FOOTWEARNEWS.COM / OCTOBER 12, 2015 / @FOOTWEARNEWS

WORKBOOT ISSUE

OH, BUY THE WAY Infl uential retailers reveal Europe’s hottest fi nds HUNDRED PROOF Where the king of ultra running plans to go next MISSION READY How Rocky Brands helps the military prep for action

Spring’s newest workboots are made to last with sleek fi nishes. Here, GOODYEAR builds a hiker high-top hybrid TOUGHthat’s up for any job. LOVES Pause Causefor the

Align with FN’s Special Issue: QVC presents FFANY On Sale Bonus Distribution: QVC presents FFANY Shoes On Sale Event Issue Date 10.19

A PORTION OF ADVERTISING PROCEEDS GO TO QVC/FFANY SHOES ON SALE TO SUPPORT THE FIGHT AGAINST BREAST CANCER

THE POWER OF CONTENT FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected] PHOTO: BRIAN KLUTCH 16 textile shaft pull-on workboot with JOHN DEERE Photographed by BrianKlutch COVERON THE ’s waterproof

22 Girl Power MARKETPLACE 11 Top 20 9 FEATURES What’s Trending Atwood’s 8 Next Steps 7 FN Spy 5 Best Buys INSIDER 34 Truth Be Told FN 32 PICK Making Tracks 29 Good Taste Pack aPunch 28 24 Inspiration Point 23 Five Questions 16 expansion he’s eyeing for hismainline. on hisplansfor BBrian Atwood andthe have incommon withtools? A lot. casts andPhilKnight’s upcoming memoir. weighs inoncatering to thearmedforces Salt Lake City trail runners moving maker HighSierra’s debutoutdoor shoes Roger Vivier heelswhiletalking “Truth.” sweet jambands andkillerburgers workboots are now madefor her what clicked for theminEurope. workboots astrong foundation.

shoes inSeason 4of “The MindyProject.” Iron Man FN ranks thebest of Paris. An insidelookatthestarring Sleek silhouettes give spring Top retailers sound offon Thanks to Moxie Trades, Karl Meltzer talks epicruns, Cate Blanchettrocks A first lookatbackpack Find outwhichgear gets Rocky’s militaryexpert Holiday sales fore- What doStanley The designer . . . . . 3 4 1-5 7 6 there would benomore swoosh logos onhisfeet. now amember of team Adidas, thebrand madeextra sure territory andshow theworld thattheNBA superstar is there was interest inone man: James Harden. To markits Far removed from ourcoverage of the designer shows, SHOESOF TOHARDEN JAMES ADIDAS DELIVERS TRUCKLOADS fall bootsuggestions. world, guys looked to FN—andparticularly enjoyed our who’s to blamethem? To prove theirplace inthefootwear collections heading down theinternational runways. And Clearly, theboys were feeling left outwithallthewomen’s MEN’S BOOTS FOR FALL winners: Chanel, Balmain, Saint Laurent, DiorandChloé. with theParis shows dominatingalltop five stories. The spring ’16 shoes. You appreciated theonlinedisplay, handling weather delays —allto bringreaders thebest navigating traffic, dealing withlanguage barriers and FN editors spentthemonthglobe-trotting around Europe, RUNWAY COLLECTIONS PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING’16 The most-read articles andblogposts on Footwearnews.com from Oct. 1-Oct. 7. TRAFFIC REPORT Michael Atmore Janet Menaker Samantha Conti George Chinsee Christian Allaire Barbara Schneider-Levy Sheena Butler-Young Luisa Zargani

Sumana Ghosh-Witherspoon Mosha Lundström Halbert Amber Mundinger FAIRCHILD MEDIA AND FN ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED Ellen Dealy Anna-Lisa Yabsley Marjorie Thomas Rachael Allen Tricia VanGessel Peter Verry Michael Atmore Annie Belfield Margaret Sutherlin DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES Randi Segal Emanuela Altimani Amelia Ewert Mary Ann Bacher Ann Mary Ron Wilson Lauren Busch Erin E. Clack Neil Weilheimer Cass Spencer Kristen Henning Senior Director, DigitalMarketing &Strategic Development Katie Abel John Cross Editorial Director of FN&Director of Brand Development Nikara Johns Cassie Leventhal Elizabeth Slott Giulia Squeri Peggy Pyle Tamra Febesh Sandi Mines Suzanne Berardi , Christina Mastroianni Kim Mancuso Providence Rao , Jennie Bell Nina Jones Michelle Raskin Shannon Nobles Emily Taylor , David Lee Chin Eileen Tsuji Michele Loffman Steve Eichner Gomatie Sanichar Assistant Fashion Editor, High-End Men’s Alessandra Turra Lauren Schor Kevin Hurley Devon Beemer Alexis Coyle Amy Keiser Irene Park Ash Barhamand Gina Stillman Alex Sharfman FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC A.L. Davies BY PENSKEMEDIA CORPORATION Erica Coren Vice President &Senior Executive Director PREPRESS PRODUCTION President & Vice Chairman AUDIENCE MARKETING Athletic &Outdoor Editor SUMMITS &EVENTS CORRESPONDENTS Senior Associate Editor, Business Global News Director Associate WebProducer Director, European Operations Stephanie George Senior Director, Institutional Sales Planning&Operations Director PHOTOGRAPHY Sales Coordinator (Los Angeles) Consumer Marketing Director Contributing Editor, Children’s Director, Experiential Marketing ADVERTISING Senior Editor, Men’s &Comfort PRODUCTION Vice President, New Ventures &GM Online ManagingEditor Editorial Assistant AssociateManagerMarketing FNEditorial Director Features Editor European Account Director Vice President &Publisher London European Sales Representative Bookings &Production Editor Creative Director, Marketing Photo StudioManager Copy Editor Senior Marketing Manager Photo Studio Assistant Design Director ManagingEditor Women’sEditor Director, Sponsorship Executive Editorial Director Digital Sales Planner Director,Sales Attendee Contributing Editor Production Director AssociateEditor AssociatePublisher , AccountManager Senior Sales Coordinator Digital MediaStrategist Production Manager Prepress Assembly West Director Coast AccountManager Thomas Iannaccone Senior Online Manager Finance Director

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PHOTOS: RUNWAY: REX SHUTTERSTOCK; HARDEN: ADIDAS INSIDER

A frenetic fashion month has come to an end. Here’s an inside look at top retailers’ favorite Best Buys brands and must-have trends from Europe. By Katie Abel PHOTO: GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO:

