BESPOKEBESPOKE
ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 VINTAGE ISSUE
EXIT COPPER LET IT REIGN
KATE HAWLEY ON GUILLERMO DEL TORO’S CRIMSON PEAK
STEAMPUNK & INTAGE A GOOD V IND IS HARD TO F BESPOKE BESPOKE P. 2 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4
Editor-in-Chief Contributors: THE VINTAGE ISSUE Loretta Chin Jennifer Bunt !"#$%&"'(%'()"'*+,-./'0123'4,5(' Amanda Bone Vintage issue of BeSpoke, our news- Story Editor Loretta Chin letter that celebrates our alliance of Kristen O’Reilly Bernadette Croft 100 plus members and showcases Urs Dierker the talents of our members’ creativ- Copy Editor Ian Drummond ity and craft. Straddling the worlds Kim Harkness Alexandria Goldman %6'4#&7'685)-%.'8.9'9"5-/.7':"*+%;"' Kim Harkness features interesting and relevant sto- Art & Advertising Adam Smith ries on the work of both seasoned Urs Dierker Joanna Syrokomla and neophyte talents, embracing the craft from both artistic and technical Advertising CAFTCAD perspectives with a much needed Jennifer Kelly 65 Heward Ave Building C #223 sense of humour and fondness for Toronto ON M4M 2T5 the medium we’ve chosen to work in. Graphic Design 416 900 0955 This is our vehicle to create aware- Macroblu [email protected] ness for what we do at home and [email protected] for the international community. Photo Editor We’d like to showcase the works of Cyana Madsen Correction: In the Portfolio section each and every one of you, so stay of the last BeSpoke Issue (Issue #5 involved, reach out and let us know Fall 2013) Ritta Koleva’s name was what you are doing. We hope you misspelled. We apologize for the enjoy the issue! oversight. BESPOKE BESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 P. 3
LET IT REIGN By Kim Harkness
Image courtesy of M3
These days Toronto is a hotbed for 4(5'()"'=-##'85'-('6""#5'#-;"'8'&%9",.' sexy and alluring. Naughty yet period series and features. Although historical romance novel come to elegant. Outdated in our everyday Copper has exited, Murdoch Mysteries life. The series chronicles the rise <5"7'%<,'#%A"'8B8-,'?-()'()"&'-5'68,' is now in its seventh season, the fea- to power of Mary Queen of Scots from over, as many designers like (<,"'4#&5'Crimson Peak and Life are in when she arrives in France. It’s highly Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, production, and Reign, the Favourite 4$(-%.8#->"97'?-()'8'&%9",.'5$%,"' and Vivienne Westwood are known New TV Series winner at the People’s and period-inspired wardrobe. The for them. Choice Awards, has been awarded a show details the secret of survival at Reign’s costume designer Meredith second season. It must be a sign of @,".$)'$%<,('8&-95('4",$"'6%"57'98,;' Markworth-Pollack has crafted stun- what’s on our collective minds – if it’s forces and a world of sexual intrigue. ning costumes that pay tribute to not vampires, werewolves and the It’s a coming of age story – universal, historical accuracy with liberal doses zombie apocalypse, we’re looking timeless, with a more regal wardrobe of modern sensibility. Where Copper back where there’s plenty of treach- than the average Jane. worked hard at being true to the ery and intrigue - at least there is in The wardrobe on Reign pays trib- period, Reign is more interpretive in the historical stories being portrayed ute to the real France of 1564 with costume design. Just as Hollywood on the screen. a contemporary twist. It showcases in its glory days (all those Edith Head CW, who broadcasts Reign, is a pretty girls in corsets with metal- shows) was forward thinking of cur- network that targets a female audi- lic details that were certainly not of rent styles, Meredith has been grant- ence from 18-34 year olds. Reign that time. The corset: restrictive, ed similar freedom, albeit altering a BESPOKE BESPOKE P. 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4
Images courtesy of M3 vision of the past instead of pushing on Film International Festival in Steampunk movement to shows like the present into the future. Southern California for the Bravo Game of Thrones, Downton Abbey, Meredith has a history with both Fact short she designed called Rosie The Tudors and Mad Men (to name period and pretty shows, having de- Takes the Train, a character study that just a few), audiences continue to be signed a pilot called Valley Girls set in “follows the life of Rosie from the fascinated with history - or at least the 1980s as well a web series called 1930s up to the present day.” 8'4$(-(-%<5',".9",-./'%6'-(D'E%?"A",' Stupid Hype set in the 90s. She was On Reign, fabrics and costume tied up in the politics of 1550s also the ACD on Gossip Girls for two stock have been sourced throughout France a viewer might be, it’s hard seasons where NYC never looked Europe and North America. “Tirelli not to imagine that a large part of prettier serving as the central char- Costumi (Italy) and Angels of London the draw is visual. Whether you pick acter alongside the privileged Upper (England) costume houses have up on the contemporary elements East Side kids who took fashion very been our main contributors however of the wardrobe or not is beside the seriously and made Manhattan their the Stratford Theatre (Ontario) has point. If you never question it, even playground. also provided great stock for the better. It’s the sign of the success- ACD Leslie Kavanagh (CAFTCAD show.” Some challenges have been ful hands of the designer and the member) says, “we always try to C4.9-./'()"',-/)('A-.