Fire Department of La Paz Receives 155 New Uniforms * Thanks to Rotary Club Bahía La Paz

October 29th, 2014

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YEAR: 5 Nº: 130 PUBLISHER: Hally J. Productions S. de R.L. EDITOR: Gari-Ellen Donohoe Fire Department of La Paz Receives 155 New Uniforms * Thanks to Rotary Club Bahía La Paz

TBC and their ability to perform the world’s most The Rotary Club Bahía La Paz, dangerous job. This sup- with the help of GlobalFire, has ply and distribution op- donated to the Municipality of eration will set the stage La Paz Fire Departments 155 uni- for possibly conducting a forms to help local crews per- supply and training oper- form their jobs a little bit easier. ation at a later date. The shipment left Toronto in Mayor Estela Ponce Beltrán was August and arrived in La accompanied by the president New uniforms doanted to the La Paz Fire Paz in September. of Rotary Club Bahía La Paz, Department. Guillermo Vázquez Silva, the Di- them by the American associa- Currently, the fi re department in rector of Civil Protection, Edu- tion GlobalFire. La Paz is under equipped. This ardo Bautista Palacios, as well shipment will help the fi refi ght- as the Fire Chief of La Paz, Gon- GlobalFire shipped fi re fi ghting ers of La Paz perform their dan- zalo Cervera González. They all protective equipment to fi re- gerous jobs more safely. They served as witnesses to the de- fi ghters in the city of La Paz in will be able to access hotter fi res livery of 155 uniforms given to an eff ort to improve their safety Continues on page 14 Day of the Dead Festival will take place on November 1st and 2nd at the Teatro de la Ciudad starting at 6:00 pm. To learn more about the Day of the Recovering From Odile Dead in La Paz, head to page 5 By Les Carmona after breezing across Sonora Mexico, 125 miles south of 3:45 p.m., odds had favored the hurricane missing land Arizona. completely. Odile now holds the record for the stron- On Sunday the 14th of September, the public was ingest storm to hit the peninsula, with winds of up to formed of the impending impact of Hurricane Odile. Formed earlier in the week Wednesday morning, the 125 mph and barometric pressure of 922 millibars. Only much-watched computer forecast tracking had the storm two other storms with such low pressure have formed It made landfall at the tip of the Baja California penin- zig-zagging its way north. In the 24-hour period between in the East Pacifi c region in recorded history, Olivia in sula, passing directly through the town of Cabo San Lu- Saturday night and Sunday night the meteoro, a Spanish 1967 and Kiko in 1989 and only Kiko hit the Baja, com- cas, and continuing up through the mountain towns of slang word for meteorological phenomenon, intensifi ed ing up the Sea of Cortez and roaring across La Paz in a San Bartolo, San Antonio and El Triunfo before reach- from Category one to Category four and then diminished northwesterly direction. ing La Paz. Continuing up the spine of Baja California, back to a Category three hurricane before striking Los it eventually crossed the Sea of Cortez and dissipated Cabos around 10:45 p.m. local time. As late as Saturday Continues on page 16 October 29th, 2014 2

was one adventure. Sharing information, finding loved ones and checking in on out of town friends properties were others. Yes, Hurricane Odile caused major destruction to the city of La Hurricane Odile and her after- Stories running rampant of lo- Paz and for many days - even math have been a humbling cal grocery stores with empty weeks - afterward, the life we experience to say the least for shelves, banks machines with- were use to, the life we took for us folks here in La Paz. Living out money, gas stations without granted, had changed. through a hurricane is one thing, gas and water but the days following the storm distillers with- were those that have left marks out drinking wa- on my heart forever. ter had people in panic and out It was truly a community Not knowing when the elec- in the streets effort to get La Paz up tricity would be turned back searching for and running and to have on, being without contact with the necessi- the population thriving the rest of the world for days ties they would again. or not knowing when running need for a fu- water would be the norm again ture unknown. For example, last month, were just a few examples of the the students and teach- storms aftermath that I would I managed, with ers of the St. John´s never want to experience again some difficulty, College organized a de- Drinking water given out by AMPI La Paz with my kids. to not see the Colegio St. john livery of provisions to a neigh- health care items, food, and borhood in need. They delivered school supplies, to date. Sev- doom and gloom Gradually, however, life started 250 gallons of drinking water; eral local non-profits, including of the situation that moving towards normal. And bags filled with canned food and FANLAP and Care for Kids La we had been dealt it did so with the help of every- clothes to those who needed it Paz, were very busy themselves and instead decided day people who just wanted to the most. distributing the goods to many to focus on a more get out and make life better for families in the communities of positive approach someone else. Also, a huge thank-you to AMPI Vista Hermosa, Marquez de to the new adven- (Mexican Association of Real Es- Leon and Laguna Azul – to name ture that life had There were several differ- tate Professionals) who bought just a few of the communities thrown us. ent community groups in and and delivered more than 200 greatly effected by the hurri- around La Paz hard at work try- boxes of drinking water (4,600 cane. Getting the kids to ing to do their part in getting La kg total) to the communities of conserve water and Paz back up on her feet. Many Las Flores/La Bola in El Centena- Tailhunter’s is part of a non-prof- enjoy life without individuals stepped up and vol- rio and Ciudad del Cielo. Families it charity program called “Pack lights, TV, Internet unteered their time and energy receiving water were very ap- for a Purpose” that assists trav- and video games to help those in need. Others preciative. Many communities ellers who want to bring mean- opened up their pocketbooks of La Paz are still struggling with ingful contributions to the desti- Congrats to Runners Mx, Runners for a Cause and the Trilocos and donated what they could. day-to-day necessities after Hur- nations they visit. triathlon team who spent their weekend cleaning up CREA ricane Odile hit the area on Sep- tember 15th. Others groups just got out their brooms, shovels and garbage Jonathan and Jillene Roldan at bags and used their manpower Tailhunter’s Restaurant are still to cleanup the city. A huge con- busy receiving goods to help grats to Runners Mx, Runners those less fortunate. To date, for a Cause and the Trilocos tri- fishermen visiting the city have athlon team who spent an en- brought down from Canada and tire weekend cleaning up CREA, the US well over 500 pounds of used and new clothing, shoes, Continues on page 17

Publisher: Hally J. Productions S. de R. L. La Paz, BCS 23090 Mexico

Editor Gari-Ellen Donohoe [email protected] Gari-Ellen’s cell (612) 159 13 88 Graphic Design Gabriela Inzunza Salgado The Baja Citizen is a free circulation community newspaper that is distributed in La Paz and the communities of Centenario, Todos Santos, Pescadero, El Sargento/La Ventana and Los Ba- rriles every second Monday. The views of contributers to The Baja Citizen do not necesarily reflect those of the Publishers. 3 October 29th, 2014

HYATT PLACE LA PAZ OPENS ward to creating TBC a positive travel the multi-tasking traveler. The experience for Hyatt Place La Paz located at hotel is situated in the exclusive each and ev- CostaBaja has now opened. Hy- area of CostaBaja, near the Pi- ery guest that att Place La Paz is the second chilingue Highway, 30 minutes walks through Hyatt Place hotel to open in from La Paz International Air- our doors,” said Mexico and continues Hyatt’s port. Francisco Her- growth strategy in the country. nandez, general The CostaBaja neighborhood Hyatt Place La Paz manager, Hyatt Place La Paz. “The opening of this hotel is rich with nearby activities • A Coffee to Cocktails Bar, of- “Hyatt Place was designed for marks the second Hyatt Place for guests to enjoy, including fering a wide range of specialty a lifestyle, not a demographic, in Mexico, and we are delighted a beach on the Gulf of Califor- coffees, espresso, premium and as a result, we are confident to be expanding the brand’s nia, the 18-hole CostaBaja Golf beer and wines that everyone from business presence in Mexico. This hotel Course designed by Gary Player, • 2,691 square feet of flexible, travelers to beachgoers will opening is a testament to the a 250-slip marina, and a variety meeting and function space appreciate the open, intuitive success and value of the Hyatt of shops and restaurants. • A 24-hour business center ful- design, casual atmosphere and Place brand,” said Myles Mc- ly equipped with free wireless practical amenities, such as free Gourty, senior vice president, The hotel is also in close prox- printers that can be used from Wi-Fi and 24-hour food of- Latin America & Caribbean for imity to La Paz’s historic down- anywhere in the hotel ferings.” Hyatt. “We believe Hyatt Place town, Todos Santos Magic • 24-hour StayFit Gym La Paz will bring a new standard Town and Espiritu Santo Island, • Outdoor pool with views to to the area and will provide a a UNESCO biosphere reserve. the marina perfect mix of style, service and Guests to the destination may amenities that will exceed guest also enjoy seasonal water ac- “Hyatt Place La Paz is located in expectations.” tivities such as whale watching, the very desirable area of Cos- surfing, kayaking, sailing, wave taBaja, and we’re looking for- Hyatt Place La Paz opens eight runners, jet skiing, and deep-sea months after the first Hyatt fishing, among -oth Place hotel, Hyatt Place Los Ca- ers. bos, opened in Mexico. Hyatt has previously announced ad- Hyatt Place La Paz of- ditional Hyatt Place hotels in fers guests: Mexico, including Tijuana, Baja • 151 roomy rooms, California; and Ciudad del Car- each offering scenic men, Campeche. views of the marina or the Sea of Cortez The growing appeal of the Hy- • All guestrooms fea- att Place brand among business ture a swiveling 42- and leisure travelers visiting inch TV, the plush Hyatt Grand Grand Opening of Hyatt Place La Paz Latin America and the Caribbe- Bed and a Cozy Corner sectional an is fueling this growth in the sofa with sectional sofa-sleeper region. Hyatt Place is currently • Free Wi-Fi everywhere represented in Costa Rica, Chile • Free hot buffet breakfast for and Puerto Rico. Previously an- guests nounced Hyatt Place hotels are • 24/7 Gallery Menu & Market, under development in Guate- which includes an all-day-dining mala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Pan- restaurant, freshly prepared en- ama, and Brazil. trees and appetizers available around-the-clock, plus on-the- Hyatt Place La Paz is an upscale, go salads, sandwiches, sweets select service hotel designed for and bottled beverages October 29th, 2014 4