Models on the runway at Valentino, which earned raves from buyers. 5 ne month. Thousands of shoes. ALBERTO OLIVEROS 2. Pierre Hardy. “I always appreciate his As Paris Fashion Week wrapped up last week, buy- Head of buying, Level Shoe District whimsical, artistic take on accessories, and this season was no different. The Shades ers were busy digesting the collections they saw across TOP COLLECTIONS O were especially clever, with PVC inserts Europe. Most were upbeat on spring ’16 offerings and 1. Francesco Russo. “One of this season’s in bold primary colors that felt like real pop art predict the season ahead will be a strong one. “We’re highlights. His delicate sandals with leaf details come to life.” in neutral colors were extraordinary. We are excited that was a highlight on the runways for spring,” 3. Valentino. “There was great range of tribal- especially excited for his Level Shoe District said Scott Meden, EVP and DMM of Nordstrom’s shoe division. inspired sandals that were so delicate and exclusive bridal styles.” “The amount of novelty and fashion, balanced with a strong range refined — absolutely perfect from morning to 2. Gianvito Rossi. “Superb. We are obsessed dressed-up evenings.” of casual lifestyle silhouettes, will inspire our customers.” with his knitted peep-toe booties and boots. “It was a great season for shoes, added Laure Heriard Dubreuil, They are absolutely stunning, sexy and MUST-HAVE TREND founder and CEO of The Webster. “There was a strong variety of definitely a must-have.” “Flats. There were so many incredibly chic flats styles that looked not only incredibly chic and beautiful, but also 3. Tabitha Simmons. “We love how she played on the runways.” comfortable and easy to incorporate into your existing wardrobe.” with raffia and embroidery this season, adding a bohemian feel with beautiful floral details.” ERIN CERRATO “Spring offered a fresh and relaxed perspective — along with the 4. Aquazzura. “Edgardo Osorio’s global nomad- Divisional VP of accessories, Holt Renfrew introduction of some new materials,” offered Alberto Oliveros, head inspired collection was stunning and playful. TOP COLLECTIONS of buying at Level Shoe District. His sandals with pom-poms and chunky stone- 1. Gucci An overwhelming favorite on the runway was Valentino’s tribal embellished heels were standout.” 2. Valentino 5. collection, while Gianvito Rossi continued to excite buyers with his Pierre Hardy. “He has a way of making styles 3. Gianvito Rossi. “His metallic palette and elegant collection’s refreshing newness. What else will rule the sell- unique by combining unexpected materials. His fresh interpretation of the rounded toe were cage sandals in vibrant pop colors will be a hit. ing floor come spring? Read on. standouts.” Leave it to Mr. Hardy to create a hybrid of the and sneaker, the Basketdrille.” MUST-HAVE TRENDS ; ankle-tie details; mules and ; while preserving and refreshing the core styles RUNWAY HITS Azzedine Alaïa, Gucci lower-height block heels; the rounded toe. just enough. This season’s frayed-denim looks NAMES TO WATCH NAME TO WATCH and round-toe pumps will be big hits.” Gianvito Malone Souliers, Serena Uziyel, Giannico Francesco Russo. “His collection was beautiful, Rossi’s NAMES TO WATCH round-toe with fine craftsmanship and impeccable design.” Olgana. “We like her romantic approach to IDA PETERSSON pump evening and cocktail-shoe dressing.” Senior footwear buyer, Net-a-Porter THALIA TSEREVEGOU MUST-HAVE TRENDS TOP COLLECTIONS Buyer, women’s designer footwear, “Natural textures (raffia, jute, linen, denim); 1. Gucci. “It was incredible. Alessandro’s new Hudson’s Bay mixed textures; the round toe reemerging take on heritage is raising the bar and creating TOP COLLECTIONS after years of pointed-toe, single-sole styles new trends.” 1. Chloé dominating.” 2. Aquazzura. “This collection just continues to 2. Dries Van Noten impress. One of the most comprehensive 3. Gianvito Rossi SCOTT MEDEN ranges I’ve seen for the season and a great 4. Tabitha Simmons EVP and DMM, shoe division, Nordstrom balance of fashion and core styles.” KEN DOWNING MUST-HAVE TRENDS 3. Dolce & Gabbana. “The runway featured an SVP and fashion director, Neiman Marcus TOP COLLECTIONS (in no particular order) “The concept of comfort evolved from literal explosion of pom-poms and colors. Seeing the TOP COLLECTIONS Gucci, Chloé, Stella McCartney, Chanel, to more sophisticated. Designers embraced range up close made me fall in love with the 1. Dior. “I love the pointed toe with the wide Valentino, Christian Louboutin variety, from platforms and flatforms to chunky collection even more.” ankle strap, especially in white patent.” MUST-HAVE TRENDS heels, and flat sandals.” 2. Gianvito Rossi. “Elegance with an edge.” Textured or embellished white; silver; LAURE HERIARD DUBREUIL NAMES TO WATCH 3. Valentino. “The tribal tie-up sandals are the return of hardware; caged silhouettes; Founder and owner, The Webster Miami Malone Souliers, Alexander White superlative.” flatforms; slides; tribal touches. TOP COLLECTIONS CLOSING THOUGHTS MUST-HAVE TRENDS 1. Louis Vuitton. “I loved the utilitarian platform “Power players such as Nicholas Kirkwood and Kitten heels; the emerging square toe; Lucite, ANA MARIA PIMENTEL creeper sandals, as well the loafer Paul Andrew introduced their iconic styles in Perspex and silver Fashion director, women’s accessories, and laceup brogues. It was a stellar collection a variety of heel heights to cater to a broader Bergdorf Goodman for both RTW and accessories.” audience, a proven growth strategy in luxury.” TOMOKO OGURA MUST-HAVE TRENDS Senior fashion director, Barneys New York “It’s a season of decorative detail. Embellish- Aquazzura TOP COLLECTIONS ments, brocades, jewels, beads and whimsical feathered 1. Valentino. “Maria and Pierpaolo create extras adorn shoes with a look-at-me attitude. sandals inspired collections with a thoughtful story It’s about making a statement. Highlights in mind. This season, the tribal influences included pearl and snake details at Gucci, tribal seamlessly and beautifully translated into all references at Valentino and Isabel Marant, categories, including shoes, where the Italian ready-to-dance pom-poms at Aquazzura and craftsmanship and artisanal quality of the rich brocades at Dries Van Noten. collection stood out.” The is a great item and a wonderful 2. Céline. “Each season, Phoebe Philo delivers addition to casual dressing. Gucci’s horsebit something new, but so easily integrated into slide was a favorite on the runway and with one’s wardrobe. We particularly loved the red bloggers and front-row fashion enthusiasts. leather and black-rubber sole pull-on ankle Easy slip-on-and-go versions in rich leathers and her latest rendition of the espadrille, and suedes looked great at Gianvito Rossi, a closed-toe slingback.” Pierre Hardy and Prada. 3. Gianvito Rossi. “I’m in awe of his ability Kitten heels made an appearance on the to constantly evolve as a designer. He has a runways, and it’s a trend we can see translating nonstop drive to add newness to his collections to pre-fall collections. PHOTOS: AQUAZZURA: XAVIER GRANET; ROSSI: COURTESY OF BRAND BRAND OF COURTESY ROSSI: GRANET; XAVIER AQUAZZURA: PHOTOS:

6 INSIDER Aquazzura opened its London boutique on Albemarle Street last month. Flip Out Bigger is often better. But not if you’re Caitlyn Jenner looking for that Cinderella fit in footwear. However, help is on the way for the star of the reality TV series “I Am Cait,” who wears a women’s size 13. Liam Bourke, VP of multi- Bob Campbell and media sales at comfort brand Donald Wilborn Vionic , spotted Jenner wearing Vionic’s iconic Wave flip-flop while getting her Mindy Kaling on makeup done in one episode. the Season 4 set The brand jumped at the Boca Nights chance to accessorize Jenner, Industry insiders and footwear reaching out to her team with friends recently packed their an offer to custom-make a bags and headed to Boca pair of the more feminine Raton, Fla., to toast 40 years rhinestone-trimmed Tide of BBC International. The style. “Comfort’s an aspira- setting? The Boca Raton tion everyone has,” said Resort & Beach Club, where Lisa Bazinet, VP of marketing Bob Campbell was joined by for Vionic, about the brand’s wife, Barbara, son Seth and newest fan. CFO Donald Wilborn. BBC COO Josue Solano introduced a company gift to Bob and Don by saying, “What do you get the men who can buy themselves anything? An experience.” With that, a flamboyantly dressed performance artist appeared, Mindy alternating between break- dancing and spray-painting Moments a custom art piece. “The Mindy Project” has a new home on @zendaya Instagram Hulu, and costume designer Salvador Perez is sharing the star’s fiercest footwear @caitlynjenner in Vionic scenes from Season 4. New Duo Favorite shoe moments? “In the season premiere, I dressed Mindy in a wonderful black, white and It’s an odd-couple moment. orange outfit and beautiful black suede Alexander McQueen high-heeled Teva and Swarovski have sandals with brass trim. They were so diva. We also have a pair of bright teamed up for a shoe kit with pink patent vinyl Jimmy Choos that we use often because they go with so crystals. With the help of DIY many outfits.” blogger Erica Chan Coffman of How has the footwear evolved? HonestlyWTF.com, the brand “In the first season, Mindy was concerned about comfort, so we used a lot of is offering a do-it-yourself Ferragamo pumps, but now she’s all about the look, so a pointy-toe stiletto package, including Spotted ... is our shoe of choice, in bold, bright colors.” Swarovski elements and Zendaya stepped out during Coffman’s design inspira- Mindy is a mother now. Will her shoe closet change? Paris Fashion Week, making a tions, for the Flatform or “Not at all. Mindy’s ‘mom look’ is ultra-fashionista — no comfy flats for statement in Giuseppe Zanotti Original Teva styles. this mom.” heels. The star (and newly “Coffman had a blank Does Mindy Kaling’s personal collection ever make it to set? minted shoe designer) canvas — she chose all the “Mindy has an enviable shoe closet, so every now and then, when we are Instagrammed her gold materials,” said Teva looking for something spectacular, she will bring in something from her metallic Zanotti pumps. marketing manager collection. Kurt Geiger is a favorite.” Lucas Martinez. The kits hit Nord- Any behind-the-scenes moments to share? “We always send Mindy to set in a pair of Skechers; then her costumer strom.com By Kristen Henning switches out her shoes before she goes to camera. It helps when you are and Teva’s With contributions shooting for 12 hours.” site starting from Barbara Schneider-Levy Nov. 2. and Anna-Lisa Yabsley PHOTOS: KALING: COURTESY OF HULU; JENNER, ZENDAYA: COURTESY OF INSTAGRAM; TEVA: COURTESY OF BRAND; CAMPBELL: CREATIVE FOCUS FOCUS CREATIVE CAMPBELL: BRAND; OF COURTESY TEVA: INSTAGRAM; OF COURTESY ZENDAYA: JENNER, HULU; OF KALING: COURTESY PHOTOS:

