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VIETNAM may 2014
INDOCHINE
The Legacy of COLONIALISM
The Sand Master Colonial Clone How Billions of Le Petit Paris in Dalat Sand Grains Become Art PAGE 66 PAGE 26 The Mother City Tiny Treasures A Must-Read Before Delectable Morsels From Visiting Cape Town Hue and Phan Rang PAGE 69 PAGE 59
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VIETNam may 2014
INDOCHINE
Everywhere you go The Legacy of coLoNIaLISM
ThE SaND maSTER ColoNIal CloNE How Billions of La Petit Paris in Dalat Director Sand Become Art PaGE 66 Xuan Tran PaGE 26 ThE moThER CITy TINy TREaSuRES A Must-Read Before Delectable Morsels From Visiting Cape Town Hue and Phan Rang PaGE 69 Business Consultant robert stockdill PaGE 59 [email protected]
Managing Editor Christine Van 1 [email protected] This Month’s Cover Deputy Editor James Pham Image: Quinn Ryan Mattingly [email protected] Stylist: James Allen Hair & Makeup: Kenny Lieu Researcher George Bond Model: My Dung [email protected] Wardrobe: Linda Mai Phung Associate Publisher khanh nguyen [email protected] Cushions by Very Ngon Homewares, available at L'Usine, Monsoon Bar & Restaurant and other local retailers. See www.facebook. Graphic Artists HIEN NGUYEN com/VeryNgonHomewares [email protected] NGUYEN Pham [email protected]
Staff Photographers adam robert young Ngoc Tran
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4 5 Contents
COVER STORY INDOCHINE From baguettes to banh mi and savon to xa phong, explore the French influences on the Vietnamese culture
34 FEATURES P10 datebook P24 A Symptomatic Approach P66 On the Road Back With these events, you'll never have to be Is self diagnosing at a local pharmacy good for A nostalgic look at a photographer’s road trip bored again your health? back to Dalat
P18 troi oi P26 The Sand Master P69 The Mother City See why 450,000 fingerlings, a 1,000 year-old The unconventional art of sanding painting Gateway to Africa, home to Table Mountain, stele and 8,500 cruise ship tourists made our beaches & wine estates, a Cape Town holiday noteworthy numbers this month should be on your bucket list P32 Smooth Criminal P20 the bulletin From humble beginnings to becoming District 4’s Checking out the latest promotions and major crime boss, meet the notorious Nam Cam openings
6 7 WINE & DINE RESTAURANT REVIEWS Our culinary travels take us from classic Cantonese cuisine to delicious food from Brittany while taking a stopover in Hue and Phan Rang for tasty Vietnamese tapas
47 COLUMNS P80 My Life as… P28 SAIGON MYTHBUSTERS P82 HIGHER LEARNING a Gray Hair Plucker Are Ben Thanh Market’s days numbered? And will Multitasking is more hurtful than helpful when it Before there were hair dying treatments drinking urine cure my illnesses? Find out comes to studying
P90 Children of the Dragon P72 LIFE'S A TRIP P92 LEGAL EASE A charity founded on the belief that true happiness Top tips on when and how to complain when Should you flee or stay if you get into a traffic comes from helping others confronted with bad customer service accident in Vietnam? P74 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM P93 Found 404 Get lost in the essences of Paris while in Hanoi Why Viet Kieus should invest in technology in Vietnam
8 ISSUE NO. 14 Editor’s MAY 2014 Note Parlez-vous Français? While I’m no tour guide, whenever of broth). While no one can match my friends come to visit me in Saigon, one of my mom's home cooking, I’m hoping that Beo favorite outings involves pointing out the Gap Nuoc will come pretty close! historic colonial-era buildings dotting the Our travel column this month features tips city. Regardless of what districts we wander for complaint resolution ― a topic that my into, we normally see quaint French villas, fiancé and I always argue about ― when to shop houses and cafés. Just one of the many complain and when to let it go. It's especially perks of living in this city. harder here because I end up having to However, when my friend Mike from translate his complaints to the staff which NYC recently came over, I noticed that we then makes his complaint my complaint. saw far less colonial architecture on our It’s just messy. In a recent customer service walks, the edifices having been torn down snafu, I reviewed a plane ticket I bought and replaced with either tall shiny glass online only to find out that the “ine” was buildings or construction fences plastered missing from my name, making the ticket with computer renditions of what was soon out to "Christ." The customer service agent to be. Being a bit of a history buff, when told me I would either have to pay for I look at old buildings I like to imagine another ticket or pay a fee to correct the what it was like to live during that time ― name. Despite my protests that the mistake who lived there? What was their life like? wasn’t mine (while I admittedly have a Who walked on the exact same spot I was big ego, I definitely did not think I was the walking on? In Saving the Soul of Saigon, Christ), we couldn’t resolve the situation James Pham talks to some experts on urban via phone. She asked for my number with conservation on exactly what challenges a promise to phone back, but never did. At there are to preserving the city’s past. I for check-in the following week I had to pay one would hate to wake up one day and a fee because they wouldn't accept that have those beautiful reminders of yesteryear "Christ" and I were the same person. Overall, completely erased. I feel constructive criticism is helpful but Last year, I was lucky enough to visit keeping quiet and accepting bad service France for the first time and while sitting at perpetuates it. I’ll definitely use some of the a café waiting for our train, I overheard a tips from the column the next time I have a couple talking. While I don't speak French, customer service issue. their conservation almost seemed familiar In our Travel and Leisure section, as I realized certain words sounded almost travel writer Ishay Govender covers the Vietnamese in a way. And then it dawned picturesque city of Cape Town. While at the on me that some Vietnamese words were moment, South Africa is making headlines in fact derived from the French language. for all the wrong reasons (with the Oscar Throughout my trip there I noticed other Pistorius murder case), Ishay shows us similarities between the two cultures. Our the truly beautiful side of the legislative cover series traces the fascinating origin of capital of South Africa, with its wonderfully the influences left by colonialism in modern- European feel set against a gorgeous day Vietnam. mountain backdrop. In our Wine and Dine section, we review Finally, congratulations to our Oi Photo Beo Gap Nuoc, a Hue restaurant named Contest winners, Dieu D. and and Duong after a Vietnamese expression about destiny. Q. All of our entrants did such a great job My parents are from Hue so, in addition to at capturing the Love / Romance theme, growing up eating school lunches in the US, garnering well over a thousand ‘likes.’ We I was also eating a lot of Hue food at home. have terrific prizes lined up for our May Reading James Allen’s review transported Photo Contest on the theme “Indochina.” We me back to Brooklyn circa 1985, watching can’t wait to see all your entries! my mom open up a can of hen (baby clams) to make com hen (a delicious rice dish with chopped mint leaves, pork rinds, herbs and veggies, topped with baby clams then mixed Christine Van all together with chili paste and a spoonful Managing Editor
9 Datebook Fill up your calendar with these exciting events
may 6 What: Business Luncheon Where: Opera III & IV, Caravelle Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1; 12pm - 2pm About: The British Business Group Vietnam (BBGV) is hosting a business luncheon about British entrepreneurs' success in Vietnam with two speakers Joe Woolf, CEO of Atlas Vietnam and Stephen Kerslake, CEO of The Caterers Vietnam. Woolf and Kerslake will discuss entrepreneurial DNA, entrepreneurs’ qualifications, skills and experience, market, strategy, competition, resourcing and sustainability. Entrance fee is VND950,000 for members and co-host members and VND1,200,000 for non-members. Contact: Email Tran at [email protected] may 7 & 21 What: Open Air Cinema Where: Pendolasco, 87 Nguyen Hue, D1; 7:15pm About: Cinema Paradiso features open air Italian movies, all subtitled in English. Cosi Ridevano will be shown on May 7 and Gli Sfiorati on May 21. Contact: Email [email protected] for more info
may 8-10 may 7 What: Digital Photo and Sign Show What: Arty Cooking Where: Tan Binh Exhibition & Convention Centre, Tan Binh Where: VinSpace Art Studio, 6 Le Van Mien, D2 About: Digital photo, photo cameras and camcorders, lenses, photo About: VinSpace Art Studio, in collaboration with Saigon Cooking Class finishing equipment, photo processing equipment, photographic by Hoa Tuc, is hosting a special Vietnamese cooking class combined with films, signs, moving image displays, video-walls, electronic an Arty event. The cooking class will focus on four of the best Hoa Tuc messaging and display, digital message boards, installation services, signature Vietnamese dishes while the Arty event will show you how to digital signage servers, and more will be showcased at the exhibition, make your own Arty travel recipe book. open for trade visitors and the public. Contact: Contact [email protected] or i.briosca@ Contact: Call Petty at (04) 3773 8658 or email info@ saigoncookingclass.com for more info digitalphoto.com.vn
10 may 8-11 may 8 What: International Jewelry and Watch Vietnam What: Landscape Painting Where: Tan Binh Exhibition & Convention Centre, Tan Binh Where: VinSpace Garage, 95 Pasteur, D1; 6:30pm - 9pm About: A perfect-timed event for all industry players and public visitors About: Using the images provided or images of your own you will to source a wide range of international-quality and great value gold develop your own landscape painting. An instructor will help you, ornaments, diamonds, gemstones, fine jewelry and watches during the sharing tips and techniques. wedding season in Vietnam. Contact: Email [email protected] for more info Contact: Visit www.vietnamjewelryshow.com for details
may 8-9 What: The Creation Where: Opera House, 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1; 8pm About: The Creation by Joseph Haydn is an oratorio that tells the story of God’s creation of the world in six days according to the Book of Genesis of the Old Testament. The work is structured in three parts and scored for soprano, tenor and bass soloists, chorus, and a symphonic orchestra. For the recitatives, a harpsichord will be used. Conductor Maestro Lars Notto Birkeland will be accompanying the singers during the performances. Joseph Haydn was one of the most prominent faces of the Classical period. He is widely considered to be the ‘Father of the Symphony’ due to his great contributions to musical form. Contact: Call Huong at 3823 7419 or visit www.ticketbox.vn for bookings
11 may 9 What: Saigon Hash House Harriettes Where: Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1; 2pm About: The Hash House Harriers is an informal gathering of once-a- may 9 week runners. The objective of a Hash run is to follow a trail, laid in shredded paper or flour, laid by ‘Hares’ prior to the start of the run. What: CanCham CSR Golf Open Unlike a normal cross-country run, the hares build in checks to slow Where: Twin Doves Golf Club, 68 Tran Ngoc Len, Binh Duong down the FRB's (front running bastards) so that the rest of the pack About: This event will see more than 100 participants including can catch up. These take the form of checks, back checks, false trails CEOs, senior executives, business leaders and decision makers. Cost and so on, where the trail stops and the pack has to fan out to pick it per golfer is VND2,600,000 for CanCham and co-host members and up again. Since Harriettes refers to female participants of a hash, this VND2,800,000 for non-members, inclusive 18 holes of play (with hash chapter will be organized by women but men are welcome to caddy), an assortment of goodies, a mid-way BBQ with beverages participate. and plenty of prizes to be won. Shotgun start at 11:30am followed Meet every Sunday at the Caravelle Hotel. Bus leaves promptly at by a gala dinner buffet. Proceeds will go towards CanCham's CSR 2pm, returning usually around 7-8pm. Hash fees cost VND220,000 for program. expats and VND150,000 for locals. Contact: Call 3824 3754 or email [email protected] for Contact: Email [email protected] for more info more info
Save Vietnam's endangered wildlife with WAR
12 May 16-18 What: Black Comedy May 10 Where: Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 About: Saigon Sound System and Dragonfly Theatre present What: Rock Concert the award-winning play, Blue/Orange written by Joe Penhall Where: Hoa Lu Stadium, 2 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1; 6:30pm and directed by Ryan Burkwood on May 16 at 7pm, May 17 About: The Rock Concert is another version of RockStorm, held nationwide at 2pm and 6:30pm, and May 18 at 7pm. The black comedy is during the last few months of the year. Japanese audio veteran and sound an evocative tale of race, mental illness and the impact of the engineer Masaaki Azuma will be back, following his involvement with controversial issue of care in the community. Reserved seating RockStorm 2013. The concert will feature famous bands such as The Wall, Hai tickets are VND300,000 if booked before midnight on May 12 Bot of Quai Vat Ti Hon (Tiny Monsters), Microwave, Ngu Cung (Pentatonic), from www.ticketbox.vn. Tickets can also be purchased for Oringchains, Black Infinity and PAK band. Ticket price is VND120,000 and VND350,000 at the door. VND95,000 when booked in advanced. Contact: Email [email protected] or call 090 Contact: Call 093 458 2326 for more info 888 0091 for details
13 may 17 What: The Cairos land in Saigon Where: Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4; 8pm may 17 About: Loud Minority presents Aussie outfit, The Cairos, to HCMC. After building up an army of loyal fans in their native Queensland, What: Charity Auction and Gala Dinner The Cairos managed to cause a significant buzz on a national level to Where: Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1; 6:30pm - 11:30pm attract major label interest. Over the last few years, The Cairos have About: Proceeds of the auction will go towards Operation Smile honed their skills and worked hard at their craft, while sharing stages which was founded on the strong belief that every child born with a with the likes of Julian Casablancas, The Temper Trap, The Middle East, facial deformity has the right to smile. Through a global network of You Am I and other indie rock elite. All attendees will be entered into medical volunteers, it has provided free reconstructive surgery and a draw on the night for 10 lucky winners to receive free entry to all medical care for children living in pain and isolation - hoping for a Loud Minority events in 2014. Tickets cost VND150,000 (advance) and better future. Admission to this event is VND3 million per person. VND200,000 (door). Free entry for students with valid ID. Contact: Visit www.operationsmile.org.vn for details Contact: Visit www.ticketbox.vn to purchase tickets
may 22 What: Creative Figure Painting Where: VinSpace Art Studio, 6 Le Van Mien, D2; 6:30pm - 9pm About: In this session, you will paint the figure from a creative point of view, combining abstract and traditional approaches. No previous experience needed. Contact: Visit www.vin-space.com for details
14 may 22 may 24 What: Guitar Recital What: International German School (IGS) Open House Where: IDECAF, 28 Le Thanh Ton, D1; 8pm Where: International German School, 12 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu; About: The French Institute in Vietnam and IDECAF present a guitar 12pm - 4pm recital with Gabriel Bianco, who has established himself as one of About: Learn more about IGS’s curriculum, school team and the most active guitarists of his generation. His constantly-updated teachers, and tour its facilities. Lots of fun awaits kids. The day repertoire comprises both original works and transcriptions covering provides an opportunity for Vietnamese parents to understand how all periods of classical music. An eight-time First Prize winner at the IGS offers their children a chance to learn in a German curriculum, most prestigious international competitions (notably at Vienna, 2006, gaining an opportunity to go to Germany to study. GFA in San Francisco 2008, Madrid 2011), Gabriel Bianco gives recitals IGS, as a school of cultural exchange for Vietnamese and German all over the world (Tchaïkovsky Hall in Moscow, Central Conservatory students, offers all German speaking people in HCMC, or families of Beijing, at Bucharest with the Romanian National Orchestra, among interested in German education, the opportunity of a skill-based others). Admission is VND100,000, VND50,000 for students. education. Contact: Call 3823 9968 for details Contact: Call 3744 6344 or email [email protected] for details
15 may 24 What: Saigon Charity Bazaar Where: The Deck, 38 Nguyen U Di, D2; 10am - 4pm About: Step up to The Deck for their bi-annual charity bazaar benefiting the VinaCapital Foundation program Heart Beat Vietnam, may 28 which funds crucial heart surgery for children from disadvantaged backgrounds and The Deck Charity. What started in 2006 on What: AmCham Palooza Party the shoulders of two Dutch ladies and 10 vendors has become a Where: Novotel Saigon Centre, 167 Hai Ba Trung, D3; 6pm - 8:30pm community event in the years since, with crafters and charities such About: A platform to develop new friendships, networking as Vietnam Quilts, Mekong Creations, Grace Cookies, and Operation opportunities and information exchange. People from all age groups Smile among the 45 vendors who will be present. Small entrepreneurs welcome. Free admission for members and VND100,000 for non- with local and unusual products are encouraged to participate. members. Contact: Email [email protected] or call 3744 6632 Contact: Email [email protected] for details
may 31 What: Bourbon Street Jazz Festival Where: Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4; 4pm - till late About: A music and food festival with a focus on Bourbon Street, New Orleans style Cajun food, coolers, music and dance. The artists will include international musicians such as Eugene "Hideaway" Bridges, Japanese jazz singer Shun Sakai, Taste Like Chicken, The Blues Brothers, Hot Tzigani Project and The Wanderlusters. The ticket price is VND500,000 and includes VND200,000 for the purchase of food and beverages. Free entry for children under 12 years. Profits from the event will go to underprivileged kids and help provide continued social and economic development in Dong Ha Town, Quang Tri Province, by supporting the employment of workers, some with disabilities, at the Kids First Enterprise factory where wheelchairs are manufactured. Contact: Visit www.bourbonstreetjazzfestival.com for details
16 june 7 What: Saigon Summer Ball Where: InterContinental Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, D1; 7pm till late About: Saigon Summer Ball features a Moet Chandon Champagne reception, an exquisite dinner, auction items and dancing to live music and DJs. Bringing together many of the key people from the international and Vietnamese social and business worlds, the event is primarily designed to be a night of great celebration and style with the added benefit of raising much needed funds for development work. Tickets cost VND3,300,000. Contact: Email [email protected] for more info
may 31 What: Wedding Show Where: New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Street, D1; 9am About: From 9am to 9pm, a wedding exhibition called Aisle of Style will take place with free entry. Those who book and pay for your wedding at New World Saigon Hotel before June 7 will receive a 20 percent discount or by June 30 a 15 percent discount. You can also enjoy brunch at Parkview Restaurant while viewing a fashion show from local wedding gown and accessories designers from 11am to 3pm. The fashion show and brunch is priced at VND550,000 per person. From 6:30 pm to 9pm, see the latest wedding gown collections in a designer fashion show. Plus, preview the hotel’s new signature wedding dishes in a dinner prepared by its executive chef. Priced at VND500,000 per ticket served with champagne and free flow of house wine. Tickets are required. When you purchase a ticket for the show and dinner and book your wedding at New World Saigon Hotel, you will have the chance to win your entire wedding free of charge. Contact: Email [email protected] for more info
17 Troi Oi The country by numbers
450,000 small fish were released into the Tau Hu – Ben Nghe canal, which had recently been cleaned, to enrich and develop aquatic resources. This annual event helps promote public awareness to protect the environment. The staff lakes will soon be built to prevent flooding in HCMC. As from the department of fisheries also the city’s vulnerability to climate changes are becoming delivered pamphlets with content increasingly apparent, the city is taking steps to solve the aimed at helping local residents better ever-increasing flood problems. understand the need to protect the Do Tan Long, head of the Irrigation Management Office biological diversity in the country. of HCM City's Steering Centre of Urban Flood Control Program, said that the People's Committee will work to build 30 lakes in the second half of this year with the hope of alleviating seasonal flooding. Large lakes will be built on the outskirts of the city while smaller ones will be placed in inner-city areas. 30Money for the project will come from both public and private funds, according to Long. "The city will utilize its budget to build large lakes and raise funds from residents for the smaller lakes.” Once established, the lakes are predicted to reduce floods by “around 30 percent”. Researchers at the National University Ho Chi Minh City’s Geoinformatics Center found that many areas of HCMC are sinking at a rate of 20mm per year. The trend, which began in 1996, has been increasing steadily since 2004. Based on estimates from the Department of Natural Resources and Environment, “many parts will sink a further 12-20cm by 2020”.
tallest building of electric wire was removed from a in HCMC is set local man’s bowel last month. Dau Van to be finished Phu was admitted to Nghe An General sometime this Hospital after he developed stomach year. Once pain, nausea and fatigue. Doctors from completed, the a hospital in the north-central province Vietcombank of Nghe An said the 35-year-old man Tower’s2 ndspire will put the building’s swallowed the wire two years ago after a dare. The doctors performed key-hole height at 206m, just under 60m short of 40surgery, lasting aroundcm 30 minutes, to take the object out. the Bitexco Financial Tower’s 262m.
18 historic buildings have been lost to development. A Vietnamese- French urban research agency has found that at least 207 heritage buildings in downtown Ho Chi Minh City have been destroyed or defaced in the last decade. Dr. Fanny Quertamp Nguyen, Director200 of the Center for Prospective and Urban Studies (PADDI), an agency set up by Rhône – Alpes Region and HCMC, said only 96 have been preserved. A survey by French is the new fee to enter Hoi and Vietnamese experts in 1993 had determined that 377 An’s Old Town. Hoi An officials structures in Districts 1 and 3 were heritage sites. opened new ticket booths at each Ton Nu Thi Ninh, a former Vice Chairwoman of the National entrance into the Old Town and Assembly's Foreign Affairs Committee, cited the razing of have introduced a new rule: To three old buildings for the construction of Vincom, a major enter all visitors must now buy a shopping mall, in District 1 in 2011, as an example of the fact USD6 VND120,000 ticket. Previously, you needed the ticket only that economic profits are prioritized. to see certain sights within the Old Town, not just to wander To Kien, an architect who graduated from the Singapore the streets. University of Technology and Design, said many countries face a similar dilemma of preservation or development, and the best way is to achieve a balance between modernization and preservation, even if that means slower economic growth.
foreigners so far have visited Vietnam by way of American luxury cruise ships Voyager of the Seas and the Celebrity Millennium. Saigontourist's 8,500General Director Vo Anh Tai told newspapers his company has served more than 80 visits from international luxury cruise ships this year.
19 The Bulletin Promotions and News in HCMC and beyond...
Cool Summer Choosing Dalat as a destination for your summer vacation is an idea worth considering because Dalat Edensee, a luxury resort in the pine city, has just launched a promotional program named Huong Mua He. With prices ranging from VND5,490,000 for two people, those staying three days and two nights are eligible for free additional services. After a tiring day walking, you can relax at La Roseraie Poolside BBQ Buffet Spa with two gift vouchers included in the package, Pullman’s Danang Beach Resort’s Azure Beach Lounge offers in including Swedish relaxation massage, Vietnam traditional this whole month of May a poolside BBQ buffet every Wednesday massage, massage Thai style, Revival Aromatherapy and Friday from 5:30pm for VND525,000, including liquid nitrogen treatment, special herbs or hot stone therapy. The ice cream and two beers/soft drinks per person. Selection includes promotion package also includes a romantic dinner for two a variety of barbeque specialties such as beef, chicken and seafood. at the VIP restaurant every night. If you wish to stay longer, The poolside BBQ buffet offers a romantic setting for dining, with its it's just VND1,990,000 per additional night for two people. scenic gardens, sparkling blue waters, and mesmerizing views over Huong Mua He is valid from May 5 to August 25, 2014. the East Sea. In celebration of its third year anniversary, Dalat For more info, call (0511) 3958888 Edensee is offering a special discount of 10 percent and a gift to all customers who book this package in May. For more info, contact Dalat Edensee at (0633) 831515 or email [email protected]
BBQ and Beer Quan Ut Ụt, located at 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1, is Saigon’s newest restaurant with specialties including American BBQ favorites, cashew-smoked pork ribs and burgers alongside fresh draft and imported beer. Open daily from 4pm till midnight. For further info, visit www.quanutut.com or call 0914 4500.
20 Event Planner Centerpiece is a new independent event planning company run by expats that leverages the vibrant social scene in Ho Chi Minh City. What makes Centerpiece stand out from other event planning companies is the attention to detail, transforming an ordinary party into a unique event. They can organize a party of any shape or size, from a corporate event to a private party, to the wedding of your dreams. For further info, visit www.centerpiece-vn.com
New Fashion Label RB&K (www.rbkandco.com) was born in 2014. The collection « Fragrance » was created from experiences and observations Rebecca Bargas, founder and fashion designer of RB&K, had while working with various luxury labels like Chloé or Kenzo. RB&K grew up in the crossroads of Europe and Southeast Asia, describing itself as cultural chic with the perfect mix of Asian spices and the traditions of Europe to create simple, elegance fashion. The brand bills itself as “a new generation of creative fashion wear with the flavor of new fragrance." Mother’s Day Promo This Mother’s Day, show your love and pamper your mother with a variety of indulgences at InterContinental Asiana Saigon (corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1). If you would like to offer her a culinary trip around the world, Market 39 restaurant offers a feast of market fresh staples at the buffet. Dishes include seafood, gourmet salads, international delicacies, a live carving station and desserts. Mother’s Day Brunch is priced at VND1,599,000++ per person including free flow of Veuve Clicquot Champagne, cocktails, house wine, beer and soft drinks. Buffet dinner is priced at VND1,098,000++ per person including free flow of house wine, beer and soft drinks. Trattoria style Basilico restaurant also offers a dinner buffet with menu especially for this occasion for VND999,000++ per person including free flow of draught beer, soft drinks and one glass of white/red wine.
21 DISCOVER HOI AN Explore the great heritage of Hoi An and discover authentic Vietnamese cuisine and hospitality at Boutique Hoi An Resort with their special Discover Hoi An package. The package is priced at VND6,340,000 nett including tax and service charge for two persons for two nights in a Superior room with daily breakfast. The package is valid from May 1 to October 31, 2014, and includes round trip airport transfers, Vietnamese set lunch or dinner at Le Café Restaurant per person per stay, daily shuttle bus service to Hoi An’s Old Town, free wireless internet in the room and throughout the resort, welcome cocktail at Le Salon per person per stay, free bike rental, 15 percent discount on all spa treatments, 15 percent discount on F&B at the resort’s outlet only. Additional night charges (with daily breakfast) are as the internet rates subject to availability. Upgrade to next category room will be charged at VND700,000 per room per night. For more info, call (84) 0510 3939 111 or visit www.boutiquehoianresort.com Holiday Package Amiana, the new 5-star luxury beach resort in Nha Trang, has just launched the Amazing Amiana Summer Holiday Package special for VND1,890,000++ per person per night (twin-share) in Deluxe Room or VND3,780,000++ a Deluxe Room per night inclusive of buffet breakfast. Valid from now until August 29, the package also includes a complimentary indoor game for children and swimming lessons for children from eight years old. Discount 10-20 percent for sport activities at resort, minibar, spa service. Additional benefits for long stay include complimentary airport transfer and one dinner for stays from two nights, add on 15 mins spa rituals including sauna, steam and Japanese hot pool for stays from three nights. Add a further 10-20 percent off on long stay packages from four to seven nights or more. Children under 12 years old sharing with extra bed at VND420,000++ child/ night including breakfast. Third adult or children above 12 years old sharing with extra bed at VND735,000++ person/night including breakfast. Special rate for upgrade to Ocean Front Villa at VND1,050,000++ per room/night. For reservations, call 58 355 3333 or visit www.amiana.com.vn
A Book for Cause Lean In Like a Queen: 17 Lessons from the Last Queen of Vietnam’s Daring Negotiations written by Kim Do is for all women – and men – who want to avoid common mistakes and increase their success in their own negotiations, whether at work, in business, or in their personal life. The book is available as a Kindle edition at Amazon. com. Profits from this book will be given to women-empowering charities in Vietnam, millions of whom are “leaning in” everyday to survive basic problems including poverty, lack of education, and domestic violence. Born in Saigon, author Kim Do is a Vietnamese-American. Having practiced international and corporate law for nearly 20 years, she has lost jobs and fortunes in more than one financial crisis, and nearly gave up the corporate ladder recently to take a quiet early retirement. Yet she was inspired by Sheryl Sandberg’s Lean In to forge ahead and achieve a senior position at a top global bank’s Vietnam office, as well as to complete the research and writing of this book (her first).
22 Cruising Vietnam Cruise line brand Princess Cruises will be sailing to Vietnam for a new season of cruise trips and offering a wide array of itineraries. The Sapphire Princess will stop at Ba Ria Vung Tau (Phu My) and Nha Trang. Princess Cruises will be introducing the Sapphire Princess to Southeast Asia for a four-month season from November 2014 to February 2015. The itinerary includes a seven-day Vietnam and Thailand trip including Ba Ria Vung Tau (Phu My) and an 11-day Southeast Asia trip in which the Sapphire Princess will visit Ba Ria Vung Tau (Phu My) and Nha Trang. Highlights of offerings include the line’s signature innovations such as its popular “Movies Under the Stars” pool-side theater and The Sanctuary, an exclusive top-deck retreat. The 116,000-ton Sapphire Princess carries 2670 passengers and features more than 200 suites and mini-suites with private balconies, Lotus Spa, Sterling Steakhouse, Sabatini's trattoria, wine bar, patisserie, pizzeria, boutiques, and Internet café among other amenities. Princess Cruises’ Southeast Asia itineraries will offer more destinations than on any other cruise line, stopping at seven countries and 16 ports in Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Cambodia, and Brunei. Cruise lengths will range from three to 11 days, providing passengers with a wide array of vacation experiences. Visit www.princess.com for more info WeSave With WeSave discover new things to eat, drink and do at preferential prices. It is a portal for daily deals, but is very different from what you might have experienced so far. You no longer have to wait for a voucher delivery, because they value your time. They provide the merchant and let you choose the service yourself. You benefit from a real discount while they do their best, so that their merchants treat you like a regular customer. With every purchase you receive loyalty credits which you can use to enjoy more. Merchants are their product; therefore they will always try to bring you exclusive, quality merchants with high discounts. Visit www.wesave.vn for more info
23 HEALTH A Symptomatic Approach Our experiment with drugs Text by NPD Khanh Image by Adam Robert Young
You may have heard this story before, He gave us three types of medicine: or maybe you yourself have had the misfortune to experience it - your stomach 1. Paracetamol: According to Thanh aches, you sense a fever coming and your this is a simple pain reliever that most head hurts. It’s time to go to the doctor, pharmaceutical companies carry. They look except you dread visiting a hospital in different simply because they are produced Vietnam because of the crowded, stuffy by different pharmaceutical companies. hallways, the frustration of hospital This is for our headache. bureaucracy, the encumbering language barrier, and most of all the hospital bills 2. Spasmaverine: “A muscle relaxant that that may or may not be covered by your should take care of your stomach ache,” health insurance. says Thanh. “It can also be used to treat Unwilling to put yourself against such period cramps for women.” daunting obstacles, you figure you should just take a shortcut, go to the nearest 3. Maxdotyl Sulpiride: “This one is for pharmacy and get something for your your headache,” says Thanh again. This problems. It’s cheaper, quicker, and the one, unlike the other two, requires a pharmacist attending the drugstore counter prescription from a doctor, but he has seen is a lot less intimidating than the line of many doctors prescribing this same drug hospital receptionists, nurses, doctors, and for people with headache or vertigo, so he’s cashiers you will have to face if you go the sure it’s fine. other route. After all, this is hardly the first time you've felt under the weather. You have Opting for a second opinion, we visited always been healthy and for all you know, Thuy, a pharmacist at V-Phano, a chain a little headache, tummy ache or fever seem drugstore, and described to her the same simple enough and easily dealt with if given symptoms. While Thuy gave us the same the right pills. For something this simple, prescriptions as Thanh, she asked for more you are certain the pharmacist can fix you details on our symptoms and advised us to up with something quick and cheap. visit a doctor for an examination. At Oi we decided to do an experiment. We feigned the scenario above and A Third Opinion visited two pharmacists (one public and Provided with the information above as one private) to see what kind of pills well as the bags of medicine from both they would prescribe to us, and then we pharmacies, Dr. Nicolas Lague, Medical consulted a doctor at Centre Medical Director at CMI, gave us his expert opinion. International (CMI) to provide us with an “I cannot identify many of these medicines. insight to what the pills were. There are no names here and no shell with drug specific to those with mental issues After telling Nguyen Binh Thanh, a which to identify them. I am not sure if and in France it is mainly prescribed by a Vietnamese pharmacist at Minh Duc, a those are Paracetamol. Spasmaverine is an psychiatrist; GP rarely prescribe this drug privately-owned pharmacy, our symptoms, OK choice. It does treat stomachache and except to renew prescriptions already done, he sold us a bag (VND80,000) filled does not leave any harmful effects. for a long term treatment.” Normal doctors with unlabeled pills and capsules. No “This one [Maxdotyl Sulpiride] is used do not prescribe this drug. Besides, while it instructions were given, no questions to treat schizophrenia. In France, we never does and can treat vertigo and headache, it asked, and even when we tried to push for prescribe this one for vertigo or headache. also has many side effects.” an explanation in our broken Vietnamese, It is a huge surprise for me when I came Dr. Lague adds: “In France, medical he didn't seem interested in trying to to Vietnam and found out that many professors always teach their students answer. Now we were left with a bag Vietnamese doctors prescribed Maxdotyl that 90 percent of the time, an accurate filled with mysterious pills that would for patients without mental issues. It is diagnosis can be achieved simply by asking supposedly solve our medical problems. true that Maxdotyl does have an effect a lot of detailed questions. However, What was in this bag of pills? on vertigo and headache, however, it is a the leftover 10 percent requires careful
24 examination. None of the two pharmacists particularly serious and in most cases, are not asked the required questions.” life threatening, there is always a chance that According to Vietnamese pharmaceutical they hide much more dangerous conditions "By law, these law Reg # 34/2005/QH11, while the owner that can only be revealed by thorough druggists are only of a private drugstore needs a university examination and blood testing,” says Dr. degree in pharmacy, the pharmacist Lague. “For the frugal patients or those allowed to sell and attending the counter who does the actual without time, I would advise that if after two selling is only required to have a diploma in to three days of taking the medicine from manage pharmaceutical pharmacy which can be acquired directly these pharmacies, the symptoms still do not after high school and takes two years to abate then they should visit a doctor. Going stocks and cannot finish. By law, these druggists are only by the dose in these bags, which are just allowed to sell and manage pharmaceutical enough for two to three days, I think that’s consult" stocks and cannot consult. exactly what these pharmacists are trying to “While these symptoms do not appear tell their expat customers.”
25 ART The Sand Master Art greater than the sum of its parts Text by NPD Khanh Images by Adam Robert Young
Sand art usually summons up images collection of sand portraits as national heard about a new discipline called sand of intricate sand castles and sculptures gifts to the 21 APEC heads of state in 2006. painting and later on encountered it during created on wide open beaches that exist for “Only when I actually show them the his work at Kim Sa, the art company that only a short time before being washed away process of how Vietnamese sand paintings set the standard in the sand painting by the tide. However, Vietnamese sand art is are created, do they actually start to grasp industry. anything but. This decade old art is created the essence of what it is.” "I was hired as an art instructor," he in tiny workshops around the city. Raised by artists, Quang's parents explains. "I didn't have the necessary skill “If I had a thousand dong for every regularly acquainted him with famous then, but years spent in university and at person who has asked me what Vietnamese artist friends in the hope he would slowly the knees of my elders had given me the sand painting is, I would probably be a absorb their experience and techniques. eye of an artist and a foundation that those billionaire by now,” says Nhat Quang, one Graduating university with a degree in art, first sand art 'workers' did not necessarily among the four who created the famous it was in those college years that he first have. I was paid VND1.8 million per
26 month. In 2005, that was just about enough thin glass containers, using a wand- the tools of the trade: out in the nature.” for gas, coffee, and two meals per day, but shaped ‘spoon’ to pour layers and layers Every other month or so, painters I was fuelled by something more than that. of multi-colored sand in a meticulous and organize sand collecting expeditions. You see, I was suddenly in love. painstaking process that takes days to “We go to coastal towns like Phan Thiet "At the time, sand art was something complete until a painting takes shape and or Nha Trang for most of our needs and that was still very new and most people can be seen through the glass. Depending take back truckloads of sand. Nha Trang has had never even heard of it. For an artist, on the size and complexity, paintings can a lot of fine white grains, but in terms of dedicating himself to something so new with range from a few hundred thousand dong colors, Phan Thiet is the place to go. There no history or guarantee of success is a risky to the tens of millions. The sand, taken are other places for special types of sand or move," Quang adds. "Once I acquired the skill from all corners of Vietnam and bearing a colors that can’t be found anywhere else in however, I found I simply could not let go. limitless gamut of colors, is poured, woven, Vietnam as well.” “The process of training for sand threaded, pressed, coaxed until, held in When all the sand is finally brought painting is harrowing, requiring far more place only by the pressure of countless back, the next step is the treatment patience, dedication, and commitment grains of sand on top of each other, they process. Bags upon bags of sand, already than any other forms of painting. To work create a unified vision of beauty. A true categorized based on their colors and with something as fickle as sand, one has painting with defined shapes, strokes and texture, are put through days of sifting, to dedicate himself to even the smallest colors, but instead of oil paints or powder, grinding, filtering, drying and bleaching detail and be prepared to redo all his work it is with sand that the artist recreates his under the sun until they are transformed for even the tiniest mistakes. To love sand vision in still life. into appropriate materials for painting. painting is to never look back. That's what “It usually takes us four to five days “Few people actually understand the I always tell my students. When my family to completely ‘paint’ one sand painting,” hard work and dedication that goes behind found out I want to specialize in sand art, says Quang. “But that’s only the creation a single sand painting,” says Quang. “Even they protested and we fought many times, process. The real work starts weeks or fewer look into each grain of sand that but I've never looked back." sometimes months before that.” make up the tiniest part of the painting and In 2006, following the collapse of Kim Sa, Pointing at the various sand bowls on his wonder where it comes from. The artist, on Quang was invited by Y Lan, the creator of desk, he continues: “The sand that we use the other hand, remembers all of that. We Vietnamese sand painting, to work in a team cannot be bought. We sand artists cannot know this grain came from the sand dunes of four and create the collection of sand simply go to art supply shops and ask for a of Ninh Chu, exactly one meter under the portraits as gifts to the international leaders bag of blue sand and a bag of red sand and surface, and that grain came from Tru Beach at APEC 2006. Upon completion of this maybe that other bag of skin color sand of Nha Trang, collected right at the first project, he joined his current art company, too. The sand that is actually sold in the touch of dawn when the sand is still wet My Art (27B/5 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1), and market is used for construction. It is coarse with the sea and the salt, before the place is has been its managing director ever since. and unrefined and its variations of color too swarmed with swimmers and tourists. We lacking for even the most experienced artist remember all of that. We know where they Counting Sand to mold into something worth looking at. come from. We see the stories behind the Quang pours his materials into flat and There is only one place where we can find littlest details in our creations.”
