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Lower Saxony

Lower Saxony

593 9am- h 9am-6pm h 314 044) % ( information 1234 5111, % ( (Schillerstrasse 23; per hr €3; (Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse 4; (per 1/3 days €9/15) Available from the from the (per 1/3 days €9/15) Available 304 31; Marienstrasse 37) (cnr Friesenstrasse & Eichstrasse; per wash 110; Raschplatz) on the Beneath the overpass % 6am-11pm) ( % ( h 10am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun) The Herrenhäuser Gärten are situated situated are Gärten The Herrenhäuser room reservations 1234 555; www.hannover.de, www room reservations 1234 555; www.hannover.de, .hannover-tourism.de; Ernst-August-Platz 8; Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) EMERGENCY EMERGENCY Medical emergency service Police INTERNET ACCESS Hannover Teleklick h LAUNDRY Waschsalon MEDICAL SERVICES Hospital MONEY and a late-opening several ATMs are There Reisebank in the Hauptbahnhof. POST Main post office TOURIST INFORMATION from the also available are brochures Tourist ). p594 Neues Rathaus (see Hannover Tourismus city centre. The centre contains one of the the contains of one centre The city centre. in , pedestrianised areas largest Georgstrassefocusing on and Bahnhof- Bahnhofstrassestrasse. heads southwest and Georgstrasse from the Hauptbahnhof, via the Kröpcke from Steintor runs west–east a subterra- There’s to Georgsplatz. square Bahn- strip running below nean shopping to just from the Hauptbahnhof hofstrasse, called the Niki de Saint Kröpcke, south of Promenade. Phalle The the city centre. about 4km northwest of fairgrounds, the main trade Messegelände, text, (see in the city’s southeast boxed are p596 ). Information DISCOUNT CARDS HannoverCard north side of the Hauptbahnhof. 8pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) tourist unlimited public transport office, this card offers Group etc. admission to museums and discounted or free tickets for five available, too. €3.50; LOWER SAXONY •• has written it off as having ‘the ‘the it offhaving as has written 0511 / pop 515,800 0511 / A few years ago, Hanover was hoping to was hoping to ago, Hanover years A few However, things aren’t really so grim up so grim up really However, things aren’t It has links with Britain through a series and 50% the centre In 1943, up to 80% of HANOVER north in Lower Saxony’s state capital. The capital. state north in Lower Saxony’s The Elec- In 1714 the eldest son of marriages. of as the Opernhaus such gems, city’s prewar and the (Opera House), the Marktkirche Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). as the host world attention of be at the centre Expo 2000. However, only 18 million visi- of half the number turned up – less than tors the 12 German been one of Having expected. Football World Cup host cities for the FIFA the city something new in 2006 at least gives to boast about. Orientation (central train station) The Hauptbahnhof the of edge on the northeastern is located Der Spiegel the world of parties’, and the rest most boring the not particularly the host of knows it as sexyCeBit show. communications trade Its ba- greenery. of city also boasts acres are (gardens) Gärten roque Herrenhäuser a sparkly Niki featuring a mini-Versailles, The compact centre, Grotto. de Saint Phalle in a medieval only partially reconstructed WWII bombing, is adjoined to style after and you forest, the east by the Eilenreide museums to the en route can enjoy a few (lake). southern Maschsee History establishedwas around 1100 and Hanover der Löwe Heinrich of became the residence that century. ) later p619 text, (see boxed city, it developed into a An early Hanseatic power prosperous seat a major royalty and of by the Reformation. a granddaughter of Hanover, Sophie of tress Scotland), VI of England (James I of James I while ascended the British throne as George This British– simultaneously ruling Hanover. German until 1837. union lasted city was destroyed by Allied the entire of plan included cre- bombing. The rebuilding half-timbered reconstructed ating sections of the houses and painstakingly rebuilding lonelyplanet.com % comedians a bad rap. Local gets Hanover between ‘the Autobahn exit dismiss it as Walsrode’. News magazine and Göttingen Lüneburg Bergen-Belsen Hamelin Hanover AREA: 47,613 SQ KM 47,613 SQ KM AREA:

„ Walk to an East Frisian Walk to an East Frisian Fall head over heels for heels for head over Fall Test your driving skills at Test Travel back in time to the back in time to the Travel Admire the Niki Admire de Saint Pay your respects to Anne Frank at your respects Pay Off-beat Experience Off-beat Experience ) p637 island across the seabed at low tide ( Green Haven Haven Green Herrenhäuser grotto at Hanover’s Phalle Gärten ( p595 ) Living History town of Piper’s Renaissance, in the Pied ) p603 Hamelin ( Quirky Old Town Adrenaline Rush Adrenaline ) p622 theme park ( Volkswagen’s Autostadt in Wolfsburg ) p611 ( the wobbly city of Lüneburg Pilgrimage Pilgrimage the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp ( p610 ) p610 concentration camp ( the Bergen-Belsen

POPULATION: 10.7 MILLION 10.7 MILLION POPULATION:

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „ With a varied landscape of coast, river plains, moor and heath, there’s also plenty of stuff for also heath, there’s plains, moor and With a varied landscape of coast, river Culture vultures will be kept happy, with an early example of Daniel Libeskind’s vultures strikingCulture The capital, Hanover, has a workaholic capital, Hanover, the as a host of trade fairs, especially The reputation

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where Deutschland meets the North Deutschland meets that opportunitywhere Sea, and Lower Saxony offers too. nature lovers. In how many places can you say that you’ve walked Head north to an island? In how many places can you say that you’ve to lovers. nature it’s launched the ‘world’s first 24-hour museum’ (of sorts).it’s launched the ‘world’s first 24-hour museum’ young and old. is so keen about its art Plus, beautiful Osnabrück’s Felix-Nussbaum-Haus. in architecture ing the archaeological site of a Roman defeat at Osnabrück’s ‘Varusschlacht’ will appeal to will at Osnabrück’s ‘Varusschlacht’ Roman defeat of a site ing the archaeological and families. Cycling the Fairy-Tale Road to Hamelin’s engaging Renaissance museum or visit- Renaissance Road to Hamelin’s engaging Cycling the Fairy-Tale and families. centre Phaeno, and a park of life-size dinosaur models make it a perfect state for relaxation dinosaur models make it a perfect for relaxation of life-size and a park state Phaeno, centre enormous communications show, CeBit. But cute medieval towns, cutting-edge But cute science show, CeBit. enormous communications Herrenhäuser Gardens, or even pay a sobering visit to Bergen-Belsen. pay a sobering visit Gardens, or even Herrenhäuser over an obstacle course in Wolfsburg’s Autostadt theme park, smell the roses in Hanover’s the roses in Hanover’s theme park, smell Autostadt an obstacle course in Wolfsburg’s over tions, visitors can certainly mix it up in Germany’s second biggest state: steer a Volkswagentions, visitors can certainly steer biggest state: mix it up in Germany’s second Instead, it presents a mosaic, a panoply, a potpourri. With an array of wildly different attrac- a potpourri. With an array of wildly different a mosaic, a panoply, it presents Instead, big set-piece or bold image of some fellow states, but that doesn’t make it uninteresting. doesn’t make but that it uninteresting. states, or bold image of some fellow big set-piece would describe as ‘Middle Germany’. Yes, Niedersachsen, as it’s called in German, lacks the Niedersachsen, as it’s called in would describe as ‘Middle Yes, Germany’. Confusingly, Lower Saxony lies in the north and evinces the sort pollsters opinion of character Lower Saxony Confusingly, Lower Saxony © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 592 LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY (ad-

595 Berg- when approximately 9am-7pm, later Niki de Saint the gardens h Wilhelm-Busch-

(Tropical Rainforest

h were first in- first were 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to , with its great as- , with its great 11am-noon & 3-5pm Mon- h (admission €3, combined combined (admission €3, (Big Fountain; the

h sculptures . Inside there’s a fairly gim- . Inside there’s Regenwaldhaus (adult/concession €4/3; 1699 9916; www.wilhelm-busch-museum

(opened after her death in 2002) in 2002) her death after (opened (Water games;

containing a wealth of caricature, caricature, containing a wealth of Grosse Fontäne is the centrepiece of the experience. the experience. of is the centrepiece Grosser Garten % ( 126 0420; www.regenwaldhaus.de; Herrenhäuser Herrenhäuser 126 0420; www.regenwaldhaus.de;

(admission €2, combined admission with Grosser Mar) Mar)

– % Amid the lake-dotted Georgengarten Amid the lake-dotted De Saint Indeed the Nanas helped make North of the Grosser the lies the Garten North of With its fountains, neat flowerbeds, With its fountains, neat flowerbeds, garten Garten Apr-early €4, child free Oct) flora from around the world. sortment of is the Also here on weekends in summer) virtual ‘journey’ to the micky and contrived pleasant in more much Amazon. Things are the attached tropical greenhouse. you’ll find the mission free), Museum .de; adult/concession €4.50/2.50; 6pm Sat & Sun) Honoré Daumier including works by Busch, and William Hogarth. DIE NANAS The city government complaint when these was of nearly 20,000 letters inundated with earth-mama three stalled beside the in 1974. Now, River ‘So- the voluptuous and fluorescent-coloured and ‘Caroline’phie’, ‘Charlotte’ by French among the are artist Niki de Saint Phalle and most loved, city’s most recognisable, landmarks. her work will famous. DevoutPhalle fans of trip to Leibnizufer (U-Bahn: find that a direct and coloured tile walls of the the of tile walls and coloured Phalle Grotto the artist’s a magical showcase of provide Nanas one day outshine Die work that could (see ). below the 300- lawns, and shaped trimmed hedges year-old Berggartenadmission with Apr-early €4, child free Oct, free mid-Oct entrance, a maze near the northern There’s while the tallest in Europe) at the southern end jets are up to 80m high.water summer, there In Wasserspiele Fri, & Sun Apr-early 11am-noon & 2-5pm Sat Oct) synchronised. During the all fountains are Illuminations call for exact Jun-Aug, times) 10pm Thu-Tue atmospherically lit at night. and fountains are summer concerts, Shakes- are there Meanwhile the Call or check dramas and more. pearean for details. website Herrenhäuser House; Strasse 4a; adult/concession €4.50/1.50; B192 4 or 4 or 50 km b 30 miles Schwerin B81 Magdeburg Wismar A20 9am-sunset; A24 1684 7576, 12345-333; WESTERN B105 h POMERANIA Neu Darchau SAXONY-ANHALT % MECKLENBURG- ( NP Hochharz 0 0 Wolfsburg Lübeck truly rank among Hano- Schöningen Elbufer Wolfenbüttel Bad Harzburg Naturpark LOWER SAXONY •• Hanover Wittingen Bad Lauterberg Lauenburg B4 THURINGIA A395

Harz Mountains Duderstadt Osterode Winsen NP A2 A1 Wienhausen Lüneburg Celle B243 Munster Bergen Herrenhäuser Gärten Belsen Bad Göttingen On the one hand, the Grosser Garten (Large On the one hand, the Grosser Garten Soltau Einbeck SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN Gandersheim Lüneburger Heide B27 Bergen-Belsen Memorial HERRENHÄUSER GÄRTEN HERRENHÄUSER GÄRTEN Largely at Versailles, modelled on the gardens the www.herrenhaeuser-gaerten.de; Gärten)5 to Herrenhäuser Garden), Berggarten (Mountain Garden) and prime Garden), are (Georgian Georgengarten calls itself a city ‘in why Hanover examples of On the other, the statues, fountainsgreen’. to today. Comparing the models from 1939 of the dramatic extent home and 1945 drives WWII devastation. lonelyplanet.com A7 ver’s most memorable attractions. You need ver’s to do them justice, but they hours a couple of treats. combine a couple of A7 A7 10am-

River A1 A23 A2 Airport Hanover

Elbe Schloss h Tostedt Pattensen Neustadt Hanover Fallingbostel Bodenwerder HESSE Buxtehude Marienburg Münden Walsrode Zeven

Nienburg

Hessisch- Bremervörde River Hamelin

Holzminden lonelyplanet.com

Bückeburg Wesser Dino Park A27 Ottbergen Münchehagen Bad Karlshafen Stadthagen Weyhe Rinteln Worpswede Syke Minden Herford Bremerhaven Löhne A44

Weser River Sulingen Bassum A27 A33 Paderborn Twistringen Wildeshausen Bielefeld Rastede inside its green dome. There are are There dome. inside its green Melle A30 Mellum (elevator; adult/concession €2.50/1.50;

Wadden Sea National Park Lower Saxony Osnabrück Kalkriese Lippstadt Friesoythe A1 A29 Westerstede Sande Harlesiel In the downstairs lobby are four city mod- four are lobby In the downstairs A29 A2 A33 for a quick 4.2km, do-it-yourself tour of the the tour of for a quick 4.2km, do-it-yourself city’s main highlights. Hamm Münster- Osnabrück Airport Ahlen it’s a novelty taking a lift that slants to stay it’s a novelty within the dome, it’s only on descent that swing. The cabin any gravitational you feel people at a time, so queues only five can take inevitable. are Ages from the Middle Hanover els showing NEUES RATHAUS NEUES RATHAUS your bearings in An excellent way to get is to visit the Neues Rathaus (built Hanover 98m to the top in the in 1901–13) and travel curved lift 6pm Apr-Nov) and while several viewing platforms here, Menden Münster Haselünne Papenburg A28 Dortmund A2 Bensersiel Lingen Meppen Norden A1 Weener (red line) line) (red Nessmersiel Bad Bochum Red Thread Red Thread Bentheim Witten A31 Nordhorn Norddeich Gelsenkirchen East Frisian Islands East Frisian Emmen A1 A43 A31 Düsseldorf Bottrop Almelo NORTH RHINE-WESTPHALIA Roter Faden Roter Borkum A7 Enschede Bocholt Wesel A31 Oberhausen A30 Duisburg Krefeld A28 N E T H E R L A N D S Arnhem Venlo

(€2), available from the tourist office, the tourist office, from (€2), available LOWER SAXONY •• Hanover •• Hanover SAXONY LOWER Nijmegen

A40

A1

LOWER SAXONY LOWER A57

A3

Sights & Activities Sights & Activities FADEN ROTER a city has painted The Steintor to the southwest of the station and of to the southwest Steintor beenLudwigstrasse partly have to its north but it’s still a by clubs and hotels, reclaimed vigilant in thesegood idea to stay reasonably at night. areas presence there, but you should still use but you should com- there, presence mon sense. districts around The red-light The area around the Hauptbahnhof feels a feels Hauptbahnhof around the area The police a huge dark; there’s bit dodgy after Dangers & Annoyances Dangers & Annoyances 594 on pavements around the centre. Follow it Follow it the centre. around on pavements the multilingual with the help of Guide LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER A50 LOWER SAXONY

A2 B3 C2 B3 A2 C3 C3 C1 C1 C1 C3 A3 C1 A2 C3 C4 597 42 44 45 46 47 48 49 51 52 37 38 39 40 41 43 50 you see 11am-6pm 11am-6pm Memorial 1684 2120; 1684 2120; h % International International (

fireworks festival , which includes includes , which (1350) was bashed by . Donated by sister city by sister . Donated , where you’ll see, where every- Waterloo Memorial Kestner Museum SHOPPING TRANSPORT Café Caldo ...... Café Konrad...... Diablo Latino...... Eve Club...... (see 41) GOP Varieté...... Heartbreak Hotel...... Intensivstation...... (see 42) Kiez Club...... Neues Theater...... Opernhaus...... Osho Diskothek...... Palo Palo...... Pavilion...... Sansibar...... (see 42) Schauspielhaus...... Flea Market...... Central Station...... Marlene Bar & Theater am Bühne...... Aegi...... peace bell Maschsee festival , held around Ascension Day in Day in , held around Ascension on Breite Strasse near the corner on Breite B1 B3 C1 C1 D4 C2 C4 B2 C3 C3 D3 B3 C3 B3 C4 B3 B4 C3 A2 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Decorative arts through the ages are are through arts the ages Decorative angel The winged Festivals & Events & EventsFestivals The annual drinking, performances and an enormous display, runs annually in early fireworks August. The international is Gärten and competition at Herrenhäuser come also another big summer event. People from afar for the to Hanover Jazz Festival May/June. covered at the at the covered €4/3, FriTrammplatz 3; adult/concession free; Wed) & Thu-Sun, to 8pm Tue Bauhaus-stylething from to a very cutlery and Egyptian Greek of collection impressive antiquities. WAR MEMORIALS city so devastated not surpris- by war, it’s In a ing to find a a steel-crossHiroshima, it lies inside to Our Dead 6 August at 8.15am, Every Osterstrasse. of the atomic detonation and time of the date from both cities at Hiroshima, a delegation The neighbouring to ring the bell. meets here Aegidienkirche Memorial artillery in 1943. the Neues the Altstadt of and west south of Rathaus the German commemorates forces who fought at Waterloo. Altes Oskar- 701 200; 701 200; is also a is also a . Having . Having % EATING DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT Lühmanns Hotel am Rathaus ... Besitos...... Biesler...... Georxx...... Hiller...... Holländische Kakaostube ...... Maestro...... Markthalle...... Mr Phung Kabuki ...... Brauhaus Ernst August ...... Der Gartensaal ...... HeimW...... Anzeiger Hochhaus...... Etap Hotel ...... Hanns Lilje-Haus ...... Hotel Alpha ...... Hotel Königshof am Funkturm .. Hotel Stella ...... Kastens Hotel Luisenhof ...... B3 B3 B3 A3 A2 B4 B3 B4 A3 A4 C1 B3 C2 D3 B2 D1 C2 Leibnizhaus 5 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 10 11 12 13 14 16 17 15 lining Kramerstrasse lining Kramerstrasse (Kestner Society; (1649–64), a hall origi- (1649–64), LOWER SAXONY •• Hanover (Oskar Winter Fountain). If Fountain). Winter If (Oskar Ballhof (1349–59) in the market square square in the market (1349–59) (begun 1455) across the market, and and across the market, (begun 1455) 10am-7pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu) 10am-7pm Tue, half-timbered houses In front of the Leibnizhaus is the In front of However, the city re-created an entire row row an entire However, the city re-created Teleklick Hannover...... SLEEPING SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Aegidienkirche Memorial...... Altes Rathaus ...... Ballhof...... Die Nanas...... Kestner Gesellschaft ...... Kestner Museum...... Leibnizhaus...... (see 13) Marktkirche...... Neues Rathaus...... Oskar-Winter-Brunnen...... Peace Bell...... (see 5) Waterloo Memorial...... City Hotel am City Hotel Flamme ...... CVJM City Hotel ...... INFORMATION Hannover Tourismus ...... Hospital...... Waschsalon...... Thielenplatz ...... has original elements, as do both the elements, as do both has original Rathaus the nearby 17th-century badminton-type nally built for games. of The and Burgstrasse Marktkirche. near the the Renaissance façade of the house once the home was reconstruction; Gottfried mathematician and philosopher of (1646–1716). Wilhelm Leibniz Winter-Brunnen and turn the small brass ring a wish you make times, local three embedded in the ironwork has it that the wish will come true. lore MUSEUMS OTHER for the listings It’s always worth checking Kestner Gesellschaft Goseriede 11; adult/concession €5/2.50; www.kestner.org; h they Klee before and Paul Wassily Kandinsky became famous, the society is still originating Its wonderfully tour Europe. shows that later once a were light, premises high-ceilinged bathhouse. lonelyplanet.com ALTSTADT of but parts postwar fake, it is a of Some Altstadt look (old town) still Hanover’s Gothic quaint. The red-brick, appealingly Marktkirche exhibited works by Otto Dix, Georg Grosz, works by Otto Dix, Georg exhibited

2

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(600m); Congress Leisewitz (400m); Stadtpark (1.3km) Uhlemeyerstr

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43 48 PelikanViertel (3km) Volgersweg To Arabella Sheraton 0172-541 5525; adult/child €3/1.50, tour tour 0172-541 5525; adult/child €3/1.50, Augustenstr Warmbüchen- 15

chstr

Thielenplatz Aegidientorplatz , while in-line skaters glide by by glide , while in-line skaters Meile Lister Prinzenstr str % ( 49 26

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35 platz Rasch- Str 47

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30 Joachimstr Theaterstr Sophienstr

Raschplatzho ferry Lemförder % Messegelände (9.5km)

Expo Grounds (7.5km); Hauptbahnhof 39

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plies the lake from Easter to October in in from Easter to October plies the lake 27 Georgswall May-Aug) 21 Meile Lister To Hotel Wiehberg (4.5km); Friedastr 32

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16 Galerie 52

Luisenstr str Bleichenstr

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there’s a free swimming beach, or beach, swimming a free there’s ( trees. under the neighbouring from in front of the Hauptbahnhof to the to the the Hauptbahnhof in front of from stop. Sprengelmuseum/Maschsee MASCHSEE by the unemployedbuilt lake, artificial This Nazi-led public works the earliest in one of spot for boating is now a favourite projects, It’s certainlyand swimming. most central the hour’s walk away; otherwiseat just half an take bus 131 to Sprengelmuseum/Maschsee. sailing, pedal and are good weather, and there southeast bank, On the rowing boats for hire. €6/3) lenstr Langensalzastr 44 Willy-Brandt-Allee 24

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Theodorstr Obere-Brenner-Str h c To Campingplatz LOWER SAXONY •• Hanover •• Hanover SAXONY LOWER Es Duvehof The pre-eminent fair today is CeBit, a telecommunications and office information gathering and office information gathering pre-eminentThe a telecommunications fair today is CeBit, in the city’s southeast, served by tram/U- are Messegelände, the main trade fairgrounds, The a full-serviceDuring major fairs there’s the airport tourist office at and an information pavilion for book ahead need to you really on accommodation means – and be prepared Pressure call in Hanover, room or hotel a private To organise Arnumer See (9.5km) Engel- bosteler Damm To Schwule Sau (1km)

Christuskirche Calenberger Str Calenberger To Faust (1.2km) ALL THE FUN OF THE TRADE FAIR ALL THE FUN OF THE TRADE FAIR for a trade fair or Coming to Hanover that organisers claim is ‘the largest trade show of any kind, anywhere in the world’. It’s held every trade show of any kind, in the world’. It’s held every claim is ‘the largest anywhere that organisers (More 1990s had as many as 800,000 attendees. March and during the dotcom boom of the late is Another biggie half a million visitors.) smaller crowds of around attracted shows have recent April. show in late Messe, an industrial Hannover Bahn Tram/U-Bahn 8 (and during fair times 18) as well as IC and ICE trains. 6 serves the eastern part near the former Expo site. of the fairgrounds ). p593 in addition to the main tourist office (see Information, at the fairgrounds, in Hildesheim,Celle Indeed some visitors choose to stay instead phenomenal price hikes too. and commute. in Hamburg, (both of which up their own prices during these times) or even Körnerstr Brühlstr had most hotels export 1947 in the midst of all the rubble from WWII. As fair was held in August The guests. beds for foreign to provide been destroyed, the mayor made an appeal to citizens available beds are about a third more people did, the money came and it’s become a tradition; than in hotels. offered) (the only time they’re flats at fair-time in private Allee HANOVER

2 3 1 4

Gärten (4km); Musiktheater Bad (5km) To Herrenhäuser Gustav-Bratke- To Café Glocksee (200m); Capitol (400m); Gig Neue Welt (800m) 300 works by Niki de Saint Phalle, a selection Phalle, 300 works by Niki de Saint bus 131 Take on show. is usually which of interior spaces are brilliant for displaying its brilliant for displaying its spaces are interior abstract and conceptual modern figurative, works by Nolde, Chagall art, including a few collection are the of At the core and Picasso. child under 12yr/concession €7/free/4; child under 12yr/concession €7/free/4; Sun, 10am-8pm Tue) It’s the building as much as the curatorial curatorial as the the building as much It’s puts the policy that Kurt3875; www.sprengel-museum.de; Schwitters Platz; adult/ SPRENGEL MUSEUM MUSEUM SPRENGEL until Saturday, when the extra attraction of a a of when the extra attraction until Saturday, the Nanas’ feet. place at takes flea market Markthalle Landtag) rewarding. Others could Landtag) could Others Markthalle rewarding. that case, that it?’ In thinking ‘Is be left wait 596

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300 8575; Sophienstrasse 2; mains €4.50-8) An eclectic mix of religious statues religious mix of An eclectic ) pnas % ( pn

pn Kastens Hotel Luisenhof Hotel am Funkturm Königshof Hotel Alpha low Japanese-style beds, setthat on rails so low Japanese-style TOP END TOP END Arabella Sheraton Pelikan arabellasheraton.com; Podbielskitrasse 145; €130-155; rooms of the dominate and plump cushions although the highthis luxury hotel, al- ceilings being cramped. It’s easy leviate of any feeling Set the place. to see on a why celebrities love in the suburbs, it feels factory site redeveloped with the renowned village, a hideaway like New York and Harry’s 5th Avenue restaurant next door, too. a fitness centre There’s bar. Pelikanstrasse. tram 9 to Take from €250; for, this well cared old. turned 150 years recently good for having a but there’s a timeless elegance, Rooms reflect spa and stylish new addition in the upper-level central location The extremely fitness centre. is another selling point. Eating RESTAURANTS Maestro of- restaurant atmospheric subterranean This buffet (€7) an all-you-can-eat vegetarian fers courtyard beer daily. Its tucked-away at lunch garden (ask the staff) in summer. is perfect guests can indulge in a little feng shui of their shui of in a little feng can indulge guests a in them. The hotel’s own by repositioning neighbourhood. leafy residential Friesenstrasse d €100- 65; s €70-110, .koenigshof-hannover.de; 125; Royce) (plus an old Rolls and ethnic sculptures roll your suitcase you as you greet the onto rambling abode has This here. carpets Persian – where wing out the back an older, cheaper and a modern wing – huge the bathrooms are ‘business’ ‘comfort’, with corporate-oriented The location is handy for rooms. and ‘deluxe’ the train station, sleazy. if somewhat Friesenstrasse 19; s/d €95/125; quirky in having Königshof Hotel is like however, the statues and decorations. Here, bucolic. sweeter and more are marionettes an Italian a trompe l’oeil piazza in of There’s lovely room and the rooms are the breakfast and homy. -luisenhof.de; Luisenstrasse 1-3; s €155-185, d €180-220, ste 1-3; s €155-185, d €180-220, Luisenstrasse -luisenhof.de; less grotty part of the same the Alpha the street, grotty part of less 1 or 2 d ; 326 268; www ) Pleasant if Deliciously ) % pn ( n pn 388 8004; www.cityhotel % 879 990; www.hotel-wiehberg 124 1698; www.hanns-lilje-haus (

811 2050; www.hotelstella.de; 811 2050; www.hotelstella.de; 360 70; www.cityhotelhannover.de; 360 70; www.cityhotelhannover.de; % % ( (

% ( LOWER SAXONY •• Hanover % (

No-one could take offence at the offence No-one could take Posters from the nearby Kestner Kestner from the nearby Posters ) ) The patterned carpets mean the The patterned n open onto balconies facing a large a large open onto balconies facing The rooms of this relaxed hotel- this relaxed The rooms of ) ni Lühmanns Hotel am Rathaus Hotel Wiehberg City Hotel Flamme Hotel Stella Hanns Lilje-Haus degree of comfort. of degree Friedrichswall.hotelamrathaus.de; 21; s €60-85, d €80-120, ste €150; .de; Wiehbergstrasse 55a; s/d €70/90; to Dorfstrasse) this historic villa could never be rooms of described as Zen. However, they do feature value indeed. MIDRANGE CVJM City Hotel candy-striped curtains and bed bases (eg, in some rooms) add a touch yellow and green to this quiet but central elegance and chic of Behotel. warned, however, that while doubles in size, the singles are adequate perfectly are a little too small. d €75-90, q €120-140; flamme.de; Lammstrasse 3; s €50-65, pn pension has an eating area courtyard, which internal the and glassed-in If you don’t like front wall. around the train station, they will pick area and you can forego for free, you up from there slightly if you wish to pay less. breakfast Adelheidstrasse; s/d from €60/80; with unspectacular, is a small hotel the Stella a big heart and decent-sized rooms (plus odd floor numbering and a jolting lift). With lug- U-Bahn it’s a short from the Haupt- ride gage, dropped your bags, but once you’ve bahnhof, you can easily walk into town. per .de; Knochenhauerstrasse 33; s/d from €65/80, breakfast person €6; in the most neutral decorated are which hotel, for spacious quite tones. However, they are a good a central establishment and offer such lonelyplanet.com two levels, with over split Some are rooms. hall level, cupboard at and the bathroom and Prices bed, desk and kitchenette. to the stairs pe- according to trade fair wildly fluctuate seasons quieter riods, but in excellent it’s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation Museum adorn the halls here, and the rooms Museum adorn the halls here, with lib- decorated tastefully are themselves blues and black, as well as reds, eral use of original art. Although the occasional bit of double-glazing on a busy street, the hotel’s noisekeeps at bay. recently renovated rooms of this church-run this church-run rooms of renovated recently Limburgstrasse 3; s €45-70, d €65-100; Limburgstrasse 3; s €45-70, d €65-100;