The custom art piece gifted to Campbell and Wilborn featured BBC’s iconic LA Gear light-up kicks. INSIDER 7 Atwood Reveals Next Steps

On the heels of a new retail deal, the designer eyes expansion. An image from the B Brian Atwood By Katie Abel holiday campaign

rian Atwood’s schedule over the past become a major branding tool for the designer, who few weeks has gone something like has been the visible face of his namesake brand this: The designer held court at his since he launched it 14 years ago. While Atwood B Mexican-inspired spring ’16 presenta- relishes the opportunity to have that instant online tion in Milan on Sept. 24, and a connection with his customers, he has been hatch- few days later, he was off to Istanbul for a store ing big plans for offline, too. appearance (and a bit of sightseeing, of course). Since teaming with Steve Madden in Then Atwood hit Rome and headed back to Milan a joint venture about 18 months ago, before returning to his other hometown, New York. the designer has overhauled the Atwood’s jet-setting lifestyle is well-documented strategy for his B Brian Atwood on his popular Instagram account, which has about collection, which will be stocked Mexican mask- 460,000 followers. The social-media platform has exclusively at Hudson’s Bay and inspired sandals Lord & Taylor stores starting from Atwood’s with the holiday season. And spring ’16 collection he’s eyeing category expansion, wider distribution and an huge as we want it to be. I’m e-commerce push for his name- thinking about new categories sake line. — anything that would make Here, Atwood talks to Footwear sense — like fragrance, sunglasses, News about his future goals and the men’s. We want to open shop-in-shops increasingly crowded and competitive at key retailers around the world. designer shoe market. There are so many shoe designers now, so you have to be more strategic with your growth. When You’ve just revealed your exclusive deal with I launched in 2001, Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor for your secondary and Christian Louboutin were the three major line, B Brian Atwood. What was appealing about names. I was immediately thrown into that halo that partnership? arena. Now, so many people have fallen in love with BA: With Steve Madden, we’d been pondering shoes and started their own lines. the question of who would make a great partner. Lord & Taylor has been undergoing tremendous What would a Brian Atwood men’s collection change, and their consumer understands my look like? product very well. My designer line has been BA: I see it as a very tight capsule of about 10 to 15 with Hudson’s Bay, and they have the best clients styles. Color is so important to me, and the quality in Canada. These retailers can showcase the brand has to be exceptional. I like classics with a twist. in the right way. They’re so excited about having Men shop differently than women. The majority B Brian Atwood, and they’ve given us space and don’t buy 10 pairs of shoes at once, though they’ve put marketing behind it. recently began taking more risks with their choices. I see myself doing that, and it’s what makes it so The price points for BBA are a bit lower than they exciting to get into this. Louis Leeman makes were when the line was under The Jones Group. amazing shoes — they have a touch of personality Why the shift in pricing strategy? and offer something different. I love my Saint BA: I always thought B Brian Atwood was too Laurent boots, and I just got some amazing Fendi close to designer price points — I thought it should . I also made a pair of bright, gorgeous be at least 20 or 30 percent less expensive. (BBA’s turquoise crocodile-skin loafers for myself. I’m so shoe and handbag prices are now $170 to $295.) glad men’s shoes are taking off. At the same time, we didn’t want to jeopardize the quality we’ve had in the past. It took us a bit of You briefly had a store on Madison Avenue, but time to get the quality to where we wanted it, but that closed when Jones Group shuttered. Do you we’ve learned a lot and now have a rhythm going. plan to get back into retail? BA: A brick-and-mortar store is important for Let’s talk about your namesake collection. every designer. In addition to New York, I’m After 14 years, are you satisfied with your place interested in Los Angeles and the design district in the market? in Miami. Globally, Paris and the Middle East are BA: I’ve long looked at it as being kind of protected exciting. We’re also working on our website to make and not being everywhere. We’ve had steady it much more interactive, and to have things you

growth, but part of me says this brand can be as can’t get elsewhere. MADDEN STEVE OF COURTESY CAMPAIGN: ATWOOD B BRIAN GIULIO DI MAURO; SANDALS: MEXICAN ATWOOD, PHOTOS: Atwood at his Milan presentation

8 INSIDER WHAT’S TRENDING INSTAGRAMS QUOTES OF THE WEEK OF THE WEEK The 5 most-liked photos Overheard in the industry from @FootwearNews

A New Orleans mall

“[I have] 300 to 400 pairs. Listen, 1 Jimmy, I could be “We’re bringing Paris home with Giannico’s Ladurée-inspired heels.” addicted to a lot of other things — I’ll take sneakers.” — Victor Cruz debuting his Nike signature sneaker on the “The Tonight Show Starring Will Holiday Spark Sales? Jimmy Fallon” Halloween isn’t even here yet, but retailers are already hauling out TOP the Christmas lights. The National Retail Federation’s newly 2 STORY released annual forecast projects sales growth of 3.7 percent this “Go graphic or go home at Nicholas year, to $630.7 billion. The industry group also expects retailers to Kirkwood. #pfw” hire 700,000 to 750,000 seasonal workers. Perhaps most important, the NRF is predicting that online sales will increase 6 percent to 8 percent, topping as much as $105 billion. “Price, value and even timing will all play a role in how, when, where and why people shop over the holiday season,” said “Kids in China have NRF President and CEO Matthew Shay. There are potential hiccups for the no clue that kids get season, though: A government shutdown in December, stagnant wage killed for Jordans. growth and a slower job market could inhibit shoppers. In 2014, holiday Either he will retail sales grew 4.1 percent over the previous year. change it, or the

3 people will speak.” Knight An American Apparel “First Look: @tabithasimmons spring — Stephon Marbury to store collection with feminine touches.” Michael Jordan on Twitter

Nike’s Knight to Retail Bankruptcies 4 “Breakout trend for spring: the raffia “It took me being Release Memoir Ignite Concern sneaker at Robert Clergerie.” Kanye West to get Phil Knight may be preparing to ease It was a tough week for retailers last this far in fashion. I into a less intensive role at Nike, but that week with the announcement of two was able to become doesn’t mean he’s slowing down. The major bankruptcies: City Sports and a multimillionaire chairman and founder of the athletic American Apparel. The long-struggling giant announced that he’s releasing his American Apparel has wrestled with and invest in memoir next spring under the Scribner waning shopper interest, while City myself because no Publishing imprint of Simon & Schuster. Sports has lost market share in a one else would have The book will focus on Nike’s early days competitive sporting-goods landscape in a million years.” and his development as an entre preneur that is dominated by big chains. It’s a and businessman. He’s expected to step trend many expect to continue as more 5 — Kanye West during a two-hour down as chairman of the board next year. companies seek connection with “Adding a little sparkle at interview with Show Studio @giambattistapr. #pfw” Instagram PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES IMAGES GETTY PHOTOS: CEO Mark Parker will replace him. price-sensitive and digital shoppers.

