MIX UP A KEY MEN’S WEAR CROSSING THE TREND, #COZYBOYZ, MIXES SWEATPANTS, ATLANTIC HOODIES AND OTHER U.K. E-TAILER BOOHOO.COM LANDS ACTIVE PIECES WITH IN THE U.S. PAGE 6 TAILORING AND MORE. PAGE MW1

HEADING TO TRANSPARENCY H&M Report Reveals Global Factory List

By SHARON EDELSON

AT LEAST ONE fast-fashion retailer is heading to- ward total transparency about its sourcing. As the fashion industry continues to suffer a black eye over tragic factory fi res in Bangladesh and un- safe working conditions in nations such as Cambodia, THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY H&M is stepping up its efforts in corporate sustain- ability by publishing a full list of its suppliers. WWD H&M’s 11th annual sustainability report, which is being released today, reveals the Swedish fast- fashion giant’s modus operandi in countries such as Bangladesh and Cambodia, where it continues to push for improved wages and conditions for factory workers. The biggest revelation is the publication of H&M’s supplier factory list. Retailers have long held suppli- er factory information close to the vest, viewing it as proprietary and not to be shared with their competi- tors. The list made public in H&M’s 2012 Conscious Actions Sustainability Report, represents 95 percent of the retailer’s supplier factories. According to Helena Helmersson, H&M’s global head of sustainability, the retailer is one of the few Active fashion companies to take this step. “We’ve seen a few sports brands doing this,” she said. “We are the fi rst [fashion retailer]. Obviously, we haven’t done this be- fore because we were worried about the competition” trying to use our factories. Ingredients H&M works with a total of 785 suppliers, accord- ing to the report, 340 in the Far East, 242 in South With this season’s blaze of bright colors and Asia and 203 in Europe, the Middle East and Africa. A total of 1,798 factories manufacture goods for H&M. cool shapes, working out just became About 760 are in the Far East, 499 in South Asia and little bit more enticing. Here, 539 in EMEA. In addition, H&M has 148 strategic Body Language’s polyester partners, which are manufacturers committed to the retailer’s sustainability program and have the best re- and spandex top and cord. These companies manufacture at 440 strategic cotton and Lycra leggings. factories and make more than 50 percent of H&M’s Reebok sneakers. For merchandise, the report said. H&M hopes other retailers will be encouraged to more, see pages 4 and 5. follow its lead. “Transparency as a concept is really out KELLNER SEE PAGE 8 AMANDA Gucci’s Growth Gear ASSISTANT:

By LUISA ZARGANI FASHION

ROME — Sitting under the embellished wooden beams of the 16th-century Roman palazzo Alberini COSMETICS; that houses the Gucci headquarters, the brand’s pres-

MAC ident and chief executive officer Patrizio di Marco is

FOR brimming with optimism.

LTD. “Gucci’s potential has yet to be realized; there is still a long way to go,” said di Marco. Four years into the job, after a comprehensive upgrade of the label, refocusing on heritage and arti- WORKGROUP sanal and Italian craftsmanship, di Marco has helped

THE boost Gucci sales to 3.64 billion euros, or $4.66 billion, AT up 60.6 percent from 2.26 billion euros, or $3.14 bil- lion, in 2009, when he joined the brand. Compared

CLAUDIA with 2011, revenues last year gained 15.8 percent from BY 3.14 billion euros, or $4.36 billion. In 2012, earnings before interest, taxes, deprecia-

MAKEUP tion and amortization climbed 17.7 percent to 1.26 billion euros, or $1.61 billion, compared with 2011.

GROUP; Recurring operating income rose 18.9 percent to 1.12 billion euros, or $1.43 billion, in 2012, compared with WALL 948 million euros, or $1.32 billion, the previous year

THE and was up 82.2 percent compared with 2009. AT Dollar amounts have been converted at average ex-

SEIJI change rates for the periods to which they refer. BY Looking ahead to the next three years, di Marco said

HAIR those brands that “know how to talk to their customers will be the winning ones. This is the real challenge.” As part of the Forever Now project, initiated in 2009,

JANA/FORD; Gucci’s “artisan corners” traveled around the world with company craftsmen showing their production skills. PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN

MODEL: SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013 WWD.COM Tough Quarter, Strong Year for J. Crew come, if you strip out noncom- egories. He did say the company THE BRIEFING BOX By DAVID MOIN parable items, was actually up,” was pleased with its accelerated Stuart C. Haselden, J. Crew’s rate of store openings, having IN TODAY’S WWD THOUGH FOURTH-QUARTER chief financial officer, told WWD. started 2012 with 362 units and net profits declined, J. Crew Group “The adjusted EBITDA [earnings concluding the year with 401. “It Inc. posted strong results for 2012, before interest, taxes, deprecia- was the most store openings we Looks from Roberto Cavalli at the Global Kids Fashion Week including cracking $2 billion in rev- tion and amortization] is a better had in any year,” Haselden said. show in London. For more, see WWD.com enues for the first time and opening apples-to-apples comparison. It For 2013, the company is pro- a record number of stores. was up 18 percent for Q4 to $70.4 jecting 46 openings including its LEXA.COM For the year ended Feb. 2, net million from $59.5 million.” first in Europe, which will be in A profits rose 86.7 percent to $96.1 Fourth-quarter revenues in- London during the fourth quar- LEXAND A million from $51.5 million in creased 21 percent to $642.9 million, ter, in time for holiday selling.