(8/"'$#%()"5'(%' costume department. keep the feel and vibe of the true use as elements of the costume that In period shows costume design period but bring it to a more con- pair well with our in-house builds,” can be both historically accurate temporary place where today’s audi- she adds. “We build over 50% of the and imaginative through the creative ence can really relate to it.” She also costumes, almost all for our hero interpretations of designers. As gar- reveals that “the female cast have all players and some for our day players ments from the distant past disinte- really learned to love corsets!” or specialty looks, such as soldiers. grate, shows in the future will consist Leslie has a history with period As always, footwear has been of entire costumes that blend true shows herself. “Total Recall and problematic. They just don’t seem to period with the artistic inspirations Robocop were both futuristic and make tall leather boots for men they of costume designers. And on that dealt with specialty costumes,” she way they do for women.” day we’ll have to say that true period says. Recently, Leslie won a Best While we’re not watching the shows are a thing of the past. Costume Design Award at the Action History Channel, it’s clear from the BESPOKE BESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 P. 5
PERIOD CLOTHING & THE MODERN BODY By Urs Dierker
“I really found the clothing very (,L'9-B",".('5(L#"57O'P%,"".'58L5D' restrictive,” British actress Anastasia Michel adds, “You’re more visual in F,-G()'89&-(("9'-.'8.'-.(",A-"?' your results.” Delphine explains, “The about the series Copper. “It imposed cutter certainly is the person which a lot on me insofar as how I would has more to do with the design of carry myself and how I would even the costume, than anybody else in breathe and talk and move.” How the department. You know, as a de- then, do you cut a period garment signer, you may have as many ideas for a modern body, especially when, as you want but unless you have a in 1860 a corset was mandatory for good crew these designs won’t come <++",'$#855'?%&".H'I('9"4."9'()"-,' to fruition. I love working coopera- silhouette. tively with a cutter and enjoy input- Loreen Lightfoot was the cutter on ting their feedback into the costume.” Copper in the initial season. “In the It’s not very common for patterns 4,5('5"85%.'%6'Copper this restric- to survive a show but there’s a huge (-%.'4('J.85(85-8'F,-G()K5'$)8,8$(",' pile of Copper patterns hanging in (Elisabeth Haverford),” she says. the CAFTCAD library. There are pat- Loreen and Michel Proulx, who was terns for men’s pants, jackets, and the second season cutter, share sim- shirts and women’s dresses from ilar experiences while cutting period the 1860s in New York City. The costumes for a contemporary female four cutters on the series - Nancy body. “An actor has to learn how Dasilva, Loreen Lightfoot, Michel to wear a period costume. At that Proulx and Ahmad Zargaran, com- time, they were not moving like we piled the patterns. Delphine do- do today. You could not raise your nated the patterns and two years of arm, like in a t-shirt,” Michel explains. research to the CAFTCAD library to Loreen continues, “Bodies are so allow for the study of “how clothing 9-B",".('(%98L'6,%&'8')<.9,"9'L"8,5' went together back then”, bearing in 8/%D'I'9,86('8'+8((",.'(%'4('8'&%9",.' mind the realities of drafting for the body placing the lines so that we contemporary body. This is only half /"('()"'+",-%9'#%%;'8.9'4(7'=<('M()8(N' the truth, because none of Elisabeth still pleases the contemporary eye. Haverford’s beautiful dress patterns To cut a garment in the original way (ball gowns made of green, blue and would be to not understand, there white silk with countless hand-sewn is no ease. You can see in old photo- applications) are there. Those pat-
graphs, women could barely move in terns, along with the original dresses Loreen Lightfoot and Michel Proulx working on their garments.” went to United American Costume Copper “In the second season,” Copper’s Company in Los Angeles, a wardrobe costume designer Delphine White house renowned for its authentic explains, “it was all about the women and reproduction period pieces. She was stunning. You could see being stronger. We cut the necklines Delphine and her team created the hours of work that went into lower and showed their sexuality.” over 48 upper class gowns inspired her beautifully crafted garments. Both cutters used draping and draft- by 1860s New York fashion for Q)"'?%,;'+8-9'%BD'R"#+)-."'!)-("' ing techniques to establish the look J.85(85-8'F,-G()K5'$)8,8$(",'9<,-./' was nominated for a 2014 Canadian of each garment. “Draping gives you the run of the show. When Anastasia Screen Award for her costume de- an immediate result. You can quickly arrived on set you held your breath. sign on Copper. BESPOKE P. 6 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14
LETTER FROM THE A CONVERSATION PRESIDENT WITH EDITH HEAD Joanna Syrokomla Review by Alexandria Goldman
Photo by John Currid
On January 17th, 2014 Edith Head audience and helped to keep her came to Toronto to talk about her truthful by asking questions, recalling illustrious career as Hollywood’s facts, and reminding her of certain greatest costume designer. Well, controversies regarding the work of not the real Edith Head, but Susan other designers that she took credit Claassen in her one woman show A for. Any fan of costume design and Conversation with Edith Head. 4#&'?%<#9')8A"'()%,%Mae West, Barbara Stanwyck, and made its Canadian debut at Buddies Working hard to bring A Conversation Alfred Hitchcock, and the animosity in Bad Times Theatre in Toronto. If with Edith Head to Toronto along with she felt towards Claudette Colbert, you missed the performance you this period-themed issue reminds Miss Head spoke about her experi- may be interested in the book Edith &"')%?'&<$)'UJ@QUJR'8B"$(5'+"%- ences on Sunset Boulevard, Double Head’s Hollywood by Paddy Calistro +#"'-.'()"'4#&'8.9'$%5(<&"'$%&&<- Indemnity, and To Catch a Thief, her and Edith Head, now available in a nity. Seeing the network, friendships eight Oscar wins and her greatest 25th anniversary edition. and professional relationships build disappointments. and continue is always the highlight Stuart Moulton, her “greatest Alexandria Goldman was the produc- of every CAFTCAD initiative. fan”, introduced Miss Head to the tion coordinator for this project. BESPOKE BESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 P . 7