) ) Gran- pn Upmar- p 399 90; www % ( 327 691; www.smart lonelyplanet.com This garish but ) %

( 9 to Pelikanstrasse) 288 7940; www.hotel-leisewitz b ; % pni ( p

235 5570; www.etaphotel.com; Runde %

( Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation 1234 5555. % Etap Hotel GästeResidenz PelikanViertel Hotel Leisewitz City Hotel am Thielenplatz .gaesteresidenz-pelikanviertel.de; Pelikanstrasse 11; s €40-230, d €60-260, tr €80-280; this hotel, meets budget student residence ket complex alongside the Arabella Sheraton huge pleasant Ikea-ish very of has a wide range their butterfly wings, having been remodelled been remodelled wings, having their butterfly leather wall panels, in opulent style with red leaf-patternedblack-and-white wallpaper The rooms are wood laminate. and lots of but were refit, expecting a 1950s-style retro humble 1980s, no-irony-intended, previously when booking. the latest so check 11; s €50-90, d €75-115; .de; Leisewitzerstrasse of mishmash nies on acid alert! A psychedelic – – florals, stripes and checks patterns chintzy is crammed into a small space in this friendly, hate minimalism will of Fans family-run hotel. and is pleas- character it, but it’s got bags of To street. on a leafy residential antly located bus 128 to Plathnerstrasse. take here get Strasse 7; s/d €40/50; is not in particularly hotel comfortable chain salubrious but is handy for the surroundings, train station. cityhotel.de; Thielenplatz 2; s €40-50, d €50-60; This central place is metamorphosing from beauty. boutique’ to ‘budget boring cheapie spread already and bar have The reception

05101-3534; 05101-3534; ) In a pleasant In a pleasant % ( i 3 or 7 to Fischerhof)

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131 7674; www.jugendherberge.de/jh pni % (

LOWER SAXONY •• Hanover •• Hanover SAXONY LOWER The pre-eminent fair today is CeBit, a telecommunications and office information gathering office information gathering and pre-eminentThe a telecommunications is CeBit, fair today city’s southeast, served in the by tram/ are the main trade fairgrounds, Messegelände, The a full-serviceDuring major fairs there’s tourist office at the airport pavilion and an information for need to book ahead means you really on accommodation – and be prepared Pressure call in Hanover, room or hotel a private To organise

that organisers claim is ‘the largest trade show of any kind, anywhere in the world’. It’s held every kind, trade show of any world’. It’s held every in the claim is ‘the largest anywhere that organisers (More had as many as 800,000 attendees. 1990s boom of the late March and during the dotcom is Another biggie smaller crowds of around half a million visitors.) attracted shows have recent April. Messe, an industrial show in late Hannover U-Bahn Tram/U-Bahn ICE trains. 8 (and during fair times 18) as well as IC and 6 serves the eastern part near the former Expo site. of the fairgrounds office (see Information, p585). in addition to the main tourist at the fairgrounds, in Hildesheim, Celle instead Indeed some visitors choose to stay phenomenal price hikes too. and commute. in Hamburg, prices during these times) or even (both of which up their own ALL THE FUN OF THE TRADE FAIR THE TRADE FUN OF ALL THE part Messe? You’re for a trade fair or first of a time-honoured tradition. The Hanover Coming to had most hotels export As all the rubble from WWII. 1947 in the midst of fair was held in August The guests. beds for foreign to provide to citizens the mayor made an appeal been destroyed, available beds are a third more a tradition; about money came and it’s become people did, the than in hotels. offered) time they’re (the only flats at fair-time in private

DJH hostel

provided. you arrive, but soon realise it’s only a short it’s only a short but soon realise you arrive, All mod cons are walk to the Maschsee. houses a modern hostel with breakfast room room houses with breakfast a modern hostel You the river. bar overlooking and terrace out in the surburbs when you’re like feel 26yr from €18/21; space-lab-looking structure This huge, /hannover; Ferdinand-Wilhelm-Fricke-Weg 1; dm under/over areas for tents and caravans. Take bus 300 to bus 300 to Take and caravans. for tents areas it’s a five-minute from where Arnum Mitte, to Laatzen, A7 south walk. By road take or B3 from Arnum and follow the signs. has modern washing facilities, a restaurant, has modern washing facilities, a restaurant, access, a playground and a separate internet leafy lakeside location south of the city, this the city, this location south of leafy lakeside well-equipped camping ground extremely Campingplatz Arnumer See Hemmingen; adult/car €5/2, tent €3-5; BUDGET BUDGET fice directly to ensure you’re not unintention- you’re to ensure fice directly period. ally arriving during a trade-fair quadruple. Check on the city website (www Check on the city website quadruple. yet ask the tourist of- or better .hannover.de) those outside trade-show periods. During those outside trade-show periods. During shows, they can double, triple and even The tourist office books rooms, but for a tourist office books rooms, but for a The are here Prices given hefty €6.50 fee. pretty Sleeping Sleeping 598 http://camping-hannover.de; Osterbruchweg 5, Arnum- Osterbruchweg http://camping-hannover.de; LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

989 Der Pep- 601 You

Part This % ( , while or 323 666; 323 666; . Check 151 73; Berg- % (

The star in Neues Theater This former Schauspielhaus % (

Marlene Bar & Bühne Theater am Aegi This alternative gay This alternative or the 328 061; Reuterstrasse 5) . Comedies and musical Café Caldo Café Konrad % 700 0525; Schaufelder Strasse 30a; 700 0525; Schaufelder 301 8760; Georgstrasse 36) or ( . 161 4712; Glockseestrasse 35) (www.hannover-gay-night.de) % %

( ( (www.thenextgeneration.net) 268 6240; Opernplatz 1)

%

444 066; Schwarzer Bär 2) ( % ( where the staff to fill where will be able %

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168 6710; Prinzenstrasse 9) 368 1687; cnr Alexanderstrasse & Prinzenstrasse) 363 001; Georgstrasse 54) U6 or 11 to Kopernikusstrasse) Capitol Heartbreak Hotel Otherwise the scene tends to revolve more more Otherwise revolve to the scene tends GOP Varieté in seeing some cabaret Those interested Schwule Sau % % % Opernhaus the 19th- cultural firmament, Hanover’s restored century Opera House was lovingly hosts and now suffering WWII damage after well as opera. music performances as classical with variety theatre type of is an old-school circus-style acts, magic, dancing, acrobatics, housed in the Georgspalast. music and more, restaurant. It also boasts a much-lauded tracks for should make ( serious drama into more German speakers out what’s on at should check ( ( performed at are theatre 3333; Aegidientorplatz) LIVE MUSIC Café Glocksee part club, the Glocksee venue, has live-music and trance DJs to everything from techno grungy gigs. Friday nights go electronic. during the and frequently on weekends more Bär. Schwarzer tram 3, 7 or 9 to week. Take designed by Fritz Höger, the architect of Ham- of architect the Höger, Fritz by designed listing ). Check p655 (see Chilehaus burg’s office just before only opens box times, as the screenings. VENUES & LESBIAN GAY at http:// can be found information More head to the lesbian or hannover.gay-web.de, and gay hang-outs Knochenhauerstrasse 34) b hosts concerts, regularly and lesbian centre and club nights. theatre nights, as around individual party such permint Pavilion Blaue (B)Engel for details.the websites & CLASSICAL MUSIC THEATRE you in on the scene. manstrasse 7) movie theatre has rock, pop, house, soul and theatre movie have to smile at a place that reserves a park- have is just one ing space for Elvis outside, which Fri & Its Its 341 Wed, h This This % 342 217; (

h

%

( For many, 331 073; Raschplatz Fri & Sat) % (

Diablo Latino h 144 54; Goseriede 9) Osho Diskothek 301 59; Scholvinstrasse 9; % This place has staff dressed ( Palo Palo % ( LOWER SAXONY •• Hanover 353 5699; Scholvinstrasse 4; 0177-500 6006; Scholvinstrasse 7) is also based here, as well as the is also based here, % ( % (

(Reuterstrasse 3-4; , or ‘Baggi’ as Hanoverians fondly fondly , or ‘Baggi’ as Hanoverians

Minimal house, techno house, Minimal house, elec- techno in German. Eve Klub Kiez Club Sansibar Intensivstation Traditionally, the other main clubbing . However, with Raschplatz due to be reno- where you’ve found you’ve where 025; Raschplatz 1h) see-and-be-seen 8a) all these clubs has of in 2007, the future vated been thrown into doubt. Check local listings heading in this direction. before CINEMAS Anzeiger Hochhaus building a magnificent expressionist floor of Prinz, CLUBS and clubs of clusters has two main Hanover the place to head is the red- Increasingly, bars. (cheekily nicknamed Steintor light district of ‘Moaning Gate’), Stöhntor by locals, meaning in a former strip and sex club stronghold. the best in Hanover, this small club is not only A former Germany’s best, too. but one of lamps over the red striptease bar, it’s kept and added corduroy sofas, the tables and red trimmings. retro hearts and mirror balls, red crowd a mixed Reasonably priced drinks, funk, soul of 20) and a melange (mostly over 1970s and ’80s keep and party tunes from the weekends. things going to 6am on Fri & Sat) tro house – it’s all house within the red Beck’swalls here. beer costs less than €1 on Wednesdays. soul, combined with classic 1960s of roster this tunes from the 1970s and ’80s, make favourite. another Steintor Sat, plus some Wed & Thu) themed surrounds and medically as nurses and drinks. Kinky. environs destination has been the concrete Raschplatz (the so-called ‘golden triangle’) of this is behind the train station. For years, lonelyplanet.com mirror and chandeliers under caipirinhas Dragonerstrasse. 1, 2 or 8 to tram balls. Take Entertainment local edition of out the check listings, For spacious, art-house cinema is on the top spacious, art-house is on the top cinema call it, playing a mix of classic disco hits for classic disco call it, playing a mix of Latin club the over-25s. Raschplatz 7l)

Thu-Sat) from 9am) h With the With the h lonelyplanet.com 365 950; Schmiede- % 304 100; Ständehausstrasse 304 100; Ständehausstrasse (

% ( 341 410; Kamarschstrasse 49; dishes 1684 8888; Neues Rathaus, Trammplatz 2; % ( 235 2301; Theaterstrasse 6; % 391 030; Dragonerstrasse 28; (

A great place to sit and have a sum- place to sit and have great A % 7am-8pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu & Fri,7am-8pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu to 4pm % , this venue now hosts occasional club, this venue ( ( A Hanover institution, this sprawl- A Hanover h 9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri,Sat) 8.30am-6pm h 11am-6pm) This huge covered market of food stalls of market covered This huge Acanto HeimW Brauhaus Ernst August Markthalle and onion, alongside international fare such such fare international alongside and onion, Hanover landmarks? Small meals are also also landmarks? Small meals are Hanover served. where DJ bars, trendiest Hanover’s one of beautiful people sip fashionably dressed Sat) clubs and rock the cultural centres, of Many under Entertainment listed and jazz venues also good places to go just for ) are opposite ( a drink. strasse 13) unfiltered a refreshing makes ing brewpub A party atmos- Pilsner called Hannöversch. nightly, helped along by a varied reigns phere bands. live of roster bar, and not just for the cocktails, vodkas and a place with could you resist How whiskeys. about water droplets of huge lights shaped like blue sky to land on your head, a ceiling of palms beside cream clouds, potted and white and intriguing photos of leather banquettes, €3.50-8; Drinking CAFÉS Der Gartensaal h the central overlooking coffee mer afternoon Stadtpark an eye out for flyers. Keep evenings, too. BARS as lamb on mushroom ‘parfait’ with rosemary with ‘parfait’ on mushroom as lamb and fennel. EATS CAFÉS & QUICK Holländische Kakaostube 2-3; floor match- square-patterned blue-and-white and a curved pottery, ing the Delft ship’s staircase a and maritime paintings creating coffee this historic Dutch subtle nautical feel, house has many fans, young and old. Stained swirled cakes daintily glass, windmill figures, to the all contribute hot chocolate and great atmosphere. and gourmet delicatessens a no-nonsense is carnivorous and – both place for a quick bite vegetarian. Hanover’s hipsters flock to this long, narrow hipsters Hanover’s Basil, you’ll find Next door to the restaurant

Strand- One of the One of This former Germany’s oldest Locals come to this 215 7609; Friedrichswall 10; % ( dinner Mon-Sat)

closed Sun) Boats bob by on the water- from 5pm) h h h 169 8001; courtyard, Goseriede 4; tapas 807 1800; Rudolf von Bennigsen Ufer807 1800; Rudolf 51; 321 033; Sophienstrasse 6; mains €14-19; 306 147; Georgsplatz306 147; €5.50-14.50) 3; dishes 321 288; Blumenstrasse 3; mains €7.50-14, 622 636; Dragonerstrasse 30; mains €12-23, % % ( % % ( One of Hanover’s loveliest restau- loveliest Hanover’s One of ( (

%

( %

( LOWER SAXONY •• Hanover •• Hanover SAXONY LOWER (straw basket seats) (straw basket that you see on Ger- closed Sun year-round & Mon Nov-Mar) Hiller Biesler Basil Besitos Mr Phung Kabuki Pier 51 Georxx

ancient and the modern on its menu. So each ancient and the modern on its menu. So each day it serves traditional German a different with apple livers as roast calves’ dish, such h to mix the in the city likes oldest eateries inative concoctions, such as coffee-marinated as coffee-marinated concoctions, such inative and pear ragout, to with chicory duck breast tram 1, 2 or 8 to Dragon- an in crowd. Take erstrasse. fabulous fusion restaurant, with a high arched fabulous fusion restaurant, It serves tablecloths. ceiling and pressed imag- menus around €25; town now housesstables a to the north of Mediterranean-coloured walls. Mediterranean-coloured tapas under high ceilings and the watchful and matador gaucho murals on the eye of €2-4, mains €8-14; place to enjoy the city’s best warehouse-sized fashioned. That said, come with an appetite if ordering a set menu. is quite hushed and the food a tadis quite old- dered on to every linen napkin. Despite the on to every linen napkin. Despite dered painting with swirly green modern interior, the atmosphere walls, and mustard-coloured even has its logo – a carrot – carefully embroi- even has its logo – a carrot – carefully trendy restaurant with an enormous range with an enormous range restaurant trendy spirits. of sushi €2-6, mains €7-14) based order all man- train, but you can sushi at this airy, and wok dishes pan-Asian ner of you want a window seat at dinner. körbe days ahead if a few Book at least man beaches. decked out with the old-fashioned the old-fashioned out with decked the Maschsee. The menu is strong on fish, on fish, The menu is strong the Maschsee. although you can also choose pasta or meat. an outside ‘Piergarten’, In summer, there’s 51 is walled with glass and juts out over and juts out over 51 is walled with glass mains €6-18) European to Asian to Caribbean, worth is also Asian European to is a staple, and served Breakfast savouring. until 5pm. ket bistro, with a wine, beer but the or coffee, ket gamut from runs the menu, which changing Arty types come to lounge around this upmar- around lounge come to Arty types 600 set menus €8-21.50; rants, and very romantic at sundown, Pier romantic at sundown, Pier rants, and very vegetarian restaurant is such an institution it is such restaurant vegetarian LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY 603 can can Weser Radweg The Pied Piper of Hamelin The Pied Piper of was employed by Hame- 05151-939 999; www.flotte-weser.de, 05151-939 999; www.flotte-weser.de, % ( also travel from Hamelin to Bod- from Hamelin also travel 05151 / pop 58,800 Hamelin is charming, if touristy, Boden- is charming, Hamelin by boats operated From April to October, Details of the much-loved the much-loved Details of all; However, it is a bedtime story, after See the boxed text on p536 for more for more p536 on text See the boxed Flotte Weser Flotte Weser in German) enwerder on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday occasional Very and Sunday (€12, 2½ hours). cruises go as far as Bad Karlshafen. in German) www.weser-radweg.de, (Weser Cycle Path; Seebe found online. & Around, Getting There hire. , for details on bike p605 HAMELIN % to believe you were If town on the fairy tale, this quaint, ornate oughtWeser rats and to be devoid River of Pied Piper the According to legend, children. (Der Rattenfänger) their pesky rodents lin’s townsfolk to lure 13th century. When they in the into the river flute up his to pay him, he picked refused again and led their kids away. is tourism means the reality international you look along Everywhere different. very – you guessed are streets cobbled Hamelin’s rats and happy young children. it – fake in its revels positively (Hameln) Hamelin fluffy rat toys, rat- with a plague of folklore Even everything really. shaped bread…rat the Pied Piper himself can be seen in various guises,tourist-guide onlookers mesmerising with haunting tunes. to the east by the Solling-Vogler Naturpark, Naturpark, Solling-Vogler east by the to the too. hikers, spot for a great is which and Bad a quick stopover werder is worth a sleepy beauty. Karlshafen’s the Fairy-Tale this part of about information Road. Getting There & Away the B83 car – take simple journey by What is a – requires or Bad Karlshafen to/from Hamelin transport. From a little planning with public bus 520 follows Hauptbahnhof, Hamelin’s the Weser (€10.25) via to/from hourly from 6am to Bodenwerder (€5.15) 8pm during the week and every couple of trains From Holzminden on weekends. hours (€6.75), via hourly to BadKarlshafen leave trains run every two hours Direct Ottbergen. (€7.95, to Göttingen from Bad Karlshafen one hour).

is is

(Fairy-Tale Road; (Fairy-Tale Jurassic Park Jurassic 05069-407; www 05069-407; (Dinosaur Open Air magazine-style magazine-style % ( Hello! . This is Märchenstrasse , is open to members of the the of , is open to members – SOUTH •• Hamelin ROAD FAIRY-TALE 0511-3688 8723. 9am-7pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4.30pm Nov-Feb, 05037-2073; www.dinopark.de; adult/under % h Dino Park Münchehagen Münchehagen Dino Park Schloss Marienburg MarienburgSchloss % 0561-707 707; www.deutsche-maerchenstrasse.de) 10am-6pm Apr-Oct) From Hanover, take the A7 and exit 62 for take From Hanover, dif- for something completely Meanwhile, and Hanover By car, follow the A2 west of Hildesheim. Take the B1 out of Hildesheim the B1 out of Hildesheim. Take you come to Mahl- and continue 7km until the No 40 exit to Wunstorf-Luthe.take Con- FAIRY-TALE ROAD – SOUTH the of stretch This % Connecting Hamelin, the prettiest. one of it hugs the Bodenwerder and Bad Karlshafen, the way and is one of for much Weser River Germany’s most popular cycling routes. of is flanked Bodenwerder, the river South of which includes the Knight’s Hall, Queen’s Queen’s the Knight’s includes Hall, which more. Library and and you Turn rightehrten. for Nordstemmen should see public transport, By the castle. as far as a train from Hanover you can take (€4.60) or bus 300 to Pattensen Nordstemmen to walk or have (€4.80 day card), but you’ll If kilometres. the last few a taxicatch over ask the Hanover this sounds too complicated, to ) about guided tours p593 Tourist Office ( the castle. outing from Hano- a wonderful family ferent, is to ver Museum; 12yr €8.50/7; closing) last entry 1 hr before are roamed. There once dinosaurs real where dino footprints! even genuine Wunstorf and tinue along the 441 out of Locum. By public the park before you’ll reach to S-Bahntransport, take 1 or 2 from Hanover then bus Wunstorf (€6 day pass, 19 minutes), 15 minutes). (€3.50 return, 716 to Dino Park for at weekends; frequently run more www.regiobus timetable check information .de or call lonelyplanet.com the part of Now a small fancy. neo-Gothic palace, h in a public interested behind-the-scenes glimpse. Admission is by glimpse.behind-the-scenes is by Admission half-hourly), only (leaving tour a 45-minute .schloss-marienburg.de; tour adult/under 16yr €6/4.50; .schloss-marienburg.de; €6/4.50; tour adult/under 16yr brought to life, with more than 200 life-size than 200 life-size with more brought to life, raptors (brontosauruses,dinosaurs T-rexes, around a walking trail and so on) arranged and . Most . Most 721 076) 01805-737 800; general reserva- % % % (

general reservation ( (

lonelyplanet.com a huge financial financial a huge % 01803-194 49) Avis (

. 977 1223; www.hannover . such % ( Air Sixt and % 8484. From the centre to 8484. From the centre Üstra (HAJ; % British Airways

, 0180-380 3803) % ( has many connections, including connections, including has many

For taxis call Most visitors only travel in the central in the central only travel Most visitors The S-Bahn (S5) takes 16 minutes from the The S-Bahn 16 minutes (S5) takes turreted castles. In late 2005, the family of 2005, the family of castles. In late turreted (Princess Hanover Prince Ernst August of Monaco’s husband) auctioned Caroline of off some 25,000 household to raise objects their 130-room of money for the upkeep the Messe (fairgrounds, 17 minutes). Lines 17 minutes). (fairgrounds, the Messe over- These are different. U10 and U17 are the station near of south ground trams leaving the tourist office. €1.90 and day passes to ven- €3.60. If you wish further into the Umland/Region zones, ture singles cost €2.60/3.20, while day passes cost €4.80/6. AROUND HANOVER you that an- will tell Nobles the world over cestral homes can be bahnhof, including bahnhof, 01805-252 525, local 363 830) tion 0180-555 77, local 322 610) TRAIN ICE rail hub, with frequent is a major Hanover Mu- hours), (€36, 1¼ trains to/from Hamburg Cologne (€56, three hours), (€101, five nich and Berlinhours) among (€53, 1½ hours), others. Getting Around buses and tram/U-Bahnof The transit system lines is run by are U-Bahn lines from the Hauptbahnhof boarded in the station’s north (follow signs towards Raschplatz), including U-Bahn 8 to Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR Hanover Airport -airport.de) carrier with low-cost www.airberlin.com) (€3.20). Hauptbahnhof airport to the CAR , Hamburg, Nearby autobahns run to Frankfurt and Berlin, with good connections and Brus- Cologne, Amsterdam to Bremen, in the Haupt- firms are car rental sels. Major burden to maintain, especially when they’re ‘Hannover’ zone, where single tickets are are single tickets zone, where ‘Hannover’ the fairgrounds a taxithe costs about €35; to the fairgrounds €20. airport it’s about Lufthansa This pub-bar, pub-bar,

(Hohen Ufer; (Hohen Ufer;

The café-bar of of The café-bar Given a major a major Given 169 4138; Am Grossen Garten flea market % 453 486; Lindener Markt453 486; Lindener 1) (

% (

behind the Historisches the Historisches behind Ska from Uruguay, Chinese 344 558; Lister Meile 4) 455 001; Zur Bettfedernfabrik 1-3, Linden; (www.awdarena.de) (www.awdarena.de) .

% (

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LOWER SAXONY •• Around Hanover Hanover •• Around SAXONY LOWER

7am-1pm Sat) Leinaustrasse) Gig Neue Welt

There’s a regular a regular There’s Pavilion Faust In this large old building and its surround- old building In this large Musiktheater Bad

Museum, along the Leine Canal River near Die Nanas Bahnhofstrasse, is also recommended as a as a Bahnhofstrasse, is also recommended good place for browsing. The Niki de Sainte Phalle Promenade, a Promenade, a Phalle The Niki de Sainte below strip running shopping subterranean from the Hauptbahnhof, along Bahnhof- from the Hauptbahnhof, strasse, Georgstrasse and Karmarschstrasse. find is modern, international fashion. A pe- find is modern, international south shops extends destrianised zone full of Hanover’s compact city centre makes it ideal it ideal makes compact city centre Hanover’s what you will for shopping, although most of Shopping Shopping is top-class. If you’re going to a football match, going to a football match, is top-class. If you’re bus 131 Take the Maschsee. it’s just west of take stop. Alternatively, to the AWD Arena U-Bahn and follow the 3, 7 or 9 to Waterloo signs for about 500m. makeover for the FIFA Football World Cup for the FIFA makeover 44,000 in 2006, this stadium with a capacity of SPORT SPORT AWD Arena music and even theatre. ers all the day through, while eveningsers see a jazz, off-beatwide programme of rock, world this huge circular venue swarms with custom- circular venue this huge ing grounds, you’ll find a mixed bag of live live bag of a mixed ing grounds, you’ll find in sum- It’s great music and dance offerings. an outdoor stage. mer when there’s 60) concert hall is complemented by a concert hall is complemented book readings – this all happens, and more, all happens, and more, – this book readings complex. The 1960s in this former factory new year festivals, disco, reggae, heavy metal heavy disco, reggae, new year festivals, gigs, multimedia installations, quiz evenings, b serving jazz black music, funk and food, has specialisesevenings; the Gig-Lounge in soul; is for major room downstairs and the main tram 9 to Lindener take here events. To get Marktplatz. into three spaces: the Jazz-Café, as well as the Jazz-Café, spaces: into three aged to become so cool. to become aged reason why this scurrilous little live-music little live-music scurrilous why this reason man- club and not-just-for-old-rockers venue 602

h Mephisto. chi-chi venue in a historic house in is divided venue chi-chi LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

605 (rat- 215 53; 215 53; % (

Troches Fahrrad Münchhausen Mu- The Adventures of of The Adventures , which struggles, which a lit- Rattenfängertorte The must-munch here here The must-munch . 253 93; Neu Marktstrasse 18; mains €6-22) % ( 409 147; Münchhausenplatz 1; adult/child €2/1.50; 136 70; Kreuzstrasse 7). 136 70; Kreuzstrasse % % ( (

05533 / pop 6800 10am-noon & 2-5pm Apr-Oct) Really just a small village, Bodenwerder’s Really just a small village, The museum does a can- its best, housing Bikes can be hired from the can be hired Bikes

Ambrosia Museumscafé im Stiftsherrenhaus here, this one’s based this Schnitzels, on pork). here, BODENWERDER BODENWERDER % to most famous son were Bodenwerder’s If described his hometown, he’d probably have thriving metropolis it as a huge, painted have But then Baron Hier- on the Weser River. (1720–1797) was onymous von Münchhausen He fibbers. most shameless history’s one of condition – his name to a psychological gave Münchhausen’s or compulsive syndrome, physical illness – and inspired of exaggeration Gilliam’s cult movie Terry Baron Munchhausen principal attraction is the seum h with the ‘liar baron’ – a and fun associated dinner guests with to regale man who liked claiming he had, for his Crimean adventures, steeple example, tied his horse to a church during a snow drift and ridden around a din- one teacup. ing table without breaking the baron’s most famous nonball to illustrate a lift hitched tale, he claimed to have in which to spy on a battle- on one similar in an attempt field enemy. It also has paintings and displays Münchhausen books in many languages. of herrings, vegie dishes and ‘rat killer’ herb killer’ herb and ‘rat dishes vegie herrings, offered. also liquor are Italian and this restaurant’s of The aromas mesmerising down the street, food waft Greek do. the Pied Piper’s tunes just as diners €7-15) Osterstrasse 8; dishes Getting There & Around S-Bahn trains (S5) head to Hame- Frequent (€9.10, Hauptbahnhof lin from Hanover’s from direct You can also travel 45 minutes). car, by train. By airport to Hamelin Hanover’s See Getting the B217 to/from Hanover. take earlier in this section p603 & Away on There for bus and boat links. Shop is the marzipan-filled is the marzipan-filled However, there or Pied Piper, cake). catcher, also sandwiches and light seasonalare meals servedavailable, atmosphere. in a tearoom tle with the difficult task of conveying the chaos the chaos tle with the difficult conveying task of 950 80; www 278 54; www.hotel % ( %

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611 67; www.campingplatz 611 67; 3888; Osterstrasse 28; mains % 783 839; Osterstrasse 38; mains 9070; www.hotelzurkrone.de, in 9070; www.hotelzurkrone.de, (

