprocket to the other in order to facilitate the fitting of the chain to the other sprocket. It is advisable to hold firmly to the chain already fitted, whilst the lashing is removed from the shaft, to ensure that the shaft does not rotate under the weight of the chain, thus causing the chain to fall clear of the shaft. When the shaft has been made secure again, the other chain may now be fitted. This is done in exactly the same manner as for the first, leaving 1/3rd of the chain hanging from the front of the sprocket as before. The slipper having been removed from under the chain, the two driving chains are ready for passing over the driving sprockets on the leading axle prior to coupling up. Care must be taken to check that there are the same number of links in each chain between the countershaft sprocket and the axle sprocket. In cases where ‘matched’ chains are fitted, it is absolutely essential that the matched links of each chain coincide exactly with one another for position. The Index links are finished bright and have an arrow marked on them. The best method of locating them in their correct positions is to set them over corresponding teeth on their relative sprockets. The chains, having been coupled and the links properly secured, the leading axle should now be drawn back to give the correct tension to the driving (primary) chains. The trailing axle must then be similarly set to give correct tension in coupling chain. Full details for setting the alignment of the axles and adjusting the brakes are given in Section J of this manual. Before brake adjustments can be carried out, the two pins (Part Nos. 453/H & A) must of course be replaced. NOTE: A chain slipper is supplied with each locomotive but, should this item not be available, six pieces of 1¼” - 1½” tubing approximately 7” long should be obtained. The tubes are fitted across the six teeth adjacent to the crown of the sprocket involved and the chain can be fed over the teeth quite easily, the tubes being pushed out from under the chain after the operation has been completed. 2. INITIAL STEAMING OF BOILER. a) Check that there is water in the boiler (¼ to ½ depth of water showing in the gauge glass is sufficient for lighting up). If there is no water in the boiler: - b) Check that the boiler blow down cock is closed; its spindle projects through the footplate close to the boiler (see Section C item 13). Turn clockwise to close valve. Check that the four washout plugs in the boiler base are secure. Remove the two brass filling plugs, one from either side of the boiler shell in the cab and fill boiler up to ¼ to ½ depth in gauge glass. Replace filling plugs. If there is water in the boiler but it is not showing in the gauge glass, remove filling plug and top up, as above. c) Check that the water tank drain cock is closed and then fill tank (Drain Cock is situated under tank R.H. side of locomotive). Open shut off cocks on tank filter box to allow water to run to Boiler Feed Pump and Injector. (See Section C item 24 for details of the tank filter). d) Check that the steam valve to the pressure gauge is open. This valve is located on the side of the boiler adjacent to the safety valves. All other steam valves should be closed. (See Section C Driver’s Controls). e) Check that the chimney damper is open. f) Fire the boiler, using paraffin waste and dry wood to start the fire. With a boiler which has not been under steam for some time, as with a new locomotive just delivered, it is advisable to raise steam slowly and therefore the use of live fire for lighting up is not recommended. It will be noticed that the water level rises considerably as the boiler becomes warm and it is quite possible that the gauge glass may be showing full before there is any pressure registered on the steam gauge. In this case, the water level should be reduced by opening the blow down cock draining the water down to ¼ to ½ level in the gauge glass. This process may have to be repeated as the pressure rises but once pressure has passed the 50 lb. per sq. in. mark, only drain the boiler by 1/3rd gauge glass at a time thus avoiding any rapid expansion which might otherwise take place. g) As pressure rises, check washout and filling plugs for steam leakage. 3. RUNNING ENGINES AND CHECKING LUBRICATION SYSTEM. When steam has been raised and the chains are fitted, it will be now be possible to run the engine prior to taking the locomotive out into service.

Page 9 a) Make a thorough check of the engine lubrication system (see Section A items 1, 2, 4 and 5) and, in addition, add 1 qt. of crankcase oil into the camshaft control box filler on each engine. (Check all other oiling points before taking locomotive out into service). There is one crankcase dipstick to each engine, that for the leading engine is mounted at the extreme front of its engine and that for the second engine at the extreme rear. Each dipstick can be identified by its small knurled steel cap screwed down on to a small vertical steel tube projecting upwards from the base of the main engine casing. The knurled cap should be screwed off the top of the tube and it will be found that the dipstick projects from inside the cap down the tube and into the crankcase. Remove the dipstick and wipe away any oil that may be on it; it will now be observed that the lower end of the dipstick is marked to give the oil level. The correct procedure for taking a dipstick reading is to screw the dipstick out of its tube, wipe it clean, insert in the tube again and screw the cap right down as far as it will go. Screw the cap off again and examine the lower end of the dipstick to find the actual oil level by noting how far up the dipstick the oil film terminates. As stated in Section A, the oil level on the dipsticks should be between half an inch either side of the ‘Full’ mark. Should it be necessary to fill the crankcase, there is a filling column located on each engine. This column consists of a steel tube covered by a screwed cap. On the leading engine, the column is located beside the R.H. Cylinder and, on the rear engine, beside the L.H. Cylinder, each column being screwed into the top of the timing case of its respective engine. To fill the crankcase, remove the cap from the top of the column and pour Crankcase Oil down through the filter provided in the neck of each column. The Cylinder Lubricator (Delvac Mechanical Lubricator) is mounted under the engine casing, beside the engines, on the left hand side of the locomotive. This lubricator should be filled with Cylinder Oil according to the instructions in Section A. The gear case oil levels are checked by means of two brass cocks, mounted one to each gear case. The gear cases themselves protrude below the main frames of the locomotive immediately in front of the leading wheels, one on either side of the locomotive. The cocks can be plainly seen projecting outwards from a point near the bottom of each gear case. Having checked the lubrication, the engines may now be run. The procedure given below must be followed correctly. Engines out of gear. Reversing lever in centre position. Drain valve open. Gently open regulator and blow steam through the engines for 3 - 5 minutes. Leave regulator slightly open and move reversing lever quickly backwards and forwards at least six times. Close the regulator and close the regulator stop valve. Make sure that there is no steam in the main steam pipes by moving the regulator handle to ‘Release’ position (see Section C item 1) and remove the oil plugs situated on each of the two main steam pipes. These two plugs are plainly visible being 9/16" spanner fitting steel hexagons screwed into each main steam pipe between where the steam pipe leaves the regulator and where it passes under the water gauge columns on each side of the boiler. About ¼ pint of Cylinder Oil should be introduced into each steam pipe through these plug holes, the plugs should be replaced and tightened securely. Open the regulator stop valve. Place the reversing lever in either the ‘Forward’ or ‘Reverse’ Start position, open the regulator gently and allow the engines to run slowly for approximately fifteen minutes. Check that the oil pressure gauges on either side of the steam pressure gauge are registering 30/40 lbs. per sq. in. and then follow the instructions given in Section B. It will be noted that the procedure given above is almost identical to that laid out in section B except for the introduction of Cylinder Oil into the main steam pipes. This is done because the new locomotive has been standing for some time and extra lubrication is required. NOTE: It is always a good policy to prime the engines with oil down the main steam pipes after the locomotive has been standing for some time.

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DRIVERS OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR 200 H.P. SENTINEL LOCOMOTIVES. (Including additional information for Driver/Fitters) SECTION A. PREPARING LOCOMOTIVE FOR USE. 1. DETAILS OF ROUTINE LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE. Before commencing work with your Sentinel locomotive, always carry out the following daily checks on the major oiling points on the locomotive as given in items 1 to 6, Make a habit of carrying out the other items of daily, weekly and monthly maintenance at their appropriate times. Most of the other maintenance can be carried out during any spare time while the locomotive is standing or while it is being initially steamed. PREPARATION OF DETAILS. ITEM TYPE OF OIL REMARKS 1. Check Crankcase oil level Crankcase Oil Oil Level to be half an inch either side of ‘Full’ mark on each dipstick (2). Change oil every 1000 working hours or more frequently if an excessive amount of water enters the sump. 2. Check Gear case oil level Crankcase Oil When checking, do not add oil if it runs out of the test cocks on the gear cases. Change oil every 12 months or at the time of the Boiler Inspection. 3. Check Chain Lubrication Crankcase Oil + Run chain lubricator at frequent intervals on paraffin or reclaimed adjustable type feed. Wick type, turn tap ‘ON’ oil. during operation of locomotive. 4. Check Cylinder & Cylinder Oil Fill up to top of Filter at the beginning of each Countershaft Bearing shift, using a clean can. Lubricator (Delvac Pump) 5. Check boiler feed pump Cylinder oil As for item 4 and additionally, at the same lubricator time, drain steam cylinder of water. 6. Check axle box oil level Crankcase oil Fill to level of hinge pin. Change oil and clean Armstrong oil pad every 12 months or at the time of the boiler inspection. Renew Armstrong oiler pads if necessary. It is most important that the cylinder and crankcase oil referred to above should be to Sentinel specification or one of the types specified. See paragraph on ‘Recommended Oils” at the end of this section. Use of thin machine oil (or suitably thinned C.C. oil as suggested) will enable drip feed type lubricators to be set for continuous operation notwithstanding temperature fluctuation of the engine compartment during operating hours. In the case of cylinder oil, it is specially blended to work at the high superheat temperature of approximately 700oF which is the normal superheat temperature of these locomotives and in the case of the Crankcase oil, it is specially blended to allow for rapid water separation from the oil. On no account use oils which do not conform with the maker’s specification. Full specification sent on request.