IT’S GONNA BE VELVET Kate: I am bound to a period. We AN INTERVIEW WITH CAFTCAD’S NEW have period, but then (also) what suits SATELLITE MEMBER KATE HAWLEY the character. I draw on many things to help the character tell the story. I By Urs Dierker take license - think of it as a painting, the gesture is the silhouette of the period and the details are the things Toronto - Pinewood Studios. 10 am. Inches or centimetres? we want to share with the audience Kate Hawley is back in town, after Kate: What are we talking about? and the clues we want to give. It is not shooting !"#$%#&'$( to costume Don’t ask me, you should never ask a fantasy. Think about it as roman- design the new Guillermo del Toro me whether it is inches or centimetres. tic and look at a Goya painting or a (GTD) feature Crimson Peak. She Renee: She just wants lots and more. Delacroix. We are painterly in our ap- S<5('4.-5)"9'Edge of Tomorrow with (Laughter) proach to period. It is about establish- Q%&'U,<-5"7'8.9'(%98L'-5')",'4,5('98L' Kate: Yes, lots and more works better ing mood and atmosphere. in the studio. Kate looks great. She than inches and centimetres. In !"#$%#&'$( you had a strong colour ,<5)"5'%<('%6')",'%G$"'?-()'8'?8,&' Bright Star or Taxi Driver? code. How is it with this one? smile on her face. It’s busy - people Kate: Ohh, that’s tricky. I love De Niro Kate: This does too. are moving boxes, the cutter sets up and Taxi Driver. Ok, I think it has to be How important are new techniques her tools, the breakdown artist ar- De Niro wearing a dress from Bright like digital fabric or 3D printing to ranges her books, the graphic artist Star. (Big laughter) you? hides behind huge monitors and the Can you describe your current proj- Kate: I would say I work quite organi- supervisor answers the phone. ect, Crimson Peak? cally. When I explore an idea, it’s all Kate’s assistant Renee Bravener Kate: I can describe it in GDT’s words: about feeling. I work very texturally joins us. Kate talks with Renee, let’s it is a gothic, grand scale, romanti- and I am very excited about 3D mod- out a big laugh and then turns, cism horror. It is a Jekyll and Hyde eling … but … you have to go through focusing her eyes on me. Moderate )$*+&,-&%.(/&01&$2&345$,+6&781&0&9,8.+& 1:4&$+4"&,-&9:"1&;,8&9"*1&1,&+,&%521& smile. Hands are calm. say it’s symbolic. and then ask what is the technique to Red or Blue? Symbolic means you are not achieve this idea. Kate: Red or Blue? Red. Always. =%<.9'(%'8'5+"$-4$'+",-%9H BESPOKE BESPOKE P. 8 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4
About your research, looking around actor to make the journey if we put you, but it does not impress Kate. you, there are many pictures… her in that moiré fabric. Kate: I am using a lot of symbolic Kate: Yes, it is part of our hunting Kate & Renee: … (laughter) without painters as a reference for some of the and gathering. And actually it is a telling you too much… work we are doing, that also informs 1,1".&5423,*246&0&+,&"&%521&54"+$*<&,-& Kate: It is very kinky. GDT quote how we approach the textiles and the the script and then I don’t pick it up @)$*);A/&B4&"..&:"?4&+$C454*1&$+4"2&,-& nature of the fabric that we choose, again, until I have done the mood what kinky is. (Big laughter) the choice of colours, things like that. board. Kate: The production designer and So there’s never been a reason like Renee: She tries to get everything myself, we are another vision of GDT “that’s just a pretty dress,” it’s never out of her head, and she does that by and our job is, I think, not to dictate like that. drawing pictures and images from all but enforce the ideas and themes we Renee: Each dress has a name. over the place. want to do and you ask these top- Kate: They do. There is a Nancy Drew You have arranged your pictures skilled to bring it back and make it dress and the Boqueria dress and a … )","'8#,"89L'#-;"'-.'8'4#&'5"V<".$"D work. Because I can do a drawing Kate and Renee: Heartbreak dress. Kate: Yes, I do the mood boards like but if someone does not understand (Laughter) "&%.(&24=84*#4&>&4"#:&"#1$,*&$*&1:4& the cutting it might not look like the Renee: Everything has a name. %.(&"*+&1:4&#:"5"#145&+4?4.,3(4*1& drawing. You need people that go … Kate: Yeah, and that involves every- within that. GDT has a very clear idea ok, the feeling in that drawing means body…because everybody has to of the silhouette of each character, that I need another three metres in interpret that as part of the job they and now we have to distill it into the that fabric as opposed “I know what are working on. key ideas. You know, you love this this period is, and we’re gonna stick Kate'/%"5'=8$;'(%')",'%G$"7'&8;-./' fabric ...it was a moiré for this charac- with the period rules.” I need someone jokes with the cutter. Renee nods ter and we both came back from the who can look at the drawing and the and follows her. A big white dog weekend and I asked Renee and Renee line of the drawing and interpret that. comes and licks my hand. I pet the said to me “It’s gonna be velvet.” D:"1&$2&1:4&+$C454*#4/ dog and think, “what a wonderful day.” Because we were not allowing the F,"8('4.8#"D'I'8&')8++LD'I'58L'()8.;'