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3425; www.jugendherberge.de/jh % % ( (

– SOUTH •• Bodenwerder ROAD FAIRY-TALE Although catering mainly to Although catering % ) (

s This unprepossessing red-brick red-brick This unprepossessing Historic on the outside, but totally ) ) This hostel is clean and relatively is clean and relatively This hostel ) The small ground-floor café here café here The small ground-floor The rooms in the old, half-timbered p ) n Hamelin’s restaurants are unasham- are restaurants Hamelin’s Shaki Sushi Bar Rattenfängerhaus Hotel Garni Altstadtwiege Hotel zur Krone DJH hostel Hotel-Garni Christinenhof fet breakfast and compact but uncluttered and compact but uncluttered breakfast fet rooms. €4-11.50) and yellow opens into a bright, black, red with a fairly select upstairs, menu restaurant where a small area dishes. There’s Japanese of at low tables, and you can sit on cushions sushi is half-price 10pm. after €5-20) edly touristy and sometimes it’s best to just half-timbered in to it. This cute give tavern’s speciality is ‘rats’ tails’ flambéed at your table the theme dishes most of like (fortunately, does have a few places for tents. It’s across for tents. places a few does have from the Altstadt 10 minutes’ and the river plus new, reasonably are Facilities walk north. pool swimming a beer garden, heated there’s restaurant. and Greek 26yr €15.30/ 33; dm under/over /hameln; Fischbeckerstrasse 18.30; space in not a lot of modern. Although there’s the place doesthe dorms or bathrooms, enjoy bus 2 views out the back. Take excellent river to Wehler Weg. from the Hauptbahnhof Neue Marktstrasse-altstadtwiege.de; s/d/tr from €45/ 10; 75/100; indi- building actually contains charming, stained- have rooms. Most vidually decorated bed a four-poster glass windows, while there’s features No 12, which in No 14. Kids will love you climb a stool to a raised single bed, where for the night. retire exposed but have creaky, are hotel this part of and some character, ceiling beams, bags of bathtubs. Thosein the modern even have and occa- up to date slightly more wing are your pick. sionally boast balconies. Take .christinenhof-hameln.de; Alte Marktstrasse 18; s/d €70/90; pns to pamper likes modern in attitude, this hotel a small swimming pool its guests, providing buf- cellar, a sauna, a generous in the vaulted lonelyplanet.com & Eating Sleeping Fährhaus an der Weser camping ground year-round this caravans, Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation German; ste from €130; Osterstrasse 30; s €65-85, d €90-95, pn -faehrhaus-hameln.de, in German; Uferstrasse 80; per adult/ tent & car €4/6; 10am-1pm Glashütte h 405 571; www lonelyplanet.com % Learnglass- about (Renaissance Experience; The upper floor, where where The upper floor, 10am-6pm). h (Glass-Blowing Factory; (Glass-Blowing Factory; 403 680, 01805-013 330; www.erlebniswelt-renaissance 403 680, 01805-013 There’s a Hamelin angle, of course – you angle, of a Hamelin There’s The history of the period is later presented presented the period is later The history of (in Ger- a narrative Audio guides provide see the experts at work; you can even try it yourself, under supervision (€9). Don’t worry doesn’t turn out quite if your own creation covetable plenty of are as you’d hoped: there The in the accompanying shop. glassworks demonstrations start glass-blowing 35-minute every 30 minutes. bus, da Vinci, Dürer, Gutenburg, Luther and Gutenburg, bus, da Vinci, Dürer, players the major just some of are Shakespeare their stories. waiting to tell can spy through at what’s going on a telescope town. Further 17th-century in the animated in the surrounding countryside continue sites the ‘Renaissance experience’; ask at the cash desk for details. GLASHÜTTE HAMELN zone is the Another Pied-Piper-free Hameln adult/child under 6yr/student €2.50/free/1.05; & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun). history and blowing throughout Hamelin’s exploration and travel, fashion, trade and fashion, trade and exploration and travel, more. much astrono- as the evening great news, while four and Gali- (Ptolemy, Copernicus, Kepler mers show. While leo) meet on an evening chat children, school-age it’s obviously aimed at and the exhibition, a kick out of adults will get how the learn from it, too, as it demonstrates Renaissance period laid the groundwork for today. in the world we live but in Eng- research, man only at the time of automatically soon), which lish and French synchronises displays. Mean- with the main detail more provide features while interactive you. Colum- on the subjects that interest ERLEBNISWELT RENAISSANCE RENAISSANCE ERLEBNISWELT genu- a media delivers modern Clever use of history lesson in Hamelin’s inely exciting RenaissanceErlebniswelt % Osterstrasse 2; adult/child/concession .de; Hochzeitshaus, €9/5.40/7.20; althoughyou start, the weakest, it is probably However, with stick a handy timeline. features it because through as you descend the build- lays A computer better. much much, ing it gets Renaissance meals, types of a table with three is presented 1000 masterpieces and a wall of alongside sections on the calendar and time, .glasblaeserei-hameln.de; Am Pulverturm/Kastanienwall;.glasblaeserei-hameln.de;

Pied one- at the Flotte Weser Altstadt has a

Hochzeitshaus 9am-6.30pm 957 823, 0180-551 Rattenfängerhaus h on Wednesday , from 1602, is the % ( Rats at noon on Sunday on the Weser River. on the Weser River. carousel of Pied Piper fig- Rattenfänger Glockenspiel (adult/child €6/3)

, upstairs from the tourist office, from the tourist office, , upstairs – the line of white rats drawn on white – the line of FAIRY-TALE ROAD – SOUTH •• Hamelin •• Hamelin – SOUTH ROAD FAIRY-TALE

open-air light displays 939 999) twirls at 1.05pm, 3.35pm and 5.35pm. Also not to be missed is the The ornamental Weser Renaissance style The Hauptbahnhof is about 800m east of of 800m east is about The Hauptbahnhof

From May to September, there are are to September, there May From During summer, ask the tourist office about

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and the comic musical at 4.30pm. ( according to demand. Contact hour cruises ures the and 11.35am, while a its interior. The its interior. 9.35am daily at the building chimes far end of (1610–17) at the Markt (square) end of Oster- end of (square) (1610–17) at the Markt strasse; see the following section for details on finest example, with its typically steep and finest example, with its typically steep gable. decorated richly strong Italian The influence. (Rat Catcher’s House; Osterstrasse 28) prevalent throughoutprevalent Hamelin’s

Piper trail information posts are There the pavements. in German, but at at various points. They’re the least you know when to stop to admire 16th- to 18th-century half-various restored houses. timbered Sights & Activities Sights & Activities ALTSTADT is to follow the The best way to explore

Hameln Tourist Information Information Information

the centre. Turn right out of the station square the station Turn right square out of the centre. follow Bahnhofstrasse(past the roundabout), left. Diesterstrasse and turn to Diesterstrasse you’ll find the becomes Diesterallee, where Buses 3, tourist office, and then Osterstrasse. the lines that will just some of 4, 5 and 6 are town. you into take Orientation lies the Weser River of bank eastern On the circular Altstadt. The main streets Hamelin’s and runs east–west, which Osterstrasse, are axis. the north–south Bäckerstrasse, 604 5150; www.hameln.de; Diesterallee 1; 5150; www.hameln.de; Diesterallee Mon-Fri, Sun May-Sep, 9.30am-4pm Sat, 9.30am-1pm 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat Oct-Apr) 9.30am-1pm On the eastern edge of the Altstadt. to arrange. Cruises leave from the far west of from the far west of Cruises leave to arrange. the old town. They run five times daily between 10am and They run five at 4.15pm 3pm, with an additional departure LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY 607 with (1561–79), 8.30am-6pm Mon- h whipping posts . The little horseshoe 1212; www.region-celle (Bahnhofstrasse 38; inter- % Altes Rathaus ( Stechbahn 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, (Rundstrasse 7; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun) 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm h h At the tourist office door, on the building’s At the tourist office held a little Jousting tournaments were The white-and-pink Ducal Palace is an- Ducal Palace The white-and-pink 11am-4pm Sun May-Oct, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat Nov-Apr) Runs guided tours (€4; in German) at 2.30pm Monday to Saturday and 11am on Sunday from May to October (during other months at 2pm Saturday and 11am Sunday), and organises horse-drawn carriage rides (from €5 per person). shackles; these were usedshackles; these from 1786 to 1850 were Tourismus Region Celle Sights ALTSTADT half-timbered ornate row upon row of With houses, with scrolls and alle- all decorated Celle place for a gorical figures, is a perfect in a is located the tourist office stroll. Even striking building, the boasts a wonderful Weserwhich Renaissance gable, topped with the ducal coat of stepped arms and a golden weather vane. two are south side, there weren’t Prisoners minor offenders. to punish for 12 hours, left here whipped but merely at them or to spit to allow their neighbours the statuethrow insults and eggs. of Opposite, the scene. a man in shackles recreates further west on north side marks the street’s on the corner of was slain during a a duke the spot where other historic landmark, passedhistoric landmark, other down from However, Celle is also look- the Middle Ages. art with its new ‘24-hour’ ing to the future museum. Orientation pedestrianisedThe mainly Altstadt is about the Hauptbahnhof, east of walk a 15-minute Bahnhof- by the rather unattractive reached end will Turning left at the street’s strasse. 100m. From here, palace after you to the take east (right) leads to the nearby Stechbahn flows around The River tourist office. the Altstadt,the northern section with a of tributary it to the south. Just south encircling the Altstadt Garten is the Französischer of Garden). (French Information Adunni Callshop & Internet Main post office net per hr €3; Fri, to 1pm Sat) Diagonally opposite the Schloss. .com; Markt 14; The and its and its 404; www.hotel is no-style. is no-style. % (

pension Hafenbecken 104 445; fax 1046; Conradis- Although Earl Karl’s ) % ( p LÜNEBURGER HEIDE •• Celle 05141 / pop 71,400 Hotel zum Schwan Hotel-Pension Fuhrhop Haus The area in between, along the Lüneburger in between, along the Lüneburger The area p614 ) and camp sites along the way. ) and camp sites p614 CELLE % like beauty, of old town is an object Celle’s egg, pious built by hard-working, a Fabergé folk who ironically had no truck with such frippery. In the 16th century, they lined their half-timbered with ornate cobbled streets them with stern buildings and then decorated ‘Don’t let widows and orphans mottos like God’, and suffer or you’ll face the wrath of ‘This house was built from necessity not de- the one that of (What would they make sire’. ‘Sex Kino’?) now blares Shop -fuhrhop-karlshafen.de; Friedrichstrasse 15; s/d €35/65) this charming style of with a decorated The spacious rooms are seemingly furniture, as pieces mishmash of possession, which come into the owners’ have atmosphere. the place a homy, relaxed gives crossed you’ve after left street It’s on the first the bridge. trasse 3-4; s/d €40/80; this is now a bit creaky, former hunting lodge the town’s of is still one atmospheric hotel the best. It overlooks museum a perfect rococo dining room is piece. LÜNEBURGER HEIDE along the sprawling Lüne- Hanover North of historic attractive, lies a land of Heide burger Lower Saxony was allure. and natural villages to the court moved before ruled from here exquisitely and so royal treasures Hamburg, preserved buildings await you in Celle. In you can observeLüneburg, the quirky side- the salt-mining that made the town effects of (the town visibly in the Middle Ages rich leans). or in a on foot, by bike be covered can Heide, text, (see hay hotels boxed are boat, and there lonelyplanet.com and opportunities nearby sporting other sliced with freshly breakfast, an excellent request.) on available meals are fruit. (Other walk from the train sta- uphill It’s a short, modern rooms enjoy its clean tion; some of and the Bad Karlshafen views over dreamy hills. surrounding Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation

9am- and Hafen- 999 922; h 338; bad % from the

( % ( 1410; Hafenplatz 1410; Hafenplatz % lonelyplanet.com Hafenbecken 710; www.campingplatz Deutsches Huguenotten 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat, , which explains the explains the , which tourist office % (

h lies to the left as you cross A genuinely lovely and and lovely A genuinely ) If you’re driving through this driving through this If you’re a large pine-twig contraption contraption pine-twig a large ) pn Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation (German Huguenot Museum;

Gradierwerk and pop into the Bad Karlshafen is strictly in Hesse, but it’s in Hesse, is strictly Bad Karlshafen on small and easily covered The town is Hermann Wenning DJH hostel While here, take a stroll around the take While here, The pnas Am Rechten Weserufer -bad-karlshafen.de, in German; per adult/tent & car €3.50/3) This camping ground enjoys a prime position the just south of on the northern riverbank, the town centre. train station. It overlooks [email protected]; Strasse 7; dm €17, Winnefelder s/d €20/36.50; this place at- hostel, healthy-feeling quite and cyclists, has table tennis tracts lots of 5.30pm Mon-Fri, Sat, 2.30-5pm Sun May–mid- 9.30am-noon Oct, 9am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Oct–Apr) straighton the other side and continue ahead to Hafenplatz. becken Museum 9a; adult/concession €2/1; 11am-6pm Sun mid-Feb–Dec) the Huguenots in Germany. history of the bridge. Sleeping Gradierwerk, ‘healthy’ air, to create with saltwater poured the wor- place to escape perfect and this is the days. few the world for a ries of Road, just across the Fairy-Tale at the end of transport infor- For border. the Lower Saxony . p603 mation, see & Away, Getting There bank of it lies on the south foot. Most of with the the Weser River, at its west- Hafenplatz, surrounding square, the ern end. To reach [email protected]; 8; Hafenplatz Hauptbahnhof, follow the only road exiting Hauptbahnhof, and cross the minutes the station for a few right Turn again the river. right, over bridge, available at available 405 41; www 05154-706 00; www.schlosshotel-muenchhausen.com; Schwöbber 9, Aerzen05154-706 00; www.schlosshotel-muenchhausen.com; Schwöbber % ( % (

(harbour basin) Münchhausenplatz 3; Münchhausenplatz 3;

Hafenbecken which can also arrange accom- can also arrange which

, showing the baron riding half showing the FAIRY-TALE ROAD – SOUTH •• Bad Karlshafen Bad •• SOUTH – ROAD FAIRY-TALE

fountain 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri year-round, 9am- 05672 / pop 4700 region, it’s worth staying 15km outside Hamelin just to treat yourself to a night or two here. As As it’s worth yourself to a night or two here. staying 15km outside Hamelin just to treat region, in the ornate, you can sit in front of the fireplace the name implies, it’s set in a castle, where historic restaurant, cuisine in an impressively high-ceilinged ‘Knight’s Hall’, enjoy Michelin-starred modern accom- more in the spa, or just enjoy your fine, historic bedroom. Alternatively, relax to the castle by an underground barn, connected Tithe in the refurbished modation is provided of parkland, which to two golf courses and set in eight hectares is adjacent hotel walkway. The when they stayed during the 2006 national football team was probably handy for the French Cup. Football World FIFA SOMETHING SPECIAL SOMETHING SPECIAL Münchhausen Schlosshotel bei Hameln; s/d in Tithe barn €95/125, in castle €120/150; barn €95/125, in castle €120/150; bei Hameln; s/d in Tithe

From April to October, things become live- From April to October, In the garden by the museum,In the garden sim- the No trains travel to Bodenwerder; see Get-No trains travel

today is a tiny swans. Add the town’s trafficked only by white designs were completed and all that exists and all that exists completed designs were earl Karl by Huguenot refugees. The town The town by Huguenot refugees. earl Karl harbour and was planned with an impressive a canal connecting the Weser with the Rhine his But the earl died before to attract trade. en’s orderly streets and whitewashed baroque baroque and whitewashed en’s orderly streets time for the local built at that buildings were spa town. Little wonder, for Bad Karlshaf- % for thinking you’d stum- forgiven You’d be bled into 18th-century France in this sleepy BAD KARLSHAFEN BAD KARLSHAFEN 1pm Sat Apr-Oct) .muenchhausenland.de, in German; relate Münchhausen tales for €1 (10am to relate sto- daily). English noon and 2pm to 4pm for groups; ask at ries can only be arranged Tourist Information Bodenwerder lier in Bodenwerder, as German storytellers Germanlier in Bodenwerder, as storytellers horse is sewn back together and lives happily horse is sewn and lives back together after.) ever was pouring right through the it. (In the story a horse relates to one such tale, where the the tale,to one such where a horse relates seemed his horse baron noticed a bit thirsty, been the animal had and then realised cut in so the water gate, two by a descending town ple Tall Tales of Baron Münchhausen, Münchhausen, Baron of Tales Tall the museum shop. It’s all definitely more enjoyable if you first first if you enjoyable more definitely It’s all book, arm yourselfthe English-language with 606 h modation and answer other queries. modation and answer other for transport in- p603 & Away on ting There is small and walkable. formation. The village LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

609 Heide-style Heide-style Celler Rohe Roulade, Celler Rohe 925 790; Schlossplatz; mains 2010; www.fuerstenhof.de; 2010; www.fuerstenhof.de; 246 01; Neue Strasse 27; mains % % (

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Behind this instantCelle The interior is overwhelm- The interior 485 152; Neue Strasse 34; mains €8- Herzogen Pfanne, % (

A converted baroque palace, this A converted ) 8am-6pm) 483 460; Neue Strasse 37; mains €4.50-6.50; €4.50-6.50; 483 460; Neue Strasse 37; mains h German to the neat fringes of its pink of German to the neat fringes % (

ps 9am-10pm Mon-Fri, Sat May-Sep, to 4pm 9am-5pm Mon- Schlosscafé Vis à Vis Zum Ältesten Haus India Haus Hotel Fürstenhof The combination of subcontinental inte- The combination of that takes your fancy (from bolognesethat takes or pesto Cru- salmon or cream). to tuna and capers, homemade. cially, it’s all freshly €3.50-12; the week and during this place ingly green can be filled with bus tour groups. However, brunch fantastic, when a huge Sundays are buffet is laid out, or you can choose the usual pasta, salads or other light meals. €7.50-18) this is the best place in town to try tablecloths, as local specialities such rolled, thinly sliced raw beef in a mustard marinade, or roast lamb with cranberries, stuffed pears, beans and fried potatoes.green 16) a surprisingly harmonious beams creates in this half-timberatmosphere house. The food might not meet exacting Londoners’ standards (and we heard the occasional mi- ping), but it’s excellent for provincial crowave Germany. specials cost €5 to €5.50. Lunch Getting There & Away with Hanover, Celle of within easy reach is the trip (from trains an hour making three (ICE) to €7.60) in anything from 19 minutes sized rooms variously feature exposed wooden feature variously sized rooms alcove and even antique desks beams, a few onto a living room backs beds. The guest leafy garden. ste from 55/56; s €135-185, d €185-255, Hannoversche Strasse €225; of each has given hotel five-star renowned hunting subtle theme, from golf, a its floors for and heath (where, to romance and horses and the sheep example, the carpet features That the place still pillow cases pattern). a leaf says elegant something about extremely feels of deft touch and the the quality furnishings designer. the interior Eating Pasta h Fri, to 4pm Sat Oct-Apr) those ideas that is so simple it’s hit lies one of pasta (tagliatelle, Mix your favourite genius. with a sauce etc) ravioli gnocchi, penne rigate, rior décor and traditional, exposed medieval )

pn A short walk A short ) p Seemingly straight ) 312 23; www.campingpark 208 141; www.nacelle.de; Hohe You’re mainly paying You’re ) p

210 510; www.hotel-st-georg.de; % % 927 20; www.utspann.de; Im Kreise 927 20; www.utspann.de; Im Kreise

( ( Under new management – Under new management )

532 08; www.jugendherberge.de/jh % ( % 911 960; www.cellerhof.de; Stechbahn911 960; www.cellerhof.de;

LÜNEBURGER HEIDE •• Celle pn (

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On the shore of a lake with plenty with a lake of On the shore Hotel St Georg Celler Hof Hotel Utspann The synagogue is at the southeastern end of of end is at the southeastern The synagogue DJH hostel Hotel Zur Herberge for the super-central location here – opposite – opposite location here for the super-central from the Schloss. the Stadtkirche and minutes Although the design is modern and extremely small. reasonably comfortable, the rooms are room and saunaA fitness add value. 13; s €80, d €85-95; in two half- in size to 10 rooms reduced than houses and a little less cluttered timbered a – this historic place still evokes previously Individually atmosphere. staying-with-friends the Altstadt, ghetto. in the town’s former Sleeping Camping Silbersee per adult €3, per tent/tent & -silbersee.de; Zum Silbersee 19; car €2.60/4.10) ground has older this camping cover, tree of facilities. buildings, but nevertheless plenty of it can be reached centre, 4km from the About by bus 1 to Am Tierheim. 26yr €15/18; /celle; Weghausstrasse 2; dm under/over and rambling, this hostel For a place so large especially spacious rooms and doesn’t have can be a little the lighting in the public areas popular with school gloomy. It’s also very by town, it’s reached of groups. On the edge bus 3 (alight at Boye) or by following the signs from the train station. Wende 14; s/d/tr €38/58/85; showroom – with blonde-wood from the Ikea furnishings and yellow and blue fabrics – this excellent value. offers hotel small, charming TV, rooms have En suite phone and bath- and room, and you can help yourself to coffee Recep- beer corner. in the communal kitchen tion isn’t always staffed, ahead. Bus 12 so ring you here. will get Herrstrasse to Harburger offers from the old town, this family-run hotel historic façade, modern rooms mix of a lovely Amuse yourself at and friendly atmosphere. on out all the pictures by checking breakfast walls. the restaurant lonelyplanet.com any other half-timberedjust like house from congregation new Jewish but a the outside, and servicesformed in 1997 held regularly. are take history on Jewish Changing exhibitions place next door. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation 11; s €65, d €90-100; St Georg Strasse 25-27; s/d €60/80;

550 Kunst- % ( closed Jul & tickets 127

h % ( , due to have , due to have 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, noon-5pm Tue-Thu, noon-5pm Tue-Thu, lonelyplanet.com synagogue Bomann Museum h h 123 55; www.kunst.celle.de; is the oldest in north- Schlosstheater % 7735; tower admission adult/concession . Here, among other things, you among . Here, . You can climb up the 235 steps . You can climb up the 235 steps % (

10am-6pm Tue-Sat, tower 10am-noon & 1-6pm 10am-6pm Tue-Sat, (Art Museum;

h However, way to peek guaranteed the only 125 44; www.bomann-museum.de; Schlossplatz 7; adult/ 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun) In the older building adjacent, you’ll still Rehearsals permitting, some tours do ven- permitting, some tours Rehearsals % Tue-Sat Apr-Oct)Tue-Sat SYNAGOGUE SYNAGOGUE to 1740, Celle’s Dating back 24; admission free; 714; Im Kreise 9am-2pm Fri, 11am-4pm Sun) destroyed during ern Germany. Partially ), it looks p35 text, Kristallnacht (see boxed can wander through in 19th- rooms furnished century style. STADTKIRCHE the RathausJust west of is the 13th-century Stadtkirche €1/0.50; tower below to the white climbs the 220 steps in all four the steeple for a trumpet fanfare place at 5.15pm The ascent takes directions. and 7.30pm Monday to Friday, 9.30am and 7.15pm on Saturday and either 9.30am or 7.15pm on Sunday (ask the tourist office closer to the time). reopened in the latter half of 2006, supposedly half of in the latter reopened museum’. 24-hour It’s as ‘the world’s first refurbishment a €4 million claiming this after glass façade and a a transparent has created showcase for electric-light installations right through the evening. During the day, you can Germanvisit the contemporary paintings, collector Robert and objects of sculptures Simon – all the while thanking the heavens not paying the museum’s electricity you’re bill. history find the regional ( concession incl Kunstmuseum €3/2; last entry 4.15pm) above; the shutters were added later so his later added were the shutters above; highness the three-hour snooze during could services. into the baroque ture Schlossplatz; 14; www.schlosstheater-celle.de; Aug). the performances one of attend inside is to details. The tourist office can provide here. MUSEUM KUNSTMUSEUM & BOMANN stands the palace Celle’s from Across museum incl Bomann MuseumSchlossplatz 7; adult/concession €3/2; h to the top of the church steeple for a view of of for a view steeple the church to the top of as the city trumpeter the city, or just watch

French (Ducal No 37 Schloss Fairy-Tale House Fairy-Tale (1478) with the . It’s less glamorous than . It’s less glamorous than Green House (1532), one block along on the (1532), one . Built in 1292 by Otto Der Strenge . Built in 1292 by Otto Der Strenge 123 73; Schlossplatz; tours adult/concession €3/2; baroque toilet at the edge of the Altstadt. of at the edge LÜNEBURGER HEIDE •• Celle Celle •• HEIDE LÜNEBURGER % tours hourly 11am-4pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct,tours hourly 11am-4pm Tue-Sun 11am & 3pm Tue- The Schloss can only be visited on guided can only be visited The Schloss If you’d like to continue walking, double If you’d like The tourist office has booklets describing Retrace your steps to the corner of Post- to the corner of Retrace your steps Continue another block southwards and block southwards Continue another If you walk south from the tourist office, office, south from the tourist If you walk

is pure Renaissance. The duke’s pew was pew was Renaissance. The duke’s is pure is evident in the high windows and vaulted interior the intricate of ceiling, but the rest clude the magnificent baroque theatre, the clude the magnificent baroque theatre, and, Caroline-Mathilde apartment of private form Its original Gothic all, the chapel. above tours (in German), but there are explanatory are (in German),tours but there Highlights for sale. in English in- brochures , who died here in 1775. Denmark, who died here was Georg Wilhelm (1624–1705), and the Wilhelm (1624–1705), and the was Georg last royal was Queen of Caroline-Mathilde building was expanded and turned into a building was expanded and turned into a here to live in 1378. The last duke residence Sun Nov-Mar) h SCHLOSS SCHLOSS Beautifully proportioned and magnificently is Celle’s wedding-cake restored Garden back south, where Celle also has a lovely Celleback south, where also has a lovely various houses in German, but unfortunately nothing in English. at No 11. The façade of the latter is decorated is decorated the latter at No 11. The façade of as a jackass crapping such with characters, gold pieces. and you’ll come to Neue Strasse.and you’ll come to Neue Highlights include the here beam at No 32 and the crooked upper gable, ‘Work! No chatting, talking talking chatting, upper gable, ‘Work! No into Rabengasse,or gossiping!’. Turn left (built in 1570, now the shop Reformhaus), (built in 1570, now the inscription on the with its heart-warming strasse and Zöllnerstrasse, and turn rightstrasse Zöllnerstrasse, and into pass This way, you’ll Zöllnerstrasse. was a in the tiny alley between the two buildings with a window. This you’ll see a little box flush directly would the name implies; waste down into the alley. stop in the square in the corner. Look up, and Look in the corner. stop in the square Celle’s buildings, the ornate most magnificent Hoppener Haus Runde Strasse. corner of tournament; step on it and make a wish, and wish, a and make on it step tournament; come true. the wish will holds that local lore straight Poststrasse, down one of you’ll find 608

(Otto the Strict) as a town fortification, the Palace; Palace; LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY , 611 St Johan- 8.30am- h 770; Bögelstrasse 1) 770; Bögelstrasse % (Westbahnhof; per hr €3; Industrie- und Handelskammer (Hospital; 7270; Sülztorstrasse 21; 7270; Sülztorstrasse 435 94; Am Sande; 10am-5pm Sun-Wed, to 435 94; Am Sande; 10am-5pm Sun-Wed, (refuge), which was granted at the was granted which (refuge), % ( with a statue of the Roman goddess with a statue of % (