27 SAIGON MYTHBUSTERS
THE MYTH:
Is it true that Ben Thanh Market will be demolished to make space for a new shopping mall? BY adam rob e r t you n g image
No, this is not true because Ben Thanh market remained unchanged. In 2008, Market is one of the most recognizable yet another incident gave new life to the symbols in Ho Chi Minh City and has been rumor that Ben Thanh Market would so for the last 50 years and will continue to be replaced by something newer and be so for a long time. This rumor, however, swankier. This time, it was the blueprint has been circulating for quite some time. of the future Saigon metro line and a An official decision to tear down Ben vague request made by a subdivision of Thanh Market and replace it with a modern the city government to clear out space shopping mall in 1970 was the closest for the future Ben Thanh - Suoi Tien "Ben Thanh Market it ever came. There was even a design metro line and Ben Thanh central metro contest held to choose the best design for hub that restarted the old rumor. Ben is one of the most Ben Thanh 3.0 (Ben Thanh Market 1.0 is Thanh Market, because of its well-placed recognizable where the Old Market near Ho Tung Mau location, sits at the central hub of the stands, and Ben Thanh Market 2.0 is its planned metro system and will see traffic symbols in Ho Chi present location). The winning design was coming in from five out of the six metro a blueprint created by architect Huynh Kim lines. Despite the request to 'make space' Minh City and has Mang. This design, however, was never put being incredibly vague, common sense to application due to the simple reason that would have that empty space for this been so for the it was too expensive for the government incredible amount of traffic must be coffers. The total cost to construct Huynh created and that old structures, in this last 50 years and Kim Mang’s aesthetically bold and case, the market, will have to make way. will continue to be ambitious vision in real life was a then When the 1500 merchants who make whopping VND2 billion. their fortune from the market voiced so for a long time" In 1985, the market underwent their objection, the city government renovation overseen by Professor Hoang representative made it clear that this was Nhu Tan. This renovation was strictly a simply a suggestion made by an investor maintenance job however and the base and there was no concrete plan to ever work as well as overall structure of the follow through.
28 29 30 31 TRUE CRIME
Smooth Criminal The life and death of Vietnam’s Al Capone Text by NPD Khanh Image by Ngoc Tran
To this day, an entire decade after his picture of mediocrity with a simple future. execution, Nam Cam’s legacy as Vietnam’s However, a thirst for more was starting to most notorious criminal mastermind grow; he wanted to escape the poverty he endures. His execution in 2004 not only was born into. The District 4 of Nam Cam’s tore down an entire criminal empire, but youth is not the same as the up and coming also led to the total shutdown of an entire modern neighborhood of today. Back then, police department, and the downfall and it was a swampland dotted with a hive of political exile of high ranking military thatched huts and poor provincial laborers generals who few people dare speak of who were servants to the richer folks over even now. His death created mass media in District 1. blackout campaigns and in its wake left a power vacuum in Saigon’s underworld that Bridging the Gap eventually turned District 4 into a bloody Countless trips over the Ong Lanh Bridge massacre for all those who wanted to take connecting the two districts had shown over the empty throne. Nam Cam a much different facet of life. He For all his infamy and the high-profile had seen richness. When he was young he crime cases, most of Nam Cam’s life couldn’t yet perceive the unbridgeable gap remains a mystery. Few know how he between the rich and the poor. But now started and even fewer know how he went that he was older, he began to understand. from being an ordinary man to the king of In his early 20s, he experimented with the underbelly. running gambling rings, but lacked success, Born as Truong Van Cam in 1947 in being an unknown. When he hit 30, he met the slums of District 4, Nam Cam was the Tam Phanh, an ex-gambling don who used youngest and only son to laborers who to run the entire Saigon casino networks worked day and night to feed a family of before 1975, and it was from him that four living in a thatched hut. They were Nam Cam learned the business and gained poor and illiterate, like the majority of the reputation he needed to climb up the those who lived in the district back then. hierarchy. He soon became a businessman, Lacking the financial resources to pursue a manager. His stints in prison taught him an education, Cam started working at the brutal consequence of unwise choices seven to help support the family. He and that even among criminals, thinkers do walked circles around Ben Thanh Market, better than brutes. selling small packs of washing powder to He started branching out to other middleclass Vietnamese, often earning only businesses such as money laundering, 10 dong for a full day’s work. smuggling and trafficking drugs. He did When he turned 14, he got his first job what few other criminals before him dared as a bouncer for a gambling joint in “Khu to. He started dabbling in politics and Da Heo, hem 100, khu Cau Muoi,” (Pig Skin connected with high profile politicians. In alley, Salt Bridge area which no longer the shadow, and over the years, he became exists) in District 1, ran by his brother- the uncrowned king of Saigon. in-law Bay Sy. A year later, over territory While his execution wasn’t a surprise, dispute, Bay Sy stabbed a man to death few journalists dared write about it. and Nam Cam, in a fit of criminal chivalry Despite his admission of guilt, doubts and perhaps for the sake of his pregnant and questions remain. Not all the details older sister, took the blame and the prison of Nam Cam’s own court case were aired sentence for Bay Sy. Because he was only 15, publicly and while everyone knew who the he received a light sentence of three years. criminals involved were, names were never At 18, he was released and for the next officially released. few years he worked a blue collar day job, Even now conspiracies about Nam Cam found a girlfriend, got married, had his still abound, as well as suspicion that second kid (the first was an illegitimate perhaps even the king of the underworld child he had in his early teens). He was the was only a pawn in a much greater game.
32 33 34 INDOCHINE
The Legacy of COLONIALISM
The French influence on Vietnam is still evident today, albeit small. Baguettes are sold in the street, old men on push bikes speak French and wear berets and colonial style architecture stands throughout the inner city. It's an obvious dwarf of colonial times and the Vietnamese are definitely carving a new future and moving in their own direction but the little things are still there. Attempts to rid the city of evidence left behind from French colonial rule can be seen in the changes of street names, but affirmation of this period is still seen (for now) in some of the more elaborate architecture within the city. Much of the Vietnamese food that we gorge on in delight today has been heavily affected by colonialism in Indochina, however with these influences come new flavors, ingredients and combinations that give an entirely new taste to traditional Vietnamese food, while highlighting their historical tastes as the Vietnamese people have put their own stamp onto the food and influences of the French.
35 The Legacy of Colonialism
Tricolor threads in the fabric of modern-day Vietnam
Text by James Pham Images by Adam Robert Young
This year marks the 60th anniversary minded. During the wars, they made a the Vietnam Peace Committee, Ton Nu Thi of the Battle of Dien Bien Phu which led differentiation between the policies of Ninh. to Vietnam’s independence after nearly foreign governments and administrations seven decades of French rule. While the and the culture. The culture is not at fault. Pardon my French French controlled Vietnam for less than When we fought the First Indochina War, Growing up with parents who were part of one tenth the time the Chinese did, the we never made the mistake of lumping the Indochine generation (my father studied vestiges of colonization can be seen almost together French culture and the wrong in Nantes and my mother taught French everywhere, from the ubiquitous baguettes policies of French colonial administration, at the all girls’ Gia Long school in Saigon), and pale yellow Franco-Annamite villas to so we never boycotted baguettes and we washed our hands with xa-phong (soap, the subtle loanwords with Francophone red wine and filtered coffee… We don't from savon) in the lavabo (wall sink). My roots. To be sure, the colonial era is filled have a track record of wanting to get sister played with her bup-be (doll, from with stories of terrible abuse and racism, a rid of vestiges of colonial times that are poupee) while I ate bich-quy (cookies, system designed to benefit the few on the part of our history. And personally, I say from biscuit) while adjusting the ang-ten backs of the many. This month,Oi aims to well, other things may not be so rosy, but (antennae, from antenne) on our tiny TV. divest culture from cruelty, history from French colonial architecture and French Ever since Jesuit father Alexandre de horror, in highlighting the legacy left from cuisine, [people like] Alexander Yersin, are Rhodes visited Vietnam in the 1620s and this period of Vietnam’s history. among the positive heritage left to us by laid the groundwork for a Latin-based “I think that the Vietnamese are the French colonial times,” notes former writing system which replaced the variant fortunate in that they are culturally broad- ambassador and current Vice-President of character-based Chinese one in use since
36 the 13th century, the language has been flavors quite right, she added local spices inextricably tied to French. No matter which like star anise, cinnamon bark, cardamom, side of the linguistic debate you may fall on cloves and fennel and voilà, Vietnamese ― the one side partly attributing Vietnam's “feu” was born. high literacy rate to the fact that it's one of "Banh xeo is probably the few Asian countries to use what some Haute Cuisine for the People deem an easier-to-learn script, or on the the farthest removed When the French came, they brought with side of academics like the late Gail Kelly, them strange ingredients and new cooking Professor of Comparative Education (State from the original dish, techniques. Baguettes, flans, yogurt and University of New York at Buffalo), who coffee are now ubiquitous, but there are a pointed out that the reformed Vietnamese but I much prefer the few Vietnamese dishes which may not be so script actually separated following obviously French-inspired. Chad Kubanoff, generations of Vietnamese students from Vietnamese 'crepe' a chef trained in classical French cuisine and their own national literature because they now Vietnamese street food expert, says, could no longer read it ― it's undeniable compared to the French" "banh xeo is probably the farthest removed that the French have left an imprint on the from the original dish, but I much prefer the Vietnamese language, with upwards of Vietnamese 'crepe' compared to the French. 400 words that have found their way into The added texture and freshness brought by modern Vietnamese. commonly, fried eggs) or yell ep-phe (spin, the Vietnamese cooking style have turned a There are the obvious ones, simply a from effet) as they're hitting a slice shot relatively monotone dish into a new exciting transliteration from the French like ban-cong in tennis. Even the dish known the world creation, filled with contrasting flavors and (balcony, from balcon) or pho-mat (cheese, over for being quintessentially Vietnamese, textures. It's also a step towards a more from fromage), but then there are shortened pho, may ironically be a take on the French balanced and healthy meal with all of the words borrowing a single syllable. A “pot-au-feu,” the classic, rustic French beef raw herbs and vegetables, compared to the Vietnamese person might take some money stew. One of the many theories puts the sugar and carbohydrates loaded into the out of his bop (wallet, the first syllable from turn-of-the-century origin of the dish in the French version." Vinh Ton That, previously portefeuille) to leave a bo (tip, second syllable Hanoian kitchen of the Vietnamese lover of the head chef at Bobby Chinn Hanoi and from pourboire) at a restaurant. Or order a French officer, as she attempted to make Shri, agrees that the Vietnamese have their eggs op-la, a truncated form of oeuf the celebrated meal of slow-cooked meat, put their own take on the French crepe. au plat (literally, 'eggs on a dish,' or more vegetables and spices. Unable to get the "Instead of plain flour, milk and butter, the
37 ingredients have been substituted by corn flour, water and oil. But still, the concept is very similar." Another of Chad's favorites is bo kho (beef stew). "It’s a dish that most travelers don't expect to see or taste in Vietnam. It is very 'un-Vietnamese' in its richer flavor and full-bodied broth. Also serving a broth- based dish with a baguette is very rare to see in this country, definitely an ode to its French roots. Another nod to the French is having a piece of pâté or cheese stuffed in bread, as is the concept of eating eggs and bread for breakfast." Chad also talks about the more subtle influences of the French on Vietnam's culinary landscape. "Many French dishes were replicated in Vietnam's own style, not really with French culinary techniques, but with their own techniques and using ingredients that they already knew. Look at cafe sua da with its condensed milk and also the banh kem sau rieng. Other than using a durian flavored cream filling instead of a pastry cream, we're basically looking at a standard cream puff." Vinh additionally points out that thanks to the French, "a lot of dairy products [have been introduced] that are used especially for cakes or desserts such as butter, milk, cream, vanilla, and so on. I believe we have a great deal of cakes that are inspired by the French as well as a lot of vegetables and fruit products such as potatoes, asparagus and strawberries, just a few of the ingredients that are now used so frequently in local cooking."
Les Beaux Arts The arts is another area where French influence can be seen. According to art expert Sophie Hughes, "Vietnam is quite unique in Asia because its fine art has been heavily influenced by the French. The birth of modern Vietnamese art is considered by most art historians to have taken place at the French run L’Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts de L'Indochine, an arts school founded in 1925. In fact, the artists who are now considered the 'four pillars of modern Vietnamese art' ― Bui Xuan Phai, Nguyen Tu Nghiem, Nguyen Sang and Duong Bich Lien ― were all graduates of the school." "The French teachers at the school introduced materials such as oil paint, techniques such as linear perspective and styles such as neo-classicism and from lacquer.” Tim Doling, writer and local historian, Impressionism. They also introduced the says: "The French made an important idea of the individual 'artiste' in society. Hanging On To The Past contribution to Vietnam's urban fabric, Previously there were highly skilled Colonial era architecture is perhaps the from urban planning to architecture, artisans and craftsmen who worked in most obvious reminder of the Indochine including early structures influenced collectives or craft schools and produced period, seen through the faded yellow heavily by ethnic Vietnamese architecture, works that focused on teaching moral tales buildings with white trim and blue grand neo-colonial edifices intended to or historical legends. The school and the shutters scattered throughout the country. reflect the glories of empire and later work coming out of it reflected a shift from Magnificent, ornate edifices like the Notre 'Indochinois'-style buildings which fused a traditional society ruled by Confucian Dame Cathedral (inaugurated in 1880) or both Eastern and Western architectural principles into a modern one where the the Saigon Opera House (modeled after styles. The French influence may still role of the individual was valued. Students Paris' Petit Palais) immediately spring be seen today in a number of modern were encouraged to use modern European to mind, but architecture lovers equally structures such as Union Square in HCMC's ideas as a means of evolution from appreciate the more subtle structures like District 1 which has been sympathetically traditional Vietnamese art. Lacquer was the Museum of Fine Arts building or the designed to harmonize with its immediate introduced as a subject at the school and as Dragon House (Saigon's Ho Chi Minh surroundings." a result shifted from being a craft material Museum) which fuse European elements Sadly, many colonial-era heritage to a fine art, making Vietnam the only like pillars and archways with Eastern buildings are disappearing, the victims of country in Asia to make fine art works ones, most notably the dragons on the roof. neglect, economy or extreme modification.
38 obviously aesthetically pleasing but they also represent a brutal time where the French badly mistreated the country they were colonizing. In that sense, I don't blame the Vietnamese people for not feeling sentimental about it. The sentiment comes from foreigners really. We're the ones who want the buildings to stay." Urban artist Bridget March says that "it is the nature of people to want to hang on to the past ― it gives us a sense of security. We like familiar things. We like to surround ourselves with memories of the good and the bad as reminders, as wayfinders. For instance if we don't hang on to some remnants of French colonialism, it may be more difficult to tell the stories about, and value, the struggle for independence. In our own lifetimes we collect the memories and the souvenirs of all those who have influenced our lives ― our grandparents, parents, siblings and the things that have changed our lives such as education, foreign adventures, traumas, love and loss. I think our cities should be the same." Tim concludes: "There needs to be a balance between the needs of modernization and redevelopment and protection of the city’s remaining architectural heritage. It's not about celebrating the colonial era which, of course, was a traumatic period for the Vietnamese people, but rather about helping people to understand their past better. Preserving and re-using old buildings where it is possible to do so is also environmentally sound. But above all, these old buildings bring charm and character to the city and emphasize its uniqueness. Many of them are historically significant and this can be a magnet for tourists which helps to regenerate neighborhoods and provide more jobs for local people."
History Education
For those interested in a deeper understanding of how Vietnam’s past is reflected in its present:
"I think one of the biggest ironies is if Me Linh Square which has been re-fronted - Chad Kubanoff (backofthebiketours. you go to any travel agency all over the several times so that it now bears little com) leads street food tours created and world, they will sell Saigon on its colonial resemblance to the original." managed by professional chefs. charm. And yet, its colonial charm is being But when it comes to preservation, the - Experience major shifts in 20th and knocked down every day,” remarks Sophie. question is: Whose responsibility is it to 21st century Vietnam through the eyes of In his upcoming book, Exploring Ho hang on to the past? artists with Sophie Hughes (sophiesarttour. Chi Minh City, a book of history walking "These problems were highlighted com) tours, Tim notes: “Since I started writing at a seminar by the Ho Chi Minh City the book in 2011 I've had to amend the Architects Association and they stem from - Tim Doling leads specialist history tours text on numerous occasions to reflect the fact that as yet the city’s development of HCMC. Contact him at 0128 579 4800 the demolition of what I would regard as strategy doesn't include a master plan or or email: [email protected] heritage buildings. The art deco apartment legal framework to conserve historical block at 213 Dong Khoi, another unlisted structures and sites. It's really important - Bridget March (bridgetmarch.com) can be found painting cityscapes along with structure which even appears in Graham that someone takes an inventory of what's budding artists in HCMC and Hoi An Greene's The Quiet American, is being still there and protects the surviving and soon Sapa (starting early June) demolished as we speak. Then there's the buildings before it's too late. And of course related issue of unfettered modification only the government has the power to do of historic buildings, such as the original this," says Tim. 1868 Chambre de Commerce building at 11 Sophie adds: "Those buildings are
39 clockwise from top: City Post Office, St. Joseph's Seminary, Nghia Nhuan Assembly Hall, Hanh Thong Tay Church
40 SAVING THE SOUL OF SAIGON
The ongoing battle to preserve the city’s heritage buildings
Text by James Pham Images by Adam Robert Young
Once referred to as the "Paris of the conserved. Identifying these targets among to the Vietnamese themselves first and Orient," Saigon offers glimpses of the past experts and specialists is fine, but if the public foremost. Expats can only help. If it’s the through its shady, tree-lined avenues and its shrugs their shoulders, it will be very hard. expats who care ― talk about it, write about charming heritage buildings, be they Chinese Secondly, how much of a building needs to be it ― but the Vietnamese don't, then it won't or French-inspired. A tangible part of what conserved? It is not necessarily 100 percent. go anywhere. makes the country distinctive, these buildings Then there’s the whole issue of resources. are part of a cultural heritage just as unique The more complicated the conservation work The situation of the ancient town of Duong as its sidewalk coffee culture, the art of is, the more expertise and research you need Lam (50 km from Hanoi), designated as water puppetry or the haunting melodies of and that costs money. a national relic for its centuries-old mud Northern ca tru folk music. and wood houses, illustrates the challenges Unfortunately, that history is fast PB: The main challenges are to promote of community involvement. A number of disappearing with every heritage building discussions with the residents to know how residents, unhappy with severe restrictions torn down to make way for commercial they live and how they want to adapt their on construction, recently signed a petition spaces, every villa abandoned for lack of city to modern evolutions. What historians asking the government to revoke their resources or interest, every renovation that and researchers in social sciences can heritage status just months after receiving eats away at the soul of these grand edifices. contribute is to collect materials, pictures, UNESCO’s Award of Merit for Cultural Saigonese have a saying: Live in District 3, maps, narratives of daily life and so on that Heritage Conservation. What successes, eat in Cho Lon, play in Saigon (District 1). can help in the study of urban space which is though, have you seen in the region? However, these very areas are in danger of crucial to defining the future orientation of losing what makes them so unique. the city. TN: Duong Lam village illustrates the cost A study conducted between 1993 and of conserving heritage. The people had to 2013 by PADDI, the Ho Chi Minh City TK: The redevelopment threat is intense live in small houses; when their children Urban Development Management Support and increasingly challenging. For example, got married and they wanted to rebuild Centre, found that of 377 heritage buildings according to a recent inventory, there are or renovate, the procedures were too catalogued in Districts 1 and 3, more than 56 1,586 French villas in the French Colonial complicated. Being designated a heritage site percent had been demolished, degraded or Quarter of Hanoi, and most of them are in a didn't bring any benefits to the actual people, significantly altered. state of deterioration due to no maintenance materially or in spirit. Ticket revenues Oi gathered a panel of experts to discuss and the fast rising number of inhabitants. weren’t filtered down to the people. the challenges, successes and failures of Up to about 10 households share the same On the other hand, Hoi An is a great preserving the country’s heritage buildings. villa. Additionally, many valuable old example of having inclusive participation. buildings have been badly modified in forms City officials had the policy of involving the The Panel: of "redevelopment" or "adaptive reuse" in a locals, and the result is now practically the negative way for commercial purposes. entire town is behind the tourism initiatives. ● Dr. To Kien, Senior Research Scientist, Con Dao, with its French colonial prison and Singapore University of Technology and Conservation is sometimes seen as a limited tourism, is also a very special product Design luxury, often promoted by non-residents where you have history and natural beauty. who like seeing these old buildings. Whose It’s an example of combining natural heritage ● Pascal Bourdeaux, French historian responsibility is it to preserve heritage conservation with historical conservation. and representative of the École Française buildings ― Vietnamese or foreigners? d'Extrême-Orient in Ho Chi Minh City The government or the people? CQ: Some of Saigon’s heritage villas belong to organizations with the resources ● Ton Nu Thi Ninh, academic, diplomat, PB: This is definitely a shared responsibility: to maintain them like embassies, foreign parliamentarian turned socio-cultural & local authorities to attract people, local representative offices, wealthy citizens, etc. educational advocate people to show why they are attached to But some privately owned villas like Ly Club these specific sites, tourists that must respect Saigon have been successful at retaining their ● Chu Pham Dang Quang, Urban the sites and their inhabitants. character while giving them new life, mixing Conservation Researcher the classical with the modern but respecting TN: It’s true that in times of hardships and the original architecture. What are some of the challenges in deprivation, conservation might appear as preserving heritage buildings? a luxury. But once you pass that threshold, What are other countries doing regarding time is of the essence. If you wait too long, conservation that Vietnam may be able to TN: The first challenge is to identify and the things you want to conserve won't be learn from? build consensus around what needs to be there anymore. The responsibility belongs
41 Historian Tim Doling points out that heritage buildings have their own intrinsic value. In addition to being aesthetically pleasing, they each have a story to tell. Preserving them can also make sound economic sense. “By making it a living instead of dead heritage, we can turn it into a valuable tool, first of all for revitalizing neighborhoods. Heritage-led regeneration is a major growth industry. It can increase property values and encourage the growth of heritage tourism. It has been shown repeatedly in other countries that ‘heritage tourists’ stay longer and spend more money than other types of tourists, so by making serious efforts to develop heritage tourism, this city could potentially benefit financially. In addition, people enjoy living and working in them as well as visiting them. They also foster a sense of community; they create a sense of place.” However, in order for real inroads to be made, the right people need to get involved. At a recent seminar on urban conservation, Nguyen Trong Hoa, President of the Ho Chi Minh City Institute for Development Studies said that “there's always been a disconnect between the experts and the ones who are actually tasked with implementation. Perhaps we just need to talk louder. We should be making these arguments directly in the office of the city's officials.” As far as we the people are concerned, will we be the generation that will save these beautiful reminders of the past? Or the one that will allow them to disappear?
Still Standing
Visit Tim Doling’s top five favorite Ly Club heritage buildings in Saigon:
St Joseph’s Seminary CQ: France has tightly controlled TN: Taste is a matter of individual choice. - Built in 1863, (6 Ton Duc Thang, D1) features somber conservation policies which provide tax Some may be completely uninterested in the architecture in an otherwise noisy city. breaks [the Malraux Law allows expenses architecture of old buildings. To those, you of repair, maintenance and improvement need to put it as, “This is your past.” You can - Look for the traditional Khmer motifs of recognized buildings to be deducted build the present and future several times in the City Post Office (2 Cong Xa from income for tax purposes] supported over but you cannot build the past over. If Paris, D1), installed three decades before by state and local government. France also you destroy the past, then there are only French urban planner Hébrard made the has a national architecture organization memories in the heads of certain people who "Indochinois" fusion architecture popular. which catalogues, evaluates and monitors then will die. Fine Arts Museum restoration works. There are many places where you can - The building (97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1) fuses oriental and make piles of money. It's too easy to say, “I'll Western art deco elements. TK: In Singapore, tourism was re-introduced do it on Dong Khoi or Nguyen Hue streets.” during the 1985 recession to revive the But it's all filled now. Stop it! Set your eyes - Hanh Thong Tay Church (53/7 economy. With this new conception of and your sights elsewhere. Don't tell me the Quang Trung, Go Vap District) is an conservation empowered by economic only place where you can make money is that extraordinary Byzantine-style church, the pursuit, restoring and re-adapting the old, little triangle of land in downtown Saigon. It's only one in Vietnam. underused, dilapidated buildings became ridiculous. lucrative investments due to increased land In the end, if we want to conserve, then - Nghia Nhuan Assembly Hall (27 value and proximity to the city center. we have to be better ― better at economics, Phan Van Khoe, D5) was showered with amazing artworks by wealthy better at tourism, better at innovation. I’m businessmen and leaders and remains one Some have the conception that bao ton not against people making money, but please of the most underrated temples in the city. (preservation) is synonymous with bao come up with smarter solutions. tang (museum), equating conservation For more on these and other heritage with putting something in a box and not sites, see www.historicvietnam.com doing anything with it. What can be done to educate people and investors on the value of these heritage sites?
42 COLONIAL CLONE
Carving out a little corner of France in the tropics
Text & IMAGES by James Pham
Dalat Train Station
Indochina in the latter half of the 19th Many succumbed to climate-related illnesses 4338 km journey to the French convalescence century was not a good place to be a colonist. including malaria and death-dealing bouts center in Yokohama, Japan; or an arduous In fact, it was downright deadly. of nostalgia. With the mortality rate for 10,000 km ocean crossing back to France in "One cannot acclimatize to the colonies: colonial troops due to disease twice as high less than hygienic conditions where it was each day brings a further diminution of as in France's North African colonies, it was not uncommon for 50-60 patients per sailing strength. Cochinchina is a terrible man- suggested that four and a half years was the to perish en route. eater," proclaimed General Theophile longest any European could hope to survive Vertical relocation, seeking cooler climes Pennequin. Colonists bound for Indochine in the region. Others deemed this estimate and living conditions similar to home (a French portmanteau of India and China, too long, predicting an inevitable death in no but nearby, was clearly the better option pointing to the region between those two more than two. ― cheaper, faster, easier ― with hopes countries) received what amounted to a death of arriving alive. Built on the prevalent sentence, recalling that Parisian doctors "took Up or Out? presumption of the day, that "like meat, leave [of us] as if they might never see us The only hope for severely ill colonists was Europeans keep better in the hills," colonial again." to escape from the very thing making them hill stations were already de rigueur, like An observation published in an 1892 report ill ― Indochina itself ― a complete change of Darjeeling in British India, Bogor in Dutch summed up the dire situation: "The soil is environment, whether horizontal or vertical. Indonesia and Baguio in Spanish-colonized excellent, the water abundant year round. Horizontal repatriation involved long and Philippines. One could become rich in a year, were it expensive transport, itself a deadly option: a All told, the French would ultimately set not for the fact that one dies in six months." slow steamer to Saigon's hospital; a 12 day, up a network of hill stations, including Bokor
43 clockwise from top: French villa, Dalat greenhouse, Dalat Train Cafe, Ana Mandara Villas
in Cambodia, Sapa in Tonkin and Tranninh due to colonial abuse and horrible working (where the Plain of Jars is located) in Laos, conditions. As if that wasn’t enough, but the jewel would forever be Dalat. emerging medical data showed that the In the search for this Utopian home away malaria-carrying anopheles mosquito did not from home, Swiss-born doctor Alexandre go into shock at 1500 meters (the altitude of Yersin, noted for discovering the bacillus Dalat) as had been believed. causing bubonic plague, nominated the Lang "With the increase Bian plateau in the Annam highlands as a The Price of Earthly Paradise in families settling site for a future sanatorium, "a vast, barren Still, work forged ahead on what was to plateau featuring rounded hills". be Indochina's European escape, exacting down in Dalat, came a Over the next 20 years, other explorers horrific human tolls. By 1908, a colonial likewise scoured the country for the source estimated that approximately 20,000 culture of leisure and perfect spa location with places like Ba workers, both ethnic Vietnamese and Ria (near Vung Tau), Bavi (near Hanoi) highland minority (and prison convicts), socializing previously and Ba Na (near Danang) nominated and had lost their lives, mostly to disease, in subsequently dismissed. In the end, the building routes connecting Lang Bian to unknown, away from Lang Bian region won the hill station the outside world. In French Colonialism on race, favored for its salubrious climate and Trial, Ho Chi Minh noted: "Requisitions [of the suffocating heat of altitude and large undeveloped land area labor] are nothing more than ill-disguised allowing for future expansion. deportations. where death awaited. the lowlands" The problem now was converting this Underfed, going in fact days without food, inaccessible, high altitude plateau into a the requisitioned or those serving the corvées corner of France, a disease-free space for either revolted or fled, provoking a terrible European domestic life. The isolated location repression on the part of the guards, and meant huge convoys of porters were needed dotting the road with their corpses." to bring supplies to the area. A paved road Yet, for Dalat to ever succeed, rail and between Phan Rang and Dalat was built roads were imperative. As early as 1898, in 1899 but labor shortages were common Yersin predicted that "Europeans will find
44 a climate reminding them of France, mere hours by train from Saigon". It was decided that Dalat would employ cog technology to overcome the steep gradients, emulating the Darjeeling line in India. His vision, though, would have to wait for more opportunity to try weasel coffee (with a visit Indochic to where the civets are kept) and a trip to the than three decades. Work started and scenic Elephant Falls. sputtered, with frequent stoppages due to Finding Your Own Corner of high construction costs and a reluctant France in Modern Day Dalat The hills of Dalat along with its cool and diseased workforce who could not be temperatures are ideal for hiking. "French enticed even by quadrupled salaries. people... who took an automobile or were Only with World War I did Dalat get Bon Appetit carried for even the shortest distance on its mojo back. The U-boat menace and Located just up the hill from the city’s the way here, are able to hike in Dalat, for the Great War in general meant colonists art deco train station modeled after the the fun of it, between 10 and 15 kilometers were now staying in Vietnam much longer Deauville-Trouville station in Normandy, the a day on the many beautiful paths and Dalat Train Villa and Cafe (dalattrainvilla. forest walks," noted one colonial inspector. and therefore needed a cool retreat. Over com) is situated in a cluster of colonial- The gorgeous three-needle pine forests the next few decades, Dalat turned into a era stone villas. Now managed by train surrounding Tuyen Lam Lake make for thriving resort, offering visitors a cure from enthusiast Curtis King, the adjoining cafe is a moderate day trip. Phat Tire Ventures homesickness, malaria and anemia, a respite a whimsically restored 1910 train carriage, (phattireventures.com; USD37) takes hikers from Indochina itself. serving up rather good Vietnamese and by boat past beautiful lake views featuring With the increase in families settling international fare (mains from VND79,000). new and old villas with tiered flower and down in Dalat, came a culture of leisure Train lovers will want to pair a visit to the vegetable gardens before entering the and socializing previously unknown, away cafe with a nostalgic trip to the train's only fragrant forests for a climb to the top of the from the suffocating heat of the lowlands. stop of Trai Mat, a little town 8 km away locally named "Noc Chua" summit where a whose main attraction is the mosaic'ed Linh light lunch awaits. Rowing parties, tennis tournaments, horse Phuoc Pagoda (VND43,000 one way, leaving races and hunting (gaurs, tigers, panthers, on a regular schedule when there are at least Bonne Nuit bears and elephants) marked the heady 20 passengers). If Curtis is around, ask him A concentration of colonial-era villas can heights of the 1930s. about his experiences driving steam trains, be viewed along panoramic Tran Hung Part of Dalat's appeal was in its ability doing the hobo ride in China and exploring Dao street, otherwise known as Dalat's to grow fruits and vegetables reminiscent all 11 of the stations from the original 84 km French Quarter. A few of the buildings are of home, a welcome change from imported Dalat - Thap Cham route. derelict, while most have been converted canned goods. So prized was European to residences, boutique hotels or coffee produce that fresh artichokes were Built in 1922, the Lang-Bian Palace (now shops. However, why just look when you the Dalat Palace Hotel) emerged as the can actually stay? Ana Mandara Villas considered the ultimate in hostess gifts as place for European luxe in the burgeoning Dalat Resort & Spa (anamandara-resort.com; were melons, pears and grapes. In Dalat's city, complete with a first-class French villa room doubles start at USD119) is a temperate climes was seen the potential of restaurant, riding facilities and a dancing breathtaking collection of 17 unique colonial- turning the area into Indochina's French hall, all while overlooking what is now Xuan era villas, each originally constructed pantry, with experimental gardens soon Huong Lake. For the wealthy but not quite between the 1920s and '30s and fully yielding red lettuce, Brussels sprouts, radishes wealthy enough to afford a trip back to the restored to the tune of VND120 billion. Care and strawberries, not to mention European metropole, the Dalat Palace Hotel offered was taken to keep as much of the original varieties of flowers along with coffee and tea. a replica of home. The hotel's signature character as possible, from the small stones Because the city was basically created restaurant, Le Rabelais, has a feel of a posh for the pathways to using painted tiles Parisian salon, and serves up the produce reminiscent of the era. Rooms in the villa from a vast expanse of nothing, it was of Dalat with a French twist, like the Dalat share beautifully decorated common spaces an urban planner's dream. All public and artichoke flower salad with aioli sauce. Or including spacious sitting rooms, outdoor administrative services could be housed in for a wonderfully refined experience, come terraces and open fireplaces for those cold a single quarter. Houses were electrified for afternoon tea, which includes French Dalat nights. The discreetly landscaped and had indoor plumbing. Residential areas favorites like macaroons, éclairs, bon seven hectare grounds are perfect for long, were set away from noisy and unclean bons and madeleines in addition to savory healthy walks. areas. Early plans stipulated "all houses for sandwiches. (3 - 5pm daily, VND330,000 per Europeans in Dalat must be surrounded by person) Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa can a garden, and enjoy sufficient aeration and also have you traveling like the bourgeoisie Because Dalat's Vietnamese laborers and during Dalat's golden era in its own 1936 views". Among the city's many planners residents came from all over the country, Citroen convertible. Set itineraries for a was Louis-Georges Pineau, a proponent locals today are hard-pressed to name one city tour, rural expedition and a scenic tour of preservation. His 1932 plan called dish that is a specialty of the region. Instead, visiting Tuyen Lam Lake and Lang Bian for "protecting Dalat's natural beauty, home cooked meals make use of the fresh Mountain start at USD40 per person. enlarging its artificial lake, developing produce, like artichoke soup with short ribs. gardens, establishing zones adapted to the Try this simple but hearty soup at Le Café de Bons Livres site and the climate" and open spaces of la Poste, just next to the Dalat Palace Hotel Two books are required reading for those all sorts. Providentially, many of the city's (VND190,000). who want to understand how Dalat came to villas were built during the time his plan be. The beautifully illustrated Da Lat ― And Bon Voyage the Map Created the City by Olivier Tessier and was in effect. Get a better view of the Lang Bian Plateau Pascal Bourdeaux of the Ecole Française Dalat enjoyed another surge in by heading outside the city where you'll see d'Extrême-Orient (paperback, 225 pages, popularity when world war once again Dalat's agricultural machine in full force Nha Xuat Ban Tri Thuc) combines research stranded many Europeans in the colonies. with rows upon rows of greenhouses filled taken from archives kept in Vietnam, It reached its zenith in the first half of with flowers, fruits and vegetables. Wild France, Switzerland and Japan, marking the 1940s, aided by a new road putting Vietnam (wildvietnam.com; USD25) takes the 120th anniversary of the foundation of Saigon just six hours away by car or by visitors to Dalat's countryside, past Koho Dalat. Imperial Heights: Dalat and the Making daily return train trips. By 1944, the city minority villages, strawberry fields and and Undoing of French Indochina by Eric registered 750 private villas, numerous artichoke flowers growing in the sun, and Jennings (hardcopy, 376 pages, University where much of the natural beauty which of California Press) is an exhaustive tome government offices and the summer estates drew colonists to the region is still intact. of research tracing the city of Dalat from of Bao Dai, the last emperor of Vietnam, Stops on the full day motorbike tour include conception to 1975, and was the main source enjoying 20,000 permanent residents and a fascinating look at how silk is made, an of historical information for this article. the same number of annual visitors. After decades of backbreaking work, death and disease, a little piece of France had finally emerged in the hills of Dalat.
45 CHAMPIONING CHAMPASAK
An ancient city in Laos rises to the heritage challenge
Text by Jean-Charles Castel
an important historic record of the Hindu religion above and beyond its role as a Buddhist pilgrimage site. Its annual religious festival in February or March attracts tens of thousands of pilgrims. UNESCO named it a Heritage Site in 2001 thanks to its historical, religious and natural qualities.