INSIDER 9 POWER100 FAMED & FEARLESS

ISSUE October 26 / CLOSE October 15

THE POWER OF CONTENT

FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected] INSTA-SHOE STYLES FROM THE SPRING ’16 COLLECTIONS 1 Miu Miu After few footwear triumphs in Paris, along came Miu Miu, direct from Milan, furthering the argument that when it comes to the most wholly original eye- candy accessories, France’s rival fashion nation is currently doing it better — and having more fun in the process. For Miuccia Prada,

NDS that meant an all-star Women’s lineup of zigzag kinky boots and deranged ballet flats that were madcap-meets- must-have, ending the Top season on a high note. 20 PARIS PHOTOS: REX SHUTTERSTOCK, GETTY IMAGES, STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DELPHINE ACHARD, DOMINIQUE MAITRE, COURTESY OF BRA OF COURTESY MAITRE, DOMINIQUE ACHARD, DELPHINE GIANNONI, GIOVANNI FEUGERE, STEPHANE IMAGES, GETTY SHUTTERSTOCK, REX PHOTOS: 3 4

Saint Dries Van Laurent Noten Psychedelic prints Maison Lesage gave curvy sandals Atelier embroidery and notched wedges a elevated the mesmerizing approach humble English to sandal and countryside Wellie accessorizing. Just to a new level of mix and clash. festival couture. They were the most-talked-about boots of the season.

5

Louis 2 Vuitton While a bevy of options were sent Chanel down Nicholas “Complimentary peanuts or Ghesquiere’s quilted bag?” Karl Lagerfeld’s runway, some felt airport-inspired collection derivative this included a comfy travel sandal season. Whip- with light-up nailhead details stitched loafers, fit for emergency exits. however, were more sure-footed.

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Christian Dior Block-heel mules had more of a gamine insolence than Raf Simons’ usual boundary- 7 pushing beat. While D rings and pulled patent were novel, they didn’t provide an über- Alexander memorable footwear moment. McQueen Sarah Burton referenced the iconic shoe 6 shapes of her late mentor brilliantly in Valentino a with Tri-strap flat decorative sandals stood soles. out in geometric prints — a style inspired by traditional African tribal motifs, but not too blatantly so. 11

Balenciaga Alexander Wang’s final outing featured white lace flats that mimicked those found in Chinatown. They also underscored the burgeoning trend of luxe house . 9 10 Celine Usually the benchmark Giambattista collection of Paris, Phoebe Valli Philo took a break from Just when the bending the rules this gladiator was feeling season. That being said, #tired, Valli gave nailhead boots were timely the style a new lease with a Wild West flavor. on life via ladder- strapping and a glittered sole. 13 Rochas 14 12 A Venetian masquerade ball for the feet — Alessandro Dell ‘Acqua again showed his prowess with statement Sacai Esteban Cortázar shoes, even those of the more dainty In an act of More Swarovski crystal was more on and delicate variety. lightbulb styling, encrusted galactic mules that gave designer Chitose off an otherworldly air. Abe’s Western redeux boots were paired with fishnet sockettes.

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Carven Balmain Marbleized Quite like acrylic heels Olivier gave buckled Rousteing’s sandals an objet clothing, air, while a bondage lug sole ensured stilettos had a confident twisted suede stomp. and silk ribbon strapping for a new take on 19 20 soft versus 17 18 struggle. Elie Saab Roland Loewe Sonia You ready? Exploring less Mouret Rykiel The Noughties OTT glam Wovens were Julie de Libran (that’s the ’00s) territory, a big trend for again worked are back. essential the season, and with Robert Jonathan gladiators and nowhere were Clergerie on Anderson block heels they employed kicky sandals in fearlessly went were a cool as strongly as animal prints and there with long- counterpart on fit-master metallics that last square-toe to seductive Mouret’s complemented boots on quirky dresses. catwalk. the maison’s kitten heels. perma-’70s mood.

13 Roger Vivier Creative Director Bruno Frisoni revived fl ower power for spring. Mod prints were added to new Sneaky Viv slip-on sneakers, a house fi rst, and fi nished with an oversized crystal buckle for a glitzy remix.

Nicholas Kirkwood Presentation marked his brand’s 10th anniversary this season. For spring, he found a balance between his adventurous and practical sides, elevating black cutout sandals and Report graphic boots with newly strong and chic proportions. Footwear brands unveil their spring ’16 collections in Paris. The through line? Playful details and forward-thinking craftsmanship. By Mosha Lundström Halbert and Christian Allaire

Hermès designer Pierre Hardy has been withSergio the house Rossi for over designer 25 years Angelo and continuesRuggeri teamed to quietly with innovate, Bianca showingBrando- two- tonelini d’Addasuede flto atforms create with escapist fl oral shoes, appliqués. from animal kingdom-embroidered platforms to ’70s disco stilettos wit. PHOTOS: XAVIER GRANET, DOMINIQUE MAITRE, COURTESY OF BRANDS OF COURTESY MAITRE, DOMINIQUE GRANET, XAVIER PHOTOS:

14 Chloé used twisted and knotted leathers on its block-heel mule sandals, off ered in an interwoven Robert Clergerie celebrated its factory’s rainbow of colors that had a childlike innocence. 120-year anniversary with a superb platform done in an unexpected red raffi a.

Alexandre Birman updated his signature Clarita sandal with new treatments, including multicolored exotics. Elsewhere in the collection, the designer focused on single-sole silhouettes and using Swarovski stone embellishments for the fi rst time.

Aperlaï designer Alessandra Lanvin Rupert Sanderson added a touch of nautical experimented with shiny materials on new inspiration to blue canvas pumps, which featured espadrille-style slides. A bonbon wrapper- barrel-lacing and roped tassels fi t for sea. braided sole? Delicious indeed.

Pierre Hardy elevated the classic espadrille with a sneaker sole, punchy polka-dot Aquazzura designer Edgardo Osorio Francesco Russo played with prints and ribbon wrap-tying. He calls the presented a “global nomad” collection this fresh footwear techniques this spring. creations “basketdrilles.” We call them cool. season, resulting in an eclectic assortment Braided-leather sandals were curved in of statement heels, from feathered sandals form — and required some 15 prototypes Mary Katrantzou continued her fruitful col- to raffi a pompom-adorned stilettos. to perfect. laborations with Gianvito Rossi, teaming up on fl oral- print buckled boots with intersecting metal heels.

Longchamp Creative Director Sophie Delafontaine had metropolitan-minded shoes on the brain, which equaled chic pointy-toe fl ats in spring’s essential pale pink.