the cathedral in his honor. He Believe it or not but the oth- deserves it. Think of him as the er day I was at a well known patron saint of ribs. chicken place and the combo I ordered came with a drink, it JB Ribs later they figured out how to JB Ribs is a small “hole in the must be a soda! Not water! I was cut and cook their game to get wall” place with a lot of char- sternly told after requesting If you find yourself strolling the best meal going. Make a big acter and amazing food. A few water. Even if they had bottled around Parque Velasco in front fire and throw big meat on it! picnic tables, a take out counter water in the fridge right next to of the cathedral here in La Paz, WWOOOAAAAHHHHH! and voila! Rib central. Rolls of the soda!!! Ni modo! Soda or die! you will inevitably end up in paper towels on the table and The soda Nazi said… front of a pig sign. It is JB Ribs. In my mind, I see a raw leather an ocean view. When we walked Actually you may get the deli- clad, smelly, unkempt individual in, we saw a few patrons outside they would be serving and the Deals: cious smell before you see the (not unlike some of the more on the sidewalk tables having Cowboy shared a secret family For 2 people $190 pesos full rack sign. Warning! Not a destination salty individuals we get here just about finished their meal. recipe for baby back ribs. After with 2 sides and 2 drinks for vegetarians! Well, I guess the in some anchorages…) one in- There was nothing left but piles testing the recipe, the Chilango For 3 people $280 pesos pig was vegetarian. Got to give spired day, having tried a new of bare bones as you would find said let’s open the first Costill- For 4 people $375 pesos him some credit. technique for roasting with a them in the desert! Good sign I ería in Mexico and thus began J Group deal for approximately 8 cut of ribs which none of the thought. & R Ribs. They have been open to 12 people. Something about ribs rings the other cave men wanted because two- and-a-half-years now. 6 kilos of ribs, 6 full racks with all cave man bell inside of us. While of too many bones. Imagine this They recently remodeled. The sides $1100 pesos Day of the Dead in La Paz A Celebration NOT to be Missed Neolithic women were out gath- Neolithic chef saying to his bud- artificial ivy on the wall isre- They serve only baby back pork ering herbs, roots and berries dy, “Dude! This is really good!” ally cool looking. It is air-condi- ribs, my favorite. Slow roasted Extra sides at $35 pesos for food and medicine, the men It probably involved wild honey, tioned. Spotlessly clean. As you and falling off the bone tender. were killing big things. Roast- salt and herbs. A tradition was go to the counter to order you Juicy meat, no grizzle, like pork They offer delivery in the down- ing hunks of meat in fire pits. born! We will never know that can see a fabulous antique, a still pudding. No kidding! They are town area for $30 pesos, past They kept experimenting and guy’s name was but ever so of- functioning butcher scale from fantastic. Colosio $50 pesos and outside innovating and a few millennia ten go and light up a candle at Germany. It is a Testina Waagen- of town $80 pesos. fabrik, a thing of beauty circa There are a few sides like a very 1920’s. generous portion of local organ- The sauce choices are: ic salad and BBQ beans. All home BBQ traditional (I am not typical- Company History: J & R Ribs Cos- made even the salad dressing. ly a fan of BBQ sauce but I really tillería began as an idea between Corn bread makes it way on the like this one) two friends, a Montana cowboy table too. Accompanied by the BBQ Jack Daniels (a little sweet- named Joshua Schroeder and best homemade fries. Potatoes er) a Mexican Chilango (a person or sweet potatoes. No frozen Chipotle with Raspberry (sweet from DF) named Rafael Rodri- fries here! Don’t get me started and sour) guez, who wanted to break the about frozen fries! Guácala! Not Piña Chile Chiltepile (the best) paradigm of fast-casual food in even the most wanting cave La Paz, Baja California Sur. They man with half a rotting taste They don’t serve liquor. saw that there was a taqueria, bud would tolerate that mass cafe or sushi restaurant on ev- produced-food-like-product! There is another JB ribs in Her- ery corner and decided to do One day I will have to write a mosillo shall you ever find your- something completely different review of all good home fries self there and craving good and innovative. One day they places! They deserve to be men- food. I heard they have a spec- were deciding what kind of food tioned. tacular antique scale collection.

The Menu goes like this: Located on the corner of Cinco de Mayo and Belizario Domin- Baby Back Ribs guez. Full rack $125 pesos Hours: 1:30 pm to 10 pm with Half $80 pesos Friday and Saturday closing at Full combo with a side and soft 12:00am. drink, flavored or plain water 612-122-7977 or cell (what’s app) $145 pesos 612-137 2977 Half a combo $105 pesos They cater. 5 October 29th, 2014

Believe it or not but the other day I was at a well known chicken place and the combo I ordered came with a drink, it must be a soda! Not water! I was sternly told after requesting water. Even if they had bottled water in the fridge right next to the soda!!! Ni modo! Soda or die! The soda Nazi said…

Deals: For 2 people $190 pesos full rack with 2 sides and 2 drinks For 3 people $280 pesos For 4 people $375 pesos Group deal for approximately 8 to 12 people. 6 kilos of ribs, 6 full racks with all sides $1100 pesos Day of the Dead in La Paz A Celebration NOT to be Missed Susan Fogel Extra sides at $35 pesos In 1913 Posada created a tintype with bones made of dough. The air smells like cinnamon. living and the dead is thinnest at called “La Catrina” and then Clay pots of café de ollo sim- They offer delivery in the down-You can feel the pulsing music. this time. It is a time to pay hom- continued to depict famous mer and it is from them the town area for $30 pesos, pastWe are following our noses and age to relatives and friends that people as a Catrina and added a cinnamon emanates. It is a Colosio $50 pesos and outsidethe beat of the music and the have died. And to poke fun at poem. wonderful strong- sweet cof- of town $80 pesos. crowd. death. And ghosts walk among fee drink. The outdoor stage is lit in ghost- us. The sauce choices are: ly pale, icy, blue and white lights. There are constant perfor- BBQ traditional (I am not typical-Smoke wafts up eerily from the The distant sounds of the city mances on the open air stage. ly a fan of BBQ sauce but I really footlights. are like a whisper on the wind, a But once you have toured the like this one) sound not relevant to the mix of Other booths sell Pan de Muer- graves and sipped your coffee, BBQ Jack Daniels (a little sweet- life and death we are celebrat- to (Day of the Dead Bread) a er) ing. round, sweet loaf decorated Continues on page 19 Chipotle with Raspberry (sweet and sour) Traditionally the family would Costumes range from simple, Piña Chile Chiltepile (the best) gather at the grave of their to elegant, to super–cool. Each loved one, bringing their dead participant wears a number so They don’t serve liquor. relative’s favorite foods. They the public can vote for the best tell stories, sing songs and eat. Catrina. They wander through There is another JB ribs in Her- All over Mexico in cemeteries the crowd and strike poses, they mosillo shall you ever find your- big and small this celebration will allow you to take their pho- self there and craving goodA line of young girls in jewel- takes place. And in La Paz we to and will pose with you, but food. I heard they have a spec-toned, hoop – skirted, colonial have an additional celebration. they will never utter a word. tacular antique scale collection. dresses appears stage left. The In the parking lot of the Teatro turquoise, purple, scarlet, and de La Ciudad booths are set Located on the corner of Cincoemerald dresses sparkle in the up like a fair. Except each de Mayo and Belizario Domin-stage lights. Their picture hats booth is a “grave” or an “al- guez. are wide and adorned with pa- tar”. Different organizations Hours: 1:30 pm to 10 pm with per flowers and lace, their hair is and clubs and businesses Friday and Saturday closing atplaited and interwoven with rib- dedicate their grave to some- 12:00am. bons. They stop, turn and face one they admire, a fallen col- 612-122-7977 or cell (what’s app)forward. The audience gasps league or one year in the case 612-137 2977 in delight and breaks into loud of the women’s center, to bring They cater. applause. The girl’s faces are attention to domestic violence. Flowers and corn and colorful painted in death masks. The ee- And another year a dedications sand paintings tell the story of rie smile of a skeleton’s head. It was made to firefighters. the graves honoree. To help is Day of the Dead in La Paz. bring back the dearly departed Girls and women dress up as La for a night, pieces of their cloth- And when family and friends Catrina, the elegant skeleton ing, their favorite book, a guitar, want to visit, we try to get them women created by Jose Gua- their picture, and in one case a to come for Day of the Dead. dalupe Posada and then later favorite teacher’s entire living This is an authentic celebration, popularized by French artist room complete with reading a genuine community event. If and art historian, Jean Charlot glasses and shawl was recre- you haven’t yet attended, do in the 1920s. Last year a group ated. it this year. You will not be dis- of students from the Autono- appointed. Day of the Dead in mous University (UABCS) built And we viewed it through a Mexico is on November 1st, also an award-winning booth about window. On hand are the grave known as All Souls Day. It is be- Jean Charlot and La Catrina. creators to tell the story of their lieved that the veil between the honoree. October 29th, 2014 6