2011, and revenues rose 20 per- with comparable sales increasing Last year, the retail expansion FOR ES

cent to $2.23 billion, with a 3 per- 11 percent. Store sales increased was balanced between divisions, G

cent comparable-sales gain. 18 percent to $416.9 million; direct with 17 Madewells, 14 J. Crews IMA Fourth-quarter net profits fell sales increased 27 percent. and eight factory outlets opening 32.5 percent to $10.2 million com- “Q4 was a continuation of the in the U.S. There were also four J. pared with $15.1 million in the strong trend we saw in the first Crew and two factory outlet open- same quarter a year ago. The com- three quarters with a double-digit ings in Canada. The company also GAVAN/GETTY pany said profits were impacted sales increase,” Haselden said. launched a stand-alone Web site for IAN BY by additional share-based and in- “There was a balanced perfor- the factory outlets, rolled out direct

centive compensation, while net mance between stores and di- distribution to over 100 countries PHOTO income in the year-ago quarter rect, healthy gross margin results, and completed a major expansion benefited from transaction-relat- and for the year we saw adjusted of the Lynchburg, Va., distribu- H&M will today release its 11th annual sustainability report, which ed insurance recoveries partially EBITDA up 27 percent.” Also in tion center, which handles direct outlines plans to continue to push for improved working conditions offset by amortization of inventory 2012, total store sales rose 21 per- orders. Capacity at the facility in- in countries such as Bangladesh and Cambodia. PAGE 1 step up. J. Crew was acquired in cent to $1.5 billion. Direct sales in- creased 50 percent, Haselden said. March 2011 by TPG Capital and creased 19 percent to $651.5 million. J. Crew will stage a confer- Patrizio di Marco, Gucci’s president and chief executive officer, Leonard Green & Partners. Haselden declined to single ence call today outlining details still sees huge potential for the brand. PAGE 1 “The fourth-quarter net in- out any best-selling items or cat- of expansion in 2013. Lululemon Athletica Inc. took a few knocks after it said Monday that it had to recall 17 percent of its women’s bottoms due to subpar product coming out of its Taiwanese supplier. PAGE 6 Guess Plans Executive Additions, Pricing Moves guidance for the first quarter and process of making some strategic Christian Dior is returning to Dallas’ Highland Park Village with By ARNOLD J. KARR full year fell well short of them, management changes.” The com- the official opening of a full-line women’s boutique today. PAGE 6 pushing shares down 6.1 percent pany will also review the perfor- GUESS INC. WILL confront ongo- in the early stages of after-hours mance of underperforming stores British fast-fashion e-tailer Boohoo.com is re-creating famed ing economic headwinds in North trading to $25.31. They ended the as leases come up for renewal. Manchester nightclub Haçienda on Thursday in New York to America and southern Europe by trading session, prior to the dis- The ceo clearly expected promote the recent launch of its U.S. site. PAGE 6 beefing up its depleted executive closure of results, up 20 cents, or conditions to remain difficult ranks and expanding its offerings 0.8 percent, to $26.95. in southern Europe and North Billionaire Edward S. Lampert is getting a base salary of just of lower-priced jeans. In the three months ended America, but noted strength in Paul Marciano, chief executive Feb. 2, net income fell 24.3 per- newer markets, such as Russia, $1 a year to serve as chief executive officer of Sears Holding Corp. officer of the Los Angeles-based cent to $72.6 million, or 85 cents and those outside the most se- — but that’s not his only compensation. PAGE 7 firm, revealed the moves in a a diluted share, from $95.9 mil- verely challenged European conference call to discuss fourth- lion, or $1.05, a year ago. Adjusted locales, such as Germany. The Fergie takes to Manhattan today with the Perfect Pout V.I. Pink lip quarter results that fell well below earnings per share, eliminating respective businesses in those color she developed with Wet ‘n’ Wild to benefit amfAR. PAGE 7 those of a year ago but exceeded the effects of a settlement charge countries increased more than analysts’ expectations. He said on an Italian tax dispute and an 100 percent and 40 percent dur- Dior’s new look under couturier Raf Simons — modern and the company had hired two ex- offsetting tax benefit, were 95 ing the fourth quarter. sleek — now extends to the Lady Dior campaign. PAGE 8 ecutives — one to head design and cents, 8 cents above the 87-cent He noted that Guess had been another to oversee merchandising result expected by analysts. too heavily focused on jeans Galeries Lafayette has transformed its first floor into a of its North American retail op- Revenues rose 5.1 percent to above $100 in recent seasons and 10,760-square-foot showcase for accessories in order to woo erations — and had resumed its $815.1 million from $775.8 mil- was “increasing the denim of- fashion-conscious men. PAGE MW1 search for a chief operating officer lion with Guess’ largest business fering at $75 to $95 price points” to succeed Michael Prince, who unit, North American retail, log- and intended to clearly com- Authentic Brands has signed the first license for HMX Group, resigned in November but wasn’t ging a sales gain of 1.9 percent, municate its dedication to more tapping PVH Corp. to produce furnishings categories under the expected to be replaced. to $350 million, despite a 6.3 per- moderate prices in its stores and Hart Schaffner Marx and Hickey Freeman names. PAGE MW4 Marciano declined to name cent decline in same-store sales. mailings to loyal customers. the new executive hires but said For the full year, net income “We realize that we have ex- Hampshire Group Ltd. reduced its fourth-quarter loss and retained they were expected to be on the fell one-third to $178.7 million, cluded the youngest version of Buxbaum Group to advise it on organization matters. PAGE MW4 job within two months with dis- or $2.05 a diluted share, as rev- the Guess girl, who is more price closure of their identities antici- enues dropped 1.1 percent to conscious than ever,” he said. pated within weeks. Management $265.9 million. Guess expects first-quarter ON WWD.COM had been left shorthanded follow- “I’ve been very disappointed sales of between $545 million ing the news last week that Nancy with the performance in North and $560 million and diluted EPS FASHION: The Global Kids Fashion Week show took place Shachtman, president of North American retail over the past of between 5 and 10 cents. Both at The Freemason’s Hall in London on Tuesday. For more America, had left the company. year,” Marciano told analysts. ranges were well below the $590.8 photos, see WWD.com. While fourth-quarter results “We have taken a hard look at million and 29 cents, respectively, surpassed analysts’ estimates, this business and we’re in the analysts had previously expected. CORRECTION Andrew Rosen is cofounder and chief executive officer of Theory. U.S. Sales Boost Asos Growth in 2nd Qtr. His title was incorrect in an Eye story on page 10, Wednesday. ing 53.7 percent to 35.6 million favoring Asos own-brand product By SAMANTHA CONTI pounds, or $57 million. over the designer brands. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Asos, which targets the stylish “There are a couple of reasons [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. LONDON — Sales in the U.S. twentysomething customer, has just for that. We’re not yet geared up COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. helped boost second-quarter begun to make a push in the U.S. It to sell all of our brands in the VOLUME 205, NO. 58. THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two revenues at Asos by 36.7 per- doesn’t advertise there — or in any U.S., and I think that our U.S. additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance cent to 190.3 million pounds, or market — although it does have a customers hear about Asos, they Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, $302.6 million. monthly print magazine and last land on the site, and they literally Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, The London-based global e- year launched Fashion Up, a week- just go ahead and buy the Asos- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver tailer of fashion and beauty said ly fashion magazine distributed via branded product,” he said. Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North in a trading update Wednesday a free app for the iPhone. He added that Asos is also Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. that in the three months to Feb. Late last year, Asos opened its tweaking its product offer for the Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or 28, the U.S. was its fastest-growing first U.S. office and showroom, a U.S. market. “In European terms, inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine market, with retail sales there ad- 3,325-square-foot space on Greene we’re viewed as very fashionable, is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. vancing 50.1 percent to 16.5 mil- Street in New York. It operates so I think we might need to edit the You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt lion pounds, or $26.2 million. stand-alone Web sites in coun- range slightly for the U.S. market.” of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request All figures have been convert- tries including the U.S., France, He said the company, which for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at ed at average exchange rates for Germany, Australia, Spain and is quoted on the London Stock www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that the three-month period. Italy and ships to more than 160 Exchange, was on track to we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at In the first half, total group rev- countries from its central distri- achieve sales of 750 million P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED enues rose 33.2 percent to 359.7 bution center in the U.K. pounds, or $1.13 billion at cur- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER million pounds, or $575.5 million. Nick Robertson, the compa- rent exchange, and profits of 51 UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR The U.S. was also the fastest grow- ny’s chief executive officer, told million pounds, or $77 million, in DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A ing business in the first half, climb- WWD that the U.S. customers are the 12-month period. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

