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091 Ft German Wine Trail DAN.Indd � Travel Germany � For intense enjoyment, Gary Blake recommends... The Rhine & � its wine Intense enjoyment: a vineyard, a campervan and a glass of something fruity ith a smattering of knowledge on German wines from evening to pick up freshly-baked baguettes for lunch en route. classes, where we’d learned that there was a lot more to As we eased onto the German motorway system, Classic FM aptly Wthem than the cheap, low-quality plonk specially blended for delivered some Bach and I relaxed into the mood, advancing the cruise the UK market 30 years ago, and that there had been a run of good control from Belgium’s 110kph limit to 130kph, the limit for German roads. vintages since 2006, we decided this might be a good time to Heading along the E40 (Autobahn 4), with our early start we were rediscover German wines. well on our way and decided to exit at Koblenz, the apex of the Rhine And what better vehicle to do it in than Volkswagen’s latest take and Mosel River valleys and journey along the Rhine, before picking up on the campervan, the T5-based California? A far cry from my wife, our route again on the E31 (A61) at Bingen. Wendy’s T1 Splitty or my T2 Bay Window, this was a twentyfirst century We saw the mighty Rhine at close quarters with medieval towns, VeeDub with two-litre turbo-diesel engine, hydraulic roof lift, and wine-growing villages, as well as the fortresses commanding high commodious fridge, heated captain’s seats, satnav, and no fewer than ground on the steep-sided gorges. three batteries to keep everything running. Swiss, Dutch and German river barges ploughed through the swift Sadly, no loo, which proved to be a problem from time to time. Still, currents along their 766-mile journey from the Alps to the North Sea. its car-like driving compensated and the provision of a Thule roof-box It was the time of wine festivals here too, with RVs and motorhomes helped soak up our kit. So we set off for a week on the wine trail, parked in their hundreds in stellplätze (German camper stops, often taking in the largest wine festival in the world at Bad Dürkheim. free and run by the councils). Wendy and I set off on a Friday night, for an easy run to Black But Bad Dürkheim was our destination and the satnav located our Horse Farm Caravan Club Site, Folkestone, so we could rest before campsite in the dark. This superb site had 580 motorhome/caravan our 7:00am Eurotunnel crossing the next day. pitches, a lake and first-class showers, which the German users made sure were kept clean. Saturday Enjoying croissants, coffee and newspapers at our own table, we Sunday crossed below the seabed in 35 minutes and set off for the festival, We opted for an easy stroll to the wine festival. There was a bus 391 miles (629km) and a 5.5-hour drive from Calais on the spacious service from the site too, butModern most German of our winesGerman are motorhoming fresh and elegant motorways of Europe – but first pulled into the village of Gravelines, confederates seemed to be using the cycle paths. ▲ www.outandaboutlive.co.uk APRIL 2012 I 91 Travel Germany 1 Looking through the vineyards to the Mosel 2 A typical all-day street festival of wine and music � in Neumagen-Dhron 3 The medieval village of St Martin offers a beautiful free stellplatz 4 This cheese stall in Neumagen- Dhron was enough to make anyone’s mouth water 5 Wine ‘jam’ 6 Wine and oysters in Trier Tuesday A visit to the Vinegar Winery at nearby Doktorenhof surprised us with the revelation that vinegar can made into a liqueur-like drink - using a 150-year-old bottle of yeast. The ‘wine walk with art’ took us round neat vineyards with themed steel sculptures. Occasional� seating areas around the art allowed sampling of wine and invited thoughtful discussions. I started to ponder on the German psyche. I think ‘intense enjoyment’ sums it up. So much cycling, hiking, intellectualising of pursuits. Next stop, Bad Bergzabern and the ultra modern Weingut Hitziger estate where we enjoyed another wine tasting and a case of rose was slipped into the VW boot, then a drive to the Wine Gate for a dinner at The trip Deutsches Weintor’s restaurant for excellent modern German cuisine. ■ 1 Easy drive and easy to plan/arrange, all local tourists boards very helpful and keen 3 The prefix Bad to a name in Germany means Spa, from Roman for UK visitors times. We visited Bad Bergzabern’s Sudpfalz Therme that evening - its ■ Wine/food link. They call it the Romantic Trail three mineral pools with water at over 30 degrees and saunas seemed ■ Many delicious quality wines to sample and cheap to buy the perfect relaxer for a driving holiday. ■ Beautiful cycle paths along