USD8 a Month Per Agent Recognizing the exceptional nature of the site was the easy part. However, because the site is made up of a group of villages in a poor and isolated rural area, the difficulties were yet to come. When the Lao authorities wanted to create a World Heritage Site Office, the only workers they could find were local residents. The lack of financial and human resources was telling in the face of the challenge of managing a region of its size and importance. Archaeological remains, for example, cover over 1,000 km2, whereas the World Heritage Site Office human resource
BY sa gv provided image manager had a monthly budget of only USD8 per agent to ensure protection patrols. The question of institutional piloting is no Imagine for a moment traveling back from autonomous individual village life to easier. The UNESCO site counts more than 1,000 years to explore complex palaces and building the first of their cities, complete with 60 villages in four districts. It is very difficult temples nestled in the mountains where a royal administration. The ancient city of to implement building permit controls on nature and humanity lived in harmony. Champasak was most probably the original such a large scale, especially since the village Where a vast landscape of the legendary capital of the Chenla State, the first Khmer chiefs are not trained to deal with heritage Khmer Empire was created on the Mekong Kingdom. Beyond this, aerial photography problems. River using the mountaintop and river bank has shown a very dense ancient occupation Champasak today has become a living as an axis to lay out geometric patterns of of the entire plain in a radius of 40 km lesson in heritage management in a poor shrines and waterworks extending over some around the site. Champasak is the ancestor of rural context. Local staff have learned 10 kilometers. Champasak, in southwestern Angkor, an ancient road linking Champasak to use extremely simple tools. The rule Laos, has been preserved as today’s gateway to Angkor bearing witness to the strong ties book, for example, is only four pages long. to this ancient past. Although often compared between the two sites. The computerized inventories and city to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, it is much less The monumental religious complex of planning documents are all open source, so well known. Champasak’s secrets and its Vat Phou in the very heart of the site was maintenance is free. stunning concentration of sanctuaries – the founded in the 5th century but what visitors Archaeology, architecture, landscape: largest in Southeast Asia – are known only to can see today dates back to the 11th century. local staff are present on all fronts and go archaeologists. Most of the previous remains are no higher into villages to teach the residents about the This area is of major scientific interest than foundations while others are buried wealth of their heritage and offer solutions since it dates to the Pre-Angkorian underground which makes protecting and to avoid unnecessary demolition. However, period, which lasted from the 5th to the restoring them difficult. their greatest enemy is time. The economy is 8th centuries, and is largely unexplored. Situated on the right bank of the Mekong growing at such a pace that little time is left You can find the largest treasure trove of River, the site had long been cut off from for those who wish to preserve this precious information about it in Champasak. The the rest of the world. Until 2011 there were and fragile heritage. region offers us a unique window into that no access roads from Pakse. This isolation world, helping us understand the currents helped maintain its natural environment and Bio: Jean-Charles Castel is the Head of the and pressures that led to the first urban preserve traditional wooden architecture, French Priority Solidarity Fund for Southern revolution in Southeast Asia. It was here, as well as many remarkable brick buildings Lao Heritage, World Heritage Site Office of Vat more than 1,500 years ago, that people went from the French era. The site also contains Phou - Champasak
46 WineIMAGE BY adam robert you ng& Dine
Beo Gap Nuoc
47 RESTAURANT REVIEW
Eat Like a Breton From galettes to cider, sample the cuisine of Brittany right here in Saigon text by Michael Arnold IMAGES BY Ngoc Tran
The humble pancake, one of the bistro menus. character of Brittany, inescapably framed oldest dishes in the world, isn’t usually the Whether it’s out of a sense of chest- by its wild coastline – there are more first that comes to mind when speaking beating nationalism or just plain lighthouses standing on Breton crags than of haute cuisine. Simple, inelegant, and homesickness, La Creperie’s (17 Le there are in the rest of France put together, fairly easy to make, it’s the one generally Thanh Ton, D1) mission to popularize and it’s seafood more than anything else unremarkable meal that’s found in almost the fine fare of the Breton motherland in that dominates the region’s cuisine. The every culinary culture. There are, however, Asia has been largely welcomed, and the lighthouse is the emblem of the restaurant; certain places on Earth where pancakes Ho Chi Minh City restaurant has proved images of lighthouses struck by crashing serve as a modest base for extraordinary successful enough for the franchise to waves hang throughout the venue, and poetries of cooking – Vietnam, to an expand into two locations in Cambodia with the lower walls lined in brick like extent, being one of them. Yet even the this year. Part of the winning formula is rustic French homesteads, you’re within delicious banh xeo, for all its crispiness the eatery’s almost fussy dedication to the right frame of reference for sitting and fresh herbal garnishes, cannot hold a quality – while importing cereals here down to a meal deserving of the region. candle to the sheer diversity of the Breton may seem counterintuitive, La Crêperie’s Questions of authenticity aside, galette, the buckwheat version of the buckwheat is brought in direct from home La Crêperie’s menu does make some French crêpe that is the staple of provincial so as to achieve the most authentic taste concessions to the local Vietnamese Brittany.Galettes serve as a clean slate for – as is the cider, for which the region is culinary sphere. The Brittany rolls a whole realm of possible recipes – but otherwise famous. Likewise, while the (VND95,000) are an obvious tribute with the rich, pungent tastes of Breton French-sailor-themed décor may strike to Vietnam’s spring rolls, made out of cuisine generally little-known outside experienced diners as seeming a tad kitsch rolled galettes and sliced into bite-sized of the region, they’re most often seen as (even the wine racks have prows), this portions. The similarity ends there, curiosities buried in the lost folds of French too is a quintessential reflection of the however, with the range of fillings (beef &
48 "That there is the essence and purpose of this restaurant – no matter how familiar you may be with this particular mode of cooking, La Crêperie is home-style food"
spinach, caramel pork, and spicy chicken) egg, cream, and mustard – a combination – the restaurant serves imported Val de served warm and chewy with a chunky that should be particularly pleasing for local Rance fresh from a northeastern brewery consistency that takes on a rich barbecue diners but which should equally delight near Mont Saint Michel – or try a simple tone from the near-crispy shell pan-fried non-Asian patrons with finely-honed tastes. homemade lemonade (VND45,000) with in butter – eat them quickly, as they’re at Dessert is pancakes again, although its strong, definite flavors to match those their best when they’re warm, and don’t these are the true flour-basedcrêpes of the dishes – served with local honey forget to use the dipping sauces. more familiar to fans of French cuisine, and tasting just like grandma made it, no The range ofgalettes serving as mains although again leaning towards the richly matter where she’s from. That there is the offers a microcosm of the breadth of Breton resonant flavors associated with Brittany. essence and purpose of this restaurant cooking, and the inherent intensity of tastes Crêpes taken with ice cream and chocolate – no matter how familiar you may be for which the cuisine is properly known are sauce are pleasant enough, although with this particular mode of cooking, exploited in full. For a more Western palate, diners would be well-rewarded with a La Crêperie is home-style food. As the the La Bigoudène (VND185,000) with its Le Baromètre crêpe (VND95,000) served venue’s current manager Mickael Guego crispy edges folded into a neat square over with apple, salted butter, and caramel. puts it, “This is all just typical Brittany, its ham, emmental cheese, egg, and salad A complex dish characterized by an this is my home right here, in Vietnam. filling, is a classic dish served drizzled with understated, slightly burnt butterscotch Every week, every Friday evening, my a bracing French dressing – it’s somewhat flavor brought on by the caramel and with mother cooks this for me.” In representing reminiscent of a banh xeo, but closer in taste a hint of cinnamon, the apples are not too honest-to-goodness Breton culture here to the somewhat more pedestrian croque sweet and cooked at their best, set off by in Saigon, La Crêperie offers a window madame. For a more exotic variety, the La the subtle salty taste of the base. to the region that’s just hard to find in Piano (VND245,000) is more odiferous with Take a meal at La Crêperie like a true other venues serving more generic French its rich, gamey smoked salmon, spinach, Breton with cider in a bowl (VND95,000) cuisine.
49 RESTAURANT REVIEW palace an g by s h provided images
of tempura. Laid back in the shell they were served with a layer of chili salt and pepper. “They’re babies, even at 300g!” Kim An jokes. For the uninitiated, mantis prawns yield very sweet, tender meat. They do Chinese Delights distinguish themselves in taste from their famous cousins, the tiger prawns. Classic Cantonese food For the main course the chef served us seafood noodles (VND250,000). Imported text by Julian Ajello from Hong Kong, the egg noodles are boiled, strained, and then pan-fried leaving them crunchy on the outside yet tender on the inside. The texture was not altogether different from cake. They received a generous coating of brown gravy along When entering Shang Palace (17 Ly prawn dumplings (VND75,000 for four). with bok choy, prawns, mushrooms, squid, Tu Truong, D1), the first impression is Normally reserved for lunch, dim sum and scallops. Definitely the heartiest of one of elegance. The dining area is formal, makes a tasty starter to whet the appetite. those we saw, this selection is plenty to but lovely. While the restaurant is widely A limited selection of dim sum appetizers share with another, perhaps for three known for its dim sum, we visited to try is available on the dinner menu ranging in depending on the size of the meal. some of their classic Cantonese dishes. price from VND60,000 to VND100,000. The To finish up the meal, Kim An prepared Shang Palace’s executive chef, Kim An, seafood dumpling soup (VND75,000 each) chilled cream of mango with ice cream hails from Malaysia and learned his craft in came out next and was also delicious and (VND90,000). The mangoes were from Kuala Lumpur under the tutelage of a chef light; both were served in modest portions. Thailand, and thus much sweeter than the from Hong Kong. He explains that cuisine Hearty eaters might prefer to opt for an native variety here in Vietnam. The vanilla in China is as varied as the country itself. extra order of dim sum. ice cream was from New Zealand and was While Cantonese cooking is well-known Our favorite dish, and the most coated with poppy seeds, which was an around the world, it isn’t as spicy as others interesting we encountered, was the mantis interesting twist. Chopped strawberries from China such as Szechuan or Hunan prawns in chili salt and pepper (market finished the dessert off with a pleasant, cooking. “Cantonese is much less strong, price). If you’ve never seen one before I tart flavor. even a little bland for some people,” says recommend you see the live ones in the Cantonese cooking is a departure from Kim An. "But we get very creative with our tank. Their appearance is hideous to the many of the spicy cuisines China has to ingredients and can prepare things in many point of looking alien. But looks, as they offer. While there are many wonderful different ways.” often can be, were deceiving. Once boiled dishes to try, it’s helpful to request We experienced a set menu prepared and separated from their shells, the prawns recommendations from the chef, and even to by Kim An that started off with steamed are deep fried in a light batter reminiscent ask him to prepare his favorites.
50 The List
Wine & Dine cakes for every occasion. seating around the central bar as well as bakeries Harvest Baking 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 tables for couples or larger groups, plus a 3824 8179 more intimate VIP area with comfortable ABC Bakery & Cafe Harvest Baking offers a delivery-based 5am - 10pm sofas, you will find the right space for any The bakery serves more than 30 bakery service with a charitable focus, occasion. different baked products ranging from teaching young Vietnamese hopefuls Savouré Bakery 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 baguettes to pizza slices, along with a how to bake delicious breads and cakes Shops have a wide selection of cookies, www.blanchystash.com wide selection of drinks such as coffee through their food training program. sweet and savory breads and cakes 090 902 8293 and fruit juices. 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh including cashew chocolate, taro and 223-225 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 3547 0577 orange. Custom cakes can be ordered for Blue Gecko harvestbaking.net weddings and holidays. 7am - 5pm Monday-Saturday Unit E3, 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, Blue Gecko provides a classic bar Bread Talk experience complete with a pool table, With a mission to revitalize the once-stale 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 darts board, cold beer and friendly staff. business of bread, Singaporean BreadTalk Kinh Do Bakery 3914 3773 Guests can watch live sports and relax in now has outlets throughout Asia and www.savourebakery.com the comfortable ambience of the bar. has established itself in several HCMC Kinh Do Bakery makes reasonably priced 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 locations. A brand partnership with Gloria baked goods to-go, such as cakes and Schneider’s Cafe & Tea Corner 3824 3483 Jeans has seen a wide range of bakery cupcakes, tarts, sandwiches, Vietnamese The bakers at Schneider’s offer fresh, [email protected] goods available in the cafés, with both “banh bao”, Western-style hamburgers healthy, delicious breads, cakes, and and mini-pizzas and gelatin-based pastries, introducing Ho Chi Minh City to www.bluegeckosaigon.com brands sharing the premises at this 4.30pm - 12am location. desserts. eight centuries of German baking tradition. 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 128A Hai Ba Trung, D1 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Bootleg DJ Café 3930 3181 3829 6552 2229 6910 kinhdobakery.vn www.schneiders-finest.com Modern, moody, and minimalist cafe bar 6am - 10.30pm 9.30am - 9pm Brodard Bakery with reasonable prices by day, chic lounge with DJs playing by night. Has a limited Brodard Bakery has been operating in La Doree Tous Les Jours menu of sandwiches and other health- Saigon for over 30 years. It provides finely Providing patrons with over 50 varieties of conscious Italian fare. crafted cakes for all occasions in addition cakes, along with a rich sandwich menu A Korean owned French-style bakery franchise serving fresh baked bread and 9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 to ice cream, pastries, chocolate and tarts. from luxurious French-designed premises. popular pastries, all baked on-site. 090 760 9202 95 Nguyen Hue, D1 La Doree is the best place in town for 180 Hai Ba Trung, D1 [email protected] 3821 2416 macaroons. 3823 8302 6am - 10pm 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Boston Sports Bar 3822 1718 6am - 11pm Cheesecake Ngon Oi’s Pick www.ladoree.com Located in the heart of the backpacker Cheesecake Ngon is a small boutique- 7am - 9.30pm area, Boston Sports Bar is open 24 hours style cheesecake shop. They use only bars and provides guests with a modern top quality local and imported ingredients L’amour Bakery & Cafe bar-going experience. The bar boasts a that give their cakes their signature More than just another bakery, L’amour Ahoy Beer Club pool table, live sports on LCD TVs, and Recently opened, this nautical themed smooth, creamy taste. They can provide is the perfect place for those whom are western food. bar serves local and imported beer cheesecakes for all occasions: birthdays, looking for respite from busy HCMC. 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 along with food served by wait staff in functions, cafe/restaurant supply or This patisserie offers a large selection of 6656 6338 sailor outfits. even just a single slice. With a range of European cake and pastry, fresh juice and 79 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 flavors including passionfruit, raspberry, coffee. You will also find pastas, salads, Broma Saigon Bar strawberry, lemon, coconut and of and sandwiches, ideal for lunch time. Open from 6am – 10:30pm Allez Boo Famously known for 'not being a bar' course original and a price starting at 24 Hai Ba Trung D1 Broma is one of Ho Chi Minh City's most VND40,000 per slice. A popular bar in Saigon featuring tropical 44 Truong Quyen, D3 popular hangouts with prices ranging bamboo decor, multiple levels and a DJ from VND30,000 - VND500,000. Broma www.cheesecakesnow.com Nhu Lan Bakery spinning funky beats. This unique bar One of the most famous and prestigious is a more upscale option for those wishing 3610 0211 offers a wide range of beers, shakes, local brands of bakeries in the city, Nhu to escape the cheap drinks in The Pham. spirits cocktails and food throughout Lan Bakery supplies bakery products, 41 Nguyen Hue, D.1 Fly Cupcake the day. cakes, bread, ham, sausage, poultry, 3823 6838 The shop specializes in various flavors 187 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 roasted pork, and dried foods. [email protected] of cupcakes. 6291 5424 74E Hai Ba Trung, D1 50 Ham Nghi, D1 [email protected] Cargo Bar 06 Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 3829 2970 24 hours www.flycupcake.vn www.nhulan.vn Cargo Bar is a dedicated music and 4am - 12am arts venue designed and committed to Alpha delivering diverse entertainment, along Givral Alpha is a sports bar recently opened on with a good drink menu. The cakes and tradition of this unique Pacey Cupcakes the first level of The Manor. Offers weekly 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 cake shop have captivated generations This cozy little bakery features elegant promotions such as Manor Mondays www.facebook.com/cargosaigon of Vietnamese customers. With many décor and offers 12 kinds of cupcakes (happy hour all day for Manor residents), outlets throughout the city, this particular daily, located near the cathedral in a hip, Teacher Tuesdays (happy hour all day store was reopened in 2010 on its original modern setting. Carmen Bar for teachers), Thirsty Thursdays (two for Carmen Bar features a small cavern-like site at Vincom A, built on the old Eden 53G Nguyen Du, D1 one on all cocktails), Sport Saturdays entrance with rough rock walls decorated complex. 3823 3223 (screening sports from around the world) with ambient lighting. With an exclusive 171 Dong Khoi, D1 [email protected] and on Sundays movie nights by the range of drinks and cocktails, guests 3822 8659 www.paceycupcakes.com pool and a roast dinner. can relax while enjoying tunes from an www.saigongivral.com 9am - 10pm The Manor, Level 1, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, excellent Flamenco band. 6am - 10pm Binh Thanh 8 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Paris Baguette 3829 7699 Gourmand Shop Korean chain Paris Baguette offers fresh Bernie’s Bar & Grill baked products such as cakes, pastries, Chill Skybar A traditional delicatessen shop featuring bread, as well as assorted coffee and An Irish bar and restaurant serving Offers the most stunning panoramic freshly baked baguettes, croissants, tea drinks. They also serve sandwiches international cuisine like pizza, burgers, views of Saigon and a wide range of chocolate breads, charcuteries, pastries, and salads. pasta and more. Celebrates happy hour te x pats wines and cocktails personally prepared finest macaroons and other French Nguyen Thi Minh Khai corner Cao Thang, D1 from 5 to 7pm, and frequently provides by Vietnam mixologist Le Thanh Tung. delicacies prepared daily. Special products Vincom Center A, 171 Dong Khoi, D1 live music. Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1 imported from France are also available 2 Cao Thang, D3 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.chillsaigon.com such as French oysters, Damman Freres www.parisvn.com 3822 1720 luxury tea, and a range of authentic Boudoir Lounge products. Pat’a Chou Blanchy’s Tash Ground floor, Sofitel Saigon Plaza French-style bakery with charming décor. This cocktail lounge is a perfect place to Designed to look like a lived-in yet 17 Le Duan, D1 Specializing in baguettes, fresh croissants relax with friends, meet with colleagues or immaculately styled Parisien home with 3824 1555 of various varieties, small quiches, and just enjoy a cocktail or two. With plenty of ©2013 A L istings C opyright ©2013 plush leather sofas, silk cushions and
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 51 velvet armchairs, Boudoir Lounge serves Cloud 9 Rooftop Lounge Ginger 60 8 Le Quy Don, D3 up everything from afternoon tea to 090 534 3316 evening cocktails along with signature Located near Turtle Lake, this stunning bar A low-key expat bar with an extensive www.barsaigonheaven.com dishes for any occasion from informal 5pm - 2am offers panoramic views of Saigon. Guests drink menu and live music in a friendly meals and business lunches to gourmet can peruse an extensive international atmosphere. canapés accompanying evening drinks. 60 Ton That Thiep, D1 Ice Blue Ground floor, Saigon Sofitel Plaza wine list or choose from an array of creative cocktails and international beers. 093 772 1011 17 Le Duan, D1 A small, atmospheric, emphatically Level 6&7, Hai Nam Building, 2 Bis Cong 3824 1555 Go2 English-style pub, Ice Blue is a popular Truong Quoc, D3 meeting place for Ho Chi Minh City’s 090 944 5544 Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Go2 is a popular nightspot in the expats with reasonably priced drinks, Restaurant backpackers area. This two level bar offers friendly staff and a cozy atmosphere.
Cold Beer Club dancing, shisha, and a streetside view Great place to play darts. The HCMC venue is in the flashy Kumho The bar features Beer of the Day with comfortable seating. The bar also 54 Dong Khoi, D1 complex on the edge of the central Promotion all day, and also offers a 2 for has a pool table and extensive western 3822 2664 district, and features a wide 24-meter 1 deal on the beer of the day. Prices start food menu. 3pm - 1am restaurant frontage on the mezzanine at VND30,000. The upstairs room can level and a contemporary and chic setting 187 De Tham, D1 accommodate big groups. 3836 9575 Kim’s Tavern with German-inspired wooden benches 64 Ton That Thiep, D1 and a long wooden bar counter. Serving 3914 3999 An expat bar on the edge of the authentic Bavarian cuisines and premium Hair of the Dog downtown shopping district renowned for beers. A large space creating an interesting bar friendly, attractive staff, cold beer, and a 39 Le Duan, D1 Eon51 with an alfresco sidewalk area downstairs, Eon51 includes a fine dining restaurant, a relaxed ‘local pub’ environment. 9822 4206 and an upper lounge area overlooking the 20 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 brotzeit.co/kumholink champagne lounge, a cigar bar and a heli lower bar that allows for a view of the DJ pad cocktail bar. Spread on three levels, station. If it follows its Hanoi theme, it will 090 777 5141 Chilli Pub Saigon Oi’s Pick Eon51 is a destination for bespoke private be a DJ music-focused nightclub. 4pm - 1am and corporate events in Saigon. 194 Bui Vien, D1 A fun place to unwind, with cold drinks, Levels 51-52, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Last Call Oi’s Pick good music (customers can choose the Hai Trieu, D1 Hard Rock Café music) friendly staff, light pub food, weekly 6291 8751 A fine hole-in-the-wall cocktail bar in the quiz night (Mondays), darts and televised www.eon51.com Memorabilia from Hard Rock’s iconic centre of town opposite the Sheraton sport. Try a challenge shot from the big 7am - 2am collection adorns the walls of Hard Rock Hotel, Last Call is a 70's themed lounge Chilli on the bartop. Café Ho Chi Minh City and there is live with a permanent neon glow. Now one 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 music most nights. Located in the Kumho of the most popular expat/hip local late Game On evening bars, with a small deck from 09 8376 3372 Opened in July, Game On is Saigon’s Plaza complex. 39 Le Duan, D1 which to overlook the nightlife set on [email protected] newest and biggest sports bar that serves 6291 7595 Dung Du. 4pm-4am breakfast, lunch and dinner. The bar also www.hardrockcafe.vn 59 Dong Du, D1 has an extensive drink menu that includes 11.30am - 2am 3823 3122 Chu Bar coffees, juices, beers, wines, vodkas and te x pats At this beautiful, laid back venue, tourists more. Besides being a good place to Heaven Bar Saigon Le Pub and locals alike can sit around Chu’s large watch games, Game On also boasts a oval bar or on luxurious padded benches. function room for corporate meetings or Standing out from other nightclubs, In a brawny Australian snub to the effete It has a full cocktail menu as well as a private parties. Heaven Bar impresses their guests with vestiges of French Colonialism that short menu of snacks and sandwiches. 115 Ho Tung Mau, D1 nice decor in tone of red and blue, a broad pervade in Saigon, Le Pub is a hearty 158 Dong Khoi, D1 6251 9898 range of sparkling drinks, Ladies’ night, Oz-styled pub proudly located in a small 3822 3907 [email protected] awesome DJ at weekend, and many alleyway between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui 7am - Midnight 8am till late exciting events for expats. Vien st, Opposite the Chua Au lac arch, A L istings C opyright ©2013
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 52 where it is a magnet for backpackers and Storm Petersen, and it’s the only Danish Blue Cafe blokey expats. The manager and staff are restaurant in Vietnam. friendly enough too, I suppose. 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 A sprawling, unique cafe in Go Vap, with 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 3827 4738 indoor-outdoor seating and an attempt to 3837 7679 www.stormp.vn recreate the appeal of rural Dalat. Enjoy www.lepub.org 10am - late the shade inside, or sit outside amidst the greenery and watch aircraft taking off from Lion Brewery and Restaurant Vasco’s Ton Sat airport. Extensive menu and broad The brewery offers its signature Lion beer, range of coffees and chilled drinks. brewed by its German master brewer, Stylish bar, restaurant and cocktail lounge who trained in Germany, along with other 701-703 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap in a converted colonial style house. 3588 6824 kinds of beer. The Lion restaurant has two European and Asian fare downstairs banquet halls that can accommodate 530 www.mtvcafe.com.vn with extensive wine list and cocktails. DJs 7am - 11pm persons. perform upstairs at night. 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.lionsaigon.com Bobby Brewer’s RED Bar 3824 2888 Long Phi RED offers one of the longest Happy www.vascosgroup.com A contemporary cafe in the backpacker One of the staples in the backpacker Hours in Saigon, from 9am - 9pm, area set over three floors, the cafe with live music available from Monday district, Long Phi is a no-frills bar that Wine Embassy features a large free cinema, a great - Saturday. This multi-level bar has For those looking to relax and enjoy a doubles as a cheap diner serving some place for couples. a non-smoking floor and a function glass of wine after work, Wine Embassy is fairly decent French and European cuisine. 45 Bui Vien, D1 room along with a top quality pool the perfect place with wine specialists and 207 Bui Vien, D1 table and soft-tip dart machines. A 3920 4090 an interactive menu to help you pair your 3837 2704 menu of Eastern and Western dishes www.bobbybrewers.com also includes wood-fire pizzas. wine with crafted food. Lush 70-72 Ng Duc Ke, District 1 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Boulevard Cafe Lush has a highly distinctive, modern look, 2229 7017 3824 7827 www.wineembassy.com.vn with different areas catering to different This Parisian-style cafe has a fine, white 4pm till late needs, including a VIP space with plush tone and a warm ambiance that attempts couches for chatting with hot new friends. Saigon Saigon Bar 11am - late a look of luxury with its plush sofas and 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 In wartime Saigon, the rooftop of the chandeliers. www.lush.com.vn Caravelle hotel was one of the most Xu Bar 98 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan A cocktail hot spot with Coconut Martinis, popular drinking holes in the city for M52 Bar foreign journalists and expat embassy Cranelo Sparkles and Passion Fruit Caprioska on offer along with a variety Bukafe - Cafe staff – and it remains one of the most A bar catering primarily to foreigners. of tapas with DJs and drink specials sought-out casual tourist attractions in This quaint cafe offers a Japanese style Offers a simple setting for a night of throughout the week. the city today. Panoramic views of Saigon setting with chairs that have you seated drinking in the company of friends. 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 can still be obtained on the garden terrace on the ground. While offering elegant 34 Ton That Thiep, D1 www.xusaigon.com despite all the construction, and efforts drinks and tasty simple dishes, make sure 3821 0151 have been made to preserve the original to catch the live bands. It won't set you 5pm - 12am character of the venue with its multiple back much either with inexpensive drinks. ceiling fans, subdued decor, and quietly cafés 43 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 Miss Saigon Oi’s Pick romantic atmosphere with oil candles on 090 265 2635 the table tops. ABC Bakery & Cafe [email protected] Recently opened, this quaint and cozy bar 19 Lam Son Square, D1 ABC Bakery & Cafe has over 30 different offers great service and delicious cocktails 3823 4999 kinds of baked goods such as baguettes, for those looking to quench their thirst www.caravellehotel.com/en/1/15/325/ danishes, whole cakes, sliced cakes and Café Ban Sonate after work. Beers start at VND30,000 products.aspx even pizza. Together with its range of Cafe Ban Sonate is a peaceful haven, and cocktails start at VND55,000 with baked items, it is also has Western and tucked away from the boisterous noise happy hour from 6pm – 8pm where beers Saigon Retro Oi’s Pick Vietnamese coffee and juices. of the city. This cafe offers elegant decor cost VND20,000. Open from 6pm to 223 - 225 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 along with indoor and outdoor seating midnight. One of the newest expat bars on the www.abcbnc.com options. 8A/1C1 Thai Van Lung, D1 block, offering friendly bar service. Live 53 Dang Dung, D1 sport on screen, including English Premier 3290 6004 Number Five Bar Achaya Cafe League. Number Five Bar has become notorious 113 Ho Tung Mau, D1 for its “all you can drink” draught tiger beer Achaya Cafe have two floors providing a Caffe Fresco 6278 2349 offer. Attractive waitresses are always nice atmosphere for meeting, relaxation or 4pm - 2am A new player on the scene currently enthusiastic contestants on the billiards party. The menu is extensive with drinks battling for supremacy in the coffee chain table. and Western, Japanese, Vietnamese Shots Bar market, Fresco offers a wide range of 44 Pasteur, D1 food from sandwiches, spaghetties, A corner bar on Bui Vien that, along with espresso and local coffees, juices and 3915 3150 pizzas, steak and special Japanese sweet drinks, serves a variety of food such as smoothies. [email protected] seafood, pork and chicken dishes. desserts. 121 Le Loi, D1 3pm - 1am 207 Bui Vien, D1 90 Le Loi, D1 093 897 2050 3821 1009 O’Brien’s Oi’s Pick Slate 11am - 10:30pm www.fresco.com.vn Two-storey Irish-themed bar & restaurant furnished to high standard. O’Brien’s Slate takes its name from the dark grey Aisha Lounge Café Terrace promotes a relaxed, comfortable slate tiling that covers the floor of the atmosphere. Known for its excellent food entire establishment. A modern, relaxing Aisha offers a menu studded with various Cafe Terrace is a popular modern cafe/ menu, this is a fun place to socialize while spot for an after-dinner drink with an Vietnamese drinks and food – although restaurant in the chic Saigon Center. This shooting pool, playing darts, or chatting extensive martini list and delicious BBQ the belly dance show does evoke the cozy, dimly lit cafe offers customers a long with the friendly staff. menu. A tad difficult to find above a BMW spirit of the interior design. outdoor terrace with views of the bustling 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 dealership, but accessible from the hotel it 63/1 Pasteur, D1 pedestrian and traffic scene. A second 3829 3198 is worth the effort. 6660 9040 cafe is located on the first floor amongst www.irish-barsaigon.com 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen www.aishalounge.com fashion stores. Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Ground Floor & First Floor, Saigon Centre, Phatty’s 3844 9222 65 Le Loi, D1 A sports bar offering a selection of ice- AQ Coffee 5pm - 11pm Beautiful café situated in one of the city’s cold local and imported beers as well as a oldest French mansions, serving coffee Cafe Vuon Kieng complete range of tasty pub food. Central Spotted Cow made with traditionally-roasted coffee features are the TVs, connected to an beans. Cafe Vuon Kieng is a quiet, casual cafe extensive sports channel network. Hearty breakfasts, great pub grub, cheap 32 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 near the banks of the Saigon River, 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 drinks and the latest sport on TV make 3829 8344 boasting relaxing views and refreshing this an appealing destination for tourists 7.30am - 11.30pm breezes. This riverside cafe offers jasmine te x pats Purple Jade of all budgets. Located in the heart of the
A tea, coffee, ice cream, beer, even cocktails. Purple Jade is a stylish and chic venue backpacker district. 10B Ton Duc Thang, D1 with exceptional world class cocktails by 111 Bui Vien, D1 Angel-in-us Coffee 3823 3279 the city’s award-winning bartender along 3920 7670 A sophisticated and classy coffee with snacks to melt away the bustle of [email protected] franchise with exemplary attention to the city. 11am - 12pm detail, Angel-in-us has a pretty angel wing Cake Durian Duiro First floor- InterContinental Asiana Saigon motif and a quality coffee menu. Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Storm P 145 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A chain of cafes selling durian inspired 3520 9099 Storm P restaurant and bar is named after 3827 8588 crepes and buns with prices under VND100,000. ©2014 C opyright L istings www.intercontinental.com/saigon the famous Danish cartoonist Robert facebook.com/angelinuscoffeevn
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 53 Kiosk in Le Thi Rieng Park, 875 Cach Mang brand, the menu and décor of Elle Cafe literally covered with books. An easy 46 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Thang 8, D10 sets it apart from the competition. place to get lost for an evening with prices 3926 0388 093 333 9365 Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 45 below VND100, 000. www.banhsaurieng.com Ngo Duc Ke, D1 58 Ho Bieu Chanh, Phu Nhuan May Coffee 6291 8766 090 956 0105 A superb, friendly, and inexpensive little Centrofarms Coffee Oi’s Pick www.facebook.com/ImagineCafeShop café most notable for its perfect view This recently opened cafe, located near Fe Cafe 09 0956 0105 of the Cathedral tower bells and close the airport, sells its own eponymous brand Fe Cafe brings you all kinds of [email protected] proximity to the post office. of Centrofarm organic roasted beans scrumptious coffee, along with 8am - 10pm 1 Cong Xa Paris, D1 direct from Dalat with indoor and outdoor Vietnamese food and dessert. It offers 3827 7099 seating that’s perfect for people watching breakfast, lunch, dinner and offers delivery Kebab Cafe www.maycoffee.com and getting your daily dose of caffeine. as well. The interior is a mix of alternative 19 Ut Tich, Tan Binh and fancy, with wooden furniture, soft The healthiest kebab! Featuring an Minhu Coffee backrest pillows and decorative paintings. excellent homemade white sauce, fresh 26 Ly Tu Trong, D1 veggies and chicken or pork marinated This specialty cafe offers a wood Chi’s Cafe without oil. The French owner also serves furniture interior setting, which resembles 090 878 3788 savory and sweet crepes and a home- the cabins you would expect to see in the Chi’s Café is a restaurant serving www.facebook.com/fecafe.vn made puree. western North American frontier. Live both Western and Vietnamese food 7:30am - 11pm 538/2/8 Doan Van Bo, D4 bands are a regular feature at the cozy in the backpacker area. The menu 01648 805 915 cafe and prices are inexpensive. is extensive, with everything from Gemmi Coffee This cafe serves a variety of food like [email protected] 149/35 Le Thi Rieng, D1 sandwiches and pizzas to their 3601 9319 salads, chicken dish alongside coffees www.kebab-cafe.com popular baked potatoes with filling. 10am - 10pm 40/31 Bui Vien, D1 and other beverages. Provides live solo piano music every night from 8pm. MTV Cafe 3836 7622 193 D3 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Kem My Providing a relaxing atmosphere after a Ciao Cafe This quiet ice cream shop is the perfect hard day’s work with some of the top hits Hatvala place for families and couples to indulge out today, MTV cafe is the perfect place to
An icon in downtown HCMC, Ciao cafe their sweet tooth. It offers a fresh release unwind with that special someone or just This tea house, coffee shop and features two floors serving simple food, from the heat of Ho Chi Minh City. a cup of coffee. restaurant offers selected, quality coffee, smoothies and ice cream – and 11 Duong 41, D4 65 Vo Van Tan, D3 an opulent lounge bar on the top floor. Vietnamese tea and coffee to drink or to 093730 3030 3930 2597 Antique tiles mix with velvet curtains buy as leaves and beans. They also have www.kemmy.vn mtvcafe.com.vn and stylish paintings to make this a a delightful all day casual dining area in 3.30pm - 11pm memorable chill out environment. their stylish bistro. MZ Coffee 44 Nguyen Hue, D1 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 Kesera A cafe in a colonial villa that was built in 3824 1534 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 the early 20th century. It boasts a broad 8am - 11pm A cozy and friendly café/bar serving selection of Cosmo Lounge [email protected] coffee, beer, wines, freshly- baked coffee, from fine Vietnamese condensed www.hatvala.com homemade cakes and delicious milk coffee to Italian Lavazza expresso, www.facebook.com/hatvala Cosmo Lounge is a popular location Western food. cappucinos for stylish and trendy locals and expats 26/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 and lattes as well as wines and beers. alike. Chill out in a bold blue and white Hi-End Coffee keserakesera.com 56-56 A Bui Thi Xuan, D1 environment with local and European 39255258 Located near the leafy Tao Dan Park, Hi- cafe food and a broad selection of coffees Kopi Beans www.m-zing.com End Coffee is one of a few venues serving and drinks. up just as much music as caffeine. Kopi Beans Cafe is a favorite among 86 Bis Le Thanh Ton, D1 NYDC 126 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 high school kids. It’s a small takeaway 3823 5848 3824 1004 coffee shop with cheap espresso and A fun, dynamic and cosmopolitan place Open to 10pm iced coffees. for food, desserts, beverages and not Cooku’s Nest 206 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 forgetting the company of good friends. Prices range between VND100,000 - Cooku’s nest has a clean, artsy vibe Gloria Jean's Australia’s most popular coffee franchise L’amour VND300,000. offering drinks and snacks. now has a solid presence in Ho Chi Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 13 Tu Xuong, D3 Minh City with multiple locations in the A stylish bakery and cafe new to Hai 3822 9992 2241 2043 inner city. While the favourite Dong Khoi Ba Trung, in the city centre, L'amour www.nydc.com.vn address has now been given over to a specialises in cakes and desserts and Crèperie & Café Sony store, new venues in Vincom A and serves Illy Coffee. Eat in or take away. Onset Cafe at CMT8 prove this favourite brand with 24 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Inexpensive Western fare targeted mainly locals and expats alike is steadily growing 3520 8180 This lounge cafe features live bands at locals, delivering some fairly decent in Vietnam. www.lamourbakery.com and is a good setting for work events low-cost sandwiches. 2 bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 or business meetings. With bold interior 5 Han Thuyen, D1 www.gloriajeanscoffees.com/vn LightBox Cafe furniture it is a popular respite for Ho Chi Minh residents. Cryptic Acoustic Cafe Highlands Coffee This stunningly designed cafe also 319 Ly Thuong Kiet, D11 Cryptic Acoustic Cafe features an doubles as an event and photography 6670 7092 architecture that blends classic and With over 50 cafes in Vietnam, Highlands studio, so make sure you dress to [email protected] modern elements. Featured drinks Coffee serves up international and impress at this location because you include Cryptic frappe (the combination traditional Vietnamese blends. Coffee never know who might snap your picture. Paris Deli They also serve vegetarian cuisine with of coffee and Orion cake, banana lovers can also find Highlands premium prices ranging between VND300,000 - and fresh cream), Cryptic soda (soda, quality blends in selected hotels and A French style cafe serving some of VND500,000 flavored orange peel, lemon and supermarkets. the best pastries in Saigon, this cheerful 179 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan spot is a real slice of Parisian life. Many fresh cream) and Cryptic yogurt (with Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 yogurt, mango, strawberry, peach). 3517 6668 European drinks and dishes. This place also holds acoustic and art i-Box Cafe www.lightbox.vn Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 performances. 3821 6127 343/6 To Hien Thanh, D10 L’Usine iBox cafe is a unique, cafe with aristocratic L’Usine is a retail, café and gallery decor. This decorative cafe specializes Passio Coffee to Go space occupying two locations in the in red wine, Asian dishes and spaghetti. DeJa Vu Cafe center of D1. Its retail space is dedicated Passio Coffee offers its guests fine They also offer an extensive selection of to Vietnamese designers and more Italian style coffee made from the finest It is easy to mistake this cafe for ice cream creations. established brands from abroad as well ingredients. Since Passio’s inception in someone’s home as the tranquil 135 Hai Ba Trung, D1 as stocking a wide range of stationary 2006, this enthusiastic team of coffee atmosphere will have you tension free 3825 6718 and home ware items. The café in both brewers has become recognized by in no time. The peaceful setting is ideal locations serves international fare and international coffee drinkers. for dates or low-key social events. Make ID Café a range of pastries and the ever popular 112 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 sure to catch the live bands that frequent Sweet & Sour Cupcakes. te x pats the cafe. Separated from the bustle of nearby Ben 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Phuong Cac Cafe A 314/2 Dien Bien Phu, D10 Thanh Market by a tiny alleyway, ID is a 70B Le Loi, D1 6276 6966 retro café opening a door to an earlier www.lusinespace.tumblr.com With indoor and outdoor lounge areas this [email protected] Saigon. 9am – 9pm cafe is a relaxing respite from the grind 34D Thu Khoa Huan, D1 of Ho Chi Minh City. With live bands and Elle Cafe Le Tokyo Baum drinks under VND100,000 it makes for Imagine Coffee shop the perfect getaway. Keeping in line with the sense of style that Popular Japanese cake cafe with quiet Bis 213 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 One of the walls of this rustic cafe is seating area, specializing in orange cakes. comes along with the Elle fashion label 3932 7484 ©2014 C opyright L istings