ZDDLQGG 30  www.ThorEquities.com

Albert Dayan (212) 432-3049 [email protected]

WWW.680MADISON.COM Alexandra Frangos (212) 529-7424 [email protected]

38,500 360 FT 4 WWD THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013

Stella McCartney for Adidas’ polyester tank and shorts, and polyester Steve Madden’s cotton and and spandex leggings. polyester sweatshirt worn Stella McCartney over BCBG Generations’ for Adidas sneakers. rayon and spandex hoodie and sweatpants; Steve Madden’s nylon and spandex sports bra.

Only Hearts’ rayon and Lycra tunic, bra and shorts. Keds sneakers.

QUEEN

BOBBI BY

STYLED

ERICKSEN; KYLE BY

PHOTOS MODEL: JANA/FORD; HAIR BY SEIJI AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY CLAUDIA AT THE WORKGROUP LTD. FOR MAC COSMETICS; FASHION ASSISTANT: AMANDA KELLNER WWD THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013 5 WWD.COM bright angles

ACTIVEWEAR DESIGNERS ARE FULL OF BRIGHT IDEAS F O R FALL.

Calvin Klein’s nylon and spandex sweatshirt and polyester and spandex jersey shorts. Keds sneakers.

Emilio Cavallini’s nylon and spandex fishnet shirt over Champion’s polyester and spandex bra and shorts. Alejandro Ingelmo sneakers. 6 WWD THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013

pact on the brand,” said William With stellar same-store sales Blair & Co. retail analyst Sharon trends that are up 35 percent Weighing Lululemon’s Recall Woes Zackfia, who said that the recall on a two-year basis, Lululemon impacted only 5 or 6 percent of has been one of retail’s stron- black Luon pants dubbed 5 percent and 7 percent and for its overall product. ger growth stories during the By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD the “Wunder Under,” deliv- sales to be between $333 million “The amount of customers downturn. ered a March 1 batch that was and $343 million. touched by this [incident] was Nonetheless, the first half LULULEMON ATHLETICA Inc., too “sheer,” according to the Wall Street was expecting very small,” the analyst added. of 2013 will likely be some- the popular high-end maker of Vancouver-based company. The $349.8 million in sales in the “The biggest issue, if there is what of a humbling moment trendy yoga clothes, took a few product was pulled from its first quarter. any issue, is the lack of product. for Lululemon. Analysts said knocks this week after it said shelves two weeks later, causing Analysts and media outlets If they don’t see the ‘Wonder second-half strategies such as Monday that it had to recall Lululemon to issue a statement pounced on Lululemon’s mis- Under’ that they love, do they go merchandising optimization black pants making up about 17 admitting that the recall would step, wondering if the brand somewhere else?” and the integration of iPads in percent of its women’s bottoms have a “significant impact” on with the cult following of self- Despite Wall Street “chat- stores for consumers to order due to subpar product coming its financial results. professed “Luluheads” would ter,” Zackfia said “there’s noth- out-of-stock product online out of its Taiwanese supplier, Lululemon, which reports lose dollars to competitors such ing” in Lululemon’s financials would help drive growth. Eclat Textile Co. fourth-quarter earnings today, as Nike Inc., The Gap’s Athleta that indicates the brand is los- But in regards to The company’s stock, which said until March 17, same-store and Under Armour Inc. or the ing market share. Lululemon’s dearth of Wunder topped $70 this month, fell sales were up 11 percent and host of independent niche yoga “Lulu did about $1,000 per Under pants, Wall Street and as low of $62 on Tuesday. On revenue guidance was antici- brands that have flooded the square foot in Canada in the Luluheads alike will have to Wednesday its stock dipped pated to be in the $350 million market in recent years. fourth quarter alone, which is wait for chief executive officer slightly, shedding 20 cents to to $355 million range for the “It’s too soon to say honestly, roughly three times what an av- Christine Day to address that close at $63.88. first quarter. Now it expects but my suspicion is that [the re- erage retailer does in the full issue today — and expect the Eclat, which makes stretchy same-store sales to rise between call] will have very limited im- year,” the analyst offered. stock to react accordingly. Dior Opens Boutique in Dallas Boohoo.com Launches By MARC KARIMZADEH U.S. Fast-Fashion Site CHRISTIAN DIOR is returning to Dallas’ Highland Last year, Boohoo ac- Park Village with the official opening of a full-line By DAVID LIPKE quired a 150,000 square women’s boutique today. foot warehouse distribution The 3,742-square-foot store features four sa- BRITISH FAST-FASHION center in Burnley, outside lons devoted to a category of product each, i.e. Raf e-tailer Boohoo.com is re- of Manchester, from which Simons’ ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes and fine creating famed Manchester it fulfills global orders.