, which has a spectacular, which baroque façade, hliuni 7am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, to 9am-midnight 7am-11pm Mon-Thu, The inside of the church is, well, a lot more is, well, a lot more the church The inside of the medievalThe statue sits in front of fountain Mon-Fri, May-Oct, to 4pm Sat & Sun Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm and trips city tours Sat Nov-Apr) Arranges to 2pm the to Heide. surrounding Lüneburger h Sun) Internet access. Sat, 10am-11pm believable than the legend; there’s an impres- an believable there’s than the legend; and stained-glass windows, both organ sive ancient and modern. Explanatory leaflets are in many languages. provided SANDE AM westwards, the cobbled, slightly Moving build- red-brick wobbly Am Sande is full of gables. stepped ings with typically Hanseatic among these striking buildings, the Even black-and-white (Trade and Industry Chamber) at the far end stands out; it’s undoubtedly western the most beautiful. Continue one block past and turn right into the Handelskammer leads which Schröderstrasse, restaurant-lined to the Markt. & MARKT RATHAUS hails from the Saxon The name Lüneburg word ) to those fleeing other ter- p612 ( Ducal Palace ritories. However, many sources mistakenly assume the town’s name has something to do the moon. with Luna, the Roman goddess of The city authorities at one time seem to have been among these souls, erecting misguided a in the town’s Markt. Rathaus Post office Spielhalle Westbahnhof Stadt Krankenhaus Sights & Activities ST JOHANNISKIRCHE Am called the square of edge At the eastern Sande stands 14th-century the clunky niskirche 6pm Thu-Sat Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Thu-Sat, to 4pm Sun Nov-Mar) true. leans 2.2m off whose 106m-high spire was so the architect has it that Local legend tried to do that he steeple upset by this crooked into a hay- fell himself it. He in by jumping off but celebrating his escape cart and was saved, in the pub drank himselflater into a stupor, all. his head and died after hit over, fell 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) 207 6620; 9am-6pm % ( h to the camp from the village LÜNEBURGER HEIDE •• Lüneburg 05051-5555) % (

04131 / pop 71,500 The last buses back from the camp are atThe last buses the camp are back from angles and un- Of course, the city’s wobbly However, knowing the scientific explana- From the ZOB (central bus station), (central underthe ZOB From For further details, at the Celle ask tourist www.lueneburg.de; Rathaus,www.lueneburg.de; Am Markt; even pavements have a more prosaic cause. more a have evenpavements being of tion never detracts from the pleasure Orientation sits between Haupt- the The River bank, and is on its eastern which bahnhof, the Markt to its west. To reach the city centre by foot from the train station, turn left when right the station, into first the and take leaving leads across This street Altenbrückertorstrasse. you’ll find From here, to Am Sande. the river town. billboard maps all over lots of Information Lüneburg Tourist-Information Office and change to 11 in Winsen. journey costs The and change Beware one hour. and takes way €4.80 each and 1.40pm busesthat the 12.05pm don’t run holidays. during school A 5.29pm. two changes, 4.50pm and, requiring taxi LÜNEBURG % buildings leaning steeple, church kilter An off- other and houseson each with swollen ‘beer- the charm- looks like belly’ façades: in parts it of has drunk too much Lüneburg ing town of the Pilsener it used to brew. lager was a salt- For centuries until 1980, Lüneburg gold’ was mining town, and as this ‘white from the earth, shifting ground and extracted subsidence caused buildings to tilt side- many used the plaster drying of ways. Inadequate added to in the now-swollen façades merely this asymmetry. streets. crooked comic-book on Lüneburg’s gables stepped its pretty The lopsidedness of it a destina- make architecture and Hanseatic to tion in its own right, not just the gateway the surrounding heath. lonelyplanet.com the huge car park opposite the Celle opposite car park the huge Haupt- bus 12 (leaving you need to catch bahnhof, to change and 3.40pm) and 12.05pm, 1.40pm Bergen. Alternatively, town of bus 11 in the 1.35pm) from the ZOB bus 80 (departing take office. of Bergen will cost about €15. There’s a phone Bergen will cost about €15. There’s of at the camp to call a taxi when leaving. , , are , are on the memorial

cross , where you can , where and her sister, and her sister, lonelyplanet.com Soviet memorial obelisk and Haus der Stille gravestone for Anne Frank In the several hectares of cemetery within within cemetery severalIn the of hectares Bergen-Belsen in 1940 began its existence from other prisoners thousands of of Tens A By public transport the journey is con- After WWII, Allied forces used the troop used WWII, Allied forces After the troop spot of a memorial initially raised a memorial initially by Polish spot of the gates is a large stone is a large the gates with inscriptions to all victims, a with inscriptions burger Strasse north out of the city. This is the Strasse north out of burger Bergen B3; continue northwest to the town of and follow the signs to Belsen. Monday siderably trickier and only possible to Friday, so you’ll need to be particularly to visit. determined more deaths. Despite the best attempts of the of the best attempts Despite deaths. more their inhumane SS to hide the evidence of to bury or in- practices, by forcing prisoners their deceasedcinerate colleagues, thousands the compound when corpses still littered of British troops arrived. (DP) as a displaced persons’ barracks here camp, for those to a waiting to emigrate who third country (including many Jews its establishment in went to Israel after 1948). The DP camp was closed in Sep- 1950. tember Getting There & Away Celle, Hehlentorstrasse take Driving from Har- and follow the Aller River north over pay tribute to their 15-year-old heroine at to their 15-year-old pay tribute Other monuments to various this gravestone. a victim groups, including across the complex. dotted by over partly taken as a POW camp, but was hostage to hold Jews the SS from April 1943, for German POWs held abroad. in exchange then later soldiers, and Allied Russian Many , homosexuals and Romanian Jews, tortured, – beaten, here Gypsies all suffered gassed, starved used to death, and or worked as medical guinea pigs. brought to camps near the front line were Belsen WWII, causing of in the last months disease of and even an outbreak overcrowding, prisoners and the and prisoners contemplation. for quiet retreat too far (not has also been erected Margot, to the on the way gates, from the cemetery family was initially sent obelisk). The entire when their hiding place in Am- to Auschwitz but the sisters was betrayed to police, sterdam to Belsen. transferred Although later were lies exactly, many Anne no-one knows where . provides a provides just outside 280 01. Bicy- 9am-1pm & 3-6pm % h 9am-6pm) (1947) – plus the free (1947) – plus the free h Fahrradverleih am Bahnhof 444 44 or 05051-6011 ; www.bergenbelsen . % % (

Documentation Centre LÜNEBURGER HEIDE •• Bergen-Belsen Bergen-Belsen •• HEIDE LÜNEBURGER

901 3377; Bahnhofstrasse 26-27; Also inside the centre, there’s a book of a book of there’s Also inside the centre, In all, 70,000 Jews, Soviet soldiers, politi- soldiers, Soviet In all, 70,000 Jews, Unlike Auschwitz in , none of the in Poland, none of Auschwitz Unlike If you’re driving, take the B3 straight the take driving, into If you’re

Inside the For a taxi call

% Guide for Visitors to the Belsen Memorial to the Guide for Visitors The Diary of Anne Frank The Diary of the several thousand unburied bodies and survivorsemaciated the British who greeted the camp in April forces when they liberated testimony 1945. The film includes a moving are the cameramen. Screenings from one of hourly from 10am to 5pm daily, but rotate languages. between different as here, interned those who were names of well as guides and books for sale – including particular, plus a theatre showing a 25-minute showing a 25-minute particular, plus a theatre documentary. Both include awful scenes of outlining the history of the concentration the concentration outlining the history of Bergen-Belsen and of camps in general in the cemetery gates, there’s a small exhibition a there’s gates, the cemetery approximately how many people lie in each – how many people lie in each approximately 1000, 2000, 5000, an unknown number… died here. and other prisoners cal hostages Among them was Anne Frank, whose post- diary became a modern humously published classic. purple heather in summer – soon reveal their purple heather in summer – soon reveal Signs indicate true identity as mass graves. soil. Yet the large, initially peaceful-looking initially the large, soil. Yet in beautiful grassy earth – covered lumps of original buildings remain from the most from the most original buildings remain infamous concentration camp on German horrifying punch to the stomach through to the stomach the horrifying punch its atmosphere. sheer force of Bergen-Belsen .de; ; admission free; Many concentration camps move you with camps move concentration Many and museums. their buildings, exhibitions ( Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) BERGEN-BELSEN cle hire is available at is available cle hire passes €4.20. Getting Around Getting Around City buses 3 and 4 run between 2, the Haupt- the two main and Schlossplatz, bahnhof €1.50 and day are stations. Single tickets 45 minutes (S-Bahn). There are also IC (€17, also IC are (S-Bahn).45 minutes There 1½ hours) (€13.40, and regional 40 minutes) services Lüneburg. to/from the centre. 610 LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY from from 613 h Despite Despite which comes in all which If Pons looks this If Pons looks this 2240; Lüner Strasse 12-13; 2240; Lüner Strasse 12-13; % (

3080; Bei der Lüner Mühle; mains % 248 348; Schröderstrasse 8; sushi €1.70- 248 348; Schröderstrasse 8; sushi ( All gleaming red-and-black All gleaming red-and-black

% 224 935; Salzstrasse am Wasser 1; ( 428 20; Am Sande 30; mains €6-18) 428 20; Am Sande Heidschnucke, Heidschnucke, Light and airy, with a lot of blue, Light and airy, with a lot of % ( %

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The view over the Ilmenau would be The view over Pons Sushi Bar Marina Café Hotel Bremer Hof hotel, spread across half a dozen warehouse a dozen warehouse across half spread hotel, a weir in an old mill around buildings and However, it’s often the regularly changing changing the regularly However, it’s often cuisines various Asian supplementary menu of the next and so on) (Thai one week, Korean up the truly delicious choices. that offers €25-35) also a pleasant shop at- coffee warehouse to the hotel. tached 5pm Mon-Sat, from 3pm Sun) an evening, just imagine how it walk in of will seem a few when you stagger out after from the 1970s, it drinks. A hippy hangover musical better much has much, fortunately food served cheap and a small menu of taste from 6pm (from €3.50). It’s on the corner of the student drinking strip known as the ‘Stint’ (Am Stintmarkt). Getting There & Away train services frequent are to Ham- There (€23, one Hanover (€11, 30 minutes), burg (€16 to €30, one hour 20 hour) and Schwerin also IC (€17, 40 minutes) are There minutes). services (€13.40, 1½ hours) and regional to/from Celle. the Ilmenau River. Other rooms are more more rooms are Other River. the Ilmenau romantic. traditional and Eating & Drinking Camus estab- this central upper floors, to the two a like to feel lishment somehow manages that (maybe is on the stereo brasserie. Jazz mains, Provençale helps), while Tuscan and on the menu. and pizza and pasta are mains €6-22) lamb from the local specialities, including heath, or shapes and sizes. 9.50, mains €7-29) lacquer, with blue up-lighting the bar, behind obviously serves restaurant this chic sushi. cracked, crooked and uneven when you and uneven when you crooked cracked, reason enough for coming to the upmarket enough for coming to the upmarket reason Bergström, the Hotel but the of restaurant cuisine international menu of daily changing good. For those who want to is also pretty spend a little less but enjoy the views, there’s the atmospheric restaurant here is strong on here the atmospheric restaurant the heavy wooden beams and winding stairs stairs beams and winding wooden the heavy )

448 04; 9am-5pm 9am-5pm ) Choose Choose % pns ( h

1-4.30pm Tue- ) The hotel The hotel p This camp- h 450 65; Sülfmeister- pn 791 500; www.campro % (

2240; www.bremer-hof.de; % 3080; www.bergstroem.de; 3080; www.bergstroem.de; (

After sundown, the sundown, the After ) % % ( 418 64; www.jugendherberge ( ; Lüneburg’s tourist office tourist ; Lüneburg’s

Brauereimuseum

200 80; www.hotel-scheffler.de; 200 80; www.hotel-scheffler.de; % LÜNEBURGER HEIDE •• Lüneburg ( %

( cycling pni

Deutsches Salzmuseum looking at the history of beer-making in beer-making looking at the history of Hotel Bremer Hof Hotel Bergström There’s also a There’s DJH hostel Scheffler Many tourists come to the Lüneburger the Lüneburger come to tourists Many with brickwork, stained glass, carved wooden animal trophies and indoor plants. stair-rails, and cosy, and low-ceilinged The rooms are on site. a restaurant there’s Lüner Strasse 12-13; s €50-100, d €80-125; comfortable accommodation in the more historic main house. Room 76 is particularly exposed ceiling beams. striking, with huge Bei der Lüner Mühle; s €125-145, d €160-195; has dozens of different pamphlets outlining pamphlets outlining different of has dozens routes. MUSEUMS The €4/2.50/2.70; strasse 1; adult/child/student Mon-Fri, Sat & Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm 10am-5pm Oct-Apr) food preservative precious the town made an important player in the Hanseatic such League. free; Heiligengeiststrasse 39; admission Sun) Sleeping Rote Schleuse Lüneburg per adult/car & tent €4.80/5.70) teschleuse.de; the centre south of ing ground is about 3.5km with scattered a woodsy terrain and offers Schleuse. bus 5600 to Rote Take fruit trees. .de/jh/lueneburg; Soltauer Strasse 133; dm under/over 26yr €16.50/19.50; lights from the glass- glow a warm welcome this spacious, modern and walled stairwell of in the town’s south, luxurious hostel relatively However, do call right near the university. is not always staffed. Bus ahead as reception services – 5011 or 5012 from the train station run very – don’t to Scharnhorstrasse/DJH either. late, Bardowicker Strasse 7; s/d €55/85; quirky char- with Lüneburg’s most in keeping you greets the Markt this place just off acter, lonelyplanet.com to go Heide this city, which once housed more than 80 once housedthis city, which more breweries. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation older, cheaper rooms in the 1970s concrete rooms in the 1970s concrete older, cheaper or plump for block at the courtyard’s rear, A little bit of New York loft living can be had New York loft A little bit of this luxury in the ‘Lüner Mühle’ section of explains (in German only) how Lüneburg’s explains (in German only) how Lüneburg’s

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Fountain...... Heinrich Heine Haus...... Industrie- and Handelskammer Building...... B3 1) Rathaus...... (see St Johanniskirche...... St Michaeliskirche...... Brauereimuseum...... Court of Justice...... Ducal Palace...... Altenbrückertorstr 723 110; www.kurzentrum.de;

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Neue Auf dem Meere dem Auf LÜNEBURGER HEIDE •• Lüneburg Lüneburg •• HEIDE LÜNEBURGER INFORMATION Lüneburg Tourist-Information Office.. Lüneburg Tourist-Information 17) Post Office...... (see Spielhalle Westbahnhof ...... Spielhalle Westbahnhof D2 Auf der Altstadt Loreley Court of Justice Heinrich Heine Haus 10 Tours of the building’s interior leave daily leave the building’s interior of Tours Other buildings around the Markt include include Other buildings around the Markt LÜNEBURG

2 3 1

from the Markt and veer left, you’ll come to left, you’ll come to and veer from the Markt courthouse. West of that, on the corner of that, on the corner of courthouse. West of is and Am Ochsenmarkt, Burmeisterstrasse ). p490 rock, see DEM MEERE & ST MICHAELISKIRCHE AUF If you continue west along Waagestrasse the the wrote Lüneburg, who hated Heine, parents. the of justice being carried out throughout the justice being carried out throughout the of centuries; and the former the the with paintings depicting scenes area like trance on Am Ochsenmarkt. at 11am, 12.30pm and 3pm (€4.50/3.50/11.50 per adult/concession/family) from the en- and three tiers of statues. The top row of statues statues. The top row of of tiers and three (from left to right):on the façade represents with the big (the one Trade, Peace Strength, sword), Justice and Moderation. The steeple, bells, was in- topped with 41 Meissen stalled birthday in 1956. on the city’s 1000th added in 1720, decorated with coats of arms with coats of added in 1720, decorated 612

LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER

ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ LOWER SAXONY

124 124 615 and %

( tower 11am- h is under Unesco is under Unesco 179 1640; Domhof; adult/ in and around Lap- whose lofty spire of- spire whose lofty % St Andreaskirche (

344 10; Michaelisplatz; admission 344 10; 10am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sat, noon- 10am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sat, wheel-shaped chandelier % (

conspiracy theories here, conspiracy theories here, (Column of Christ) are also Christ) are (Column of h (Bernward bronze doors) have (Bernward have doors) bronze Jewish Quarter Dom-Museum , with rotating exhibitions and the , with rotating and the exhibitions 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Christussäule h Off Weg is Hoher The allure of the rosebush lies in its sup- of The allure The church’s The church’s Ultimately, though, it looks much like like though,it looks much Ultimately, Da Vinci Code Da Vinci please!). the an there’s keen, really original, and if you’re attached concession €3.50/2; 5pm Sun) cathedral treasury. CHURCHES OTHER the Romanesque doors, the cathedral Like St Michaeliskirche free; Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun Nov-Mar) Built in 1022 and reconstructed protection. it has been under- war damage, extensive after be seen and should in going another makeover gleaming new detail from 2007. yet more adult/concession €1.50/1; 34; Andreasplatz; 4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun) 364 steps are a sweeping There view. fers to the top. LAPPENBERG The former town. section is the oldest of Square penberg because, while local fire remains it Most of let the synagogue burn to the ground crews Bernwardstüren aren’t and they visual impact, greater much pay-per-view. Em- which one on posed as the very history and other the Pious left his cloak peror Ludwig they miraculously effects in AD 815, where stayed rise Its -like from theft. safe after cathedral remains from the burnt-out the bush’s mystique. 1945 has only added to any other rose: something you wouldn’t say are which doors, about the bronze cathedral 1015 and Dating from Unesco-protected. only because prel- a concerned WWII saved they be stashed insisted a basement, in ate the Bible’s Old and they depict scenes from reliefs. in three-dimensional New Testaments scene in each A plaque to the left describes German, however,easy to identify each it’s man, Adam of from the creation one yourself: the garden of banishment from and Eve’s wise the three to Eden, and Cain and Abel, Christ, and Mary the birth of men attending his crucified body (no attending Magdalene , , the Tausend- Hildeshe- 8.30am-6pm on the east side 8.30am-6pm 179 1760; Domhof; Wedekindhaus . However, the h Marktbrunnen , is about as old as h % 179 80; www a very comprehen- a very % Rathaus ( Markt (1000-year-old rosebush; adult/ 697 2088; Friesenstrasse 20;

. (Butchers’ Guild Hall) and Guild Hall) (Butchers’ in the cloister of the of in the cloister % SOUTH & EAST HANOVER OF •• Hildesheim ( (Bahnhofsplatz 3-4; (Bakers’ Guild Hall). In many In many Hall). Guild (Bakers’ barely tempers its appeal. Peo- tempers barely 10am-midnight) Internet access. 10am-midnight) Wollenweberhaus Hildesheim 301 163; Markt €2/1; 7-8; adult/concession

, h (Hildesheim Cathedral;

% ( 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun May-Oct, 10am- 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) One original feature is the One original feature Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) museum h the fountain in front of (bells play folk songs at noon, the square of 1pm and 5pm daily). DOM to see tiny entrance fee the a There’s jähriger Rosenstock concession €0.50/0.30) imer Dom h 4.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun Nov-Apr) on the cathedral’s almost 5m-high bas-reliefs Main post office Tele.Net.Journal Tourist Office Sights & Activities sells office For just €1, the tourist the Rosenroute, Hildesheimer guide to all Hildesheim’s sights. It’s avail- sive able in several including English, languages, staying a and is particularly useful if you’re days. few MARKT place was recon- town’s central market The in traditional style during the 1980s, structed stand no longer locals decided they could after the typical ‘German hideous’ style in postwar How- the town was originally repaired. which ever, knowing that the The Simpsons and ‘aah’ as they gaze around, ple still ‘ooh’ particularly at the (clockwise from north) Rokokohaus Knochenhauerhaus Bäckeramtshaus cases, you can see the behind the façade, too: is now home to the Meridien Rokokohaus houses and the Knochenhauerhaus Hotel, also a local history and there’s a restaurant lonelyplanet.com Friesenstrasse and, strip of drinking find the old Jewish south, the further 10 minutes quarter. Information per hr €1.50; .hildesheim.com; Rathausstrasse 20; Mon-Fri, to 3.30pm Sat) Office mean this office renovations at Rathausstrassemight still be in temporary lodgings 18 into 2007. lonelyplanet.com 05121 / pop 102,700 If you’re going by car, the B216 leads to going by car, the B216 leads to If you’re Continuing along Hoher Weg, instead Weg, instead Continuing along Hoher and the tourist office. office, you turning left for the tourist of a central bus stop. To the hit Schuhstrasse, right (west), the road heads to the cathedral und Pelizaeus-Museum. and the Roemer- Straight you’ll ahead across Schuhstrasse a picture-book ‘medieval’ town centre that’s that’s ‘medieval’ town centre a picture-book ancient and the genuinely a glorious fake, clev- were which cathedral door bas-reliefs, that WWII firebombing from the erly saved to the ground on 22 March razed Hildesheim rosebush ‘1000-year-old’ 1945. A legendary this attack from the ashes of that re-emerged also attracts pilgrims. Orientation the is 750m south of The central Markt from the sta- To walk there Hauptbahnhof. the pedestrianisedtion, take Bernwardstrasse, Weg. becomes Almsstrasse and Hoher which Weg into Turning left, or east, from Hoher or Rathausstrasse either Markstrasse will lead you to Hildesheim’s stunning centre, No trains run to Bleckede, but buses leave at but buses leave No trains run to Bleckede, at Am Sande or least hourly from Lüneburg the Hauptbahnhof. crosses A car ferry the turn-off to Bleckede. at the turn-off and in Neu Darchau the river to the south. SOUTH & EAST OF HANOVER HILDESHEIM % flock- visitors things in particular have Two city: and market ing to this former bishopric Getting There & Around Getting There & Around

. 05852-958 Elberadweg % ( 557 77)

10am-6pm Tue-Sat 10am-6pm Tue-Sat % also has plenty (

h Elbschloss Bleckede (literally ‘hay hotels’), where farmers set up straw bunks in their barns so bunks in their barns so farmers set up straw where ‘hay hotels’), (literally 194 10. You can hire 194 10. You can hire . If you intend to come to come . If you intend % Hauptbahnhof Heu Hotels tourist information office in Bleckede. The in Bleckede. 10am-6pm Tue-Sat Apr-Oct,10am-6pm Tue-Sat 10am-5pm Wed-Sun SOUTH & EAST & SOUTH HANOVER OF Hildesheim •• If you read German, visit www.heuhotel.de for further visit www.heuhotel.de German, details. If you read

05852-951 40; www.elbschloss-bleckede.de, in German; h A ROLL IN THE HAY IN THE HAY A ROLL farm accommodation excellent network of Lower Saxony has an German states, other Like several and several countryside, way to spend time in the It’s an interesting small fee. them out for a they can rent comfortable horse usually much more than they sound. Some have (if odorous) and they are bare-bones, all some are While and other activities. lakes,riding, swimming in winter sledding region with tourist offices in the Check get downright luxurious. and many in winter heated are Heide in the Lüneburger country accommodation for finding two best centres The for listings. itself. and Lüneburg Celle are For a taxi, call

For more information, you should con- information, you should For more If you’re driving from Hamburg, take the the take driving from Hamburg, If you’re

%

Schlossstrasse 10; adult/child €4/2; Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Wed-Sun Nov-Mar) 10; Nov-Mar) ( tact the 458; www.elbtalaue-touristik.de, in German; Strasse Breite in the area. in the area. it is well stocked with brochures on accom- with brochures it is well stocked available modation and activities that are office in Lüneburg first. You should find that find that You should first. office in Lüneburg wetland, which is all part of the is all part of wetland, which (www.elberadweg.de; p216 ) River. Cyclists and hikers will be well will be well and hikers Cyclists Elbe River. and interesting by this picturesque rewarded the Lüneburger Heide. The reserve is a haven The reserve is a haven Heide. the Lüneburger storks, wild geese as white such for birdlife and cranes, and runs for 85km along the Elbe Floodplain Biosphere) are located some some located are Elbe Floodplain Biosphere) of in a wetland area Lüneburg, 20km east of The Bleckede and the Biosphärenreservat Biosphärenreservat the and Bleckede The Elbtalaue (Lower-Saxony Niedersächsische NATURPARK ELBUFER-DRAWEHN ELBUFER-DRAWEHN NATURPARK ning at around 7pm. Single tickets are €1.60; €1.60; are ning at around 7pm. Single tickets €3.20. cost day tickets Buses leave from the ZOB central bus station central bus station ZOB from the Buses leave and from the busy bus at the Hauptbahnhof Most servicesstop on Am Sande. stop run- B209, and you’ll eventually get to town. From to town. From B209, and you’ll eventually get the A7 north to the B209. take Hanover, Getting Around No 7 (Talkau). From there, turn south on the turn south on the there, From No 7 (Talkau). 614 A7 south to the B250. From Schwerin take take From Schwerin A7 south to the B250. west and then exit the B6 south to the A24 out here, make sure you drop by the tourist you drop by the tourist sure make out here, bicycles at the of information on the biosphere. of LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

, 617 Dom St Blasii (Brunswick (Brunswick 470 2040; www 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 3-5pm) 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, % h h ( h 243 350; www.braunschweigerdom % (Berliner Platz 12-16) Near the Braunschweiger Löwe (Friedrich-Wilhelm-Strasse 3; to 1pm Sat) connecting Wallstrasse with the intersection Leopoldstrasseof and Friedrich-Wilhelm- but women unsafe, Strasse. It’s not considered might be whistled at and gener- who go there ally harassed. Sights & Activities identity is so tied up with Braunschweig’s it’s best not to fight der Löwe, it and Heinrich text, (see the duke boxed to learn a little about p619 ). The around town, lion) statue you see replicated is the but most prominently on Burgplatz, the original ordered city’s symbol. Heinrich his power to be built in 1166 as a symbol of and jurisdiction; you can see the original at ). p618 ( Dankwarderode Burg DOM ST BLASII is in the crypt of tomb Heinrich’s (St Blasius Cathedral; .de; Domplatz 5; crypt admission €1; In Mathilde. wife he lies alongside his where the life, duke’s postscript to the a macabre and in 1935 Nazis decided to coopt his image exhumed his tomb to conduct an ‘archaeo- Hitler paid a visit. Even logical investigation’. However, the corpse found inside had one leg than the other (it’s known that Hein- shorter horse-riding accident a terrible suffered rich and the master-race and dark hair, in life) late quiet on the subject propagandists went very Orientation town centre, in the historic sightsMost are bounded by Konrad- rectangle a distorted to the south, Güldenstrasse Adenauer-Strasse Langeto the west, Strasse to the north and east. However, to the the arty quarter Bohlweg Anton and the Herzog the Magniviertel of MuseumUlrich east. lie just to the old town’s it the lending the centre, A moat surrounds One-way sys- an island. of compact character driving. may causetems problems if you’re Information Main post office Hauptbahnhof. Post Tourist Service Braunschweig Dangers & Annoyances is in the alley district The city’s red-light .braunschweig.de; Vor der Burg 1; .braunschweig.de; to 4pm Sat) Well The lop- 331 33; Am Steine 4- 331 33; Am Steine % (

dinner Mon-Sat) h (just behind Schuhstrasse), Schuhstrasse), (just behind SOUTH & EAST HANOVER OF •• Braunschweig 691 530; Hohnsen 28; mains €8-19) Hohnsen 28; mains 691 530; % (

Friesenstrasse 0531 / pop 245,800 Having spent most of the post-WWII pe- spent most of Having For further options, there’s a popular strip For further options, there’s Schlegels Weinstuben For thoseA7 runs right driving, the by within Most sights are in Hildesheim Noah riod near the Iron Curtain, it doesn’t have a riod near the Iron Curtain, a it doesn’t have for sightseeing, reputation but with a great artefacts, collections of glittering couple of and its quaint Magniviertel cobbled streets district it can soon grow on you. BRAUNSCHWEIG BRAUNSCHWEIG % der Löwe Heinrich as the city of Still famous this nine centuries after Lion) the (Henry made it his capital,powerful medieval duke its past as (Brunswick) reveals Braunschweig separate settlements with a slightlyfive me- andering and confusing but pleasant historic old town. fish. However, in summer there are some- are fish. However,in summer there bus 2 to Theodor Storm Take times barbecues. Strasse/. 6; mains €12.50-24.50; 500-year-old this rose-covered, sided walls of und beside the Roemer- house hunkering sheer just add to the Pelizaeus-Museum a group of Inside, there’s the place. magic of one corner, a round, historic rooms and, in glass-topped table from a well, fashioned far the water you can dine overlooking where international the ever-changing beneath. As it’s advisablecuisine is also exceptional, to book ahead. along usually sell cheap the pubs and bars where meals. Getting There & Around train services regional Frequent be- operate (€6.20, 30 tween Hanover Hildesheim and while ICE trains head to Braunsch- minutes), (€22, Göttingen and weig (€13, 25 minutes) 30 minutes). while the B1 goes to town from Hanover, Hamelin. walking distance, but buses you to will take and accommodation, as outlying restaurants city cost €1.80, daily Single tickets indicated. €5.15. tickets lonelyplanet.com this town, of journey out the short worth of views bistro enjoys great airy, glass-walled is Mediter- fare The normal a peaceful lake. including modern cuisine, ranean-influenced ) )

ns pn 140 21; www % ( lonelyplanet.com

171 70; www.accorhotels % (

300 600; www.starwoodhotels % Generally billed as a tapas ( With its trimmed hedges, With its trimmed hedges,