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 54 Phúc Minh Coffee tranquility, comfort and great drinks in the distinctive dining experience. heart of Saigon chinese 12 Duong 26, D6 Phuc Minh coffee is an airy, clean Ground floor – InterContinental Asiana 3755 1577 environment providing a varied menu and Saigon Dragon Court www.7kyquan.com delicious coffee. The staff is attentive and Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan quick with a friendly approach. Prices start 3520 9099 Dragon Court is a large restaurant Shang Palace Restaurant around VN 25,000 for this simple cafe. www.intercontinental.com/saigon opposite the Opera House in Saigon’s 51 Hung Phuoc 4, D7 bustling District 1. Enjoy Chinese dishes The slightly off-centre, high-class Norfolk Tram Coffee Oi’s Pick from many regions with dishes like glass Mansion Hotel on Ly Tu Trong is home Princess and the Pea noodles, hot pot, and a large dim sum to one of Saigon's most well-respected A unique romantic cafe experience collection. Chinese restaurants outside of Chinatown. A fairytale-themed venue for the hidden well off the beaten track, but close 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Located on the 1st floor, Shang's dark dreamers of Ho Chi Minh City, hidden to District 1 in neighbouring Phu Nhuan 3827 2566 intricate wooden tables and chairs with away in a tiny alleyway off Pasteur. District. Sip a coffee, juice or beer or white linen and deep red carpeting make Discover it if you can. indulge in good cafe food over candlelight for an atmosphere of moody opulence; in a dark, intimate environment hidden Dynasty 63/18 Pasteur, D1 there is seating for over 300 guests, and amongst trees and trickling streams. Relax New World hotel's in-house Chinese private rooms are available. in an air conditioned room or dine alfresco restaurant is certainly a venue of fine 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion Retrobite Diner Cafe amongst the greenery. The perfect spot to Inspired by the concept of 1960s contemporary Chinese dining. The chef 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D1 impress a date with your local knowledge. Americana, bi-level Retrobite Diner Cafe offers a variety of authentic Cantonese 3823 2221 100 Tran Huy Lieu St, Phu Nhuan features an interior that includes booths, dishes along with classic dim sum under a 2240 5306 retro egg chairs, jukebox and classic radio high lantern/chandelier-lit ceiling, in a broad Shi-Fu Dim sum players. The menu is mostly American dining room decorated in classic Chinese food with sandwiches, hamburgers, The Myth Cafe Shifu Dim Sum House is a restaurant style. VIP guests can dine in one of four pastas, steaks, milkshakes, waffles and specializing in dim sum, with modern Escape the daily grind of Ho Chi Minh City semi-private or thee totally private rooms. more. Chinese décor and over 68 dim sum dishes. with a trip into the mystical setting of Myth New World Hotel 6 Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 139A Nguyen Trai, D1 Cafe. With live bands and prices under 76 Le Lai, D1 3521 0673 VND100,000 it's no wonder The Myth 3822 8888 3925 1111 [email protected] cafe is one of the best around. www.saigon.newworldhotels.com www.dimsumhouse.vn 7:30am - 11pm 176 Dien Bien Phu, D3 3820 9735 Hung Ky Mi Gia Yu Chu Soho Coffee [email protected] Yu chu is renowned for the quality and Hung Ky Mi Gia is a famous and long- presentation of its authentic Cantonese Two level local cafe chain serving light standing restaurant with more than 13 and Peking cuisines along with its elegant meals, coffee and local chilled drinks. Trung Nguyen Cafe years of operation. It serves traditional décor. Watching the chefs prepare 185 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 One of the most ubiquitous coffee Chinese cuisine with authentic dishes signature dishes such as hand-pulled 3839 5038 brands in Vietnam. With a burgeoning such as roasted chicken, duck, and pork. noodle, dim sum and Peking duck right in 7am - 11pm presence throughout the city, it’s hard 20 Le Anh Xuan, D1 the kitchen is a prominent dining feature to go anywhere without tripping over a 3822 2673 here. Starbucks Coffee Trung Nguyen café – serving gourmet First floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon Vietnamese street coffee. Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Has a large, open ground floor space with Kabin 26B-C Le Loi, D1 3520 9099 ample seating in booths and tables, and a www.intercontinental.com/saigon smaller space upstairs with views out on Kabin is a Cantonese restaurant the busy Nga 6 Phu Dong roundabout. The Serenata Cafe specializing in exotic dishes such as baked duck tongue, grouper cutlet, and lobster Also has outdoor seating. Expect to pay The Serenata Cafe is a peaceful, relaxing Western prices. soup. Located in the five star Renaissance french oasis in a French Colonial house. This cafe Riverside Hotel, this restaurant offers a 76 Le Lai, D1 embraces nature with plants, fishponds, wide variety of dim sum. Annamite and small fountains, and offers music in Annamite specializes in French cuisine Renaissance Riverside Hotel, Stella Restaurant & Cafe the evenings. within a modern setting. 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 6D Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 21 Tu Xuong, D3 3822 0033 Providing authentic Italian and 3930 7436 6277 8332 Vietnamese food using fresh imported www.annamite-restaurant.com and local premium-quality ingredients. Vecchio Cafe Li Bai Chinese Restaurant Where else can you find such good The interior features Italian ornate décor, Located in the Sheraton Hotel, Li Bai offers a selection of over 50 dim sum Au Manoir de Khai coffee/cuisine at such reasonable prices? dim lighting and antique furniture, 119-121 Bui Vien, D1 dishes as well as traditional Chinese and enhanced by Italian music. Offerings Au Manoir de Khai is an authentic, first 3836 9220 Cantonese specialties. Diners will enjoy include pasta, soup, chicken dishes, class French restaurant. Guests can enjoy www.stellacaffe.com salad, beef dishes, gelato and beverages the relaxed, upscale ambiance provided traditional French cuisine in this classic such as smoothies, fresh fruit juices by the wood paneling and oriental art. 100 year old villa. Their menu is extensive The Blue Cafe and tea. Level 2, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 and features dishes like Kobe beef, foie
39/3 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 3827 2828 gras, red grouper, and truffle mushrooms. A spacious cafe divided into two different www.libaisaigon.com 251 Dien Bien Phu, D3 areas with a lush, outdoor garden seating Windows 3930 3394 lounge and an air conditioned in-door Ming Court lounge. The Blue Cafe has live music with A highly fashionable cafe near the drinks under VND100,000. Augustin cathedral. For many years, this eye- Since the Nikko Hotel graced the Saigon Augustin is a romantic and charming 701-703 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap catching venue has remained a place to skyline, the venue has managed to set the French restaurant located just steps away 3588 6824 see and be seen, often frequented by standard for classy, five-star dining with its from the Rex Hotel. Serves lunches and the famous, the well-to-do, and the ne’er bold grey modern decor and Japanese-style dinners and offers 10 percent discount on do well. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf efficiency. Ming Court, on the hotel's third a la carte menu items. 12 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 floor, is a large Chinese restaurant with all 10D Nguyen Thiep, D1 Offering over 22 varieties of coffee and 38238408 the expected graces of the Orient belonging 20 kinds of tea, The Coffee Bean & Tea www.augustinrestaurant.com to the exotic fantasy of the dynastic era. Leaf has been serving the best coffees Yogen Fruz 3rd floor, Nikko Saigon Hotel and teas from around the world for more Serves frozen yogurt with 20 different Bon Appetit 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 than 40 years in its cozy, handcrafted oak kinds of fruits for you to choose from. 3925 7777 paneled stores. This place also provides an environment A small French-Vietnamese fusion bistro www.coffeebean.com.vn where customers can relax and be on Pham Ngoc Thach with a simplistic 7am - 11pm social. Ocean Palace charm enhanced by a fine selection of A place for those who love Chinese food. 39 Le Duan, D1 B3-15B Basement Vincom Center B, 72 Le old-style French music. The large dining room on the ground floor Ground Floor, Crescent Mall Thanh Ton, D1 78 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 can accommodate up to 280 diners. Up Ton Dat Tien, D7 www.yogenfruz.com.vn 090 789 8345 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 on the first floor are six private rooms and 39 Le Duan, D1 Zoom Cafe Oi’s Pick a big ballroom that can host 350 guests. Bonjour Restaurant 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 2 Le Duan Street, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 3911 8822 Bonjour serves up international dishes with a te x pats This distinctive Vespa-themed Café has A 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 been a popular fixture in D1 for ten years. French flair. The large menu of main courses 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Today, the café serves as the place for Seven Wonders (Bay Ky Quan) feature roast duck, salmon, lamb and steak 1-5 Le Duan, D1 Vespa enthusiasts and tour veterans It’s worth traipsing out to D6 for this one. Not with specialties being ostrich and venison. 60-62 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 to swap stories over ice-cold beers and only are the Dim Sum, Peking Duck, and 150/26 Nguyen Trai, D1 1-3 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 what many claim is the best selection pan-China home-style cuisine exemplary, 3926 0699 of mouth-watering burgers, paninis, and but the venue design, with its architectural The Library baguette sandwiches in town. flourishes from the seven wonders of the Cordon Blue The Library provides a welcoming 169A Bui Vien, D1 world (including the Great Wall, the Taj
©2014 C opyright L istings atmosphere for those in search of 3920 3897 Mahal, and the pyramids) makes for a highly A unique French venue decorated with blue
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 55 and green shades serving high-quality French ago and pretend they're actually in Paris. for people booking in groups. service makes it a relaxing dinner venue. cuisine on the outskirts of the inner city. Whether dining outside under the shaded 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ground floor, on the Corner of Nguyen Du & 38 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 terrace or within the old, warmly-lit villa, 3823 1372 Le Van Huu, D1 3822 5216 the cuisine, decor, and general mood of www.ashokavietnam.com 3520 9099 www.cordonblue.vn the place is like a Stargate direct to France. 6.30am - 10.30pm 31D Thai Van Lung, D1 Baba’s Kitchen Oi’s Pick La Cuisine 3825 8465 Capricciosa Baba’s Kitchen, also known as the best This ultra-fine little bistro is an exercise in Le Paris Indian restaurant on Bui Vien, is familiar You'll find the standards here – pizza, minimalism with its twenty seats and bare, Le Paris has an interior that features among expats and locals alike, rating chic-rustic interior of wooden furnishings depictions of Eiffel Tower, Seine River pasta, soups, salads, with a few special 4.5 out of five stars on Trip Advisor. Their and black & white photographs on and Notre Dame Cathedral. Food dishes such as calamari and onion in whitewashed walls. Its warm lighting offerings include French, seafood, vindaloo is a must try. squid ink sauce. They're all prepared and clean atmosphere belies a certain steaks and vegetarian dishes. 164 Bui Vien, D1 according to strict Japanese standards, sophistication, however, and the price of 45 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 3838 6661 and the result is actually really good. www.babaskitchen.in the fare is significantly damaging enough www.facebook.com/leparisrestaurant Booth B3-03A, Level B3 11am - 11pm to make this a rare treat for those not in Vincom Tower, 70 Le Thanh Ton, D1 the restaurant's fabulously wealthy target Le Steak de Saigon 3993 9786 market. Drawing inspiration from French Bollywood www.capricciosa.com.vn 48 Le Thanh Ton, D1 steakhouses, Le Steak de Saigon serves Complete North & South Indian Cuisine. 2229 8882 imported and local meats, with beef Special Chaat & Tandoori Dishes. Parties, www.lacuisine.com.vn fondue and table-side beef tartare as Events & catering service available, Daily Casa Italia the most recommended. Aside from Lunch tiffin and Set menus. La Creperie table service, the restaurant offers take- Free Delivery(All Phu my Hung) Italian owned & run, Casa Italia’s menu La Creperie is the first authentic Brittany out and delivery as well. 22131481 - 22450096 ranges from home-style cooking that French restaurant that serves savory 15 Dong Du, D1 0938069433 includes steaks, seafood, a large variety galettes, sweet crepes with tasty seafood 3822 4593 Hotline: 0906357442(English) of homemade pastas, jumbo salads, and www.lesteakdesaigon.com [email protected] appetizers and the best pizzas. the best apple cider in Saigon. facebook: bollywoodvietnamindiancuisine 86 Le Loi, D1 17/7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 L’Olivier (for complete menu) 3824 4286 3824 7070 www.casaitalia.com.vn [email protected] L’Olivier is a restaurant serving authentic Mon-Sun 11am-11pm Mediterranean cuisines, located on the Bombay Indian Restaurant Located in D1 near the Ben Thanh Market 2nd floor of the Hotel Sofitel. La Fourchette Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 area, serving Indian & Halal cuisine. The 3824 1555 ambiance is relaxed thanks to Bombay’s Small and cozy, La Fourchette is a favorite www.sofitel.com easy-going, family kitchen vibe. amongst the French expat community. 57-59 Ham Nghi, D1 The vintage posters and wood paneling Le Rendez-Vous de Saigon Oi’s Pick 9am - 10.30pm add to the charm of this French eatery A new wine bistro that offers a warm and located downtown, a stone’s throw from friendly atmosphere. Unwind either in their Ganesh the Saigon River. stylish downstairs bar, or lounge on cozy 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 leather seating in the upstairs section with Ganesh serves authentic northern Indian 3829 8143 a balcony overlooking a courtyard in an tandooris & rotis along with the hottest Oi’s Pick www.lafourchette.com.vn alley. The venue offers a tasty selection of Ciao Bella curries, dovas, and vada from the southern wines from France to South Africa, and a region. Hearty home- delectable menu of French cuisine. La Nicoise 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 style Italian food 9A Ngo Van Nam, D1 8223 0173 served with flair and excellent service. A small, friendly French bistro with about www.lerendezvousdesaigon.com www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com An extensive menu is complemented a dozen tables, La Nicoise serves up 6291 0396 with daily specials. Arriving guests are typical French dishes under the watchful greeted with a free glass of Prosecco. eye of its French-Vietnamese owners. Oi’s Pick Indus Indian The Refinery Diners sit in a cozy setting upstairs 56 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Indus Indian is a relatively new Indian or on the ground floor for people 3821 3056 This Parisian bistro hidden away in its enclave on Hai Ba Trung is an exceptional restaurant in Saigon providing all the watching. Big groups should book in L'essentiel venue, making for an elegant reparation classic Indian favorites. Operated by advance. of the sins of the past. It was here in a dedicated husband/wife duo, this 11 Dong Du, D1 L'essentiel offers a quiet intimate dining French Colonial days that opium was restaurant specializes in Halal food. 3822 3329 experience downstairs with space for manufactured, bringing ruin to the people 2G Thi Sach, D1 [email protected] private functions and alfresco dining on of Asia; it is here that a far softer side 3521 0324 www. saigonrestaurant an upper floor. The menu changes weekly, of the French culture now exercises group.com/ciao the food is fresh and the wine list carefully its influence over present-day Saigon, Mumtaz collated. serving modern European cuisine in its 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 tastefully decorated dining area and airy With bona-fide Indian owners and chefs, Chef Mamma’s 0948 415 646 outdoor patio. authenticity at Mumtaz is guaranteed. Chef Mamma’s is located at Saigon’s 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 While the service and setting is relatively Superbowl Center offering a variety of Le Bordeaux 3825 7667 basic, the food is amongst the best of its Italian and Asian food. The restaurant www.therefinerysaigon.com type in the city in terms of taste alone. The opens from early in the morning until Set in a French colonial-style mansion, Le brand has a second branch in Da Nang late at night serving breakfast, lunch Bordeaux serves southwestern French Ty Coz Oi’s Pick city if you're ever on holiday and missing and dinner. cuisine in a beautiful setting. Known for its your curries. A43 Truong Son, Tan Binh foie gras and large selection of wines, Le An unpretentious venue focused only on 226 Bui Vien, D1 Bordeaux is worth the trip to Binh Thanh serving great cuisine. Ty Coz provides a 3837 1767 district. fine balcony view of the cathedral, intimate Da Vinci’s 72 D2 Street, Binh Thanh atmosphere, and affordable prices. Da Vinci’s is an Italian-American style 3899 9831 178/4 Pasteur, D1 The Punjabi pizzeria delivery offering pizzas, lasagna, restaurant-lebordeaux.com.vn 3822 2457 spaghetti, calzones, salads and desserts. 11.30am - 1.30pm; 6.30am - 9.30pm www.tycozsaigon.com Authentic North Indian cuisine prepared Their full menu is online at www. in a home-made tandoori oven makes davincisvietnam.com. Free delivery to Le Bouchon De Saigon Vatel Saigon Restaurant Punjabi a popular spot for budget Districts 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and Phu My Hung. conscious eaters who crave Indian Open 11am - 10pm. standbys like spinach naan and chicken Red and white checked tablecloths and This is a fine, well-managed, and even Call 083 943 4982 or tandoori. closely set tables make Le bouchon luxurious dining venue serving authentic SMS your order to 093 328 4624 de Saigon the place to go for a casual, French cuisine in a Franco-Viet design 40/3 Bui Vien, D1 classic French bistro experience under space. There's red carpet along the 3508 3777 the eye of iron chef Vietnam winner entrance way, gallery-standard art on Good Morning Vietnam David Thai. the walls, and an overall atmosphere of 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 refinement and good service. italian Italian restaurant with a unique menu www.lebouchondesaigon.com 120 bis Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 including traditional Italian dishes. The 08 5404 2220 1960 Presidential Club restaurant is conveniently located in a Le Chateau de Saigon vatelsaigon.com 1960 Presidential Club is a member- beautiful old house in the heart of Saigon, Situated in a small but romantic French only restaurant with an interior design well integrated in the local architecture. villa, Le Chateau De Saigon Restaurant inspired by Saigon in the 60s. You will 197 De Tham, D1 is designed to accommodate any kind indian experience more traditional style of 3837 1894 of event. Whether it is dinner with family Italian cuisine with an extensive menu www.thegoodmorningvietnam.com and friends, or a passionate evening with Ashoka led by chef Franco Buressi. te x pats your loved one, Le Chateau De Saigon will Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular A provide a sophisticated and memorable and enduring Indian restaurants with Floor 22 Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, D1 La Hostaria dining experience. a reputation for good food with a wide www.club1960.vn 45A Le Quy Don, D3 range of North Indian culinary dishes Designed with an intimate atmosphere www.lechateaudesaigon.com at a reasonable price. Large space Basilico Restaurant invoking something like an Italian town, for private parties,outdoor catering this venue focuses on traditional ethnic Le Jardin and free home delivery also available. Trattoria-style Italian eatery Basilico Italian cuisine (rather than the ubiquitous Le Jardin is a gorgeous enclosed garden Special set lunch veg/non-veg from specializes in homespun recipes. pizza and pasta), creations of the skillful space that allows eaters to follow the VND90,000 upwards.Promotion (free Contemporary décor, casual ambience, executive chef – straight out of Venice. and casual yet attentive Bistro-style example of the French colonists a century trip to Cambodia) and discount available The place lights up on romantic Thursday ©2014 C opyright L istings
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 56 evenings with candlelight and light music. Cam On Restaurant Inaho Restaurant 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 japanese 3823 1080 Cam On specializes in Japanese health This unique venue specializes in www.lahostaria.com food, with a dedication to helping men traditional sushi & sashimi as well as hot and women maintain their beauty and pot dishes. Couples can retreat to the Lucca Oi’s Pick health by providing quality cuisine with upstairs area; it’s far more private than the downstairs bar. natural ingredients. 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 A Brooklyn-style Italian eatery upstairs 30 Thai Van Lung, D1 3829 0326 with an adjoining bar. Downstairs is a 3823 3955 relaxing cafe offering generous breakfasts, www.cam-on.asia Kabuto Tokyo simple cafe fare for lunch and some of the best espresso coffee you’ll find in the city. Dragon Hotpot One of the more exuberant Japanese 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Achaya Cafe venues in this city, Kabuto Tokyo on Mac 3915 3692 Dragon Hotpot blends fine taste with the Thi Buoi specialises in both traditional and Achaya 8am - 11pm healthy ingredients of Japanese cuisine. fusion fresh Japanese seafood cuisine. Cafe have two floors providing a nice Drinks include Japanese favorites along It's a vibrant venue with its manga murals, Margherita atmosphere for meeting, relaxation with fine international wines. carp lanterns, giant samurai warrior, and or party. The menu is extensive 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 large aquarium – and in the evening it with drinks and Western, Japanese, becomes a respectable upmarket bar. For 3825 8842 Well-reviewed overseas, Margherita is Vietnamese food from sandwiches, a quirky beverage there, try a sake served a familiar place to tourists trawling the spaghetties, pizzas, steak and special in a bamboo tube. nooks of Ho Chi Minh City. This is partly Japanese sweet desserts. Dragon Noodle 45 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 a result of its agreeable price, sumptuous 90 Le Loi, D1 3822 2351 Western-style pizzas, English-speaking 093 897 2050 A rather small but pretty restaurant with kabuto.com.vn warm tones and a nice series of murals staff, and more than average customer 11am - 10:30pm depicting old Saigon, Dragon Noodle service. K Cafe focuses on the Japanese staple – ramen 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 noodle soups – although their version K Cafe Sushi is a large Japanese 3837 0760 Aka Taiyo restaurant; an ideal place to gather for a is a little less spicy than is traditionally business lunch or for a social dinner. Aka Taiyo serves traditional and exotic served, increasing perhaps the Opera Japanese cuisine with an extensive menu international appeal of the dish. There are 74A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 38245355 featuring more than 200 dishes. Also a total of four soup bases to accompany www.yakatabune-saigon.com Located at Park Hyatt Hotel, Opera is stocks a surprisingly comprehensive the noodles. a contemporary, casual trattoria-style range of Japanese alcoholic beverages. 29 Dong Du, D1 restaurant that specializes in authentic 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 Kissho 3521 0008 Experienced chefs prepare teppanyaki, 3824 4295 pizza made fresh from a wood-fired oven, www.ramen.vn sushi, and yakiniku dishes before your www.akataiyo.com pasta and homemade Italian dishes eyes. In addition, an extensive wine list is prepared from one large open kitchen. Dragon Steak available as well as an array of fine sake Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Ajisen Ramen to complement the exquisite flavors of
3520 2357 premium imported meat and seafood. One of the more authentic Japanese A striking Japanese restaurant tucked 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 venues in the area with ingredients away off Saigon's central street, Dragon www.kissho.wmcvietnam.com Pendolasco imported from Japan, this restaurant is steak specialises in thick wagayu cuts There leafy garden is perfect for all those best-known for its tasty “white” soups. The and tenderloin that could well have people looking for some fresh air away restaurant serves at least 250 traditional been cut off a beast the size of a dragon. Kuru Kuru Shusi A Japanese restaurant that features a dishes. They're so enormous that the restaurant from the hustle and bustle of the city. It rotating conveyor belt for the buffet, 120 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 also has a fully air-conditioned dining once ran a cheeky competition – guests offering 50 different selections. It also 3822 0522 room. Offers large selection of Italian who finished one within half an hour offers an a la carte menu. wines and Italian dishes such as wood fire dined free. 129 Nguyen Du, D1 oven pizzas, pastas, grilled food, among Aki Japanese Restaurant 138 Ton That Dam, D1 www.kurukuru.com.vn 3821 0288 others. A small Japanese restaurant with a cozy www.steak.vn 87 Nguyen Hue, D1 and comfortable atmosphere, Aki serves Kokekokko Pandora
www.pendolasco.vn over 100 authentic Japanese dishes. Kokekokko is a combination of modern 15/9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ebisu style fast food with the essence of ancient Pizza 4P’s Oi’s Pick 3827 9083 Japanese cuisine. The restaurant space is A little treasure hidden away at the top Ebisu serves neither sushi nor sashimi – instead, the menu focuses on a range of designed with high quality materials and of an out-of-the-way alley off Le Thanh Baby Spoon features youthful and modern dynamic wholesome charcoal-grilled meals and Ton, this Japanese pizzeria is a major hit subtleties. With prices under VND100,00 Famous for its extensive omurice on thick, white Japanese udon noodles – Kokekoko is a must see. with those in the know. Highly attractive menu (fried rice wrapped inside an made from imported udon powder from 4th Floor Pandora, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu premises and some extraordinary egg omelette), Baby Spoon offers Australia – and presenting an overall 3849 6840 toppings catering to all tastes make this contemporary Japanese-Western fusion rustic cuisine with a variety of good sakes. www.kokekokko.com.vn an unmissable pizza experience. cuisine. Baby Spoon omurice (green bell 35bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1 peppers, bacon, tomato sauce omurice) 3822 6971 La Fenetre Soleil 012 0789 4444 is the house specialty. [email protected] www.pizza4ps.com 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 ebisu-vn.asia Glass tables with mosaic tiles and wooden floors set off large comfy sofas and high Pomodoro ceilings, and diners can look out over the Fuji Restaurant busy Ly Tu Trong though 11 large French
In this family-style, simply-decorated windows. Its sense of personality attracts The cuisine is exceptional – fresh seafood trattoria restaurant with an arched ceiling artistically-inclined expats to return often, and vegetables flown in direct from Japan and many of these profess it as their and an all-brick interior, a fine Italian and Dalat. A preferred venue for those favourite hangout in Saigon. Cuisine is menu pleases diners with 12 different staying at the hotel, and worth trying if Japanese-Vietnamese fusion. pizzas along with pasta dishes, parma you're living local. 44 Ly Tu Trong, D1 ham with a spicy tomato chutney, and Ground Floor, Nikko Hotel Saigon 3824 5994 a highly-recommended French onion 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 soup. Ideal option for a simple, reliable, 3830 8123 Mus Mus and thoroughly pleasant night out with no Blanchy Street Oi’s Pick complications. Customers choose a total of twelve Hanayuki ingredients from the selection on offer, 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Once hidden upstairs which are then added to a bowl of boiling 3823 8998 at the Blanchy’s Tash A Japanese-style restaurant on Ton broth on the tabletop. Flavours are www.pomodoro-vietnam.com bar, Blanchy Street now Duc Thang with a sushi bar on the essentially Japanese seafood. has its own location in the courtyard ground floor and a fine mezzanine 117 Vo Van Tan, D3 Sarpino’s Pizzeria of eateries on Hai Ba Trung, offering level, Hanayuki serves more than 200 3930 9185 authentic Japanese food mixed with exquisite Japanese dishes with more www.musmus.net Sarpino’s Pizzeria provides authentic fusion cuisine and the occasional than 30 kinds of sushi and sashimi. Italian pizzas made from gourmet Private, traditional Japanese VIP rooms Osaka Ramen additional Southeast Asian dish. Run ingredients. are available on the top level. te x pats by an ex Nobu (London) chef with Traditional Japanese noodle restaurant A 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 his own signature dishes, it has wide 21C Ton Duc Thang, D1 offering traditional Ramen dishes as well www.sarpinos.vn appeal. Food is designed to be shared 3824 2754 as Japanese/Vietnamese fusion cuisine. and is backed by an extensive list of 67 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Scoozi sakes and wines. Ichiban Sushi Oi’s Pick 10am - 10pm An Italian restaurant that offers pizza, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Ichiban Sushi Vietnam serves fine sushi pasta, salad, special desserts and a wide 3823 8793 and signature drinks/cocktails in a lounge Robata Dining An variety of drinks. Provide dine-in , take setting. www.blanchystreet.com The restaurant has a downstairs bar and away and home delivery services. 11am - 10:30pm 204 Le Lai, D1 a second floor with private rooms that
©2014 C opyright L istings 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.ichibansushi.vn have sunken tables, sliding fusuma doors
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 57 and tabletop barbecues. Popular with diverse, with many delectable seafood 92 Ham Nghi, D1 the Japanese expats, the menu serves options. 3914 1565 up healthy appetizers, rolls, sashimi 42 Le Anh Xuan, D1 www.mihanquocvn.com and An specialty dishes like deep fried 3823 3232 8am - 11pm chicken with garlic salt sauce An style vickis.com.vn (VND100,000). Mr. BBQ – Korean Chicken & Hof 15C Le Thanh Ton, D1 Vietnam Monde Good for receptions, team meetings, www.robata-an.com This unusual Korean import famous for relaxation, family dining, banquet and other special occasions. The extraordinarily spicy chicken is an odd Sakura Vietnamese-Japanese recommended dishes include Kobe phenomenon on the HCMC culinary Restaurant landscape, serving up a version of beef imported from Japan, Tepan Steak, KFC that's actually painful. Lovers of Cozy, friendly and modern Japanese Sashimi and Sushi. Average price per Indaba Restaurant spicy food rejoice. The restaurant itself restaurant near all of the attractions in the person is between VND100,000 to Indaba Steakhouse VND300,000. city center. is clean and modern in design, and combines German style indaba 7bis Korea Sailing, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 Steakhouse 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 there are another 50 Korean dishes steak and Italian coffee 0838220187 6291 1036 on offer beyond the signature dish, under one roof. Expect sakurasaku.vn including some tasty bibimbap mixed a fusion dishes like Vui Vui rice dishes. Vui Vui is a Japanese restaurant Indaba Spring Rolls, Mexican BBQ 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Sumo BBQ specializing in barbecue and Japanese- Spare Ribs, and Grilled Duck Breast style hot pot. Offers a variety of set 3823 9000 served with sesame sauce, steamed Sumo BBQ is a rising star amongst lunches including Yakiudon, Kimuchi rice and salad. The quaint and cozy Japanese venues in Saigon, offering Pokka, Sukiyaki and Purukogi. The Seoul House restaurant is decorated in soft hues of smokeless table BBQ and a unique restaurant has two floors with each floor red and black, complemented with soft buffet/a la carte concept: get whatever accommodating approximately 100 Seoul House is a well-known two-story jazz music. A German Viet Kieu with you want from the menu, as much as guests. Korean restaurant with a simple, cozy experience in restaurants in Germany you like. Free birthday beer specials on 125A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 atmosphere. Its menu contains Korean helms the kitchen. arrangement. www.vuivui.net.vn favorites like Banchan, hotpots, grilled 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 300 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh meat, clay pot mixed rice, and kim chi www.facebook.com/indabacafe 3991 4757 Wainosuke tofu soup. Contact them at 3824 8280 or sumobbq.com.vn Wainosuke is a Japanese and Italian 33 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 10.30am - 10.30pm style restaurant. It serves food such as visit www.facebook.com/indabacafe 3829 4297 pastas, salads and steaks to name a few Sushi Bar and wine from traditional Japanese to premium Italian wine. New York Steakhouse
37 Ho Tung Mau, D1 steakhouses There are plenty of dining spaces – large While situated in a fairly laid-back area, and small rooms, floor-level Japanese 3821 4016 New York Steakhouse is definitely in the dining on tatami mats, private areas, and www.wainosuke-vn.asia Au Lac do Brazil upmarket category and serves exclusive the eponymous large sushi bar on the American imported beef dishes, with a ground level. Yoshino Serving Saigon for more than 10 years, whole range of steaks from rib eye, New 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Au Lac do Brazil is the very first authentic York strip steak, and tenderloin being 3823 8042 The decor is straight out of the set of Brazilian Churrascaria in Vietnam, bringing Shogun, with black wood, tatami mats, popular options. www.sushibar-vn.com a new dining concept - an “All you can stencilled cherry blossoms and all eat” Brazilian style BBQ where meat is 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 the trappings of Japanese exoticism brought to your table on skewers by 3823 7373 Sushi Dining Aoi – tastefully done. While Ho Chi Minh www.steakhouse.com.vn City is certainly not short of fine a passador and served to your heart’s Sushi Dining Aoi is one such restaurant, content. They have an extensive selection Japanese eateries, this one is particularly Oi’s Pick where the whole atmosphere of the place impressive. of fine wines as well. Pho 99 evokes the best of the culture. With its Ho Chi Minh City 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Not a traditional steakhouse per se, but typical Japanese-style decor – the smooth 3823 3333 Au Lac do Brazil I Pho 99 is known for its excellent filet earthen tones of the wooden furniture and 238 Pasteur, D3 mignon steaks made out of Cu Chi beef. surrounds, the warmth and privacy of the (08) 3820 7157 Yuki Also serves great pho. VIP rooms – it's possible to believe you're Ha Noi 139 Nguyen Trai, D1 in a more elegant realm. Yukie is a popular Japanese restaurant Au Lac do Brazil II located in the backpacker area of 3925 2791 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh District 1. Offering authentic Japanese 3930 0039 (04) 3845 5224 cuisine at affordable prices. For Banquet & Catering Samba Brazilian Steakhouse www.sushidiningaoi.com 99 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 Call or email 3824 2754 This is certainly Saigon's most visible and Sushi World [email protected] colourful restaurant serving the popular 090 947 8698 Brazilian buffet style, where enormous A four-storey restaurant in a Japanese- korean www.aulacdobrazil.com skewers of meat are circulated around style, the first and second floors feature www.facebook.com/aulacdobrazil the tables for diners to enjoy as much of an open sushi bar, while the upper levels Dae Jang Gum as they can. All the theatrics of a traditional Korean contain 15 VIP rooms decorated in a Corso Steakhouse and Bar 10C Thai Van Lung, D1 experience are part of the service at Dae traditional Japanese style with tatami 3822 0079 matting. Jang Gum, named after an historic figure, Corso Steakhouse and Bar operates but more pertinently after a wildly popular www.samba.vnnhahang.com 28 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 under an open kitchen concept, bringing Korean drama focusing on her life – 3911 0147 together an exciting menu of Asian and photos from the series appear throughout Wild Horse Salon www.sushiworld.com.vn the venue. From waitresses in hanboks European dishes with a focus on grilling. to vast plates of kimchi, this is the most Guests can choose from a wide variety of Cowboy-themed western steakhouse Tokyo Deli authentic introduction to the cuisine wines and spirits. with an impressive exterior on trendy available outside of District 7. 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Thai Van Lung, Wild Horse serves high- Tokyo Deli’s menu consists of a wide 1st Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza 3829 5368 quality Tex Mex/American cuisine with range of distinctive and delicious meals, 39 Le Duan, D1 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn enormous servings. prepared by specialists to create pure 3825 7974 8A/1D1 Thai Van Lung, D1 Japanese flavor. The menu is always www.daejanggum.vn Dragon Steak 3825 1901 being changed and improved. 240 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Hana Restaurant Specializing in generous portions of
5404 2244 Wagyu cuts; they’re so enormous Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of thai tokyodeli.com.vn that the restaurant runs a cheeky D1. Hana has contemporary decor with a private, open feel. Its broad menu competition - finish one within half an Golden Elephant Uraetei BBQ Restaurant includes both cooked and raw fish in hour, and it’s free. addition to traditional hot pot with fish 138 Ton That Dam, D1 A cozy and relaxing Thai style Uraetai serves yakiniku grill, a variant eggs, rice and vegetables. 3821 0288 restaurant, serving an extensive of the popular Korean dish bulgogi. 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.steak.vn collection of Thai specialties including The restaurant itself is attractively 3829 5588 11am - late noodles, curries, rice, stir-fries, soups, done, with a nod to feng shui in its 9am - 10pm and a good range of seafood. te x pats selective placement of ponds and rocky El Gaucho 34 Hai Ba Trung, D1 A pathways outside. Mi Han Quoc Serves great Argentinean steaks, 3822 8554 6673 9373 hamburgers and more. A great place This franchise has gained popularity to entertain clients or friends from Jasmine Thai Vicki’s Teppanyaki & BBQ in Ho Chi Minh City for having overseas. With outlets in Hanoi and successfully adapted the spiciness Bangkok too. A quiet, candle-lit affair complete with It provides a fusion of Asian cuisines of Korean cuisine to the local 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 the ethereal tones of traditional music, with dishes from Japan, Singapore, and Vietnamese palate, serving perfectly 38251879 guests can enjoy variations on dishes prepared in the Thai culinary tradition. Vietnam. Their menu is interesting and balanced noodle dishes. www.elgaucho.asia ©2014 C opyright L istings
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 58 RESTAURANT REVIEW Tiny Treasures Bite size deliciousness from Hue and the southern coastal town of Phan Rang text by James Allen IMAGES BY Adam Robert Young
Tucked away in Tan Binh District, Beo Vietnamese dish, hinting towards shape to a banh beo, a circular little piece Gap Nuoc on 118 Truong Cong Dinh is something decidedly more Thai or Indian of fried battery goodness topped with all a compact little restaurant specializing in origin. The scooping of the clams was manner of ingredients, a banh can is closer in Hue and Phan Rang cuisine. The name so enthusiastic, we ordered seconds. to that of an egg white omelet with the translates to “algae meets water,” an idiom We then focused our attention on the key ingredients of pork, shrimp and meat meaning two things are destined to be banh thap cam, a mixed selection of pretty concealed from view within their warm together. Dishes from the two regions little morsels of rice flour or cassava based centers. Eating it was somewhat of an are served in small portions, designed to dumplings filled with powdered shrimp, experience, and thanks to a helpful waitress, entice the palette and keep you interested green beans or assorted minced meats and we soon discovered that we needed until the very last bite. Every element has seafood. Smother them with nuoc mam to mix one spoon of each of the three a function, all helping to build a crescendo and dig in; if you’re lucky you’ll love accompanying sauces into a separate bowl of flavors and this delicious tradition was everything, otherwise be fearless and after for the eventual big dip. The sauces were kept alive during our evening in Tan Binh. a bit of trial and error you will certainly mam nem (a zingy pineapple-infused fish Not wanting to waste any time, know what to order next time. sauce), mam dau phong (a tasty fermented we unwrapped a few littlecha lua Next up, banh xeo (VND50,000 for four), peanut concoction), and a citrus-based chili (Vietnamese pork roll, VND5,000 for but not the extra large variety you are sauce for sweetness and punch. A heady one) packages to nibble on, a relatively probably more used to. These miniature trio, and when combined with firm thin simple snack and a good way to tide us versions were crunchy and filled with strips of sour mango, freshly picked greens over while we waited for the main event. shrimp, pork and squid as well as the usual and herbs as well as the compact littlebanh No sooner had we finished when the mound of bean sprouts. While we preferred can, the result is beyond words. first plate ofbanh thap cam (VND45,000) the bigger version, which encourages a more At Beo Gap Nuoc everything is arrived along with a large rice cracker communal deconstructive eating technique, delivered to the table at its freshest, from covering a warmly spiced plate of baby the ones here had a thicker batter that the mound of lettuce and herbs to the oil clams (hen xuc banh da, VND45,000). allows for a crispier taco-like shell, giving used to fry the banh xeo, each ingredient The latter was demolished as soon as it you more time to roll, dip and eat before the is handled and cooked with respect and touched the table. Which is not surprising whole thing falls apart. generosity, a fact that is more than evident as each tiny clam is covered in a subtle, The final dish,banh can thap cam with every bite. Get there hungry, it’s spiced flavor quite unlike your average (VND60,000), was new to us. Similar in worth the drive.