jewelry and watches. Its interior, created by Dior’s URBANEK nightclub Haçienda on “That’s probably the best architecture team, has a mix of 18th century and Thursday in New York to thing we’ve done for our fu-

modern details, and was inspired by the Avenue MICHAEL promote the recent launch ture,” said Kane.

Montaigne flagship (architect Peter Marino was not A view of the new Dior BY of its U.S. site. Set in a for- Boohoo was launched involved in this specific unit). boutique in Dallas. mer firehouse on Lafayette in the U.K. in 2006 by As reported, Highland Park Village owners Ray PHOTO Street, the one-night-only Kane and co-ceo Mahmud and Heather Washburne and Stephen and Elisa Baxter called the potential for the brand in Dallas party is meant to evoke the Kamani. The company’s Summers have been intensifying the center’s focus “huge.” “It will probably end up being in our top five U.S. rave and house music scene roots stretch back to the on luxury since they bought it in 2009, and Dior fit boutiques,” she said. The opening brings the number of of the Eighties and Nineties Eighties, when Kamani’s the bill. Pamela Baxter, president of Christian Dior Dior boutiques in the U.S. to 18. that turned Haçienda into father, Abdullah Kamani, Couture, said the timing was right for the opening. To mark the occasion, the company is staging an ex- a legendary club venue. The French luxury house had a short-lived unit hibition of Dior images from Patrick Demarchelier’s Among other claims to A summer look there in the early Aughts. 2011 “Dior Couture” book. There are 61 of fame, Madonna played her from Boohoo. “Highland Park Village has been completely re- Demarchelier’s prints on display. “Each dress is a work first U.K. gig there in 1984. vamped into a luxury center,” she noted. “[The new of art,” the photographer said. “I spoke to Dior about the Based in Manchester, owners are] working very diligently to upgrade all of idea of presenting each work of art in different ways, Boohoo launched a U.S.- the stores. It’s in the most prestigious and wealthy in various locations.” As for his personal favorites, he specific site in the fall and neighborhood in Dallas. A lot of our main competitors pointed to an image of Karlie Kloss in an embroidered is gaining traction here are there, and several of our top clients who are cur- coat and dress from John Galliano’s spring 2005 Dior with its wide-ranging se- rently shopping in other boutiques are from Dallas.” Haute Couture collection. “She looks like a Barbie doll lection of inexpensive, The city and Dior have a long history: Stanley in a box in the middle of Times Square,” he said. The private-label styles for an Marcus gave Christian Dior himself the Neiman exhibition will be on view through April 19. There are 18- to 25-year-old target Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the also seven haute couture gowns from the house’s ar- demographic, said co-chief Field of Fashion in 1947 — the year the designer chives on show. As Baxter put it, “It’s really introducing executive officer Carol started in business. the Dallas client to the couture roots of the house.” Kane. At any one time, the site offers 8,000 items, such as body-conscious dresses, denim, skirts and footwear, with 100 new choices added Malandrino Links With Kohl’s for Line every day. The major- As the third designer to participate in Kohl’s ity of its merchandise sells By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG DesigNation, Malandrino will unveil her 80-style for between $20 and $50, founded Pinstripe Clothing limited-edition collection in late September and with a higher-end Boohoo Co. as a supplier to British EVEN AFTER NEARLY 16 years of the New York early October. A graphic black-and-white striped Boutique line offering more high-street fashion chains. life, Catherine Malandrino still thinks of Paris as cocoon cardigan inspired by the Column of Buren intricate designs and tai- The Kamani family and a second home. And soon she will be sharing that is one of Malandrino’s favorite items. Scarves, lored styles that sell for up Kane now own Boohoo with French flair through Kohl’s DesigNation program. brooches, tote bags and berry-colored accents to $150. a handful of other investors, During an interview Wednesday morning at were among the finishing touches Malandrino The site is on track to via a parent company called Pastis in Manhattan, the French-born design- used to show her team French women’s ring up sales of $30 million Wasabi Frog Ltd. er vividly described leading the project’s style. With retail prices ranging from to $50 million in the U.S. in Boohoo competes in the eight-person team on a tour of Paris in late $36 to $130, the line will be sold in 1,100 the current fiscal year end- same space as Asos.com, December. Malandrino, who uses her apart- Kohl’s stores as well as through kohls. ing Feb. 2014, said Kane. Topshop, River Island and ment in the 8th arrondissement regularly, com. Malandrino will film a commercial Total global company sales H&M, with Boohoo usually took them to the Musée Rodin, Parc Monceau, with Kohl’s for the rollout, which will also are on track for sales of offering lower prices than Pont des Arts bridge, Pigalle and numerous other include print and digital advertising. Council $330 million, up from $150 those brands, said Kane. stops where they did more than admire the scen- of Fashion Designers of America chief ex- million last year. The U.S. site is custom- ery. The intricate design of an iron gate outside ecutive officer Steven Kolb and Li & Fung’s “Our concept and selling ized to this market with Parc Monceau was reinterpreted for a jacquard Haim Dabah first approached Malandrino point is all about the lat- prices in dollars and appro- print and the drawings Malandrino sketched on about the Kohl’s deal. The fact that some of est fashions and trends at priate sizing conversions. a paper place mat during a cappuccino break the proceeds will benefit the CFDA appealed a great value,” said Kane. The company has run a at Les Deux Magots wound up in another print. to her, she said. About 95 percent of sales television campaign since Even a photo of Paris rooftops that was taken Having introduced the diffusion label are in women’s and five per- the fall on MTV, the E net- from atop the Roue de Paris was used for a digi- Catherine Catherine Malandrino, which has cent in men’s, with that lat- work and Fuse to market tal print on a silk jersey dress. “Every woman in an average retail price of $20, she said the chal- ter figure expected to grow the brand in the U.S. America has a French dream in her head, espe- lenge today to be an accomplished to about 10 percent this year. DJs Graeme Park and cially a Parisian one,” said Malandrino. designer requires offering differ- The company relies on Marshall Jefferson from the “I always go to Paris for a reason but this time ent products to different markets. a robust sourcing network glory days of Haçienda are fly- I wanted to step back as a woman who wants to “This is what I find changing. You to turn around a produc- ing over from England to man rediscover Paris with all knowledge to make have to have a much more open tion order “from concept to the turntables at the Thursday it more of a secret adventure for them,” mind about adding different cre- closet” in four to six weeks. event. “I’m a Haçienda girl Malandrino said. “I feel every city has a A Catherine Malandrino sketch ativity to new categories and the It operates sourcing offices myself. I’m old enough to have soul. New York is all about transformation. for her DesigNation limited- man who has been showing us the in China, India, Turkey and known its first go-round,” Paris is all about timeless propositions.” edition collection at Kohl’s. way is Karl Lagerfeld,” she said. the U.K. quipped Kane. WWD THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013 7 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Fergie’s ‘Perfect’ Pink Duhamel will welcome in September. “I By JULIE NAUGHTON knew I had to get off tour to be pregnant — THE $1 CEO: Billionaire Edward S. David Macdonald, deputy director I wasn’t going to be one of those girls tour- Lampert is getting a base salary of just of Sotheby’s furniture department, WHEN STACY “FERGIE” Ferguson ing with a bun in the oven,” said Ferguson, $1 a year to serve as chief executive believes it’s not the paintings or the takes to Manhattan’s Times Square today who nevertheless is keeping quite busy officer of Sears Holding Corp. — but furniture that truly sum up the man. to help make over three lucky “Good with her makeup line, her fragrances with that’s not his only compensation. Instead it’s a silver-plated pocket Morning America” viewers, she’ll be Avon (she notes that her latest, Viva, is Lampert will receive Sears stock watch, made by Bulgari and Links of wielding a secret weapon she’s ready to “very fresh, clean and crisp”), her footwear valued at $4.5 million for each year of London, and customized for Birley. make all too public: the Perfect Pout V.I. collection with Brown Shoe Co., smart- the first three years he occupies the In place of numbers, there’s an array Pink lip color she developed with Wet ‘n’ phone and tablet cases with Case Mate, her corner office. He will also participate of daily choices corresponding to the Wild to benefit the American Foundation part ownership in the Miami Dolphins and in the company’s incentive plan, appropriate hour, such as Beluga or for AIDS Research, or amfAR. her partnership with Voli Vodka. “I knew through which he could make another Sevruga? Book Sirenuse or Cipriani? Roughly 50 cents of each $3.49 shim- I had to get home to make this happen. I $2 million. Charvet or Zegna? and Backgammon mery sheer pink lip color, part of Lampert’s pay was disclosed or Bed? — SAMANTHA CONTI Ferguson’s CenterStage color collection, in a filing with the Securities and will benefit amfAR — a cause that has Exchange Commission, which also CATWALK CUTIES: There were almost long been dear to her heart, even before showed that he controls 58.9 million as many tots in the audience as she signed on as Wet ‘n’ Wild’s global shares of the company, or 55.4 percent there were on the catwalk for the beauty ambassador in March 2012. of those outstanding. The hedge first Global Kids Fashion Week in “For me, it was really important to fund operator orchestrated the 2005 London on Tuesday. Launched by have a charitable component to my cos- combination of Sears and Kmart Alexandalexa.com, the online kid’s metics line,” Ferguson told WWD in a