145 35; Dammstrasse 30; mains €8- 399 27; Hindenburgplatz 3; tapas €3-9, Old meets new at this midrange Old meets new at this midrange ) % % ( Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation (

pn

closed Mon) h Dorint Novotel Hotel Die Insel Meridien Hotel Hotel Bürgermeisterkapelle tablecloths and Tiffany lampshades, it’s not and Tiffany tablecloths in a former mill restaurant surprising this cute citi- mature is a hit with Hildesheim’s more zens. Its location on a small, leafy ‘island’ in the town’s canals means one of the middle of and is an ideal spot to enjoy coffee its terrace in summer. cake Eating & Drinking Eating & Drinking Café Desseo is actually much bar, this excellent venue catch-all an all-rounder – the one of more to file in your little black Hildesheim address (€6) and book. All-you-can-eat breakfasts joined by (€6.90 – with jelly!) are lunches sandwiches, delicious wraps, pasta, pizza and a In addition to all this there’s other dishes. and good cocktails area nonsmoking large an evening. of .com; Bahnhofsallee 38; s €120-130, d €140-165; and warm beige, Furnishings in black and sea superior like grass–style carpet, touches been added to the exposed brick walls of have building to imbue this spacious stone cloister Summer dis- style. it with cosy designer-chic offered. counts are .com/lemeridien; Markt 4; s €135-155, d €155-175; Behind on the central its historic frontage into opens out place, this luxury hotel market building. Through the a surprisingly large atrium entrance, you’ll find flagstone-floored yellow of in shades upbeat rooms decorated in summer. cheaper Prices are and red. associated café for supplies. The 10 rooms The café for supplies. associated otherwise The but spotless. fairly generic, are entrance; own apartment-style place has its betweenyou need 8am and 6pm to to arrive from the patisserie. collect the key .hotelbuergermeisterkapelle.de; Rathausstrasse 8; s €55-85, d €80-135; has been The lobby hotel. nicely renovated the rooms done up in blonde and most of tones, but the restaurant wood and green rustic, with ancient and dim-lit halls remain flower pots and book- wood-cut pictures, rooms can cost as The unrenovated shelves. offer ones, but don’t as the refurbished much the same quality. 20; hanging pots of blazing geraniums, blue blue blazing geraniums, hanging pots of other dishes €4.40-14) This is a Roemer- und , now owned , now owned on Hinterer on Hinterer 346 86; www.timphus % ( 179 213; www.gaestehaus 936 90; www.rpmuseum.de, in 936 90; www.rpmuseum.de, in Jewish school % (

% ( 427 17; www.jugendherberge.de/jh

Wernesches Haus Walls here are bedecked with bedecked are Walls here ) In the morning, guests here In the morning, guests here ) % (

n . There are dozens of mummies, dozens of are . There SOUTH & EAST & SOUTH HANOVER OF Hildesheim ••

pni 10am-6pm) Gästehaus-Café Timphus While down this way, take time to check time to check this way, take While down

Gästehaus Klocke DJH hostel

might door to the going next mean you keep €72-82, tr €108; displays, which artful chocolate photos of -conditorei-hotel.de; Braunschweiger Strasse 90/91; s €50-62, d -conditorei-hotel.de; quirky gem, which feels a bit like a mini-castle a bit like feels which quirky gem, stairwell as its high-ceilinged upon entering, has a landing with a stained-glass window, quite The rooms aren’t set and chairs. chess nevertheless. character as amazing but have the canal from is just south over The hotel quarter. the Jewish -klocke.de; d €75-80) Humboldtstrasse 11; s €45-55, Hof. Get off at the TriftstrasseHof. stop and walk 750m uphill. the remaining To get here catch bus 1 or 2 to Schuhstrasse bus 1 or 2 to Schuhstrasse catch here To get Im Koken- of to 4 in the direction and change they’re doing here and look in a hurry to leave. and look in a hurry to leave. doing here they’re /hildesheim; Schirrmannweg 4; dm under/over 26yr €16.50/ 19.50; trade fairs, when accommodation prices rise when accommodation trade fairs, phenomenally. Its proximity to Hanover means Hild- to Hanover Its proximity guests during overspill takes esheim often Sleeping Sleeping scrolls, statues and wall hangings, but the scrolls, statueswall hangings, but the and tomb (of an Egyptian of re-creation life-size Sennefer) highlight. is a particular German; Am Steine 1-2; adult/concession/family €8/6/14; h Pelizaeus-Museum ROEMER- UND PELIZAEUS-MUSEUM ROEMER- UND PELIZAEUS-MUSEUM Egyptian best collections of Europe’s One of in the is found art and artefacts out the quaint the oldest buildings is one of Brühl, which in Hildesheim. following the outline of its foundations and outline of following the Jerusalem. model of topped by a 1988, on the 50th anniversary, a memorial 50th anniversary, 1988, on the the synagogue, was installed of on the site included the former included the In on the corner. Church, by St Godehard’s on Kristallnacht in November 1938, they res- 1938, November in on Kristallnacht These housescued other square. around the 616 often act as though they’ve just had an em- act as though they’ve often hos- barrassing one-night stand. It’s a great with modern facilities and a good really, tel, lo- But it’s just so inconveniently breakfast. that many seemcated to be wondering what LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

zwan- 619 on the Altstadt (Ackerhof, cnr Gewandhaus Restaurants at Bäckerklint, at Bäckerklint, , actually three , actually three cats statue covers German his- covers (200 billion) and (200 billion) (Am Magnitor).

Happy RizziHouse (20 million) mark notes from the mark notes (20 million) Magnikirche . Inside the Rathaus is the magnifi- Till Eulenspiegel Brunnen Till Kids will like the playful Kids will like MAGNIVIERTEL MAGNIVIERTEL around the 11th- this arty quarter Don’t miss century many colonised the area’s have and bars half-timbered are houses and there restored eye- Particularly boutique stores. some great is the catching Georg-Eckert-Strasse & Schlossstrasse) by American colourful buildings decorated Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, Wed & Thu) to 8pm Tue, It’s particu- perspective. a local tory from German, if you understand larly engaging as the some visual displays, such but also has zweihundert Milliarden zig Millionen and Weimar Republic the days of inflationary der Löwe made Heinrich statue of the huge will appeal to all. from nails, that OLD TOWN places in Braunschweig, Of the several market the an original township, representing each the most appealing, Altstadtmarkt is arguably Renaissance with the step-gabled the Gothic (1303, façade 1590) and Rathaus cent Dronse meeting hall. The tourist of- detailsfice can help with individual on other buildings. and the Damm and Kattreppeln corner of lovely with Till sitting above owls and monkeys. sitting above with Till when German settlers moved east of the Elbe and east of the Elbe and when German settlers moved 122 121 %

% ( 10am-5pm 10am-5pm h h Ostkolonisation, (State Museum; 11am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, & Thu-Sun, Tue 11am-5pm

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. Artefacts, including an . Artefacts, , including golden sculp- , including 10am-11am Tue & Thu-Sun, 2.30-4pm 10am-11am Tue SOUTH & EAST HANOVER OF •• Braunschweig Anton Ulrich had an eye for Anton Ulrich Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum h (

Landesmuseum Utz, is now a museum. is now It houses a glitter- The duke of both Saxony and , Heinrich founded not only Braunschweig, but Munich, duke of both Saxony and Bavaria, Heinrich founded not only Braunschweig, but Munich, The clan, Heinrich’s family connections no doubt helped him ascend to such of the Welfen Part a period of Heinrich oversaw Stripped of his lands, Heinrich spent three years in exile (1182–1185) in Normandy with his years in exile (1182–1185) in Normandy with his Stripped of his lands, Heinrich spent three medieval collection THE LION KING THE LION KING unknown outside its bounda- (1129–1195) is relatively in Germany, Heinrich the Löwe Legendary his downfall, Barbarossa engineered and Holy Roman Emperor Frederick until his cousin Yet, ries. he was one of the most powerful nobles in 12th-century Europe. from the north his domain stretched and the height of his reign, At too. Lübeck and Lüneburg (in Poland). Baltic coasts to the Alps, and from Westphalia to Pomerania Mathilde, was dukes and his second, English wife, His father and grandfathers were heights. as also renowned, were his military ability and acumen However, Richard the Lionheart’s sister. and ambition. his greed were Saale rivers. But then he refused to help Barbarossa on an ill-fated incursion into Lombardy – he incursion into Lombardy – he to help Barbarossa on an ill-fated But then he refused Saale rivers. – and the emperor took him to court Goslar in exchange, Barbarossa refused and had wanted of disobedience. him convicted another brief exile in 1188, he died in Braunschweig Henry II (King of England). After father-in-law, in 1195 and was entombed in its cathedral. Upstairs is a huge, spectacularly adorned is a huge, Upstairs Tue & Thu-Sun, 1-8pm Wed) Tue Knights’ Hall MUSEUM HERZOG ANTON ULRICH Heinrich not always about is Braunschweig (1633– Anton Ulrich Another duke, der Löwe. with an impressive 1714) left Braunschweig compulsive Bruce Chatwin’s Like legacy too. collector as well as for – porcelain figures miniature painting, and all types of furniture crockery, from Chinese Now the thou- to European. are pieces he assembledsands in his lifetime of found in the Museumstrasse50; www.braunschweig-museum.de; 1; adult/ €3/1.50; concession incl Burg Dankworderode and the most escapades through the years, Fürstenburg museumcomplete collection of Unfortunately, here. are porcelain anywhere, means that opening funding often lack of (as at staggered are floors times for different Dankworderode), so ring ahead. Burg LANDESMUSEUM The city’s 50; Burgplatz; adult/concession €2.50/1.30; lonelyplanet.com 1-8pm Wed) ing Wed) 1-2.30pm & 4-8pm arms, medieval the original capes, and of tures statuebronze lion cast in 1166. Wed). ancient Roman onyx cup that survived some

B3 B4 D3 A5 A5 B5 A5 Bertramstr 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 Villierstr

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Lessing- Weisenhaus- (1.4km) Domplatz Wendenstr 3 Hinter Park (600m);

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INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Rose Burg Dankwarderode...... Cats statue...... Dom St Blasii...... Gewandhaus...... Happy Rizzi House ...... Tourist Service Braunschweig ...... Altstadt Rathaus...... Braunschweiger Löwe Statue...... Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum...... D4 Maschstr Umflu

On the cathedral’s northern side is the is the northern side On the cathedral’s Westlicher BRAUNSCHWEIG

5 2 3 1 4

To Jolly Joker (600m) Eulenstr duke’s pet lion, trying to get to its master to its master get pet lion, trying to duke’s largely Gothic building’s only remaining Ro- Gothic building’s only remaining largely ‘claw sports so-called which manesque door, left by the marks’. Legend has it thesewere after that. There were also questions over the over also questions were There that. after as to whether some doubt and gender body’s the sarcophagus. in Heinrich it’s really 618 LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

621 862 80; %

( 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, Meier-Music-Hall h and 618 3399; www.toxic-bs.de; 618 3399; www.toxic-bs.de; . % (

Fri & Sat) h Toxic , in Stadtmarkt, Bahnhofstrasse take Tourist Information Wölfenbüttel 232 050; www.meier-music-hall.de; Schmalbachstrasse; Schmalbachstrasse; 232 050; www.meier-music-hall.de; 05331 / pop 54,500 Fri plus special events) & Sat Any bus or tram going to ‘Rathaus’from one-way are that there If driving, be aware The A2 runs east–west between Hanover betweenThe A2 runs east–west Hanover You probably don’t need any- You probably to know about % transport network that extends through- transport network that extends and as far south as the Harz out the region prices are Mountains. Bus and tram ticket by time, not distance: determined 90-minute €4.20. cost €1.90, 24-hour tickets tickets you to the centre will get the Hauptbahnhof from the same side thesein 10 minutes; leave as the public transport information booth just outside the train station. Trams 1 or 2 and these. among buses 419 and 420 are all around the Altstadt. Alternatively, systems parking by the train station. there’s WOLFENBÜTTEL % mit Bedacht’ your time) is the (take ‘Alles little city, this friendly, charming motto of by train from Braunschweig, about 10 minutes mentioned First but worlds away in attitude. was virtually untouched in 1118, Wolfenbüttel by WWII, and it’s almost a time capsule of 600 of over half-timbered are houses – there them, nearly all beautifully restored. Orientation & Information walk is a five-minute The Hauptbahnhof To Stadtmarkt, the town centre. southwest of to get Stadtmarkt 7; www.wolfenbuettel.com; to 1pm Sat) thing other than the Jolly Joker, but if that’s but if that’s Jolly Joker, other than the thing mainstream other popular, not to your tastes, clubs include Böcklerstrasse 30-31; ( h Getting There & Away IC and RE services regular are to Hano- There and IC trains minutes) (from €14, 35 to 45 ver to Leipzig trains go to ICE (€35, two hours). Berlin or Frank- (€46, one hour 20 minutes) furt (€68, 2¾ hours). across the northern end of and Magdeburg with the A39 about the city. This connects heads north to the city, which 25km east of The A39 also heads south from Wolfsburg. the city. Getting Around an integrated of is at the heart Braunschweig

or the Subway, or A slightly A slightly This young, Braunschweiger Braunschweiger Spacious and from 10am) Cocktail 243 900; Güldenstrasse 7; mains 243 900; Güldenstrasse Other Braunschweig Other Braunschweig h . 480 3503; Altes Knochenhauer- The bistro/bar of choice choice The bistro/bar of %

Braunschweig Bietet Braunschweig ( 157 09; Kalenwall 3) % (

SOUTH & EAST HANOVER OF •• Wolfenbüttel a roast stuffed with mincemeat % ( 0800-244 255, 281 4660; Broitzemerstrasse

from 6pm) 181 28; Gieselerstrasse 3) (Südstrasse 31;

% Hin & Weg Hin (

h % ( from 10pm Tue-Sat)

Widely regarded as Braunschweig’s lead- Braunschweig’s as Widely regarded h Merz Knochenhauer Liro Dando Hochdrei Hansestube/Boom upbeat café bar is the place to come for cheap upbeat café bar is the place to come for cheap at €1. drinks, with vodka kicking off Entertainment Jolly Joker 220; is not clubs come and go, but the Jolly Joker it’s still than 20 years, more after just here by local punters. the city’s best being voted in 2001, this venue overhaul Since a major four separate 4000 features with a capacity of cock- including a huge dance spaces, 10 bars tail bar, and several food outlets. Expect top hits. The same100 dance-chart complex also houses a cinema. €9-17) these establishments sister ing restaurants, half-timbered house servein a renovated a inter- modern seasonally of menu changing Or enjoy the national cuisine. Mummbraten, and served in a sauce based on Mumme, a The room is malt extra. local non-alcoholic with lots dining area divided into an elegant and a and dark wood (Hansestube) glass of informal bistro (Boom). more Drinking for is a good district to head The Magniviertel drinks, with several pubs. More traditional listings can be found in strasse 11; on a summer eve buzzes with chenhauer for drinks or light together friends getting also DJs on Friday and are snacks. There Saturday night. with table an attached football, relaxed, club (Schwanensee)weekend playing house and soul classics, and a beer garden, Merz also Snacks are is a long-standing favourite. served. be found here, and older crowd can trendier just around the corner from Merz. lonelyplanet.com at din- up a notch steps but at lunch, simple and vegetarian fish, meat, of an array ner, with seasonalcan be and cake specialities. Coffee had in between times. the tourist office’s quarterly among Braunschweig’s hip, casual set, hip, among Braunschweig’s Kno-

A Spargel Spargel Its lav- In the In the This ‘Mother lonelyplanet.com succeeds because succeeds because 422 36; Stephanstrasse 1;

459 56; Papenstieg 3; mains 459 56; Papenstieg % ( lunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sun)

% ( (flat bread), salads, doners, salads, doners, (flat bread),

h 11am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat) pide h 123 4595; Magnitorwall mains €3- 18; lunch Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation 165 67; Südstrasse 24; dishes €2-5.50) 165 67; Südstrasse % (

% (

242 777; Altstadtmarkt 1-2; dishes €4-26) Rondo Restaurant Brodocz Stechinelli’s Kartoffel-Keller & Gewandhaus Mutter Habenicht functional. The central, but fortunately not not fortunately but The central, functional. is another plus. too noisy, location % indulge in potatoes over three courses in cas- courses three in potatoesindulge over from potato soup to potato ual Stechinelli’s, waffles for dessert. Gewandhaus specialises given generally althoughyou’re in schnitzel, both restaurants. a menu that covers building, Rondo has a modern bistro-style with dramatic photos of room decorated terrace Callas, plus a roof opera diva Maria city views. The food is plain and offering Balkan Seasonal dish. like specialities also served asparagus) are (white in the dimly in the front room, or lit, bric-a-brac-filled small beer the back. garden out mains €6.50-15; Braunsch- this restaurant, Long a vegetarian weig institution now specialises in piscine delights, with everything from English-style and salmon to dorade, perch fish and chips though,on the menu. For old times’ sake, it still serves ratatouille. ( the Rathaus,basement of these adjacent res- touristy, but handy reasonably taurants are you can you wish, as they open daily. Should Eating Eating Tandir of ish displays guar- have baklava dishes and fried vegetable in the an enduring position anteed this place outlets. fast-food Turkish of city’s panoply €5.50) €5.50-15, weekday lunch menus cupboard, a bare doesn’t have Hubbard’ sure schnitzels, of as she dishes up filling portions occasional ribs and the potatoes, spare steaks, 6, dinner mains €7-20; great find on the top floor of the Stadttheater the Stadttheater find on the top floor of great 244 400; www Friendly staff ) % 241 024; www.palais ( 730 79; www.hotel p

471 30; www.stadthotel-magni.de, in German; Am Magnitor 1; s €55-80, d €80-110, % (

% ( % (

243 210; www.fruehlingshotel This former 18th-century ) % (

Easily the best of several half-timbered hotels in town, this place hotels half-timbered Easily the best of several pn This YMCA-run hotel is just north hotel This YMCA-run ) SOUTH & EAST & SOUTH HANOVER OF Braunschweig ••

p This pleasant enough, slightly granny- ) of its location and interior. The historic black-and-white façade looks as it would have centuries centuries façade looks as it would have black-and-white historic The of its location and interior. a sense of space and light unusual to create white been painted rooms have ago, but up-to-date straying from the white, keep things chic by rarely Furnishings in such claustrophobic buildings. Two or three and black theme, although a touch of colour is added by the hall paintings. grey To cap it all, the place has cheaper than the rest. low ceilings, but these are very rooms do have right in the charming Magniviertel. bar and restaurant, a trendy Stadthotel Magnitor Stadthotel THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE CHOICE THE AUTHOR’S ste €100-160) Best Western Stadtpalais

Frühlings-Hotel CVJM Hotel am Wollmarkt Hotel Café am Park

a good balance between historic and modern. cre- gilt and blue furnishings cream, Lots of has been taken care while great interest, ate that the place is comfortable and to ensure 140, d €90-155; works, striking that really palace is now a hotel even a tiny gym of sorts – a step-machine sorts – a step-machine even a tiny gym of from a a present as left in a corridor niche guest. regular old-fashioned, but still livable, while stunning old-fashioned, There’s views. room 407 has good rooftop accommodation on the top floor is a little floor with reception and guest lounge plus and guest lounge floor with reception pleasant bedrooms make of categories three the cheaper of Some this an excellent choice. .de; Bankplatz 7; s €65-110, d €85-145; ground with a good sensestylish humour, a of and guest lounge, with a mural of historic with a mural of and guest lounge, plus table football. Braunschweig, clean and comfortable rooms. The staff are bar a nice breakfast welcoming and there’s €110; standard, but has pretty and the centre of .hotelamwollmarkt.de; Wollmarkt 9-12; s €55-60, d €85-95, tr .hotelamwollmarkt.de; Wollmarkt town and relatively handy for the train station. town and relatively The café serves homemade cakes. p Garni is near a park to the south of style Hotel -cafeampark.de; s/d from €32/50; Strasse 67; Wolfenbüttler frequently disappointing in Braunschweig. disappointing in Braunschweig. frequently so ask the tourist a hostel, is no longer There rooms. private office about Sleeping Sleeping and is both scarce accommodation Budget pop artist James Rizzi. Hearts are a recurring recurring a are Rizzi. Hearts James pop artist while curved on the façade, theme windows murals. facial of parts form integral 620 -braunschweig.bestwestern.de; Hinter-braunschweig.bestwestern.de; Liebfrauen 1a; s €70- LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY , 623 828 540; 10am-6pm %

( Planetarium h It has a rundown 266 90; Porschestrasse 53; 266 90; Porschestrasse 53; % Stadt Museum 11am-8pm Tue, to 6pm Wed-Sun) 11am-8pm Tue, h , built in 1951 and now restored , built in 1951 and now restored 219 39; Uhlandweg 2; adult/concession/

(Art Museum; (Art Museum; , built in 1982 after VW bartered VW bartered , built in 1982 after that host rotating The exhibitions. % (

Esso Station Inside, however, you rarely have time to time to have however,Inside, rarely you Next to it is the city’s historic landmark, Next to it is the city’s historic landmark, If you speak German, an excellent idea If you speak German, an excellent idea appreciate the design by British-based Iraqi Iraqi by British-based the design appreciate CITY CENTRE CITY CENTRE you walk south down Porschestrasse, As building, the you’ll come to another great Kunstmuseum adult/concession €6/3; exhibitions of is home to temporary which the modern art. On the hill just southwest of is Porschestrasse southern end of Wolfsburg family €5/3/10) got laser star and and rock shows, shows performances set to the stars. spoken-word Call ahead, as show times vary. the to its original splendour. SCHLOSS WOLFSBURG In historic contrast to Autostadt’s space-age from 1600 castle dates sheen, Wolfsburg’s and today houses the Schlossstrasse 8; adult/concession €2.50/1.50; Tue-Fri, 1-6pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun). day. There’s plant was founded, to the present history museum and two also a small regional art galleries Autostadt. northeast of minutes is five Schloss Several buses, including 160, 201, 202, 208, you here. 211 and 380 will get architect Zaha Hadid. The place is full of Zaha The place is full of architect Hadid. experi- physics exhibits and 250 hands-on instructions and explanations ments (with in both German and, frequently and English) it seems,10 times as many schoolchildren up your them. You can wind all pulling at at your eyes by looking check own rocket, bridge, polystyrene bunnies, build an arched body – and your of thermal images watch so on and so on. Indeed, the place is quite physically, as well as mentally, absorbing, so it helps to set yourself some time or other limits. that poses a list is to pick up the brochure them dur- questions and try to answer of peaceful one really ing your visit. For the the building’s architecture, to savour chance for the window Look head to the canteen. at the far end to see how it cleverly frames Porschestrasse. Golfs for Zeiss with the GDR. projectors It’s of the city’s history from 1938, when the VW of and 10am- 520 71; 520 71; h % (

0180-106 0600; 0180-106 0600; Herbie, the Love Love the Herbie, % ( obstacle courses . You’ll need a valid . You’ll need a valid AutoMuseum Phaeno is pretty low-key. You pro- low-key. is pretty 10am-6pm Tue-Sun, last entry 1hr before entry 1hr before last 10am-6pm Tue-Sun, SOUTH & EAST HANOVER OF •• Wolfsburg (€25 each)

h , with toy models that can be driven be driven , with toy models that can is truly cutting edge. Sleek, curved is truly cutting edge. and movie, a Beetle movie, the built from wood, Take bus 208 to Automuseum. bus Take For a pure, competitive adrenaline rush, rush, adrenaline competitive For a pure, to other lends its cars The museum often

ring ahead to organise an English-speaking an English-speaking ring ahead to organise instructor for the park’s exhibitions, so it’s impossible to list exactly what you’ll see. However, its collection does used in the include a vehicle Hitler on his 50th birthday, and (our favour- see-through, a white, ite) iron-lace Beetle built wedding for the factory workers by Mexican some colleagues. Amphibious Beetlesof and a the show. and Golfs complete Passats few PHAENO building that houses The glass-and-concrete the science centre family €11/7/25; closing) only, and there’s a daily tour in English (at (at a daily tour in English only, and there’s the but check research, time of 1.30pm at the be Queues can detailslatest on the website). long, so heed the staff’s advice if they ask you Be that because the aware to come back later. through rotate differ- tours factory is so large, sections,ent workshop luck whether so it’s pot produced each you’ll see the 3000 cars one of day roll off the assembly line or something less as metal-pressing. such interesting, safety training and to be comfortable course, with licence, of The park even has a car. a left-hand-drive mini-course by kids. AUTOMUSEUM showbiz aplomb of the whizz-bang, After sister Autostadt, its Dieselstrasse 35; adult/concession/family €6/3/15; 5pm, closed 24 Dec-1 Jan) ceed ads (in German), through a hallway of how central its ‘cheeky you realise make which was to the Beetle’s persona chappie’ success. Then you turn the corner and a room full of confronts you. that personality Bug to Adolf original 1938 Cabriolet presented lonelyplanet.com entrance in the Included disappoint here. neighbour- trip into the a 45-minute price is than Monaco factory, bigger ing Volkswagen plant. These car leave largest and the world’s intervalsat 15-minute from Monday to Friday www.phaeno.de; Willy Brandt-Platz 1; adult/concession/ Willy Brandt-Platz www.phaeno.de; thin, it looks like a stretchy spaceship from spaceship from a stretchy thin, it looks like Planet Minimalism. (Car City; 9am-8pm Apr-Oct, to 9am-7pm) In the lonelyplanet.com (Porschestrasse 23; Autostadt h h 899 930; www % ( (Porschestrasse 22-24) 10am-11pm) Internet access. is a celebration of all things VW – so is a celebration of h 0800-288 678 238; www.autostadt.de; Stadtbrücke; adult/ Many people will be keener to do some- people will be keener Many Things kick off with a broad view of au- with a broad view of Things kick off Behind to the company wants the scenes, learn more about individual marques, includ- learn more ing VW itself, Audi, Bentley, Lamborghini, interac- exhibits are Seat Many and Skoda. in Germansignage and and most have tive English. and Autostadt doesn’t active, thing more Sights & Activities Sights & Activities AUTOSTADT hectares, across 25 Spread % child/concession/family €14/6/11/38; 6pm Nov-Mar) the company’s recent about no muttering please! boardroom scandals up the back there, to for customers centre as a luxury Conceived it soon developed into a collect new vehicles, theme park with broad family appeal. design and engineering the in tomotive Zeith-Konzernforum, while the neighbouring the Beetleaus looks back at the history of other VW models. ) and p624 text, (see boxed you can Then, in various outlying pavilions Hauptbahnhof. Head diagonally left out of diagonally left out of Head Hauptbahnhof. the train station the partly pedestrian- to and continue ised main drag, Porschestrasse, is impossible to centre south. The Phaeno to the station. To get miss, just to the left of and continue Autostadt, Phaeno walk under until you see the railway across the stairs tracks. These theme park. lead to the Information and InternetBabylon Tele- Shop Main post office Wolfsburg tourist office insignia is repeated in solidarity on almost solidarity on in is repeated insignia every vehicle. ‘Golfs- operations in high-wage scale down one after is nicknamed Wolfsburg (as burg’ models). Conversely, VW’s most successful of want in. Besides visitors the however, more Auto- theme park of successful increasingly science stadt, town now boasts the Phaeno the futuristic architecture a sleek piece of centre, Zahaby celebrity architect Hadid. Orientation the just southeast of is centre Wolfsburg’s per hr €2; 3; Willy Brandt-Platz .wolfsburg.de; train station.