MEET A MEMBER: dyeing), as well as millinery sup- FARTHINGALES plies, tailoring canvas, corset bones, busks, coutil (a tightly woven fabric used for corsets), and hoop steel. @8,()-./8#"5'4,5('%+"."9'-(5'9%%,5' Eventually the demand for dyeable in 1998 as a mail-order source for fabrics and tailoring canvas dimin- $%5(<&"'&8;-./'5<++#-"5D'WB",-./' ished and Farthingales stopped a conventional paper catalogue, stocking them. They now specialize Farthingales was also an early in corset and millinery supplies and adopter of online retailing - estab- have the widest selection of coutil #-5)-./'8'?"='+,"5".$"'(%'%B",'()"-,' on the web. A few years ago they products online. Owner Linda Sparks invented “hoop connectors” to make had been a buyer for the Stratford the building and storage of hoop Festival Theatre for eight years, and skirts (or mascot bodies) easier. a costume builder for four years Linda’s original goal was to make prior - she uniquely understood products available for the Canadian Company, Cirque du Soleil, the Royal what products the Canadian cos- costume community but with their Winnipeg Ballet, the Australian tume community needed and knew online success they now ship to a Ballet, Opera Australia, and New York where to get them. 9-A",5"'$#-".("#"'()8('-.$#<9"5'4#&' fashion houses Nicole Miller and Eric The early years saw the company productions, The Canadian Opera Winterling. carry PFD fabrics (prepared for BESPOKE BESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 P. 9
WHAT IS THIS “STEAMPUNK” literature, Steampunk has also been THING I KEEP HEARING ABOUT? subject to the whims of that sub- culture, and found its way into the By Adam Smith domain of “cosplay” or costume play 8(',"/-%.8#'5$-X4'$%.A".(-%.5'#-;"'()"' San Diego Comic-Con, Dragon Con in Atlanta, and even Anime North and FanExpo Canada in Toronto. It has since then developed be- yond that, becoming an aesthetic and style that permeates art, music style and fashion. The imagery is frequently inspired by clothing of the Victorian and Edwardian European styles, with injections from Jules Verne, H.G. Wells, and even Mary Shelley, with fantastical machin- ery and contraptions, airships and rayguns, mad scientists, and much more. The visuals are further fu- "##"9'=L'4#&5'#-;"'Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, Wild Wild West, The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen and in re- cent years, by the surge in popularity of graphic novels. Part of the appeal of Steampunk to the hobbyist costuming com- munity is that it is historically-based fantasy, and as such there are no hard-and-fast rules about what is acceptable and what is not, and the cosplay community has a lot of fun with it. A Steampunk Batman? Sure! Steampunk Justice League? Why not? Steampunk Ichabod Crane? I think Johnny Depp did that in Sleepy Hollow! While the convention hobbyist cos- tumers have had their fun, there’s something about the visual aesthetic Photo courtesy of Adam Smith that is appealing. Hardly a single large fashion house has not unveiled “Steampunk” has hit a variety of eighties and nineties that speculated some Steampunk-inspired cre- visual arts hard in recent years, and what the world may have become if ations in the last two or three years: has been described as “Victorian the dawn of the digital age happened Prada, Versace, and Givenchy have Science Fiction”, “Retro-futurism”, in the Victorian era. It is an imagining all played with historically-inspired and “When goths discover the colour of what Victorians may have thought clothing and goggles. And they don’t brown”. But what is it really? their future would look like. show any sign of slowing down just Modern Steampunk has its roots Having found its roots in geek yet. Steampunk will be around for -.'5$-".$"'4$(-%.'=%%;5'%6'()"'#8("' $<#(<,"'-.'()"'6%,&'%6'5$-".$"'4$(-%.' some time to come. BESPOKE BESPOKE P.10 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4
MORE THAN A FACE IN THE CROWD:! THE ART OF DRESSING PERIOD BACKGROUND By Jennifer Bunt
Dressing contemporary background Vintage shoes are notoriously nar- on a show. Taking vouchers and can be as simple as making sure a row, and I’ve gone through 20 pairs logging individual items as they go handful of folks are logo free and ap- %6'5)%"5'="6%,"'4.9-./'5%&"()-./' out is standard practice. It also helps propriate to a mixed urban scene or that could be worn without excru- cut down on the chaos as a mob 85'$%&+#-$8("9'85'%<(4((-./'9%>".5' ciating pain. Reproductions can be of BG descends upon the costume of uniformed personnel and victims a godsend, but be sure they are department in a rush to wrap out. at a disaster scene. Dressing back- faithful to the era of the show. Break Any way you do it, a day of dressing ground for period productions in- down the script for scenes in which period background will be long and volves an even larger set of variables. BG will be required and discuss with challenging. Being prepared, keeping A period show can be anything from the designer what sort of aesthetic communication open, and being able a couple decades past to thousands each location has. Know which type to roll with the inevitable last minute %6'L"8,5'8/%7'8.9'%B",'/,"8('$,"8(-A"' of suit is appropriate in each situa- changes will help it all go smoothly. opportunities as well as a series of tion and whether it’s appropriate to unique challenges. wear hats. Know the sartorial rules Q)"'4,5('()-./'(%'9%'?)".'?%,;-./' and language of the period, but be CAFTCADEMY: on a period show is to research the prepared to break them if requested era: collect photos, paintings, and by the director or designer. THE ART OF images of actual historical garments. For example, despite the fact that DESTRUCTION U,"8("'L%<,'%?.',"5%<,$"'4#"57' throughout history it was considered Reviewed by Amanda Bone which you can use to discuss partic- de rigueur for men and women to ulars with the designer. I like to have wear hats and gloves outdoors, it both a digital and a hard copy of can be overwhelming to the modern I’ve been a CAFTCAD member images. You then build stock of ap- eye. I’ve had to pull accessories to since 2012 and have enjoyed many propriate pieces. Suits, casual wear, lighten a scene. Conversely, I’ve been CAFTCAD events but The Art of hats, dresses, skirts, blouses, under- requested to leave a gentleman’s hat Destruction breakdown seminar was garments such as corsets, bras, slips, %.'-.9%%,5'(%'$8&%