its best, hot and filling, and very street vendors serve these deli- has been found, right here in La reasonably priced. This style of cious sandwiches by the dozen Paz. sandwich is drowned in a rich to hungry tipsy fans waiting for sauce made form dried chili pep- the game to begin. Take a trip to Guadalajara, even Four Buck Chuck… By Char- on the southwest corner of Rev- per, vinegar, garlic, oregano and if only in your own mind. TBC lemagne olución and Legaspy is a simple chile de árbol. Their version is a To compliment the meal, they Great La Paz Meals for 50 pesos, sandwich shop called El Che- little less spicy than normal as also have a wide variety of soft El Chetos – Tortas Ahogadas Es-La Costa Restaurant, located on or less! tos. They make the best Tortas they complement their sauce drinks and aguas frescas, or tilo Guadalajara Navarro and Topete, just off the Ahogadas in town. Open only with a reduction of tomato. But flavored waters, made from malecon, will have the honor of El Chetos – Tortas Ahogadas Es- on Saturdays and Sundays, mark of course the table is laced with fruit, seeds and flowers. This is Tortas Ahogadas – 40 pesos hosting the Baja Ha-Ha Welcome tilo Guadalajara your calendar and come enjoy! deadly land mines of more on- a healthy alternative to the cor- Tacos Dorados – 10 pesos to La Paz party on Thursday, ions, dried peppers and a home- porate carbonated sugar drinks Aguas Frescas – 15 pesos November 20th, 2014 starting at Last week I traveled to beautiful When I walked in with my stom- made salsa picante should you causing many health problems 4:00pm. Hundreds of Baja Ha- Guadalaja, just for the perfect ach grumbling and only 50 pe- be brave enough to add some to worldwide, especially here in Southwest corner of RevoluciónHa cruisers, who have made the sandwich and the whole trip sos in my pocket, the sounds of your plate. Latin America. and Legaspy. journey along the Baja from the cost me only four bucks. I had so Vicente Fernandez singing “Gua- U.S. will be attending this spe- much fun; I’m going back today dalajara“ filled this corner sand- They begin with toasted birote As the owners watched me eat, Beer is not served and no Eng-cial event to welcome them to after I finish this month’s food wich shop as if on cue. The beau- bread, also called a bolillo, very smile, lick my fingers, and hum lish is spoken and they do notLa Paz, along with others living review, would you like to join tiful music reminded me that my common to the region and al- along to the beautiful music accept dollars. Great food to go.in the marinas and even a few me? favorite Mexican singer was also ways crunchy and usually saltier they were also enjoying, they You will not be disappointed. landlubbers. born in Guadalajara, home of the rather than sweet. This bread offered me a complementary Well, maybe I didn’t actually “torta ahogada”. This translates has a character of its own and taco dorado. This is a small fried As always I remain your man on travel across the Sea of Cortez to a “drowned sandwich” and is sliced and served open face potato taco, which is also com- a budget, prowling the streets The Baja Ha-Ha is a safe and en- to the capitol of Jalisco, but it is a very popular dish from the with delicious chopped fried monly served as a side dish to just for you. tertaining way for hundreds of sure felt like it. Here in La Paz, state of Jalisco. Street food at pork and savory onions. The red- help make sure no sauce goes 4 Buck Chuck! cruisers to head down to the dish orange super sauce covers uneaten. A sandwich, a taco and warmer climates in Baja Califor- the sandwich and he plate and drink all for 50 pesos. Valhalla nia Sur while at the same time allows the delicious cascade of making new friends. The cruis- flavors to blend together for ing event, on its 21st anniver- the perfect hot fast meal. This ANTIQUE AND CLASSIC CAR sary, left San Diego on October is without a doubt the messiest SHOW AND PARADE 27th and will arrive in Cabo San food you can eat, and will really Lucas on November 6th. It is an bring you back to your child- Manuel Amarillas approximately 750-mile rally. hood. Before you begin, locate the napkins and get ready to get The Gala del Auto Anti- some sauce on your hands. Did I guo y Clásico 2014 will This year, close to 171 boats are say finger lickin’ good? be held Saturday, No- set to arrive in Cabo San Lucas vember 22nd and Sun- and about three quarters of With the music and the food, I day, the 23rd and will those boats will make the jour- was brought back to the dusty feature vehicles that ney to La Paz over the course of fields outside the Soccer- Sta span almost a century: the winter. dium in Guadalajara where the from a 1917 Model T and 1953 Chevrolet pickup. Local car agencies will also be showcasing and take photos along side their7 years ago, Dennis and Susan their 2015 line-ups. favorite model. started meeting the fleet in

The show will have cars com- The parade of classic cars along peting in 3 categories with the the Malecón starts at 5 p.m. 1st category awarding the best from Héroes del 47 to Rosales original or restored car. The 2nd and back to Bravo Street. The category is for best modified event continues Sunday on the cars and the 3rd category is an malecon and 16 de Septiembre open one for all makes and mod- from 10 am until 7 pm. For more els. information, call 612-141-8554 or e-mail hector_manuel_amaril- The event is for the whole fam- [email protected]. ily and all are welcome to come 7 October 29th, 2014 has been found, right here in La Paz. The baja ha-ha 2014 welcome party welcomes cruisers to la paz Take a trip to Guadalajara, even if only in your own mind. TBC

El Chetos – Tortas Ahogadas Es-La Costa Restaurant, located on tilo Guadalajara Navarro and Topete, just off the malecon, will have the honor of Tortas Ahogadas – 40 pesos hosting the Baja Ha-Ha Welcome Tacos Dorados – 10 pesos to La Paz party on Thursday, Aguas Frescas – 15 pesos November 20th, 2014 starting at 4:00pm. Hundreds of Baja Ha- Southwest corner of RevoluciónHa cruisers, who have made the and Legaspy. journey along the Baja from the U.S. will be attending this spe- Beer is not served and no Eng-cial event to welcome them to lish is spoken and they do notLa Paz, along with others living The Baja Haha fleet anchored out in Los Cabos in 2013 accept dollars. Great food to go.in the marinas and even a few You will not be disappointed. landlubbers. Cabo San Lucas to invite them to Shuttle buses will be available to come to La Paz on behalf of the take people to and from Marina As always I remain your man on local tourism community. The Costa Baja and Marina Palmira. a budget, prowling the streets The Baja Ha-Ha is a safe and en- State and City Tourism depart- Please contact Susan and Den- just for you. tertaining way for hundreds of ments, Emprhotur, and the local nis at yachtmanagement@blue- 4 Buck Chuck! cruisers to head down to the marinas now sponsor the an- waterketch.com for more infor- warmer climates in Baja Califor- nual event in La Paz. Once again, mation. nia Sur while at the same time Dennis and Susan Ross of Ross making new friends. The cruis- Marine Services and Consult- ing event, on its 21st anniver- ing and Jean and Roger Wise of ANTIQUE AND CLASSIC CAR sary, left San Diego on October Wise Services will be acting MCs SHOW AND PARADE 27th and will arrive in Cabo San for the event. Lucas on November 6th. It is an approximately 750-mile rally. There will be free entry tickets for the captain and one This year, close to 171 boats are crewmember from the first 25 set to arrive in Cabo San Lucas boats that are in line before the and about three quarters of event. The general public is in- those boats will make the jour- vited as well to enjoy folkloric ney to La Paz over the course of dancing and music from local the winter. mariachi and rock bands. Menu is a Mexican Buffet and all the trimmings! Tickets are $11 USD and take photos along side their7 years ago, Dennis and Susan and $5 USD for children under 12 favorite model. started meeting the fleet in years of age.