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7. HAND - LUBRICATION POINTS AND OTHER ITEMS REQUIRING REGULAR ATTENTION. DAILY Oil Brake Block pins. Oil Brake Adjusters on Thread. Oil Handbrake Handle: (a) Top Bearing. (b) Threads for Weighshaft Nut using oiler on base of column. Feed a small quantity of cylinder oil through screw plug hole on Driver’s Brake Valve. Oil connecting links from brake piston to Weighshaft arm. Oil Reverse Lever Quadrant and Pins. Oil Sand Lever and Pins. Oil Fire Door Trunnions. Oil Buffers and Couplings. Clean and Oil Chimney Damper Slide. Blow down Boiler by means of Blow Down Cock. (Handle on floor on Right Hand of Cab). Blow down at a pressure not exceeding 100 lbs. sq. in. Blow down daily or as directed according to the type of water treatment used or according to the particular characteristics of the water being evaporated. DRAINING WATER FROM CRANKCASE Frequently, or daily if possible, open the drain cock under each crankcase and run off all water which may have accumulated. Allow the locomotive to stand as long as possible (not less than 30 minutes) before attempting to drain off water in order to allow the water to separate from the oil. If the locomotive stands for more than eight hours, drain off water before starting engines. WEEKLY Use Soot Blower weekly (or as may be found necessary from working conditions and experience) both from the four top holes in the boiler top plate and from underneath. When internal spark arrestors are fitted, use Soot Blower daily. Wash out Boiler weekly or as directed (see detailed instructions in section F). MONTHLY Clean blast nozzles and elbows (4) as may be found necessary from experience according to working conditions. Change water gauge glass and packings monthly or as may be found necessary from experience. Check piston rod oil and steam gland packings. When ordering new packings, they are described as follows:  Sentinel S.A.E. piston Rod packing Oil End.  Sentinel Copper Braided Piston Rod packings Steam End.  Check Rotoplunge Drive Spindle Packings. Use Crane’s Super Seal S.S.3. When fitting any of the above three, do not over tighten but follow up frequently, especially with regard to the Rotoplunge pump Packings. Clean Oil non-return Valve and Atomiser which is part of the Lubricator Test Cock, (see item 5 Driver's Controls), which is situated on the left hand side of the Stop Valve Chest. Clean monthly or as may be found necessary. THREE Add half pint of crankcase oil into the camshaft control box filler. MONTHLY

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2. RECOMMENDED LUBRICATING OILS & GREASES. Below are given the specifications for the two types of oil employed on Sentinel locomotives. These specifications must be rigidly adhered to in any manufacture of oil employed. CRANKCASE OIL. This oil is blended from refined Petroleum Oils only, without admixture of fatty oils or other compounds not derived from crude petroleum. Properties and Tests. Specific Gravity Max .92 Flash Point, Open Min 430oF Viscosity at 140oF secs 230/295 Redwood No. 1. Viscosity at 200oF secs 75/90 Redwood No. 1. Cold Test Below 35oF Hard Asphalt Nil Emulsion Test (Hershel) When emulsified by mechanically stirring for five minutes with an equal volume of distilled water at 140oF, and kept at that temperature, the oil shall separate (that is, there shall be no continuous layer of emulsion between water and oil) in not more than 45 minutes, the separated water being clear. I CYLINDER OIL This oil must be straight petroleum oil of the filtered type, and no admixture of fatty oil or other compound is admissible. (Compounds find their way into the Crank chamber, become saponified and impair the separation from condensed water). Railcar Type Filtered Oil Specific Gravity .91 Flash Point, Closed 510oF. Min. Viscosity, 140oF. 750 secs. Viscosity, 200oF. 175 secs. Pour Point below 35oF. NOTE: Dark Cylinder Oils ('Steam Refined’ type) have proved unsatisfactory. (It will be observed that within a very narrow margin, this Cylinder Oil is in Group 5 Medium Range of B.S.S. 210-1939 Classification of Lubricating Oils). GREASE LUBRICATION Always use a good quality grease.

3. SUITABLE TYPES OF FUEL. The ‘Sentinel’ is not heavy on fuel and it will operate satisfactorily on a wide range of British coals and cokes provided suitable fire bars and blast nozzles are used. It is good economy to provide the best fuel available to take full advantage of the rapid steaming and economical characteristics of the water tube boiler. It has been found from exhaustive tests over long periods of operation that the 'Sentinel’ fuel consumption will be 50% or less, often only 30%, of the fuel necessary to operate an orthodox steam locomotive of equivalent starting effort. The better the quality of fuel, the more economical the ‘Sentinel’ becomes. The following are suitable ‘normal fuels’ for the ‘Sentinel' locomotives:

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Coals:

Notes: (a) Groups 1 and 2 Bituminous Coals are mainly free burning non-caking to slightly caking and swelling. Calorific values of between 13,500 – 14,670 B.T.U.s/lb. (b) South Wales Groups specified are similar in burning but are less volatile and contain 92 – 94% carbon, requiring a somewhat more intense draught. Calorific values of between 15,250 – 15,200 B.T.U.s/lb. Cokes:

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Manufactured Fuels:

Notes: (a) With these patent fuels, it is usually found desirable to use a 1” or ⅞” blast nozzle in place of the standard 1⅛” - 1¼” dia. nozzles. (b) Standard fire bars are however, quite suitable. (c) These fuels should not be stored in an open heap as they ‘weather’ and deteriorate in composition. Inferior Fuels: The Sentinel locomotives can be made to operate on inferior grades of coal such as high ash content and some high caking varieties, but for these, special fire grate equipment is necessary in which extra wide air spaces and moving bars are provided. If it is desired to operate on such fuels, please refer to the Sales Service Distributors before contemplating such action when proper tests and recommendations can be made.

4. NOTES ON WATER. A considerable amount of the success with which a steam locomotive may be operated depends upon the quality of the water available for supplying to the boiler. The Sentinel Geared Locomotive is no exception to this rule and it is essential that water of a reasonable quality should be available for a comparatively high-pressure, quick-steaming, water-tube boiler such as that fitted to the Sentinel. Good water cannot, of course, enhance the performance of the locomotive beyond the maximum governed by the design but it is only by the use of such water that maximum power, economy and working life can be attained. Poor feed water can be divided into two categories: firstly, that which by its nature attacks the boiler itself, causing corrosion and wasting of the various parts of the boiler, and secondly, that which gives rise to excessive priming, thereby causing loss of efficiency and undue wear upon the engine components. Water conditions vary widely with different localities and each locomotive operator is faced with his particular problems as to the provision of a supply of good feed water. 5. GENERAL CONCLUSIONS. It is not within the province of this manual to discuss the good features and drawbacks of the individual systems of water treatment but further information and advice on this subject will be gladly given on receipt of enquiries.

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SECTION B. GENERAL DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS FOR PUTTING THE LOCOMOTIVE INTO AND OUT SERVICE 1. CORRECTION OF WATER LEVEL WHEN STEAMING UP FROM COLD When the boiler is steaming and the water level rises, it is in order to blow the level down 2/3rds of a glass when pressure is below 50 lbs. When above 50 lbs. only blow down 1/3rd of a glass at time. 2. STARTING UP THE ENGINES FROM COLD OR AFTER STANDING IN EXCESS OF ONE HOUR Open up the following Master Control Valves on boiler:-  Regulator Stop Valve,  Steam Brake Master Valve,  Pump and Injector Master Valve and  Boiler Feed Shut-off valves (2). See Section C Item 12. Set the:  Engines out of gear,  Reversing lever in centre position,  Drain Valve open. Gently open the regulator and blow steam through engines for two or three minutes. Leave the regulator slightly open and move the reversing lever quickly backwards and forwards at least six times. Close regulators, put reversing lever in either ‘Forward’ or ‘Reverse Start’ position. Open the regulator slightly and run engines until the oil pressure reaches 30-40 lb. per sq. in. which is normal working pressure. Set the engines in either ‘High' or ‘Low’ gear as required. Do not close the drain valve until you are sure there is no priming taking place. Check lubricator test cock on regulator at intervals during the day or observe sight feed in cab where fitted. Method of using test cock - see Controls (Section C item 5.) On no account must the engines be run if no oil is being pumped to the test cocks - see Delvac Pump or Sight Feeds. 3. STARTING UP THE ENGINES AFTER STANDING IN EXCESS OF TEN MINUTES BUT NOT EXCEEDING ONE HOUR. Reversing Lever in centre position. (The reversing lever should ALWAYS be left in the centre position when the locomotive is left standing). Open Drain Valve and Blow steam through the engines for twenty seconds by opening the Regulator. Close Drain Valve after locomotive has moved off and when priming has ceased. 4. GENERAL METHOD OF OPERATING LOCOMOTIVE WITH REFERENCE TO BOILER FEED PUMP AND INJECTOR. The locomotive is designed to maintain the water level in the boiler by means of the boiler feed pump. As far as possible, the pump should be set for continuous slow running so that it pumps water into the boiler at the same pace as the boiler water is evaporated. By this means the level is kept constant. The injector is a standby means of filling the boiler which should be used once a day to keep it in order and to test that it is working. 5. PUTTING THE LOCOMOTIVE AWAY. Put locomotive out of gear and reversing lever in centre position. Drain Valve open, Regulator closed, Boiler filled up,

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Handbrake screwed ‘ON’, Driver’s steam brake valve in ‘Off’ position. Damper shut. Close:  Regulator Stop Valve,  Brake Master Shut-off Valve,  Pump and Injector Master Shut-off Valve,  The two Boiler Feed Shut-off Valves. 5. PRECAUTIONS AGAINST FROST. Should it be necessary at any time to leave the locomotive standing ‘Dead’ where it will be exposed to frost, certain precautions must be taken to safeguard the boiler, injector and pump:- Carry out disposal as normally (see ‘putting Locomotive Away’) and in addition:  Drain boiler and tank,  Close tank filter cocks  Open drain cock under filter box  Drain pump steam and water cylinders  Open injector water valve.  Drain gauge glasses.