Experimenting with bullet holes trial and error nature of the course. talented instructors - Alex Kavanagh, was interesting too, learning how to I6'5%&"()-./'9%"5.K('?%,;'()"'4,5(' Sarah Armstrong, Liz Walter-Gregg work both with squibs and without. time - just try it again. Start with and Adam Smith for sharing their Tackling burns was very informative, a light hand and then build. It’s all knowledge, tips and tricks with all of particularly learning how working about layers. My dirty jeans had at us. The art of breakdown seemed in- from the inside of a garment can #"85('5-T'9-B",".('#8L",5'%6'+8-.('=L' (-&-98(-./'8('4,5(7'=<('()"5"'8&8>-./' change the look of the burn. It was the end of the exercise. -.5(,<$(%,5'#"6('&"'6""#-./'$%.49".(' fun to practice achieving this look Looking around the room, that with a little creativity there is no through various painting techniques. I noticed how much fun everyone telling what I will be able to accom- I also learned the importance of was having practicing new skills like plish in the Art of Destruction. safety and how to protect myself creating realistic fake snow, making Information on upcoming while working on garment break- new jeans look worn, and mixing the CAFTCADEMY seminars is available down – simply wearing a mask will perfect grunge colour - thank you on the website. Anyone interested in &8;"'8'9-B",".$"D'*8.9-./'8'+8-,'%6' Alex, for sharing the recipe. Who more CAFTCADEMY events, our next jeans is not as easy as it seems, and knew you could do so much with CAFTCADEMY 101 will be on June 21st there is no exact science to break- paint? & 22nd. For more information please ing something down. I enjoyed the I want to thank the seriously visit our website CAFTCAD.com. BESPOKE BESPOKE P.12 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4
!)8('-5'L%<,'68A%,-("'+",-%9'4#&'6%,' Do you watch any period television costuming? that you would recommend? 0&.$)4&345$,+&%.(2&1:"1&"54&*,1&#,(- Mad Men, Downton Abbey, Carnivàle, pletely historically accurate but more Boardwalk Empire, Game of Thrones, stylized. Catherine Martin is famous Ripper Street and Deadwood. I have for this and it’s beautifully depicted in also been watching the Hannibal The Great Gatsby. In the BG costum- series. Even though it is contempo- ing, for instance, there was a fusion of rary, there is a timeless quality to the high fashion (Prada), vintage and her costumes and production design that own original designs. is beautiful and classic. What era would you most want to go !)8('-5'L%<,'68A%<,-("'",8'4#&7'.%(' back to, just for the clothes? period per se, but one that captures SMALL TALK 0&1:$*)&(;&:,85<."22&%<854&9,8.+& the period in which it was produced? WITH BERNADETTE most suit the 1950s. Dior gave us E$<:&F$+4.$1;&9"2&"&<54"1&%.(&1:"1& CROFT cinched waistlines, ornate necklines encompassed not only that interesting and precision tailoring - and with the era of 1990s fashion but classic music Have you worked on any exciting right foundation garments, helped too. The characters were a riot. period shows? give a beautiful, feminine silhouette. What vintage clothing or accessories Yes, many! My latest was Baz Hot on his tail was Coco Chanel who do you wear/own/collect? Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby. had a ‘new wave’ take on the modern I travel a lot so jewellery is at the top If you could live in an era of the past, 9,("*&"*+&<"?4&82&4C,51.4226&#:$#& of my list as it’s easy to cart around. which one would you chose and and wearable clothing. An amazing I’m also in love with silk scarves and why? decade for fashion. encrusted vintage purses. My favorite The 1920s. I like the idea of get- Who in cinematic history would you piece is an Art Nouveau embossed ting dressed up, listening to jazz at most want to go back in time to silver locket that I bought at a market a speakeasy, and drinking copious meet? in Paris. Buying vintage is always an amounts of Gin Rickeys! Costume legend Edith Head. investment!
A GOOD and rental market. It’s no surprise :"5+&1,&%*+&"1&"&54"2,*"7.4&35$#4/& that all proprietors (Nicole Manek Right now we have a collection from VINTAGE IS of Life of Manek, Ian Drummond of a client’s mother that includes labels HARD TO FIND the Ian Drummond Collection and such as Akris, Valentino, Burberry, Marya and Irene Duplaga, of Studio and Celine. We have a private collec- By Kim Harkness 1968) suggest fellow local owners tion of vintage items. and the Internet when you can’t With clothing from the earlier era’s !)-#"'-('&8L'="'"85L'6%,'L%<'(%'4.9' 4.9'?)8('L%
SHANNON POMOKOV Collider films, Heritage Minutes for Historica Canada, Directed by Alex Boothby
Steve Cumyn as John A. Macdonald in “Sir John A. MacDonald - Steamship to Charlottetown”. Photo Credit courtesy of Collider Films
Confederation is debated in the Province of Canada Assembly Chamber in 1865 in “Sir George-Étienne Cartier - Nation Building”. Photo Credit courtesy of Collider Films PORTFOLIO PORTFOLIO ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 P.15
A recreation of the photograph of delegates on the steps of Government House, Charlottetown, 1864; where John A. Macdonald argued for Confederation in “Sir John A. MacDonald- Steamship to Charlottetown”. Photo Credit courtesy of Collider Films PORTFOLIO PORTFOLIO P.16 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4