and also serves as the company’s wear retailer, the invitation-only event phone interview before boarding a plane THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY chairman. — EVAN CLARK saw Camilla Rutherford, Jemma Kidd, Jodie to New York. “I did the MAC Viva Glam Kidd, Portia Freeman and their progeny campaign [in 2008], and I was very in- on the front row at the first of two spired by the cause and motivated to do The Drawing Room in Thurloe Lodge. shows in the two-day event. something myself. Wet ‘n’ Wild The key children’s wear trends for has been amazing, and we’ve fall 2013 were showcased via creations really pushed this forward and from more than 30 established and embraced it with open arms.” emerging designers, including Kenzo, Going forward, she plans Roberto Cavalli, Oscar de La Renta, each year to do a different Billieblush, Mini A Ture and Issosy, beauty product to benefit on diminutive models that walked, amfAR, à la MAC Cosmetics. skipped, danced and cartwheeled “I want to pay homage to STOP HERE down the runway at Freemason’s Hall. MAC Viva Glam,” she said. A federal judge No fashion week is complete She will also be honored WHAT’S IN A NAMEPLATE?: in San Francisco denied Macy’s Inc.’s without the obligatory after party at the third annual amfAR request for a partial summary judgment so, for GKFW, the Lodge room was Inspiration Gala in Brazil on in a case involving the trademarks transformed into a children’s playland April 5, during which she will of several legacy department store with a giant bubble machine, a receive the amfAR Award of banners, including The Bon Marche, manicure bar for little fingers from Inspiration. At press time, Abraham & Straus, Robinson’s and The LittleBU, a photo booth and a popcorn Ferguson — who will cel- Fergie and Perfect Broadway. vendor. It seems that fashion shows ebrate her 38th birthday Pout lipstick. Newport Coast, Calif.-based Strategic aren’t just for the ready-to-wear crowd on March 27 — had 652,186 Marks applied to use the trademarks anymore. “I don’t think [kid’s wear] followers on Twitter, and with an intention of inking accessories is recognized enough, especially she invited all of them to have my hands and plate full now,” she or apparel deals and eventually setting with the lesser known and emerging Times Square today, where said, noting that new product catego- up stores using the names. Macy’s designers,” said Freeman. “Since she will play beauty fairy ries aren’t imminent. “Being pregnant, sued and claimed that it was still using having my son, I’ve entered the world godmother. “We really it’s great to do a lot of work from home. the trademarks and Strategic Marks of children’s fashion and I love it!” wanted to include social I do it being comfortable and not wor- countersued. While Tuesday’s media and VIP media with this,” she said. rying about hair and makeup. As far as Judge in San Francisco event showcased coming trends for next “We’ll select three winners what I’m going to do when the child Samuel Conti federal court said Macy’s argued HIGH LIVING: The luxe life of the season, Wednesday’s consumer show will and feature the makeovers comes? I have no idea what I’m going to Strategic Marks never sold any products late Mark Birley — aesthete, highlight current spring 2013 trends from on live television and on tell you,” she said with a rueful laugh. or opened any stores, rendering its perfectionist, compulsive shopper brands including Rachel Riley, Munster social media. [This cause As far as children go, Ferguson trademark registrations void. Strategic and founder of the Kids, Finger in the is] very close to my heart.” noted that while Duhamel initially Marks argued it was building a Web legendary London club Nose, Billieblush Also very close to her wanted five, they finally settled on two. site, satisfying the requirements for an Annabel’s — will be and Mischka Aoki heart is her most personal “It’s important that you want the same “intent to use” trademark application. laid bare today as some to ticket-buying production yet: the child thing, if you’re going to go on this path Conti ruled that “plaintiffs have 500 of his personal members of the she and husband Josh together,” she said. not persuaded the court that there are effects go under the public, with the no material issues of fact for trial. A hammer at Sotheby’s in proceeds going to reasonable jury, reviewing the evidence London. The objects, the charity Kids that the parties have provided up to this which range from a host Company. point and regarding the evidence in the of dog paintings and — JULIA NEEL AND light most favorable to defendant, could drawings — including a LORELEI MARFEL resolve the instant matter in defendant’s Dante Gabriel Rossetti favor.” and a pencil portrait of THUNDER DOMA?: So the legal battle continues, with a sleeping dachshund Croatian ready- nearly forgotten department store names by Birley’s pal David to-wear designer For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. in the wings. Hockney — to sterling Damir Doma — Ellia Kassoff, president and chief silver bath taps and known for his executive officer of Strategic Marks, said novelty cocktail shakers, minimalist, are all from Birley’s avant-garde looks South Kensington home, with a keen focus PHOTO BY IAN GAVAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR ALEXANDALEXA.COMFOR IMAGES GAVAN/GETTY IAN BY PHOTO Spaces Thurloe Lodge. His Looks from Oscar de la Renta on fabrics and daughter and heir India- shown at Global Kids Fashion Week. construction — is COMMERCIAL Jane Birley put the objects said to be Pitti up for sale, nearly six Immagine’s guest REAL ESTATE E-DESIGN-IT years after her father’s death from a star at the next edition of Italian trade Must have for Fashion Designers-3D ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE stroke in 2007. fair Pitti W, which runs from June 18 to Sofware! Free Consultation! Call 732- Established Major Import Company 589-6575 or E-mail: of over 30 years (based in Los An- “My father, Mark Birley…lived 21 in Florence. [email protected] geles) is seeking a NY ACCOUNT in discreet splendor at Thurloe Lapo Cianchi, Pitti’s director of New York Embroidery Studio EXECUTIVE to work from their cor- Lodge. Its style revealed his great communication and events, said he Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking porate NY showroom on Seventh Great ’New’ Office Space Avail novelty embellishments NYC, China & India Avenue. This individual should have depth of character and knowledge of would neither confirm nor deny rumors 212-971-9101 [email protected] furniture and paintings,” said Birley. of Doma’s appearance at the fair. “What ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 at least three years experience sell- “Thurloe Lodge provided perfect I will say is that we really like Damir ing in high volume to major retail- ers. This is a full time position with accommodation for one man, several Doma,” Cianchi said. “He belongs to a competitive salary plus commission dogs and an occasional guest. It had not generation of young designers who fit and offers the opportunity to expand been designed for family living. Hence in with Pitti’s line of thought.” with a successful and well perform- the difficult decision to sell the old Representatives from the Paris- ing brand. E-mail resumes to: house and its beautiful contents. His based Doma brand declined to [email protected] ashes are near me on the drinks tray. comment. Better there than in a wet garden. And I Maison Kitsuné was chosen as like to think he approves of the sale, for guest designer for Pitti W’s last (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] being an artist he understands my need edition, which ran from Jan. 8 to 11. to carve out my own space too.” — CYNTHIA MARTENS