The parade of classic cars along the Malecón starts at 5 p.m. from Héroes del 47 to Rosales and back to Bravo Street. The event continues Sunday on the malecon and 16 de Septiembre from 10 am until 7 pm. For more information, call 612-141-8554 or e-mail hector_manuel_amaril- [email protected]. October 29th, 2014 8 9 October 29th, 2014 A Day at the Beach for Por Ellas…Y Sus Niños La Paz Swim Relay Local Shelter Residents. TBC By Jeanne Walker The 6th Annual Por Ellas, El Mar de Cortez, Brazadas en Pro de La Prevención del Cancer Benita Sabino Morales, fundraiser will take place on Friday, October 31st, of La Paz, graciously 2014. Funds raised by swimmers and their sup- turned her home into porters during the daylong relay stay in La Paz a shelter for women and are used to help local women and children and children several living with cancer. years ago. The shelter usually has around 32 Por Ellas has become a very popular sporting residents, 15-24 chil- event in La Paz that tries to promote the impor- dren. Several of these Board Day. Kids up on the paddlebaord. tance of preventative education and physical ac- women and children are unable Photo courtesy of Jeanne Walker. tivity as a lifestyle for Mexican women and their to stay with their own families, Jeanne and Tom own La Paz families. or don’t have a family to stay Cruisers Supply at Marina Palmi- with. Benita has several goals ra, a shop dedicated to help The event Por Ellas is a 35-kilometers, 30-minute to help the women learn self- cruisers maintain and repair relay with teams of 8 swimming in pairs out in supporting skills for themselves their boats. A few years ago the open water. 144 swimmers will be participat- and children. Jeanne learned two interesting ing from all over Mexico, including teams from pieces of information – the first BCS. The event will start at CostaBaja at 7:00 am On one of the really hot Tues- that cruisers were tossing out with participants swimming out to El Tecolote days in late July, tons of fun was perfectly good food at the end and then back to CostaBaja to finish the relay had by the children of Mama of their seasons, and secondly, later that day. Benita’s Shelter. They were Mama Benita’s shelter would ac- Continues on page 14 treated to a day at the beach by cept that perfectly good food! Jeanne Walker and her husband Jeanne put the two together by Tom Brown of La Paz Cruisers offering a collection location at Supply, and Bryon Harker and their store and personally deliv- his staff at Harker Stand Up Pad- ering the items to the shelter. dle Boards. Recently some major, much needed renovations have been done at the shelter. There is still a need for more assistance – food, electricity, propane, warm clothing, and bedding and much more. If you have an Hanging out on the paddle boards. interest in helping Photo courtesy of Jeanne Walker. out with a donation What’s better than spending a or would like more information, hot day playing in the cool wa- please contact Jeanne Walker at ter, learning to use a SUP board (612) 117 5619 or pmtwalker@ with a lesson from Sergio Gar- hotmail.com. cia of Deportes de La Paz, or just playing on them? Getting to have pizzas for lunch, of course! The smiles were non- stop all day!

They had extra help from friends who also wanted to play at the beach: the award winning trumpet player Terry Townson and his wife Valerie, and Tom Ireton, local photog- rapher. Several of the staff of Harker Stand Up Boards donated their morning either in the water to help the children, or to cook pizzas.

Pizza time! Photo courtesy of Jeanne Walker. October 29th, 2014 10

you use it for something else? Or must have solar hot water heat- Go Green donate it? ers. In Israel, 90% of homes have solar hot water heaters, something other than a plastic Recycle: PLEASE recycle those and in 2004, Spain passed a bag. plastic bags, bottles, and alu- law requiring solar panels on By Gordon Herpst minum cans. We have a recy- all new homes. So let’s do our Here are some ideas that are cling center in La Paz. Centro part. For information on how to Six Ways to Go Green at Home, easy to implement and suits our de Reclicado located at Allende heat your hot water or pool, call Save Money, and Mother Earth way of life in La Paz. between Durango and Chiapas. green building consultant Gor- When looking for ideas for the 612-185-0637 Cell: 612 139 2709 don Herpst (612-128-4333). top six ways to reduce our im- 1. The Three Rs: Reduce, The money earned from recy- pact on our planet, some ec- Reuse, Recycle. cling goes to help defray the 5. Pull the plug on every- centric ideas popped up, like Reduce: Don’t buy it! Whether it cost of cancer treatment for the thing and save 1,000 kilowatt- making cocktails from organic is a gadget at the Dollar Store or Reuse: Good for you. You kept children of La Paz hours per year liquor, making your own mixers, new towels at Liverpool. Don’t the old towels, think of the mon- Look around you, how many lit- and using only local fruit. buy it. Your bath towels may ey you saved, and the fact that 2. Can you change a light tle red, green, or blue lights are have faded, but do they still do you did not add to the garbage bulb? staring back? You know what I And one that we love, adopt a their job? Then do you really dump. And old towels make Replacing just one incandes- mean, the power lights on your pet, thereby taking a stray off need new towels or merely want great rags and dog beds. Before cent light bulb with a compact DVD player, TV, coffee pot, com- the street. Scoop the poop with them? you throw anything away, can fluorescent light bulb (CFL) re- puter, and printer. Plug those duces carbon dioxide by 500 lbs. puppies into serge-protector a year. Replacing 17 bulbs is the strips, and when the items are equivalent of taking one car off not in use, flip the off switch on the road for an entire year. Yes, the strip. Simply turning off ap- CFLs cost more, but they last pliances that are in power-save about 10 times longer. And they mode will save 1,000 kilowatt are available at El Arco on the hours a year in your home. Abasolo. 6. I’m brushing my teeth! 3. Paper not plastic; can- Or I can’t hear you when the wa- vas not paper. ter is running! While you may have the option Very good, you brush two or of choosing paper bags over three times a day! But turn off plastic in the US or Canada, that the water while you brusha, bru- is not an option in La Paz or most sha, brusha. The US EPA says the of the country. But you can use average US household can save old beach bags, and other can- eight gallons of water a day by vas totes as grocery bags. If you turning the water off while they would like a free pattern and brush their teeth. sewing directions to make your own cute grocery bags, email There are a myriad number of me There is an island of gar- ways to green up your home, bage floating in the Pacific that and save money while saving is now the size of Texas. Our the environment. Recycling cans precious sea creatures ingest, and bottles, conserving water, are strangled by, and otherwise and bringing your own bags damaged, maimed, or killed by to the grocery store are three our plastic garbage. things we can easily do that will have a big impact on life in La 4. Who used up all the hot Paz. water? Setting up a solar hot water heating system seems like a LA PAZ PHONE NUMBERS no-brainer here, where the sun POLICE, FIRE shines almost every day of the DEPARTMENT, RED CROSS year. In 2010, Hawaii governor (EMERGENCY): Linda Lingle signed into law a 066 HIGHWAY requirement that all new homes PATROL/FEDERAL POLICE: 122 0369 IMSS HOSPITAL: 122 7377 FIDEPAZ CLINIC: 124 0400 COPT (PORT CAPTAIN): 122 0243 IMMIGRATION: 125 3493 OR 124 6349 STATE TOURISM OFFICE: 124 0100 OR 120 0199 11 October 29th, 2014 Odile and the Rise of the Modern Hero ger as the night approached. just couldn´t believe what we BCS made the national news at saw when we ventured out 9:00 pm with full coverage on onto the streets. The Arturo C. national TV. Nahl Stadium roof landed on By Anabelle Rossell 5 de Mayo Avenue, the Pemex When Odile hit Cabo, the wind gas station on Serdan fell apart, September is that month of the was definitely strong outside half of the parking lot shades year when we Mexicans remem- of our home here in La Paz. We from Chedraui Colima were on ber and celebrate those heroes surely didn´t know what was yet the ground, many billboard ads who gave us our independence to come but we knew we had a had fallen on homes or business from Spain. Since we were kids, long night ahead. on Forjadores and the walls and we grew up learning and re- windows in the tower buildings membering how Father Miguel I started to follow the updates in La Posada were torn out. It Hidalgo y Costilla rose in arms through twitter. I saw pictures was just too much. The malecon after Hurricane Odile and gave the “Grito de Dolo- of hotels flooding; being de- Paceños stepped up as the untarios (volunteers network) res” (Cry of Dolores) in the early stroyed. I listened as Radio For- Not only did we lose power but friendly and giving people started to gather volunteers hours of September 16th, 1810. mula local hosts offered to help we also lost water service and they are and started to share to deliver food collected in the Father Hidalgo was not alone. the Cabo Mil Radio station who phone service. We were also amongst themselves cold wa- Centros de Acopio from all over He was assisted by Mexican In- lost its antenna in the middle aware that on the outskirts of ter, burritos and coffee pots. Mexico. I was able to see a de- dependence heroes Ignacio Al- of the storm. I read updates the city, in many areas people SAPA staff worked the extra livery from Quintana Roo where lende, Juan Aldama, Capt. Jose from my friends living the hor- would be having a worse time hours too trying to reactivate the messages “no están solos” María Morelos and Josefa Ortiz ror and waiting. I received a lot than us. Since Los Cabos was the 11 wells in town and by the (you are not alone) were pasted de Dominguez. We know they of support from people I didn´t dealing with a much more dif- Wednesday after Odile, 7 were to tuna cans. all died creating a country of know and complete strangers ficult situation than ours, the up and running and the office our own. Every year we see the were sending their blessings federal government decided to staff dedicated extra long hours Then on a state level, after the President of Mexico recreate and best wishes through social make them the priority in the to receive and assign reports. terrible things that happened the Cry of Dolores at the Zocalo media. I was in touch with my state and send them help right The army and the navy were in Cabo, the cabeños families in Mexico City, which most of us friends through Whatsapp and away. present in and around town fa- came to La Paz to look for food watch from the comforts of our exchanging reports in different cilitating incoming help. or places to rent. Again restau- home on the TV. locations. And then the electric- After the initial shock, La Paz sat rants and hotels gave away food ity was turned off at 11:00 pm. quietly again right next to the Once we were back online, and discounts. In 2014, La Paz was getting ready bay. But it didn’t take long for social media became a game to celebrate our Independence Needless to say it was a VERY neighbors to ban together to changer and many started facili- Of course, this is only a glimpse Day as usual. However, one rough night and just like our help each other fix up damaged tating help to others. Everybody of all the heroic work made by week before September 16th, we friends in Cabo, we all waited homes, trees and property. Lit- had a cause to work for and ev- the citizens to get La Paz back started to hear of a hurricane and some of us prayed for the tle by little, clean up began on ery cause was everybody´s. Lo- on her feet. Rather than com- in the Pacific Ocean, which at hurricane to be over soon. Only streets and residents began re- cal restaurants and bars like Tail- plaining, we asked how we some point seemed to go into a few people could sleep (like storing overturned tinacos on hunter’s Restaurant provided could help and got busy. There deepest waters and away from my grandpa, but he´s deaf so he their rooftops. My neighbors, their Vonage lines without cost is still a long way ahead to get Baja Sur. doesn´t count). who lost their laminated roof, so we could talk to our friends everything fixed and done but helped me cover a smashed win- and relatives from all over the we know we couldn´t have done But that suddenly all changed. Many of us had damage to our dow and fix a broken door so I world who had been trying to it without those extra hands On September 14th, we heard homes but our first thoughts couldn´t get more flooded than reach us for days. and people´s good will. THESE a hurricane was coming up to were of thankfulness that we I already was. They helped me are our modern heroes. We ac- the peninsula and it would be were alive and safe. But what get out all the water from our Las Tres Virgenes also recog- knowledge your most invalu- hitting close to Cabo. On Sep- happened to the city was heart- two-level home by using towels nized the labor of CFE and gave able work and contribution and tember 15th at 1:00 pm, a press breaking. I don´t know about and buckets. They didn´t accept away burgers and even joined you´ll remain in our hearts and release from Governor Marcos you but it felt like sadness. We any money and we could only efforts with Buey Cup and other prayers. Covarrubias made it official: Hur- help them with food. 2 restaurants from the down- ricane Odile would hit Los Cabos town neighborhood to start de- Some friends from Mexico City as a Category 4 hurricane. At the city level, local livering food to CFE staff. People or the US and Canada keep ask- CFE, SAPA and Telmex started to spread the word on ing me, “What can we do to And we all got ready for the trucks got to work to get portable water plants and emer- help?” The answer is easy. Just storm. Compras de pánico the basic utilities back up gency power plants that could come by, visit and enjoy Baja (emergency grocery shopping) and running. It would be be lent to people with special California Sur. Enjoy its many took place. People filled up a slow process and we needs. As we became more cities and the unique lifestyle their cars with gas, bought extra would learn to be patient aware of all the different help each one has to offer. You´ll find drinking water and batten down but we could see help needed in different areas, -peo great food, both fun and relax- the hatches. on its way. Eventually, ple posted what was needed ing places to hang out, beauti- more CFE teams started and offers of help and support ful sunsets, paradisiac beaches, Independence festivities were to arrive from places like came pouring in. safe places where you can still cancelled by La Paz Mayor Es- Nayarit and Sonora on walk around and get lost in the thela Ponce and school was in- Baja Ferries. These peo- The #ramapickupchallange also culture and the pace of each definitely cancelled for all edu- ple worked 24 hours and appeared on social media, invit- town. And the best of all: the cation levels. I remember I was sometimes they didn´t ing and encouraging local politi- kindness and warmth of its peo- at home with my mom and my have time to go out for cians to show up at different ar- ple. A natural disaster like Odile grandpa in El Centenario and I lunch since there was so eas and clean up the fallen trees didn´t take that away from could hear the wind blow stron- Damage to condo tower in La Posada much work to be done. and branches. #RedesdeVol- us. J October 29th, 2014 12