FORTIES FASHION FROM IAN DRUMMOND
Photos courtesy of Ian Drummond PORTFOLIO PORTFOLIO ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 P.17
JOANNA SYROKOMLA
Photo by Calwyn Shurgold
A Ponzi scheme dramedy that tells the story of how a cunning, attractive secretary levels the +#8L-./'4"#9'%.'!8##'*(,""('-.'2\]^D'!"='5",-"5'+,%9<$"9'=L'*"$,"('P%$8(-%.'+,"&-",-./'%.' www.whateverlinda.com. Costume Designer Joanna Syrokomla, Assistant Costume Designer :-##-"':#85(7'!8,9,%="'J55-5(8.(5':"A",#"L'P8?7':",.89"(("'U,%6(7'8.9'E8.."'!)-(4"#9D BESPOKE BESPOKE P.18 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4
WHO, WHAT, WHERE By Loretta Chin
We are thrilled to announce that FOR BEST COSTUME the neurotic to the psychotic. With Debra Hanson is the winner of the DESIGN ON A SERIES: each episode Brenda reveals each 2014 Canadian Screen Award for character’s psyche on both sides of Costume Design for the Global tele- Delphine White, Copper – The the law using visual cues of wardrobe vision series, Bomb Girls – Party Line. Hudson River School in this gritty crime procedural. Debra is a triple threat CD who has Under the direction of CD Loretta Chin served as CD on the 8++#-"9')",'$,86('(%'4#&7'("#"A-5-%.' Delphine White the costume depart- 4.8#"'%6'()"'U:U',"8#-(L'5)%?'Recipe and theatre, having been nominated ment of the period series Copper to Riches S3 which began produc- twice for Best Costume Design at the demonstrated unwavering dedica- tion at the end of March. In addi- Genies. tion to authenticity. Building each tion to her weekly fashion column Several CAFTCAD members were garment from the ground up, using for The Grid, her styling and writing nominated for the 2014 Canadian only fabrics found during the period appears in the Winter issue of King Screen Awards. Congratulations to and considerable hand-stitching, West Magazine. Currently she is all the nominees and their teams. White’s costumes circa 1864 New looking forward to the publication York were displayed at the MOMA of a fashion and shopping feature in 6%,'()"'+,"&-","'%6'()"'4,5('5"8- TORONTO Magazine’s 2014 issue – FOR BEST COSTUME son. A previous Gemini, Genie, and the city’s premier tourism magazine. DESIGN IN FILM: Emmy nominee, this was White’s *(8,(-./'()"'L"8,'?-()'8'Y<,,L'%6' 4,5('U8.89-8.'*$,"".'J?8,95' )-/)'+,%4#"'89A",(-5-./'5)%%(57'5)"' Lea Carlson, The Colony nomination. recently designed the look of eight- @%,'()-5',-A"(-./'U8.89-8.'5$-X4' Laurie Drew, Orphan member band aQwa. thriller helmed by Canadian director Black– Instinct CD Anne Dixon has put a couple _"B'`".6,%"7'UR'P"8'U8,#5%.'$,"8("9' The Golden Globe nominated of projects to bed over the past year. the wardrobe for the survivors of a Orphan Black is a hot property. It What We Have7'()"'4,5('6"8(<,"'4#&' second Ice Age who must battle a recently picked up ten CSA awards. by director Maxime Desmons is the vicious foe. Lea enlisted CAFTCAD Veteran CD Laurie Drew was nomi- culmination of three years of work by members ACD Sarah Armstrong, nated for Best Costume Design for Anne and Desmons. The hauntingly Buyers Joanna Syrokomla and ()"'$,-(-$8##L'8$$#8-&"9'5$-X4'5",-"5D' ="8<(-6<#'4#&'5"('-.'.%,()",.'U8.898' Lori Gardner and Breakdown Artist Adept at dressing strong women, is one of many creative collabora- Anita O’Toole for her team. ()-5'?85'()"'4,5('U8.89-8.'*$,"".' tions by the pair. Anne has designed Gersha Phillips, The Mortal Awards nomination for the designer 8##'%6'R"5&%.5K'5)%,('4#&5'8.9'-5' Instruments: City of Bones who has already won a Gemini and thrilled to see it all come together. For this modern day fantasy set in received four nominations for her Q)"'UR'8#5%'4.-5)"9'?%,;'%.'()"' NYC, CD Gersha Phillips designed work on La Femme Nikita. Drew comedy drama Working The Engels a stylized look with a downtown also designed the wardrobe for the staring Andrea Martin to be broad- edge for each tribe in her troupe award winning series Flashpoint. cast on NBC primetime this year. At of supernatural characters. Among CBC’s Cracked now in its second the end of February, Anne begins the CAFTCAD members on her season, challenged CD Brenda work on Regression7'8'6"8(<,"'4#&'=L' crew were ACD Kim Harkness, Broer and her team to wardrobe Alejandro Amenábar. The psycho- Supervisor Sheila Pruden, BG the cast of this psychological crime logical thriller stars Ethan Hawke. Coordinator Lindsay Jacobs, Buyer series without resorting to stereo- Honorary CAFTCAD member Roslyn Hanchard and sewer Tara types. The show follows the “Psych Juul Haalmeyer is the subject McLeod. Crimes Unit” – a team of cops and of a feature length documentary psychiatric professionals who investi- =L'4#&&8;",'a,-.'b$b-$)8"#D Juul gate crimes perpetrated by individu- Haalmeyer: The Movie being shopped als with mental health issues, from BESPOKE BESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 P.19
to broadcasters now, covers this CAFTCAD’s Alicia Krost is cur- politics and race in Philadelphia’s Emmy award winning costume rently working on The Social, which justice system. Staring Nia Long and designer’s four decades long career. debuted last fall. The CTV’s one-hour Clarke Peters, the AMC show will The creator of the look of SCTV’s TV talk show produced by Bell Media 8-,'%.'