Wine Grapes for New York's North Country
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Research News from Cornell’s Viticulture and Enology Program Research Focus 2017-2 Research Focus Wine Grapes for New York's North Country: The Willsboro Cold Climate Variety Trial Anna Wallis1, Tim Martinson2, Lindsey Pashow3, Richard Lamoy4, and Kevin Lungerman3 1Eastern NY Commercial Horticulture Program, Cornell Cooperative Extension, Plattsburg, NY 2Section of Horticulture, School of Integrative Plant Sciences, NYS Agricultural Experiment Station, Geneva, NY 3Harvest NY, Cornell Coop. Extension 4Hid-In-Pines Vineyard, Morrisonville, NY Key Concepts • Cold-climate grape & wine production is a new industry in the North Country of New York, made possible by cold-climate variet- ies introduced in the mid-1990s. • Twenty-four varieties were evaluated over seven years at the Cornell Willsboro Re- search Farm in NY for their suitability to the North Country of NY. • All varieties survived winters with no vine February 2015. Research vineyard at the Cornell Willsboro Research Farm during mortality or trunk injury and only modest dormant pruning. Photo by Anna Wallis bud injury. • Yields were economically viable and prun- In response to interest in wine grape production in the Cham- ing weights were in range for adequate vine plain and Upper Hudson River region of Northern New York, size. Kevin Iungerman of the Northestern New York Fruit Extension • Quality metrics fell within the recommend- Program established a grape variety trial at the Willsboro Re- ed range in six of the seven years. Soluble search Farm, on the southwestern shores of Lake Champlain. solids tend to be low for this site compared Twenty-four varieties, including 14 cold-hardy “University of to other regions. Minnesota” and “Swenson” cultivars and 10 Cornell and stan- • The Willsboro planting is at an exceptional dard hybrid cultivars were planted in 2005. Over seven harvests site. Commercial vineyards in the region from 2008 to 2014, we observed no vine mortality, and winter have experienced colder temperatures and bud injury was mostly under 20%. Overall average yield across shorter seasons resulting in less favorable varieties was 20.5 lb/vine, or 5.3 T/acre at 544 vines per acre vine growth and fruit quality. (10 by 8 ft vine spacing). Except in 2009, fruit composition fell • At commercial sites, the cold climate Min- mostly in acceptable ranges for brix, pH, and titratable acidity. nesota and Swenson cultivars would likely These results provide a benchmark for potential growers, dem- perform well. But standard hybrids and onstrating that profitable yields are possible at exceptional sites Cornell varieties are more cold sensitive, in the region. At sites further inland, lower winter minimum and would likely suffer sustained and fre- temperatures will limit variety choice to the 'cold-climate' cul- quent winter injury at most Northern NY tivars. sites. Research Focus 2017-2: Cornell Viticulture and Enology 1 Introduction. The introduction of cold-climate Table 1: Description of 24 grape varieties from the Cornell Willsboro grape varieties starting in the mid-1990s made Research Farm cold climate variety trial. grape and wine production possible for the first time in many cold-climate regions in the US, in- Category1 Color Variety Name Hardiness2 Origin3 cluding the North Country of New York. These Cold Hardy Red Frontenac below -20 UMN varieties include selections primarily from the Marquette below -20 UMN breeding programs of Elmer Swenson, the Uni- versity of Minnesota (UMN), and Cornell’s New MN 1200 below -20 UMN York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Sabrevois below -20 Swenson Geneva, NY (Cornell). St. Croix below -20 Swenson In response to industry interest in the Champlain Cold Hardy White Adalmiina below -20 Swenson region, fruit specialist Kevin Iungerman set up a mixed variety planting of 24 standard and cold- Edelweiss -10 to -15 UMN/Swenson hardy hybrid grape cultivars (Table 1) at Cor- Frontenac Gris below -20 UMN nell’s Willsboro Research Farm, on the Western La Crescent below -20 UMN shore of Lake Champlain (Fig. 1). La Crosse -15 to -20 Swenson The planting, established in 2005, was designed Louise Swenson below -20 Swenson with two goals: The first goal was to test the per- formance of these varieties in the specific climate Petite Amie below -20 D. McGregor in Northeastern New York to provide recom- Prairie Star below -20 Swenson mendations to potential growers. The other goal St. Pepin -15 to -20 Swenson was to provide those interested in learning how to growing grapes with a site where they could Standard Hybrid Red Baco Noir -10 to -15 French hybrid participate in pruning, harvesting, and in some Geneva Red below -20 Cornell cases making small lots of wine out of the grapes Landot Noir -10 to -15 French hybrid harvested at Willsboro. To that end, volunteers were enlisted to help manage field activities at Leon Millot -15 to -20 French hybrid the site. Maréchal Foch -15 to -20 French hybrid Starting with the first crop in 2008, we collected Noiret -5 to -15 Cornell seven years of data on phenology (timing of dif- Standard Hybrid White Aromella -10 to -15 Cornell ferent growth stages), pruning weight, winter in- Cayuga White -10 to -15 Cornell jury, yield, and fruit composition. Results at this site were surprising. Almost all varieties pro- Niagara -10 to -15 Native duced economic yields in many years, suffered Vignoles -10 to -15 French hybrid only modest levels of winter injury, and ripened 1Described in terms of hardiness. 