it to shore, then turned around ter and swim and got back in the boat. The ice with the sea was a gift for the fishermen who lions. EPI had live and work there. These men invited the The Baja Citizen can’t prepare a Margarita on woman who newspaper has the Rocks or even a glass of icy cleans their of- power. I have water. And we take our freezers fices to join us. no idea if the pa- and ice cubes for granted. They helped per can influence her into snor- world politics or Once we got to the island, which kel gear and economics, but I is a protected area, our work be- then patiently know it can affect gan. We were divided into pairs, encouraged the future. I am handed clipboards, paper and her to enter the proof. pencils and were taught the dif- water. She was ference between adult male sea nervous, but In the April 25th is- lions, juvenile males, females, Sea lions having a nap two EPI personnel were her pro- sue, I wrote a piece and pups: Adult males are huge sounded. But we tried to be ac- tectors. They were in constant expressing appreciation to our Isla Los Islotes and have big heads and very curate, but I have no idea what physical contact with her. They friends who had invited us to Honestly, I’d never heard of loud voices; juvenile males are was done with our findings. But talked to her softly and the next spend time with them on their Ecology Project International, smaller than adult males and our effort served a purpose – time I looked she had her face wave runners and sailboat. As but I immediately said, “Abso- hang out together; females have we learned to observe more in the water and soon she was usual, I put a copy of the cur- lutely.” smaller heads and are usually carefully and appreciate what snorkeling. That day EPI gave rent issue in my file cabinet, shut lighter in color and are pretty astonishing sea life we have just her the opportunity to glimpse the drawer, and forgot about it. Fourteen people climbed into (okay, that may not be a scientif- a short boat ride away from our our underwater world. However, not everyone forgot. the shade-covered panga early ic description), and pups are the city. Saturday morning and motored smallest. One person counted; The counting and snorkeling Soon after that issue was dis- over almost-flat seas. The EPI the other recorded the findings. Fernando, a researcher with his primed our well-deserved ap- tributed our doorbell rang. It gang was amazing. They’re Sounds easy, right? Wrong. The PhD, shouted and our heads petites, so we motored to La was our neighbor, Charlene. young, energetic but more im- difference wasn’t as easy as it snapped toward his pointing Candelaria Bay for lunch. On the She wore a huge smile and said, portantly, they are knowledge- finger, “Look, a hot- way, we were quiet – perhaps “Judy, would you and Alex like able and passionate about their stamped female”. some relaxed; other reflected. to swim with the sea lions Sat- work. For one day we became Sure enough we saw For me it was that and more. I urday morning? Ecology Project their students. Heidi and Juan a big sea lion with the felt humbled by the sea life, but International is going to Isla Los Carlos, two instructors, pointed number #2389 brand- also grateful to the Baja Citizen Islotes to count sea lions. After out sea turtles, dolphins and ed onto the side of her for giving me the opportunity to reading your article in the Baja brown-footed boobies. body. Fernando ex- write my column. My neighbor Citizen, I knew that you and plained that last year read that article, thought of me, Alex are adventurous and love We pulled into a deserted-look- this sea lion appeared ring our doorbell, and inviting us being on the water, so I thought ing bay and I assumed we were on Isla Los Islotes but on this amazing adventure. of you when I heard they had going to swim, but instead Juan had been stamped on two spaces available. Want to Carlos, hefted a huge white ice The Channel Islands EPI was established in 2000. come?” chest over the side and carried Listening to instructions from EPI off the California coast. She Among their activities, they part- had travelled down the Baja, ner young students from the which is a rare event, since sea U.S. and Latin America with sci- lions usually live in their home entists in order to educate and colonies. I would assume that enhance conservation through an experienced researcher who hands-on science projects, em- has earned his PhD would be powering the next generation blasé, but he was elated about of conservation leaders. Their this sighting. It’s obvious that he funding is obtained by tuitions loves his profession. (59%), Grants (31%), and donations. They have been in La Paz The paperwork completed, it since 2005. was time to get in the warm, crystal clear, aqua-marine wa- 13 October 29th, 2014 SOME SLOW SPOTS BUT OVERALL A DECENT

WEEK OF FISHING WITH hunters, God bless you all for your help and big hearts! We VARIETY! are blessed and humbled be- http://fishreport.jonathanr- yond words. oldan.com/ DONATIONS FOR HURRI- Perfect weather. Perfect wa- CANE RELIEF SNOWBALL And that’s our story from Jon- ter. Sunny days. Just a hint FROM GENEROUS AMIGOS! athan and Jilly at Jonathan of breeze. Very little humid- Collected over 500 pounds in Roldan’s Tailhunter Interna- ity. Could not ask for better two weeks! tional. conditions. It has been some of the best weather of the season. Like a postcard for the Chamber of Commerce!