Olganna Paris played with feminine draping Tabitha Simmons looked to her British sensibility — particularly English Laurence Dacade aimed for retro appeal techniques on its peep-toe ankle bootie. gardens — for her latest collection. Embroidered fl owers on jute were done in a variety of with playful travel-sticker decals applied to leather silhouettes, and she also showed her saucier side via lingerie-lace pumps. in a new clog-like sandal shape. Iron Man

TIMBERLAND PRO waterproof Crosscut logger boot with Vibram outsole DR. MARTENS UTILITY Rivet ST leather with moisture-wicking lining, WOLVERINE Edge LX waterproof boot with lightweight CarbonMAX safety toe

Spring work boots nail it with durable fabrications and streamlined silhouettes. Photographed by Brian Klutch

Fashion Editor: Christian Allaire Market Editor: Barbara Schneider-Levy 17 1

1. JUSTIN ORIGINAL Commander EX 5 pull-on with exclusive lightweight Vibram outsole 2. DANNER IronSoft electrical-hazard waterproof boot with molded footbed 3. CARHARTT Force pull-on with Ariaprene breathable foam collar and tongue 4. ARIAT waterproof Mastergrip boot with heavy-duty, slip-resistant Duratread outsole 5. DICKIES Stryker mid-cut boot with waterproof membrane and rubber toe bumper 6. KEEN UTILITY Mt. Vernon outdoor-inspired style with rubber electrical-hazard outsole

5

6

18 2

3

4

19 FOR THE FANATICS & FULL-FLEDGED

NOVEMBER 9 SNEAKER JUNKIES OCTOBER 29 SNEAKERHEADISSUE ISSUE

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FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected] PHOTO: GEORGE CHINSEE The Chromatic shoealso comes equippedwith acomposite toeandan EVA-and-rubber outsole. detailed with VisiFlash material ontheupperto reflect lightfor safety indimlylitconditions. OF THE WEEK SHOE Front Runner millennials,” said CatMarketing Manager Courtney Frank, adding thattheshoeis spring ’16 embraces theathleticmarket. “We know how important sneakers are to With anodto thesneaker generation, CatFootwear’s Chromatic work style for MARKETPLACE 21 Moxie Trades’ moto-inspired Vegas, a black hiker that’s been Amelia workboot Moxie’s No. 1 seller for six years. For spring ’16, McTasney is taking a chance with a multicolor tie-dye shoe inspired by the neon palette of today’s athletic sneakers. Over the past four years, Moxie Trades has seen its Canadian sales rise 20 percent year-over-year, in spite of the fact that its target mar- ket isn’t growing. McTasney said the number of women in the trades hasn’t changed significantly in recent years. “It sur- prises me, since there are so many [Canadian] government initiatives promoting the skilled trades for young people, as well as for women,” she said. “There are a few of us behind the scenes trying to deter- mine what these factors are.” McTasney aims to champion women in blue-collar roles by pro- moting them via marketing initia- tives such as her new 2016 Moxie Trades calendar, which features that U.S. sales could eventually be real-life women. Each month, the 10 times those of her home country. calendar will highlight a different McTasney is well aware that she’s charity, cause or association that will not the only one vying for sales to receive a $250 donation. Girl Power female workers. ”My competition is The calendar will also support everyone in the safety-shoe industry, the “Got Moxie Challenge,” which Women’s workboot brand Moxie Trades with a lot of great companies doing kicked off on Oct. 11, the United men’s. [However], what I’m Nations’ International Day of adds a touch of pink to blue-collar jobs. doing is creating a solu- the Girl Child. By Barbara Schneider-Levy tion for women.” The initiative invites To appeal to them, girls to share their McTasney has made stories in an arissa McTasney has person who needs a pair of shoes style a priority. essay or a video built a business on [she can] work in safely and also feel “I go to Europe explaining why they thinking pink. good about.” and China and look have moxie, or to M The founder and Today, the London, Ontario- at materials, textures submit a photo of co-owner of women’s based brand is sold at 500 retailers — anything that trans- themselves holding workboot maker Moxie Trades is on across North America, with the U.S. lates into a safety shoe,” an “I Got Moxie” a mission to promote women in the accounting for 20 percent of sales. she said. “My inspiration McTasney sign. The brand skilled trades by providing them with McTasney estimates that revenues for comes from fashion and not hopes to receive 1,000 essays the right safety gear. 2015 will reach $3 million. the competition.” and 10,000 photos (to create the Her crusade started while “Over the last several years, While the Betsey boot remains world’s largest online photo album). McTasney was on maternity leave I’ve been trying to learn the U.S. the brand’s most well-known style, If those goals are reached, Moxie and found herself craving a job that business, which has different specifi- it has been outpaced by more tradi- Trades will create a foundation to would allow her more time with her cations and certifications than Can- tional looks, such as the lightweight, provide grants to women entering family. She ended up ditching her ada’s,” she said. McTasney estimates waterproof Alice in tan; and the nontraditional work roles. job at IBM to enroll in a program for women in construction that was sponsored by the Ontario Women’s Directorate. Her goal was to create What Retailers Think a construction company that em- WORK AUTHORITY merchants want a product Trades every year, and while we CENTRAL SAFETY SUPPLY ployed women. Cambridge, Ontario they can sell lots of. With wom- still have the pink style, for us, it’s Elmyra, N.Y. After hunting for a pair of work- “[Moxie Trades] has been a en’s being much smaller [than not what represents the brand.” Co-owner Sean Burdick added boots, McTasney quickly noticed that steady business,” said Peter men’s], they don’t want to be He added that women are as the brand in August, in response there was a void in the market for O’Donnell, director of purchasing. bothered with it.” drawn to Moxie for its styling as to requests from female staffers women’s-specific styles. In 2006, she He said the women’s workboot its performance features, which who also work in Burdick’s road- created the Betsy, Moxie Trades’ now- category makes up about 10 per- WORKING PERSON’S STORE include puncture-proof outsoles construction business. “There signature pink boot. cent to 15 percent of the store’s South Bend, Ind. — a Canadian Standards Associa- are a lot of women who now do “I’m the [target] consumer,” said footwear sales — and gives him President Eric Deniger said, tion certification not typically construction work, but there isn’t “We’ve had increases with Moxie McTasney. “I try to think about that a competitive advantage. “Mass found on U.S.-based brands. a lot of [product] for them.” BRAND OF COURTESY PHOTOS:

22 MARKETPLACE WORKBOOTS McTasney met business partner W. Brett Wilson on an episode of “Dragon’s Den.” PHOTOS: DEAN, BOOT: COURTESY OF ROCKY; AFGHANISTAN: GETTY IMAGES product geared to thespecial-operations took notice andstarted to develop top-shelf to buytheirown shoes. Footwear companies wear increased assoldiers began to beable the demandfor [higher-performance] foot- or green jungle boots andoff When Ijoinedin1987, you were issued black changed since you entered theservice? How have themilitary’s requirements 1 By Barbara Schneider-Levy footwear needsof thearmedforces. Rocky Brands onaddressing the commercial military sales at The retired Army majorand VP of MARK DEAN you went. But the U.S. andthe Association of National Guard by attending events for the We start atthegrassroots [level] this consumergroup? How does Rocky advertise to 3 takes onaperformance edge. today, thesoldiers are like athletes, andgear pounds. Ifyou lookatSpecialOperations weight isalso [important]—ounces equal depend oninadeployed scenario. The Afghanistan. They needabootthey can in 18hours you’ll beonyour way to Iraq or day you’re atFort Bragg andget acall that can perform inmultipleenvironments. One Soldiers are lookingfor something that lookforWhat doservicemen inshoes? 2 they also could benefit from. stream service realized thiswas something hiking boot. [Eventually], those inthemain- their missions, they wanted a[higher-end] community. As theNavy Seals geared upfor military boot military Rocky’s S2V 5 QUESTIONS such as we advertise inmilitary service magazines to review theirproduct off [invite] personnel from various military posts also host theirown events, where they so peoplecan trythem. Some of ourretailers Association of theU.S. Army andbringboots but they’re savvier buyers since The audience isallover theboard, consumer today? they now have theabilityto do Who is the typical military Who isthetypical military women are notafraid to pay a research online. Regardless of the 4 demographic, servicemen and Army Times . erings. Inaddition, We thentake thatfeedback very seriously. drainage andhow theoutsole performs. a jungleenvironment andtest for water to bemet, andwe askthemto wear itin boot —withperformance criteria thatneed soldiers are given aboot—suchasjungle with new product [for testing]. For instance, and my sales team, whogo outto units It’s often donethrough companies like ADS indevelopingmilitary product? How closely does Rocky work with the 5 [quickly] roll outthedoor. important footwear isshouldthey needto decade of conflict, they realize how little extra for quality. As we come off On theground in Afghanistan a Spring ’16 steel-toe electrical-hazard boot