the Mosel. Bicycles with large wheels best to cover the Later we took an €8 ground just next to the eleventh century castle. Visitors come for the inspiring (£6.80) taxi ride back. Bad ■ See the Mosel from high aspect on vineyard walks. Take your walking boots hilltop views but it’s also the spiritual home of modern German 2 ■ Wednesday Dürkheim, located in Total distance travelled: 1,482 miles (average 28mpg) democracy. The story can be traced in a well-documented exhibition Halfway now and turning north, driving fast to our second wine trail, Rhineland Palatinate, is one on the top floor. To end the day we moved on to the delightful Gothic along the Mosel. The Mosel Rieslings grown on the steep slopes, at of the largest wine-growing The wine medieval village of St Martin nestled on the foothill slopes. The village 90 degrees to the sun, are considered the finest in the world thanks regions in the country. Top wine estates almost all use the Riesling grape, which they have perfected. Wines offers a beautiful stellplatz (free parking, right in the centre but no loo). to their terroir, a word we heard every day now. The soils here consist Officially called range through trocken (dry) kabinett (medium-dry), spätlese (medium), auslese (sweet), Rather than miss this beautiful spot we checked into Consulat des of slate and sandstone beds, giving the wine a delicate, subtle taste. Wurstmarkt (sausage fair), beerenauslese (very sweet) to eiswein (incredibly sweet dessert wine, made from Weines - a wine hotel with its own weinstube (wine tavern) in the cellar. But it wasn’t all driving. We couldn’t resist the sign at a snail farm grapes which have been left to freeze on the vine) the 600-year-old festival is We enjoyed a tasting of red wines at Alfons Ziegler before a walk at Schneckenfarm Pfalzschnecke in the village of Grünstadt-Asselheim famous for its celebration of around the village, noticing wine artisan features carved over doors offering snail tasting. excellent local wines. Here and learning about their patron saint, followed by dinner at one of the Intense enjoyment again, I smiled to myself at Mr Chalier’s speech you can try over 150 wines - 28 restaurants, the Weinhausel. to us on the savoury destinies for each of the snails. He seemed to from fine Rieslings to Now filled with nourishing and tasty Palatinate refreshing ice wines, served delicacy pork, sweet chestnuts, spices and in beer glasses! German potatoes (and the pig casing) it is complemented wines are fresher, more by local Palatinate Riesling. elegant and lower in alcohol Germany’s former Chancellor, Helmut Kohl, born 4 5 than new world wines. in this region, presented this, his favourite dish, with pride to the Queen. There’s a superb fairground (rides I had never seen the likes of What she made of it, we know not. before) and dancing to live bands. However, the main attraction of the We had decided to follow the Palatinate Wine Route to its origins, festival are 36 little wine tents - called Schubkärchler (wheelbarrows,) wandering south over the next couple of days sampling wines and because vintners rolled wine barrels on wheelbarrows up to sight-seeing to the Wine Gate in Schweigen-Rechtenbach on the Michelsberg hill to quench pilgrims’ thirst in the fifteenth century. French border adjacent to Wissembourg in France, which marks the Wine connoisseurs and the pubic alike sit together sampling the start or end of the route. wines at long narrow tables. English speaking was minimal as a rule The imposing ceremonial gate starts the wine route, marked by and we felt we were English pioneers in this region, but we were yellow signs with stylized bunches of grapes, ending at the House welcomed everywhere as were the expected half-million-plus visitors of the German Wine Route in Bockenheim, 85km north. from all over the world. Besides wine and plenty of food, the festival Camping was at its finest in Palatinate, the dry, sunny ‘Tuscany of has stalls selling German lace, beautiful dolls and traditional hand Germany’ sheltered from the prevailing winds by mountain ranges on made wooden toys. both sides of the Rhine Valley. To avoid drinking and driving we intended staying in vineyard campsites, as here we could sample wines with, hopefully, the ability Monday to walk home. The seventeenth-century Thirty Years’ War, one of the most destructive Our southern route started at Wiesenweg, 12km south of Bad conflicts in European history, nevertheless led to the invention of a Dürkheim at the Weingut Lucashof estate with a tour of the 80-hectare local delicacy, as we discovered on a visit to the butcher Hambel, estate set around a delightful medieval village.
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