So…what happened to the fish? The week started well with a nice jag of wahoo and a smatter- ing of tuna mixed in with decent dorado, especially around Cer- ralvo Island. Dark-colored deep- running Rapalas put the hurt to the wahoo…up to 50 pounds… live bait enticed the tuna…while the dorado ate pretty much anything. Some sailfish and marlin- were hooked. The week looked promising! Alen Jones, Victonda Sheasby with Dr. Dennis and Tina Harper showed up with Then, it sort of just fizzled. It several tables full of school supplies, was like the fish took a holiday clothes for kids, playthings that filled about 100 pounds of ice chests and or something. We struggled to suitcases! get even a single dorado to bite and we resorted to having to The generosity continues. It go inshore for sierra, pargo and started as a trickle just after cabrilla. Mix it up with some Hurricane Odile almost a month roosterfish and jack crevalle and ago and has turned into a won- that’s the bite. derful flood and outpouring from so many of our friends I wish I knew. Last week when and clients. Over the last two we had a full moon…in fact we weeks we have been posting had a full lunar eclipse…the fish pictures of some of our Tailhunt- bit pretty nicely. This week with er friends, and there are more a minimal moon, the fish are all this week. However, this is by lock-jawed. no means all of them! There have been so many dona- Maybe things are cooling down tions. Some bring enough for a a little too fast. You can feel a group of sherpas to carry. Oth- bit of fall/winter in the air and ers bring a bag or two or fill northern winds are starting to some empty space in the corner creep in. So, maybe the fish are of a suitcase or tackle box. It’s adjusting. But the middle of all fantastic! For those who the week the bite literally just lost so much…or everything… seemed to die. it’s all appreciated. And it’s almost overwhelming that we’re As we turned the corner into speechlessly grateful. the weekend, thankfully things picked up! For no explainable Since Jill started the drive, she’s reason. I didn’t notice any- probably collected over 500 thing that had changed. But… pounds of supplies and items Dorado started crashing again in just the last TWO WEEKS plus a few wahoo, billfish and ALONE! And more arrives dai- rockfish (pargo and cabrilla) so ly! She’s making sure it’s all ac- that rescued the latter part of counted for and going to needy our week. Hopefully things stay groups where it will do the most on the upside for awhile as we good. head down the backside of the season. So on behalf of all of us at Tail- October 29th, 2014 14 Dennis and Susan Ross of La Paz Honored as SSCA’s Bateman Cruising Station of the Year

TBC

Dennis and Susan Ross of La Paz have been selected by the Fire Department of La Paz Receives ... Seven Seas Cruising Association TIME CHANGE IN MEXICO Continues from front page TOP as the Bateman Cruising Station TBC more quickly to affect rescue The mayor said she is very proud of the Year for 2014. The Seven (save lives) and put out the fire of her team of firefighters whoSeas Cruising Association (SSCA) Daylight Savings Time ended Oc- Previously all of Mexico, with the (save property and the environ- are committed to protecting theis a non-profit membership or- tober 26th,2014 at 2:00 am here exception of the state of Sonora ment). The protective equip- people of the city. She said they ganization for cruisers that live in Mexico (exceptions below). which does not observe daylight ment GlobalFire donated will are always attentive to whataboard their seagoing vessels or It was time to move the clocks saving time, began and ended City, State also help reduce the incidents of happens, as such was the caseare interested in learning about back an hour! daylight saving time at the same Acuna, Coahuila job related cancers firefighters before, during and after Hurri-the cruising lifestyle. The orga- time. The Congress of Mexico Anahuac, Nuevo Leon suffer from exposure to super- cane Odile. Not only is their jobnization has over 5,000 mem- In 2010, ten Mexico municipali- passed legislation in December Juarez, Chihuahua heated toxic smoke and gasses. to put out fires, but also to per-bers that live and cruise on their ties which share a border with 2009 which allowed these ten Matamoros, Tamaulipas form guidance and protectionboats around the world—literal- the United States will begin day- border cities to adopt a daylight Mexicali, Baja California It is important to point out that to the public. Ponce Beltran alsoly spread across the seven seas. light saving time three weeks saving time pattern consistent Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas the equipment is not only for the thanked the fire department forThere are almost 200 SSCA Cruis- earlier on the second Sunday in with the United States. The mu- Ojinaga, Chihuahua fire departments in La Paz but assisting in rehabilitation of theing Stations around the globe, March and end on the first Sun- nicipalities which are now per- Piedras Negras, Coahuila also for those in Todos Santos, City of La Paz after Odile. providing information and as- day in November. In 2014, this mitted by law to observe day- Reynosa, Tamaulipas San Antonio and El Pescadero. sistance to cruisers that are vis- will be November 2nd. light saving time consistent with Tijuana, Baja California She explained that the fire de-iting the local cruising grounds. the United States are: Mayor Ponce Beltran thanked partment is incorporated and The station hosts are a clearing- the president of Rotary Club coordinated into the municipali-house of information about lo- Por ELLAS... costs associated with recon- port of Por Ellas have gone on Bahía La Paz for this very impor- ties civil defense strategies andcal conditions, maritime related Continues from page 9 structive surgery. to the stage of remission in their tant act of community service together with the other areas services, and local community Por Ellas La Paz is the labor of This past year, thanks to the fight with the disease. and expressed her gratitude of public safety, they all becomeactivities. Additionally cruising love of Edna Llorens, a native support of the swimmers and This year the funds raised will that these gestures are of great one team and do whatever is station hosts provide assistance of Mexico City who now calls their donations for Por Ellas, 26 be it channeled through the as- importance to the people of La necessary to solve the problemsto cruisers that have medical or La Paz home. Edna, a profes- children living with cancer here sociation Sudcalifornia Unida Paz and to the City. on the task at hand. vessel-related emergencies by sional swimmer, has been swim- in La Paz have benefited from Contra el Cáncer Infantil (Sud- connecting the cruisers with lo- ming and fundraising endlessly medicines and antibiotics that cai). Sudcai hopes to equip the cal medical professionals and the past several years raising have come to a total of almost unit of Hematology-Oncology marine repair facilities. enough money to buy equip- 600 thousand pesos. Por Ellas Pediatric Unit at the Juan Maria ment for the local cancer clinic has also made possible the pur- de Salvatierra Hospital to better Dennis and Susan joined SSCA in to help detect breast cancer. chase of over 300 thousand pe- serve children and women with 1997 when they were first con- In the past, Edna and her team sos in medical supplies. To date, limited resources living templating purchasing a sailboat have helped local woman with 17 patients with help and sup- with cancer. for full-time live aboard cruising. According to the Rosses, “SSCA’s network of members, publications, online forums, and annual gams or cruiser get- togethers provided us with valu- able information on the lifestyle and allowed us to connect with Mayor Estela Ponce Beltran thanking Rotary cruisers that were already living the lifestyle.” 15 October 29th, 2014 Dennis and Susan Ross of La Paz Honored as SSCA’s Bateman Cruising Station of the Year