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SECTION C. DRIVER’S CONTROLS 1. CONTROLS MOUNTED 0N THE BOILER. 1. Regulator valve. Large double handled lever mounted on the regulator valve chest. This lever, when turned anti-clockwise, opens the throttle and in a clockwise direction closes the throttle and if turned further operates the steam release valve. 2. Regulator stop valve. Immediately above the Regulator valve. Screw down clockwise to close. 3. Blower Valve. Right hand side of Regulator valve Chest. 4. Brake Master Shut Off Valve. Left hand side of Regulator Chest. 5. Lubricator Test cock. Left hand side of stop valve chest. Method of using lest cock - when Test cock is NOT being used to test if the lubricator is working and the engines are working, the larger handle MUST be unscrewed to allow the oil to enter the stop valve chest. The small handle is screwed in as far as it will go. To test if oil is being delivered: screw the larger handle in as far as it will go. (This cuts off the steam from the Stop Valve Chest). Partly unscrew small test valve by small handle; if the oil pump is working, oil will be pumped out of the small hole in the test valve by small handle and IMMEDIATELY unscrew large handle fully to allow oil to continue to go to the stop valve chest. If oil does not come when testing, check the Delvac Pump - see paragraph on Delvac Pump and repeat the instructions given above. 6. Brake Control Valve. Can be operated from either side of cab by handles on control Rod. The brakes come 'ON' when the handles are pulled towards the driver. 7. Boiler Feed Pump control Valve. This valve is situated on the right hand side of boiler together with two valves on a combined chest. It is the one nearest the Boiler Feed Pump. 8. Injector Steam Control Valve. This valve is situated nearest the Driver and is one of the three valves mentioned in 7 above. 9. Master Shut Off Valve. This shuts off steam to both the Boiler Feed Pump Control valve and the injector steam control valve and it is situated horizontally between these two valves. 10. Soot Blower control valve. This is situated on the right hand side of boiler and is the nearest valve to the boiler feed pump. There are two connections from this valve, one for attaching the Steam Lance to clean the tubes from the top of the boiler and a second connection to attach the Lance for cleaning the tubes from the bottom of the boiler. Blanking off nuts are fitted to these two connections when not in use. 11. A shut off valve for the Whistle and steam Gauge is provided and is situated near the safety valves. 12. In addition to the valves mentioned above are the Water Gauge Shut Off and Test Cocks and also the two Automatic Boiler Feed Check Valves. The latter are fitted with additional manual shut off valves for use in isolating the check valve chest from the boiler when necessary by the failure of the check valves to seat, causing blow-back of water to the pump and injector and hence to the water tank. 13. Boiler Blow Down Cock. Operating handle protrudes through the footplate on right hand side of the Cab adjacent to the boiler. 14. Extra Top Air Control. This is situated on the right hand side of the Fire Hole Door. 15. The Brass Gear Change Lever is detachable and is made to fit on to the two gear change Extension Spindles situated on top of the Boiler. The spindle on the right hand side of the boiler operates HIGH gear and that on the left hand side LOW gear. A guard is arranged so that either gear has to be put in NEUTRAL before the handle can be moved to operate the other gear.

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2. OTHER CAB CONTROLS NOT MOUNTED ON THE BOILER 16. Cut off and Direction Lever. This is commonly known as the Reversing Lever and will be referred to as such in these instructions to avoid confusion. This is situated on the right hand side of the Cab. For Forward Start, the Lever is pushed as far forward as it will go. For Forward Fast, bring the lever halfway back towards centre. Centre position gives Drain when all the valves are kept open and the engines are inoperative. For Reverse Start, the lever is put as far backwards as it will go. For Reverse Fast put the lever midway between Reverse Start and Drain. 17. Injector Delivery Shut Off Valve. This is the wheel situated on the centre of the Injector which is located on a bracket near the floor on the Right hand side of the Cab. This must be opened to work the Injector. This is only an additional hand operated shut off valve in case the Boiler Automatic Check Valve fails. 18. Injector Water Valve. This is the short lever on the Injector. 19. Drain Valve Lever. This is situated on the Right hand side of the Cab near the Reversing lever and is to allow condensed steam in the form of water to be drained from the engine exhausts and not be taken up the chimney. 20. Sanding Lever. This is situated near the Reversing Lever. By pushing the lever forward it operates the front sand boxes and backwards the rear sand boxes. With the lever in the centre position, no sand falls. 21. The Chimney Damper Lever protrudes through the Cab roof. The damper is closed by pushing the lever forward. 22. The Whistle is blown by pulling the light steel ropes suspended in the cab roof and can be operated from either side of the cab. 23. The Hand Brake is situated in the rear of the cab on the right hand side. The Hand Brake should always be screwed on whenever the locomotive is left standing. 24. Water Tank Shut off Cocks, incorporating tank filters, are situated on the back of the water tank in the cab adjacent to the Boiler Feed Pump. 25. Water Tank Drain Cock. This is situated on the underside of the Water Tank between the Axles on the right hand side of the locomotive. 3. CONTROLS OUTSIDE THE CAB Ashpan Door Dropping lever. This is situated on the Right hand side of the locomotive beneath the Cab.

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SECTION D. GENERAL TECHNIQUE OF DRIVING A SENTINEL LOCOMOTIVE TO THE BEST ADVANTAGE 1. HOW TO OBTAIN THE MAXIMUM ECONOMY & POWER The Sentinel locomotive is designed to give the greatest possible economy in both fuel and water consumption and the best possible weight/adhesion ratio. It is possible for a Sentinel Locomotive to burn only a third of the quantity of fuel of an orthodox locomotive whilst operating on exactly the same shunting duties. To achieve this, the driver must keep the following ideas in mind. The greatest economy is achieved in both fuel and water consumption when the locomotive is run in High Gear and with the Cut Off and Direction Lever in the Fast position. However, this must not be done at the expense of having the engines labouring, vibrating or stalling. (The locomotive must always be started with the Cut Off lever in the 'Start' position). Maximum power is achieved by the locomotive running in Low Gear and the Cut Off and Direction Lever in the 'Start' position, but this is a wasteful way of using the locomotive unless the maximum slow speed pulling power is required from the locomotive. Much of the skill in driving is to use the locomotive with the correct gear and cut off for the particular circumstances under which the locomotive is working. Both the above points must be borne in mind when deciding which is the best and correct Gear and Cut Off to operate in. It is equally important to try and keep the Boiler Pressure to as near 275 lbs. per sq. in. as possible. Do not let the steam pressure fall below 220 lbs. per sq. in. The water level should be kept between one third to three quarters full on the gauge glass. Try and maintain the water in the gauge glass at the half full position by the continuous slow operation of the Boiler Feed Pump. (See Section F under Boiler Feed Pump). If, in addition to the points mentioned above, the fire is properly stoked so that fuel is not wasted in the form of excessive smoke or that the fire is unnecessarily big (deep), then the economy referred to in the first paragraph will be achieved. Always try to keep a bright clean fire. This concludes the general technique of driving a locomotive. Given below is a more detailed account of certain aspects of driving.

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SECTION E. DETAILED INDIVIDUAL INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE OPERATION OF A NUMBER OF THE COMPONENTS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS OF FIRING The two basic rules of firing the locomotive are as follows:- Firstly add fuel to the fire frequently but NOT in large quantities. Do not normally put on more than four shovels full at one time. It will normally be found that frequent light firing will maintain a full head of steam and a bright fire. Secondly, do not fill the fire grate higher than two inches below the bottom of the fire hole door ring. If you have a bright red fire to within two inches below the fire hole door ring and the locomotive will not maintain or make its steam, DO NOT increase the size of the fire. Some factor other than the fire will be the cause of the trouble and should be traced immediately - see paragraph on fault finding. 1. When firing up from cold, as soon as the Boiler starts to make steam, assist the fire by using the BLOWER; this will reduce steam raising time considerably. The Blower can also be used in assisting to pull the fire up after fresh fuel has been put on a rather dead fire. 2. If the fire is smoking excessively, this may be lessened by making use of the EXTRA TOP AIR CONTROL; this will specially apply when the fire bars are inclined to be blocked and as the top of the fire may be suffering from air starvation. Opening the FIRE HOLE DOOR will achieve the same thing in a more drastic form but this is in general a bad practice. Remember that if an excessive amount of top air is taken through the fire hole door and up the chimney, it will reduce the amount of draught passing through the fire which will tend to make it go dead. 3. Also, by leaving the FIRE HOLE DOOR open, it draws in cold air which is taken across the tubes and causes uneven expansion and contraction. 4. A section of the Ashpan can be lowered by the ASHPAN DROPPING LEVER. This is, basically-l-y, to allow easy access for raking out the Ashpan but can be used as an extra bottom air control when bad fuel is encountered. 5. To obtain the best results with the fire and from the locomotive, it is essential that the correct size of BLAST NOZZLE should be used to suit the particular fuel. In general, with a poor fuel, a strong blast is necessary in order to maintain a good bright fire. To create a strong blast, a small sized blast nozzle is required. This, however, creates a considerable back pressure in the engine exhausts and thus reduces the performance of the engines. Therefore, it is undesirable to fit an unnecessarily small blast nozzle. In addition, too small a Blast Nozzle creates too fierce a heat on the bottom boiler tubes and burns fuel unnecessarily; it also takes a lot of ash and sparks up the chimney which the spark arrestor will be unable to cope with. The normal standard size of BLAST NOZZLE is 1.1/8” diameter; other standard sizes are 7/8", 1" and 1.1/4". Please consult Messrs. Thomas Hill (Rotherham) Ltd., if further advice is desired on this subject. Remember, if the Blast Nozzles and Elbows are not cleaned regularly the locomotive will suffer the same troubles as referred to above as though too small a Blast nozzle had been fitted. 6. If the locomotive has to stand for a period between hauls the correct way of keeping the steam pressure down is to close the EXTRA TOP AIR CONTROL and raise the Ashpan flap by the Ashpan Dropping Lever. If already in the dropped position, shut the CHIMNEY DAMPER. Never attempt to run the locomotive with the CHIMNEY DAMPER shut as it prevents the passage of the exhaust steam. 7. Pressure can also be disposed of to some extent by using the BOILER FEED PUMP or INJECTOR. Do not fill the Boiler to more than 7/8 of a glass full for this purpose (with the locomotive standing level). For normal working, do not work with the gauge glass more than half full (with the locomotive working on the level).

7(i). GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS ON THE USE OF THE BOILER FEED PUMP The locomotive is designed to maintain the water level in the boiler by means of the Boiler Feed Pump. The Injector is there as a secondary means of filling the boiler in case the Feed Pump should fail. The correct way of using the Boiler Feed Pump, when the locomotive is working under heavy working conditions, is to keep the pump operating continuously but very slowly. It should be set as far as possible to work so that it pumps water into the boiler at the same speed as the boiler evaporates it; by this means the water level is kept constant. Under the conditions mentioned above, it is definitely

Page 21 bad driving to have the pump working hard intermittently with considerable periods in which the pump is not working at all. See also details in Section G, Boiler Feed Pump.