ZDDLQGG 30  8 WWD THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013 WWD.COM Di Marco Touts Gucci Potential H&M Pushes Transparency {Continued from page one} freedom of association has proven {Continued from page one} egy is to control the brand di- there and there’s more consum- challenging for political reasons. “I’m thinking of regrouping Gucci’s rectly; this is the absolute value, ers looking for this,” Helmersson H&M has made a commit- their stories to run on our Web fall the start and end of the success said. “Many groups of stakehold- ment to ethics. “H&M has shown site,” said di Marco, noting runway of any company,” said di Marco, ers are looking for increased awareness of their company’s the company has held 25 to 30 show. who has already inked a joint traceability.” exposure to corruption chal- events a year. The “artisan cor- venture in the Middle East for Another reason for publish- lenges in its supply chain and ners” also helped to deliver a the opening of directly operated ing the supplier factory list is has put great efforts into trans- message di Marco considers stores and is negotiating along to “put demands on suppliers parency and reporting on their fundamental:“Customers in- the same lines with the compa- that they take responsibility activities,” Birgitta Nygren of creasingly ask for personalized ny’s Russian partners. for sustainability,” Helmersson Transparency International products and we will continue While underscoring that said. The November factory fire Sweden is quoted in the report. to emphasize this. The message “there is a limit to how many in Bangladesh that killed 118 The retailer tracks energy ef- is that Gucci is big but it still has stores you can open,” preferring workers is a cautionary tale for ficiency and studies climate im- artisans that create for you and to consolidate in some areas, the industry. Wal-Mart Stores pact from a product’s life cycle. you alone.” di Marco said a men’s boutique Inc. has acknowledged that one Its goal is to source 100 percent With global expansion, com- will open in Milan’s arty Brera of its suppliers subcontracted of electricity from renewable panies are obliged to meet the district in June, followed by a work to the Tazreen factory, sources and reduce electricity needs of a wide range of cus- men’s store in Paris. The Brera where the blaze occurred, un- used in stores by 20 percent. Its tomers, yet at the same time, boutique will carry the capsule beknownst to the retailer and in goal of reducing emissions by local expectations are high. “I collection designed by Fiat heir violation of its policy — which five percent relative to sales each