TBC In 2002 Dennis and Su- san took early retire- Dennis and Susan Ross of La ment, bought a 43’ sail- Paz have been selected by the boat and started their Seven Seas Cruising Association cruising life in the San as the Bateman Cruising Station Diego area. Within a few The mayor said she is very proud of the Year for 2014. The Seven weeks they moved their of her team of firefighters whoSeas Cruising Association (SSCA) sailboat to Ensenada, are committed to protecting theis a non-profit membership or- Baja California, Mexico people of the city. She said they ganization for cruisers that live to refit the vessel for blue water Dennis and Susan Ross are always attentive to whataboard their seagoing vessels or cruising. SSCA. The award was renamed by happens, as such was the caseare interested in learning about SSCA in 2008 in honor of George before, during and after Hurri-the cruising lifestyle. The orga- They joined the 2002 Baja Ha- and Dorothy Bateman, appoint- cane Odile. Not only is their jobnization has over 5,000 mem- Ha rally from San Diego to Cabo ed as one of the first Cruising to put out fires, but also to per-bers that live and cruise on their San Lucas, Baja California Sur in Station Hosts in 1984, assisting form guidance and protectionboats around the world—literal- October 2002 aboard their boat, thousands of world cruisers visit- to the public. Ponce Beltran alsoly spread across the seven seas. s/v Two Can Play, to begin their ing Opua, New Zealand over the thanked the fire department forThere are almost 200 SSCA Cruis- cruising adventure. They ac- years. SSCA was formed in assisting in rehabilitation of theing Stations around the globe, tively cruised the Pacific side of San Diego in 1952. City of La Paz after Odile. providing information and as- Mexico full-time from the north- sistance to cruisers that are vis- ern reaches of the Sea of Cortez She explained that the fire de-iting the local cruising grounds. to the southern port of Bahias partment is incorporated and The station hosts are a clearing- de Huatulco for almost seven coordinated into the municipali-house of information about lo- years before settling in La Paz, ties civil defense strategies andcal conditions, maritime related Baja California Sur, Mexico. Den- together with the other areas services, and local community nis and Susan became the SSCA of public safety, they all becomeactivities. Additionally cruising Cruising Station Hosts not long one team and do whatever is station hosts provide assistance after moving to La Paz to assist necessary to solve the problemsto cruisers that have medical or visiting cruisers. on the task at hand. vessel-related emergencies by connecting the cruisers with lo- In 2008 they formed a profes- cal medical professionals and sional yacht management com- marine repair facilities. pany, Ross Marine Services and Consulting, which is based in La Dennis and Susan joined SSCA in Paz. The company specializes in 1997 when they were first con- marine surveys, yacht manage- templating purchasing a sailboat ment, and project expediting for for full-time live aboard cruis- cruisers that leave their boats ing. According to the Rosses, in La Paz for extended periods “SSCA’s network of members, while they work or travel back to publications, online forums, their home country. and annual gams or cruiser get- togethers provided us with valu- The award is presented to volun- able information on the lifestyle teer Cruising Station Hosts who and allowed us to connect with have assisted visiting cruisers, cruisers that were already living particularly SSCA members, in the lifestyle.” a significant capacity, and who have made an effort to promote October 29th, 2014 16

sage of Odile was slow to be- containing flour and corn flour well as low cost loans for small K9 OF THE MONTH gin, according to some critics. for tortillas, cooking oil, diapers, and medium businesses. Busi- Most notably was a statement sugar and canned tuna, these ness tax contributions havewhich is located on the corner of 5 de Febrero and For- made over the radio during the relief supplies were at first given been postponed until the endjadores. popular morning show Pan- out at centros de acopio or food- of the year and the hotel tax has orama Informativa hosted by banks, then later delivered door- been temporarily suspended. MiguelAngel Ojeda on fm 96.7. to-door. A representative for the office Banks had waived their ATM of Federal Civil Defense, dur- A number of stores, facing spoil- fees for withdrawals made by ing an interview, apologetically age of perishables, made gifts of non-customers. Telmex had observed that well before the their stocks to locals. been giving free calls and es- start of the hurricane season his tablished a phone and internet office personally met with the In La Paz, a mere 36 hours after pavilion at the city hall. Movistar 5 Mayors of Baja California Sur the storm, several supermar- customers could also make free and gave them a 20 point list of kets were able to re-open. The calls for a limited time and Telcel areas needing attention, such roof on the Mega Comercial was gifted free saldo or airtime. Ma- as removal or reinforcing of bill- so badly damaged it could not jor CFE customers are now per- boards, highway signs and the open for some days. Aramburo mitted to buy electric futures. like, inspection of transmission and Chedraui had limited hours CREA is home to an athletics track where hundreds of lines, trimming of trees, clearing of operation but maintained Returning to the subject ofusers enjoy every day to walk, run or jog. The groups arroyos of debris and relocat- refrigeration thanks to power shady activity, 20 persons have decided to join forces to help cleanup debris on the ing residents of low-lying areas. plants. been arrested for possessingsite and put the track at CREA back in use so they In Spanish, he said, “with much stolen goods obtained duringcould restart their activities after the hurricane. love and respect for the people Also in the first few days af- looting. Once arrested, they will of Baja California Sur,” I warned ter the storm, the hotel sector not be granted bail and if con-Working together can get so much stuff done. With ev- you and you didn’t do what found itself accommodating victed will spend three to fifteenerybody helping where they could, La Paz has almost needed to be done. several thousand ‘refugees’ years behind bars. There have fully recovered from the destruction Odile brought to from Cabo as well as work crews been at least three allegationsthe city. For me, the adventure of life after Odile con- BRUNO - BORN MARCH 11, 2014 President Peña Nieto made from the utility companies. All of misappropriation or politiciz-tinues, as does the reminder that we shouldn’t take it MORE INFORMATION @ http://k9ranchodelperro.org/ three visits in the 10 days follow- schools were closed by order of ing of dispensas. The residence for granted. ing the hurricane. All available the state Secretary of Education of the CSL civil defense director technicians from the CFE made including the universities. La Paz was searched after anonymousYours, Recovering From Odile their way down to Los Cabos. schools re-opened September tips were received and several Gari-Ellen Continues from front page BOTTOM The military was dispatched to 29. Cabo schools didn’t reopen items looted from Cabo stores Damage was significant. Odile The availability of basic ser- aid local police efforts and give until October 6th, were found there and recov-A special thank-you to La Paz’s boating community. delivered some 6 inches of rain vices was disrupted. The cellu- manpower to the cleanup ef- ered. He has been arrested. InSeveral members spent days and nights after Hurri- to Cabo and La Paz. Over 2800 lar network came, went, came forts. The CFE sent helicopters In health and sanitation issues, total, 59 people have been de-cane Odile searching and later recovering the bodies power poles were downed and again and remained sporadic. for flyovers to ascertain the ex- any ban on taco stands and food tained but not arrested for be-of Guenter Trebbow, Simone Wood and Paul White- instead of fireworks celebrat- Although Telmex claims that tent of the damage and once the vendors was quickly lifted, part- ing in possession of new boxedhouse. Our condolences to Guenter’s, Simone’s and ing Independence Day Monday local landline service was still Ferry was up and running again, ly because of only isolated cases goods that may or may notPaul’s family and friends. night, transformers exploding available, very few were able to technicians and supplies began of raw sewage contamination of have been taken without being lit the sky as the storm made its make calls since almost no one rolling in. Some 1600 technicians streets and partly because the paid for. They join the dozens way northward early Monday owned an analog telephone. and over 78 vehicles plus private authorities wanted to get every- of people who have voluntarily morning. The greatest damage Long-distance service was un- contractors came over. Flatbed one working again. Grants have presented themselves to return to the electrical grid occurred at available. There was no electric- trucks with concrete posts and/ been made to the city to fund stolen items to the manage- the several transmission sites or ity to power the water pumping or transformers could be seen temporary hiring for clean-up ment of the stores looted during nodes that direct power to the stations so no water transmis- caravaning up to staging areas. activities. Mosquito borne den- the spontaneous celebration of colonias. It is said that approxi- sion was possible nor was there The power company also sent gue is a major health issue with having survived Odile. mately 135 persons suffered inju- any way to pump gasoline from over portable power plants so 234 new cases reported in the ries that required medical atten- the underground storage tanks. that water could begin flowing aftermath of the storm. Cases In the spirit of love and good- tion and the death toll stands at Food stock began to run low as again. Portable water treatment of stomach flu from amoebas will towards members of the 6. Some 30,000 tourists were in the days wore on. plants also arrived and the local are also common. In the days communities affected, the - na town during the storm and were government set up free water following the storm, warnings tion of Mexico and its northern eventually evacuated via mili- In the Cabo area, looting and filling stations at city hall and went out that it was possible neighbors have embraced Baja tary transport planes and non- plundering took place on a mobilized delivery of water to that pure water vendors might California Sur, sending our way scheduled commercial flights. grand scale. Major chain stores outlying areas. With the arrival not have all contamination safe- food, medicines, clothing, wa- Both international airports were were entered by force and of the power plants and genera- guards in place and it was rec- ter, baby items and gifts of cash. closed and their public spaces stripped of anything of value. A tors, the cell phone companies ommended to add bactericide Recovery is well under way and including the parking areas were Bancomer and a Banco Azteca quickly repaired their micro- to drinking water. the spirit that makes Mexico locked down. At the La Paz air- had their strongboxes forced wave towers and went back on- great lives on. port there was no information open. Many convenience stores line. The newly created federal Several economic recovery mea- to be had from airport officials were stripped as well. Some La police force, the Gendarmería, sures have been implemented. Contributing writer Les Carmo- as to flight schedules or - any Paz businesses that had doors set up indefinite residence in The car tax known as tenencia na bakes artisan breads and pas- thing else. No one was allowed or windows blasted open by the BCS. A curfew was ordered for has been eliminated until the tries for his shop Pan D’Les bak- access to bathrooms and there force of the storm were also vis- the Cabo area and police check- end of the year. The monthly fee ery while assimilating to the was no food service. The public ited by people intent on helping points were established along imposed by the city for renting pace of La Paz. The bakery is on areas of the SJD airport were themselves. the highway to catch looters. sidewalk spaces is waived until Madero between Constitucion ripped open by the force of the the end of the year. There are and 5 de Mayo. winds. Full service is expected to Government response to the Boxes of food, known as dis- several grant programs available be restored by November 24th. problems presented by the pas- pensas, began arriving. Usually to micro and small businesses as 17 October 29th, 2014 well as low cost loans for small Letters from the editor and medium businesses. Busi-Continues from page 2 ness tax contributions havewhich is located on the corner of 5 de Febrero and For- been postponed until the endjadores. of the year and the hotel tax has been temporarily suspended. Fishing friends of Tailhunter Banks had waived their ATM International fees for withdrawals made by have non-customers. Telmex had brought been giving free calls and es- with them tablished a phone and internet to La Paz hundreds pavilion at the city hall. Movistar of pounds customers could also make free of goods calls for a limited time and Telcel for those in gifted free saldo or airtime. Ma- need jor CFE customers are now per- mitted to buy electric futures. CREA is home to an athletics track where hundreds of Returning to the subject ofusers enjoy every day to walk, run or jog. The groups shady activity, 20 persons have decided to join forces to help cleanup debris on the been arrested for possessingsite and put the track at CREA back in use so they stolen goods obtained duringcould restart their activities after the hurricane. looting. Once arrested, they will not be granted bail and if con-Working together can get so much stuff done. With ev- victed will spend three to fifteenerybody helping where they could, La Paz has almost years behind bars. There have fully recovered from the destruction Odile brought to been at least three allegationsthe city. For me, the adventure of life after Odile con- of misappropriation or politiciz-tinues, as does the reminder that we shouldn’t take it ing of dispensas. The residence for granted. of the CSL civil defense director was searched after anonymousYours, tips were received and several Gari-Ellen items looted from Cabo stores were found there and recov-A special thank-you to La Paz’s boating community. ered. He has been arrested. InSeveral members spent days and nights after Hurri- total, 59 people have been de-cane Odile searching and later recovering the bodies tained but not arrested for be-of Guenter Trebbow, Simone Wood and Paul White- ing in possession of new boxedhouse. Our condolences to Guenter’s, Simone’s and goods that may or may notPaul’s family and friends. have been taken without being paid for. They join the dozens of people who have voluntarily presented themselves to return stolen items to the management of the stores looted during the spontaneous celebration of having survived Odile.