INSPIRATION POINT “My vision [for Stanley footwear] is to make the workboot category close to the lifestyle- Bruce Jalabert footwear category.” A toolbox is a treasure trove of design ideas for the guy building Stanley’s footwear. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

hen Bruce Jalabert was exploring ideas for workboots under the Stanley label, he headed to Home Depot, where he immediately noticed the brand’s iconic color W scheme. “When someone opens their toolbox and sees a yellow screwdriver, they know it’s a Stanley,” said the head of product development, who incorporated the signature color into the branded shoe collection. The line, which INA International produces for Stanley Black & Decker Inc., is distributed through GVS America. Jalabert continued the brand palette by adding a pop of red at the eyelets and on the shoelace tips in spring ’16 looks that range from skate-style sneakers to steel-toe hikers. “The boots aren’t just for guys on an oil rig, but also for those working in their garage on Sunday. I created something more casual, but with safety features,” said Jalabert. Comfort was also a priority: The midsoles and footbeds feature Stanley’s Anti-Vibe technology, which is used in hammer handles to minimize impact. Underneath it all, Jalabert adapted the classic hexagonal shape of a bolt for the tread pattern on the outsoles. PHOTOS: JALABERT, BOOT, HAMMER: COURTESY OF STANLEY; OIL RIG, BOLTS: SHUTTERSTOCK; GARAGE WORK: GETTY IMAGES GETTY WORK: GARAGE SHUTTERSTOCK; BOLTS: RIG, OIL STANLEY; OF HAMMER: COURTESY BOOT, JALABERT, PHOTOS:

24 MARKETPLACE WORKBOOTS Stanley plans to move into the women’s work-footwear market for fall ’16. PHOTO: COURTESY OF BRAND from thebottom ofthe soleto pattern thatpushesliquidsaway patented micro-channeltread from arubbercompoundwith surfaces. andslick onwet enhanced security lifestyle looksfeaturing everyday based RheaFootwear, whichoffers John Angeles- launchedLos Lee So infall’14, heandfellowstudent typical ofthearea’s harshwinters. streets andicy tackle theslippery of fashionablefootwear thatcould upstate New York, Ahn noticedalack Stick ToIt The shoes’outsolesaremade The F By Barbara Schneider-Levy the bar onsafety withslip-resistant footwear. Rhea co-founder Paul Ahn isoutto raise Cornell University in invention. is trulythemotherof or Paul Ahn,necessity While astudentat day,” saidAhn,who’s onacrusade no regulationforslipresistanceto- standard forslipresistance.“There’s working toestablishanindustrywide organization that,alongwithRhea,is Institute,Floor Safety anonprofit bytheNational tion israted“high” footwear. increatingRhea’sexpertise anti-slip Ahn wasabletotapintothefactory’s turer inthefamily’s native Korea, so prices range from$50to$150. a slip-onandchukkaboot.Retail Forfor fall’15. men,there’s asandal, sandals, plusabootieintroduced tion consistsofaslip-onstyle and provide moresole-to-floorcontact. He saidthecollection’s .6fric- Ahn’s fatherisashoemanufac- Rhea’s women’s footwear collec- talks withaCanadiandistributorare by Zulilly.com Ahnsaid forspring’15. own site,thebrand waspicked up $70,000. In additiontosellingonits on Kickstarter, whichraised nearly Ahn’s family, followedbytwo rounds brand with$50,000infundingfrom and industrialwear. foreveryday to improveshoesafety The entrepreneurslaunchedthe The and slips.” the elderly, whoare[prone]tofalls we’re lookingat for thenichemarket bars,” Ahnsaid.“And[employees of] “We’ve alreadysoldsomeshoesto duty andotherpossiblecategories. theindustrial-safety,are eyeing nowestablished,thepartners market also underway. With Rhea’s placeinthelifestyle Rhea’s classic men’s chukka Alegria’s puzzle-inspired pastel look

Classic clog from Sanita with prism eff ects

Groovy fl oral clog from Lila on a faux-wooden bottom

Klogs’ glossy fl oral-and-leopard style

SPRING TREND Sowing Patterns Spring Footwear’s paint-splatter The duty-shoe market cultivates style on black canvas excitement with brightly colored prints on slip-resistant clogs.

Dansko’s multicolor-striped

patent shoe BRANDS OF COURTESY OTHERS: ALL EICHNER; STEVE GIANNONI; KLOGS: CHANEL: GIOVANNI PHOTOS:

26 MARKETPLACE DUTY On model: Chanel went with head-to-toe prints at its spring ’16 runway show. PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS Dickies shoespoweredbyMichelin ofslip-resistant collection spring ’16 withMichelinis partnering fora Co., basedinCambridge, Ontario, Williamson-Dickies Manufacturing Burning Rubber Duty Launches Workboot & Michelin outsoles Dickies shoes with BUZZ design, development design, development licensee forthe as theworldwide based VJ International tire gianttappedItaly- Technical Soles.The Wildland boot Danner’s Wildland Tactical Firefi launchofthe with thespring’16 tackling thefi Portland, Ore.-based Danneris Blaze Control required bytheNational FirePro- Alpine hiker withthehighstandards domesticallymadestyle blends The tection Association. Itfeatures fi Association. tection ofan the lightweightandsupport resistant rough-outleather anda breathable mesh lining, with breathable meshlining, retail for $75 starting inJanuary. for$75starting retail styles formenandwomenthat will hospitality Itincludesthree markets. and totheservice uppers, istargeted also featuresspill-resistantleather which collection, midsoles. The moisture-wicking liningsandEVA Inside,liquid evacuation. thereare with deepgroovesthat improve design formaximumtraction, outsole features ahigh-edge tread City Pro motorbike tire.The outsole inspiredbytheMichelin ofahigh-traction and production a VibramS587 outsolethat refi provides oil-andslip- ghter market resistant traction resistant traction high-angle terrain. and over rugged ghter boot. re-

$156. Delivery isslated forDecember.$156. Delivery lookspricedat $142with tactical to from$130to$145,work shoesretail The protection. electrical-hazard rubber bottoms, compositetoesand featuressafety includeslip-resistant stability andmotioncontrol.Special EVA footbedforenhanced cushioned also useReebok’s FootFuel injected- shoes under harshconditions.The return shock andprovidesenergy zigzag foammidsolethat absorbs fi byReebok Developed spring ’16. ZigTech intothelinefor technology brand’sincorporate theathletic footwear, andtactical safety will licensee forReebokindustrial- Warson Brands,theSt.Louis-based Local Produce tness experts, ZigTechtness experts, hasaunique work style A Reebok in January. for$370,thebootdelivers Retailing 28 as] hikingandclimbinginthemountains.” good forcasualFridaysThey’re atwork,[aswell durable andaff sales atHigh SierraFootwear. adventures,” saidRoyShuman,VPofbranded offootwearlifestyle forallkindsof collection from thebrand. KNOWN FOR: Samsonite International acquired High Sierra shoesare]fullyfunctional, He added,“[The “We’ve designedafeature-rich, versatile MARKETPLACE O FIRST LOOK Backpacks &luggage to tacklethewildernessinshoes alsobeable they’ll in spring’16, Sierra backpackssince1978.Starting mountains andtrails totingHigh utdoor enthusiastshave trekked ordable, with distinctive detailing. detailing. ordable, withdistinctive High Sierra SHOE PRICES: OUTDOOR Pack aPunch $39to $69 High Sierra isready to tryits luckinfootwear. After makingits nameinthebag business, BUILT FOR: collection next spring. spring. next collection andwillreleaseitsfi domestically forfall’15 additionstoroundoutthe portfolio.”perfect International] forsocksandfootwear, whichare apparel in2015 andsignedalicense[withACI formiddleAmerica.Wevalue story launched rightnowforaquality-huge spaceinthemarket Dawn Sicco,VPandGMofHigh Sierra.“There’s a permission toplay withitinothercategories,” said itsdistribution intheU.S.,beyond andtherewas itsrosterofproducts. expanding in July 2012 for$110million,withtheintentionof The line, which is manufactured in China, inChina, line,whichismanufactured The footwear brandlaunched afew stylesThe “We saw togrowthebrand theopportunity Men andwomen By Peter Verry High Sierra willexpand its footwear linefor fall ’16 withcold-weather styles. rst full Mount Ritter andMammoth styles. Mount the low-cut and themid-cut Brewer tohave presence: astrongretail are expected hikers formenandwomen shoes. Three casual slip-onsandtrekkingbackpacking includes approachshoes,trail runners,sandals, exceptional qualityexceptional atagreat value.” money-conscious,” lookingfor Siccosaid.“They’re and outdoors,whoare time-starved looking toget commitmentsofarcomingfromDSW.biggest Authority andCabela’s,Sports withthebrand’s national chainssuchasDick’s Goods, Sporting aswellmajor via outdoorspecialty retailers, High Sierra aimstodistributeitsfi “[We’re middleAmericanfamilies targeting] Debuting for spring’16: , alow-cut a mesh-covered hiker, amid-cut casual laceup boot anda rst collection