don’t really like the word ‘glo- M Lapo Elkann. “It’s very beauti- Wal-Mart has since tightened. year was achieved in 2012 and cal,’ but it is key. We offer a ful, and it’s an interesting proj- “The fire in Bangladesh was the retailer is setting new targets. NYC.CO

consistent approach and recog- A ect. He is a friend of the house, so terribly tragic because we’ve H&M in 2012 was the number- F nizable offer, but it is differen- B a person of great taste, so young known of the problem for years,” one user of organic cotton in the ONI/

tiated depending on the local D but already an icon and he is Helmersson said. “The way work- world for the second consecutive

situation. Individuality now is RAN very intelligent. With [Gucci cre- ers are treated in Bangladesh in year. Helmersson said the com- P the variable which we need to ative director] Frida [Giannini], general is a societal problem. pany is well positioned to meet its tackle,” di Marco underscored. they had fun working together, [Other retailers] have had discus- goal of using 100 percent organic

In 2012, the Asia Pacific MATTEO it’s the synthesis of two worlds,” sions about leaving Bangladesh. cotton by 2020. The retailer is also region remained the group’s BY said di Marco. I’ve never seen a company actu- a leading member of the Better main market, accounting for Elkann worked with Giannini ally leave a country. When you Cotton Initiative, where farmers MARCO I D

37 percent of sales and gaining on the Fiat 500 by Gucci in 2011. leave a country it’s really not good receive know-how and tools to 5.5 percent. Western Europe Asked about the location in for the country and the workers.” produce more cotton while re- represented 27 percent of rev- Milan, slightly removed from H&M sources more apparel ducing their impact on the envi- MAESTRI;

enues, climbing 9.2 percent, E the usual golden shopping tri- from Bangladesh than any other ronment and raising profitability. followed by North America, D angle off Via Montenapoleone, retailer in the world, followed by H&M wants to become the in-

which accounted for 19 percent DAVI di Marco conceded Gucci will be Wal-Mart. There was no evidence dustry leader on water. Last year, of sales and increased 13.4 per- BY sort of “a pioneer in that area. that H&M suppliers were using it saved 450 million liters of water cent. Di Marco said there are We have faith that it will have Tazreen. However, an H&M sup- during production and entered “important market segments PHOTO good opportunities.” plier was sourcing goods from into a three-year partnership with in the U.S. — a beautiful mar- Speaking a few weeks after a Bangladesh factory, Garib & the World Wildlife Fund. H&M RUNWAY the birth of his daughter Greta with Giannini, di Marco was in group’s core business. Footwear high spirits and energetic. He is the second category, account- took the time to firmly silence ru- ing for 13 percent of revenues, mors that have been circulating up 15.8 percent, followed by over the past few months about ready-to-wear, representing 12 his potential move to executive percent, and up 13.6 percent. roles within Gucci’s parent com- Gross capital expenditures pany PPR, with current Bottega An ad for were up 83.2 percent to 204 Veneta ceo Marco Bizzarri ru- H&M’s million euros, or $261.1 mil- mored to succeed him. Conscious lion. This included investments “This speculation creates Collection. in the group’s retail network, uneasiness and confusion, production, logistics, technol- and it has no foundation. I’m Garib, where in 2010 at least 21 will see how it can work more ef- ogy and marketing activities concerned about the people workers perished in a fire. At the ficiently with water, beginning at and communication, such as working with us, who feel un- time, H&M said it had recently the design stage through teaching the brand’s Forever Now ads certainty. If I had any interest audited the factory and was satis- customers how to wash the fibers. featuring Charlotte Casiraghi in fueling this I would say no fied with the way its code of con- Helmersson declined to give introduced at the beginning of comment, but there is nothing duct was being followed. a figure for the cost all of H&M’s Patrizio March last year. At the end of to it,” di Marco insisted. Factory audits are one way to sustainable and ethical invest- di Marco 2012, Gucci’s long-term support He headed Bottega Veneta keep abreast of safety issues in ments. “H&M doesn’t even cal- of UNICEF, started in 2005, sur- for eight years before Gucci. factories. H&M in 2012 conduct- culate the total cost of it because ket — that have matured,” he passed the $13 million mark. “I am very happy and very ed 2,646 audits on factories and it’s so integrated into our busi- said, before adding, “[But] we As of Dec. 31, Gucci had 429 proud,” he added. “All my career 9,815 worker interviews. About 25 ness,” she said. “Different func- should emphasize who they are directly operated stores, which, I’ve been loyal and committed to percent of potential new factories tions and departments have their as individuals and not part of a together with e-commerce, ac- the project. Four years at Gucci were rejected at the first audit, budgets. Some things we can cal- group. This transforms the way counted for 75 percent of sales. may seem like many but they are the company said. But H&M said culate, but it’s not something we to approach them.” The luxury firm is increas- few at the same time. I am mo- after the 2010 fire, “As far as we disclose. We can talk about how Japan accounted for 11 ingly focused on retail, and is tivated and I have a great rela- know, this terrible accident was much we’re investing in WWF percent of sales and grew 5.3 now in talks to shift corners tionship with and support from not caused by poor working con- — 27 million Swedish Krona [$4 percent. at Holt Renfrew and Neiman François-Henri Pinault [chair- ditions or safety measures.” million at current exchange].” All categories showed growth Marcus from wholesale to retail, man and ceo of PPR]. Of course, “Fire safety is an industry H&M was the first fashion last year. Leather goods ac- as it has already done with Saks it is the shareholder that de- problem where it’s more about company give customers around counted for 59 percent of sales, Fifth Avenue. “They continue cides, but ideally I would want electrical safety,” Helmersson the world a way to recycle old up 15.4 percent compared with to be partners, it’s just a logical to close my career at Gucci. said. “A brand coming to do an clothes from any brand in any the previous year, remaining the consequence for us. The strat- Where do you go after Gucci?” inspection cannot tell if a wire condition. The retailer partnered is correctly connected or not.” with Global Green, the beneficia- Karl-Johan Persson, H&M’s ry of the H&M program. In the chief executive officer, recently long run, the retailer wants to in the U.S., due out on April 9. It met with Bangladesh Prime make new clothes from the gar- MEMO PAD will also be showcased, along with Minister Sheikh Hasina to dis- ments and close the textile loop. making-of images, on diormag.com. cuss the importance of raising H&M today will launch its Dior’s new look the country’s minimum wage. new Conscious Collection, MADE MARION: INO — MILES SOCHA under couturier Raf Simons — D The meeting followed two let- backed by an ad campaign fea- ON