7(ii). METHOD OF OPERATING INJECTOR The Injector is a stand-by means of filling the boiler and should be used once a day to keep it in working order. It is good practice to fill the boiler up with it each time the locomotive is put away in the shed. Method of operating the Injector is as follows: 1. Open the Injector Shut off valve. 2. Open the Injector Water Valve. 3. Open the Injector Steam Control Valve slightly and wait for the Injector to pick up water, then open the valve fully. If the overflow is not 'dry', gradually close the water valve until it becomes 'dry'; the injector is then at work. If the Injector should for any reason 'throw off' when working, it will automatically restart without attention. It may at times be necessary for the water valve to be opened fully until it picks up its water again after which the water valve can be partially closed to its previous position. To shut off the Injector, simply shut the steam control valve and then the Injector Water Valve. 4. Close the Injector Shut Off Valve.

8. METHOD OF CORRECTLY OPERATING CUT OFF AND DIRECTION LEVER (REVERSING LEVER) The general principles involved in the correct use of the Cut Off and Gears is described in the paragraph headed 'How to obtain maximum economy and power' and the method of engaging the gears is described in the paragraph on Gear Changing. lf any difficulty is encountered in selecting the correct Cut Off by moving the Reversing Lever, turn the Regulator Handle clockwise as far as it will go. This automatically opens the Steam Release Valve and releases the steam trapped between the Boiler and the Engines. After this steam is released, no difficulty will be experienced in operating the Reversing Lever. Steam is admitted to the cylinders in Starting Cut Off for approximately 75% and in Fast Cut Off for approximately 40% of the piston travel per working stroke. Do not keep the locomotive in Starting Cut Off for longer than absolutely necessary. Do not exceed 200 r.p.m. with the Reversing Lever in the 'Start' position i.e. 4-5 m.p.h. in Low Gear, 9-10 m.p.h. in High Gear.

9. TECHNIQUE OF GEAR CHANGING To change gear the, following procedure must be adhered to. The locomotive MUST be stationary before attempting to change or engage the gears. If the locomotive is already out of gear, proceed as per instructions 'To engage a Gear'. If it already is in gear, proceed as per instructions 'To Disengage a Gear' and, when Neutral is obtained, follow the instructions 'To Engage a Gear'. METHOD OF ENGAGING A GEAR Fit the brass detachable gear lever handle to the appropriate square steel shaft on the boiler top. The right hand shaft operates High Gear and left hand shaft Low Gear. Pull the lever gently downwards. If the gear will not engage, fully disengage by pulling lever up. Put the reversing lever into “Forward Start” position and run the engines slowly for approximately three seconds, shut the Regulator and then attempt to gently engage the gear again just as the engines are ceasing to rotate. Repeat as necessary until the gear engages. If the gear only partly engages, move the reversing lever backwards and forwards with the regulator closed (this will remove the pressure off the gear teeth) whilst maintaining a gentle pressure on the

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Gear Lever. The gear will then fully engage. Do not attempt to move the locomotive until the gear is fully engaged. METHOD OF DISENGAGING A GEAR To take the locomotive out of gear, i.e. to put it in Neutral, the locomotive MUST be stationary. The Regulator should be fully closed and the Reversing lever put into the centre Drain position. The gear lever should then be moved upwards to vertical position. If any difficulty is encountered, continue to push the Gear Lever towards the Neutral position and, at the same time, move the Reversing Lever backwards and forwards with the Regulator closed. If this should fail to release the gear, do the same as before but just very slightly open and quickly close the Regulator; this will remove the pressure off the gear teeth and the gear will disengage.

10. SANDING. Make use of the Sanding Gear whenever a slippery rail is encountered. Always try and keep adhesion between the wheels and rails. If the locomotive starts to spin its wheels, ALWAYS CLOSE THE REGULATOR BEFORE DROPPING SAND ON THE RAILS BY OPERATING THE SANDING LEVER IN THE CAB. After dropping the sand on the rails, open the Regulator gently and build up speed gradually. By following this practice, you will greatly increase the life of the transmission.

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SECTION F. HINTS ON MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS - ENGINE 1. ENGINE VALVE CLEARANCES AND CONSTRUCTION OF ADJUSTMENT COMPONENTS The Engine Valve Clearance should be set at:  Inlet .008"  Exhaust .008" The method of adjusting the Valves is described after a brief description of the construction of the Valve adjustment Components. Observation of the valve arrangement will disclose that the Valve Stem is threaded at its lower end and on to this threaded portion, a combined 'Valve Spring Seat and adjuster' is screwed. The valve clearance depends on the relative position of the adjuster on the threaded portion of the valve stem. The adjuster will be seen to comprise a split collet of slightly conical shape on the externally threaded portion on which is carried a 5/8" locknut. The lower body of the adjuster is also a hexagonal 5/8" spanner fitting. It will be observed that there are two holes drilled in the flats of the hexagon through which can be seen the upper tip of the push rod. This is the point where the clearance is effected and tested for by means of a feeler gauge. Further observation will disclose that the valve stem itself carries two parallel flats immediately above its threaded portion and which will be seen just below the lower extremity of the cast iron valve guide through the lower coils of the valve spring. A 3/16" thin open ended spanner is required to fit the flats on the valve stem. The following tools will be required to carry out the adjustment:  One 3/16" open ended thin spanner.  Two open ended 5/8" spanners of heavy type but not too thick in the jaws.

2. METHOD OF CHECKING VALVE CLEARANCES. Put the engines into Neutral Gear (if there is any steam pressure in the boiler, fully close the Regulator and screw down the Regulator Stop Valve as a further precaution), then put the Reversing Lever in the 'Forward Start' position. Before adjusting the valve clearance, it is necessary to check their existing clearances. This is accomplished as follows: Turn the engines by means of the Crankshaft Extension which protrudes through the chassis frame. Turn the engines as follows: (a) Leading engine, anti-clockwise) Both engines being viewed from their respective timing cases. (b) Trailing engine, clockwise ) It is absolutely essential that when checking the valve clearances, the operating cam on the camshaft should allow the Can Follower to fall to its lowest working position so that the possibility of the valve being slightly held open does not occur. Having made sure that the Valve Cam Follower is in the fully closed position as per the instructions given above, proceed to check the clearances as follows :- Insert an .008" feeler through the hole in the lower hexagon of the Valve Adjuster (see description previously given on the construction of the Valve adjustment components) and, if the clearance is correct, the feeler gauge will give a rather tight sliding fit between the push rod tip and the Adjuster Bearing face. It should be possible to spin the push rod between the first finger and thumb with the feeler gauge removed and possible to turn the push rod with finger and thumb whilst feeler gauge is inserted.

3. METHOD OF ADJUSTING VALVE CLEARANCES (a) Using two 5/8” spanners, place one on the lower hexagon of the valve adjuster and the other on the locknut above. Unlock the locknut and slacken off two or three complete turns. (b) Take the thin 3/16” spanner and place it on the flats provided on the valve stem.

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(c) With the valve held by (b) above, turn the body of the adjuster so as to adjust the clearance, i.e. to increase clearance screw the adjuster further up the valve stem; to reduce clearance, screw the adjuster down the valve stem. (If the locknut has been sufficiently released, it is possible to do the adjustments (c) without using the 5/8” spanner on the adjuster hexagon). (d) Perform (c) until the feeler gauge set for .008” is a nice tight sliding fit between the adjuster bearing face and the tip of the push rod. (e) Having obtained the desired clearance, take the two 5/8” spanners and carefully place on the adjuster Hexagon and locknut respectively and tighten the locknut on to the adjuster taking care to hold the assembly positioned by the spanner on the adjuster hexagon. Lock up tight. (f) Now retest for clearance with the feeler gauge and the clearance should be a tight .008” and it should be found to be possible to spin the push rod between finger and thumb without the feeler gauge inserted. Repeat this procedure with all the valves that require attention. Remember to make sure that each cam follower is right down before making any adjustments. Be quite sure that push rods are free and not gummed up with dirt and burned oil. Also be quite sure the valve is following the rod and not sticking in its guide. It is a good plan to remove the push rods if there is any doubt about either the valves or cam follower sticking and then investigate. Clean before effecting adjustment on a sticking cam follower or valve.

4. METHOD OF REMOVING A PUSH ROD 1. Allow cam follower to return to the fully down position. 2. If the valve is free, it will be found to be possible to lift the valve by lifting the push rod with two hands and lifting the lower end of the push rod clear of the recess in the cam follower. 3. If the valve is sticking, use an ordinary motor vehicLe side-valve valve lifter of suitable size; when the valve has been lifted, the push rod will come out.

5. METHOD OF REPLACING A PUSH ROD 1. Allow cam follower to return to the fully down position. 2. Fit push rod into valve adjuster socket and lift the valve sufficiently by lifting on the push rod so that it can be fitted onto the socket on the cam follower.

6. DIFFICULTIES – ACCESS TO VALVE ADJUSTERS ON NO 2 CYLINDER Some difficulty may be experienced with the top valve No. 2 cylinder in both steam and exhaust valves as the valve chest cap holding down dogs, studs and nuts will restrict access to the adjuster. Remove the two dogs from the top of the lower valve chest in each case. To remove the nut, an 11/16” spanner will be required. After removing nuts and spring washers, the dogs will lift off. Access to the required valve adjuster will now be easy. Replace the dogs making sure the ‘snugs’ register with the recess provided in the valve cap centre.

7. GRINDING IN OF ENGINE VALVES AND CUTTING VALVE SEATS. Before attempting to grind the valves in, it is first necessary to remove them. To remove the valves, either steam or exhaust, remove push rods as per instructions given above. Unlock the locknut on the valve adjuster and then unscrew valve adjuster off the valve stem. If the valve tends to turn with the adjuster proceed as follows: Loosen off the 11/16” nuts holding down the ‘dog’ which secures the steam and exhaust valve caps and remove the cap. (This cap has to be removed to withdraw the valve). This will disclose the valve which has a screwdriver slot in it. Stop the valve rotating by holding it with the screwdriver head in the valve slot and unscrew the adjuster off the valve stem. The valve can then be pushed upwards and out through the top of the valve chest through the aperture which has been uncovered by the removal

Page 25 of the valve caps. Grind the valves in the normal way for poppet valved engines. If the seats are bad, use a valve seat cutter. The seat angle is 45 degrees.

