BESPOKEBESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 VINTAGE ISSUE EXIT COPPER LET IT REIGN KATE HAWLEY ON GUILLERMO DEL TORO’S CRIMSON PEAK STEAMPUNK & INTAGE A GOOD V IND IS HARD TO F BESPOKE BESPOKE P. 2 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 Editor-in-Chief Contributors: THE VINTAGE ISSUE Loretta Chin Jennifer Bunt !"#$%&"'(%'()"'*+,-./'0123'4,5(' Amanda Bone Vintage issue of BeSpoke, our news- Story Editor Loretta Chin letter that celebrates our alliance of Kristen O’Reilly Bernadette Croft 100 plus members and showcases Urs Dierker the talents of our members’ creativ- Copy Editor Ian Drummond ity and craft. Straddling the worlds Kim Harkness Alexandria Goldman %6'4#&7'685)-%.'8.9'9"5-/.7':"*+%;"' Kim Harkness features interesting and relevant sto- Art & Advertising Adam Smith ries on the work of both seasoned Urs Dierker Joanna Syrokomla and neophyte talents, embracing the craft from both artistic and technical Advertising CAFTCAD perspectives with a much needed Jennifer Kelly 65 Heward Ave Building C #223 sense of humour and fondness for Toronto ON M4M 2T5 the medium we’ve chosen to work in. Graphic Design 416 900 0955 This is our vehicle to create aware- Macroblu [email protected] ness for what we do at home and [email protected] for the international community. Photo Editor We’d like to showcase the works of Cyana Madsen Correction: In the Portfolio section each and every one of you, so stay of the last BeSpoke Issue (Issue #5 involved, reach out and let us know Fall 2013) Ritta Koleva’s name was what you are doing. We hope you misspelled. We apologize for the enjoy the issue! oversight. BESPOKE BESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 14 P. 3 LET IT REIGN By Kim Harkness Image courtesy of M3 These days Toronto is a hotbed for 4(5'()"'=-##'85'-('6""#5'#-;"'8'&%9",.' sexy and alluring. Naughty yet period series and features. Although historical romance novel come to elegant. Outdated in our everyday Copper has exited, Murdoch Mysteries life. The series chronicles the rise <5"7'%<,'#%A"'8B8-,'?-()'()"&'-5'68,' is now in its seventh season, the fea- to power of Mary Queen of Scots from over, as many designers like (<,"'4#&5'Crimson Peak and Life are in when she arrives in France. It’s highly Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, production, and Reign, the Favourite 4$(-%.8#->"97'?-()'8'&%9",.'5$%,"' and Vivienne Westwood are known New TV Series winner at the People’s and period-inspired wardrobe. The for them. Choice Awards, has been awarded a show details the secret of survival at Reign’s costume designer Meredith second season. It must be a sign of @,".$)'$%<,('8&-95('4",$"'6%"57'98,;' Markworth-Pollack has crafted stun- what’s on our collective minds – if it’s forces and a world of sexual intrigue. ning costumes that pay tribute to not vampires, werewolves and the It’s a coming of age story – universal, historical accuracy with liberal doses zombie apocalypse, we’re looking timeless, with a more regal wardrobe of modern sensibility. Where Copper back where there’s plenty of treach- than the average Jane. worked hard at being true to the ery and intrigue - at least there is in The wardrobe on Reign pays trib- period, Reign is more interpretive in the historical stories being portrayed ute to the real France of 1564 with costume design. Just as Hollywood on the screen. a contemporary twist. It showcases in its glory days (all those Edith Head CW, who broadcasts Reign, is a pretty girls in corsets with metal- shows) was forward thinking of cur- network that targets a female audi- lic details that were certainly not of rent styles, Meredith has been grant- ence from 18-34 year olds. Reign that time. The corset: restrictive, ed similar freedom, albeit altering a BESPOKE BESPOKE P. 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 Images courtesy of M3 vision of the past instead of pushing on Film International Festival in Steampunk movement to shows like the present into the future. Southern California for the Bravo Game of Thrones, Downton Abbey, Meredith has a history with both Fact short she designed called Rosie The Tudors and Mad Men (to name period and pretty shows, having de- Takes the Train, a character study that just a few), audiences continue to be signed a pilot called Valley Girls set in “follows the life of Rosie from the fascinated with history - or at least the 1980s as well a web series called 1930s up to the present day.” 