'Cold Hardy': cultivars bred specifically for Cold to acceptable levels of maturity in most years. Climates and hardy below -20F, 'Standard Hybrid': other varieties (traditional We attribute this success to the unique meso- French-American hybrids and other interspecific hybrids) climate of the Willsboro site, including well- 2As reported in release bulletins and 'A Review of Cold Climate Grape Cultivars' drained soils, excellent sunlight exposure, and published by Iowa State Extension. http://www.extension.iastate.edu/viticulture/ water-moderated climate due to the site's prox- cold-climate-cultivars imity to Lake Champlain. Because moderation of 3Breeding program or general origin. UMN=University of Minnesota; Swenson= extreme winter low temperatures extends only a Elmer Swenson; French Hybrid = product of one of several European breeding pro- short distance from the lake (perhaps a mile or grams, early to mid-1900s; D. McGregor less), we expect that only a subset of the more cold-hardy varieties will be suitable for produc- regions due to water moderation by the Lakes, and soils tion in most of the region. are the product of glacial till, ranging from heavy clay to sandy loam with various degrees of fertility. This is not Grape and Wine Production in the North Country of an appropriate climate for production of traditional wine New York. The grape and wine industry in New York’s grapes (Vitis vinifera or many standard Labrusca or tradi- north country is located in two narrow regions north of tional hybrid wine varieties), but it is suitable for cold- Albany and Syracuse, running north-south between the climate varieties. Adirondack Mountains and Lake Champlain in the East and between the Adirondacks and Lake Ontario on the Since the introduction of cold climate hybrids in the mid- West. Winter temperatures regularly reach lows of -20 to 1990s, the grape industry in the New York's North Coun- -30°F and the growing season is extremely short with less try has grown from almost zero acres of vineyards in pro- than 170 frost free days and 2000 growing degree days duction to over 200 acres, 67 commercial operations, and (GDD). The climate is more temperate than surrounding 32 licensed wineries, with continuous growth and several more winery licenses currently pending. 2 Research Focus 2017-2: Cornell Viticulture and Enology The majority of production is located in three distinct regions: the Champlain Val- ley or Adirondack coast region (Clinton and Essex Counties), the Upper Hud- son Valley region (Saratoga, Washington, Rensselaer, and Albany Counties), and the Thousand Islands Region (Jefferson, Lewis and St. Lawrence Counties) each with as- sociated wine trails and associations. In September 2016, the ‘ChamplainA Valley of NY’ was designated as the state’s newest American Viticultural Area (AVA) and is the first cold climate AVA in the state. Pro- ducers in the Upper Hudson Valley have also submitted a petition to create an AVA Figure 1. The Willsboro grape variety trial is located at Cornell's Willsboro for this region, which is expected to be ap- Research Farm located on the west shore of Lake Champlain. proved in spring 2017. Photos from Google Earth Despite this growth, there has been a lack Other varieties were chosen from the UMN and the Cor- of variety recommendations for the North Country of nell grape breeding programs, two of the oldest and well- NY based on replicated field testing. Growers have D E recognized inF the country. made vine selections based on recommendations from other regions, and personal trial and error. The UMN program was launched in 1908 and revitalized in the late 1970s with the goal of developing high-quality, Willsboro Research Planting. To address this need, the cold-hardy, and disease resistant grape cultivars. Its first Willsboro cold climate grape variety trial was estab- cold-hardy grape vine, Frontenac, was released in 1996. lished in Spring 2005 by Kevin Iungerman, CCE Region- al Specialist, Steven Lerch, research support specialist The Cornell-Geneva Grape Breeding Program has existed for Dr. Justine Vanden Heuvel’s program, and many since the early 1900s. Since release of its first wine grape volunteers from the industry. The ~0.6 acre plot is lo- Cayuga White in 1972, it has released eleven wine grape cated on the Cornell Willsboro Research Farm, formerly cultivars – seven since 1996.