8. CAM FOLLOWER PACKINGS The cam follower guides made provision for the fitting of packings. The object of this is to prevent water, which has condesned, from running down the valve stems, down th epush rods and past the cam followeres in to the sump and thus diluting the lubricating oil. The type of packing used is Zenith 3/16”. These packings should be chanes at each boiler inspections and should be lightly tightended up occasionallly by the gland nut. Do not over-tighten as wit will tend to stop the easy woeking of the valves and prevent the valves being fully closed by the valve springs. To repack the cam followers, proceed as follows:  Remove push rods – see instructions previously given in this.  Remove securing nut holding the locking plate.  Loosen off the galns nut and repack. If the old packin are difficult to remove, remove the cam follower dog which is under the locking plate. The cam follower guide and follower can then be removed complete. This will allow the job to be carried out on the bench which will make it simpler and, at the same time, the cam follower head and the cams on the camshaft can be inspected.

9. METHOD OF TIMING THE ENGINE(S) (VALVE TIMING) The valve timing, once set, will not alter but if it is necessary to dismantle the engine for some reason or other and the valve timing is lost, proceed exactly as per the instructions given. There are a number of different ways that can be employed to ‘time’ these engines. We suggest the following method but it MUST be followed in every detail: In carrying out these adjustments, utilise the top half of No. 1 cylinder, I.E. The cylinder adjacent to the timing case. 1. Move cut off lever to 'forward start ‘position. 2. Remove timing cover. This cover is situation over the timing wheels and includes the oil filler pipe. 3. Remove piston rod gland cover plates. This will expose the piston rod so that the position of the piston in the cylinder can be ascertained. (the piston rod and can be marked with a pencil mark when top dead centre is found. Check this several times my rotating the engine backwards and forwards after the stop dead centre has been approximately located). 4. Turn the engine, by the aid of a small pinch bar in the timing wheels, or by the crankshaft extensions, until the exact top dead centre is found. (See note 3). The crankshaft MUST be turned anti-clockwise, in the case of the leading engine, or clockwise, in the case of the trailing engine; both engines being viewed from their cases. 5. If the camshafts require turnng, it will be necessary to remove the and plate to allow the camshaft spiders to the become disengaged. In the case of those models which employ the oil pressure pump driven off the camshaft by a chain and sprocket, it is necessary to remove this drive. 6. Before carrying out the following operations, set the appropriate tappets to .005” clearance re No.1 steam and No. 2 exhaust (see nore 12). 7. with the engien at top dead centre, set the steam camshaft with valve just commencing to open. If this cannot be exactly obtained by engaging the timing wheel teeth, an additional finer adjustment can be obtained by loosening off the two nuts which fasten the timing wheel to its camshaft spider. The timing wheel is slotted so that the camshafts can be rotated sufficiently to give any intermediate adjustment which cannot be obtained on the timing wheel teeth. The same thing applies for the exhaust camshaft. 8. (a) As a further check, the steam inlet valve should close 6.11/16” after top dead centre.

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8. (b) This may be checked by removing the top cylinder release valve from the cylinder crown and then inserting a suitable rod to contact the piston head. The rod may then be marked adjacent to the cylinder head to obtain a datum line. Now turn the engine crankshaft in the appropriate direction so that the piston descends the cylinder, the distance of 6.11/16” being measured on the rod. The valve should seat at the moment this piston travel is accomplished. 9. Now turn the engine to bottom dead centre i.e. 2.5/16” after the steam inlet valve has closed and then turn the engine back ½”. Now time the exhaust valve as per instruction 10. Note: it is essential to turn the engine in the same direction as it runs when the locomotive is moving forward (the reversing lever in the ‘Forward Start’ position). 10. The engine has now been turned back ½” as per instruction 9, the exhaust valve should just be commencing to open. 11. As a further check, turn the engine in its direction of rotation for forward movement of the locomotive. The exhaust valve should close 8½” after bottom dead centre i.e. ½” before top dead centre. This may be further checked by the rod method described in paragraph 8(b). 12. Method of identifying valves previously referred to is as follows: Since we have set our steam inlet valve to open at top dead centre (see note 7) it follows that we are using the top half of the cylinder for timing purposes and we must therefore use the valves which operated in the top half of the cylinder. This implies that they will be the first steam and exhaust valves numbered from the timing gear end of the engine operating in the top half of the cylinder. Numbered from the timing gear end of the engine, in actual practice, it will be found to be number one steam valve, number two exhaust valve.

10. FITTING AND REPLACEMENT OF PISTON RINGS New piston rings should be fitted with a minimum gap clearance of .008”. Float in the grooves should be .002”. Oversize rings are available in the following sizes: 1/64”, 1/32” and 1/16”. Replace old rings if the gap exceeds .015”.

11. REPACKING OF PISTON GLANDS There are two separate glands to each piston rod. One gland, adjacent to the cylinder, is the normal steam gland found on every type of steam locomotives. The other is an oil gland situated above the crosshead guide; this gland is provided to prevent crankcase oil under pressure from escaping from the crosshead guides. The steam gland is packed with one ring of soft packing (Part no. 130/1) and four rings of copper braided packing (Part no. 130/5). The oil gland is packed with four oil packing rings (Part no. 5149/D). The actual procedure of repacking the glands should be carried out as below. Remove the aluminium cover from piston rod gland housing (part numbers 6043/A, right hand side of engine; 6043/B left hand side of engine). This piston rod gland housing is located between the crosshead guides and cylinders. When the aluminium cover has been removed, the steam and oil glands will be observed inside of the the gland housing. In order to remove the worn steam packings, it is recommended that these be blown out with steam at full boiler pressure. To remove the old packings, proceed as follows: Slacken the piston glands by loosening the two gland nuts with the half inch double start ring spanner provided in the tool pit. Before removing these nuts from their studs, it is advisable to pack the cavity between the rear of the compartment and the oil gland. This precaution is carried out in case one of the nuts should accidentally drop into the cavity and thereby cause delay by having to be retrieved. When the two nuts have been removed, the gland and the gland bush will drop out and rest upon the top of the oil gland. The packings may now be blown out. To do this, place the reversing lever in the forward start position with the locomotive out of gear; open the regulator valve slowly, allow steam to pass to the cylinders. Providing that the boiler pressure is

Page 27 near 275psi, there should be no difficulty in displacing the packings by this method. Care must be taken to keep away from the immediate vicinity of the glands whilst steam is passing to the cylinders as a sudden blow of steam past the dislodged packings may occur. If, as occasionally happens, the packings fail to blow out by this method, put the locomotive in high gear and apply the handbrake. This will have the effect of raising the cylinder steam pressure nearer to the boiler pressure. An alternative to this is, of course, to allow the locomotive to pull a heavy train; the nearer the locomotive becomes to stalling, the nearer the cylinder pressure will come to equal boiler pressure. The higher the cylinder pressure, the greater the pressure of steam available to blow the old packings out. The method of blowing of the packings out by steam is particularly advocated for the removal of the packings nearest to the cylinder itself but the first one or two packings can be removed manually before commencing to blow the remaining packings out. When it appears that all the packings have been removed, check that no remnants of packing remains at the extreme top end of the stuffing box. The new packing rings may now be fitted. Care must be taken with this process; it should be carried out as follows: Place the ring of soft packing (part number 130/1) round of the piston rod and gently push it up into the stuffing box noting the position of the gap in the ring. Next take the first copper braided ring taking care that there is no damage to any of the braiding. Care must also be taken to maintain the compactness of the braiding at the jaws of the ring. This ring may now be inserted in the stuffing box. In the fitting it round the piston rod, take care to only open the jaws of the ring sufficiently to allow them to just pass round the rod. Every effort should be made to keep these copper braided packings as compact as possible as they are a very close fit in the stuffing box and difficulty will be experienced unless care is taken. Enter the top of the braided ring into the stuffing box checking that the gap in this ring is staggered to the one above. Press the ring up into the stuffing box as far as possible having first put a light smear of oil round the inside of the stuffing box and on the ring. Should the ring be tight entering the stuffing box, this can be overcome by pushing it into place with the gland itself. The gland should be pressed upwards against the gland springs sufficiently to expose the bottom threads of the studs. If this should prove difficult, a piece of 1/16 inch steel plate, bent U-shaped and of sufficient width for the purpose, should be inserted round the piston rod between the steam and oil glands to act as a distance piece. With the steam gland thus held in position, it will be possible to enter the gland nuts onto their studs. By a gently pulling the gland up underneath it, the ring can be pressed up into the stuffing box but care must be taken to avoid trapping the lower edge of of the packing between the edge of the stuffing box and the top outer edge of the gland bush. Once the packing has been pressed home, the other rings may be inserted in a similar fashion. When inserting these rings, check that there are no strands of braid from the previously fitted ring fouling the bell-mouth of the stuffing box, thus hampering easy fitting. When finally tightening the glands, it is important not to over tighten the gland nuts as this will result in the packings spreading too much and cause scouring of the piston rods. Two repack the oil glands, the following procedure is recommended: Remove the gland and gland bush from position and insert a long wood screw of suitable diameter into the worn packings. The wood screw, having been run into the packings, can be used to draw the rings out one by one. When the old rings are removed, their new ones (4 rings (part number 5149/D)) can be fitted on the same lines as previously described for the steam packing. It will be necessary to cut each and packing room before it can be placed oil packing ring before it can be placed round the piston rod. A the razor blade is recommended for this purpose as a very clean cut can easily be made by this means. Note: with regard to the removal of old steam packings, it is found that the method of blowing out is usually successful. Should this method fail, the use of a wood screw (as used in the withdrawal of oil packings) can be resorted to.