8'4$(-(-%<5',".9",-./'%6'-(D'E%?"A",' Stupid Hype set in the 90s. She was On Reign, fabrics and costume tied up in the politics of 1550s also the ACD on Gossip Girls for two stock have been sourced throughout France a viewer might be, it’s hard seasons where NYC never looked Europe and North America. “Tirelli not to imagine that a large part of prettier serving as the central char- Costumi (Italy) and Angels of London the draw is visual. Whether you pick acter alongside the privileged Upper (England) costume houses have up on the contemporary elements East Side kids who took fashion very been our main contributors however of the wardrobe or not is beside the seriously and made Manhattan their the Stratford Theatre (Ontario) has point. If you never question it, even playground. also provided great stock for the better. It’s the sign of the success- ACD Leslie Kavanagh (CAFTCAD show.” Some challenges have been ful hands of the designer and the member) says, “we always try to C4.9-./'()"',-/)('A-.(8/"'$#%()"5'(%' costume department. keep the feel and vibe of the true use as elements of the costume that In period shows costume design period but bring it to a more con- pair well with our in-house builds,” can be both historically accurate temporary place where today’s audi- she adds. “We build over 50% of the and imaginative through the creative ence can really relate to it.” She also costumes, almost all for our hero interpretations of designers. As gar- reveals that “the female cast have all players and some for our day players ments from the distant past disinte- really learned to love corsets!” or specialty looks, such as soldiers. grate, shows in the future will consist Leslie has a history with period As always, footwear has been of entire costumes that blend true shows herself. “Total Recall and problematic. They just don’t seem to period with the artistic inspirations Robocop were both futuristic and make tall leather boots for men they of costume designers. And on that dealt with specialty costumes,” she way they do for women.” day we’ll have to say that true period says. Recently, Leslie won a Best While we’re not watching the shows are a thing of the past. Costume Design Award at the Action History Channel, it’s clear from the BESPOKE BESPOKE ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 ISSUE #6, SPR I N G 2 0 1 4 P. 5 PERIOD CLOTHING & THE MODERN BODY By Urs Dierker “I really found the clothing very (,L'9-B",".('5(L#"57O'P%,"".'58L5D' restrictive,” British actress Anastasia Michel adds, “You’re more visual in F,-G()'89&-(("9'-.'8.'-.(",A-"?' your results.” Delphine explains, “The about the series Copper. “It imposed cutter certainly is the person which a lot on me insofar as how I would has more to do with the design of carry myself and how I would even the costume, than anybody else in breathe and talk and move.” How the department. You know, as a de- then, do you cut a period garment signer, you may have as many ideas for a modern body, especially when, as you want but unless you have a in 1860 a corset was mandatory for good crew these designs won’t come <++",'$#855'?%&".H'I('9"4."9'()"-,' to fruition. I love working coopera- silhouette. tively with a cutter and enjoy input- Loreen Lightfoot was the cutter on ting their feedback into the costume.” Copper in the initial season. “In the It’s not very common for patterns 4,5('5"85%.'%6'Copper this restric- to survive a show but there’s a huge (-%.'4('J.85(85-8'F,-G()K5'$)8,8$(",' pile of Copper patterns hanging in (Elisabeth Haverford),” she says. the CAFTCAD library. There are pat- Loreen and Michel Proulx, who was terns for men’s pants, jackets, and the second season cutter, share sim- shirts and women’s dresses from ilar experiences while cutting period the 1860s in New York City. The costumes for a contemporary female four cutters on the series - Nancy body. “An actor has to learn how Dasilva, Loreen Lightfoot, Michel to wear a period costume. At that Proulx and Ahmad Zargaran, com- time, they were not moving like we piled the patterns. Delphine do- do today. You could not raise your nated the patterns and two years of arm, like in a t-shirt,” Michel explains. research to the CAFTCAD library to Loreen continues, “Bodies are so allow for the study of “how clothing 9-B",".('(%98L'6,%&'8')<.9,"9'L"8,5' went together back then”, bearing in 8/%D'I'9,86('8'+8((",.'(%'4('8'&%9",.' mind the realities of drafting for the body placing the lines so that we contemporary body.