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From Gin to Fabric Cotton Gins Like This One Are Mostly Located in Cotton Regions to Cut Transport Costs

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From Gin to Fabric Cotton Gins Like This One Are Mostly Located in Cotton Regions to Cut Transport Costs CHAPTER 7 Processing: from Gin to Fabric Cotton gins like this one are mostly located in cotton regions to cut transport costs GINNING Cotton gins are factories that complete the first stage of processing cotton – separating the lint from the seed. Gin is short for en-“gin”. In Australia gins are located in cotton areas to avoid costly transport. Cotton is pressed under Before the gin was invented, the lint and seed were separated very high pressure by by hand. It took one person a whole day to separate only half a bale press into bales a kilo of the lint from the cottonseed. Modern gins can separate weighing 227kg each and bale about 230,000 kilograms of cotton in one day. THE GINNING PROCESS The seed cotton arrives at the gin in round bales or modules. The first step in the ginning process is where the cotton is vacuumed into tubes that carry it to a dryer. Cotton must be ginned with a moisture level of 5%. The cotton is dried out if it is too wet or water is added if it is too dry to ensure the correct moisture level. Next, the cotton goes through several Gin is short stages of cleaning equipment to remove leaf trash, sticks, for en-“gin” dirt and other foreign matter. After cleaning, the cotton is then ready for separation in the gin stand. The gin stand removes the seed from the lint. In Australia, most cotton is ginned with saw gins where fast moving circular saws grip the fibres and pull them through narrow slots. LOCATION The raw fibre, now called lint, has any remaining trash removed • and makes its way through another series of pipes to a press where it is squashed into bales under very high pressure. OF COTTON Each bale weighs 227kg. Samples are taken from each bale Cotton being fed GINS for classing and the bales are wrapped in stretchy white cotton into the gin fabric to protect the lint. They are now ready for transport to photo by Andrew Patton one of the ports for shipping into overseas markets. PRODUCTS FROM GINNING WHEN THE SEED COTTON IS PROCESSED IN THE GIN, THREE PRODUCTS RESULT — COTTONSEED, LINT AND TRASH. SEED LINT TRASH THE SEEDS MAKE UP ABOUT LINT MAKES UP APPROXIMATELY THE REMAINING 10% OF THE SEED 55% OF THE SEED COTTON WEIGHT 35% OF THE SEED COTTON COTTON IS CLASSED AS WASTE THAT COMES FROM THE FARMS. WEIGHT. ONCE THE LINT HAS PRODUCT OR TRASH. COTTON THEY ARE VERY VALUABLE AND BEEN SEPARATED IT IS COMPACTED FIBRE WASTE CAN BE USED ARE USED FOR A VARIETY OF INTO BALES FOR EASY IN ETHANOL MANUFACTURING PRODUCTS SUCH AS OIL, PLASTICS, TRANSPORTING. THE COTTON OR IN PRODUCTS THAT CLEAN UP STOCK FEED, COSMETICS AND BALES ARE THEN MOSTLY OIL SPILLS. IT CAN ALSO BE USED MARGARINE. THEY MIGHT ALSO TRANSPORTED DIRECTLY TO AS A FERTILISER. BE USED AS SEEDS FOR THE NEXT AUSTRALIAN PORTS FOR EXPORT COTTON CROP. TO OTHER COUNTRIES TO FURTHER PROCESS (SPIN) THE COTTON. Cotton Lint Fuzzy Seed Bales of Lint photo by Pete Johnson Cotton Trash COTTONSEED VERSUS OTHER OILSEEDS World Oilseeds Production source: USDA PROCESSING 500 COTTONSEED 450 400 Cottonseed is separated from the After the linters are removed, the hull (the hard 350 lint during the ginning process. shell covering the seed) is removed. Inside the hull is the kernel – the really valuable part of the 300 Before the seed can be crushed for seed. To produce oil, the kernels are flattened oil extraction or used for planting using rollers and then cooked at very high 250 future crops, it must be delinted. temperatures. 200 This means removing any excess The kernels are squeezed and crushed and the Million of tons lint still attached to the seed. oil flows out. This oil is then processed and 150 refined further, turning it into a light yellow, These final short fibres (linters) are tasteless, odourless oil. Cottonseed oil is used in 100 used to make many industrial and the manufacture of products such as vegetable 50 domestic products. oil, margarine, soap and cosmetics. The excess hulls and leftover kernels can be 0 used to feed animals such as pigs, cattle and poultry. 