!a(A'85'()"-,'4,5('5$,-+("9' hilarious cast of characters and the In-House Productions covers cur- drama series. Antoinette assembled legendary Juul Haalmeyer Dancers, rent events, pop-culture and lifestyle a seasoned group of CAFTCAD Juul has dressed everyone from Jack from a Canadian perspective. The members: Sheila Pruden, Jay Du Lemmon, to Phyllis Diller and Ike and veteran stylist wardrobes four of Boisson, Sheryl Willock, Laura Tina Turner. Toronto’s most recognizable on-air Montgomery and Urs Dierker to Winnipeg-based CD Patti personalities: Melissa Grelo, Cynthia deal with the challenges of a tight Henderson most recently worked Loyst, Lainey Lui and Traci Melchor. schedule for a large ensemble cast, on the soon-to-be-released thriller Alicia also styles some of the show’s block shooting, and re-shoots of the Joy Ride 3 for Fox last year. Currently guests and the occasional fashion pilot. the Gemini and Canadian Screen segment. Canadian Screen Awards nominee Awards nominee is renting her covet- New CAFTCAD (Professional) mem- Gersha Phillips’ diverse projects able collection of vintage clothing, ber Cyana Madsen hit Toronto’s include the highly acclaimed House accessories and home decor to both wealth of vintage stores for Even the of Cards with Kevin Spacey and Robin ()"8(,"'8.9'-.9-"'4#&'+,%S"$(5'8.9'-5' Horses Had Wings. It’s familiar terrain Wright. As CD on Black Nativity, the focusing on her online etsy shop at for the CD who counts The Chief “gospel musical about a family re- www.wildwoodrosevintage.etsy.com. Salvage and A HomeRun as two of uniting at Christmas” Gersha shot in Alex Kavanagh is currently doing )",'68A%<,-("')8<.(5D'Q)"'5)%,('4#&' Times Square, NYC and found herself custom breakdown and dyeing from required a search for old school uni- getting goose bumps hearing stars )",'5(<9-%D'a8$)'+,%S"$('-5'9-B",".(' form pieces for her lead, and shop- Forest Whitaker, Angela Bassett, depending on the type of fabric and ping vintage helped with budgetary Jennifer Hudson and Mary J. Blige Alex notes that many projects have challenges. Now in London, England sing during their dream sequences. ,"V<-,"9')",'(%'?%,;'?-()'9-G$<#(' Cyana is currently studying Bespoke Having just wrapped on Life directed fabric. The CD has previously con- tailoring at Newham College. Before by Anton Corbijn, Gersha had the en- ducted many of CAFTCAD’s popu- her departure she served as Photo viable task of dressing leads Robert lar Breakdown Seminars and has Editor on this edition of BeSpoke. Pattinson and Dane DeHaan (James widened her client base to include Antoinette Messam served as Dean) in the drama that covers the breakdown for Set Dec and Props CD on The Divide an hour-long legal relationship between James Dean Departments as well as Costumes. drama that explores morality, ethics, and photographer Dennis Stock. CAFTCAD Industry member Linda Petty (Berman & Co.) was Costume Supervisor on the show. CD Luis Sequira continues a demanding but rewarding sched- ule on Guillermo Del Toro’s The Strain. Assisted by a dedicated CAFTCAD crew, which includes ACD Lindsay Jacobs, CS, Suzanne Alpin, CB Nathalie Gysel, Cutter Tamiyo Tomihiro, 1st hand Sewer Wing Lee, BG Coordinator Sarah Armstrong, and Urs Dierker. The F/X production is a stylized vampire horror and investigative crime show, both graphic and gruesome. Silvana Sacco, Key Textile Artist & Dyer, ap- plies her technical wizardry to the BESPOKE BESPOKE P.20 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4
ageing, distressing and dyeing of crew. The web series premier- “In 1978 women’s wear had moved the leading character, The Master’s, ing in February is based on a true into what we think of as the ‘80s, but wardrobe. story about a quartet of Wall Street men’s had not”. Stylist Richard Singh joined secretaries - masterminds behind a Delphine White, wrapped CAFTCAD shortly after attending e%.>-'5$)"&"'85'=-/'85'b89%BK5D'*"(' Poltergeist before the holidays. The November’s Breakdown Seminar. in 1978 the CD’s research brought CD is now “smelling the roses and The accomplished stylist and de- valuable insight to fashion transitions learning digital painting”. signer recently returned to Toronto between decades. Says Syrokomla after spending 10 years in NYC often collaborating with the iconic fashion and portrait photographer Hiro. His work includes two global advertising campaigns to promote the Elsa Peretti Jewellery Collection 6%,'Q-B8.L'c'U%D'd%?'8'+",&-((""' with IATSE 873, Richard is interested in investigating more opportunities ?-()-.'()"'()"8(,"7'4#&'8.9'("#"A-5-%.' community. CD Barbara Somerville has rejoined CAFTCAD. Spotted at the opening night of A Conversation with Edith Head, Barbara is enjoying some down time after “surviving” four seasons as CD on Nikita, she said jokingly. Joining CAFTCAD during its early years but stepping away due to the demands of work and family, she is happy to return citing CAFTCAD as a “brilliant platform from which to network and share experiences”. This year she is a nominee for the 2014 Virginia and Myrtle Cooper Award in Costume Design – Film and Television. Since assuming the role of CAFTCAD president last summer, Joanna Syrokomla has been on point on every initiative from the Movie Wardrobe Sale, to last year’s TIFF and members’ Christmas party. As the driving force behind the Canadian premiere of A Conversation With Edith Head7'UJ@QUJRK5'+,%4#"' has increased with the general public and local media, resulting in three sold-out performances. The ever tireless CD also found time to design Whatever, Linda with ACD Billie Blast and an all-CAFTCAD wardrobe BESPOKE BESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 P.21
MEET A MEMBER:
AMANDA BONE 5$-X4'8.9'$%&-$5D'U%&-$XU%.'8.9' Halloween are her two favourite Amanda is from a small town out- times of year because she’s usually side Thunder Bay. She attended ".#-5("9'(%'&8;"'#%(5'%6'9-B",".(' Blanche MacDonald Centre for costumes. Fashion Design in Vancouver, where Amanda joined CAFTCAD in 2012 she studied fashion history from the after reading about the organiza- 1100s to the present. The curriculum tion online. She has costume design also gave her the opportunity to "T+",-".$"'%.'5)%,('-.9-"'4#&5'8.9' acquire many practical skills such as music videos, and has volunteered pattern drafting, sewing techniques as a costume designer/ set supervi- for both machine and hand sew- sor for the CFC. She has been a per- ing, dyeing, alterations, tailoring, mittee of IATSE 873 since October and garment construction. Amanda 012f7'=<('L%<'$8.'8#5%'4.9')",'%.5"(' graduated in 2009 with an award in as a background performer. She Niche Market Design and moved to enjoys all aspects of the costume Toronto shortly after. She started department from background coor- Baudelaire, her own clothing line for dinating to costume designing. girls like her, who are into horror,