59 85 Quoc Huong, D2 of Vietnam in an area where international a rich, diverse menu, and also offer fresh 3825 1676 35190038 diners are likely to be in abundance – and fruit juices. www.hoatuc.com 5pm - 9.30pm Tue-Sun therefore well attuned to the foreign 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan palate. 3990 5106 Hoang Yen Koh Thai 92B Le Lai, D1 A venue for those who are looking for 3925 9583 Bo Nong high-quality Vietnamese cuisine. Try Stunning Thai-chic decor and unique This performance venue features some of the country’s delicacies in a Siam cuisine make Koh Thai one An Vietnamese Bistro a traditional cultural show with modern yet inviting atmosphere. The of Saigon’s most authentic and Vietnamese cuisine. Established by eatery’s various clay pots are flavorful; some feature mam, a delicious fermented memorable Thai restaurants. Located An Restaurant offers exquisite dishes Frenchmen Thibault Detraz and Jeremy fish paste. While the restaurant’s cuisine in the Intercontinental complex, Koh from the North, Central, and South of Gremillet, who aim to bring the French is light and healthy overall, those Thai serves Asian inspired cocktails Vietnam, served by well-trained waiters passion for fusing live entertainment with a penchant for green veggies in a trendy lounge environment with and waitresses dressed in traditional with dining. Southern clothing. 143 Nguyen Trai, D1 should definitely order one of Hoang chill music. Yen’s assortment of edible ‘flowers’ – 1st floor, 39 Le Duan, D1 71/5-6 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 www.bo-nong.com 3825 8275 especially the sautéed hoa thien ly. It is 3823 4423 recommended to order a few dishes and 091 233 9138 Bun Sai Gon share them all.
www.kohthai.com.vn Banh Xeo 46A 7-9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 This franchise positions itself firmly in 11am - 10pm Daily 148 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Although known for a wide range of the local market with the slogan 'the bun Parkson Hung Vuong, Third Floor, Hung Vietnamese specialties, the local pancake noodles of the Vietnamese people' – Vuong Plaza, An Duong Vuong, D5 Lac Thai stuffed with herbs and prawns is its indicating a concerted dedication to the CR1- 12, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 tastiest dish. authenticity of its noodle soup staples. Lac Thai is a large, three-floor restaurant www.hoangyencuisine.com 46A Dinh Cong Trang, D1 73 Ly Tu Trong, D1 offering a wide range of Thai cuisine 3824 1110 6276 2609 with signature dishes like Pad Thai, Tom www.bunsaigon.com.vn Hum Yum Koong, Chicken Satay and many Hum is a vegetarian restaurant where others. Banh Xeo An La Ghien food are prepared on site from various
Cha Ca La Vong fresh beans, nuts, vegetables, flowers, 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 The fare on offer is traditional Vietnamese, This venue only serves Cha Ca, a and fruits. Food are complemented with 3823 7506 specialising in the Banh Xeo filled egg traditional Hanoian dish. Cha Ca is a salad special drinks mixed from fresh fruits and pancake, a favourite with foreigners with made out of pieces of fish and spring vegetables. Mai Thai its light crispy shell and fragrant herbs and onion stir-fried in a hotpot. 2 Thi Sach, D1 meats inside the pancake pocket. 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 3823 8920 Mai Thai is a Thai restaurant offering an 74 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 3915 3343 www.hum-vegetarian.vn extensive menu with many Thai favorites. 3833 0534 This two-storey restaurant features www.banhxeoanlaghien.com.vn/en Cuc Gach Quan traditional decorations and friendly Khoai Restaurant This Vietnamese venue serves traditional, Specializes in dishes from Nha Trang. service. Barbecue Garden country-style foods, a mixture of street 3A Le Quy Don, D3 13 Ton That Thiep, D1 food dishes made with fine ingredients www.khoairestaurant.com 3821 2920 The venue features all open-air dining together with a selection of more 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm and the atmosphere is distinctly festival- contemporary options. Lang Viet Oi’s Pick like, relaxing, and casual, becoming 10 Dang Tat, D1 Lang Viet combines water puppet Malee Thai congenially boisterous in the evenings. 3848 0144 theater with Vietnamese northern The restaurant specializes in Western- cuisine. There are two performances A cute, central Thai venue decked Vietnamese fusion dishes such as beef Five Oysters in the evening (5pm and 6:16pm) and out in royal purple decor, Malee is an with cheese, 5-spices beef, squid with Serves local cuisine with an emphasis last for 45 minutes, with an option intimate restaurant serving a wide range satay sauce, and shrimp kebabs. on seafood and beers starting at of a la carte dining, set menu or of consistently tasty dishes, although 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 VND10,000. Open daily from 9am until buffet afterwards. During the day, the without the full effect of Thai cuisine’s 3823 3340 late. restaurant serves breakfast and lunch, signature burn. www.barbecuegarden.com 090 30 12123 starting at 10am to 2pm. Their sister 37 Dong Du, D1 www.facebook.com/FiveOysters restaurant, Pho Xua, was once visited by 3829 3029 Beefsteak Nam Son Former President Bill Clinton in 2000. 11am - 2pm; 5pm - 11pm This local steak restaurant specialises in Ganh 36 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Vietnamese-style iron-plate meat dishes 3829 9266 Spice rather than the American steaks often With green suspended lanterns, simple www.langvietxua.com popular with expats – but while these and elegant furnishings, all touched off Spice Thai restaurant has been a favorite two varieties have their differences, the with bamboo baskets of fruit, flowers, Lemongrass among the locals in Saigon since 2003. local version of the dish has a fresh, light and reed grass, the atmosphere is just This multicultural eatery offers Thai food character and is served with some good, as smooth and well-defined as a more The vibe aims at a harmony between & seafood in a décor fusing Oriental & delicate Vietnamese sauces. modern-styled venue. modern styling and the Vietnamese traditional arts, and the dining room with Mediterranean artifacts. 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 58/4 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 its tile floors and wooded wainscoting 27C Le Quy Don, D3 3930 3917 3829 5243 effects a comforting natural environment. 3930 7873 www.namsonsteak.com www.nemnuongganh.com 4 Nguyen Thiep, D1 www.spicevn.com Binh An Village Gold Fish Open every day for dining and other Luong Son Thai Express banqueting services, Binh An Village Gold Fish offers a slice of authentic
serves traditional country cuisine such Vietnam with a genuinely rural cuisine. Exotic beer garden style eatery famous for Thai Express is the world’s largest Thai as in house fried spring rolls, fresh lotus 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 its barbecue beef. Luong Son also serves restaurant chain. Enjoy fantastically shrimp salad, selective grilled seafood www.goldfish.vn fear factor items such as scorpions, grubs, authentic Thai cuisine at reasonable and meats served with sticky pineapple ostrich meat and crickets. prices in a relaxed, contemporary rice. A jazz band is available for booking Grillbar - Eatery & Cafe 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 atmosphere. for private functions. It also offers special A new trendy kitchen and cozy restaurant 3825 1330 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 arrangements such as a Saigon boat with the concept of taking traditional www.facebook.com/LuongSonQuan 6299 1338 cruise, DJ, traditional Vietnamese folklore Vietnamese charcoal grilled street food www.thaiexpress.com.vn music and more. and serving it in a New York stylie cafe. Nam Phan 1163 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh 122 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Nam Phan is a 200 seat restaurant that 3556 6099 38227 901 is accents Vietnamese cuisine with live vietnamese [email protected] www.grillbar.com.vn classical music. 34 Vo Van Tan, D3 3T Quan Nuong Bonbon Highway 4 Offers authentic Vietnamese cuisines as Nam Phat Restaurant With hanging oil lamps and wooden well as a modern global menu. It boasts The menu reflects the ambiance of the statues lining the stairs, this venue hand-selected steaks and a world-class north and wider Vietnam, although dishes A Vietnamese restaurant that specializes above the Temple Bar has a touch more wine list. The restaurant is designed are carefully selected to meet a more in hosting social events such as weddings atmosphere than most of its kind, but to be multi-functional, with the ability universal palate. and business conferences. Traditional the otherwise simple décor with bamboo to continually change the layout and 101 Vo Van Tan, D3 Vietnamese cuisine is the specialty tables and chairs are fitting enough. atmosphere for high-end group events, 3602 2069 with prices ranging from VND100,000 te x pats The broad barbecue grill menu features intimate romance or casual dinners. www.highway4.com - VND300,000. The setting is of an A classics of its kind. Kumho Building, 39 Le Duan, D1 elegant banquet hall. Top Floor, 29 Ton That Hiep, D1 [email protected] Hoa Tuc 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 3821 1631 6291 7788 3910 6488 Set in what used to be Saigon’s opium [email protected] An Khue Quan Bo Ne Le Hong refinery, Hoa Tuc serves up contemporary Vietnamese cuisine in a Parisian, art-deco Marina Saigon Serving a well-selected series of dishes Bo Ne Le Hong is a popular Vietnamese atmosphere. restaurant specializing in beefsteak. It has 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Marina Saigon is one of the leading from both northern and southern regions ©2014 C opyright L istings
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 60 seafood restaurants in Ho Chi Minh Quan Bui Authentic Vietnamese Thanh Nien Restaurant City. This restaurant provides a Cuisine western/international luxurious environment with French/ Leafy green roof garden, upmarket With its attractive home-style layout, pretty Vietnamese fusion cuisine. restaurant with reasonable prices and a garden for outdoor dining, and warm, 27 Grill 27 Grill is an open kitchen run by Danish 172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 wide menu of choices. Open style kitchen yellow-toned interior for the buffet, it's a chefs Casper Gustafsen and Camilla 3930 2379 charming venue for tourists and a familiar advertises its cleanliness. Designer interior Bailey and is known for its steaks. It with spot lighted pictures and beautiful favourite for long-timers. It's intentionally also offers a spectacular view of the city. Maxim’s Nam An cushions give an oriental luxurious decorated like a private home, walls Opens from 5:30pm - 11pm. feeling – augmented by dishes served on decorated with floral artworks, and the Large and lavishly decorated, Maxim’s Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1 earthenware crockery. garden surrounded by bamboo. Nam An restaurant serves Vietnamese www.chillsaigon.com cuisine in style. The carved wooden 17a Ngo Van Nam, D1 11 Nguyen Van Chiem, D1 booths, completed with silk curtains, 3829 1515 3822 5909 Al Fresco’s are a romantic hideaway for couples or (deliveries: 3602 2241 or 091 400 8835) www.vnnavi.com/restaurants/thanhnien small groups. Offering a mix of Tex-Mex, Italian, and 13-15-17 Dong Khoi, D1 Quan An Ngon Thang Bom Quan Australian food along with cold local & Quan An Ngon appeals easily to tourists Serves hot pot and special style BBQ. imported beers and a wine list featuring Mitau and local people alike in its unique 49 Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Australia’s finest whites along with Mitau creates a gathering place for concept: presenting the diversity of affordable South American reds. those who love Hue cuisine. The interior Vietnamese cuisine from different regions Tib Restaurant 16 Nguyen Thi Nghia, D1 3926 0036 includes memorabilia, statues, bric and in a village market style. The restaurant is This fine Vietnamese Hue-style restaurant www.alfrescosgroup.com brac and golf trophies. set in a large new building, which from its looks almost like a temple, and it's 8.30am - 11pm 52 Hai Ba Trung, D1 external yellow appearance is reminiscent considered one of the city's premier 3823 0767 of an old European villa; but inside its settings serving imperial cuisine. www.mitauhue.com space is designed as an ancient Hue 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Au Parc
ruong house. 3829 7242 It's only fitting that this Mediterranean- Nghi Xuan 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.tibrestaurant.com.vn styled restored villa with its original tiles, 3827 9666 old window frames, plush cushions, and Decorated as a high-class traditional www.quanngon138.com Tin Nghia opium-themed art collection sits in one Vietnamese mansion, Nghi Xuan is A charming little venue serving vegetarian of the most gorgeous streets of central perfectly fitting for a venue serving the Royal Revolving Restaurant cuisine. Its quaint appearance hides Saigon. Au Parc is an unforgettable finest of Vietnam's classical cuisine – the fact that it was the first international venue with a décor that manages to the imperial dishes of Hue. Service is The Royal Revolving Restaurant is a vegetarian restaurant in Ho Chi Minh simultaneously capture the grace of the courteous, fast, and quintessentially unique restaurant experience. Experience City and an important center of the city’s old Colonial architecture and the mood elegant. stunning views of the city while you spin vegetarian culture. of west-Asian exoticism that transfixed 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 around in the sky. The restaurant offers 9 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Europe in the Romantic period. 3823 0699 more than 50 Hong Kong inspired dishes 3821 2538 23 Han Thuyen, D1 nghixuanrestaurant.com and a bar that serves coffee and cocktails. 3829 2772 9th Floor, 12D Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Vietnam House Nha Hang Ngon 3823 2232 Bahdja Vietnam House is a high quality Famous restaurant serving easy restaurant specializing in both local Algerian restaurant serving north African Vietnamese cuisine to foreigners Saigon Vegan delights such as couscous, tajines and Vietnamese and international cuisine. and tourists with more than 400 desserts. Unique Mechoui set dinner is Saigon Vegan is located in a casual and This restaurant is set in a restored French traditional dishes. a popular choice and perfect for groups inviting space with high ceilings, dark colonial house offering stunning views of 160 Pasteur, D1 (available with prior notice). wood tables, and lots of natural light. the street. 3827 7131 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, D1 93-95 Dong Khoi, D1 www.quananngon.com.vn Guests can choose from over 100 vegan 093 787 2010 (French, Arabic, English, 3829 1623 8am - 10pm dishes, all of which are either soy or Finnish) vegetable based. www.vietnamhousesaigon.com Papaya Restaurant Oi’s Pick 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Ben Style Oi’s Pick 3834 4473 Every sandwich comes wrapped with a A petite, clean, and brightly-coloured (other) asian label that displays its calories, protein, fat Vietnamese restaurant with simple décor SH Garden restaurant and carbohydrates content. A 544-calorie serving a light, healthy, northern-style Crawfish King Cheesy tofu meatballs sandwich costs cuisine. There's no fuss in the layout Established in the 1930s, the Terrace Crawfish King serves special menus VND80,000 while a 281-calorie Chicken here – green walls with black & white restaurant is located at the corner of with crawfish, lobster, mantis shrimp, salad sets you back VND50,000.The artworks, brown wooden furnishings, and two of the oldest boulevards of Saigon, American-style chicken wings, oysters, chicken jumbo sandwich comes with lanterns above every table make for a very Nguyen Hue and Le Loi, where romantic fruit beer, sea urchin and more. Offers free a massive 638 calories, 59 grams of pleasant atmosphere – and it's casual memories of Saigon float around. This delivery for customers in D1 and D3. protein and 62 grams of carbohydrates, without being messy, and refined without restaurant offers a variety of delicious 63 Truong Dinh, D1 but only 16 grams of fat. Ben also offers any trace of pretentiousness. traditional Vietnamese dishes. 6272 7888 meal plans for those who want to get fit and bulk up. 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh 4th floor, 98 Nguyen Hue, D1 www.facebook.com/crawfishking63 302 Co Bac, D1 6258 1508 6680 0188 7am - 12am 090 691 2730 [email protected] shgarden.com.vn www.chi-nghia.com Lion City Beirut Song Ngu Offers Lebanese and Mediterranean Pho 2000 This is a Singaporean franchise to food with belly dancers every night from Pho 2000’s Ben Thanh Market branch There are eight different rooms capable of watch with interest – since its humble 8:30pm to 10pm and Latino dancers was famously visited by former US seating a total of 350-400 guests, each beginnings in 2006 with the rather from 10pm to midnight. President Bill Clinton in 2000. The chain warmly-lit with dark wooden furnishings. more unpleasant name Singapore 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, D1 serves up variations on pho as well as On a small stage, a traditional chamber Frog Porridge, it has risen in strength www.beirut.com.vn noodle and rice dishes. orchestra with ladies wearing classical Ao to become the most prominent 4 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 dai costumes perform Vietnamese music representative of the cuisine in the city, Black Cat Restaurant 3822 2788 on genuine old instruments. and its growth has continued to be 6am - 10pm 70 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 remarkable. Originally envisioned as a fast food 3832 5017 45 Le Anh Xuan, D1 Vietnamese sandwich place, Black Cat Pho 24 3823 8371 Saigon now serves international food with
www.lioncityrestaurant.com a focus on burgers, most famously its “Big PHO24 is a popular Vietnamese Temple Club Cheese” featuring 500g of beef. noodle restaurant chain with Usually regarded as one of central Long Monaco Oi’s Pick 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 70 outlets across Vietnam and 3829 2955 throughout Southeast Asia. Saigon's most authentically Vietnamese Long Monaco operates throughout the www.blackcatsaigon.com 71-73 Dong Khoi, D1 venues, this historic and good-looking city under various brand names – this 3825 7505 features classic Indochinese decor, broadly interpreted as a blend of the outlet is a standalone restaurant in the Burger Oi
te x pats Burger Oi offers fast delivery at affordable
A busy Etown office complex in Tan Binh Propaganda Bistro old French colonial style with pan- prices. Try their burgers, filet of fish, BBQ Offers Vietnamese cuisine such as Asian graces that appeal more to Asian district. You'll probably only visit if you're pulled pork, fresh cut curly fries and spring rolls and Vietnamese street food exoticism than reflect actual Vietnamese working nearby or visiting on official desserts. See their full menu online at with a Western twist. Serves breakfast, styles. With antique furnishings and business, but you'll find the restaurant www.burgeroi.com lunch and dinner. The restaurant ceiling fans, the atmosphere is certainly serves some great Asian business Call 083 826 5426 or features hand-painted wall murals. pretty. lunches. SMS your order to 093 836 3030 21 Han Thuyen, D1 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Ground Floor, Etown 1 3822 9048 3829 9244 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Chuck’s www.longmonaco.com.vn ©2014 C opyright L istings www.facebook.com/Propaganda-Saigon templeclub.com.vn Chuck’s offers American comfort food
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 61 like pancakes, omelets, burritos, fries, 3829 5180 restaurant with a menu that draws Xu Restaurant Lounge tacos, burgers and hotdogs. www.lahabana-saigon.com inspiration from every corner of the globe. 27 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 It holds events showcasing Michelin-star The venue is well-known for its pork Ly Club Chefs, wine pairing dinners and other wantons, bun cha, seared beef crostinis,
Crab Pot culinary luminaries. bo luc lac diced beef and 'Xu-style' Crab Pot is a beer and seafood Often used as a venue for gatherings, Level 3, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son chicken rice. Xu is an elegant venue that restaurant serving breakfasts, lunches networking meetings, and events where an Squre, D1 air of wealth and sophistication is useful, Ly works as a restaurant or a high-class bar and dinners of American, French, 0838234999 Seafood and Vietnamese cuisines, with Club is a sure bet for making an impression for the upper echelons. delivery and catering services also. on a date or business lunch. Built into a 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Oi’s Pick 65 Pham Ngoc Thach 6, D3 traditional French villa with wide elliptical Saffron www.xusaigon.com arches, the atmosphere of naked opulence The first thing that will strike you when Gartenstadt persists throughout the property. you enter Saffron is the terracotta pots. White Forest Gartenstadt serves German cuisine 143 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Located 50 meters from Ciao Bella, a Set in a modern décor, the restaurant including sausage, sauerbraten, and 3930 5588 popular Italian restaurant on Dung Du, serves authentic Italian and French pork knuckle. Known amongst locals www.lyclub.vn this restaurant offers Mediterranean cuisine accompanied by a good selection and expats for its long teakwood food, some with a distinct Asian of European wines and cocktails. Happy bar, Gartenstadt is home to imported Margherita influence added for further Hour cocktails from 2pm – 7:30pm where Schneider Weisse and Krombacher beer, uniqueness. Guests are welcomed with it’s buy one get one free. Order take-away as well as a large collection of choice For some, Margherita doubles as an complimentary Prosecco, fresh baked online at vietnammm.com, foodpanda.vn, schnapps. Private dining options are unofficial expat rendezvous, partly a result bread served with garlic, olive tapenade and eat.vn available on the second floor, including of its agreeable prices and sumptuous and hummus. 14 Bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 balcony seating overlooking scenic Western-style pizzas and foods. 51 Hai Ba TruNg, D1 0122 428 5237 Dong Khoi Street. 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 382 48358 www.whiteforest.com.vn 34 Dong Khoi, D1 3837 0760 3822 3623 Shri Zest Bistro & Cafe Market 39 Shri offers unparalleled panoramic views A casual restaurant featuring an Hog’s Breath Café Market 39 showcases seven interactive of the city. Menu offers a broad range of live show kitchens, featuring a la carte American, French and fusion menu. dishes to suit most tastes with modern all-day dining and an extensive buffet Located across from the waterfront, just An Australian family diner and bar concept. European styled starters, mains and Renowned for quality steaks, seafood and selection served daily during breakfast, minutes away from the Bach Dang pier, desserts as well as a wide selection of other western fare served in an informal lunch and dinner Zest offers diners one of the nicest views grills and salads. Wine list is consists environment. Smoke-free indoors. Ground floor, InterContinental Asiana in the city. currently of over 270 bins with selections Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, Saigon 5 Ton Duc Thang, D1 2 Hai Trieu, D1 Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan from both the Old and New World, with 3911 5599 www.hogsbreathcafe.com.vn 3520 9099 France, Italy, Spain, Germany and Austria www.intercontinental.com/saigon as well as Australia, New Zealand, South Zoom Cafe Oi’s Pick Jaspas Wine & Grill Oi’s Pick Africa, USA, Argentina and Chile all Mogambo Bar & Grill represented. Zoom cafe serves Tex-Mex and Jaspas Wine and Grill provides an extensive Level 23, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a wine list along with many “reinvented” Mogambo is a dark, African-styled Minh Khai, D3 Vespa tour service from within the café. Jaspas dishes, new creations, and restaurant with some the finest US & Tex- www.shri.vn 169A Bui Vien, D1 mouthwatering steaks. Japas also offers a Mex and exceptional burgers. 3920 3897 wide array of delectable dessert options. 50 Pasteur, D1 Skewers 7am - 2am daily 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 3825 1311 3827 0931 An open-air kitchen at the front of the alfrescosgroup.com Pacharan - Tapas & Bodega restaurant and a small cigar lounge
upstairs set off the atmosphere and mark The city’s best-known Spanish restaurant this venue as one with a unique presence with a sports bar on the ground floor, The List two floors of dining space, and an open in Saigon. The purely Mediterranean rooftop deck for cocktails and live music. cuisine is appropriately authentic. Serving tapas, paella, and an extensive 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Iberian wine list. 38224798 www.skewers-restaurant.com District 2 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 090 724 2757 Bakeries [email protected] Subway 10am - late Sweet and Sour Subway is now in Vietnam, offering Offers custom made cakes, pies, tarts, Parkview its internationally-renowned range of brownies and cupcakes. It welcomes Located within New World Saigon Hotel, subs sandwiches and cookies. World visitors to an open kitchen where they Parkview is a sophisticated restaurant travelers can expect the same high with a view of the adjacent 23 September can watch and be a part of what makes quality of ingredients regardless of Park. Their buffets feature both Asian and its sweets special. Provides catering for what nation they are visiting. international favorites along with local and special occasions. Khoi Thom imported fish, oysters, prawns, shrimps 121 Ho Tung Mau, D1 AVA Residences, 40/4 Nguyen Van, D2 and snails. Every Sunday, the brunch 3914 4118 3519 3167 Khoi Thom - "fragrant smoke" in buffet offers a fine fare including rotisserie English - is a unique venue, set in and steak specialties, with an ice bar The Elbow Room Voelker a bright, colourful al fresco decor serving up sushi and sashimi. French bakery selling fresh breads, inspired by renowned architect New World Saigon Hotel The Elbow Room on Pasteur is an pastries and chocolate Ricardo Legoretta. A long way from 76 Le Lai Street, D1 American-style bistro with a long bar, Mexico, Chef Alejandro Torres's 39 Thao Dien, D2 menu blends "Cocina 3822 8888 exposed brickwork, white walls, and 6296 0066 Potosina" and timeless [email protected] whirring ceiling fans – making for a voelker-vietnam.com Mexican classics. www.saigon.newworldhotels.com casual, contemporary space with an 29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 international vibe. More of a diner than a BARS www.khoithom.com Pasha restaurant, Elbow shoots at a cool, relaxed atmosphere, pleasantly decorating its Serving Turkish and Mediterranean Mcsorley’s warmly-lit walls with evocative black & La Fenetre Soleil cuisine, the kitchen is headed by Chef Recently opened Irish pub with a La Fenetre Soleil, literally means Ismet with over 30 years of experience in white photos and subtle lighting. swimming pool and outdoor patio. ‘window to the sun’, showcases a fusion similar restaurants. 52 Pasteur, D1 Serves pub grub with events and theme of Old World fittings such as exposed 25 Dong Du, D1 www.elbowroom.com.vn nights happening regularly. bricks, antique furniture and chandeliers 6291 3677 4 Thao Dien, D2 with New World elements such as fur www.pasha.com.vn The Hungry Pig 3519 4659 cushions and mosaic tiled and glass A sandwich bar that takes bacon very www.mcsorleys.vn tables. Serves a range of cocktails, Quán Ut Ut seriously, The Hungry Pig is a place imported beer, coffee and smoothies Quán Ut Ut is Saigon’s newest restaurant where you can find bacon, wrapped in Papagayo Saigon together with a Japanese-Vietnamese hotspot. Specialties include American fresh-baked bagels and baguettes. A resort-style design and French fusion menu. BBQ, cashew-smoked pork ribs and 144 Cong Quynh, D1 Mediterranean food are the make-up of 4 Ly Tu Trong, D1 burgers alongside fresh draft and te x pats this newly opened hangout. A imported beer. Open daily from 4pm til midnight. Warda 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 La Habana 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1 Warda is a Middle-Eastern style bar and Offering authentic Spanish cuisine and www.quanutut.com Buddha Bar a wide choice of tapas, as well as Cuban 3914 4500 restaurant headed by a renowned Syrian One of the long standing bars in the cocktails, La Habana is a den of Cuban- chef. Guests can enjoy authentic middle- area, it has a pool table, darts, big screen Spanish inspired architecture located on eastern cuisine indoors and outdoors tvs along with cheap beers and bar food. inner-city Cao Ba Quat. Reflections while enjoying an almond cigar or shisha. 7 Thao Dien, D2 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Reflections Restaurant is a fine dining 3744 2080 ©2014 C opyright L istings
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 62 cafeS 62532888 Blue Crab Oi’s Pick BARS www.pendolasco.vn Blue Crab offers delicious seafood Agnes Cafe - Dalat Coffee & Flower - prawns, scallops and lobster, crab, Peaches Shop Sarpino’s Pizzeria oysters, scallops and many more for A spacious, attractive restobar with At Agnes Cafe they offer fresh coffee, rock-bottom prices. All of the seafood comfortable, lounge-style seating and a Sarpino’s Pizzeria is a famous pizza smoothies and juices along with a is sourced from the same supplier bar area, this watering hole mixes three brand from Canada with three delicious breakfast and lunch menu. as a number of high-end hotels and beers on tap and a large screen for live This quaint and cozy cafe is a perfect branches around Ho Chi Minh City that restaurants in the city, ensuring the food sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. place to meet up with friends or just specializes in pizza, pasta and rice. is fresh and high quality. For meat-lovers S57-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 relax to get away from the bustling 43 Thao Dien, D2. 3744 2132 there’s also a wide range of dishes that traffic outside. They offer free delivery. include pork ribs and chicken wings. Ruby Soho 11A-B Thao Dien, D2 JAPANESE A popular district 7 spot with excellent They offer weekly specials as well. and cheap range of cocktails, good 49 Quoc Huong, D2 Shalom Coffee Tama River-Japanese Restaurant food and great music! Listen to the likes Shalom Coffee is available for all your Bottles of sake fill shelves along the 3744 2008 of Jimi Hendrix, The Ramones or Beck coffee and chocolate needs, warm wall behind the sushi bar, and unique www.bluecrabsaigon.com while downing an ice cold one. snacks, cold refreshments, breakfasts and Japanese paintings add a nice visual S52-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 lunches. touch. Since opening four months ago, Mekong Merchant 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 the restaurant has attracted a diverse Set in a colonial house within an Sala Beer www.coffeeshalom.com clientele, from locals to expats. open-air courtyard surrounding, this Enjoy Asian and European dishes at 14E1 Thao Dien, D2 restaurant serves delicious pizza, Sala Beer and choose and enjoy more RESTAURANTS 3744 6782 sandwiches, smoothies with an than 50 famous beer brands from extensive wine list. around the world. FRENCH Chiisana Hashi 23 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 4713 Ground floor White House Hotel Serves authentic Japanese cuisine R2-25 Bui Bang Doan, Hung Phuoc 1, D7 Le Bacoulos including sashimi, sushi, tempura, Snap Cafe Le Bacoulos is a French restaurant, bar sukiyaki and shabu shabu The Tavern and lounge that serves French cuisine, bar River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 By day, Snap Cafe is a community- The Tavern is a Western pub & 6683 5308 food like burgers, fish and chips alongside centered, family-friendly cafe and restaurant where patrons can play vegetarian options like spinach soup darts & pool, watch football or enjoy THAI restaurant. By night, guests can enjoy and Greek salad. There’s also a garden to live music, sports on the big screen, reasonably priced food and drinks. unwind in with a glass of wine or enjoy a quiz nights, pool, foosball, and more. R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 game of pool. Baan Thai Serves international cafe fare, great 13 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 food, icy-cold draught beer and wine by CAFES 3519 4058 Baan Thai serves authentic Thai cuisine the carafe. The space is a large open- www.bacoulos.com using a considerable variety of tastes and spices prepared by Thai chefs.Generally plan room with an attached garden and Baskin Robbins With more than 7000 branches in more speaking, the cuisine leans more towards play area for kids. Holds regular movie Gastro’home than 50 countries, Baskin Robbins is being authentic in taste than serving the screenings. New delicatessen shop offering the largest ice-cream chain in the world more internationalised versions of Thai 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 western-fusion French food by French with flavors such as Baseball Nut and cuisine available elsewhere. 35194532 chef Stephane Courtin. Visit the shop Lunar Cheesecake. or try their catering service. 55 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 5453 www.snap.com.vn 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 100 Xuan Thuy, D2. 6281 9830 www.baanthai-anphu.com The Deck www.baskinrobbins.vn La Villa Oi’s Pick Jasmine Thai Located on the banks of the Saigon Bud’s Bringing the taste of American ice This Colonial-style villa set in a quietly Expect here variations on dishes you'll River, this restaurant offers great cream to Vietnam, Bud’s Ice Cream has gentrified district 2 street is a cache of find throughout the Thai culinary tradition international and Vietnamese fare. nine stores in Ho Chi Minh City. Apart luxury with its beautiful poolside garden with features more common to those 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 from a variety of delicious ice cream and cosy, scenic white-toned dining room restaurants serving in Western nations. www.thedecksaigon.com flavors, Bud’s also offers a wide range area. Dine outside or in, on an off-the-cuff 85 Quoc Huong, D2 of Western and Vietnamese food. menu prepared by the French chef, based 3519 0038 Vino SD - 04 Panorama Residential Complex, D7 on the best market ingredients available They offer professional advice on www.budsicecream.com.vn on the day. VIETNAMESE selecting and tasting wines. The
14 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot 3898 2082 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Banian Tree to sample a new vintage and brunches The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf serves www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant. on the weekends. some of the best coffee and tea from *Reviewed in Oi March 2013 Offers a set lunch, set dinner and international breakfast NO.1, Street 2nd, D2 around the world. It also has a full line Trois Gourmands River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 www.vinovietnam.com of baked goods made from high quality Opened in 2004 and regarded as one ingredients, most of which are from of the finest French restaurants in town. Frangipani Hoa Su their own proprietary recipes. Owner Gils, a French native, makes his Frangipani Hoa Su offers authentic Ground Floor, Crescent Mall, Ton Dat Tien, D7 own cheeses as well. Vietnamese cuisine with a variety of The List www.coffeebean.com.vn 18 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 dishes from different parts of Vietnam 3744 4585 ranging from pho, bun bo Hue to mi FB Deli Coffee quang. It serves breakfast, lunch and Indian dinner. It also has an open space and District 7 FB Deli Coffee features a unique black and a VIP air-conditioned room together white design and signature coffee beans Ashoka which can hold a maximum capacity of BAKERIES imported from Italy. Guests can also enjoy Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular 500 people, making it an ideal venue for many varieties of homemade cakes, along and enduring Indian restaurants with different types of events and functions. with Tiramisu, muffins, and sandwiches. All Dunkin’ Donuts cakes 50% off from 7 to 10pm. a reputation for good food with a wide 26 Le Van Mien, D2 This American doughnut and coffee SE-1 My Khanh 2 Apartments, D7 range of North Indian culinary dishes [email protected] franchise offers munchkins, croissants, at a reasonable price. Large space donut sandwich and toasted for private parties,outdoor catering Western/ INTERNATIONAL sandwiches - along with the popular The Fountain Coffee Ice Cream Known for its Swiss ice cream with all and free home delivery also available. sugar raised, glazed chocolate mochi, Special set lunch veg/non-veg from Boathouse Oi’s Pick the fixings, Fountain Coffee also serves glazed, chocolate coconut, cinnamon, Western dishes in a spacious lounge VND90,000 upwards.Promotion (free With a great view of the Saigon River, Boston kreme, Bavarian Kreme, trip to Cambodia) and discount available this restobar serves imported steak, area. strawberry-filled or chocolate frosted for people booking in groups. healthy salads and much more in an SB4-1 My Duc Residential Complex, donuts. 33 Tong Huu Dinh (Street 53), D2 alfresco environment. Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 59 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 3744 4177 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior www.ashokavietnam.com Compound, D2; 3744 6790 MOF Japanese Sweets & Coffee www.boathouse.com.vn Savouré Bakery Crescent ITALIAN Offering gourmet cakes and pastries with te x pats A Blu Bar and Grill all the fine characteristics of the European Sourcing the majority of their dessert Pendolasco – Thao Dien gourmet tradition. Customers can choose ingredients from Hokkaido, Japan, MOF Blu Bar provides a wide range of Asian from a wide array of baked goods serves up premium desserts and a Expect excellent classic Italian cuisine – and Mediterranean specialties for including cakes, desserts, breads, cookies, Japanese restaurant menu. wood-fired pizza, spaghetti, and tiramisu – breakfast, lunch, and dinner along with wedding cakes, and moon cakes during 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 cooked with a focus on fresh flavours and many unique beverage options. the season. www.mof.com.vn/en featuring the finest imported ingredients 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 from Italy. 3744 4111 5412 2469 NYDC Established in 1995 in Singapore, NYDC, ©2014 C opyright L istings 36 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 7am - 11pm www.savourebakery.com
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 63 The New York Dessert Café, aims to eatery serves up Japanese noodles heart of Phu My Hung. Relaxing outdoor bring a piece of New York to Southeast starting from VND78,000. There are saloon featuring inexpensive Spanish Asia with their popular mudpies and a also set menus, individual dishes and a tapas and small plates from gourmet whole range of Western comfort foods. range of smaller, appetizing sides. ingredients. Affordable selection of 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 SD04, LO H29-2, My Phat Residential Spanish & French wines. Complex, D7 137 SB-02 Khu My Phat, Nguyen Duc S’cottage Restaurant - Café Canh, D7 Inspired by the mysterious wooden THAI 5412 4641, 3pm - midnight house in the Hansel and Gretl story, www.facebook.com/elcaminovietnam S’cottage serves up home-style meals Nathalie's Phu My Hung in a spacious, fairy-tale inspired space. El Gaucho SB-02 My Duc Residential Complex, Le Cochon D’or Nathalie's Phu My Hung is situated in an El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse is LeCochon Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 ideal location on a central corner in the an international chain of restaurants D’or shop sells 5411 1186 district 7 high-profile metropolitan area. serving authentic Argentinian cuisine European and International meat that include ham, CHINESE Serving delicious Thai cuisine in charming in a space reflecting modern yet rustic and romantic surroundings, the restaurant decor, giving it an inviting ambiance and sausages, pate, terrine, and smoked has two floors with a unified, simple decor genuine atmosphere. specialties. A taste of home, because Huong Vien Hunanese Restaurant and warm colourful tones throughout. Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, D7 you and your taste buds deserve it! Customizes service available including Serving China’s little-known spiciest S9 Hung Vuong 3 Apartments, D7 3825 1879 5410 0822 www.elgaucho.com.vn door-to-door delivery. cuisine, the dishes of China’s reddest 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com province and the preferred taste 3829 3856 of Chairman Mao, Huong Vien is Le Taj 8am – 7pm Le Taj offers French cuisine and features well-decorated although a bit on the Thai Express- Crescent Plaza www.ngp.com.vn pricey side, with dishes averaging Thai Express's interpretation of Thai a luxury atmosphere of black and white VND180,000 . food exhibits the best of the cuisine but design. Besides a wide variety of menu S59-S61, Sky Garden 2 Apartments, D7 with the edges softened for a global choices, Le Taj brings you to the ultimate Metro palate unused to the extremes of Thai luxury appetite garnished with 24k gold Wholesale suppliers of foodstuff, office Ming Dynasty style cooking. Averaging from 40,000 leaf. Le Taj also impresses its guests with supplies, furniture, clothes and more. Ming Dynasty serves authentic Chinese VND to 200,000 VND per dish, its price a large wine cellar featuring 150 types of Entry is reserved for business owners food in a setting reminiscent of an old can't be beat for the same quality and international wine that adds to the dining only but foreigners can obtain a one- Chinese palace. Specialties include dim deliciousness. and entertainment variety. day pass by showing their passports. sum, shark fin and abalone and dishes 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 06 Phan Van Chuong, D7 Residential An Phu, An Khanh Ward 2 from Quang Dong. 090 535 0221 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, D7 VIETNAMESE Veggy’s Salt & Pepper A specialized grocery store carrying INDIAN Salt & Pepper Restaurant mainly serves Co Ba Vung Tau imported products, Veggy’s offers Co Ba Vung Tau is a chain of traditional Italian dishes. a wide range of international food Ashoka Vietnamese restaurants serving up 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 imported from abroad and fresh Ashoka is a small chain of slightly more their famous banh khot amongst www.saltpepper.com.vn upscale Indian restaurants serving both an extensive menu of affordable produce grown in Vietnam. Northern and Southern Indian cuisine Vietnamese food. Scott & Binh’s Restaurant Oi’s Pick S54-1 Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, D7 including curries, naan and tandoris. R1-72 Hung Gia 1, Bui Bang Doan, D7 This unassuming little bistro is making S9-1 Block R13, Bui Bang Doan, D7 5410 2027 big waves with visitors to the city and 5410 1989 resident expats alike. With a menu replete wine & liquor ASIAN with tasty sandwiches, burgers, pasta, and Spice India various other international dishes, this is Spice India offers a wide range of Bacchus Corner an ideal guilty hideaway from Vietnamese Bachhus imports from most of the dishes that cater to any pallette. Enjoy Cham Charm cuisine for just one meal at least. world’s wine regions and supplies your curry with a side of Bollywood. Charm is more like a museum than a 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 wholesale and retail customers. It S6-1 Bui Bang Doan, Hung Vuong 3, D7 dining venue, filled with the artefacts and 093 841 6551 encourages wine tasting in its Pasteur sculpture of the Champa people and www.namaste-india.com.vn store using the unique Enomatic with gorgeous artworks and colourful supermarkets system, and staff are skilled in advising ITALIAN hangings on the walls. The upstairs area is on wine matches with food. a wide-open terrace with plenty of tables 100% 158D Pasteur, D1 La Cucina for a more relaxing atmosphere. The 100% Alimentation.Generale.De.Qualite cuisine is pan-Asian. is the latest high-end grocery store to 2 Phan Van Chuong, D7 grace the streets of An phu. With a rustic Beer Plaza La Cucina has opened on Crescent Beer Plaza has an extensive range charm 100% provides customers with Promenade in Phu My Hung, with of international beers in stock. WESTERN/INTERNATIONAL 100% safe, natural and local products all an open-plan kitchen that can Connoisseurs will be pleased to find all accommodate 180 diners. Enjoy sourced and manufactured in Vietnam. of their favorite varieties of beer along top-end dining featuring the best of The shop only offers products that reach Berru with unique glassware. Italian cuisine and a wide selection of Berru is a family-run Turkish restaurant international food safety requirements imported seafood, prepared from the offering a variety of Turkish specialties and runs food events at the store. All 94-96 Le Lai, D1 freshest ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic on the menu including kebabs, koftas, products are available to order online at atmosphere. mezzes and soups. This is one of the www.100percent.vn.com. Boutique Cellar Reviewed in Oi April 2013 few halal restaurants that imports all of 26b Thao dien, D2 All about wine, lots and lots of Block 07-08 CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 their halal meat. wine. Priding itself in being the sole 5413 7932 SC 3-1 Khu Pho My Khang, Nguyen Luong Annam Gourmet distributors of premium wineries around Bang, D7 An upscale deli and grocery chain offering the world. Sarpino’s gourmet groceries, cheese, organic 11 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Boomarang Bistro Saigon products, gluten -free products, fruit and Sarpino’s Pizzeria serves authentic Located in The Crescent by the vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other Italian pizzas as well as other Italian Shop Thai Duong Crescent lake, the spacious Boomarang beverages. All locations, in District 1, 2 Beer, wine, & spirits importers. dishes such as oven-baked pasta, Bistro Saigon serves Australian and 7, have a coffee lounge that serves Previously known as Tan Mai. baked rice, wraps and salad, all at and other Western food in the most breakfast, lunch, drinks and early dinner. 54 Ham Nghi, D1 reasonable prices. pedestrian friendly part of town. 41A Thao Dien street. D2. 3744 2630 3SI 12-1 Grandview, Nguyen Cao Nam, D7 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 SB2-1 My Khanh 4,Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 www.sarpinos.vn The Warehouse 3841 3883 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 A premium wine importer, distributor, www.boomarang.com.vn Salt & Pepper Italian Restaurant and retailer supplying wines from Located in the modern confines of The An Phu Supermarket all over the world, the Warehouse Large supermarket stocking a wide Crescent, this contemporary-styled Cham Charm also offers spirits, wine accessories, Famous for their extensive international range well-known international brands Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an nightly buffet featuring 8 types of of dry goods along with fresh groceries, glassware and refrigeration to open kitchen and an outdoor terrace complement their customers’ area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian oysters, American Angus beef and frozen meat and fish, fresh fruit and Australian filets, Cham Charm is vegetables, cheese, wine, toiletries and choices.