2003/04 2004/05 2005/06 2006/07 2007/08 2008/09 2009/10 2010/11 2011/12 2012/13 Sunflower seed Soybean Raspeseed Cottonseed Peanut CLASSING AFTER THE COTTON IS TRADITIONAL GINNED, A SAMPLE IS TAKEN FROM EACH BALE CLASSING AND SENT AWAY METHOD TO CLASSING ROOMS TO The more traditional method of testing cotton quality involves using specially HAVE IT GRADED FOR ITS trained ‘classers’ who manually examine the cotton fibres. This testing involves QUALITY. THE COTTON the classer taking a sample from each bale of cotton and assessing it by: FIBRE IS SORTED INTO Colour (bright or dull, white or grey) DIFFERENT QUALITY-BASED GRADES (OR CLASSES). Trash content (the amount of stalk, leaf or dirt) THE HIGHER THE CLASS, Character (whether the sample has a smooth or lumpy appearance) THE BETTER THE QUALITY Staple (length of fibre) OF THE COTTON FIBRE, Andrew Hammond, cotton classer, Dunavant Enterprises Strength of the fibres AND THE HIGHER THE PRICE Manual classers still largely determine the leaf, extraneous matter and preparation THAT WILL BE PAID. grades of cotton. MODERN CLASSING Grading categories are set in each individual country and are revised and METHOD - updated, usually on an annual basis. HVI TESTING In Australia, the classing grades are High Volume Instrument (HVI) testing is a machine- determined by the Australian Cotton based method that can quickly and accurately Shippers Association. check the quality and exact value of cotton fibres. The technique originated in the USA and Australian Australia has an enviable reputation on companies have also contributed to the world’s the world market as a reliable supplier knowledge about HVI testing. of very high quality cotton, and can An HVI test print-out includes information relating to command a premium price for this the following areas: reason. A recent study found new Colour grade (relating to any visible impurities varieties from CSIRO’s cotton plant and the degree of whiteness) breeding program had improved yield, Length (the price of cotton is roughly proportional to staple length. Australian crops HVI quality and are showing superior typically produce 28mm (1.15 inch) staple if textile performance attributes. irrigated, but shorter from a dryland crop). Micronaire (the fineness of the cotton that affects how quickly it can be spun) Trash and dust (the number of trash and dust particles that are in the cotton) Strength (if the cotton is stronger it can be used in smaller quantities) Length (fibre length) At the end of the classing process each 227kg bale of cotton carries a classing description. This grade will decide whether the cotton is sold for a higher or lower price, known as premium or discount. THE QUALITY HVI Classing machinery OF THE AUSTRALIAN can accurately test for ● MEDIUM 41% ● PREMIUM 24% a number of cotton COTTON CROP ● 4% ● 20% quality parametres LOWER HIGH ● LOW 11% SHIPPING SPINNING TO OPENING, BLENDING PRODUCE YARN AND CLEANING THE COTTON 1 The bales are laid down in a row (called a laydown), opened and blended through a range of TO MARKET machines. This ensures a consistent blend of Once the cotton is ginned and pressed into bales it is fibres. The blended fibre is then put through more loaded on to trucks and trains and sent to port for shipping, machines to loosen the fibre tufts and to remove mostly to overseas markets. Over 99% of Australia’s leaf, sticks, boll parts, bark and seed fragments. cotton is sent overseas, with only a very small spinning industry left in Australia – it’s almost non-existent. Nan Yang Textile Mills Opening Cleaning Australia is the fourth largest exporter of cotton in the world Historically, cotton was spun by hand using spinning wheels – this practice is no longer used to produce commercial quantities of cotton yarns, but the method is still practiced as an artisan craft by some. Cotton arrives at a spinning mill in bales. Most often these mills CARDING process a range of different types of fibres including cotton and Next, the fibre is fed into a carding machine which man-made fibres including polyester and nylon. 2 is often referred to as “the heart of the spinning At the textile mill, the cotton is put through a number of processes, mill.” The carding machine individualises, aligns depending on the setup in the spinning mill and the desired quality and further cleans the fibres before pulling them of the yarn to be produced. into a single, continuous, loose rope called sliver. Cotton is warehoused before it is shipped The main ports for Australian cotton are in Brisbane and Sydney. The cotton bales are warehoused, and once they’re sold and ready to be shipped are loaded into large shipping containers. Cotton Carding The main customers for Australian cotton are spinning mills located in south east Asia – China is Australia’s largest buyer of cotton. Cotton Carding Machine AT THE TEXTILE MILL, DRAWING ROVING THE COTTON IS PUT Drawing is the process where the fibres are In preparation for ring spinning, the sliver is blended, straightened and the number of fibres condensed into a finer strand know as a roving, THROUGH A NUMBER OF 3 reduced to achieve a desired density. It also 5 before it can be spun into yarn. The roving frame improves the evenness of the sliver. draws out the sliver to a thickness of a few PROCESSES, DEPENDING ON millimetres and inserts a small amount of twist to keep the fibres together.
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