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SECTION G HINTS ON MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS – PUMPS 1. CYLINDER LUBRICATOR The Delvac Oil pump as fitted has three separate feeds. One feed lubricates all components which take their steam from the dry side of the Superheater coil. This is achieved by the oil entering the stop valve chest via the lubricator test cock (fully described under item 5 Driver’s Controls) and non-return valve and atomiser. (Both of the latter should be cleaned regularly). Of the other two feeds go to the countershaft bearing bushes, one feed two each side. It is obviously of the greatest importance that the components mentioned above receive their proper lubrication and therefore on no account must the locomotive be run with of the Delvac pump not working. If there is any doubt about the pump not working, check the following: 1. Check that there is cylinder oil in the pump container. 2. Check that the pump drive is operating the ratchet and that the ratchet is turning the pump camshaft. 3. Check that the pump is working by all observing the site feeds and test cock. 4. The Pumps may be operated by the hand primers fitted on top of the pump body by working the priming knobs up and down. If the pump body is full of oil and no oil can be pumped by the hand primers (make sure that the cam on the camshaft is not in such a position as to make the hand primer inoperative), it will probably indicate that the particular pump element requires either a bleeding or cleaning. The elements are self-contained and can be removed separately for cleaning. Try bleeding first. To bleed a pump element, remove screw for hexagon cap which is situated behind the primer on the pump main cover. Having removed the cap or screw, loosen but do not remove the bleed screw or small release valve immediately behind it. If a release valve is fitted, a hexagonal cap will be fitted to accommodate its extra size. Do not alter the setting 1500 psi of the release valve. Pump with hand primers until all the air is expelled and retighten components. In the case of failure of the pump element supplying oil to the engine via the stop valve chest, which may indicate that the non return valve and/or atomiser are carboned up. Check and clean of these two items before attempting to dismantle the pump. If carbon appears to be forming unduly rapidly, check that you are using the correct type of oil (cylinder oil) and if this is found to be correct and up to specification, slightly cut down the output of the pump if the trouble is persistent. This is done as follows: The output of the pump is reduced if the priming knobs are turn clockwise. If have the pump appears to be delivering too little oil but the pump drive is working satisfactorily, the output of the pump can be increased if the priming knobs are turned anti-clockwise. On no account must any attempt be made to alter the output of the pump by altering the adjustment of the rods to the pump ratchet drive. The output of the Delvac pump should be approximately as given in table below. However care must be exercised in judging the size of the droplets in the sight feed glasses as the water tends to magnify the size of the oil drops. The figures quoted are for approximately half engine speed i.e. 6 MPH in low gear and 13 MPH in high gear. Speeds below or in excess of this will alter the output of the pump proportionately.

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2. DATA ON ROTOPLUNGE OIL PUMP AND DESCRIPTION OF ITS GENERAL CONSTRUCTION The locomotive engines are fitted with a forced feed lubrication system to all major components. The detailed layout of the system is given in the paragraph below. The oil is pumped by an automatically reversible rotary plunger pump which is capable of delivering 200 gallons of oil per hour against 50 pounds per square inch at 500 RPM. The pump is constructed as follows: 1. The main moving part of the pump is an integrally cast rotor and shaft. The rotor is approximately 4” in diameter and has two 1½” diameter holes drilled at right angles through it. These accommodate the two double headed pistons (4 pumping piston heads). 2. The two double headed pistons fit into the rotor and the pumping movement of the pistons is imparted to them by means of a four-sided block which fits into the centre section of the pistons. 3. This block has a hole drilled in its centre line into which a pin engages. This pin, eccentrically located and mounted on a movable carrier, creates the pumping action of the pistons. 4. The pumping action of the pump is as follows: The turning action of the rotor uncovers the suction port in the pump body to one of the pistons which is on suction stroke. The rotor then turns 180° so that the piston previously referred to comes opposite the delivery port. The piston, actuated by the eccentrically located pin, is not moving outwards and the oil is thus delivered out through the pump body delivery port. This process is repeated four times per revolution (four pistons in interconnected pairs) of the rotor once the pump has started to work. The pump continues to pump when the engines change direction. This is accomplished automatically by the eccentric pin moving its position as soon as the rotor changes direction. This change of position causes the timing of the movement of the plungers to alter and the pump continues to Supply Oil to the engines irrespective of the direction of rotation. 3. MAINTENANCE POINTS ON THE ROTOPLUNGE OIL PUMP The rotor shaft gland is packed with Crane’s super SS3 packing. It is most important that these packings are kept in good condition and are tightened but not over tightened very regularly. And in Failure to maintain the gland packings can cause of the following troubles: 1. On the older pumps which can be identified as such if there is no external copper pipe to the gland box, a considerable amount of oil will leak away from round the rotor spindle. 2. In on the later type pumps, a copper pipe is fitted to the gland box from the suction side of the pump and all oil entering the gland box is thus taken back to the suction side. If the glands packing is not maintained, air will be drawn between the rotor drive spindle and the packings; this will cause the pump to draw in air and will thus cause loss of oil pressure. 3. During each boiler inspection, the pump should be dismantled and clean – see method of dismantling pump. It will be found on dismantling that there is a chamfer round of the top of the cylinders in the rotor. Should an old type pump the encountered without a chamfer in the cylinder ends, chamfer the edges to give a 1/8” chamfer. The object of the chamfer is as follows: It has been found from experience that when excessive water enters the engine sump, a deposit builds up on the pump cylinder walls. In due course this will cause the pump pistons to seize. If the pump is not kept clean and sufficient deposit is allowed to build up such that the pump does seize up, it will most probably cause the driving spider on the camshaft extension to fracture and this item will have to be renewed before the engine can be used again. This chamfer will enable the deposit to be pushed into it and thus eliminate the possibility of seizure. This deposit does not always take place but it is most important that it should be checked and cleaned off where necessary. No other maintenance is required on these pumps except general cleaning when the pump is dismantled for the chamfer to be cleaned and the previously mentioned attention to gland packing.

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4. METHOD OF DISMANTLING ROTOPLUNGE PUMP 1. Remove chain sprockets on rotor shaft and remove key. 2. Remove the gland nut and packing. 3. Remove back cover off the pump body by removing the eight holding down nuts. The eccentric pin body will probably come away with the back cover. In the case of the old type pumps where no equalising pressure holes are drilled, withdrawal may be difficult owing to the suction effect of the oil in the pump body. In case of difficulty, wash the pump with petrol to remove the oil and the parts will then withdraw. 4. Withdraw the rotor and shaft. 5. The two double headed pistons and block can then be removed from the rotor shaft. The pump is now completely dismantled. 5. METHOD OF RE-ASSEMBLING ROTOPLUNGE PUMP Re-assembly of the pump is the reverse of the above process. In the case of the old type pumps, the eccentric pin body must be fitted into the larger segment cut away in the back of the pump cover. If it is fitted in the smaller segment, the pump will only pump in one direction. This trouble does not occur on the later type pumps as there is only one segment. 6. ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM Oil is taken through a cylindrical gauze filter in the engine sump and is sucked to pump level. Having passed through the pump, the oil is pumped to a distribution point incorporating the pressure relief valve. Oil is then taken by two separate feeds to the crankshaft main bearing bushes and from there by drillings in the crankshaft to the big ends and thence to the crosshead wrist pin by external pipe attached to the connecting rod. Other oil pipes take the oil to the camshafts and timing gears, the latter being taken on the low pressure side of the relief valve. A further pipe takes oil to the oil pressure gauge on the pressure side. The correct working oil pressure is 40 lbs. per square inch hot at 250 RPM. 7. DATA ON AND DESCRIPTION OF BOILER FEED PUMP The locomotive is fitted with a Worthington Simpson simplex vertical boiler feed pump. Have the pump size is 5½ inches by 3½ inches by 7 inches. When the locomotive is working hard in shunting service, the boiler will probably be called upon to evaporate water at a rate of 200 gallons per hour although it is capable of evaporating over double this figure. (Note: the 200 figure had been altered on the original document to 2000 gallons per hour but this does not make sense with the calculated pump stroke rate. So 200 is the likely correct figure). The feed pump delivers water to the boiler at the approximate rate of 600 gallons per hour at 25 double strokes per minute. Therefore the approximate working rate of the pump under heavy shunting conditions would be in the region of eight double strokes per minute i.e. 16 exhaust beats per minute from the pump or approximately one exhaust beat per 4 seconds. It will be found from practical experience that the rate of one exhaust beat of the pump every 4 seconds is about the maximum which is likely to be required under hard working conditions with the locomotive components in good working order. This speed of pumping is the speed needed to keep the boiler level constant. However, under normal conditions, the pump speed required will be found to be about half this figure or even less. The type of pump fitted is specially designed to work with high pressure steam as the only mechanically operated working part of the steam valve gear is the small auxiliary slide valve which is directly connected to the piston rod by means of the valve spindle and connecting arm. The valve is adjustable by altering the setting of the tappets on the valve spindle. This controls the length of the stroke of the pump and is the only adjustment apart from periodic tightening up of and repacking of the glands.

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The following gland packings are used in the boiler feed pump:  Piston Rod Packing (Steam): 5 Rings of ‘Supasca’ 1¾” o/d x 1” i/d x ⅜” thick.  Piston Packing (Water): 4 Rings of Rockhard Packing.  Auxiliary Rod Valve Gland Packing (2 glands): Zenith ¼” sq. x 3¼” long. 8. METHOD OF ADJUSTING BOILER FEED PUMP VALVE GEAR If for any reason the stroke of the pump requires adjusting, the adjustment is done on the valve operating spindle and is carried out as follows: 1. Slacken back the locking screws in the valve spindle link collars to allow them to be adjusted by hand. 2. Adjust the pump with the steam valve slightly open so that the pump is working. If the pump has been dismantled, gently tighten the valve spindle collar before opening the steam valve. If the pump requires a service adjustment after a long period of work, note which valve spindle link collar requires adjustment and adjust accordingly. Items 3 to 9 give the method of adjusting the pump by altering the position of the valve spindle link collars on the valve spindle. 3. If the valve spindle link collars are adjusted IN, the pump stroke will shorten. 4. If the valve spindle link collars are adjusted OUT, the pump stroke will lengthen. 5. If the valve spindle link collars are set too far OUT, the pump stroke will be too long and have the pump will fail to reverse – adjust the appropriate collar IN accordingly. 6. The top collar reverses the piston at the top of its stroke and vice versa. 7. If difficulty is experienced in turning the valve spindle link collars by hand owing to them being under tension, lightly tap the valve spindle in the direction of travel so that the valve spindle link collar loses contact with the tappet but only by a distance approximating to the amount the valve spindle link collar is to be adjusted. 8. If the rod is moved too much when the pump is stationary, it is possible to leave the auxiliary slide valve in a non-starting position. To correct this, close both collars IN two turns until the starting position is again located; the collars can then be adjusted out. Proceed as per previous instructions. 9. When the pump is finally adjusted, retighten the locking screws in the valve spindle link collars. Please note: remember to open the steam cylinder drain cock to drain off water when first warming up the pump.