cuisine, the menu includes a selection te x pats 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas devoted to Cham arts, culture and more A and desserts, all at affordable prices. cuisine and is tastefully decorated with 43 Thao Dien, D2 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 | 5412 4848 Cham artifacts and sculptural works. Vinifera www.saltpepper.com.vn 02 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung New Classic Fine Foods Established in 2002, Vinifera is one Urban, D7 Supplier of international brand foodstuff of the most reliable wine distribution JAPANESE like Illy, Valrhona, Bonne Maman along companies in Vietnam.Offering EL CAMINO with fresh vegetables, dairy, and meat. prestigious wines from around the Osaka Ramen No. 17, Street 12, D2 world at a a great value. A small bar & restaurant situated in the www.classicfinefoods.com This sleek, open-kitchen contemporary 15C7 Thi Sach, D1 ©2014 C opyright L istings
LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 64 TravelImage by PAUL BRUINS & Leisure
Greenmarket Square, Cape Town THROUGH THE LENS
On The Road Back Images by Quach Tung Duong Translated by NPD Khanh
I used to visit Dalat when I was young. it was just me and my camera in the In those days, the city was a relatively mountains of Dalat, waiting for the first unknown tourist destination my parents ray of sun to arrive, that moment when the sometimes brought me to. Two years ago, I sun kissed the horizon, over the stretch of decided to get on my motorbike and make far-off mountains, above the vast expanse the trip from Nha Trang (where I now live) of early morning mist that blanketed the to Dalat. With a camera and a churning city. I waited for the moment when the first eagerness in my heart, I prepared myself few beams of sunlight touched the tops of a for the 140 km journey, with 30 of those green sea of pine trees. winding through dangerous mountain I will be back to this place, to these switchbacks. The reward, however, was familiar streets, to this city whose beauty sometimes misty, sometimes sun-filled changes along with the seasons. green stretches of road. Dalat mesmerizes with its fair weather Bio: Given a Nikon film camera at the and blooming flowers. The Madreado age of 14 by his father, Nha Trang-based bloom during spring time. Wild sunflowers photographer Quach Tung Duong has bloom in October. Orchid trees blossom been in love with landscape and street on the sides of the streets in February, and photography ever since, with a special countless other temperate flowers bloom attraction to Dalat. Having worked year round. for What's On Nha Trang, Duong The many villas where I’ve stayed or specializes in product photography and drank coffee in reflect French architecture. shooting interiors. Find him on Facebook at I remember the early mornings where Baliwkail or via phone at 090 526 9521.
66 67 68 GREAT ESCAPES: CAPE TOWN
The Mother City A beginner’s guide to Cape Town, the city where two oceans meet at the very tip of Africa Text by Ishay Govender
Cloaked in a cloth of white clouds as primitive fascination – man, mountain, 20 years old, South Africa is a young the early afternoon collects at the edges of sky and ocean. Juxtaposed against the democracy. While the transformation a pleasant summer day, Table Mountain city’s title as World Design Capital 2014 curve, as we’ve remerged into the world looks every bit the pretty setting for the and the various “number one destination beyond the horrors of apartheid and perfect, posh high tea. It’s a ritual the in the world” awards, no less from The social segregation, has been achingly locals know very well. When the cloth New York Times this year, the sheer force steep and the internal politics rocky at lifts, against the contrast of a vivid blue of Cape Town’s rugged beauty provides times, Cape Town is well-known for its sky, the wrap-around mountain elicits inspiration for the city’s artisans, thinkers, hospitality. This is solely because of the sighs of admiration from everyone. We, dwellers and game-changers. residents that a friendly attitude from the residents of the Mother City, never As the most visited city in South waitstaff and passers-by can be expected. seem to tire of living around the foot Africa, Cape Town has been welcoming Working through the legacy of inequality of this rock, recently voted one of the visitors both local and foreign long before has left behind a residue of social issues Seven New Wonders of the World. It’s a the awards arrived. Technically a mere from street children and beggars to those BY cape t ow n our ism provided IMAGE
69 just barely surviving above the poverty line. While the guidebooks and safari companies that lure foreigners to Cape Town’s shores may wish to gloss over the realities of township life and the everyday struggles faced by many, visitors would benefit more from a holistic, inclusive approach. The fine coastal homes and the endless beach bars and cafés along the Atlantic seaboard, in Camps Bay particularly, reflect the living conditions of a minority. But, there remains a lack of snobbishness in the area, and it sees visitors from most walks of life frequenting the beaches and restaurants. Book a well-organized township tour, and eat in the home of a local too if you can, for a more complete picture on Cape
Town life. The Maboneng Township e r land Arts Experience, for example, showcases local art in the homes of residents in Langa and provides intimate insight into lives ordinarily missed over bigger attractions. Township tours are meant to IMAGE BY bru ce s u t h IMAGE empower and not encourage ‘poorism’ or Lion's Head exploitation of locals, so do choose wisely.
Contact: Iain or Michael at www.coffeebeansroutes.com
Maboneng Township Arts experience: www.maboneng.com City of Beauty Without a doubt, visitors to Cape Town are after slices of natural beauty – flora, wildlife and breathtaking views. The city does not disappoint. A first time visitor would do well to ride on the ubiquitous big-city favorite, the hop-on hop-off bus for an initial orientation of the best of the city. A similar bus also takes visitors on parts of the famed wine route. A self-drive is highly recommended (remembering to keep on the left-hand side of the road), as roads in general are good and drivers courteous. A starting point, weather permitting, should be a cable car ride up Table Mountain for the finest views. Join locals on an early morning or late afternoon walk up Lion’s Head, an adjacent mountaintop. But do exercise u l bru ins BY pa IMAGE caution – the walk is steep and narrow at Table Mountain points, so it’s best not to attempt it alone or in the dark. If you’re looking for a little more adventure, you can perform a way provide the ideal conditions for kite dotted with small, closely grouped candy- 30-minute tandem paraglide from Lion’s surfing too. colored council homes that have become Head, or Signal Hill too. a must-see attraction. The Cape Malay A ride along the Atlantic seaboard from Hop On Hop Off Bus tours: people who live in the Bo-Kaap are mainly Sea Point to Hout Bay and up the winding www.citysightseeing.co.za direct descendants of the slaves and mountain path of Chapman’s Peak laborers who were brought to work in the provides plenty of photo opportunities Table Mountain Cable car: Cape just after the Dutch arrived in the and a few picnic spots along the way. www.tablemountain.net mid 1600s. ‘Malay’ is a misnomer, as roots The Cape suffers terribly from veld fires, can be traced to Java, Indonesia, Ceylon especially in summer; so do be wary Paraglide from Lion’s Head: and the east coast of Africa, Madagascar of throwing lit cigarettes and leaving www.paraglide.co.za in particular. The Malays brought unattended campfires. with them specialist skills in tailoring, An ideal route would involve driving Feed the penguins: construction and, notably, the Islamic onwards to Cape Point, the very tip of www.sanparks.co.za/parks/table_mountain/ religion, which remains the predominant Africa where the Atlantic and Indian tourism/attractions.php#boulders faith in the area today. It’s surprising that oceans converge in forceful splendour. apart from academic texts, very little has Don’t feed the baboons, as per all the Bo-Kaap been accurately written in popular form warnings, but do stop to feed the African The hilly roads that lead to the base of about the Malays and their history. A penguins at Boulder’s beach in Simon’s Table Mountain and the area known as new book, Bo-Kaap Kitchen (Quivertree), Town. Many of the beaches along the the Bo-Kaap, or ‘above/upper Cape,’ is transports you into the intimate lives of
70 Mandela Rhodes Place. Nearby, are the South African Parliament, the Iziko South African museum, and the Planetarium. Not to be missed is Greenmarket Square, a flea market stocked with curios from across Africa. It’s a good place to bargain, chat to vendors and people watch from one of the nearby cafés. The Grand Parade, Cape Town’s oldest public square on Adderley Street, is the place that Nelson Mandela addressed South Africans on his first day as a free man. It was also where Capetonians gathered, leaving flowers and letters in his honor when he passed away. As a daily open market, the Grand Parade is a hub of activity, used often for large gatherings. Notable attractions include the train station, City Hall and the Castle of Good Hope. If you’re looking to party all night, y gov ende r
a Long Street is your top bet. It’s packed shoulder-to-shoulder with boutiques selling local designs, cafés, bars and clubs. This is the place to be seen over weekends IMAGE BY is h IMAGE Central Business District – naturally, a street-wise sensibility should be exercised with large cameras, wallets and handbags, especially at night. Bree Street has undergone a metamorphosis over the last four years and is now the home of bars, a bakery and restaurants frequented by locals. To mingle with them, go to Jason’s Bakery for a bacon croissant, &Union for a craft beer and live music and Public Wine Bar (which operates as a bespoke meat merchant too) for a glass of superb wine and charcuterie or biltong, the dried meat snack adored by South Africans. If you’re particularly intrigued by city life and hanging out with locals and artisans, the recently gentrified neighborhood of Woodstock, containing a large food and clothing market every Saturday on Albert Road is one you should not miss. Walk along Albert Road to visit second- hand ramshackle furniture shops and new bicycle-parts/sandwich dens. It’s a an zy l fascinating mix of the old and the very new.
Jason’s Bakery: www.facebook.com/JasonBakery v BY anita IMAGE City Hall &Union: www.biergartencpt.tumblr.com
the people living here today by sharing Narkedien at shireen.narkedien@gmail. Public Wine Bar: www.publik.co.za their heritage recipes and stories. This is a com souvenir worth lugging back home. Neighborgoods market: As you ascend the slopes into the The Revitalized CBD www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za Bo-Kaap, the views out over the A gargantuan effort from various parties neighborhood and across the city become has elevated Cape Town’s central Cape Town is a thriving blend of ever more rewarding. While visitors enjoy business district in the last 10 years from African, European and Asian history and having their photographs taken against ailing, abandoned and economically energy. Locals remain positive that long the colorful backdrops of the houses, depressed to a thriving, polished center after the awards and nominations, visitors popular too with the fashion industry, with a hip buzz. Visitors to Cape Town will continue to arrive, because in some Hollywood and Bollywood, a walking can enjoy spending time with locals on way, the Mother City houses the spirit of historical tour is highly recommended. the lush green lawns of the Company all of us. Not only will your local guide thread Gardens (dating back to the 1650s), and together the history of the Malays, and walk to the St. George’s Cathedral, the Bio: Ishay Govender-Ypma is a travel, life up until today, you may also be able Anglican church where Nobel Peace Prize culture and food writer based in Cape to dine with a local family, or even stay winner Archbishop Desmond Tutu sat Town, the Mother City. She spends her time with a family. Don’t be surprised if you as the head for many years. St. George’s weaving stories on the road, cooking with meet one of the locals featured in Bo- Mall, a pedestrianized area leading locals and for clients and friends at home. Kaap Kitchen! back to the Foreshore, is dotted with If you're ever in Cape Town, look out for coffee shops, boutiques, the luxurious her specialized Fab Food Tours at www. For tours and home visits, contact Shireen Taj hotel, and luxury apartments at foodandthefabulous.com
71 LIFE'S A TRIP
Having visited nearly 60 countries as a travel writer and award-winning photographer, James Pham blogs about his adventures at FlyIcarusFly.com Complaint Resolution How to extract the best in travel customer service
Customer service in Asia seems to (especially in Asia) is much the same, but get to the airport early anyway to ask to come in extremes – cloying as in multiple unless you’re staying in high-end properties get on the next available flight to which waiters hovering over your table, or non- (read: properly-trained staff) or are on a the ticket agent promptly refused, saying existent with a side of don’t-need, don’t- more exclusive tour, chances are you’ll find it was full. With a bit more coaxing, she care attitude. I succumbed to a McDonald’s workers who are unable, unempowered or found a supervisor who magically found a meal the other day and was annoyed to simply uninterested in helping you resolve seat. Lesson: Always be calm and courteous find I had to put my order in outside the your issue. I found myself in this situation when dealing with service personnel. restaurant then take the paper to a girl with twice in the last month. First, a friend was They’re likely following a process set by the a mobile keypad waiting inside, all before booked on an 8:10pm flight to Hanoi on a higher-ups. Do your homework and know being able to get to the counter to pay for/ budget carrier. He received a text message what options are available. And appeal pick up my food. On the upside, one of the saying his flight had been changed, not to when you feel you’ve exhausted all present workers later noticed that the tip of one fry the next available flight, but to the last flight means. In his recently released book, How was burnt, and unprompted, she came back of the day. (In a cost-cutting measure, some to Be the World's Smartest Traveler (and with a complimentary order of new fries. carriers will do this if there aren’t enough Save Time, Money, and Hassle), consumer Customer service when you travel passengers on a flight.) I advised him to advocate Chris Elliott suggests knowing
72 TRAVEL Column
when to complain: started flying to the Maldives and I snagged thousands of bookings by travel operators. a round trip flight from Saigon for mid- This has affected the viability of sustaining ● If it’s something that can easily be May for USD400. In my head, I was already our renowned low fares,” it read in part, fixed in real time, like the wrong food order ensconced in an overwater bungalow 27 days after flights had been suspended at a restaurant or a hotel room with a noise watching the colorful fish swim by as I and presumably months after the decision problem. sipped on an equally colorful cocktail of had actually been made. While in the end, some sort. Unfortunately, in early February, the case was resolved satisfactorily, I still ● If you lost a significant amount of a friend (note: not the airline itself) sent me can’t believe the airline never contacted time or money because of something that a link to an article announcing that AirAsia me directly regarding a ticket to nowhere. the travel company directly controls, like a was suspending its flights beginning March Had my friend not given me a heads up, I reservation system or a staff decision. 1. I quickly sent AirAsia an email with all cringe to think what would’ve happened my flight information, using the contact had I made a non-refundable hotel booking, ● If the problem is so significant that it form on their website. Weeks went by with or even checked my flight status the week I could affect future guests or passengers, even no communication, much less a refund. My was supposed to go. if it wasn’t a terrible inconvenience to you. next option was to make a long-distance call In my book, I’m marking this down as to one of their call centers (conveniently, a customer service fail. Airlines are quick He also advises quick action. “Instead none located in Vietnam). Perpetually on to take your money (literally, in seconds), of writing a letter or calling when you hold and 30 minutes later, as I watched but have the tendency to drag their feet get home, mention your problem before the credits vanishing on my phone, the in giving it back to you. In his book, Chris you check out, deplane, or disembark. apologetic agent asked me to fill in the exact compares the pros and cons to lodging Frequently, the person behind the counter same online form as I had before. Fail. It was your grievance via paper letters, emails, is empowered to fix the issue on the spot. time to escalate. social media and online chats. Because I had If you leave without saying something, I sent out a few tweets to their exhausted the email then call center route, you’ll have to deal with an outsourced call Twitter account and within minutes social media worked well for me. Chris says center where operators have 50 ways or had confirmation that my case was that the pros to using social media are that more to say ‘no.’” Keeping a paper trail and being fast-tracked, promising “a more “the whole world sees your grievance when meticulous records is also imperative. substantive response to your problem and you post it online with a call-out to the “When you’re having the vacation from an appropriate resolution within 14 days”. company. Excellent for shaming a company hell, record-keeping is critically important. A few days later, I received an apology into giving you what you want, but can Take snapshots of the bedbug-ridden hotel email and a refund. “First and foremost, also backfire when you ask for too much”. room or the rental car with a chipped we sincerely regret to inform you that The flip-side is that “social media requests windshield. Keep all emails, brochures, effective from 1st March 2014, flights to/ generally aren’t taken as seriously, and tickets, and receipts. Print screenshots of from Maldives have been suspended. The they may be referred to more conventional your reservation,” writes Chris. withdrawal of Maldives from our route contacts, such as a company website or network is due to the challenging business phone number”. Service Fail conditions which include the depreciation Whatever your grievance, be smart In my second customer service snafu, I of Asian currencies against the US dollar and persistent about finding a resolution booked a flight to a bucket list destination and the chronic lack of hotel room supply that you can live with. After all, travel is at rock bottom prices. AirAsia had just in Maldives, resulting in cancellation of supposed to be fun!
73 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM TRAVEL Column
A professional artist and author of A Week in Hoi An, Bridget March specializes in urban landscapes and aims to reveal the hidden treasures of city life and small town Joie de Vivre! cultures through her illustrations. Bridget is currently A little corner of Paris in Hanoi offering art classes and sketching tours in Hoi An until the summer. For more of Bridget's work including news of her upcoming book visit brushwithasia.blogspot.com. BY B r id g et M a c h illustration
“Let's meet outside the ‘big there are the same muted colors of would have been broken as 700 years of church’ near the lake,” I said. What a green, gray and brown, and I began to tradition and community was so wilfully surprise I received when I arrived. On imagine that this collection of streets destroyed. Later, in 1954 the church previous visits to Hanoi I had somehow and bars in Hanoi could easily be the and all its property were confiscated. managed to miss St. Joseph's Cathedral. center of a modern day art movement It was over 40 years before the church I must have been too busy being for the talented young artists of Vietnam was, once again, permitted to reopen dragged around the 'big' tourist spots if they wished. for services. Maybe it is the fear of more or losing my way in the maze of streets The church itself is rather conflict that caused the church and the of the Old Quarter. But, this time, underwhelming in size. It is styled on little Madonna to both be surrounded by determined to find the 'big church' I the massive Notre Dame Cathedral in protective railings. arranged to meet a friend there to do Paris, as is the Notre Dame Cathedral Today, this square is peaceful. The some sketching together. I was early in Saigon. It was built in the 1880s on street that leads to the church (nha so I was able to soak in the unexpected the site of the demolished Bao Thien tho) has a collection of international atmosphere of this quiet corner of the Pagoda, an ancient and sacred meeting restaurants, local cafes and shops city for a little while. place which, coincidentally, had been housed in two slightly faded rows of As soon as I entered the secluded constructed about the same period as pretty shophouses, some of which have square, which is dominated by the the Paris cathedral. been there for many years. My friend modest facade of the church, I was In front of St. Joseph's is a charming says that nothing much changes in this transported back 20 years to a misty railed garden that is home to a small neighborhood where he founded his evening spent in Montmartre in Paris. statue of the Virgin Mary - Queen of business nearly 20 years ago. The bells The church bells marked the quarter Peace. But I suspect that this corner of chime the hour with the same flat two- hour. There is something about the scale Hanoi has not always been a haven of tone sound that can be heard at every of the buildings, the layout of the streets tranquillity. There must have been some church in France, big or small. It all adds and the crooked trees that is reminiscent unrest when it was declared that the old to that haunting feeling that I could of that romantic quarter of Paris that pagoda was to be demolished to make easily be walking those cobbled streets was the haunt of so many artists. Here, way for the invading French. Hearts of Montmartre once more.
74 The List Travel & Leisure located in front of Saigon Exhibition and FIVE STAR New World Saigon Hotel hotels Convention Centre and only 15 minutes Oi’s Pick from the city centre. It features 140 Caravelle Hotel One of the most impressive business HO CHI MINH CITY rooms with free Wifi internet access, a hotels in Ho Chi Minh City, with restaurant/bar and 3 meeting rooms. Part of the city’s modern history since stunning views and 5 star amenities. TWO STAR There is a free Ibis shuttle available to 1959, few properties in Saigon are quite 533 luxury rooms and suites offering and from the hotel to major corporate as iconic. A major center for foreign the perfect ambience for concentrated Bali Hotel offices and the city centre. correspondents during the war, it has work and undisturbed relaxation. Ideally-located for attendees to 73 Hoang Van Thai, D7 emerged as a plush and vibrant luxury 76 Le Lai, D 1 any exhibitions held at the Saigon www.ibis.com hotel in the present era. 38228888 Exhibition and Convention Centre, Bali Caravelle Hotel is one of the city’s [email protected] Boutique is flash and modern in style - Sunland Hotels classiest icons and represents a true www.saigon.newworldhotels.com with a little touch of the plush thrown in Located about 35 minutes from Tan slice of Saigon’s history while remaining for good measure. Son Nhat Airport, Sunland is a three star one of its most luxurious places to stay. Nikko Saigon 39 - 41 Hung Phuoc Villas, D 7 hotel with 90 rooms and suites. The 19 Lam Son Square, D 1 54104747 38234999 One of the city’s newest hotel also comprise a Sky Bar and Sun www.caravellehotel.com accommodation jewels, this lavish hotel Coffee Lounge. is designed to make the maximum Cat Huy Hotel 302-304 Vo Van Kiet, D1 Cat Huy is the best-kept secret of impression of austere Japanese-style 9922 3833 Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City the backpacker district, located in a class from the lobby upwards. This is peaceful and very local-looking alley www.sunlandhotel.vn An international hotel located where the one of the most luxurious hotels in close to the downtown area of Ho Chi borders of the city’s four main districts HCMC, with classic, precise and elegant Minh City, but culturally part of deep Tan Hai Long Hotel & Spa meet. The city’s major commercial and decor. suburban Saigon. Three-star Tan Hai Long Hotel offers entertainment area is only an 8-minute 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D 1 353/28, Pham Ngu Lao, D 1 106 rooms and suites, all boasting a drive away. 39257777 39208717 view of the city and Ben Thanh Market. 242 Tran Binh Trong, D 5 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn Its conference room can accommodate 38397777 Little Saigon Boutique Hotel up to 110 people with modern facilities. www.equatorial.com/hcm Park Hyatt Saigon A small, value-for-money boutique It also houses two dining venues, the hotel with 18 air-conditioned, non- La Terrasse Restaurant and L’emotion InterContinental Asiana Saigon Without a doubt the city’s most smoking rooms, Little Saigon Boutique Lounge Bar & Coffee. Oi’s Pick luxurious hotel, Park Hyatt Saigon Hotel is an easy walk to Ben Thanh 14-16 Le Lai, D1 Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh features French colonial inspired Market and other D1 sights. Hidden www.tanhailonghotel.com.vn City, the InterContinental Asiana rooms, two award-winning restaurants, away in a quiet back alley right in the 38272738 Saigon is dedicated to providing an outdoor pool and a stylish central area. local, authentic, and enriching travel contemporary bar. The exterior is the 36 Bis/2 Le Loi, D 1 FOUR STAR experiences. Decorated in tasteful result of meticulous research into the 35218462 oriental flair, the hotel is dedicated to colonial architecture of the region. Hotel Continental Saigon representing the charms of Asia and 2 Lam Son Square, D 1 THREE STAR evokes the mystique of this beautiful 38241234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com One of Saigon’s oldest hotels, most continent and its cultures. Right next to A&EM Hotel - 8A Thai Van Lung graceful colonial properties, and historic Saigon’s key landmarks, this hotel is ideally placed for high-class travellers Pullman Local accommodation chain that aims places to stay, it is perhaps most and groups seeking a high standard of at the classy mid-level market; still famous as the location where much of budget, but with a touch of dignity accommodation. Full MICE areas and The 306-room hotel features a Graham Greene’s The Quiet American about it. facilities are on-site. contemporary design, a wide range of was written in room 214. 8A/1D2 Thai Van Lung, D 1 Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 technological facilities, four bars and 132-134 Dong Khoi, D 1 38224495 3520 9999 restaurants and five meeting venues. 38299201 [email protected] Offers signature services including www.continentalsaigon.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon Welcomer, optimal connectivity with the Bizu Boutique Hotel Phu My Hung Connectivity by Pullman concept (free The hotel’s 24 guestrooms are all high-speed wifi throughout the hotel, designed with guests’ comfort in mind, Norfolk Hotel Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon Quadriga’s Personal Media Network featuring wireless Internet access along mobile application), the Co-Meeting with all the basic facilities. Other features Chic, warm exterior with boutique Classic hotel offering 5 star amenities offer for business event and functions at the hotel include a restaurant, billiards, charms within, this property is an ideal along with a scenic view of the Saigon and Fit and Spa Lounge by Pullman. karaoke, 24hr room service 24hr, an escape for business travellers from the River, and providing a unique culinary 148 Tran Hung Dao, D1 elevator, laundry service/dry cleaning and plasticity of chain hotels. experience with many options for fine meeting facilities. 117 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 dining. 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 38293415 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D 1 Renaissance Riverside Hotel 5411 1008 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 38233333 A five-star hotel located in the heart of www.legendsaigon.com Saigon’s business and entertainment
Catina Saigon Novotel Saigon Centre district. The hotel's 336 rooms and Hotel Catina Saigon provides 3 star Majestic Saigon suites offer an incredible view of the accommodation in large, boutique One of HCMC’s newest hotels, Novotel Saigon River as well as over the city. rooms that include free, high-speed One of HCMC’s oldest and most is located on busy Hai Ba Trung St, just Each guest room is designed and internet access and city views. characteristic hotels, the Majestic on within walking distance of downtown furnished with discerning business 109 Dong Khoi, D 1 the Saigon River with its grand French attractions. It’s everything you’d expect and leisure travelers in mind. Choose 38296296 architecture is just a few steps away from the international brand with a deluxe room or suite with large desk 24-seven guest services and a broad from Saigon’s premiere attractions. 01 Dong Khoi, D 1 and ample lighting, in-room coffee and EMM Hotel Saigon dining offer. 38295517 tea service, high speed internet, safe, The 56 air-conditioned guestrooms 167 Hai Ba Trung, D 1 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn well-stocked mini-bar as well as the jack at EMM Hotel Saigon include laptop- 38224866 compatible safes and minibars. bag (connectivity kit). www.novotel.com Complimentary wireless and wired Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 high-speed Internet access and in-room 3822 0033 te x pats
A refrigerators are provided. 32-inch LED Park Royal Saigon Hotel An international hotel chain with Swiss www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/sgnbr- TVs are equipped with premium cable roots, this comfortable hotel caters to renaissance-riverside-hotel-saigon channels. All accommodations provide Park Royal Saigon Hotel is an ideally both businesspeople and families with desks, safes, and direct-dial phones. placed conference hotel which caters fine dining options, a fitness centre, and Rex Hotel Saigon 157 Pasteur, D3 to all MICE needs. The hotel offers a multiple conference rooms. 01663221322 wide array of banquet services and can 253 Nguyen Van Troi Apartments, Phu Rex Hotel has consistently won awards accommodate 30 to 300 guests. Nhuan for being one of the best hotels in Ibis Hotel Saigon South 309B-311 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh 38449222 Asia. Impeccable dining options, great
©2014 C opyright L istings The 3-star Ibis Hotel Saigon South is www.parkroyalhotels.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com location, and 5 star amenities make this
75 75 recently refurbished hotel a preferred Blue Moon Hotel & Spa breakfast available at multiple locations HOI AN destination for travellers with generous are a few of the surprising offers in budgets. Located in the heart of breathtaking Dalat, store. The Nam Hai 141, Nguyen Hue, Ben Nghe, D 1 the Blue Moon Resort & Spa is designed Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang 38292185 to complement the natural beauty of the A stunning all-villa resort located on the www.rexhotelvietnam.com "City of Eternal Spring.” Built opposite Pullman Danang Resort pristine China Beach featuring 60 one- the popular and tranquil Xuan Huong bedroom retreats as well as 40 privately- Saigon Domaine Luxury Residences Lake, Blue Moon is centrally located and A pair of four-storey hotel blocks house owned two-to-five bedroom residences Oi’s Pick convenient to Dalat's eating, shopping most of the resort's rooms, with villas each with a private infinity pool. High-class getaway hotel located and entertainment spots.Much more flanking one side of a long pool corridor Hamlet 1 Dien Duong Village, Dien Ban, out of the city centre on exotic Thanh than just a comfortable night’s sleep, splicing the middle of the resort. Quang Nam Da Island, allowing guests to escape Blue Moon Resort & Spa invites you to Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang from the chaos of the city life while experience true hospitality. Oi’s Pick HALONG BAY Boutique Hoi An Resort remaining close to the action. 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat 67, Vietnam More hotel than apartment complex, www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn/bluemoon2 Boutique Hoi An Resort offers 82 The Domaine’s private residences are Novotel Halong Bay rooms and villas, with all rooms facing classic and luxurious, making the most the sea with private balconies. Other Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa A glimpse into contemporary Vietnam of the natural surroundings. facilities include spa with 3 treatment with echoes of the country’s intricate 1057 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa rooms and 5 massage pavilions, fully- past through its elegant interior décor. 35561145 is perched on an idyllic location equipped gym, restaurant, lobby lounge Sturdy polished stone, glass and www.saigondomaine.com overlooking Tuyen Lam lake and gently and pool bar and conference facilities marble stand against the delicate undulating hills. It has four categories accommodating 80 guests for dinner Asian textures of silk, wickerwork and of rooms, including VIP villas, all with functions and 130 guests for cocktail Sheraton Saigon Hotel And Towers carved wood. With sweeping windows stunningly furnished rooms, spacious parties. and large mirrors, the hotel captures Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh balconies offering sweeping mountain panoramic views of Halong Bay and its Group 6, Block Tan Thinh, Ward Cam An, City vibrant business and entertainment and/or lake view, and subtle finishing spectacular seascapes at every turn. Hoi An City district, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers touches. Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City www.boutiquehoianresort.com is a 5 star haven of convenience, Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat [email protected] connecting guests with colleagues and (063) 383 1515 HUE friends. www.dalatedensee.com TUAN CHAU RESORT 88 Dong Khoi, D 1 Ana Mandara Hue 38272828 Dalat Green City Hotel Oi’s Pick Tuan Chau Resort is constructed in the [email protected] Budget hotel in the center of Dalat. Five style of classical French and modern Located a scenic 15km drive from minutes from most major attractions in Vietnamese architecture. This is the central Hue, this is spacious resort with Sofitel Saigon Plaza Hotel Dalat. Quiet. Newly refurbished. Beautiful ideal place to find white sands, blue the largest villas and rooms in the area. mountain and city views from the rooftop. ocean, and the rejuvenative energy of The property includes private pool villas, The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is located Features free WIFI, TV, snack bar in all the Vietnamese tropical sun. beach villas, duplex and deluxe rooms in the city center, in the heart of the rooms. Coffee shop downstairs. Airport Tuan Chau Island, Ha Long City in a wide range of styles and decor business district and close to Notre pickup by private car. Motorbike rental. designed with complete and modern Dame Cathedral and Reunification Tour information. Laundry. Computers in HANOI facilities. Palace. 275 elegant rooms and 11 suites, lobby for public use. An Hai Village, Thuan An Town, Hue Phu a swimming pool, and a fitness center. 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Hilton Hanoi Opera Vang 17 Le Duan, D 1 (063) 3827 999 38241555 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com This landmark of Hanoi was inspired La Residence Hotel & Spa [email protected] by the famous Opera House located www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-2077-sofitel- Dalat Train Villa & Cafe Oi’s Pick nearby. A hotel of great beauty and This former French Governor’s saigon-plaza/index.shtml Located near the Dalat Train Station, the luxury, the Hilton stands in the city’s residence dates to 1930 and is a Dalat Train Villa is for short or long staying fashionable and elegant French masterpiece of art deco design. Its Windsor Plaza guests. The villa is a restored 2-story Quarter, and is within close range of incredible location overlooking the French colonial-era villa. Next to the villa the charming Old Quarter and bustling Citadel and the Perfume River brings Located in the heritage area of old is a French train car, which has been Business District. this 122-room hotel a total and serene Cholon, the Windsor offers authentic renovated into a bar/cafe/restaurant. 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi tranquillity. The hotel features a 40m Vietnamese and Chinese hospitality Romantic venue. From the lake, take first outdoor salt swimming pool at river with a mix of commercial, cultural, and left after Dalat Train Station. Intercontinental Westlake height giving the illusion of merging retail experiences - and they put on a 1 Quang Trung St, Ward 9, Villa #3 into the Perfume River. Ideal for fine buffet. Superbly situated on the serene waters executive retreats and exotic incentives 18 An Duong Vuong, D 5 Sofitel Dalat Palace of Hanoi’s West Lake and adjacent programmes. www.windsorplazahotel.com to the famous 800-year-old Golden 5 Le Loi, Hue Hotel Sofitel Dalat Palace is one of the Lotus (Kim Lien) Pagoda. Conveniently CON DAO ISLAND most beautiful and amongst the few located and yet able to offer a retreat NHA TRANG remaining historical hotels in Southeast from the hustle and bustle of downtown Six Senses Con Dao Asia. Built in 1922 and meticulously Hanoi, the combination of spacious restored in 1995 to its original grandeur, luxurious accommodations, facilities, Evason Ana Mandara True to the Six Senses philosophy the Sofitel Dalat Palace offers and attentive Vietnamese hospitality The exclusive location affords city- individualized service in the finest make this the perfect place to stay of selecting remote (but accessible) centre access to Nha Trang’s only tradition of Vietnamese hospitality. for both the corporate and leisure destinations in areas of outstanding beachfront resort. It is surrounded 12 Tran Phu, Dalat traveler. natural beauty, Con Dao is an by private tropical gardens, offering 06 3382 5444 1a Nghi Tam Tay Ho, Hanoi untouched and breathtakingly beautiful simplicity, serenity and refinement [email protected] area. Con Dao has been built with the together with spectacular views of Nha Sheraton Hanoi very lightest ecological footprint, with DANANG Trang Bay. Unforgettable incentive villas set up along a mile of sandy experience. Perfectly located by the shores of the beach, sheltered by the green forested Beachside Tran Phu Boulevard, Nha Trang largest lake in Hanoi and surrounded hills behind and with stunning vistas Furama Resort Danang by a beautifully landscaped garden of the deep blue sea and the curve of The Furama Resort enjoys a stunning and courtyard, the hotel provides the Six Senses Ninh Van Bay the bay. beachfront location on one of perfect balance between tranquillity and Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao, Con Son Vietnam’s finest beaches, fringed by convenience. The resort is one of Asia’s most natural pines and coconut palms. Two K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi exclusive and intimate beach escapes, DALAT four-storey wings overlook the ocean sitting on dramatic Ninh Van Bay, on one side and a freshwater swimming The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi with its impressive rock formations Ana Mandara Villas Dalat lagoon and manicured tropical gardens Oi’s Pick overlooking the South China Sea, white on the others. Features include 364 rooms and sand beach and towering mountains Ana Mandara Villas Dalat comprises Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang suites, excellent French cuisine at Le behind. te x pats seventeen restored French-style villas Beaulieu, Vietnamese specialities at Ninh Van, Khanh Hoa A from the 1920's and 1930's, preserving Fusion Maia Spices Garden, and Angelina - Hanoi's the original design, décor and charm, is most ""avant garde"" Italian Restaurant Sheraton Nha Trang and set in the cool climate of the rural It is the first all-pool villa- style resort & Lounge. Seven function rooms, a highlands of Central Vietnam. Striking in the destination and offers 87 pool swimming pool, fitness centre and the Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa offers views of the surrounding town and suites, spa villas, and beach villas Le Spa du Metropole are also available ten categories of accommodation – countryside abound from all areas of each with modern, open-plan living in the hotel. from spacious, deluxe rooms to 70m2 the gently sloping hillside property. and private courtyard with swimming 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi executive suites and a huge presidential
Le Lai, Phuong 5, Dalat pool. Customize-your-stay options and [email protected] suite. With exemplary conference ©2014 C opyright L istings
76 77 facilities, this is the number-one MICE Saigon Phu Quoc Resort kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate Somerset Chancellor Court resort in the region. work and living areas. Each lavish Each of these 172 spacious serviced 26-28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Located on a hill of coconut palm trees, space features plush interiors, modern apartments in District 1 is fully- 05 8388 0000 Saigon Phu Quoc is a beautiful, quiet amenities, elegant furnishings and furnished with an open kitchen seaside resort with plenty of sunshine. carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, PHAN THIET concept, contemporary western style Just 10 minutes from the airport, the resort creating a luxurious harmony of comfort décor, and a large balcony. is an ideal haven for relaxing, fishing, andtranquility that will have you relaxed 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D 1 Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa trekking, snorkeling, and scuba diving. and recharged, and functioning at peak 38229197 62 Tran Hung Dao, Phu Quoc performance. The new face of the former l’Anmien, 07 7384 6999 No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh this resort offers an exclusive haven of Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City Trung Tay Ward, D2 luxury and relaxation in a spectacular La Veranda It has an extensive array of modern beachfront location right in the heart of 096 829 3388 / 3742 5678 facilities and provides convenient Mui Ne. The only property in the Mui Ne The most distinguished of Phu Quoc www.the-ascott.com access to a hypermarket, international district with full conferencing facilities Island's hotels and guesthouses, La schools, a medical clinic, retail outlets and a range of exclusive villas – and it Veranda sports paddle fans, butter- InterContinental Asiana Saigon and offices. has an impressive wine cellar. yellow exteriors, whitewashed louvers, Residences 628C Hanoi Highway, D2 Mui Ne and tropical gardens recalling a colonial It’s a 31-floor tower with 260 rooms; the 6255 9900 plantation. Freestanding deluxe villas Residences offers superb panoramic www.somerset.com/vietnam Princess d’Annam are notable for their sea-facing porches, views of downtown area and is part of spacious bathrooms, and cathedral the Kumho Asiana Plaza - the city’s The Landmark The two Empress Suites are the ceilings. finest integrated complex featuring The Landmark features serviced pinnacle of luxury accommodation in Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong Beach, Phu commercial, hotel, residential and apartments, offices, luxury dining, sports Vietnam – they are mini millionaire’s Quoc a diverse choice of wining and clubs, swimming pool at the rooftop mansions in themselves, fully-equipped, 07 7398 2988 dining outlets. They will also benefit of the building with great views of the bright and spacious, and possessing of from the preferred amenities at the Saigon River. It offers one bedroom, two the same ethereal design quality that Oi’s Pick Paris Beach Resort InterContinental Asiana Saigon next pervades this whole resort. Set in the Owned and managed by a friendly and bedroom and three bedroom units for door. remote Ke Ga Bay, wordlessly beautiful. hospitable French-Vietnamese woman rent. Amenities offered include wireless Corner of Le Van Huu & Nguyen Du Hon Lan, Binh Thuan and her French husband, the resort is broadband Internet access, 100 percent 3520 8888 06 2368 2222 located about a 15-minute taxi ride from power backup, room service, maid the airport. It has an outdoor swimming service and laundry, 24-hour reception Muine Bay Resort pool, a private beachfront, recreation room, The Landmark and airport shuttle service. Located in the Mui Ne Bay and bicycles and a restaurant serving local and The Landmark is a prestigious 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 overlooking the Hon Lao pristine island French food. Each room or bungalow has development of residential www.thelandmarkvietnam.com of blue sea, Muine Bay Resort includes air conditioning, a mini bar, cable TV and accommodation and office space 103 rooms in 4-stars standard of which 32 free Wi-Fi. They also offer tours around situated in the heart of HCMC. The bungalows designed and inspired by the the island. 16-storey complex, located on a prime travel agencies Cham Tower. Cua Lap, Duong To, Phu Quoc waterfront site, was one of the first of Khu pho 14, Mui Ne Ward , Phan Thiet www.phuquocparisbeach.com its kind in the city. Asiana Travel Mate www.muinebayresort.com QUY NHON 5B Ton Duc Thang, D 1 Offering tours to magnificent scenic 0622220222 38222098 areas in Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon Indonesia, and India - the firm has The Cliff Resort and Residences strong purchasing power in these Offers 128 rooms equipped with a myriad Norfolk Mansion A comfortable serviced luxury regions, allowing it to offer heavily of amenities such as 3D smart TV, safe A hide-away style spa and beach apartment in the city center, the Norfolk and mini bar as well as private bathroom. destination set in 13.5 hectares of discounted rates. features an outdoor pool, gym & sauna, It boasts an extensive lap pool, a kid’s pool private mountainous land and beach. 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 and high-class Cantonese restaurant. and pool bar as well as submerged on The tranquillity, splendid views, Cham- deck swimming pool chairs. Its restaurant inspired architecture and surroundings 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D 1 Buffalo Tours serves a selection of local seafood are so far unmatched in Vietnam. . A premium travel agency that helps specialties and Western cuisine. Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Riverside Apts travelers customize their itinerary and Binh Dinh Zone 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet Overlooking the Saigon River, the destination packages. From corporate www.thecliffresort-binhthuan.com compound offers short and long term to small tour packages available.