10am- h a huge VW VW a huge A walk through A walk through Schloss Museum (Little Venice), (Little Venice), Herzog August Bibliothek is an excellent guide. It guide. is an excellent Metropolis, a gospel book once owned , where the living quarters the living quarters , where Klein Venedig , across the square, that will most , across the square, SOUTH & EAST & SOUTH OF HANOVER •• Wolfsburg

924 60; Schlossplatz 13; adult/concession/family €3/2/4; 924 60; Schlossplatz 13; adult/concession/family 808 214; Lessingplatz 1; adult/concession €3/2; 1; adult/concession 808 214; Lessingplatz 05361 / pop 121,800 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) From Schlossplatz, the walk suggested in the walk suggested From Schlossplatz,

However, it’s the

% %

h sized global headquarters – and the same – and the same sized global headquarters Lang’s classic film emblem still adorns the company’s nation- All is not well in the ‘capital of Volkswagen’, Volkswagen’, the ‘capital of All is not well in it. but from the outside you wouldn’t realise come from Fritz In a scene that could have WOLFSBURG WOLFSBURG % Trains connect Wolfenbüttel with Braun- Trains connect Wolfenbüttel (€2.35, 10 minutes) Hauptbahnhof schweig’s twice an hour. The entire walk takes around one hour (2km), around one walk takes The entire excluding visits. Getting There & Away there the brochure continues to guide you past the brochure there historic courtyards, buildings and squares. one of the few tangible remnants of the exten- of tangible remnants the few one of in workers by Dutch built canal system sive 16th century. From in the late Wolfenbüttel strasse to Krambuden and north up Kleiner to Zimmerhof the brochure continues east along Löwen- the brochure facsimile is permanently displayed in the vault floor. on the first show sporadically, as taking it out inevitably causes However, an impressive slight damage. Welfen Evangelial, The original is only on der Löwe. by Heinrich that is), its collection of 800,000 volumes also 800,000 volumes that is), its collection of as the ‘world’s most includes what’s billed book’ (€17.50 million). This is the expensive ies for 17th-century books (if you’re a member (if you’re ies for 17th-century books 5pm Tue-Sun) ( inlaid wood, ivory walls, brocade curtains brocade curtains inlaid wood, ivory walls, and chairs. of the Braunschweig-Lüneburg dukes have have dukes the Braunschweig-Lüneburg of been preserved intricate in all their glory of starts at Wolfenbüttel’s pretty pretty startsWolfenbüttel’s at ( The free tourist office brochure office tourist brochure The free Wolfenbüttel historic Sights Sights markt is just to the north. The Schloss and to the north. The Schloss markt is just here. west of are August Bibliothek Herzog north to Kommisstrasse. This joins Korn- This joins to Kommisstrasse. north Stadt- point. bus transfer the main markt, 622 interest bibliophiles. Not only is this hushed bibliophiles. Not only is interest librar- the world’s best reference place one of LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

625 (know- Europcar 230 223). % (

Besserwissers City Taxi – not the department store, but a small but a small store, – not the department 815 70; Dieselstrasse 19). 0551 / pop 121,800 A free shuttle called City Mobil runs from A free the pedestrianised centre, Once you leave From Braunschweig, take the A2 east to the A2 east take From Braunschweig, There are taxi ranks at the Hauptbahnhof taxi ranks at the Hauptbahnhof are There Wolfsburgers do much of their drinking in of do much Wolfsburgers % Single bus tickets, valid for 90 minutes, cost valid for 90 minutes, Single bus tickets, €1.90 and a day pass costs €4.20. The major is at the northern point (ZOB) bus transfer Buses 206 and 214 go Porschestrasse. end of from here. to Fallersleben regularly with down Porschestrasse the Hauptbahnhof the Südkopf Centerstops at Kaufhof, (a shop- and the Kunstmuseum from 8am ping centre) to 5.30pm Monday to Friday and 10am to 4pm Saturday. easily by distances become difficult to cover foot. In every sense, was built for Wolfsburg the Planetarium The car park behind cars. from can be hired Vehicles is free. ( GÖTTINGEN % out of the mickey take sometimes Germans as a nation of themselves than this places know better it-alls), and few town. With the Georg- famous university the community a pillar of August Universität than 40 has sentsince 1734, Göttingen more into the world. And, Nobel Prize winners as well as all those award-winning doctors and scientists, the fairy-tale writing Brothers are all operated by Mövenpick, but have dif- have but by Mövenpick, all operated are from a cheap range cuisines. Options ferent bar and an upmar- to a sushi American diner for details Ask restaurant. Mediterranean ket main cash desk. at the park’s Kaufhof west of eateries a few pubs and bars, strip of is to wander The best thing Porschestrasse. along and see appeals. what Getting There & Away ICE train servicesFrequent go to Berlin (€39, the 30 minutes), (€19, one hour) and Hanover passing through (€11, 16 latter Braunschweig espe- cheaper, Regional trains are minutes). 24 minutes). (€3.50, cially to Braunschweig brings you right into the A39 north, which north to the B248 take town. Alternatively, the A39. Getting Around and at the northern end of Porschestrasse. Porschestrasse. and at the northern end of call Alternatively,

(evening With basic ) This stun- This is the only Autostadt restaurants Abendticket 053362-3140; Schlossplatz, 053362-3140; Schlossplatz, 2710; www.penthouse-hotel pnas % Summer breakfasts are are Summer breakfasts % ( ( If you’re visiting the Hoff- If you’re 891 689; Porschestrasse 1; mains 891 689; Porschestrasse 1; mains

607 000; www.ritzcarlton.com; Stadt-

SOUTH & EAST HANOVER OF •• Göttingen % 122 19; An der St Annenkirche; dishes ( % (

255 99; Kunstmuseum, Porschestrasse 53;

The menu of international cui- international The menu of from 6pm Mon-Sat) % ( closed Tue) stay open later than the park it- stay open later % (

h h 406 100) closed Mon) Walino Some of the eight Some of Ritz-Carlton Altes Brauhaus Aalto Bistro Penthouse HotelPenthouse % mains €16-17.50, per person 3-course meal for 2 €18.50; mains €16-17.50, per person 3-course meal for 2 €18.50; h on polenta, and fish breast chicken as corn-fed on truffle – while the pleasant risotto outlook it a perennial. town makes over ( meal. The restaurants towards your restaurant Jane apartments, are also suitable families for are apartments, Jane Discounts travellers. business or longer-stay stays. extended for given are brücke; rooms from €280; in the heart of ning ring-shaped building hotel. only five-star Autostadt is Wolfsburg’s in natural It has elegant rooms decorated and brown, a sauna, and camel, cream tones of Naturally, if restaurant. a Michelin-starred to Autostadt admission is free. you stay here Eating & Drinking Atelier Café €4.50-16; because sit in the lovely you can the best here, district inner-city courtyard in the historic Porsche- east of minutes five Hesslingen, of strasse. You can also head inside the half- meals a day are three house, where timbered served in a modern industrial-style bistro of the tourist office glass and steel. Ask concrete, for a map and directions. mains €7-15) Fallersleben; or simply dying man Museum in Fallersleben atmos- German beer-hall for some genuine a good house brew There’s come here. phere, including salads, sausages, and hearty fare potatoes and sauerkraut. €10.50-15; the Kulturhaus, designed by star Finn- part of that most visitors Alvar Aalto, ish architect to see.will get It serves pasta and seafood in a modern bistro environment. lonelyplanet.com the goods deliver Italianexcellent restaurant, ahead. Book too. travellers, for leisure 22; s €60-65, d €80-95, f €95) .de; Schachtweg Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation self, so within two hours of the park’s closing of self, so within two hours time, you can buy an is credited fee €6) and your admission ticket, sine always changes in the Kunstmuseum’s sine always changes such dishes – including restaurant loft-style kitchens, thesekitchens, although central, plain- quite Better in win- lonelyplanet.com A good-value A good-value ) p 292 662; www.cityhotel-journal Slightlycramped and ) (economic miracle) that miracle) that (economic ) While very much aimed at much While very % ( 133 37; www.jugendherberge.de/jh133 37; 865 60; www.alterwolf.de; Schlossstrasse 865 60; www.alterwolf.de; 2700; www.globalinn.de; Kleistrasse 46; 2700; www.globalinn.de; Kleistrasse % ( % % ( pn

( Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation

pni ). However the US never warmed to warmed to the US never ). However the German equivalent, as identified the German equivalent, as identified Wirtschaftswunder Cityhotel Journal Global Inn DJH hostel Hotel Wolf drinking strip, this place is friendly, homy drinking strip, this place town fans in automotive for and convenient for one night. s €45-65, d €90; place’s comfort- customer, this the corporate and facilities, including an able furnishings €16.50/19.50; and checked pine furniture fairly old, with friendly and is nevertheless linen, this hostel central. extremely f €75-85; 21; s/d from €35/50, car, this at- by travelling option for families half-timbered black-and-white tractive, house town just part of in a quiet, leafy is located behind Autostadt Rooms and the city castle. but some are particularly fashionable, aren’t huge. /wolfsburg; Lessingstrasse 60; dm under/over 26yr 26yr 60; dm under/over Lessingstrasse /wolfsburg; .de; Kaufhofpassage 2; s/d from €40/70) ter than summer, as it’s on the city’s main than summer, as it’s on ter Generation X, Generation Generation Golf Generation Hoffmann Hoffmann have a sense of humour, the Volkswagen Beetle is truly greater Beetle is truly greater a sense of humour, the Volkswagen have do (bug) was the result. However, Beetle production only really began began Beetle production only really However, (bug) was the result. and its Käfer ’ (above everything) everything) ’ (above 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 1-6pm Sat, 10am- 05362-526 23; adult/concession/family adult/concession/family 05362-526 23; über alles h % (

Fallersleben Schloss Fallersleben . In 1841, Fallersleben native August August native . In 1841, Fallersleben SOUTH & EAST & SOUTH OF HANOVER •• Wolfsburg Indeed, it’s a testament to the vehicle’s ability to run on the smell of an oily rag while rarely ability to run on the smell of an oily rag while rarely to the vehicle’s Indeed, it’s a testament

Did the company realise then what a hit it had on its hands? By the early 1960s, the chugging, chugging, then what a hit it had on its hands? By the early 1960s, the Did the company realise Small’, North particularly on by ads to ‘Think by the bug, and this Americans were Urged bitten Long after VW withdrew its bucket-of-bolts old Beetle (essentially the same beast despite the same beast despite old Beetle (essentially its bucket-of-bolts VW withdrew Long after eBay sold Pope In 2005, online auction site strong. But the secondhand market remains

breaking down that few would even begrudge its Nazi provenance. Yes, in 1934 Adolf Hitler in 1934 Adolf Hitler Yes, begrudge its Nazi provenance. would even breaking down that few German (people’s car) affordable for every Porsche to design a ‘Volkswagen’ asked Ferdinand household and, yes, the owners the world over fondly thought of as one of the family. fondly thought owners the world over BITTEN BY THE BUG THE BUG BITTEN BY proof that Germans Cast-iron all, the parts than than the sum of its parts. After little more in question initially comprised chucked (maximum speed: 100km/h) the back of a in 24-horsepower engine an air-cooled, assembly added somehow this rudimentary mechanical Yet comically half-egg-shaped chassis. up to a global icon – a symbol of Germany’s postwar spluttering sound of VW engines could be heard across 145 nations. could be heard across sound of VW engines spluttering the in Europe, Later on the hippie scene. became a permanent fixture vehicle durable, cut-price a phenomenal 1970s and 1980s would prove Golf model cars that superseded the Beetle in the (While Douglas Coupland talked about success. in the new Wolfsburg factory in 1946. under British occupation in the new Wolfsburg by best-selling author Florian Illies in 2000, is by best-selling improvements) from Western markets, the car remained a best-seller in the developing world. world. in the developing a best-seller markets, the car remained from Western improvements) assembly line in Mexico, the 21,529,464th of Only on 31 July 2003 did the last one roll off the its breed. Benedict XIII’s old Volkswagen Golf to a US casino for about €189,000. Newspapers since have Joseph Ratzinger; wants it reportedly Cardinal the former said Volkswagen has now contacted to build the next Pope-mobile. the usurper, pushing VW to introduce a sleek, trendy, state-of-the-artthe usurper, pushing VW to introduce a sleek, trendy, New Beetle in 1998.

Facilities like modem ports are standard, but standard, but ports are modem like Facilities single rooms far outnumber doubles. Most tourists who come to Wolfsburg tend tend to Wolfsburg Most tourists who come and the city’s accommo- to be day-trippers, towards business travellers. dation is geared Sleeping Sleeping alistic excesses. Take bus 206 or 214 to 214 to bus 206 or alistic excesses. Take Fallersleben. German fiefdoms, and how they were German fiefdoms, and how they were nation- Reich’s the Third after expunged his words ‘ simply a call for an end to petty inter- were national anthem (music courtesy of Joseph Joseph of courtesy national anthem (music how of discussion you’ll find Here Hayden). 6pm Sun) the wrote Hoffman (1798–1874) Heinrich German would become the lyrics to what €1.50/0.50/3; might want to visit this historic part of town town might part of to visit this historic want to see FALLERSLEBEN FALLERSLEBEN German who speak students history Keen 624 Museum LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

To

627

B3 C2 B3 B3 B4 B3 A3 B4 B3 B3 B3 B4 B3 A2 A3 A2 Eichen-Weg Düstere-

14 15 16 17 18 Rasenweg19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 To DJH

Hostel (1.1km) Münchhausenstr

Dahlmannstr Hainholzweg Friedrich-Jenner-Str

Herzberger Landstr Herzberger eg Bismarckturm (2km) D

Schillerwiese (200m); Wilamowitzweg

Hermann-Föge-Weg Göttinger Wald (750m);

Str Kleperweg Düstere-Eichen-W -Hilbert-Str tropical greenhousestropical (Göttinger Forest), Forest), (Göttinger are highly recom- are

Hanssenstr Am Goldgraben Am

Waldweg Gerber-Str

13 Calsowstr EATING DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT Cron & Lanz...... Gauss...... Mr Jones...... Tokyo...... Zak...... Apex...... Gro Mo...... Junges Theater...... Kaz...... (see 21) Pools...... (see 6) Schroeder...... Sonderbar...... Blue Note...... EinsB...... Electro Osho...... Savoy...... Tangente...... Bahnhof...... Gaudi...... (see 6) Voss Fahrräder/Parkhaus am 00 0.2 miles 400 m

Baurat- Planckstr

To University Hospital (800m) Bühlstr Göttinger Wald Göttinger Wald

, a large park that backs onto for- park , a large Schildweg Albani-

Humboldtallee Friedhof Wilhelm-Weber-Str Geismar Landstr Park Theaterplatz 5

Cheltenham Gaussstr B3 B3 A3 B3 A3 C2 B3

9am-noon & 1.30-2.45pm) 6 7 8 9 Friedrichstr 15

὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆

10 11 12 13 A 20-minute walk east of the Markt is the is the the Markt east of walk A 20-minute To enter Wendenstr Gardens Botanical Reinhäuser Landstr h

section devoted to mountain – the plants The the Alps etc. Andes, ( mended in winter. Schillerwiese Landstrasse Herzberger it, follow est. To reach righteast, then turn into Merkelstrasse. Landstrasse near continue along Herzberger it forms a hairpin bend, and turn into where a bitumen track From there, Borheckstrasse. and cyclists winds towards open to hikers away, where 45 minutes Hainholzhof-Kehr, a Bavarian-style beer garden in sum- there’s bus 1 or 7 to Zie- Another option is to take mer. and walk northwest back throughtenterrassen

Theaterstr Geismar-Str

Wilhelmsplatz Kurze-Geismar-Str Rote Str Rote Wochen-

Gosslerstr Burgstr 19

an markt

l

24 Mauerstr

21 22

Am Barfüsserstr Lange- 3 6 23

18 Ritterp 7 (1361) Jüdenstr 8

10 Kurze Str 26 University

25 Hospitalstr

Untere Karspüle Untere 2

Weg Weender Str 14 Lotzestr B

Markt Nikolaistr 395 753; Untere 395 753; Untere Zindelstr Sparkasse Börnerviertel

17 (Barfüsserstrasse Nikolausberger

Kasseler Hof...... A4 Haus Börner...... Junkernschänke...... St Jakobikirche...... Water Mills...... (see 4) Gebhards Hotel...... Hotel Central...... Hotel Stadt Hannover...... Perlhuhn......

SLEEPING Gotmar str

Stumpfe- Str Düstere Bürgerstr % Landstr biel

Mühlenstr

A2 B3 B2 C2

str

Kreuzbergring

St Jakobikirche 1 2 3 4 5 Bunsen Am Leinekanal Am Prinzenstr

Johannisstr

Paulinerstr 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Weender Papendiek

Groner Str Eiswiese (1km) 16

To Badeparadies

Haus Börner Maschmühlenweg 27 28 Leinekanal

h

St Johanniskirche Gartenstr

4

Lilienthalstr

-Str 20 Str

11 Angerstr

Neustadt

e-Masch 9

(Botanical Gardens;

To Autobahn Unter SOUTH & EAST HANOVER OF •• Göttingen Berliner North (1.5km) Goetheallee Geiststr

AC Bürgerstr Wiesenstr 1 were Germany’s first, and there’s a Germany’s and there’s first, were

Groner-Tor-Str

Bismarckhäuschen...... A4 Main Post Office...... Tourist-Information Göttingen... Waschsalon...... Altes Rathaus...... (see 2) Deutsches Theater...... Gänseliesel Statue...... (see 2) INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hauptbahnhof

Busbahnhof Weg dorfer Bahnhofsplatz 29 Marienstr s

Brauweg Among Göttingen’s six Gothic churches, six Gothic churches, Among Göttingen’s Ro ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ; built in 1536 it has the busy ; built in 1536

GÖTTINGEN 2 3 1 4 Bahnhofsallee To Leine-Hotel Boarding House (750m) Godehardstr 12 the most interesting is the the most interesting on Weender red, Strasse. With eye-catching it striped columns, angular and grey white stained- contemporary some also features glass windows. & GARDENS PARKS the small the old ramparts, In the shadow of Botanische Gärten Karspüle admission free; 2; Sat & Sun) lonelyplanet.com an- the road is Just down Renaissance façade. number, other ornate 12) alley behind it. Kurze Strasse it. Kurze alley behind and Pauliner- exploring. also worth strasse are 485 % is the Deutsches 7am- statue and h for a quick lonelyplanet.com 10am-1pm Tue, 3-5pm 3-5pm 10am-1pm Tue, .

(Barfüsserstrasse 5)

h (Bismarck Cottages; Gänseliesel 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am- h (

. The walk ends near the Junkernschänke 496 90; Theaterplatz 11) (Ritterplanfrom €3; 4; per wash Bismarckhäuschen % Altes Rathaus ( , where the town fathers reputedly ban- reputedly the town fathers , where water mills While you’re here, however, pop into the here, While you’re onto historic scenes. BUILDINGS half-timbered Göttingen’s Looking at some of buildings is a pleasant way to while away some time. thanks to its colourful 16th-century prettiest, you hear about her being the ‘most kissed girl in the world’, the bronze statue doesn’t from all cheeks particularly shiny evenhave to nothing here that human contact. There’s the of with the gleaming right breast compare Italy. Juliet in Verona, statue of nearby 4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, closed Sun Nov-Mar) Built in 1270, the structure look at the interior. once housed guild, and the the merchants’ Hall added to its Great decorations later rich the arms of the coats of of include frescoes cities and local bigwigs, grafted Hanseatic the entrance near Cheltenham Park. This takes This takes Park. the entrance near Cheltenham you past 844; Im Hainberg; admission free; Thu & Sat) in Otto for rowdy behaviour ished 18-year-old apocryphal, 1833. This incident is probably that the historical record of but it’s a matter found guilty Iron Chancellor was later future two illegal duel. Nearby are an witnessing of old Theater AROUND THE MARKT The city’s symbol, the Waschsalon Waschsalon Sights & Activities must-sees,Rather any urgent than having attractions that you’ll a mosaic is of Göttingen walking around. Having by most appreciate had at least, the town long since 953 existed and walls and moats, network of a protective ramparts is a walk around the 18th-century not brick construc- These are recommended. hummocks left from tions, but rather earthy less than an hour to circum- It takes that time. the city, the best starting point being navigate 10pm Mon-Sat) Laundry. 10pm Mon-Sat) fountain remains a handy meeting point for fountain remains will soon head this locals and most visitors than arrival, if for no other reason way after office. and visit the tourist to see the Markt little gooseClose girl (with up, the demure all After geese) stopper. isn’t exactly a show 390; % 9.30am-6pm 499 800; www h % ( (University hospital; (Heinrich von Stephanstrasse 1-5) Near the (Groner Strasse 15) (one/two days €5/9) Discount card offering free SOUTH & EAST & SOUTH HANOVER OF Göttingen •• Vitamin D was discovered here and alu- here D was discovered Vitamin

Göttingen is so damn pointy-headed that is so damn pointy-headed that Göttingen office slogan tourist its clever-clever even into takes a bit of explaining to translate English. A play on words, its straightfor- ward meaning is ‘the town that forges Wissenschaft (as one knowledge’. However, word, with one f) also means science – one of Göttingen’s strengths. Meanwhile, famous minium first developed. worked at the university names to have include physicists Niels Bohr, Max Planck and Otto Hahn, as well as astronomist Carl David Hilbert Friedrich Gauss. and Hermann Minkowski also laid down the mathemati- theory of cal groundwork for Einstein’s relativity. ‘STADT, DIE WISSEN SCHAFFT’ DIE WISSEN SCHAFFT’ ‘STADT, Despite such a formidably pointy-headed a formidably such Despite

public transport discounts on tours and museums. and Universitätsklinikum Post office Tourist-Information Göttingen Post office Hauptbahnhof. .goettingen.de; Altes Rathaus, Markt 9; Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, closed Sun Nov-Mar) Gö-Card Information Information Leine River. The centre has a large pedestri- a large has The centre Leine River. a Markt, is the which anised mall, the hub of the Hauptbahnhof. walk east of 10-minute by the Leinekanal (Leine the Canal), an arm of The circular city centre is surrounded by the centre The circular city 18th-century wall and is divided an ruins of 25,000 students major in having a good time. in having 25,000 students major Orientation For most of the year, however, GänselieselFor most of while the university’s unmolested, remains world, thanks to the custom among graduating world, thanks to the custom her on the cheek. doctoral students to peck pheric and typical student haunt. Much is Much typical student haunt. pheric and Gänseliesel the iconic statue of (the made of little goose being the most kissed girl) in the reputation, Göttingen is actually an atmos- is actually Göttingen reputation, Grimm (as German linguistic teachers) and and (as GermanGrimm teachers) linguistic (as a von Bismarck Otto chancellor Prussian at a timeless also be expected student) could alumni evening. 626 Robert-Koch-Strasse 40) Medical services. LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY 495 530 629 This % %

( ( Patrons Patrons Kaz If you’re If you’re This hip, Dress up, Dress Waiters zip Waiters Friday nights A refined, aca- A refined, Junges Theater is your best bet for Pony 517 7976; Weender Strasse 38) draws a large crowd to Am draws a large 431 43; Kurze Strasse 9) 556 47; Jüdenstrasse 29) 556 47; Jüdenstrasse 531 4500; Goetheallee 8) % 488 9232; Goetheallee 13a) (

% % ( 531 5353; Berliner Strasse 5) (

820 7799; Nikolaistrasse 1b) 447 71; Burgstrasse 46) % % (

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Combined with Zak, Savoy Schroeder Mr Jones Apex Sonderbar EinsB Electro Osho Gro Mo , is also an enduringly popular place to after a late-night watering hole, head to Son- watering a late-night after is open until 5am daily. derbar, which 62) drink. Entertainment German-language information about individual gigs and club nights. leading and through easily at Göttingen’s most glamorous club. Playing mainstream a couple over and house music, it’s spread below the lounge levels, with a chilled-out of podium). main floor (with bar and go-go guitar music, Brit- on new-wave concentrate a turn pop etc, while on Saturday things take younger for the electronic in this laid-back, lounge. a pipe-smoking Turkish club above an arcade next to a small club, at the end of outside a cool, relaxed crowd hangs out in hangs out crowd a cool, relaxed outside the courtyard. touts itselfstudenty place as a ‘bar-café-living it some patrons do seemroom’, and to treat drink- as their second home, spending hours a TV There’s useding and chatting. screen some DJ evenings, football, and for watching tables in summer. pavement cocktails to and fro with milkshake-sized slightly at this relaxed, in Day-Glo colours The €4 happy hour lasts American-style bar. what the menu says)all evening (despite and everything, includ- to taste keen are punters ing the ‘surprise’ Jones and Mrs Mr Jones drinks. coffee or even bigger mugs of nurse huge beer at this funky Goetheallee of steins hang- the place, all over strewn they’re out. As and local spot to pick up flyers it’s a great magazines. Wochenmarkt. The theatre’s bar, The theatre’s Wochenmarkt. demic and generally older crowd (40s to 50s) demic and generally wines or even Sion of comes to sup a range in this dark-wood bistro, attached to Kölsch gallery. and art venue a cabaret for only sleek and trendy beings are waved waved beings are for only sleek and trendy 0150; Hospitalstrasse 6)

Natür- sushi, Renowned nigiri Findet Nemo Findet and such as souffléed such The windows of this of The windows maki dinner, closed Sun) . Tofu and vegetarian op- and vegetarian . Tofu In the simple exposed-pine h . SOUTH & EAST HANOVER OF •• Göttingen 560 22; Weender Strasse 25; coffee/cakeWeender Strasse 560 22; gyoza Stained glass and other Iberian- 531 3001; Börnerviertel, Barfüsserstrasse 12- 566 16; Oberer Karspüle566 16; Oberer 22, enter on Theater- 999 5735; Gotmarstrasse 16; sushi €2-9, mains 999 5735; Gotmarstrasse 16; sushi % haute cuisine, haute (

(Legally Blond) or a 487 770; Am Wochenmarkt 22; mains €5-9.90) 487 770; Am Wochenmarkt 22; kimchi 820 7472; Börnerviertel, Barfüsserstrasse 12-13) % % % closed Mon) ( ( (

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Gauss Zak Gaudi Tokyo (Finding Nemo)! lich Blond lich changing) North Seafillet of flounder on lemon sauce There’s and asparagus risotto. with endives a noticeable concentration on seasonal ingredients. Drinking Pools funky of contribution to the spate Göttingen’s furniture) (with recycled ‘second-hand bars’ popular in Germany, Pools fea- currently plants and chairs ’70s arc lamps, potted tures from the rubbish, including four rescued upstairs; ripped-out bus seats. The toilets are popular meeting spot, thanks in part to popular meeting spot, thanks in part to the Junges opposite its excellent location a straight to keep But do try face Theater. to po- from bagels when ordering. Dishes, tatoes names, so to meat, all carry film-title a of to ask for the likes you’ll have €8-14; chef the lone sushi here, and bamboo interior orders, customers’ works hard to turn out including the usual and tempura 13; mains €10-22) its this restaurant colour give style splashes of The menu, however, be better would name. modern in- or described as Mediterranean as beef with dishes such roulades ternational, and grated ratatouillewith spinach, chutney lamb in garlic saucepolenta, with and rack of and gnocchi. spinach lonelyplanet.com Eating Lanz Cron & Viennese-style you ornate café will tempt choco- of artful arrangements in with their inside, you may have Once and cakes. lates the your conscience to ignore with to wrestle sandwiches, toasted healthier light snacks of and casseroles.quiches even Korean and there’s available, tions are beef and strasse; mains €16-24; from €2/2.50, snacks €2.50-6.50) from €2/2.50, snacks TV chef Jacqueline Amirfallah upholds this TV Jacqueline chef as Göttingen’s reputation cellar restaurant’s (and best gourmet experience with exquisite This ivy-covered pub-café-bar is a relaxed relaxed is a pub-café-bar This ivy-covered )

pn 505 10; www % ( lonelyplanet.com

547 960; www.hotel This tiny B&B of- This tiny B&B ) % (

n 496 80; www.romantikhotels 571 57; www.hotel-central.com; 571 57; www.hotel-central.com; % ) Through the Art Nouveau Through the Art Nouveau ( 551 10; www.perlhuhn.de; Am Am 551 10; www.perlhuhn.de;