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SECTION H HINTS ON MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT – BOILER AND AUXILIARIES 1. METHOD OF FITTING A WATER GAUGE GLASS AND ADDITIONAL INFORMATION It is a wise precaution to change the water gauge glasses is mostly. Gauge glasses are cheap and it is an unpleasant experience if they break while the locomotive is under steam. If changed regularly, this should never happen provided they are fitted correctly. Always keep the protector glass fitted in position as a further safety precaution. If a glass should break and the gauge automatic shut off valves fail to close, shut both cocks on top and bottom gauge fittings by hand. Two remove the old gauge glasses proceed as follows: 1. Remove the protector glass complete by unscrewing the knurled screw at the bottom and lifting it clear. 2. Loosen off gauge glass top and bottom gland nuts and remove the horseshoe shaped retaining piece from under the top nut. 3. Remove water gauge body top plug and valve. 4. Remove old gauge glass by gently pushing it up through the plug hole in the top fitting. 5. Remove the top and bottom gland nuts, top and bottom glands and old packings. Before fitting a new gauge glass, make sure that all the faces with which the new packings come into contact are perfectly clean. When fitting a new gauge glass it is most important that the gauge glass is absolutely true in its fittings and that the fittings are parallel and following a common vertical centre line. If it is not, it will leak steam. In order to ascertain that the top and bottom fittings are correctly aligned, proceed as follows: First make sure that the locomotive is standing absolutely level. Attach a small weight to a length of cotton and drop it down the centre of the top fitting. To the other end of the cotton, attach any ⅛” set screw or similar so that it can be placed across the mouth of the top fitting plug hole. If the top and bottom fittings are vertically aligned, the weighted cotton will fall centrally through them both. To fit the new gauge glass, proceed as follows: 1. Gently lower the gauge glass through the top fitting plug hole. Lower it about half way towards the bottom fitting. 2. Then thread the following items on to the gauge glass in the same order as given:  Asbestos packing rings – these are made in pairs and should not be separated (the annular grooves fit face to face).  Top gland and top gland nut.  Bottom gland nuts and bottom gland.  Pair of asbestos hexagon packings. Lower gauge glass into position and insert packings into the bottom and top ferrules. After inserting the packings into the top and bottom ferrules, care must be taken to check that the hexagon-shaped internal bore of each ferrule is located correctly upon its corresponding hexagonal spigot on the water gauge arm. 3. Gently tighten top and bottom glands and nuts – do not over-tighten. 4. Replace valve and top plug. Open gauge cocks and steam and test; slightly retighten gland nuts if the gauge glass shows signs of leaking steam or water round its packings.

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2. TIGHTENING DOWN OF BOILER AND THE FITTING OF TOP AND BOTTOM JOINT RINGS It is essential to keep the cap nuts on the boiler shell tight. This should be done by a periodic check and tightening as necessary. The time between checks will mainly vary according to the length of time that the boiler top and bottom joints have been fitted. We give below the number of times the cap nuts should be tightened and the method which should be adopted when new joint rings have been fitted. It will therefore be necessary to base your maintenance on your particular circumstances taking into account the length of time that joints have been fitted. Not all boilers require the same treatment owing to the very wide range of different operating conditions and therefore some discretion will have to be used by the engineer in charge. It is most unlikely that new joint rings will be required unless the boiler has been out for inspection and the shell removed. The boiler can be removed from the locomotive by removing the cab roof and lifting it out through the top or by removing the cab side and top and lifting it through the coal bunker side. We will therefore assume that the boiler is standing outside the locomotive and that the shell is to be removed and the boiler inspectors and then the shell replaced with new joint rings fitted. Always fit new joint rings after the shell has been removed. Before removing the boiler from the locomotive, it will have been found desirable to have previously removed:  The two chimney bases complete with inner chimneys and the chimney outer casing.  The boiler top lagging cover and boiler mattress.  The boiler top plate complete with the four Superheater coils.  The other boiler fittings and fire grates. With these items removed the weight of the boiler is two tons 19 cwts. After first marking the shell and the firebox for position, remove the shell by removing all the cap nuts and copper washers which hold the boiler shell top and bottom together. There are 64 Holding-down studs and nuts at the top and 70 at the bottom. The shell can now be lifted clear. It is most important to thoroughly clean the two faces of the shell and the two faces of the firebox which mate together. Any small pieces of the old joint rings which have not come away when the old joints were removed must be thoroughly cleaned off. It is not within the scope of this book to cover all aspects of boiler overhaul. Other repair details will not be given but we will assume that all wasted studs have been replaced and that all studs requiring caulking have been caulked. We also assume the back cap nuts have been tightened as necessary and that all other internal work on the boiler has been completed. Proceed to assemble the boiler shell to the firebox as follows: 1. Using graphite or Foliac, coat the faces of the firebox and shell in addition to the actual joints themselves. Fit the joints and drop the shell into position observing that the marks you put on the shell and firebox line up correctly. If a jointing compound is not used on the joint rings and the firebox and shell faces, the joint rings will stick to the faces of the firebox and shell when the shell is next removed. This will mean that the task of cleaning these faces will be greatly increased. 2. If possible, fit new annealed copper washers on all the studs but, if new copper washers are not available, thoroughly anneal all the old washers before fitting. 3. Tight and all the cap nuts slightly and then pull them down systematically by tightening one cap nut and then the corresponding cap nut on the opposite side of the boiler. Continue tightening in this sequence until all have been tightened. 4. This should be repeated three times for both of the top and bottom sets of cap nuts. It is most important that a thorough job should be made of the bottom set of cap nuts as they are difficult to tighten when the boiler is back in the locomotive. If possible, always use a torque spanner for tightening the cap nuts as this will enable them all to be tightened to the same torque. The torque settings are:  Minimum 155 pounds feet.

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 Maximum 235 pounds feet. The recommended torque is 200 pounds feet. If you tighten any cap nut, you must tighten them all. The boiler is now ready to be installed back in the locomotive cab. 5. Refit the boiler in the cab and reassemble all the boiler fittings, the Superheater coils and the chimneys but leave off of the boiler top lagging cover and the boiler mattress. It is assumed that everything has been coupled up correctly and that the boiler has been filled with water to the correct level through the boiler filler plug. 6. Slowly steam the boiler up to full pressure. Allow the pressure to subside to about 100 psi and tighten all the top boiler cap nuts again. If they take up to any extent, retighten them all again a second time. Check the bottom cap nuts but, if they have been fully tightened, they will not require any further tightening. If you need to tighten any of the bottom set of cap nuts, you must tighten them all equally. 7. Refit the boiler mattress and top lagging cover. 8. After approximately 100 hours steaming, carry out a further tightening of the top set of cap nuts and check the bottom set of cap nuts also. It will be necessary to remove the top lagging cover and boiler mattress to gain access to the top set of cap nuts. After tightening, replace the top lagging cover and boiler mattress. 9. Repeat item eight after a further 300 hours steaming. 10. Repeat item eight after a further 500 hours steaming. 11. Repeat item eight after a further 1000 hours steaming and then every 1000 hours thereafter. Please note: If it should be found necessary to tighten the bottom ring of the boiler cap nuts after the boiler has been fitted back in the locomotive cab, it will be necessary to remove the coal bunker in order to make the cap nuts on that side accessible. It is also recommended that the Worthington Simpson pump be removed from the other side of the cab to facilitate of the tightening of these nuts. It is absolutely essential that if any of the cab nuts in the bottom ring are tightened, they must all be tightened without exception. 3. NOTES ON THE BOILER FUSIBLE PLUG The Fusible plug is fitted on the boiler feed pump side of the boiler. It is hexagonal headed with its head in the water space of the boiler. The plug should be examined and cleaned at least quarterly. When this becomes necessary, remove of the hand hole door on the boiler shell. The Fusible plug can then be removed and a new one fitted using the special box spanner provided in the tool kit. When replacing the hand hole door, fit a new joint ring. Old Fusible plugs can be refilled using pure lead but a new one will generally be more satisfactory. 4. Notes on cleaning blast nozzles, blower rings and blast pipe elbows It is most important that these items are kept clean. The locomotive performance will deteriorate if they are not. Remove and clean of these items as follows: 1. Remove the two sections of the boiler top lagging cover on either side of the chimney. This will reveal the two steam exhaust pipes with their twin branch manifolds and also the twin blower pipes which branch into two. 2. Disconnect and remove both exhaust branch manifolds and the blower pipes. Loosen off the cab section of the exhaust pipes to permit the withdrawal of the manifolds. 3. The blast nozzles and elbows are secured to the chimney base by four studs and nuts. Remove the nuts and withdraw the elbow and blast nozzles complete with blower ring.