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRAND PHOTOS: MELTZER: COURTESY OF HOKA ONE ONE; FOWLER: GETTY IMAGES; DEAD SYMBOL: COURTESY OF BAND; ALL OTHERS: SHUTTERSTOCK PLAYLIST: WHAT’S ONMY BACKYARD: WHAT’S INMY In 2010, Meltzer ran the2,064-mile Pony Express trail. TO SKI: FAVORITE RESORTS Johnny Cash.” I mixitupwith Strange Folk,Phish. Salmon, RustedRoot, Dead, music: “Jam-band kindof every twodays.” I mowmylawnlike and aputtinggreen. “A 100 daysayear.” in Utah.Iusedtoski “ Snowbird andAlta croquetcourt Leftover Grateful

By Nikara Johns One One athlete iseyeing the Appalachian Trail. After acingthe100-mile record, theHoka Karl Meltzer 100-mile win record and I did. Then itwaslike, ‘What’s winrecordandIdid.Then 100-mile next?’” Appalachian Trail. “It’s level,” thenext hesaid.“Itriedtobreakthe goal:the2,000-mile needthosefeatures ashetackleshisnext He’ll just therightamountofrockplate. isfarsuperior.” Andthetraction made forme,” saidMeltzer. “Ithasjusttherightamountofcushion, the bigCadillacride.My favorite style nowistheSpeedgoat, whichwas [Hoka]“When fi acquired Hoka in2012, thelabel’s progresshasbeenexponential. with thebrand, in2008.He pointedoutthat sinceDeckers Brands with Hoka. Meltzer, akatheSpeedgoat, wasthefi in arow. He creditssomeofthat successtohislongtime partnership trail-race wins—37andhaswonat leastoneraceayearfor15years 47-year-old Meltzer ownstherecordformost100-mile currently butthat doesn’tmeanhe’sfrom his100-milers, holdingback.The Hoka OneOne-sponsoredultra runnerKarlMeltzer ismovingon rst came out,theMafate wastheonlystyle. Icalledit GOOD TASTE rst athlete tosign rst athlete OUTDOOR FORMER JOB: TEE OFF DREAM WITH: GOLFER TO GO-TO CHEAT MEAL: in threehours.” 500 margaritas I couldpumpout had everseen. bartender anyone probably thefastest “Bartender. Iwas Rickie Fowler “Arnold Palmeror thing.” is alwaysawonderful “A bacon cheeseburger MARKETPLACE .”

29 Montrail’s Caldorado sneaker with waterproof Outdry treatment

Speedcross Pro by Salomon with non-marking Contagrip outsole

Riot Boost by Adidas Outdoor with ballistic nylon upper

Xxxxxx xxxxxx Vario from Xxxxxxx with wet-terrain grip Altra’s Lone Peak 2.5 trail shoe with TrailClaw outsole for traction SPRING TREND Geared Up This season, women’s trail shoes come equipped with everything from Hoka One One’s Challenger shoe durable outsoles to waterproof with 4-millimeter lug outsole technology for rough terrain.

The Adrenaline ASR 12 GTX running silhouette from Brooks with Gore-Tex upper PHOTOS: SHOES: COURTESY OF BRANDS; RUNNER: SHUTTERSTOCK RUNNER: BRANDS; OF COURTESY SHOES: PHOTOS:

30 MARKETPLACE OUTDOOR Adidas Outdoor continues to use Continental rubber for its outsoles. PHOTOS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES America, told Nef and Gea low-profilehikingboots. Nef andGea label’s sellers,specificallytheMio, biggest more urban-orientedreleasestobe the its for quality traditionalhikers, expects into] morestoresthisyear.” McCoubrey said.“As aresult,we’re [getting difference, it’s amucheasierconversation,” but whenit’s justa10percentor15 40 percentpremiumforEuropeanquality, tospenda30percentor ers andcustomers betterpany margins. toofferretailers deliver itsspringline,allowingthecom- changed favorably forAkujustintimeto rate, butthathas the currency-exchange has beenslowtogrowdomesticallydue Aku’s founder, GallianoBordin, also created former bootbrand Dinsport. Aku’s Climb Sam McCoubrey, GMofAkuNorth “We take allthesameknow-howweput For thebrand, whichisknown spring, “It’s toconvince retail- onethingtrying S By Peter Verry it become anoutdoor player intheStates. The Italian labelhopes its spring’16 linewillhelp A brand lifestyle image footing. brand isfinallyfindingits belluna, Italy-based outdoor North America,theMonte- Akudebutedin ix yearsafter Footwear News thatAku European quality stillearnsitsmark.” ormagazines—that ing itfrombloggers consumers aren’t aware —otherthanread- has beentoughfromourside,somost invest in]theEuropeanquality position wall,” hesaid. “[Persuading to retailers not lookingforchange ontheirfootwear those consumers. the brandstillfaceschallenges inreaching North Americanbusiness,McCoubrey said contours ofthefoot. top ofapre-shapedlastthatmimicsthe layer ofEVAAku placesa5-millimeter on a broken-in feelingrightoutofthebox, fromtheinsideout.Tostarts giveshoes pair ofjeansorshorts.” witha andsidewalks see itoncity streets worn onthetrail, butyou’re morelikely to protection,” McCoubrey said.“It canbe and support upper withoutthat external the sametechnologies—butweusean ourhikingboots—and into manufacturing “Most arejust specialty outdoorretailers But whileAkuismakingstridesinits company’sThe boot-designprocess strong competitors. Brands are becoming their own vendors. to-consumer sales by right now are direct- the biggest headwinds in thevendor base. But competition, consolidation Some are well-known: online facing outdoorretailers today? What are thebiggest problems 1 By Peter Verry specialty retail challenges. tight-knit membership and Alliance president onits The Grassroots Outdoor WES ALLEN and formerly owned aspecialty You’ve worked atChaco, REI 3 support independentnetworks. make sure they’re ones that about thelabelsthey work withto Second, they needto thinkcarefully and the[in-store] experience. with connections to thecommunity store’s brand. A lotof thathasto do got to buildandnurture theirown on otherpeople’s brands —they’ve retailers can’t buildtheirbusinesses First andforemost, specialty with these issues? How shouldstore owners deal 2 OUTDOOR 5 QUESTIONS Alliance member January 2016]. insights [atthetrade show in most important andpowerful retailers. We’re going to [share our] on independentoutdoor specialty We’re partnering withtheOutdoor helping independentretailers? How istheGrassroots Alliance 4 share thatwithotherretailers. look atwhat’s working for usand 50 or100 members. We want to them upby bringinginanother are strong. We don’t want to mess relationships amongourretailers in thenext three years. The — we mightonlygrow 20 percent We’re notlooking for rapid growth the Grassroots organization? Are you planningto expand 5 Rock/Creek in to retailers andbrands. those tactics andpromoting those winning. I’m focused onfinding can alluse thatlead to everybody look around, there are tactics we successful inthelongterm. When I equity to make theircompany people tryingto buildbrands and their payroll, butIalso identifywith have to dowell intheirjobs to make Monday morningandknow they strongly withpeoplewhoget upon successful [together]. Iidentify retailers andbrands can be bright, shiny middleway inwhich and asaretailer, Ibelieve there’s a Having worked onthevendor side experience taught you? store. What has your personal Tennessee networking event focused MARKETPLACE Industry Association an education and an education and Alliance member Sunlight Sports OR, whichwillbe and Emerald Expositions, called Rise at [the organizer something something to present Retailer], of Outdoor in Wyoming 31 te scrt hles wig r holding mortgages or other securities or owning 1 percent or more holders of total amount of bonds, security other 5.Known bondholders, and mortgagees Angeles, CA90025. Media, LLC, 11175Santa Monica Blvd, Los ultimate corporate parent, Penske Business through intermediate corporations to the Directly10017. Stockholder: or indirectly LLC., 475Fifth Ave, New York, New York 4.The is: owner Fairchild Publishing, Ave, New York, NY10017. Executive Editor, Neil Weilheimer, 475Fifth Atmore, 475Fifth Ave, New York, NY10017. President, York, Vice NY10017.Editorial Director, Michael are: Publisher, Sandi Mines, 475Fifth Ave, New Editor Executive and President, Publisher, Editorial Director, 3.Thenames and addresses the of Vice Fifth Ave, New York, NY10017. eral Business Offices the Publisherof is475 2.Location of the Headquarters or Gen- tion is475Fifth Ave, New York, NY10017. 1.Location of known office ofPublica- Annual subscription price $59.00 Publication No. 204-120. in Fifth week August 1,2015. forOctober weeks inJune, September and December third weeks inApril and November, fourth March and July, week second inDecember, lished weekly, except for first the in weeks Circulation NEWS, of FOOTWEAR pub- showing Ownership, the Management and Statement Required by 39U.S.C. 3685 are: None. (Signed) Danielle Rome formthis and istrue complete. that allinformation 7.Icertify on furnished Electronic Copies)...... 63.30%...... 65.20% Print (Both & m. Percent Paid Electronic Copies...... 18,401...... 18,907 +Paid 15f) (Line l. Total Print Distribution Paid Electronic Copies..11,647...... 12,328 Print15c)+ (line Copies k. Total Paid j. Paid Electonic Copies....1,066...... 1,150 Requested Circulation....61.04%...... 62.95% i. Percent Paid and/or h. Total...... 17,708...... 18,102 g. Copies not Distributed.....373...... 345 f. Total Distribution...... 17,335...... 17,757 Distribution...... 6,754...... 6,579 e. Total Nonrequested Throughthe USPS...... 0...... 0 by of Classes Other Mail (4)Requested Copies Distributed Outside USPS®...... 708...... 707 or Requested Distribution Counter Sales,and Paid Other Street Carriers, Vendors, (3)SalesThroughDealers and PSForm 3541...... 0...... 0 Mail Subscriptions stated on (2)In-County Paid/Requested PSForm 3541...... 9,873...... 10,471 Subscriptions stated on Paid/Requested Mail (1)Outside County and/or Requested Distribution b. Legitimate Paid a. Total No. Copies...... 17,708...... 18,102 6.Extent and nature of circulation preceding 12months Average No. Copies ah su during issue each ro, Financial Analyst filing date nearest to Single Issue Making Tracks WEARING THEY ARE kicks by Salomon, Brooks andmore. Bonneville Shoreline Trail wearing tough legged friends—tackled Salt Lake City’s The 100-mile trail follows theshoreline of theancient Lake Bonneville. week, runners —andtheirfour- conditions for getting outside. Last Crisp fall mornings provide ideal

PHOTOS: ADAM FINKLE/AJFPHOTO.COM 2015 Editorial Calendar Footwear News DECEMBER NOVEMBER FEATURE EDITORIAL SPACE CLOSE OCTOBER DATEISSUE 12/7 11/24 Women’s, Comfort 11/2 10/22 Comfort, Rainboots 10/5 9/24 BBC 22 1/0 International Tradeshow Guide:1st Half2016, Year inReview 12/10 12/21 Sneakerhead Issue, Distribution: NSRA Leadership Conference 10/29 Distribution: Children’s Clubof NY 11/9 The Work BootIssue, Occupational Footwear, Outdoor 10/1 10/12 12 1/2 FFaNY Pre-Show Issue 11/12 Paris Runway Coverage 11/23 QVC Presents FFaNY Shoes On Sale 10/8 10/19 13 1/9 FN Achievement Awards, FFaNY Show Issue 11/19 Distribution: QVC Presents FFaNY Shoes On Sale Event 11/30 Distribution: FFaNY FN 10/26 10/15 100 Two Ten Footwear Annual Dinner, FFaNY FN Achievement Distribution: Awards, PHOTOS: SHOES, CHRISTOPH: COURTESY OF BRANDS; RUNNERS: SHUTTERSTOCK worked withthebrandasanoutside Lowa’s operations—she’s marketing knowledgeof armed withextensive comes and promotions.Christoph andcampaigns,advertising support including brandstrategy, retailer of thelabel’s needs, marketing willberesponsibleforall Christoph immediately. In position, hernew will assumetherole,eff company &Co., marketing Christoph City-basedSalt Lake ownerof Christoph, manager. Lesley marketing a new announced thehiringof has brand Lowa based outdoor-footwear Jetzendorf, Germany- Familiar Hire News Outdoor BUZZ ective ective Christoph

Milestone, Best and anESSSnake Plate protection extra toecap for molded TPU terrain, a onevery traction exceptional outsole for Vibram Megagrip runs, featuringa built totake abeatingonlongtrail Built Tough GM, inastatement. line,” saidPeter Sachs,Lowa’s U.S. consumer interestinourproduct ourdealersandcreating supporting brand, promoting theLowa in will allowforagreaterfocus joinusasafull-timeemployee Lesley consultant since1998.“Having Ultra Endurance. The shoeis Ultra Endurance.The The NorthFaceThe islookingto trail-running silhouette, the cater totheoutdoor introducing a new introducing anew enthusiast whospendsa Calif.-based brandis theAlameda, spring ’16, lot oftimeontrails.For InKids, KidsFashion, Milan Runway Coverage Ultra Endurance The NorthFace muddy conditions.Now, aims Asics —especiallyin dirty shoes get When runnerstake ontrails,their Staying Cleaner to keep athletes lookingspiffi to keep athletes January 2016for$125. andretail todeliverin shoe isexpected underthefoot.The for security with its new hydrophobic with itsnew technology. brand’s The patented PlasmaGuard coating isdesigned to repelmudand permeate any not allowitto er The Asics Gel-FujiThe Asics Footwear News is the premier destination for the the for destination premier the is News Footwear footwear industry’s classified and career listings. Deadline: 2pm Wednesday (ET) prior to date of publication BIG BUSINESS SMALL Endurance 323 617 9094 323 respectively. pricesof$120and$180, with retail styles willhitstoresinJanuary 2016, and theGel-Fuji Endurance.Both Gel-Fujithe Asics Runnegade 2 silhouettes: it onapairofspring’16 Japanese brandincorporated athletic Plasma fl the sneaker’s breathability or itdoesn’tlimit ofashoe,yet part exibility. To introduceits Contact Shannon Fitzgerald at at Fitzgerald Shannon Contact or [email protected] Or Fax 212 779 7248 779 212 Fax Guard technology, the FootwearNews.com SPACE To subscribe,goto 1.866.963.7335 Runners slogging Or Call through mud

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Truth Be Told Cate Blanchett was all smiles while wearing Roger Vivier Trompette heels during a panel discussion of her latest film, “Truth,” in New York City last Wednesday. Blanchett has already garnered Oscar buzz for her performance in the docudrama, as well as for her role in the upcoming movie “Carol.” PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES GETTY PHOTO:

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