0623719111 Bai Tram Resort and Spa leases. 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 www.riverside-apartments.com www.buffalotours.com.vn Bai Tram is based on holistic ideals and The Sailing Beach Resort the search for environmental balance Offers a contemporary setting in sensual embodying the trend towards seeing Saigon Pearl Apartment Exotissimo Travel tropical harmony that befits its bay host. ourselves, the natural world, and the Ho Chi Minh City’s largest five star Exotissimo Travel offers tours to Vietnam, All 192 rooms, with spacious private man-made environment as one. apartment complex, Saigon Pearl the region and the whole wide world ! balconies affording stunning ocean views, Hoa Loi, Xuan Canh, Song Cau, Phu Yen comprises six 37-story residential Local and regional tours are scattered across tropical vegetation, towers located on the banks of the for family and visitors are quick and easy ponds and rests steps from an endless VUNG TAU Saigon River in Binh Than District, to arrange, from standard to higher-end beach. about five minutes by taxi from versions. Less common 107 Ho Xuan Huong, Phan Thiet downtown. Pool, gym, supermarket and requests are tailor-built for you by friendly www.thesailingbay.com The Grand-Ho Tram Strip The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's dining facilities all on site. online operators and/or the pleasant first largest integrated resort and WindFlower Beach Boutique Hotel 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District 2 location office. ultimately will include an 1,100-room A District 1 presence will re-open soon. Located in the resort capital of Vietnam five-star hotel, a world-class casino, 41 Thao Dien, D2 – Mui Ne Bay, WindFlower Beach restaurants, high-tech meeting space, Sherwood Residence Serviced apartments available for www.exotissimo.com Boutique Hotel offers an intimate an exclusive VIP area, as well as short or long term bookings, located [email protected] setting for guests to enjoy a getaway a variety of beach-front recreation on the beach to its fullest. The hotel is activities. The first 541-room tower of in Pasteur, within walking distance home to 24 cozy deluxe rooms with this development opened in July 2013 of downtown Ho Chi Minh City, Inside Asia Travel services and sophistication that are with its casino including 90 live tables international schools, shopping centres, Inside Asia Travel is a boutique expected from a beach boutique hotel. and 614 electronic game positions. The etc. Pool, sauna, gym, mini-cinema luxury travel provider of tailor made 76 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne second 559-room tower is on track to onsite. travel arrangements for English (Vietnamese) (06) 2374 3969 / (English) open in 2015. 127 Pasteur, D 3 speaking expats and travelers 090 291 3969 Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc through Southeast Asia. Guests enjoy www.windflowermuine.com District Somerset Ho Chi Minh City highly personalized, bespoke travel Tel: (64) 3788 888 Designed with families in mind, it arrangements suited to individual PHU QUOC ISLAND www.thegrandhotramstrip.com provides relocating executives the tastes and budget. space and security to build a warm www.insideasiatravel.com Chen Sea Resort & Spa and comfortable home. Friendly staff 3844 1005 (Ext: 221) te x pats serviced apartments A Located in a quiet bay, this resort are always on hand to help with local allows guests to enjoy the peace and Diamond Island Luxury Residences knowledge. You can join in a wide Saigon River Tour natural beauty of Phu Quoc while also Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers range of social, cultural and lifestyle Established in 1998, Saigon River Tour enjoying the exclusive atmosphere that 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging activities, especially designed to help provides speedboat services and the location suggests and the resort from two- to four-bedroom units with you integrate into the local culture. speedboat tours (ecotourism, Cu Chi offers. private balconies providing panoramic 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 Tunnels, Mekong Delta) from Bach Bai Xep, Phu Quoc views of the stunning surroundings. Each 3822 8899 Dang Pier.
07 7399 5895 apartment comes with a fully-equipped www.somerset.com/vietnam 10b Ton Duc Thang, D1 ©2014 C opyright L istings
78 LIMAGEiving BY adam robert young
79 FEATURE My Life as… a gray hair plucker Interviewed by Nguyen Thi Thao, Nguyen Thuy Linh, Lan Ngo and Jeremy De Niev IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN
Hello, sit down please! Oh, my name? could become an official staff member. A My name is Hang. How old am I? I was born normal day starts at 9am and ends at 7pm, in 1987, so please don’t call me chi (older but the number of customers varies day sister), it makes me sound so old! This is by day. Most of our customers are office one of the first grey hair plucking shops in workers and are pretty evenly split between Hanoi. It’s been open for three years now. women and men. To work here, you have I’ve been working here for about a year after to be honest, self-disciplined, and there’s one of my friends introduced me to the job. definitely no listening to your own music I was born in Hanoi, and I started looking while working. In our store, we only play for work after I graduated from high school. easy-listening music. For a while, I worked part-time as a sales I get along well with my co-workers; associate in a clothes shop. For that job, I we’re like brothers and sisters. And the needed to have a high school diploma and owner is really friendly. He’s easygoing, and good sales skills. But this is the best job he lets us choose whether we want to work I’ve had by far. I live nearby, so it’s super full-time or part-time. For Tet he even took convenient for me. And while I’m here, well, all of us out to eat together. I’m just here. The work is really easy and One of my favorite things about suitable for girls. working here is getting to know the I had to do a week of training before I regular customers. They talk a lot while
80 gave me permission to work here. This shop is different from other hair shops. We specialize in plucking white hair, and no "Actually, some customers really like me; they customers ask for other services [a reference to massage/sexual services available at think of me as a daughter or granddaughter. In many hair salons for men]. The customers here know how to behave. the old days, only little kids would pluck their You know what keeps me going every day? I find it interesting that with every head of parents’ or grandparents’ white hair right? So hair you need to pluck, you have to adapt and find your own technique. There’s thin hair, customers tend to see me in that light. Nobody thick hair, curly hair, all types. And we’ve got ever looks down on me" a different type of tweezer for every different kind of hair. And you know what? After all this plucking, I’ve come up with a theory. I can guess someone’s character from the type of hair they have. Thick-haired people? I’m plucking their hair, you know, they extra days. It’s enough for me. I live with my They’re hard-headed. [Laughs] share about their family and their lives and family and don’t have to pay rent, so I’ve still My dreams? I’ve only been here a year, so stuff. But my boss warned us beforehand, got lots to go to the café with my friends. it’s a little early for me to start thinking about “Don’t get too close to the customers,” And it’s a fair salary, I think. After all, each other jobs. I used to take English classes in so we’re always careful to keep things head takes a different amount of time. For the evening, and I’m thinking of starting professional. Actually, some customers example, say someone comes in and I spend them again. These days, just about every job really like me; they think of me as a two hours plucking their hair. That works requires a foreign language. Mainly though, daughter or granddaughter. In the old days, out to VND60,000 an hour. Plus, I never have I dream about the family I’ll have some only little kids would pluck their parents’ to work overtime. There was one day when day. My dad owns a motorbike repair shop, or grandparents’ white hair right? So it was time to close the shop but one of the so maybe one day after I get married, my customers tend to see me in that light. customers only had half of his head plucked. husband and I will open our own motorbike Nobody ever looks down on me. We just asked him to come back the next day repair shop. [Sighs and smiles] to get the rest of his head plucked. Well, he Personality in Every Strand came back, and we took care of it. Additional editing by Gerard Sasges When I first started my salary was VND1.8 Some of my friends were surprised at Excerpted from It's a Living: million a month, but after one year I’ll get first when I told them about the job, but Work and Life in Vietnam VND2 million. I get a raise every year on when they come and see what I do, they Today, available in paperback the anniversary of the day they opened the like it. My parents think my job is pretty on Amazon or as an e-book on shop, and then some bonuses for working okay. After they came to see the store, they iTunes (scan code).
81 HIGHER LEARNING
Adrian Watts is the Deputy Headmaster and Brain Overload Director of Academic Studies at the International Are ‘digital natives’ really School of Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) effective multitaskers?
I thought the topic of multitasking might be useful to parents because at some stage in your child’s development you are going to hear the phrase, “You don’t understand, I am doing my homework. We (digital natives) can listen to music, chat, Facebook, watch Youtube, text and do homework all at the same time. Our brains are different to yours; we can multitask.” ‘Digital native’ is a term used to describe people born during or after the widespread introduction of digital technologies and who, through interacting with digital technology from an early age, have a greater understanding of its concepts. The question is can our childrenreally multitask? Multitasking in this context refers to looking at various multi-media at the same time. This has become a part of everyone's life that's grown rapidly. For most of human history this has not been an issue, but today it is one that we need to think about. In the late 1990s the first research introduced us to a new state of mind, Continuous Partial Attention which refers to the desire to be a live node on a network and not miss anything going on in our social media world. Hence, the need to always be connected; being alive is being connected, paying continuous partial attention to anything else. This research has been built upon by many universities and from these studies we can see why multitasking has increased. Researchers believe that this is because of Partial Media Displacement. What this means is that as new technologies are created they take the place of the previous technology, for example radio has been replaced by TV. However, in the rapidly changing 21st century new technology emerges more quickly and what has happened is that instead of stealing time from old technology as in the past, new technology gets placed on top of existing, double or triple booking the same time space, leading to the need to multitask. Results show that heavy social media users have on average four sources open at any one time and spend up to 40 percent of what they define as work time following social media. Terrible at Everything Researchers from Duke University and The Kaiser Family Foundation have found that developing brains can become more easily habituated than adult brains to constantly switching tasks and are less able to sustain
82 EDUCATION Column
attention. Hence when adults are not social media sites are a problem, because each associated with students’ grades. They found supervising computer use, and children of these tasks is very demanding, and each that students who could not resist the urge to are left to their own devices, the impetus of them uses the same area of the brain, the use Facebook during their observation periods isn’t to do homework but to connect. The prefrontal cortex. had lower grade point averages than those research from these leading sources clearly There are four major issues arising from who didn’t go on the site. shows that students often juggle homework multitasking by students when doing their So the answer to the question "Can students and entertainment but this does not come homework. Firstly, the assignment takes multitask?" is a categorical "no"! without consequences, as this 14-year-old longer to complete because of the time However, it’s not all bad news. Researchers student describes: “I’ll be reading a book for spent on distracting activities. Secondly, at the University of Washington believe we homework and I’ll get a text message and the mental fatigue caused by repeatedly have the opportunity to take control of the pause my reading and put down the book, pick dropping and picking up a mental thread situation. They suggest that we approach up the phone to reply to the text message, and multitasking as a skill and teach the tools that then 20 minutes later realize, ‘Oh, I forgot to will help students to focus, avoid distraction, do my homework.’” and judge what they pay attention to as Research from Stanford, MIT, Michigan and "Researchers they’re exposed to distractions. They feel California State all produced shocking results it’s a matter of training the brain. In recent that support the quote above. They discovered are beginning to studies involving introducing students to that multitaskers are terrible at every aspect mindfulness, researchers found that those of multitasking. They're terrible at ignoring demonstrate that trained concentrated for longer periods of irrelevant information; they're terrible at time, were more focused, and could ignore keeping information in their head organized multitasking while irrelevancies. The students felt they gained and they're terrible at switching from one learning is negatively control and no longer felt that they had to task to another. Evidence from psychology, deal with everything immediately. They had cognitive science, and neuroscience suggests associated with more time and could make skillful choices. that when students multitask while doing Other studies that allowed students to build schoolwork, their learning is far spottier students’ grades" in tech breaks to periods of work, found that and shallower than if the work had their full over time, students were able to extend their attention. They understand and remember less, working time to 20, 30, even 45 minutes, as and they have greater difficulty transferring leads to more mistakes. Thirdly, students’ long as they knew that an opportunity to get their learning to new contexts. subsequent memory of what they’re working online awaited in the future. It’s clear from these studies that there on is impaired if their attention is divided. A piece of advice from one researcher is: are negative effects of divided attention on Finally some research has suggested that “Parents can draw a line when it comes to learning. Scientists show that the brain simply when distracted, our brains actually process homework and studying, telling their kids, cannot do two complex tasks at the same time. and store information in different, less useful ‘This is a time when you will concentrate on It can do very simple tasks that don’t compete ways, which can result in less flexible use of just one thing.’” with each other for the same mental resources. acquired knowledge. The opinions expressed in this article are those However, doing homework while texting, Researchers are beginning to demonstrate of the author and do not necessarily represent emailing or posting on Facebook and other that multitasking while learning is negatively the views of Oi.
83 The List
Education and expat children providing childcare Australian International School (AIS) education The Australian International School is services, comprehensive pre-school an IB World School with three world and kindergarten programs and an SCHOOLS [children] class campuses in District 2, HCMC, internationally aligned elementary offering an international education school curriculum. from kindergarten to senior school 40 Ba Huyen Than Quan, D3 with the IB Primary Years Programme 3930 5930 (PYP), Cambridge Secondary www.fis.edu.vn Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). Kids Club Saigon Xi Campus (Kindergarten) Early childhood centers in Phu My 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Hung offering creative play-based Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Deutsche Schule programs for children ages 2 to 5. Primary School) Ho Chi Minh City Known for unique facilities, experienced APSC Compound International staff, high-quality learning resources, 36 Thao Dien, D2 German School and small class sizes Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Deutsche Schule 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, D7 Middle & Senior School) (IGS) offers a German curriculum 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, D7 from Early Years to Grade 12 which East-West Highway, D2 5412 5944 is approved and supported by the www.kidsclubsaigon.com 3742 4040 German government. IGS is staffed www.aisvietnam.com by native German, Vietnamese and ABC International English speakers who have many Kinderworld International School (ABCIS) years of teaching experience. We Kindergarten Inspected and judged offer a link between Vietnamese KinderWorld International Kindergarten an outstanding school and German culture, an international has been in operation since November program with German standards and by British Government 2006 and offers both international and the immersion of German culture into local kindergarten services for children Inspectors (October everyday life. aged 1.5 to 5.5 years old. 2013), the ABCIS is one of the few 12, Vo Truong Toan, schools worldwide awarded this An Phu The Manor Building, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Department for Education rating. 08 37 44 63 44 Binh Thanh Progress of students puts the ABCIS [email protected] 3514 3036 among the top 8% of schools in the www.igs-hcmc.de [email protected] world. Providing education for 2-18 year olds in a supportive and friendly Horizon International Bilingual School International School Saigon Pearl environment, it delivers a culturally A bilingual school, HIBS opened in ISSP is an elementary school for adapted version of the British 2005 and applies 100 percent of children 2 to 11 years of age. Offers National Curriculum supported by the Vietnamese national curriculum, an academically rigorous American Cambridge & AQA IGCSE and AS/A MOET, as well as providing students curriculum. The school has several levels. Students are prepared for with an intensive English program smartboards, projectors and an Universities in the UK, USA, Australia, along with teaching science and math independent IT suite that allows Korea and Canada. British in English. students the opportunity to interact with Enquiries and Admissions International 6 - 6A - 8, 44 Street, D2 technology to enhance learning. Tel: 5431 1833/34/35/36 School (BIS) hibsvietnam.com 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Email: [email protected] Inspected and 082227788 www.theabcis.com approved by the British Government, www.issp.edu.vn BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body L’atelier from pre-school to Year 13. The Classes include spelling and grammar American International School school is staffed by British qualified tuition after school, monitoring for the Founded in 2006, American and trained teachers with recent UK French education program, preparing International School (ΛIS) is a private, experience. Fully accredited by the for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), coeducational, university-preparatory Council of International Schools and a and Vietnamese lessons, including school for students from preschool to member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest extra-curricular activities during the grade 12. The language of instruction international school in Vietnam. holidays. is English. The school offers An Phu Primary Campus 33/19 Quoc Huong, D2 standard American curriculum with a 225 Nguyen Van Huong Street, D2 3744 6844 complement of performing arts, visual 3744 4551 www.latelier-anphu.com arts, music and sport programs. [email protected] Elementary School (102C Nguyen Van An Phu Secondary Campus Montessori International School of Cu, D1) 246 Nguyen Van Huong Street, D2 European Vietnam Middle School (35 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh 3744 2335 International The school seeks to enable all its [email protected] Thanh) School HCMC pupils to achieve their fullest potential Tu Xuong Primary Campus The European International School Ho High School (781/C1-C2 Le Hong Phong, by providing them with a nurturing 43-45 Tu Xuong Street, D3 Chi Minh City (EIS) offers a supportive D10) and challenging academic education and stimulating environment, and by 3932 0210 from Early Years to Grade 12 (K-12) being sensitive and responsive to [email protected] an. EIS promotes inter-cultural their individual needs. Their curriculum APU International School www.bisvietnam.com understanding and respect, not as Operating since 2004, APU is designed based on Montessori an alternative to a sense of national International School is a private methodology and practice, and is identity, but as an essential part of enhanced with a variety of programs. coeducational international school life in the 21st century. Its motto is Canadian International School 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 enrolling students from Kindergarten “Educating Global Citizens”. Now in its fifth year of operation 3744 2639 to Grade 12. Instruction is conducted Thao Dien Campus with a student population of 700 www.montessori.edu.vn in English, but there is an English 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien students in grades K-12, CIS- VN has Street
Language Development (ELD) received approval from the Ministry te x pats Thao Dien, D2 Noah's Club A program available to students who of Education and Training in Vietnam www.eishcmc.com Providing high quality care & education require it. It is currently a member of and the Department of Education and for kids aged 1-6 in District 2 . Various the College Board, and is an official Training in Ho Chi Minh City to accept creative & fun programs, beautiful SAT testing site. both Vietnamese nationals and expat Fosco International School outdoor space with a warm family Elementary (501 Lac Long Quan, D11) nationals. The school’s language of Caters to pre-school children from 18 feeling and more. Middle and High School (286 Lanh Binh instruction is English. months to 4 years and elementary No3, Duong so 4, Nguyen U Di, D2 Thang, D11) No 86, Road 23, D7 students from 5 to 12 years. It offers 3744 4709 www.apu.edu.vn www.cis.edu.vn enrolment opportunities to both local [email protected] ©2014 C opyright L istings
84 SSIS enrolls over 850 students in Him Lam Residential Complex, Nguyen Early Childhood – Grade 12 from over Huu Tho, D7 thirty-three countries in a spacious six- hectare, well-equipped campus. Smartkids An international childcare centre provides 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 kindergarten and pre-school education for www.ssis.edu.vn children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play. 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 www.smartkidsinfo.com Saigon Star SCHOOLS [ADULT] Renaissance International Cetana PSB Intellis International School International Saigon Star is a student focused College School Saigon PSB College offers a suite of international primary school internationally-recognized diploma Renaissance is an International offering high quality first class programs from business, marketing, provision. Specializing in the British British school providing an inclusive hospitality to finance. National Curriculum, all of the class curriculum based upon the British 144-146-148 Le Lai, D1 teachers hold international teaching curriculum complemented by the www.psbcollege.edu.vn qualification. In the early years International Primary Curriculum program, a Montessori specialist works and International Baccalaureate. closely with the main class teachers RMIT International The school has made a conscious The International to ensure a high rate of progress. The University Vietnam RMIT Vietnam offers programs from school also provides specialists for decision to limit numbers and keep School Ho Chi Minh City business and management to design and children requiring extra class sizes small to ensure each (ISHCMC) micro engineering. support with ESL. student is offered an education The most established 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 school in Ho Chi Minh Residential Area No.5, tailored to meet his or her individual Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 learning needs. It is a family school City is celebrating 20 3742 STAR / 3742 7827 Universal English Center UEC was founded in 2009. Now with providing a stimulating and secure years of success in 2013. ISHCMC www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn is the only school in HCMC with 600 students drawn from 17 different learning environment with first-class nationalities, the class is served by over 35 facilities including a 350-seat theatre, full accreditation to teach all three native English speaking teachers who are swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, IB programs to students from 2 to Singapore International School at committed to providing a culturally diverse 18. ISHCMC is fully accredited by Saigon South gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama Commenced operations in August and engaging classroom atmosphere. The center offers a wide range of classes rooms, science labs and both the Council of International 2008, The Singapore International from beginner levels through IGCSE, an all-weather pitch. Schools (CIS) and the New England School at Saigon South (SIS @ SS) is a purpose-built international school SAT, IELTS, TOEFL. UEC also provides 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Association of School and Colleges campus that has a capacity of 625 support to students aspiring for a place in 3773 3171 ext 120/121/122 (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international schools. te x pats students. It operates classes from A www.renaissance.edu.vn international accreditation kindergarten to senior high school. R4-55-56-57 Hung Gia 5, D7 organisations. ISHCMC has 975 No 29, Road 3, Trung Son Residential Area, www.uec.edu.vn students from over 50 different Binh Chanh Saigon South International School nationalities enjoying www.saigonsouth.sis.edu.vn VLS Vietnamese Language School Founded in 1997, Saigon South Imparting genuine fluency in Vietnamese recently upgraded since 1994, VLS is one of the city’s best- International School seeks to Vstar School facilities. Vstar School provides education from organised and most professional training accommodate an increasing need 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Grades 1-12 in a spacious 30,000m2 centers devoted to the Vietnamese for American education for both local www.ishcmc.com environment including a sports field and language, with classes for all levels.
©2014 C opyright L istings residents and expatriate families. swimming pool. R4 -28 Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, D7
85 The List
Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive Health & Beauty insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 gyms. nutrition to nourish and maintain their animal welfare education and low-cost ladieswear personalfitnessathome.blogspot.com health. spaying campaigns. 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 31-44 Thao Dien, D2 Anupa Eco Boutique Oi’s Pick Body By Jovie www.arcpets.com The boutique has been converted into Body By Jovie is a boutique personal Saigon River Club an eco-boutique which houses the training center and yoga studio, catering Located in Ruby Tower at the Saigon Pearl, Saigon River Club is equipped An Phu International Clinic complete Anupa leather collections to individuals demanding diversity, An international standard clinic and semi precious jewelry as well as with the very latest in fitness challenge and results. It specializes in one technology. It has a fully-equipped with a full range of specialist and up-and-coming eco designers both on one session and also offer a full range sauna and steam room and a large modern medical equipment with a locally and internationally such as ready of classes such as yoga, TRX suspension outdoor pool with jacuzzi. dedicated team of professors, doctors, to wear mens linen shirts, ladies cotton class, belly dancing, Zumba and outdoor Ruby Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh experienced nurses. dresses, chicken leg watch straps, boot camp. Thanh 251A Luong Dinh Cua, D2 bamboo glasses and scarves with Riverside Residence, Nguyen Luong 6660 6602 pendants. Bang, D7 Star Fitness Bitexco www.dakhoaanphu.com 9 Dong Du, D1 [email protected] Located in The Manor Tower, this gym www.anupa.net / facebook: anupaluxury 7am - 9pm (Weekdays) and is not only a fitness center it includes Family Medical Practice 7:30am - 7pm (Saturdays) other specialized classes such as yoga, Gaya belly dancing, kick boxing, zumba, body With a nationwide operational advantage, A high-end shop that sells cocktail and toning, and so on. they provide international standard party dresses by French-Cambodian California WOW Level 1, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh medical services in a safe, professional The first and largest international designer Romyda Keth. Gaya has 3514 0255 and welcoming environment. fitness company to open in Vietnam. specializes in home interior products. 95 Thao Dien, D2 Provides world class fitness services 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Spa InterContinental & Healthclub 3744 2000 and products in a state-of-the art 5-star Guests will have access to a 20-meter www.vietnammedicalpractice.com fitness and entertainment facility. outdoor lap pool complete with a [email protected] Kelly Bui sundeck, a 160-square meter spacious Launched in April 2010, the shop sells 126 Hong Bang, D5 8am-6pm Monday-Friday, 8am-2pm fitness centre with the latest generation the most recent collections by the 28-30-32 Le Lai, D1 Saturday cardio and resistance equipment, plus a brand. The collections shown on the 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 personal program of fitness classes. website are the same as those in-store. 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon Australian Clinic & Pathology B1-24, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Christina Eberlin Yoga Teacher Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Diagnostics Christina graduated from Virajati 300hr Ton, D1 [email protected] The Australian Clinic, Pathology & yoga teacher training in Thailand. She 8am – 9:30pm Diagnostics (ACPD) is comprised of a Valenciani Oi’s Pick is offering private yoga classes and medical outpatient clinic and associated Highly respected Vietnamese designer group classes. For more information The Health Club pathology laboratory. The clinic hosts you can reach her at whose collections are featured in ELLE The Landmark Health Club is located on highly trained and experienced medical Vietnam and Vogue Vietnam. [email protected] the 15th and 16th floors of The Landmark specialists. or 093 849 2461 serviced apartments, and offers a fully 1F/12 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 273 - 275 Ly Thai To, D10 3821 2788 equipped gym, rooftop swimming pool, 090 785 5788 Cyril And You and a squash court. It also features French physical instructor Cyril male and female changing facilities and specializes in sports conditioning, saunas. menswear resistance training and senior training 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 [email protected] along with designing a personal fitness Anna Vo Fashion Boutique program to fit your needs. Thao Dien, The Crescent Wellness Club A popular designer currently in Saigon, D2; 094 777 1326 Overlooking The Crescent complex’s Anna Vo produces seasonal collections www.cyril-and-you.com lagoon, this multi-purpose and inspired by her time in Europe and organically designed fitness and Vietnam as well as aiming to be both Get Fit Gym wellness centre offers an array of beautiful and functional. The boutique Located on the 3rd floor in the H3 modern facilities including a state-of- also carries pieces from her mother Building, this international-standard, the-art gym, group fitness classes, yoga Thuy Nga’s collections as well as high gym offers a steam bath and sauna, sessions, a squash court, swimming Centre Medical quality imported accessories. Each yoga, kickboxing, rumba, salsa, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar. International collection includes both menswear and merengue, cumbia and reggaeton 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, Centre Medical womenswear. classes. 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 International 23 Dong Khoi, D1 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 was created in X-Rock Climbing 1992 by Pr Alain With two locations in the city, this wall Carpentier and Bonjour K1 Fitness & Fight Factory in An Phu stands at 26 meters. The Dr Duong Quang A fashion boutique at the Vo Van Tan/ A well-known brand name founded by center offers nine levels from beginners Trung, director of the health service Cao Thang T-intersection providing an a group of professional kickboxers and to hardcore. of HCMC. In the heart of the city, exhaustive range of one-off fashion now present in France and Southeast 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 just near the Notre-Dame Cathedral, pieces and accessories with both a Asia, including Montpellier and Phnom www.xrockclimbing.com French and Vietnamese doctors modern and vintage feel. Prices are Penh as well as here in Saigon. provide high quality medical service affordable for both men and women 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Yoga Club in 12 specialties: General and tropical and come in a range of sizes to suit Yogo fitness center for both men and medicine, Cardiology, Gynecology, most customers. women Traditional oriental medicine, Nicky's Zumba® Fitness Studio Ophthalmology, Speech and language 446 Vo Van Tan, D3 18 Street Number 2, D2 They offer Zumba®Fitness, Yoga, Cross therapy, Osteopathic, medicine, Fit, Pilates Personal Fitness, Nurtition Pediatrics, Psychiatry, Psychology, Advice and Hip hop kids, Aerobic kids, Psychomotor Therapy, and Dietetics. gyms ZumbAtomic®. clinics All our profits are dedicated to the Available at: Panorama-Fitness (206 Tran American Chiropractic Clinic Heart Institute which helps deprived Ais Sports Complex Van Tra, D7), Fit & Fun Club (Sky Garden 2, Vietnamese children American Chiropractic Clinic is a to pay their cardiac Open to the public, the center has a D7), Cyril&you (49a Xa Lo Ha Noi, D2), and chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot surgery. 25m swimming pool, basketball court Sommerset (8 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1). care clinic in the Heart of Saigon. We 1 Han Thuyen, D1 and an astroturf play area. Inquire about 093 406 0735 or 6680 7226 are staffed by American and French- 3827 2366 te x pats special packages. [email protected] trained Chiropractic Physicians and www.cmi-vietnam.com A APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 www.zumba-saigon.com Vietnamese Physical Therapists. www.aissportscentre.com 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, D3 Nutrifort Fitness www.acc.vn Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic Amaryska Kamionko Aiming to be the voice of health and Beautiful international clinic a short Private fitness trainer, assisting in full fitness in Vietnam, Nutrifort provides Animal Rescue & Care distance from the cathedral, with body workouts, toning & strength clientele with proper tools and teaching Abandoned and wild cats and dogs can exemplary standards of healthcare for training for females. Sessions often at methods to keep the mind and body be adopted or fostered from their online walk-in patients.