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On some locomotives, it will be found impossible to completely withdraw the elbow and blower rings; the small blower pipe between the manifold joint face of the elbow and the blower ring fouls the hole in the chimney base and prevents withdrawal. In this instance, remove the small pipe first and then withdraw the elbow and blower ring. 4. The blast nozzle can now be unscrewed from the blast pipe elbow to release the blower plate and pressure filled joint ring. These items must be thoroughly cleaned. The quickest way to do this is to put both the combined blast and blower pipe complete with blast nozzle into a blacksmith’s forge fire and burn the deposits off. On no account should these be heated above a dull red heat. After burning off the deposits, lift the combined blast and blower pipe out of the fire with blacksmith’s Tongs and put it in a vice. Unscrew the blast nozzle from the elbow. Allow it to cool and finally clean it by hand. 5. Repeat this process for all four blast nozzles. 6. Reassemble all the parts and fit the following new joints:  Combined blast and blower pipe elbow to blast nozzle – fit pressure filled joint ring (4).  Combined blast and blower pipe elbow to chimney base – fit blast pipe joint, inner (4).  Exhaust twin manifold to chimney base – fit blast pipe joint, outer (4).  Exhaust twin manifold to exhaust pipe – fit copper asbestos exhaust joint (2). 5. WASHOUT AND CLEANING OF BOILER The boiler should be washed out regularly. The period between the washing out of the boiler will vary according to working conditions and the type of water and water treatment used. It will generally be found to be desirable to wash the boiler out weekly. A sentinel boiler may evaporate its total capacity ten times during a day. This feature demands that regular washing out and cleaning should be carried out. Wash out the boiler as follows: Before commencing washing out operations, open the blow down cock to drain the boiler: 1. Remove the boiler filling plugs from both sides of the boiler and the four washout plugs situated in the base angle of the water wall of the fire box. Also remove the handhole and door taking care to prevent it from dropping inside the boiler! 2. Thoroughly hose down with a high pressure hose by inserting it through the boiler filling plug holes. Wash out tubes by inserting the hose through the handhole door aperture and a directing the water up into the tubes as far as possible and by directing the water liberally against the tube stack. 3. To remove sludge from the bottom of the boiler, push a ¾” diameter wire rope through one of the wash out plug holes and push it round the circumference of the base of the boiler until it comes to the next washout plug hole. Pull it through the second washout plug hole. 4. Move the wire rope backwards and forwards to dislodge the sludge. 5. Repeat items three and four until the wire rope has been worked backwards and forwards all the way round the bottom of the boiler. 6. Hose out very thoroughly to wash out the dislodged sludge. 7. Replace all plugs and the handhole door using a new joint. 8. If some form of water treatment is employed in the water storage tank, remember to give the boiler an initial dose when refilling it. 6. USE OF SOOT BLOWER It is just as important to keep the fireside of the boiler tubes as clean as the water side. The tubes in the tube bank are fairly close together and, if regular cleaning is not carried out, the performance of the locomotive will drop considerably. As an example of this, we have of served the evaporation capacity of a boiler dropping from 9.08 to 4.97 pounds of water evaporates had for 1 lb. of coal burned. This means that fuel consumption running costs were approximately doubled besides the locomotive having to stand at times to raise working steam pressure. Use the soot blower daily if internal spark arresters are fitted, otherwise weekly. For method of operation, see section C item 10.

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At three monthly intervals, it is recommended that the whole of the Superheater coil should be thoroughly cleaned by means of a steam lance or compressed air line being inserted down each of the four chimneys in turn.

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SECTION J HINTS ON MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS – AXLES AND RUNNING GEAR 1. METHOD OF ADJUSTING AXLES The locomotive axles are adjustable for position by altering the length of the radius rods which locate the axles on either side. The approximate axle positions are as follows:  The front axle centre line is approximately 7 feet 5½ inches behind the front buffer beam.  The rear axle centre line is approximately 5 feet 6 inches minimum behind the front axle centre line. The exact axle position is governed by the chains; the axles are adjusted backwards or forwards in order to keep the chains correctly tensioned (for further information on this, see chain adjustment). However, it is most important that the axles are adjusted squarely to the locomotive frame. The method of carrying out these adjustments is as follows: 1. In order to adjust the radius rods, loosen off the two pinch bolts and the lock nuts on the radius rods. The radius rod is hexagonal shaped in its centre section for spanner fitting. Turn the rod using a spanner to effect the adjustment required on all four radius rods. 2. In order to check that the axles are square to the locomotive frame, check the axle location by means of the trammels provided in the tool kit. 3. On locomotives which have a centre pop mark on the axle box covers, place one end of the trammels against this mark. If there is no centre pop mark on the axle box cover, remove the cover and work on the axle centre itself. 4. The datum point on the front of the locomotive is either a pop mark on the chassis frame itself, about 12 inches back from the front buffer beam, or a centre pop mark bolt head in the same position. If the datum pop mark cannot be located, use the countershaft centre line. 5. Adjust the position of the front axle first using the datum marks and trammels as outlined above. 6. When the front axle is correctly located, reset the trammels and work from the front axle centre line to the rear axle centre line as in instruction 3. 7. Before tightening the radius rod locknuts and pinch bolts, check that the radius rods are not under load. To do this, hold each rod and note whether it can be rotated by hand. When the rod is not under load, there is insufficient to play in the threads to permit it to be rotated about half a turn before the thread begins to take the weight of the axle. When the axle has been removed by turning the radius rods with a spanner, it is also a good policy to slacken the rod back and thus take the weight off the threads. In this way, it is possible to obviate the risk of an radius rod working loose while the locomotive is running. 8. When both axles are correctly located, retighten the pinch bolts and lock nuts. 2. NOTES ON DRIVING CHAIN ADJUSTMENT The chains are adjusted for tensioned by moving the axles backwards or forwards; see instructions above on axle adjustment. Adjust the primary chains first by correct positioning of the front axle. After the front axle has been located for correct chain tension, adjust the rear axle to give the correct adjustment on the coupling chain. The setting for each chain is the same. With one side of the chain tight, it should be possible to lift the loose side of the chain 3 to 4 inches. 3. METHOD OF ADJUSTING BRAKES Before making brake adjustments, make sure that the axles are correctly located; then proceed as follows. The essential principle in making brake adjustments is to start from the rear of the locomotive and work forward starting with the steam brake cylinder itself and then adjusting the brake blocks individually. In general proceed as follows:

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1. Remove pins (part number 453.H and A, one each side) which fit into the master adjustment holes in the brake adjusting palms (part number 424.B). The removal of these pins completely disconnects the brake weighshaft, brake piston in the steam brake cylinder and the handbrake from the rest of the brake gear. 2. Push the steam brake piston as far up the brake cylinder as it will go. Measure the distance between the back face of the piston and the open face of the cylinder. The distance should be approximately 6½” if the piston is pushed fully into the cylinder. 3. Loosen off as far as possible the adjustment nuts (455.E) which are on the threaded section of the adjusting palm 424.B. 4. Now arrange for the brake blocks on the rear wheels to touch the wheel tyres at the bottom with about ⅛” gap at the top. If necessary, disconnect the linkage to the front brakes. 5. Having obtained this adjustment, insert the pins 453.H & A into the nearest appropriate hole in the palm and make the final adjustment by screwing the nuts 455.E to give the final ⅛” gap. 6. Having obtained the correct adjustment on the rear wheel brakes, adjust the front wheel brakes using the screw adjustment nuts 455.B situated between the two half sections of the side rods immediately behind the front wheels. 7. Each the brake blocks must be adjusted to give the same clearance to its wheels; otherwise the braking will be uneven. Note: all parts identified by part numbers are illustrated in the drawing of the brake gear (Drawing number 280) in the spare parts book. The brake rod cradles which hold the side rods and which fits on to the screwed section of the palm are not shown in the spare parts book. It is absolutely essential that these are fitted horizontally, i.e. parallel to the ground, otherwise the brakes will not come off freely. The brake block clearance must be adjusted when, with the bottom of the brake block held against its wheel, the top clearance between the tyre and the block exceeds ¾”. A hole is drilled in the underside of the brake cylinder 2¾” from the open end of the cylinder. If steam in any quantity is emitted from the hole, it means that the piston is exceeding its normal travel. This will cause loss of power to the brake and indicate that the clearances have become too great. Adjustment is then required immediately.

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SECTION K FAULT LOCATION AND REMEDIES The following information will cover the more common faults likely to be encountered on Sentinel locomotives. Type of trouble Possible cause Remedy and notes 1. Difficulty in maintaining adequate boiler (i) Pancake of Clinker on Allow fire to burn down by pressure Fire bars not adding fuel. Normal Clinker can be broken up with a prick and removed by means of a fire shovel and rake through the fire hole door. The space in the floor round the fire hole door enables Clinker to be dropped through on to the track. Rake out the Ashpan and remake fire. (ii) Poor quality fuel The greater draught required. Change blast nozzles to next smaller size. (iii) Tube bank and Use soot blower steam Superheater blocked with lance liberally top and soot bottom. If the tube bank should be completely blocked up so that the lance is ineffective, pass a ½” round rod up between the tubes. Then continue to clean with the lance. 1a. Engines using an excessive quantity of Can sometimes be steam. detected by an irregular exhaust beat. (i) Incorrect valve Adjust valve clearances. clearances or sticking See instructions in section engine valves F. (ii) Release valve stuck A continual blow and roar open of steam from the steam release pipe under the footplate when the regulator is open. If the valve should be found to be stuck open, released the valve and oil it. Check that the Delvac pump is delivering oil to the regulator steam chest Atomiser. 2. Power reduces when steam pressure is (i) incorrect valve Can sometimes be maintained clearances detected by an irregular exhaust beat. (ii) sticking engine valves Adjusting valve clearances. See instructions in section F.

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(iii) piston rod steam Tighten down with packings blowing badly moderate pressure. Fit an extra ring of packing. Renew packings completely. Do not over- tighten; it will cause the piston rod to be scored and cause unnecessary wear on the packings. (iv) worn piston rings Replace piston rings as in section F. (v) Badly worn valve Reface and grind the faces and seats valves as in section F. (vi) Badly worn valve Steam and water will be guides and valve stems seen coming down the valve guides. Ream out the non detachable valve guides and fit new valves with oversize stems (vii) Cylinder release One cylinder release valve valves blowing off below is situated in each section 275 psi of each cylinder, four in total per engine. Steam should not normally be emitted from them as engine working pressure is normally not quite full boiler pressure although this may happen occasionally. If steam is emitted from any of them on each working stroke of their piston, remove the valve completely from the cylinder, regrind the valve, adjust it or replace its spring as necessary. The purpose of the valve is to prevent ‘water smash’. 3. Lack of oil pressure (i) water in sump Drain off water using sump drain cock. Also see section A (ii) dirty Sump filter Remove, clean and refit. Check pump spindle gland packing first. (iii) sucking in of air on Check all suction pipe suction side of Rotoplunge connections between the oil pump sump filter and oil pump. Check connections on the small copper pipe on the pump itself between the suction side of the pump and the gland.

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3a. Excessive engine oil consumption (iv) worn piston rod oil Slightly tighten down. If packings this does not cure the trouble, fit new rings or packings. See section A item 7. 4. Boiler priming Dirty boiler Wash out and clean, see section F. Unsuitable feed water treatment. 5. Blow of steam in firebox Steam leak past Holding- Remove cap nuts and fit down studs new annealed copper washers; retighten cap nuts. If the problem continues, fit two copper washers are studs. See also section F. And Steam leak from top or Retighten all cap nuts. bottom joint rings See section F. If the problem continues, replace the joint rings. Burst boiler tube Replace tube. Blowing Superheater coil Fit new coil.

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SECTION L TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES

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