% (

A 10-minute walk from the walk from the A 10-minute % ) ( Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation

pni pni The quaintly elegant rooms here, some some The quaintly elegant rooms here, ) Gebhards Hotel Hotel Stadt Hannover Leine-Hotel House Boarding Hotel Central Perlhuhn .com/goettingen; Goetheallee 22-23; s €92-125, d €135-180; .com/goettingen; Goetheallee 22-23; s €92-125, d €135-180; n stadthannover.de; Goetheallee 21; s €72-90, d €102-120, tr Goetheallee 21; s €72-90, d €102-120, tr stadthannover.de; €135-155; entrance hall glass door and quaint etched you’ll find modern, comfortable and here, a choice slightly There’s masculine rooms. bathtub or shower, while the smoking of sensibly (but unusually) separated rooms are door. from the nonsmoking rooms by a fire the of the fourth generation The owners, same the place, speak excel- family to run lent English. .leinehotel-goe.de;€85- Groner Landstrasse 55; s €55-70; d 110; with visiting this place is popular centre, in every room academics for the kitchenettes looking, It’s generic and its business centre. with a good buffet but a well-run operation helpful information and lots of breakfast for guests. Jüdenstrasse 12; s €72-100, d €95-120, ste €150; cloth tartanbrown-and-blue in room 245 bathroom) still has a 1970s orange (which to the seagrass-style completely wallpaper of rooms have where modern room 135. Even an appeal- walls, this place presents painted styles and peri- mix of ing and interesting bricks and Miró prints set ods. Exposed red and in the breakfast the tone at reception room. renovations are turning a chintzy budget budget a chintzy turning are renovations appealing, a little more something into hotel Ikea in a simple rooms decorated with newer bathrooms. en suite have All rooms style. not far from away in a quiet corner Tucked has its own restaurant. town, the hotel Gold-graben 22; s/d €55/80; One combines travel. of from the golden age with an African bed- an aircraft living room room, the other a captain’s living room (with table propeller as an elegant base) a ship’s bedroom. and a pirate’s with Art Deco wall panels and lights, will with Art Deco wall panels and lights, will Facilities traditional tastes. appeal to more the include a whirlpool, sauna and one of city’s most opulent restaurants. fers two unforgettable apartments themed themed apartments two unforgettable fers Unusual wallpaper has been used to enli- rooms, from the this hotel’s several of ven

, . Karzer . This ) city walking Göttingen Göttingen Ongoing Ongoing , because , because (adult/concession (adult/concession

pn Badeparadies Eiswiese Badeparadies (adult/concession €6.50/4)

11.30am Fri-Sun Apr-Oct, English 720 812; www.kasselerhof.de; Bismarckturm , held in late May or early May , held in late h 576 22; www.jugendherberge.de/jh % (

% ( 11am-6pm weekends & holidays Apr-Sep)

In a pleasant spot on the outskirts In a pleasant spot on the outskirts ) (€2.50) outlines two other walks (€2.50) outlines two other walks h London-Bus tours SOUTH & EAST & SOUTH HANOVER OF Göttingen ••

Händel Festival Händel Festival (per person €5.50;

507 090; Windausweg 6; adult/concession from €12/8; 507 090; Windausweg 6; adult/concession 10am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10.30pm Sat & Sun)

Kasseler Hof DJH hostel Also ask the tourist office about its oc-

% Rosdorfer Weg 26; s €52-59, d €75-89; There’s a laundry, café, games room, and grill a laundry, café, games room, and grill There’s down the as well as several restaurants area, bus 6 or 9 to take here, To get same street. Jugendherberge. of town, this large, slightly older hostel is is slightly older hostel this large, town, of self-contained.popular with cyclists and very /goettingen; Habichtsweg 2; dm under/over 26yr €16.90/19.90; pni est site is 15km west of town. is 15km west of est site Sleeping Sleeping near- about camping; the the tourist office Ask June, will interest those In- on music. keen June, will interest at the tourist office. tickets about quire The Festivals Festivals casional around town show which famous scholars famous scholars which around town show and when. where lived Komplett to do on your own. Plaques on buildings charcoal and chalk to etch profiles that are that are profiles to etch and chalk charcoal still well preserved. The brochure versity building. Historically, students were students were building. Historically, versity used Many when they misbehaved. sent here tours 11am 1st & 3rd Sat of month Apr-Oct)tours 11am 1st & 3rd Sat of month to visit the get that’s the only way you (former student cells) at Aula, the main uni- It’s worth going on a tourist office office It’s worth going on a tourist tour Tours Tours are massages (book in advance), a solarium (book in advance), massages are and a sauna for adults. massaging underwater jets, geysers and cur- massaging jets, geysers underwater slides, there water While kids enjoy the rents. 28°C to 34°C, with the usual assortment of usual assortment of 28°C to 34°C, with the ( h BATHS BATHS knotted throughIf all the walking has parks unwind in your muscles, €1.70/0.70; has spectacularThis stone tower views over the Leine Valley. the forest into town. From the terminus a terminus From the into town. the forest to the path leads 628

huge swimming/spa complex has pools from swimming/spa complex huge using a red Routemaster to tour the city. Routemaster using a red LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

) If 631 p ) Over- ) Rooms p 609 60; www % pn (

) 349 10; www.hotel 202 7910; Am Kamp From the squat From the squat Candlelight and p % % ( (

963 860; www.intourhotel.de; % 358 350; www.dom-hotel-osnabrueck ( 222 44; Krahnstrasse 4; snacks €4-4.50)

% (

% (

260 363; Osterberger Reihe €0.80, 12; bagels from With a wide range of sandwich fill- sandwich of With a wide range % (

Steigenberger Hotel Remarque Café Läer Pferde haben keine Flügel Dom Hotel Intour Hotel Romantik Hotel Walhalla ceilings and rustic features. Even rooms in the rooms in the Even ceilings and rustic features. the theme. modern half continue more you up to taste- A glass lift takes convenience. in Mediterranean-style ful rooms decorated sienna and blues, with portraits and memen- around Remarque dotted Maria Erich tos of for local colour. Eating Bagels dishes €3-10) ings you’d expect to find in a New York deli, coupled with the usual German breakfasts settle in for often and light meals, customers your You can also get here. hours a couple of in minutes. there to go, and be out of bagel The lend the place a surprisingly modern feel. place to sit while mezzanine floor is a great and cake. coffee having a romantic rough-hewnwalls create stone No Wings’ (don’t Have at ‘Horses atmosphere couples ask), so it’s hardly surprising so many enough – providing no school groups are are groups no school enough – providing yourself. Take a dorm to in – to get booked or 468 to Kinderhospital.bus 62, 643 Maschstrasse s €30-50, d €67-80; 10; the you wouldn’t expect building’s exterior, as modern and comfortable to be rooms here owner an excellent deal. If the it’s as they are; dog – her lovely to give is on duty, remember – a pat. half terrier half German Shepherd, 5; s €45-60, d €70-100; .de; Kleine Domsfreiheit in Mediter- comfortable and cheery are here but they don’t exude ranean yellowy-orange, left to the friendly That’s atmosphere. bags of owner, who always seems to help and ready even when busy. chat, d €100-110; Bierstrasse 24; s €80-85, -walhalla.de; in a traditional half-timbered has building higgledy-piggledy rooms with low-beamed 81-83; tapas €2-8, platter for 2 €18) .osnabrueck.steigenberger.de, in German; Natruper-Tor-Wall in German; Natruper-Tor-Wall .osnabrueck.steigenberger.de, 1; s/d from €110/120, weekends €90/110; looking the old town from a small hill just hotel from it, this modern four-star across quiet and of the unusual combination offers you’re looking for historic atmosphere, this looking for historic atmosphere, you’re has it aplenty. The half that’s housedhotel The stone walls inside this historic building . Wal- ) The (1586) (1586) (Peace (Peace 10am-1pm i Bocksturm Erich Maria taking up h survived uses photos 600 9606; www % Friedenssaal ( (Treasure Cham- (Treasure Café Läer Haus Willmann

(Erich Maria Remarque Peace loom above the square, the square, loom above 542 84; www.jugendherberge.de This modern, if somewhat This modern, if somewhat WEST OF HANOVER •• Osnabrück % ( )

half-timbered houses Schatzkammer (Kaiser goblet). (Kaiser n 323 2109; Markt 6; admission free; hostel Marienkirche

%

house (1533), with ( right ), with a portal flanked by cheeky by cheeky ), with a portal flanked right (

The four richly ornamented cross gables cross ornamented The four richly the tourist office about the Ask DJH Various Various BackpackersPenthouse The oldest tower of the former city wall con- The oldest tower of implements dating from Osna- tains torture brück’s medieval trials, but at the time witch so it it was due to be restored, research of might not be open. furniture looks like it’s been cobbled together it’s been together cobbled looks like furniture the owner (because it has from friends of hours has limited been!) and the reception (so call ahead), yet you can’t beat the warmth from a well-travelled the welcome here, of the backpacker proprietor who understands for the train station, located Handily scene. big establishment has a kitchen, this 4th-floor for great a leafy terrace room and guest lounge summer barbecues. /jh/osnabrueck; Ilburger Strasse 183a; dm under/over 26yr €15.40/18.10; a sch- is something of nondescript hostel, so you might be lucky lep from the centre, Hall). On the left as you enter the Rathausenter On the left as you Hall). a Also have the negotiators. portraits of are look in the especially at the 13th-century ber) opposite, Kaiserpokal of the burning down dur- after painstakingly rebuilt small the ing WWII. Opposite, Remarque Friedenszentrum Centre; & 3-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) life the writer’s and documents to chronicle (1898–1970) and work. WWII. At Bierstrasse 24 is the baroque halla At Krahnstrassea beau- 4 you’ll find cherubs. tiful the ground floor (see the below). The best of is the Renaissancebunch at No 7, with its carved circular motifs and Adam and Eve. of small relief Sleeping the tourist office about camping, about Ask town. 5km northeast of .penthousebp.com; Möserstrasse 19; dm €14-15; lonelyplanet.com on 25 proclaimed was Westphalia of Peace War. Years’ Thirty the 1648, ending October con- peace negotiations were The preceding 60km south, about Münster, partly in ducted the Rathaus’and partly in Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation

8am- 9am-5pm h 323 2202; h % ( steps that the that the steps lonelyplanet.com (admission free; (admission free; 323 2207, 323 2237; Lotter Strasse Osnabrück 11am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat

%

( h (Theodor-Heuss-Platz 6-9; Rathaus 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) h is an older, slightly more neglected sister neglected is an older, slightly more When first opened, the building conveyed When first However, the collection has since been re- MARKT & AROUND & AROUND MARKT It was on the Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) 7pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) & Sun) Museum Ber- to Libeskind’s famous Jewish Felix painter Jewish lin. The Osnabrück-born original; his a great wasn’t (1904–44) Nussbaum Rous- Gogh and Henri Van work has shades of seau. However, 1988 building was Libeskind’s its best. it at designed to show deliberately circumstances and life Nussbaum’s changing moods, for example, using a long, darkening despairingthe period of corridor to convey was finally the painter wartime exile before and sent to Auschwitz. arrested you into the adjacent Kulturge- hung to drive Museum (don’t bother going in) schichtliche All a powerful experience. and now isn’t such insight into an interesting the same, it remains artist, as well as a German-Jewish of the life Libeskind’s architecture. When you come to the Domhof, continue left When you come to the Domhof, along Krahnstrasse to the tourist office. Information in the Hauptbahnhof. an ATM There’s Main post office Marketing & Tourismus Sights FELIX-NUSSBAUM-HAUS concrete series of interconnected an like Shaped theshards, with slit windows and sloping floors, Felix-Nussbaum-Haus 2; adult/concession €5/3; in 1648. The construction in question is the question is in The construction in 1648. world by leading Felix-Nussbaum-Haus, Daniel Libeskind. architect Orientation is divided egg-shapedOsnabrück’s city centre Altstadtinto the northern the southern and Neustadt, draw- with the east–west Neumarkt The Hauptbahn- the middle. ing a line across the reach To edge. is on the town’s eastern hof about 15 minutes, from the station takes centre going straightalong Möserstrasse, ahead turn- into Wittekind- building ing left at the Kaufhof strasse and then right Grosser into Strasse. www.osnabrueck-tourism.de, in German; Bierstrasse 22/23; . The long- Right to next Voss Fahrräder/ All Quiet on the on the All Quiet 599 94; Am Bahnhof) (canteen), the Blue Note the Blue Note (canteen), % (

463 76; Goetheallee 8a) 463 76; Goetheallee and truly eclipsed Osnabrück’s 469 07; Wilhelmsplatz 3) 469 07; Wilhelmsplatz Mensa % ( % (

340 34. WEST OF HANOVER OF WEST Osnabrück ••

% 0541 / pop 163,000 But this historic heartland is now offset by There are taxi ranks at the Hauptbahnhof taxi ranks at the Hauptbahnhof are There Tangente

Bikes can be hired from hired can be Bikes Göttingen is on the A7 running north– Göttingen Blue Note

claim to be where the Thirty Years’ War ended the Thirty Years’ claim to be where Western Front, Western of the old town, past ornate half-timbered the old town, past ornate of houses. building that has overtaken a contemporary Remarque, Maria Erich son in native interest the WWI classic author of and that’s something you most understand at and that’s something you most understand night, wandering the winding lamp-lit streets ‘Zum Glück komm’ ich aus Osnabrück’, locals aus Osnabrück’, Glück komm’ ich ‘Zum good luck to come from this city; their boast of OSNABRÜCK OSNABRÜCK % WEST OF HANOVER WEST OF HANOVER Parkhaus am Bahnhof Single bus tickets cost €1.70, while 24-hour cost €1.70, while Single bus tickets €4. are tickets Rathaus. the Altes and behind To call one, ring (B27) runs southwest to the Weser River and (B27) runs southwest to the Weser River Mountains. northeast to the Harz Getting Around along Kasseler Landstrasse, along Kasseler of an extension Road Groner Landstrasse. The Fairy-Tale south. The closest entrance is 3km southwest (€63, two hours 20 minutes). Direct regional regional Direct 20 minutes). (€63, two hours services (€11.70, one hour) and go to Kassel but you’ll have Weimar (€23.10, two hours), to Goslar (€13.40, 1¼ trains to get to change hours). 1¾ hours) and Munich (€87, four hours). (€87, four hours). and Munich 1¾ hours) ICE services also go to Berlin-Hauptbahnhof There are frequent direct ICE services direct frequent north are There and Hamburg (€28, 30 minutes) to Hanover or south to Frankfurt (€51, (€54, two hours) including salsa, and even tropical Persian. Getting There & Away the university the university nights, bands and theme dance live has regular older with it and its famous ‘Zartbitter’older with it rock metal). heavy quite are parties (which standing punters at Tangente just keep getting getting keep just at Tangente standing punters mobile-phone shop, focuses shop, mobile-phone bass on drum ’n’ and techno. 630 LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

Die 633 Landes- Covering Covering Augusteum (Natural History Museum;

832 27; www.tafelfreuden , north of the Markt. , north of 9am-5pm Tue & Wed, to 3pm & Wed, to 3pm 9am-5pm Tue % (

h 871 35; www.jugendherberge.de/jh 9am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri,Thu, to 8pm 9am-5pm Tue, . Showcased here are works by are . Showcased here . The neoclassical building you building you . The neoclassical % h (

Large and rambling, this hostel and rambling, this hostel Large Wallstrasse ) (1839), once a city guardhouse (1839), once but Really the only interesting hotel in in hotel Really the only interesting ) pn Schlosspark 220 7300; Elisabethstrasse 1; adult/concession incl Landes- 1; adult/concession incl 220 7300; Elisabethstrasse 924 4300; www.naturundmensch.de; Damm 38-44; Damm 38-44; 924 4300; www.naturundmensch.de; The museum’s collection of 20th-century The museum’s collection of However, is tight. skip all this if time The DJH hostel Hotel Tafelfreuden For eating options simply cruise along ped- Behind sprawling English- is the Schloss the % 1930s and ’40s. Damm runs southeast from 1930s and ’40s. Damm runs southeast from and this museum Schlossplatz is not far from bus 289, take Alternatively, the Augusteum. 270, 314, 315 or 316 from the train station to the Staatsarchiv stop. Sleeping & Eating rooms The tourist office can help with private information on camping, north or provide town. of /oldenburg; Alexanderstrasse 65; dm under/over 26yr €15/ 17.70; -hotel.de; Alexanderstrasse 23; s €60-70, d €85-95, apt €115; pn town, this has seven themed distinctively the sin- rooms, plus an apartment. Some of tiny, if are as England and Japan gles, such like boudoirs cleverly but larger organised, Wasser’ the ‘Orient’, ‘Afrika’ and ‘Unter an There’s treasures. real are (underwater) on the ground restaurant organic upmarket floor. estrianised style is from the Schloss see the square across Neue Wache a bank. now part of art has been farmed out to the ( museum €3/1.50; 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) August Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, Heckel, Erich and others. Macke is the best museum in Oldenburg museum Natur und Mensch % adult/concession €4/2; Fri, Sat & Sun). 10am-8pm Thu, 10am-5pm land- Lower Saxony’s various the ecology of (or wall) scapes, its highlight chunk is a huge containing niches peat , with three of period originally bodies from the Roman found preserved in the moors in surrounding is rather old and very dimly lit. However, the is rather old and very staff is helpful and it atones for its shortcom- comfy bathrooms with a few ings by having by foot north of tubs. It’s about 20 minutes bus 302 or 303 to or take the Hauptbahnhof, Von-Finckh-Strasse.

220 % 9am-5pm Schloss , which , which h 8am-6pm h 01805-938 333, 361 6130; % ( Landesmuseum für Kunst und Landesmuseum für Kunst und WEST OF HANOVER •• Oldenburg

(Museum of Art History; & Cultural (Bahnhofsplatz 10; 0441 / pop 162,400 0441 / 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Today it’s principally a business destina- Today it’s principally a Inside is the The pale-yellow Renaissance-baroque The pale-yellow Renaissance-baroque the Altstadt shop- southern end of (1607) at the the just south of ping district (on Schlossplatz, was once home to the counts and dukes Markt) the same family governed of Part Oldenburg. of Denmark briefly in the 15th century. Kulturgeschichte 7300; adult/concession incl Augusteum €3/1.50; Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) Tue, to the 1950s. On the 1st floor, you’ll Ages Idyllenzimmer with 44 find the remarkable Wilhelm paintings by court artist Heinrich Goethe. a friend of Tischbein, down identity. Most of its medieval buildings Most of down identity. in 1676, while fire in a huge destroyed were at various stages refashioned later were others style architectural the prevailing according to Ludwig Friedrich Count Peter the time. of in a neoclassical the town began redecorating still survives which style in 1785, evidence of and other its promenade in the Schlosspark, nearby buildings. from a day-trip tion, but you might make a mummy fan, or stop over if you’re Bremen on the way to the East Frisian Islands. Orientation is bounded pedestrianised core Oldenburg’s to the north, Theaterwall by Heiligengeistwall to the south. Turn to the west and Schlosswall right you exit from the ‘Stadtmitte’ side after Sud), which (Bahnhof the Hauptbahnhof of you along Moslestrasse. Turn left into takes you to Achtern- takes which Osterstrasse, and con- Turn left strasse in the city centre. The tourist tinue until you come to the Markt. this; block northwest of one is in a street office look for the signs. Information Main post office Oldenburg Tourismus Sights lonelyplanet.com OLDENBURG % shuffled between and German Danish Being the Weser- capitalof the relaxed rule has left somewhat difficult-to-pin- with a region Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) www.oldenburg-tourist.de; Kleine Kirchenstrasse 14; h Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation chronicles the area’s history from the Middle history from the area’s chronicles 05468- % (

320 11. ) accompanies % lonelyplanet.com 277 81 or % Apocalypse Now Apocalypse , although by the time you leave , although by the time you leave 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & The surrounding park and battlefield now your own car, you must Unless you have However, only in 1987 was the exact site of of However, only in 1987 was the exact site This museum,a 40m rectangular rising in Call a taxi on train station (€2.90, 50 minutes). Sometimestrain station (€2.90, 50 minutes). at Herringhausen you will need to change an will make but the bus driver Leckermühle, bus times when announcement. Check return At least if you come in summer, you arrive. you and beer garden where a restaurant there’s can while away any waiting time. point using film and sound to evoke the feelingpoint using film and sound to evoke song ‘The End’ the Doors Elsewhere, battle. of (famous from the identity of a short video on the mysterious victorious German commander, and national by was discovered hero, Arminius. The site are so there British archaeologist, an amateur English annotations. ‘seeing’, called quirky pavilions, three features a camera ‘hearing’ and ‘questioning’. Using ear trumpet and video technol- obscura, huge unusual you an they give ogy respectively, on the battlefield. perspective as bus servicesplan your visit carefully, are mainbus X275 from Osnabrück’s Take sparse. lious Germanic tribes had won a major victorylious Germanic tribes had won a major in the somewhere their Roman masters over three in AD 9 – defeating region Osnabrück military commander Publius Quinctilius of legions. Varus’ uncov- Forest’ Teutoberg the so-called ‘Battle of In 2000, the battlefield was near Kalkriese. ered park to display theopened as an archaeological Germans’ dirt ramparts and explain how they a funky new steel-clad later, did it. Two years museum architec- was built by famous Swiss Guyer. Gigon and Mike tural duo Annette tower, showcases coins, battle masks, bells, the it tells and other finds. And spearheads engaging manner, at one story in an incredibly Getting Around Getting Around €3.10 tickets and day cost €1.80 tickets Single ticket). (so buy a day & MUSEUM VARUSSCHLACHT KALKRIESE PARK You needn’t be a history buff to come to the Kalkriese & Park MuseumVarusschlacht 920 40; www.kalkriese-varusschlacht.de; Bramsche-Kalkriese; h Sun Nov-Mar) It an interest. probably acquired you’ll have rebel- was long known that a ragtag of bunch

239 14; . The Münster- %

( (www.airberlin

‘Onion’ does 245 35; Hasestrasse . % (

Grüne Gans Air Berlin The restaurant here serves here The restaurant 273 60; An der Katherinenkirche 1) (FMO; www.flughafen.fmo.de) (FMO; 260 363; Osterberger Reihe260 363; Osterberger 12; mains

236 73; Heger Strasse 34) % % ( (

% (

Settle niche yourself a private into WEST OF HANOVER •• Varusschlacht Museum & Park Kalkriese Museum Park & HANOVER OF WEST Varusschlacht ••

is among those with services to Osnabrück is well connected by road via is well connected Osnabrück Osnabrück has a wonderful range of pubs of range has a wonderful Osnabrück Hausbrauerei Rampendahl

RE (€20.20, 1½ hours) and IC (€24, 1¼ RE (€20.20, 1½ hours) Zwiebel Arabesque

the A1 (Bremen to Dortmund) and the B51, the A1 (Bremen B65 and B68. Various services (€39, one go to Hamburg Various 10 (€35, two hours Cologne hour 50 minutes), and Dortmund (€25, 55 minutes). minutes) hours) trains to Hanover leave twice an hour. twice an hour. leave trains to Hanover hours) between 6am and 8pm, with reduced servicesbetween 6am and 8pm, with reduced on weekends. utes), which leaves the airport roughly the airport hourly leaves which utes), Osnabrück airport and the centre, airport is 30km southwest of X150 (€8.50, 40 min- by Schnellbus reached The low-cost carrier .com) horse, old metal-plate ads for coffee and even horse, old metal-plate ads for coffee this place photo, that makes a Marx Brothers stand out. Getting There & Away sell onion cake, but it’s the quirky decoration sell onion cake, in the room out the back, with a rocking

Right near Arabesque is this popular student beer garden and hang-out, with a covered-in table football. Drinking Grüner Jäger (most open in the eveningonly) that also serve food. These include the simple, inexpensive of traditional food haven 35; lunch €6, mains €10-20) out breaking one set from noon, before dish the other traditional German 6pm. food after in- on the premises, brewed are Special beers Rampendahlcluding the potent Spezial. Osnabrück hit. Osnabrück painting. It’s all possible at this relaxed friendly friendly at this relaxed painting. It’s all possible an no wonder it’s become such restaurant; drink an Afri-Kola and admire the desert wall drink an Afri-Kola and admire €5.50-14.50) your place on the take a hookah. Or and smoke and seatinglow Arabic and tuck into kebabs at a table, park yourself Alternatively, falafel. bacon. to put other customers at ease the food and customers to put other in tasty, the dates especially is extremely flock to this tapasflock the evenings. bar during friends enoughgroups of bigger are Still, there 632 Grosse Gildewart 15; mains €3.50-7.50) LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY 635 (chieftains) Doctor Zhiv- 10am-6pm Mon- 710 10; tourist- h % Häuptlinge ( and are rather partial and are to a – of . west the onion-shaped dome is the first thing thing the onion-shaped dome is the first 04461 / pop 13,000 With its Russian-looking castle, Jever is castle, Jever With its Russian-looking [email protected]; Alter Markt 18; [email protected]; 9am-4pm Fri, 9am-1pm Sat Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, Fri Nov-Mar) hands on Jever for a time in the 18th century, hands on Jever their home-grown locals always preferred a virgin, died unmarried and queen. Having England’s is the German equivalent of Maria I. worldly) Elizabeth (in truth more to the en route worth a brief visit, probably East Frisian Islands. Orientation within a attractions are Jever’s Most of in the other each of metres hundred few the Altstadt section the around eastern of map boards at the small are There Schloss. train station. Follow the signs to the centre the along Schlossstrasse to the beginning of pedestrianised Continue along the streets. across yet more until you come cobbled streets signposts. Information Tourist Information Jever Sights & Activities SCHLOSS a prop from the film Looking like ago, 14th-century Jever’s you about that strikes JEVER % for its Pilsener beer, the the capital of Famous also has a secondary motif. Friesland region out from peers ‘Fräulein Maria’ The face of was She alike. windows attractions and shop the so-called the last of and al- Middle Ages, to rule the town in the though got her Russia’s Catherine the Great ) The p 314 44; Grosse Strasse %

( 976 100; www.alt-emder 972 70; fax 972 733; Hinter den Hidden by trees from Hidden by trees ) % 237 40; www.heerenshotel.de; 237 40; www.heerenshotel.de; % (

( p 927 30; Neutorstrasse 5; s/d from % Oltmanns (

WEST OF HANOVER •• Jever % ) Friendly, family-run hotel and ( p In the 16th century, Jeverland, the region around Jever, seceded from Ostfriesland and remained from Ostfriesland and remained seceded Jever, around the region In the 16th century, Jeverland, EAST, WEST, FRIESLAND’S BEST BEST WEST, FRIESLAND’S EAST, Fries- ‘different’. for being Like in northwest Bavarians, the people a reputation have Germany – Plattdütsch their own language called, have as they’re landers, drinking imports). a geographical tea 25% of Germany’s (reputedly Although merely cup of tea from the stretching states entity, a league of seven was once a political today, Friesland area northern Danish coast. Roughly speaking, Netherlands to the part the eastern Netherlands of the ), northwest Frisia) and the (Western was Westfriesland Ostfriesland (Eastern Germany was was Nordfriesland (Northern around the Danish border area Frisia). In modern and subsequently Russia. into the hands of the Dukes of Oldenburg as it fell separate today where Friesland, leading to the odd situation was rechristened Jeverland times, however, Frisia), around Emden, actually lies Ostfriesland (Eastern Emden is small enough to be explored on Emden is small enough to be explored Other recommendations: Hotel am Boltentor Heerens Hotel foot but also has a bus system (€1 per trip). foot but also has a bus system The best transport method is the bicycle; to Getting There & Around Getting There & Around by rail to Oldenburg Emden is connected (€19.10 to (€13.40, one hour) and Bremen remote- its relative Despite €23, 1¾ hours). via the town is easily and quickly reached ness, connects with the A28 from the A31, which The B70/B210 runs and Bremen. Oldenburg north from Emden to other towns in Friesland and to the coast. one contact hire 53-57; per day €8). generously sized rooms here are slightly older, are sized rooms here generously comes highly for its servicebut the hotel rated and restaurant. Alt Emder Bürgerhaus Goldener Adler €65/85) Central and modern, with an excellent local restaurant. -buergerhaus-emden.de; Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse 33; s/d from €50/70; in traditional building in the centre. restaurant dorms in stand-alone bungalows, this place a hostel. a holiday camp than like more feels other groups, its and Popular with schools swimming, plenty of canal-side location offers bus canoeing and cycling opportunities. Take Herrentor. 3003 to Realschule/Am Rahmen 10; s/d €65/85; from the main road nearby and just a minute has hotel the Kunsthalle, this homy red-brick possibly the best location in town, plus comfy and well-equipped rooms. Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse 67; s €50-80, d €90-105; lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation

10am- h Suurhusen 890 70; www includes includes 322 25; www ) With some % % ( 04921-974 97; Am ( lonelyplanet.com leave from the from the leave EMS % pn (

ult of the decreasing decreasing the ult of 872 057; www.landesmuseum % Ostfriesisches Landesmuseum leave several be- times daily leave Bunkermuseum closed Dec & Jan; (adult/child €10/5) 237 97; www.jugendherberge.de/jh/emden;

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation h now has an impressive new en- now has an impressive , and the tourist office has plenty % has canoes for hire, or ask at the has canoes for hire, (

cycling 10am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct)10am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun Some 6km north of Emden, along the B70, Some 6km north of The revamped The revamped cruises run by Harbour Canal tours perfect flatlands around Emden are The is by water. good way to travel Another The labyrinth of WWII civilian air-raid WWII civilian air-raid The labyrinth of of maps. of Wasserturm) Sleeping & Eating DJH hostel An der Kesselschleuse 5, off Thorner Strasse; dm under/over 26yr €16.50/19.50; tween March and October from the Delfttreppe and October from the Delfttreppe tween March €6.50/3). The in the harbour (adult/child steps company also runs services to the East Frisian North Frisian ) and p640 Borkum (seeIsland of ). p702 (see Helgoland Island of quay at the Kunsthalle between April and October on weekdays at 11am and 3pm, and on Sunday at noon and 3pm. for Kanuverlieh am Wasserturm of old Dutch masters and one of the biggest the biggest and one of masters old Dutch of armouries in Germany. at the shelters .bunkermuseum.de; Holzsägerstrasse; adult/child €2/1; h here, from thosetestimonies sheltered who recent insight into part of a moving offering history. stands what claims to be the world’s most That’s nothing to do with church. crooked of the church the administration of Cur- (1262), but a comment on its tilting tower. out- true, it allegedly leaning 2.43m off rently does even the famous tower in Pisa by 4.7cm. is the res The overhang light-flooded rooms show off a range of big, of offa range rooms show light-flooded Max works by some are bold canvases. There Jawlensky, Alex Beckmann, Heckel, Erich Nolde Emil Franz Marc, Kokoschka, Oskar the art- although most of Pechstein, and Max times a year, the Three obscure. more ists are museum week for a closes while ex- its doors signs from Follow the changed. hibitions are the tourist office. (Regional History Museum; -emden.de; Rathaus, adult/child €6/3; Neutorstrasse; 6pm Tue-Sun) you’ll find a gallery trance, through which soil. levels in the peat-rich groundwater tourist office. .ag-ems.de, in German)

), Stern 974 00; 9am-6pm Newsweek % h ( or Time 10am-8pm Tue, to 5pm Wed-Fri, 10am-8pm Tue, h , thanks to local boy Henri , thanks to local boy Henri 975 050; Hinter dem Rahmen 13; adult/ dialect, even if they don’t always % ( WEST OF HANOVER OF WEST & Around Emden ••

04921 / pop 51,700 Single bus tickets (valid for one hour) for (valid Single bus tickets

For starters, Emden has an unusually good Emden has For starters, Oldenburg is at the crossroads of the the of is at the crossroads Oldenburg

Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, 11am-1pm Sun May-Sep, 9am- 1pm & 3-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat Oct-Apr) Just north of the central Ratsdelft harbour, near the car park and taxi stand. www.emden-touristik.de; Am Stadtgarten; century art, its white-and-exposed-timber, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) to collection available he made his private Focusing on 20th- the town when he retired. (a glossy newsweekly à la Kunsthalle concession €4.50/2.50;

Frisian Islands, although there are lots of lots of are Frisian Islands, although there surprisingly and a few here pursuits relaxing good museums. Sights & Activities Sights & Activities to the EastMost people visit Emden en route

Tourist-Information Emden Pavilion Information Information lead to Grosse Strasse and the small medieval harbour called Ratsdelft. 10-minute walk west of the city centre. As you As the city centre. walk west of 10-minute will the road heading right,exit, take which Orientation a about Emden’s train and bus stations are lish, German and – guess what? – Dutch. Moin’, and they’re generally proud of the local proud of generally Moin’, and they’re Plattdütsch Eng- a combination of speak it. It sounds like People greet you with a ‘Moin’, or ‘Moin you with a ‘Moin’, or ‘Moin greet People

You’re almost in Holland here, and it shows – and it shows almost in Holland here, You’re and windmills dikes from the flat landscape, lackadaisical manner around Emden to the across canal locals pedal their bikes in which Lego-like houses. and past red-brick bridges EMDEN & AROUND EMDEN & AROUND % the entire city cost €1.75; short trips are only are trips city cost €1.75; short the entire €1.30, and day passes €4.80. Buy your tickets from the driver. A29 to/from Wilhelmshaven and the A28 the A28 and Wilhelmshaven A29 to/from border). (Bremen–Dutch

Bremen (€5.80, 30 minutes) and Osnabrück and Osnabrück 30 minutes) (€5.80, Bremen there From Oldenburg, hours). (€17.20, 1¼ to Emden and beyond. trains north are Getting There & Around Getting There & Around hour to once an at least trains are There 634 Nannen. The founder of the magazine The founder of Nannen. LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY

637 .

(DB; www.bahn for information on de- Luftverkehr Friesland Harle Deutsche Bahn 01805-194 49; www.weser-ems Eiltraut and Ulrich Kunth Eiltraut and Ulrich % ( For more details, see For more Getting

, or in the Netherlands) is far too dirty 04464-948 10; www.inselflieger.de, in German) 04464-948 10; www.inselflieger.de, Light aircraft also fly to every island except In most cases (apart from Borkum, Norder- . English-speaking guides can be contacted . English-speaking guides can be contacted Wadlopen % Spiekeroog. Contact Spiekeroog. ( Getting Around so Norderney allow cars, Only Borkum and means you’ll need to leave heading elsewhere museums €3 typically a small amount, etc. It’s it’s sim- staying overnight and if you’re a day, hotel bill. Remind your your hotel ply added to they forget. should your pass you to give Getting There & Away to tide times, rather according sail Most ferries so it’s best to call schedule, than on a regular operator or the ferry .de/nordseeinseln, in German) gen- are times on a certain day. Tickets parture for those staying returns either as erally offered valid for up to two on the island (sometimes same-day returns. or cheaper months) from needney and Juist) you will to change the point to reach the train to a bus at some Some- leaves. the ferry harbour from where shuttle buses by the times those operated are services company, or scheduled ferry from Weser-Ems Bus in German).-bus.de, There & Away for each island. & Away for each There ( Kur- Wattwandern 04941-8260; www.wattfuehrer-rieken.de, in German) % as such trekking through the National Park is called, can be danger- as such trekkingPark through the Wadden Sea National (

EAST •• Resort FRISIAN ISLANDS Tax 04933-1027; www.wattwanderung-kunth.de, in German) As a kindAs of ‘horizontal alpinism’, Tourist offices in Jever and Emden can provide details of state-approved guides, including guides, including details of state-approved and Emden can provide Tourist offices in Jever Wattwandern, Tours cost about €20, including the ferry ride back. Necessary gear includes shortsTours cost about €20, including the ferry or short (resort tax), entitling you to entry onto (resort % at [email protected]. In going barefoot). trousers and possibly socks or trainers (although many guides recommend necessary. gumboots are winter, ous. You need to know which fordable channels are left by the receding sea, and must be able to sea, and must be able to left by the receding You need to know which fordable channels are ous. the Therefore, can blow in within minutes. in summer, fog that, even cope with the enveloping – your destination reached crossing should only be undertaken safely you’ve Once with a guide. to take you walked to an island – you get to wait for the ferry and can now boast that you’ve your trail. back while watching the sea rise swiftly over and strenuous to really be compared to walking on water. But the fresh sea air and the workout sea air and the workout But the fresh to walking be compared on water. to really and strenuous holy. pretty your body does make you feel given you’ve Martin Rieken ( WALKING TO THE ISLANDS WALKING TO THE ISLANDS on Germany’s North the tide recedes Sea coast, it exposes the mudflats connecting the When make their way lovers hikersmainland to the East Frisian Islands, and that’s when and nature ‘isles’. It’s a minimum two-hour journey, wallowing in mud or to Baltrum and its sister barefoot wading knee-deep outdoor activities but it’s one of the most popular in this flat, in seawater, mountainless region. Lined up in an archipelago off the coast of off the coast of Lined up in an archipelago to The main season runs from mid-May Lower Saxony like diamonds in a tiara, the Lower Saxony like Spie- (east to west): Wangerooge, islands are Beware, however, that the open- September. tourist offices in coastal towns of ing hours Call and without notice. frequently change ahead if possible. of the eye – recite the following mnemonic the following the eye – recite of device: Seemann ‘Welcher liegt bei Nanni im Bett?’saucily rather as translates (which seaman‘Which Nanni?’). is lying in bed with Langeoog, Baltrum,keroog, Norderney, Juist sandyand Borkum. Their long open beaches, spaces and sea them both a nature air make for those retreat paradise and a perfect lovers’ their the world. Like of escaping the stresses Amrum and Föhr North Frisian cousins Sylt, Wadden the part of islands are ), the p696 (see Sea Park. National (Wattenmeer) Resort Tax a charges the EastEach Frisian Islands of taxe small discounts for and offering the beach lonelyplanet.com EAST ISLANDS FRISIAN the seven the sequence of Trying to remember Germans – with a wink East Frisian Islands,

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) p joliffe p Al- White- pensions lonelyplanet.com Jugendherberge 5580; www.hotel-stoeber 949 640; www.jever-hotel 3010; Schlachtstrasse 1; mains 3010; Schlachtstrasse 1; mains % (

9370; www.schuetzenhof-jever 5436; Bahnhofstrasse 44) % ( %

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% % ( (

Jever’s new Jever’s ) 909 202; www.jugendherberge.de/jh909 202; yams and plantains. % Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation (

700 709; Kattrepel 1a; mains €9-17.50) With a historic dining room and out- pni % jambo, (

For something a little more upmarket, upmarket, For something a little more ) Jever is small enough to explore on foot. is small enough to explore Jever Im Schützenhof Haus der Getreuen Bier Akademie Hotel Stöber Pension Am Elisabethufer Getting There & Around Getting There & Around (€15.70, from Bremen The train trip to Jever in at least one change, involves two hours) Sande, and sometimes one in Oldenburg, the exit to the B210 from By road, take too. Wilhelmshaven). the A29 (direction: washed walls and tasteful ethnic decoration ethnic decoration washed walls and tasteful understated this African restaurant give also on are and Italian fare Tex-mex style. the menu, for those unfamiliar with the rice, €10-20) a rather on the corner of though it’s located inside the shopping centre, unattractive wood-lined Bier Akademie turns out to be in the yourself an excellent place to educate other Pilsener of and dozens Jever ways of beers. Frisian brown-brick building. There are nice nice are building. There Frisian brown-brick window. garden views from its breakfast .de, in German; Hohnholzstrasse 10; s €35-40, d €60-70; the centre, south of In a leafy neighbourhood building has traditionally this whitewashed German rustic rooms. for fortableIt’s favoured modern rooms. its excellent local celebrations because of Zitronengras. restaurant, Eating & Drinking Balu Sleeping Sleeping DJH hostel /jever; Dr-Fritz-Blume-Weg 4; dm under/over 26yr €17.70/ 20.70; green a series with of a little village, is like around bungalows grouped and red-brick as clean, modern Dorms are the reception. and comfortableexpect from as you would opened in 2006. buildings only covers duvet and floral Frilly lampshades in Jever’s par for the course are in this steep-roofed and also what you’ll find -pension.de; Elisabethufer 9a; s €35-40, d €60-70; 9a; s €35-40, d €60-70; -pension.de; Elisabethufer this hotel, just south of the centre, has com- the centre, just south of this hotel, side seating, Haus der Getreuen is famous is famous der Getreuen side seating, Haus dishes, especially fish. for regional .de, in German; Schützenhofstrasse 47; s €45-50, d €75-80; .de, in German; 47; s €45-50, d €75-80; Schützenhofstrasse p 713 713 Kul- 10am- statue statue . The . The % (

h , a mildly , a mildly 10am-1pm & 10am-1pm & h 137 11; www.jever.de; 137 11; www.jever.de; 933 80; Am Kirchplatz 13; is the magnificent is the magnificent tours hourly 9.30am-4.30pm . This is owned by . This is owned by % ( % allows visitors a peek allows visitors

11am, noon, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm & 11am, noon, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm & ( h Blaudruckerei shop h

( . Her image also joins that of also joins that of image Her . , with a carved, coffered, oak , with a carved, coffered, Stadtkirche , where you’ll find the lavish me- you’ll find the lavish , where 969 350; adult/concession €3/2; adult/concession 969 350; % Glockenspiel pièce de résistance ( WEST OF HANOVER OF WEST Jever •• opposite the tourist office on the façade on the façade the tourist office opposite

Friesisches Brauhaus , 8am-6pm) Alternatively, an interesting Frisian craft Frisian craft an interesting Alternatively, Near the tourist office, you’ll seeNear the tourist office, a The

ago revived the long-lost art and tradition of the long-lost art and tradition of ago revived a printing and dying process Blaudruckerei, batik. resemble vaguely whose results 88; www.blaudruckerei.de; Kattrepel 3; 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) is on show at the is on show 6pm) von Oldenburg. the Hof of town’s way; the main nave is opposite the tomb, the tomb, is opposite way; the main nave glass. is now behind which eight fires. The church itself succumbed to itself succumbed to The church eight fires. in a rather modern the flames and was rebuilt morial tomb of her father, Edo von Wiemken Wiemken her father, Edo von morial tomb of (1468–1511). The tomb is another opus by and miraculously survived Cornelis Floris of Fräulein Maria in the her father and other historic figures lar is in the h Many of Jever’s sights are in some way con- sights are Jever’s of Many The most spectacu- to Fräulein Maria. nected OTHER ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS OTHER ties, as well as a small museum. Reservations essential. are through the production and bottling facili- the the 18; tours €6.50; Elisabethufer Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat) A brewery that has been producing dry that has been dry producing A brewery Pilsener worth a visit, and since 1848 is FRIESISCHES BRAUHAUS ZU JEVER ZU JEVER FRIESISCHES BRAUHAUS ris to create this 80-sq-metre Renaissance Renaissance this 80-sq-metre to create ris masterpiece. ceiling of great intricacy. Fräulein Maria Maria intricacy. Fräulein great ceiling of the Antwerp sculptor Cornelis Flo- retained audience hall turhistorische Museum des Jeverlandes grandfather, chieftain Edo Wiemken the the Edo Wiemken chieftain grandfather, Today the palace houses the Elder. town’s 18th-century Russian rulers added added Russian rulers town’s 18th-century Maria’s built by Fräulein it to a building Schloss Schloss Jul & Aug) 10am-6pm Sun year-round, 6pm Mon-Sat cultural-history museum with ob- diverting craft of and the daily life jects chronicling including a vast porcelain the Frieslanders, collection. 636 behind the scenes. The two-hour tours travel travel behind the scenes. The two-hour tours former teacher Georg Stark, who 20 years Stark, Georg who 20 years former teacher LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY is is 639 04931- % (

04932-918 50, room % 9am-6pm Tue-Sun) ( (www.nationalpark-haus can provide more more can provide 9.30am-9.30pm, women only h

Reederei Frisia h Sep, 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 04932-891 162, 891 141; Am Kurplatz 04932-891 162, 891 141; Am Kurplatz offers roughly hourly de- offers – and other historic buildings and other historic buildings tourist office % ( , opened in 2006 in the old Art , opened in 2006 in the Nationalpark-Haus Kurtheater Bade:haus 9am-6pm mid-May The jewel in the crown is indisputablyThe jewel in the crown the Norderney’s also an outdoor pool at Weststrand. There’s trains (€6.90 to €9.70) from Emden are There Now ‘Lüttje Welt’ – little world, as the world, as the Welt’ – little Now ‘Lüttje reservations 01805-667 331; www.nordeney.de; Bülowallee 5; h 9am-12.30pm Sat Oct–mid-May) details or book rooms. The on the harbour. directly Getting There & Away the to catch to Norderney you have To get in Norddeich. ferry in German; 9870; www.reederei-frisia.de, adult/child return €15/7.50, bikes €5.50) from 6am to 6pm daily (to 8pm in partures and 50 minutes summer). The journey takes details. can provide any DB office landing stage. Mole, the ferry to Norddeich JUIST is 17km long and a snake, like , shaped Juist are ways to travel The only only 500m wide. own or on your carriage horse-drawn by bike, Juist special is what What makes two feet. no high-rises, or shopping is not here: cars the alone with often you’re malls. Instead, seagulls, the wild seascreeching howl- and the brambles and elderberry ing winds. Forest, the island. sections of large bushes blanket and personalities such as Chancellor Otto von Otto von as Chancellor such and personalities and composerBismarck Schumann Robert century. in the 19th visited fog makes Nordeney for the way call islanders it seem is only place on earth – it’s the like It has a new its pre-eminence. trying to regain and hotel, an upcoming five-star designer spa, its lighthouse of refurbishments 21st-century All these wonderful Art add to its and church. Deco time to visit. this a great to make new 3; adult/child from €6/3.50; from 2pm Wed) This sleek seawaterNouveau stone- baths. thalas- biggest complex is now the and-glass in Germany, with warm and sotherapy centre roof-topcold swimming pools, a sauna with where areas relaxation the island, views over and drink Frisian you can lie back on loungers – all split between the more and much tea, (fun) zones. ‘Spa’ and ‘Spass’ -nordeney.de; admission free; -nordeney.de; admission free;

house No 177 ) leave from ) leave 9am-noon & 2-7pm 9am-noon & 2-7pm h 04939-800; www.baltrum.de; 01805-914 003 or email % 04971-928 90 or email 90 or email 04971-928 04939-9130; www.baltrum-linie ( guided tours (see boxed (see guided tours boxed % % % (

EAST FRISIAN ISLANDS •• Baltrum 8.30am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am- 8.30am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Thu, Wattwanderungen . h

Kurverwaltung can provide information. For room can provide . As the island closest to the mainland, . As 04939-469; admission free; 04939-469; admission free; There’s little to do except go on walks or little to do except There’s To get to Nessmersiel change from the from the change to Nessmersiel To get To get to Bensersiel,To get Esens the train to take The % to the beach, or visit the exhibition on the or visit the to the beach, environment in National Park Reederei Baltrum .de, in German) train in Norden to a bus (€6.50/10 per same- day/open return). NORDERNEY the East Frisian Islands’, Norderney of ‘Queen North Seawas Germany’s Founded first resort. Prussia, it Wilhelm II of in 1797 by Friedrich the most famous bathing desti- became one of Crown Prince Georg nations in Europe, after made it his summer residence, Hanover V of gage is €2.50 per piece, bikes €15 return. €15 return. per piece, bikes is €2.50 gage For details, call [email protected]. bus. to a shuttle or Norden, and change BALTRUM East inhabited smallest Frisian Island, The Baltrum is just 1km wide and 5km long and with dunes and salty marshland. peppered don’t bother with It’s so tiny that villagers do with house num- names but make street been allocated have Numbers instead. bers basis; houseon a chronological Nos 1 to 4 no is now No 5. exist so the oldest longer ( Mon-Fri) house No 130; Getting There & Away (and Ferries Depar- 30 minutes. take Ferries Nessmersiel. means day depend on the tides, which tures €12.50 are Tickets always possible. trips aren’t one way or €16/22 for a same-day/open re- is way and luggage €4 each cost turn. Bikes from available details are More usually free. lonelyplanet.com Getting There & Away between shuttles BensersielThe ferry and Langeoog trip nine times daily. The up to re- hour and costs €21 about one takes Lug- for a same-dayturn, or €18.50 return. Baltrum is the most popular destination for Wattwanderungen text, p637 ). p637 text, reservations, call noon Fri) [email protected]. – 8am- sea res- h is clearly 04972-6930; 04972-6930; 9am-12.30pm 9am-12.30pm % h Melkhörndüne (

beach with more than than with more lonelyplanet.com

04972-693 211; adult/ is in the Rathaus, 04972-693 201; zimmern 04976-919 3101; www 04976-919 04976-919 3133, or % 04976-919 3225; admission admission 04976-919 3225; (

3-5pm Tue & Thu, 10am-noon 3-5pm Tue % % ( ( %

% 10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Thu, 10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm

(

h h h tourist office , although the original of Lale famous for of Anderson, is in the ‘Haus Kogge’, where there’s there’s where Kogge’, is in the ‘Haus grave tourist office 04974-214 or can be dealt with on the 1st floor of can be dealt with on the 1st floor of (admission free; (admission free;

Schiffahrtsmuseum Mussel Museum 9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)9am-12.30pm & room reservations % also on view is perhaps more interesting. interesting. more also on view is perhaps h The island boasts the highest elevation in Langeoog’s The but discour- is not only car-free Spiekeroog To get to the ferry, catch a train to Esens catch to the ferry, To get 12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, 8am-12.30pm Fri year-round, 12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, 3-5pm Fri, 10am-noon Sat Jul & Aug) [email protected]; Sat & Sun) landing the island’s ‘train station’ or ferry stage. total of two following a horrendous storm in two following a horrendous total of sufficiently 1721. But by 1830 it had recovered town. to become a resort East Friesland – the 20m-high and the the WWII song to record singer being the first Nautical tradition is showcased ‘Lili Marleen’. in the concession €1.50/0.75; 10am-noon Fri & Sat) so same-day returns aren’t always possible. always possible. aren’t so same-day returns way or €17 for same- €10 each Prices are over luggage Each piece of tickets. day return costs an extra €2 return. limit the two-bag Call there and change (from Emden, 15 minutes), for a bus. Not all buses from Esens to Neu- with the Jever run daily, so check harlingersiel tourist office beforehand. LANGEOOG Lan- up the story of make and pirates Floods to a whosegeoog, population was reduced .spiekeroog.de, in German; 25; Noorderpad & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat Apr-Oct, Mon- 9am-12.30pm Fri Nov-Mar) also a €1; all varieties. of 3000 shells too. bicycles ages Getting There & Away point in Neuhar- departure From the ferry to reach 40 to 55 minutes it takes lingersiel times depend on the tides, Ferry Spiekeroog. [email protected]; 28; Hauptstrasse In sunshine, the 14km-long attraction. the biggest Sat) cue ship email [email protected] for details and email [email protected] tickets. or Norden 22 minutes) (coming from Jever, while

Die Die 04469-9480; 9am-3.30pm 9am-3.30pm 2pm, 3pm & 4pm 04469-990; www % h ( in the Rosen- 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Nationalparkhaus (The Discovery (The Discovery h % which handles handles which

, take to the sea-, take , h 04976-910 120; Inselmuseum, in Harlesiel 04464-949 411, in ). %

( % (

lighthouse Verkehrsverein DB (spa administration;

, a horse-drawn train that runs Pferdebahn and the EAST Wangerooge •• ISLANDS FRISIAN

04469-8397; admission free; 04469-8397; admission free; If you’re feeling active you can climb the active feeling If you’re

To reach Harlesiel, take bus 211 from Jever bus 211 from Jever take Harlesiel, To reach There are two information centres: the the two information centres: are There

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plenty of baths for swimming. for baths plenty of Tue-Sun Apr-Sep)Tue-Sun also are back to 1885. There on rails and dates people, although you can distract yourself people, although can distract yourself you with the €3/2; Nooderloog 1; adult/child return sq km is taken up by thesesq km is taken sandy hills. It’s the that draws this rustic island tranquillity of Rolling dunes dominate the landscape of min- the landscape of dunes dominate Rolling its 17.4 two-thirds of about uscule Spiekeroog; SPIEKEROOG SPIEKEROOG train/bus station (30 minutes). is operated by is operated €2.50 each, and a bike €10 each way. The ferry way. The ferry €10 each and a bike €2.50 each,

lesiel two to five times daily (1½ hours), de- daily (1½ hours), times lesiel two to five ticket pending on the tides. An open return costs €26.90 (two-month time limit), and a is €25. This includes ticket same-day return on the island to the village the tram shuttle an extra are luggage (4km). Large pieces of Getting There & Away Getting There & Away from Har- leaves to Wangerooge The ferry Tue-Fri, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Sat & Sun) ( historic 39m-tall in a long pool or indulge adventure water a learn- of sports activities. For more list of ing experience, head to the room reservations as well. Nov-Mar) [email protected]; Hauptbahnhof) .wangerooge.de; Strandpromenade 3; .wangerooge.de; Strandpromenade Kurverwaltung and Wilhelmshaven, it’s easy to feel like a a like it’s easy to feel and Wilhelmshaven, willing castaway. watching huge tanker ships lumber in and ships lumber in and tanker huge watching Hamburg at Bremerhaven, the ports out of Mon-Fri, Apr-Oct, to noon Sat & Sun 9am-noon Mon-Fri of Slowness). That’s what the marketing folks the marketing Slowness). That’s what of cleverly said and it’s about this island, have sand Crunching betweentrue. your toes and A famous German novel is called German novel A famous der Langsamkeit Entdeckung your vehicle in a car park near the ferry pier the ferry park near in a car your vehicle hours). €3.50 per 12 (about WANGEROOGE 638 Wangerooge 04464-947 411 haus; opening hours are reduced in winter, in winter, reduced are haus; opening hours so call ahead. LOWER SAXONY SAXONY LOWER LOWER SAXONY in German) in German) reservations ( reservations mersee the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake as unusualgardenfences. In1830,however, stacked upsidebyside,or occasionally see, frontier timesare thewhalebonesthatyou’ll ing andwhalinghistory.Reminders of those seafar-flood inthe12thcentury–hasatough largereven before itwasrippedapartbya The largest FrisianIslands–once of theEast BORKUM Mole. tothelandingdockinNorddeich straight for details. cost €9.50.YoucanalsoaskanyDBoffice 1½ hours); children andbikes are half-price to Juist(adultday/normalreturn €17.50/27.50, Frisia Reederei &Away There Getting 18; Friesenstrasse .de, inGerman; & 2.30-5.30pmMon-Sat) % also the There’sislands, andalsoabirdsanctuary. 640 © LonelyPlanetPublications 10am-noon Sat) Juist’s One peculiarityof Juististheidyllic Trains fromEmden(€6.90to€9.70)travel 04935-1488; adult/concession€2/1.25; EAST FRISIAN ISLANDS •• Borkum FRISIANISLANDS••Borkum EAST –theonlyfreshwater lake onallthe operates theferries fromNorddeich Juister Küstenmuseum Juister tourist office tourist has a separate numberforroom has aseparate

% ( % 04935-809 222). 04931-9870; www.reederei-frisia.de, onLoogster Pad. ( % h 04935-8090; www.juist 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri,

(Coastal Museum; (Coastal Museum; h 9am-12.30pm Ham- Park. National its exhibitionontheWaddenSea fireest isthemuseum ship the footof Alsoof theoldlighthouse. inter- faster (€24.80/38.30,onehour). catamarans day/open return €16/29.50,twohours) and concession €3/1.50; €10.50. return (dependingonsize),whileabike costs Transporting acarcostsfrom€70to€150 .de, inGerman) is Emden. The embarkationpointforferries toBorkum &Away There Getting room reservations. 10am-noon&2-4pmSatSun) Fri, ( arrivals/departures. There’s a timedtocoincidewithferryon weekdays, Goethestrasse1). [email protected]; museum stages inthelife of Borkum,visitthe wife aholidayhomehere. Dorisbought Schröder andhis former ChancellorGerhard hoping foranextraspike ininterest since % to earn a living. Recently, the island has been to earnaliving.Recently,theislandhasbeen locals realised thattourismwasasafer way Borkum hasa To learnabout thewhalingeraandother 04922-933 117; Hauptbahnhof; 04922-933 117;Hauptbahnhof;

(Local History Museum; Museum; (Local History hasbothcarferries (adultsame- AG-Ems h Kurverwaltung

( 10am-noon &3-5pmTue-Sun) % 01805-024 367;www.ag-ems , which alsohandles % Borkumriff, h lonelyplanet.com 04922-4860; adult/

9am-5.30pm Mon- ( % tourist office tourist It’s open 04922-9330; Heimat- with at

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