In the spirit of love and good- will towards members of the communities affected, the - na tion of Mexico and its northern neighbors have embraced Baja California Sur, sending our way food, medicines, clothing, water, baby items and gifts of cash. Recovery is well under way and the spirit that makes Mexico great lives on.

Contributing writer Les Carmo- na bakes artisan breads and pas- tries for his shop Pan D’Les bakery while assimilating to the pace of La Paz. The bakery is on Madero between Constitucion and 5 de Mayo. October 29th, 2014 18 Municipality of La Paz Property Tax Discounts on Now

TBC

Do you want to get a jump on the New Year and pay your 2015 property taxes early?

The City of La Paz has announced its temporary tax discount program for the months of October and November 2014. This temporary discount will run until the end of the November 2014. If you pay your 2015 property taxes before November 30th, 2014, in one payment, you will receive a 30% discount on the total amount as well as an additional 5% discount. The Mu- nicipality of La Paz offices are located on Blvd. Luis Donaldo Co- losio and the corner of de los De-

bought a tamale, and a sugar skull, stop and watch the crowd. The young cool crowd has artful- ly painted only half their faces. And the “sexy dead” have black veils, crimson roses and almost see-through dresses. There is one I call Bianca Jagger with her gorgeous black lace dress, silver tipped cane and cigar.

We love this celebration, and we mix Halloween with Day of the Dead. My 3D cardboard pop-up Day of the Dead altar has been dedicated over the years to my friend Gina Holguin, Paul New- man and Mary Travers and this year I will honor my grandson, Thomas Fogel.

And every year we attend with anticipation and are never disappointed. It is at Teatro de La Ciudad on November 1-2. My beloved and I attend at least two times. We invite friends over for pumpkin soup and then head out to town. It has become a 19 October 29th, 2014 Municipality of La Paz Property Tax Discounts on Now

TBC portistas. Offices hours are from 8:00 am until 4:00 pm, Monday Do you want to get a jump on to Friday. On Saturdays, you can the New Year and pay your 2015 pay your bill from 9:00 am until property taxes early? 1:00 pm.

The City of La Paz has an- Have your clave catastra or ca- nounced its temporary tax dis- dastral number handy to help count program for the months you with the process at Servi- of October and November 2014. cios Catastrales offices on the This temporary discount will run second floor of the Municipality until the end of the November of La Paz building. This number 2014. If you pay your 2015 prop- can be found on your notary pa- erty taxes before November pers of the properties you have 30th, 2014, in one payment, you in La Paz. will receive a 30% discount on the total amount as well as an Also, you can head to the City additional 5% discount. The Mu- of La Paz webpage www.lapaz. nicipality of La Paz offices are lo- gob.mx to make your payment cated on Blvd. Luis Donaldo Co- on-line. Payments on-line help losio and the corner of de los De- you avoid the sometimes-long line-ups that can be found at the end of the month. On-line payments can be done safely from your own home.

Day of the Dead in La Paz... special holiday for us. Continues from page 5 bought a tamale, and a sugar Get there early (just before skull, stop and watch the crowd. dark) parking is scarce you will The young cool crowd has artful- have to park and walk. ly painted only half their faces. And the “sexy dead” have black The theater is located on Na- veils, crimson roses and almost varro between Altamirano and see-through dresses. There is Heroes de Independencia. one I call Bianca Jagger with her gorgeous black lace dress, silver You can read more of Susan’s La tipped cane and cigar. Paz slice of life musings on her blog: www.mexicomusings.com We love this celebration, and we mix Halloween with Day of the Day of the Dead (Día de los Dead. My 3D cardboard pop-up Muertos) is a Mexican holiday Day of the Dead altar has been celebrated throughout Mexico. dedicated over the years to my The holiday focuses on gather- friend Gina Holguin, Paul New- ings of family and friends to pray man and Mary Travers and this for and remember friends and year I will honor my grandson, family members who have died. Thomas Fogel. Traditions connected with the holiday include building private And every year we attend with altars honoring the deceased anticipation and are never dis- using sugar skulls, marigolds, appointed. It is at Teatro de La and the favorite foods and bev- Ciudad on November 1-2. My be- erages of the departed and vis- loved and I attend at least two iting graves with these as gifts. times. We invite friends over for They also leave possessions of pumpkin soup and then head the deceased. out to town. It has become a October 29th, 2014 20 After the Hurricane

been times when I was frustrat- By Susan Fogel ed almost beyond endurance. And there have been many more As I have said to many friends, times when the graciousness life in La Paz is segmented into and consideration of strangers life BEFORE the hurricane and has touched me. Never have I life AFTER the hurricane. What been more proud to say that I occurred before Odile came was a Paceña than during these roaring through resides in the weeks after the hurricane. distant past. We have all been changed by And so here I am back at the the fierceness of this storm, helm of Prestige Property the devastation, and the loss. Group, after the hurricane. What We have survived and will come went before is ancient history. I back strong and healthy. thought I was going to retire, and sit atop the hill in Haciendas So dear sellers and buyers, Pres- Palo Verde and write my mem- tige Property Group is still here oirs. Things change, and smart to serve you. I am honored by people adapt and grow with the all of you, my sellers that have change. It isn’t always easy. put your faith in me to sell your homes. And I am grateful for After the hurricane, when it was you, the buyers that helped safe to poke our heads outside sellers move on to their next and survey the damage, we adventure. We are here to help were shocked. We wondered you with your Mexican adven- if La Paz could recover by the ture. Our website is new and re- peak of high season in January. freshed. Our marketing online, We wondered if the Los Cabos in print, and in the social media airport would ever re-open. continues. We have buyers on With grit and determination, the way, and many more talking our beautiful city of La Paz has to us online in preparation for bounced back. There is work to their trip to La Paz. be done, but we are up and running. With a gargantuan effort, After the hurricane, even though the Los Cabos airport is open. their homes and businesses Our precious tourists are arriv- were flooded and damaged, ing daily. many of my colleagues brought water and food to those who After the hurricane, my Beloved were affected the most by a and I stood in line waiting for our natural disaster—the poor. Nev- chance to shop in Chedraui. We er have I been more proud to watched many people exit, but be part of an organization like no one was being allowed in. AMPI/MLS then I am today. Then a young woman employee came out accompanied by a po- Odile, the Black Swan, may have lice officer and announced that knocked us to our knees. We they would be closing for two were never down for the count, hours while they restocked. No and we are back, doing busi- one yelled abusive words, no ness, and welcoming visitors to one tried to push their way in. our beautiful city. We shrugged, said “gracias” and left. I did not ex- pect any different re- action from my neighbors. But, I was still so proud of the civility of La Paz. We saw lines of hot, tired people waiting for ice, gas, and food. No one groused, pushed, shoved—they waited patiently.

I have lived here for 14 years and there have