SARA BRZOZOWSKI starring Colm Feore. She is thrilled (%'="'S%-.-./'()"'4#&'$%&&<.-(L'8.9' Even before she could sew Sara has is anticipating an exciting summer in been designing costumes – Barbie’s Toronto! ?","')",'4,5('&%9"#5D'J'685)-%.'8,(5' background quickly brought her to The Stratford Festival as a wardrobe apprentice, seamstress and then as an assistant costume designer for productions that include Blithe Spirit, Waiting for Godot, Cymbeline, and Richard III. Elsewhere she has held that title for Hair at Randolph Theatre and most recently The Wedding Singer the Musical at Hart House Theatre. Throughout theatres -.'W.(8,-%'*8,8')85'4##"9'()"',%#"' of a seamstress, milliner, cobbler, breakdown artist and most recently as a costume buyer for Evil Dead the Musical at Randolph Theatre. She is Corset the assistant design coordinator of Making Stratford’s 2014 Visitors Guide. Currently, Sara is in her sixth Supplies season at Stratford as the assistant costume designer for King Lear, BESPOKE BESPOKE P.22 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4
CAFTCAD President Joanna Syrokomla (left), CAFTCAD Members Jennifer Bunt, Sam Rice, Susan Claassen (left) & Nicole Manek in the Life of Director PR Special Events for Roots Canada Opheila Liu, Bernadette Croft & Alexandria Manek window at the ‘A Conversation with Edith Raymond Perkins & CAFTCAD Vice President Goldman at the ‘A Conversation with Edith Head’ Head’ press party. Loretta Chin at the Roots Holiday Event. press party. Photo by John Currid Photo by John Currid Photo by Riley Found
Daniela Syrovy President of Clutch PR (left), Maxine Susan Claassen as Edith Head & Anna Dal Farra at CAFTCAD Members Alex Kavanagh, Ian Drummond Bailey from TIFF & Zuzana Syrovy from Clutch PR at ‘A Conversation with Edith Head’ Opening Night. & Monique Prudhomme at CAFTCAD Celebrates the ‘A Conversation with Edith Head’ press party. Canadian Costume at TIFF Event. Photo by John Currid Photo by John Currid Photo by Riley Found
Deborah Ingram (left) from The Bay & Anya Joanna Syrokomia at opening night of ‘A Antoinette Messam and Loretta Chin at The Roots Taraboulsy at the Roots Holiday Event. Conversation With Edith Head’. Holiday Party. Photo by John Currid Photo by John Currid Photo by John Currid
CAFTCAD CALENDAR OF EVENTS JUNE 21ST & 22ND CAFTCADEMY 101 Email MAY 31ST [email protected] for more information. TIE ONE ON Movie Wardrobe Sale. Wine and Cheese tie and cravat tying event P%$8(-%.'(%'="'$%.4,&"9D'I.(","5("9'-.' Thursday May 22nd. being a vendor? Email [email protected]. SEPTEMBER 9TH 222 Islington Ave, 7-9 pm. CAFTCAD Celebrates Costumes in Film & TV at the Toronto International Film Festival.
CAFTCAD CALENDAR OF EVENTS
BESPOKE BESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 P.23 CAFTCAD MEMBERS LIST Although we strive for accuracy in our membership list, due to our bi-annual publication schedule there may be some omissions. Please feel free to let us know and we will happily amend in our next issue. - The BeSpoke Committee HONORARY Lori Gardner Silvana Sacco Richard Singh Sophie Lennox-King Juul Haalmeyer Shannon Pomakov Stuart Farndell Martha Mann Suzanne Aplin Olga Dimitrov Tara McLeod PROFESSIONAL Tamiyo Tomihiro COSTUME DESIGNER Adam Smith Urs Dierker Alexandra Boulitzi Alex Kavanagh Wing Lee Alexandria Goldman Anne Dixon Amanda Bone Antoinette Messam Anita Bacic Anya Taraboulsy COSTUME INDUSTRY Anita O’Toole Brenda Broer SUPPORT Anna-Claude Biron Barbara Sommervile Berman and Co. Ltd. Barbara de Kat Debra Hanson Costume Period Rentals Billie Blast Delphine White Kelly-Francis Costumes Inc. Christina Barry Eydi Caines-Floyd Liberty Wardrobe Rental House Danielle Jarrett-Fisch Georgina Yarhi Martino Nguyen Designs Deborah Burton Gersha Phillips Theatrix Donna Martin Joanna Syrokomla Wotever Inc. Elizabeth Marics Joyce Schure Erika Larner Kristen O’Reilly E8.."'!)-(4"#9 Laura Montgomery BUSINESS Jane Flanders Laurie Drew Carol Tanenbaum Janice Skinner Lea Carlson IATSE 873 Jeana MacDougall Luis Sequeira Izzy Camilleri Jennifer Bunt Marya Duplaga Nobis Inc. Julianna Clarke Melissa Stewart Tom’s Place Katrina Carrier Nicole Manek Freda’s Karynah Zeh Patrick Antosh Stunt Bumpers Kimberly Catton Sarah Armstrong Quagliera Kingpin (Jonathan Hagey) Shelley Mansell Leonie Reid Leslie Kavanagh AFFILIATE ASSISTANT COSTUME Lindsay Jacobs Eve English Lindsay Walker Gwendolyn Anderson DESIGNER Madeline Brian Iris Simpson Anna Dal Farra Miranda Lukaniuk-Lipovsek Kathleen Pattinson Bernadette Croft d8.$L'F,8.4"#9 Kim Harkness Ian Drummond Nathalie Gysel Marion Ferneyhough Jay Du Boisson Nola Chaters Patricia Thoun Marie Grogan-Hales Ofelia Liu Sally Han d8.$L'F,8.4"#9 Raelene Worthington Roslyn Hanchard Richard Crossman Sheila Pruden Ritta Koleva SATELLITE Vickey Saito Rosemary Della Serra Glenne Campbell Samantha Rice Kate Hawley Sandra Ardagna Monique Prudhomme STYLIST Sara Brzozowski Patricia Henderson Adrian Fulop Sarah Goodwin Alexis Honce Sara Schilt Alisa Krost Sherri-Lynn Lawrence STUDENTS Beverly Law Sheryl Willock Ashley Lotecki Loretta Chin Sidney Sproule Jessica Chambers MVP-TomGenBespokeFP_02-14_- 2014-03-06 3:57 PM Page 1
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