clients’ homes or at their designated fit and healthy. Clients also learn about database. ARC also organizes several 8 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 ©2014 C opyright L istings
86 David Shepherd Chiropractic Clinic Vietnam Family Medical Practice Minh City, and with the slogan “slight, natural world which firmly belongs to DSCC provides Chiropractic care International clinic located in the Manor exact, and painless,” the doctors at this region. for patients using state of the art complex, within easy reach of high- Saint Paul aim to please even the most 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 physiotherapy equipment imported rollers living around the Saigon Pearl fastidious patients. from USA. DSCC is managed and area. The sister clinic is located beneath 50 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tu Du Hospital operated by American doctors who use Diamond Plaza. 3835 6159 Tu Du is a large state hospital modern and advanced technologies Ground Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh specializing in maternity, women, and techniques to ensure safe, gentle, and Thanh Smile Dental Center children’s diseases, family planning, and Quality dental care with whitening, effective treatment. many other areas. Highly experienced cleaning, and orthodontic services. 41 Noi Khu, Hung Gia 3, D7 doctors and staff provide affordable www.saigonchiropractic.com dental Japanese equipment and techniques. 173 Ton Dat Tien, D7 care. 284 Cong Quynh, D1 Diag Center International 2000 Dental Clinic Trung Tam Implant 5413 6635 Situated in Ho Chi Minh City, Diag Established in 1999, 2000 Dental Center International is a diagnostic Starlight Dental Clinic Vu Anh International Hospital - Clinic now has 65 dentists serving Award-winning quality care and Obstetrics testing center, which consists of a team 3 locations offering the full range of of thirty Vietnamese staff, and operates personal service in clean premises, Luxurious hospital facility offering dental care, including surgery, implants offering general dentistry, whitening modern care in a comfortable setting. under French medical biologists and and extractions. assisted by a group of Vietnamese and cosmetic surgery, implants, The hotel also provides 12 VIP rooms 125 Le Thi Rieng, D1 medical technicians trained in France. orthodontics, pediatric, and preventive for patients seeking 5 star medical
146 An Binh, D5 dentistry. services featuring garden access and Dang Luu Dental Centre 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 designer furniture. Dang Luu Dental Centre offers the Family Medical Practice 3822 6222 15-16 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap With a nationwide operational advantage, full range of dental services, including they provide international standard implants, crown and bridges and teeth Westcoast International Dental Clinic medical services in a safe, professional whitening. Orthodontic services are also Large, international team of dentists and welcoming environment. provided. Some of the dentists have and support staff from Canada, nails 95 Thao Dien, D2 been foreign-trained. Australia, Japan, France, Italy, Thailand, www.vietnammedicalpractice.com 34 Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh and Vietnam. The clinic regularly hosts Classic Nails Located near Ben Thanh Market, Classic [email protected] visiting dentists from many other 8am-6pm Monday-Friday, 8am-2pm Digital Dental Clinic countries. Nails is a professional salon with staff who Saturday Digital Dental Care draws on well- 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 are trained and experienced in designing known Korean consistency in service 3825 7485 complicated pattern. The salon only uses Hanh Phuc International Women & standards and precision equipment to materials from reputable companies and Children’s Hospital offer a truly world-class service in the always update with the latest colors. They Hanh Phuc International Hospital aims Phu My Hung area. hospitals also have sofas with a massage function to be the leading private healthcare R4-35 Ton Dat Tien, D7 and adjustable posture for the customer’s provider for women and children in Cao Thang Eye Hospital comfortable and relaxation. Vietnam. Designed and managed up to Elite Dental The CT International Eye Hospital is one 4 Phan Boi Chau, D1 Singaporean standards, the 260-bed With an atmosphere more reminiscent of the few dedicated, comprehensive eye 3825 7047 Hanh Phuc Hospital aims to provide of a luxury hotel, this is one of the institutes in the country. Internationally 9am - 8pm a comprehensive range of quality largest high-quality dental clinics in recognized staff diagnose and treat the healthcare services to women and HCMC, established to answer expat entire spectrum of conditions of the eye, children with a personalized touch and demands for superb dental techniques including complex problems such as Fame Nails A place for your nail care near Ben in a warm and friendly atmosphere. and professional staff. diabetic retinopathy, retinal detachments, Thanh Market. Besides classic manicure 2nd floor Saigon Trade Centre, 57A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 macular degeneration, glaucoma, and 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 cataracts. and pedicure, it also offers deluxe spa European Dental Clinic 135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 manicure and pedicure, nail art and Institute of Traditional Medicine Offering state of the art technology, enhancement, and services including Established in 1975, the Institute competitive pricing, and supreme Cho Ray Hospital waxing, facial, eyebrow shaping and eye of Traditional Medicine is a holistic quality, this dentistry is truly dedicated Cho Ray Hospital is the largest lashes extension. research and teaching hospital. Patients to their patients. healthcare service in Vietnam, providing 18 Pham Hong Thai, D1 full priority service for expatriates, with are treated using traditional medicines, 17-17A Le Van Mien, D2 www.famenails.com some of which are produced by the a staff including 696 doctors and 1350 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com institute itself. Some doctors speak nurses. Kelly Pang English and/or French, and acupuncture 201B Nguyen Chi Thanh, D5 Nail salon established in 2004 as a lessons are on offer. small nail salon in Phu Nhuan, Kelly 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan German International Dentistry German International Dentistry offers Columbia Asia International Hospital Pang has gradually become known as - Gia Dinh a training center and professional nail International SOS Medical Care excellent consultation services from Skilled and experienced doctors Located in the city center, the clinic experienced, international dentists so offer exceptional medical care at care facility throughout Vietnam. is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a that you can make informed decisions affordable prices with the latest in 214C Nguyen Trai, D1 year providing routine and emergency about your dental care. medical technology. Patients benefit healthcare services as well as on-site 1489 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 from advanced medical diagnostics, OPI Nail Spa Nguyen Hue laboratory and radiology services. treatment and personal care. Providing a full range of official products Languages spoken include Japanese, Grand Dentistry 1 No Trang Long, Binh Thanh and services of the OPI brand. Korean and French, among others. Grand Dentistry is an upscale dental 103 Nguyen Hue, D1 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 office located in the ground floor of DialAsie International Hospital 3829 8551 Sunwah tower on Nguyen Hue street. A specialist centre in kidney treatment It is noted for being very tourist/expat for the expat community, DialAsie is a spas Saigon Acupuncture friendly. This dentistry features English fairly well-reputed international hospital Practitioner Christopher Booth, M.S., speaking staff and expatriate dentists. of nephrology & dialysis, offering An Nam Spa L.Ac., is now accepting new patients. Ground Floor Sun Wah Tower, medical consultancy in renal diseases, Housed in a beautiful nine-story Chris treats the following conditions 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 haemodialysis, and paraclinical building with different areas for with acupuncture: Chronic and examinations. men and women, guests can enjoy Acute Pain, Neurological Disorders, 253 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Minh Khai Dental Clinic a panoramic view of Saigon while Gynecological Disorders, Emotional & French/American/Swiss managed calming their senses in a relaxing Psychological Disorders, among others. clinic with well-maintained international- FV Hospital sanctuary. 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 standard equipment. FV Hospital is a Vietnam’s only 26-28 Dong Du, D1 [email protected] 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Nguyen Cu internationally accredited healthcare www.facebook.com/saigonacupuncture Trinh, D1 facility. A wholly foreign-owned general hospital offering a wide range of Dermal Essentials Naomi Dental Clinic medical and surgical services under one Dermalogica, a Los Angeles-based Stamford Skin Center A full service dental clinic under the roof, equipped to care for patients from company, is a revolutionary skin The Stamford Skin Centre has grown direction of Japanese dentist Dr. consultation and diagnosis through to treatment system. Call Dermalogica’s to include qualified specialists who Nakashima Mikio. the completion of treatment. therapists for a complimentary Face treat general diseases of the skin such 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 R4-45 Hung Phuoc 4, D7 Mapping consultation. as acne, eczema and other forms of 108 Pasteur, D1 dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, and skin 5410 3937 Saigon International Maternity cancers. Hospital J.S.C. 254 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Saigon Smile Eden Spa A private-owned hospital specialising Extremely central, Eden is located te x pats With a group of experienced doctors
A in maternity, this was the first hospital in a quiet niche off Nguyen Hue in and professional staff trained to do to meet the Hotel-Hospital international Victoria Health Care International the commercial center. Owing to its Clinic teeth cleaning, dental work and other standard in HCMC since the year 2000. Victoria Healthcare offers the highest teeth enhancing procedures. 63 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 expertise in skincare and first-class standard of healthcare, based on 96 Tran Nao, D2 relaxing atmosphere, Eden has the American and European practices, and 6674 4255 Traditional Medicine Hospital gumption to claim a number-one spot offering compassionate and efficient 8am to 8pm This hospital is a major medical centre in the discerning Japanese market. service with the greatest respect for the practising the essence of that millennia- 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 patient. Saint Paul old exploration into the rhythms of the 3821 3815
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87 L’Apothiquaire - Saigon South at competitive prices. Full hair care, This Japanese/French style spa is an facial, massage, nail spa, beauty care & home & furnishings exclusive distributor of organic French waxing services. skin care products, and other exclusive 1st & 2nd Floor, 45 Nguyen Hue, D1 AA Deco Company products from around the world. AA Interiors provides high-quality 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 Saigon Spa fabrication and fit-out services for 5413 6638 Recommended inexpensive spa hotels, residences, spas, and so on treatments with a full spa menu. throughout the city. 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In this relaxing, peaceful 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 InterContinental Asiana Saigon cushions. atmosphere, guests can enjoy a full Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 158 Hai Ba Trung, D1 range of massage/treatment options. 3520 9999 Kim Do Hotel, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 [email protected] Catherine Denoual 8am – 9:30pm Supplies blankets, pillows, mattresses, Huong Sen Spa tablecloths, cushions, and other luxury Located in a charming old French villa, The Body Shop linens to reputable hotels, spas, resorts, Huong Sen Spa is a natural green oasis A global manufacturer and retailer of and individual consumers. with skin, face, and body treatment naturally-inspired, ethically-produced 15C Thi Sach, D1 services. beauty and cosmetics products. 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Equipped with a café, from top brands such as Dermalogica www.gomo.com.vn Indochine spa provides your senses with nail bar, 2 VIP rooms, and a spacious and Lab Series. Equipped with natural energy. Indulge yourself for a massage room - this boutique salon is imported machines from Europe. Lam Bui Natural Home Goods unique and amazing experience. like no other in Ho Chi Minh City. The spa has five therapy services, Founded in 2004 by a team of 69 Thu Khoa Huan st., D. 1, HCM Garden Plaza 2 Complex including basic skin care, professional intrepid entrepreneurs, Lam Bui 3827 7188 8 Tôn Dât Tiên, Quân 7 skin care, intensive therapy, eye Natural Home Goods is a large, [email protected] 5412 4773 therapy, body therapy – and a Prime well-stocked home goods store with www.indochine-spa.com.vn special service package. specialty old-style furnishings and Open: 10:00-22:00 192 Le Lai, D1 decor items. MiMi Clinic & Spa Unit 16-17, 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Jasmine Spa Prestige Spa for celebrities holding Tri Siam Le Loi, D1 Experienced staff utilize exotic frequent beauty events – and therefore Well-respected salon on the edge of 3914 3553 skincare products to comfort guests one of the best-known local brands in town, offering manicures & styling. in this cozy urban sanctuary, which medical aesthetics for over 10 years in 76C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Mosaique Decoration has has a large, loyal following HCMC. Mosaique Decoration takes all the that swears by its friendly and 32 Dong Khoi, D1 Xuan Spa unique beauty and craftsmanship of professional service. 090 387 6666 One of the most luxurious spas in Ho Vietnam and adapts it to contemporary 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Chi Minh City, Xuan is located inside home décor. Mosaique offers unique Miu Miu the five-star Park Hyatt hotel. Services lighting design, decorative embroidery, Spa with an elegant and charming include packages such as Urban Retreat silk quilts, and other home accessories. décor, offering facials, body Package, Apricot blossom – Mai, Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, massages, and manicures. Pervaded Bamboo, and more. 65 Le Loi, D1 by exotic oils and aromas, the staff 2 Lam Son Square, D1 provide counsel on unique skin-care Premium Housewares products from Thailand and around Yuri Providing high quality kitchenware and the world in English, Vietnamese, A full-range Korean beauty salon in the accessories, Premium Housewares and Japanese. Lotte complex, with a chief focus on presents its products in more than 70 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 beautiful hair styling. countries worldwide. 6659 3609 3rd floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu 77 Pasteur, D1 Kyoto Spa & Hair Salon Tho, D7 Body massage Moc Huong Spa 3775 2990; 093 481 8085 Red Door Décor Foot massage Moc Huong Spa Hair cut women and men A well-known furniture store in Ho Chi is supported Yves Rocher Botanical Beauty Spa Minh City offering products such as 32 Dong Du, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 by top-ranking A famous international botanical (Spa & Hair Salon) interior/exterior decorations, artwork, professional cosmetic brand with a full range of 8A/4D1 Thai Van Lung, physiotherapists handicrafts, glass ceramics, garments, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 (Spa) products, The Botanical Beauty Spa and textile materials. who combine Eastern with Western Center combines the expertise of its 0902 983 089 techniques resulting a full body 31A Le Thanh Ton, D1 [email protected] beauticians with the efficacy of Yves
wellness. Reasonably priced with a te x pats www.spakyotohcmc.com.vn wide range of services that include Rocher treatments. Vscential A manicure, pedicure, facial, both body 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Vscential sells aromatic French lavender and for your complete well being. bouquets, fresh flowers, silk flowers, and Korean Style Sauna 9C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Zest Massage handmade flowers. With 45 different Sauna and massage that serves mostly 3911 7118 Famous for its fish pedicures, Zest, types of essential oils available, there’s a Japanese and Korean men - some of located in the outer western region scent for everyone. the more discerning expat clients. For a Oasis Salon & Spa of District One, serves up some fairly Vscential delicate touch. The original Oasis spa & beauty salon, dynamic Thai massage. 238B Pasteur, D3 60 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 15 Thai Van Lung, D1 this venue offers a full range of services www.vscential.com ©2014 C opyright L istings
88 BIMAGEusiness BY adam robert young & Tech
89 CHARITY FEATURE Children of the Dragon From a long career in the military to a second calling as a philanthropist, meet the founder of Les Enfants du Dragon Text by NPD Khanh Images by Charline Saudemon
Meet the children of the dragon. and numerous fundraisers, the association became the first kings of Vietnam,” They may not be offspring of real dragons tries to support in all aspects. It has built Marc explains of the meaning behind but their parents are fully intent on making houses, bridges, ensured clean water supply the name. “These very same kings laid sure their kids inherit the spirit and to poor localities, provided scholarships the foundation of ancient Vietnam as a greatness of this mythological creature. The and bicycles, opened free English and country and people and their names are children’s ‘parents’ are Marc de Muynck French courses for children, supported still honored to this day.” and Dr. Buy Huy Lan, a dentist based in teacher training projects, supplied walking France, founders of the NGO Les Enfants sticks for the elderly, entertained sick Paid in Smiles and Tears du Dragon. children and organized camping trips for Marc visited Vietnam for the first time in Officially created in 2009 as a French orphans. Instead of narrowing it to just 2001. He was 51 then and had just retired NGO under the charter and full patronage one focus and limiting its own members, it from a long military career. He was on a of both the Vietnamese government acts as a branch connecting various partner mission, albeit of a different sort than the and the French consulate, Les Enfants organizations and through its many ones he used to carry out, bearing charity du Dragon aims to help those in need programs aims to channel its reach to make gifts from France to an orphanage in Sa through various humanitarian projects and the most impact. Dec, located in the Mekong Delta. partners. Unlike other NGOs of the same “The name came from the myth of how “There are problems here the likes of size and scope, Les Enfants du Dragon does Vietnam was created, it told that the which I was not aware of back home. not specialize in any specific area. With founding father, who was a dragon, and Poverty. Illiteracy. Children without 11 core members, a dozen volunteers, the the founding mother, a fairy, together had parents. People that need help,” he says support of local governments, other NGOs, a hundred children and these children of his first impressions. Despite that,
90 there was something about the rough, dusty Southeast Asian country that stuck with him, a “certain good feeling that is somehow unique and enduring”. The feeling endured and was the main drive to "People can only feel true happiness create Les Enfants du Dragon. “After that first three month holiday when they help those who aren’t as in Vietnam, I went back home and joined an NGO called Volunteers of the World. I fortunate in life as they are, when did many projects with them and helped many people in Rangoon and Mandalay, people bring joy to children whose Myanmar. I started running with many other NGOs and humanitarian projects. For parents are no longer there” many years I worked with Maison Chance, Karuna, and Coup de Pouce Humanitaire. I helped all kinds of people, from orphaned children to homeless vagabonds, to people ridden with diseases whose cures they Perhaps I want to repay the world for what projects eventually laid the foundation couldn’t afford,” says Marc. “Eventually I’ve taken from it. Perhaps I want to deny for the birth of Les Enfants du Dragon in though, I became… dissatisfied. I did my past self. Either way, in my opinion, 2009. Since then, it hasn’t been a smooth not really find my place. Very often, a people can only feel true happiness when road, but it has been one that is infinitely volunteer is only a pawn which is given a they help those who aren’t as fortunate fulfilling in ways that matter the most. specific task and is involved little or not at in life as they are, when people bring joy “None of us volunteers get paid in any all in the projects or the decision-making.” to children whose parents are no longer way of course except in smiles… and He had two choices - one was to quit there.” sometimes in tears too,” says Marc. “We volunteering altogether, the other to find a In 2007, after cancer surgery, he returned have a good team now. Good morale and way to help people the best he could and in to Vietnam, got in contact with the many partnership. We are doing good work and a way that he wanted. Marc’s decision was friends he had made during his first trip we will continue to do even more good clear: “I can’t imagine my life as a retiree in and started various projects from helping work to people who need us most. We laziness or in third age leisure clubs. People upgrade a nursery in his residential started because there was poverty and would often ask me, how do I go from neighborhood in Ho Chi Minh City which suffering in the world. We won’t stop until being a lifelong dedicated military man to was often flooded during torrential rains, they disappear.” a lifelong dedicated humanitarian? I have to building houses for poor people in the For more info, visit www. only one answer to that. To forgive myself. southern province of Dong Nai. These lesenfantsdudragon.com
91 LEGAL EASE legal Column
Dear Hadrien,
I’ve been living in HCMC for nearly four months now. Last week, I finally bought a motorbike to travel to work, but (and I am a bit ashamed to tell you, and please don’t tell my mum!) I have already
been involved in a traffic accident. As I was only A member of the Paris Bar, Hadrien Wolff has been practicing law in Vietnam for more than seven years, partially at fault, and no one was badly injured, I currently as a partner of Audier & Partners based at its HCMC office. Having gained extensive legal experience just apologized, picked up my motorbike and drove in the Netherlands and Cambodia, Marijn Sprokkereef is an associate at the Hanoi office of the same firm.Audier off. Later on, my friend warned me that I could have & Partners is an international law firm with presence in Vietnam, Myanmar and Mongolia, providing advice to been in a lot of trouble if the police had been at the foreign investors on a broad range of legal issues scene. I realize this is probably true, so what can I do in order to avoid potential liability if something like this happens again? confirming that you paid your vehicle registration and a document that proves the origin of the vehicle. I agree this process is quite burdensome so you may want to consider either asking a trusted Vietnamese friend to help you or you can simply buy a second-hand motorbike. One way to limit negative consequences in case you ever become involved in a traffic accident again is to make sure that you are properly insured. Under Vietnamese law, motor vehicle owners are required to purchase insurance for civil liability, which covers loss of property, physical injury and death of third parties caused by your vehicle. If you become involved in a road accident, please keep in mind that you are required to promptly inform the nearest police station, as well as your insurance company. Furthermore, you should realize that driving without a valid driver’s license may be a reason for your insurance company not to cover any damage caused by the accident. An accident is unfortunately following documents: a vehicle registration Returning to the Law on Road Traffic, something that many of us already have document, a category A1 or A2 driver’s I assume you already know that drivers or may experience at some point in the license and a civil liability insurance as well as passengers on motorbikes future while living in Vietnam. Your friend certificate. The Law on Road Traffic states must wear a helmet. But did you also was entirely right when he told you that that all those directly involved in a traffic know that drivers are not allowed to an accident like yours may have negative accident must immediately stop their drive on sidewalks (even in HCMC!) consequences. In order to avoid, or at least vehicles, keep the conditions at the site of and that they are not allowed to use an to mitigate those consequences, it is good the accident unchanged and, except for umbrella, a mobile phone or an audio to know something about your rights some emergency situations, remain at the device while driving? And your only and especially your obligations under scene until the arrival of the police. legal excuse to carry more than one Vietnamese law as a driver. It’s good to know that if you consider person on your motorbike would be A good starting point for that is the purchasing a new motorbike, under that you are carrying someone who Law on Road Traffic, which describes the Vietnamese law you are, in principle, is sick and needs emergency medical hundreds of traffic rules for vehicles and required to register it with a local traffic treatment, that you are escorting their operators participating in road traffic police division. As a foreigner, you need somebody who has committed an illegal in Vietnam. This law makes it clear, for to fill out a vehicle registration form and act or that you are carrying a child example, that in order to drive a “standard” produce a valid identification document, under the age of 14. So keep that in motorbike with a capacity of 50 cm3 a residence card with a term of one year mind and drive safely! or more, you need to be at least 18 and or more, your work permit (if applicable), Every month, Hadrien and Marijn physically fit, and you must have a proper a so-called letter of introduction from a answer legal questions from Oi readers. and valid driver’s license. competent Vietnamese organization or If you have any legal questions you When driving around on your motorbike agency and vehicle papers, which includes want answered, send them to legal@ in the streets, you will need to carry the a vehicle transfer deed, a document oivietnam.com.
92 FOUND 404 TechNOLOGY Column
Silicon Valley Vietnam Overseas Vietnamese should be investing in Anh-Minh Do is the editor at TechInAsia.com for Vietnam focusing on technology startups, trends and tech startups, not just sending remittances companies. Minh also organizes events at Evecoo.vn
the mobile payment industry. Trung is not the only Viet Kieu that has had success in The Valley. Recently, Klout was acquired for over USD200 million, its cofounder is Binh Tran – a Viet Kieu. There’s also Misfit Wearables, lead by founder Sonny Vu, who does most of the design and engineering for its wearable devices in Vietnam. Sonny shows that you can manage a team in two countries successfully, taking advantage of the labor and skills in Vietnam while leveraging Silicon Valley connections over in the US. The list goes on. What’s the motivation for Viet Kieus to get involved in Vietnam? It’s because the engineering talent is leveling up and the local market is also waking up. Vietnam’s software industry was worth over USD2 billion in 2012. That number is largely influenced by major outsourcing companies. In addition, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are developing a strong middle class population. By 2020, Vietnam’s middle class will double to 33 million people. On top of this, it is arguable that Vietnam is one of the ideal jumping off points to attack markets across Southeast Asia. Both Thailand and Singapore are a bit too advanced for In 2013, Overseas Vietnamese (or clear that the Vietnamese community the rest of the market, while Indonesia Viet Kieus) remitted an estimated overseas has done well and the biggest and the Philippines have infrastructural USD11 billion into Vietnam. In 2013, connector is their deep ties to Silicon issues – but Vietnam sits in between Vietnam’s GDP was USD170 billion. Valley - 13 percent of Silicon Valley’s these worlds. The key is thatViet Kieus That’s right;Viet Kieus send back so Asian engineers are Vietnamese. Asian will have an easier time adapting and much money that it’s equal to about engineers, in total, account for 11 percent connecting to the Vietnamese people six percent of Vietnam’s overall GDP. of The Valley’s total engineer population. in their motherland. Yes, there are legal And although Vietnam’s GDP is still Although that’s small compared to the barriers, but they can be overcome. growing by roughly five percent per Chinese and Indian populations (Chinese Of course, there is red tape and lots of year, USD11 billion is still huge. Some account for 51 percent and 23 percent are headaches connected to investing in of this money should be intelligently Indian), the phenomenon has had subtle Vietnam. But the fact is if you really going to Vietnam’s entrepreneurs. And effects on the startup ecosystem back in want something, you can make it it is. Right now, there are over 3600 Vietnam. happen. People like Trung Dung and businesses in this country that are Trung Dung, the cofounder of companies like OneCapitalWay, which owned by Viet Kieus, with a total capital OnDisplay, sold his company for just is funded mainly by Viet Kieus living of over USD8.6 billion. For perspective, under USD2 billion. Trung went to the in The Valley, are examples. There the total annual income of Viet Kieus is US from Vietnam at the age of 17 with are even things like the Silicon Valley estimated to be USD50 billion. Only a only two dollars in hand and after a project, lead by the Ministry of Science small percentage of that USD8.6 billion successful career as an entrepreneur in and Technology, that want to make this is going into technology. Viet Kieus are the States, he has returned to Vietnam easier too. The resources are now in now a seminal part of Silicon Valley. It’s to start Mobivi. It’s a startup that tackles place. The people are ready. Are you?
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Contact: Kate Tu 091 800 7160 l 08 3943 4223
95 The List Business & Tech China Consulate Myanmar Consulate and global personal accident. banks 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 50 Sam Son, Tan Binh 21st Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 3829 5009 5449 2425 Asia Commercial Bank www.vn.china-embassy.org/eng/ www.gmas.com.vn AIG Vietnam 442 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Mon-Fri: 8.30am - 11am Mon-Fri: 9am - 12pm; 2pm - 5pm; Sat: 9am AIG’s presence in Vietnam dates 39290999 - 12pm back to the 1920s, although modern China Consulate - Commercial Office operations began back in 2005. They Bank of China 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 New Zealand Consulate offer a wide range of personal and 19th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 3823 1142 235 Dong Khoi, D1 commercial insurance products. 3821 9949 [email protected] 3822 6907 9th Floor, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 www.hochiminh.mofcom.gov.cn Mon - Fri: 8.30am - 11.30am; 1.00pm - Citibank 5.00pm Baoviet Insurance Corporation 15/F Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Cuba Consulate BaoViet is now the leading financial 3824 2267 45 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Nordcham insurance group in Vietnam with more 094 801 6318 3829 7350 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen than 145 branches across 63 provinces. Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am; 1.30pm - 4.30pm Hue, D1 23-25 Thai Van Lung, D1 Commonwealth Bank 3821 5423 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Denmark Consulate www.nordcham.com BHNT Great Eastern 3824 1525 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Life assurance & financial plans for customers of various age groups. The 012 1861 8695 3821 9373 Norway Consulate Mon-Thu: 8.30am - 4.30pm; Fri: 8.30am 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 company’s focus is on promoting - 3pm 3822 1696 health and longevity - they have the HSBC perfect incentive to do so, really. Metropolitan Bulding, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 [email protected] Level 8, 25 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3724 7247 Finland Consulate Mon – Fri: 08.30am - 11.30am; 1.30pm - Room 501, 5/F Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, D1 4.30pm 3827 2029 Blue Cross Mizuho Corporate Bank Blue Cross Vietnam is a Medical 18th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Panama Consulate Insurance Administrator specializing in 3827 8260 France Consulate 7A Le Thanh Ton, D1 27 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3825 0334 Health and Travel insurance in Asia.Our 3520 6819 [email protected] competitive advantage is in our design Standard Chartered Bank www.consulfrance-hcm.org and administration of modern travel and Saigon Trade Center 1st Floor, 37 Ton Duc medical insurance plans; plans built for Thang, D1 Hon. Consulate of Portugal Germany Consulate people living and working in Vietnam. 3911 0000 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach 126 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 3820 0623 Level 8, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, 3829 2455 D1. 3821 9908 Shinhan Vietnam www.ho-chi-minh-stadt.diplo.de 100 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am; 1.30pm - 4.30pm Russia Consulate 3829 1581 40 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 IGlobal Assist Offers insurance programs offered by Hungary Consulate Consulate-General of The Republic of ACE, Liberty, Seven Corners and other Vietcombank 22 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 global insurers. Free consultation and 2bis-4-6 Le Thanh Ton, D1 3829 0130 Singapore 8th floor, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 custom quotes for most lines of insurance 3824 4797 including health, travel, home, auto, www.vietcombank.com.vn 3822 5174 Iceland Consulate www.mfa.gov.sg motorbike, property, liability, and personal 80 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 accident. concierge Mon-Fri: 9am - 5pm Slovakia Consulate www.iglobalassist.com 64-68 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Consulate General of India IF Consulting Giup.me (help.me) 55 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 IF Consulting has for 20 years provided A local concierge service fluent in English, 3823 7050 South Korea Consulate 107 Nguyen Du, D1 advice to individuals and businesses in Vietnamese and Mandarin to assist in www.india-consulate.org.vn 3822 5757 assessing health/accident risk and finding all your personal needs from finding an Mon-Fri: 8.30am - 12.30pm, 1 pm - 5pm Mon-Fri: 9am - 12pm; 1.30pm - 5pm the best suitable solution. The company is apartment, domestic help and schools, independent and Vietnam-based. to setting up a local company, renewing Indonesia Consulate IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, visas, car services and arranging medical/ 18 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Sweden Consulate 8A/11 Thai Van Lung, D1 D1 legal services. They charge a flat rate 3825 1888 3823 6800 www.insuranceinvietnam.com VND175,000 per hour. Mon-Fri: 8am - 12pm; 2pm - 5pm Mon–Fri: 8am - 12pm; 1.30pm - 4.30pm 7300 4487 (7300 GIUP) Liberty Mutual Insurance [email protected] Italy Consulate Liberty Mutual is a 100% US-owned 81 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Switzerland Consulate www.giup.me general insurer licensed to provide 08 6258 6473 42 Giang Van Minh, D2 insurance services directly to Mon-Fri: 8am - 12pm; 1pm - 4pm 3744 6996 consulates Vietnamese individuals and state- Japanese Consulate Thailand Consulate owned enterprises as well as motor 261 Dien Bien Phu, D3 77 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 insurance. Australian Consulate-General 08 3933 3520 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le 47 Ly Tu Trong, D1 8.30am - 11.30am; 1.15pm - 4.45pm The Czech Republic Consulate Duan, D1. 3812 5125 3521 8100 28 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Mon-Fri: 8.30am - 12pm; 1pm - 5pm Kuwait Consulate LIG Insurance 24 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 The UK Consulate The company provides property Belgium Consulate 3827 0555 25 Le Duan, D1 and casualty insurance, along with 105 Duong Van An, D2 [email protected] 3829 8433 customer relations management and 6281 8001 Mon-Fri: 9am - 4pm automobile claims support services and 9am - 11.30am on Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri U.S. Consulate General Ho Chi Minh long-term insurance to individuals and Laos Consulate City corporations. Cambodia Consulate 93 Pasteur, D1 34 Le Duan, D1 Unit 809, 8th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 41 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 3829 7667 3520 4610 3821 9968 3829 2751 Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am; 1pm - 4.30pm Mon-Fri: 7.30am - 11.30am; 2pm - 5pm Ukraine Consulate McLarens Young International
22-24 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 McLarens Young International is a te x pats
Malaysia Consulate A Consulate General of Canada 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 global claims service provider that helps 10th floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong 3829 9023 our clients achieve timely and equitable Khoi, D1 [email protected] insurance claims resolution. 3827 9899 Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am 9th Floor, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Mon-Thu: 8.30am - 4.30pm ACE Life Insurance Minh Khai, D1. 3821 3316 Mexico Consulate One of the world’s largest multiline Chile Consulate 215 A-B Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan property and casualty insurers, Prudential Vietnam 79/1/1 Phan Ke Binh, D1 3844 5520 insurance products include universal Prudential Vietnam is one of the
3910 2903 Mon-Fri: 8am - 3pm life insurance, term life, whole life, riders, leading life insurers nationwide, also ©2014 C opyright L istings
96 providing a variety of financial solutions, Unit 704, 7th Floor, Sunwah Tower, 115 Logical Moves is all about quality with over 200 customer service centers, Nguyen Hue, D1. 3821 4432 relocation service, best prices and well-arranged branch offices and general agency and time. They have moved offices and business partner offices. Phuoc & Partners Company AGS Four Winds (Vietnam) household goods for many well-known Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Phuoc & Partners is an independent Global leader in international removals international companies in Vietnam. Thang, D1 law and consulting firm with integrated & relocations, with 128 offices in 78 3941 5322 legal and tax practices. The firm enables countries, they can move you to/or www.logicalmoves.net 3910 1660 information technology clients to reduce their administrative from any location worldwide. overhead and focus on core business 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Santa Fe Relocation Service Khac Khoan, D1 Asia Pacific Solutions activities. Door to door relocation service which Room 1602, Level 16, Centec Tower, 35210071 promises to take the stress out of A software development and IT support [email protected] 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 moving personal possessions from one service company, services include www.agsfourwinds.com developing all kinds of engineering city - or country - to another. Also offers systems and implementing software PricewaterhouseCoopers pet relocations, records management, solutions. PwC boasts a thorough understanding Allied Pickfords home search and immigration help. One of the largest and most respected www.santaferelo.com Suite 1201, 12th Floor, 111A Pasteur, D1 of the transitional economy of Vietnam providers of moving services worldwide, 3825 1041 [email protected] and a wide knowledge of policies AP assumes complete responsibility and procedures covering investment, Oracle Vietnam for all moving services through a single tax and accounting, and consulting point of contact. shipping Oracle offers an optimized and fully throughout the country. integrated stack of business hardware District 1. 0122 5141 848 4th Floor Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 and software systems, lowering the cost HL Shipping and complexity of IT implementation Asian Tigers A worldwide freight forwarder offering and management. Pan-Asian moving firm with a perhaps dedicated, integral services in the Suite 25 & 26, Sunwah Tower, 115 Nguyen real estate agencies unrivalled level of experience and international trade market providing Hue, D1 expertise in packing, storing and a reliable, customer-oriented, and Colliers International Vietnam moving a family’s treasured belongings cost-effective coverage of all shipping Prism Smart IT Globally, Colliers International is a throughout this region and beyond. needs, including a comprehensive Prism is a foreign-owned Information leading commercial real estate services 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, assessment of all costs and 9 Doan Van Bo, D4. 3826 7799 and Communications Technology company offering comprehensive assurance of on-time delivery for company that offers IT Managed expertise to investors, owners and each segment. Competent service in Services and Total Business Solutions tenants around the world. Crown Line English direct from the MD Jeff Tran. to companies throughout Vietnam. Crown Line is a well-known Japanese Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 29 Huynh Van Banh, Ward 17, Phu Nhuan 4th Floor, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi moving firm now operating out of Ho Nguyen Hue, D1. 3823 3529 3995 6117 Minh Khai, D1 Chi Minh City. Cushman & Wakefield Vietnam 60 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 Logitem Viet Nam finances Their primary focus is on consultancy, JVK International Movers Warehousing, shipping and brokerage, and investment across the Focused primarily on the international transportation, 100% Japanese owned. SCS Vietnam retail, office, and hospitality sectors. and local movement of household 23 Tran Nao, Binh An, D2 SCS is an accounting firm providing Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, goods since 1979, JVK has established 3744 2281 corporate establishment, accounting and D1. 6291 4707 itself as a leader in this unique taxation services in Vietnam. “We're here transportation field. Sagawa Express Vietnam A subsidiary of Sagawa Holdings to help”. House Link 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen House Link offers a wide array of Tat Thanh, D4. 3826 7655 Group, this firm specialises in Level 6, 193 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1, HCM City, providing solutions to general Viet Nam apartments and houses for lease all over Ho Chi Minh City. Logical Moves logistics issues in Vietnam, and it has 3820 2595 a general logistics certificate unique in [email protected] 23 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 They offer your belongings the best protection available with the latest this country. www.scs-vietnam.com 3824 5271 technology, experienced staff and 169 Dien Bien Phu, Ward 15, Binh Thanh Total Wealth Management Realty World equipment. With door to door services, 3840 9330 A team of experts available to offer Focuses on real estate business, advice and options on how to manage consulting, managing, and marketing. your wealth. Currently they specialize in apartments, 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach office buildings, and villas. 3820 0623 111 Nguyen Huu Canh, Ward 22, Binh [email protected] Thanh. 3899 4979 law firms Savills Savills PLC is a global real estate Apex Law services provider listed on the London The Apex management system Stock Exchange. represents a creative edge in meeting the Avalon building, 53 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, evolving legal landscape in this country. D1. 3825 8598 Unit 4A2, 4F Nam Han Office Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1. 3822 2942 The Nest The Nest is a customer-dedicated Baker & McKenzie property company focusing on leasing Baker & McKenzie is a law company luxurious properties in Saigon. French- with over 72 branches around the world, Vietnamese managed with over four including offices in Australia, China, years of property experience. Vietnam, Indonesia, Canada, and the 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, D9 United States. Has a team of 4000 highly trained and insightful lawyers. 34th Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, D1 recruiters JP Law Firm Opus Recruitment J&P Law is a full-service law firm Opus group was originally a unit under providing the highest quality legal KPMG Thailand that defected to run services to both international and independently, focusing on quality domestic clients, and its widely- executive searches. recognized practice areas include 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Corporate, M&A and Finance. Khanh, Tan Dinh, D1 Level 7 - Room 702, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Navigos Group & Vietnam Works Logos Law Firm Navigos Group provides recruitment Logos HCMC Office offers comprehensive legal services in a solutions in Vietnam. Services include wide range of subject areas for foreign VietnamWorks (which posts about 200 investors in Vietnam through highly new jobs per day) and Navigos Search qualified lawyers licensed in Korea, (the leading recruitment firm in Vietnam). te x pats Vietnam, and the United States. 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 A Unit 2002B, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Odgers Berndtson Vietnam 3822 7161 A global firm specializing in the recruitment of senior level executives, Nishimura & Asahi the firm employs experienced Nishimura & Asahi is one of Japan’™s professionals from specific market premier full-service law firms, covering areas to provide discreet access to all aspects of domestic and international industry leaders. business and corporate activity.
©2014 C opyright L istings Suite 1609, 1st Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1
97 Faces & Places
Meandering Through the City Color Me Run Hue Festival A recent exhibition that presented the A five km run that takes off with a The festival showcased art innovative urban policies of Ho Chi Minh colorful explosion. Color bombs, color performances representing different City and Lyon through their large urban cannons, and color mortars blasted sub-cultures and ancient capital cities projects, urban management of public runners along the route. At the end in Vietnam, with an emphasis on Hue spaces, mobility, and the role of nature in of the rainbow was a huge music royal court music and folk songs. the city. With over 300 pictures, display festival with Kelly Rowlands (formerly There were also fashion shows and art panels, videos, 3D animations and touch- of Destiny's Child) and Timomatic (of performances by art troupes from 20 screens, the exhibition offered a chance to Australia's Got Talent) headlining. countries at venues inside the Citadel, rediscover these two metropolises through An Dinh Palace and outdoor stages their major modern challenges. around the city.
IMAGEs bY ngoc tran IMAGEs bY ADAM robert YOUNG IMAGEs bY Doan Quang 99