modern and sleek — now extends M CARLA’S TURN: Bulgari has tapped ters sent in 2010 by H&M to the turing Vanessa Paradis. The to the Lady Dior campaign. Carla Bruni-Sarkozy to front its haute government. After the letters Exclusive Conscious Collection, Wearing looks from the pre- joaillerie ad campaign, which were sent, the country’s mini- inspired by Hollywood’s Golden BAPTISTE fall collection and bathed in - will break in the second half of mum wage was increased by up Age, will launch on April 4 in EAN

colorful, dramatic lighting, Marion J the year, according to sources. to 81 percent, but systems for 140 stores and online. Made BY Cotillard poses for photographer This will be the first time Bruni annual reviews are still lacking. with organic cotton, recycled Jean-Baptiste Mondino in the latest appears in a campaign for the H&M said 18 percent of facto- polyester, recycled polyamide episode. She never holds the PHOTO Roman jewelry house. The buzz ries in EMEA have union repre- and Tencel, the line is red car- iconic handbag, but flirts with it, Marion Cotillard in the Lady is that France’s former first lady sentation, 78 percent in the Far pet-ready. Helen Hunt wore a and occasionally plays coy. Dior campaign. was photographed in Rome this East and 6 percent in South Asia. strapless navy gown from H&M’s The new spots are slated to week by Terr y Richardson. A Bulgari Collective bargaining for wages Conscious Collection to the 2013 break in Numéro magazine in France on spokeswoman said the company had no has led to violence in Bangladesh Academy Awards, accessorized Monday and in the May issue of Vanity Fair comment. — LUISA ZARGANI and Cambodia, while in China, with $700,000 worth of jewelry.

ZDDLQGG 30  MAN OF THE WEEK Bloom O! the Rose PLUS: Hampshire Group reduced its net loss in the fourth quarter New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg could despite a decline in sales. Page MW4 use some up-to-date style tweaks to keep with the times. Page MW4

March 21, 2013

PARISIAN REVAMP PHOTOS BY KRISTIINA WILSON; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA A Man’s World at Galeries Lafayette French store ups the ante with new accessories area.

by PAULINA SZMYDKE

PARIS — As part of a master plan to woo the growing ranks of fashion-conscious men, Galeries Lafayette has transformed its first floor into a 10,760-square-foot show- case for accessories. Doubling its offer, the French depart- ment store now displays about 100 brands, including 30 that are new to the retailer and some that are exclusive, such as Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and Fendi. Other brands, including Paul Smith and Burberry, were present before but previous- ly had no dedicated accessory space. Dior Homme is set to move in next month. “Accessories are even more important for men than for women,” asserted Saad Daher, head of the men’s buying team at Galeries Lafayette. “They are no longer what their name implies; they have become essential — a mode of expression.” Daher said the male shopper has evolved rapidly in recent years: “He is more fashion- educated than ever before and understands how to mix and match brands in ways only women knew before.” Although Daher deems market research Getting predicting double-digit growth for men’s wear encouraging, he said it was not the decisive factor for the makeover. “If we had been driven by numbers, we would have kept the shirts on the first floor, which are a much more profitable category, but we didn’t,” he Cozy said. “We moved them to the third. There is something new happening in fashion every What started day, and we needed space to express that.” The floor is split up mainly by category — with a simple watches, leather goods, hats and even bow ties and suspenders — with multiple expo- #cozyboyz has sures according to price positioning. There evolved into a is what’s dubbed a “creative laboratory” for trendy niche brands, a “bijoux bar” for male underworld social jewelry and a beauty space. A lifestyle area displays items including cameras, books and media fashion high-tech gadgets. A wall showcasing 750 different models of trend — sweatpants, sunglasses makes a big impression. “I dare say, it is the most important space in France, hoodies and other possibly even in Europe. We are keeping it as active-inspired exclusive as it can be,” said Daher. “Dior has just launched its Asian fit here.” pieces that also The floor also boasts designated pop- From left: Kenzo’s silk up spaces to serve as a launch pad for new dominated the jacket, Calvin Klein MODELS brands or specific fashion trends. This Collection’s bonded month it’s the Karl Lagerfeld watch collec- runways for fall. FUSION tion by Fossil. In April the theme shifts to

wool mesh sweater and AT For more on this Jonathan Saunders’ wool “fashion sports,” giving the floor to Lacoste’s pants. Y-3 sneakers. ISSER runway collection and Franco-Swedish con- temporary gymwear brand Ron Dorff. emerging trend, VON Z Zegna’s wool jacket, Mannequin displays will rotate frequent- MAX see pages MW2 Sibling’s wool polo and ly to highlight what Daher called “fashion T by Alexander Wang’s AND expression” and to keep up with the pace and MW3. wool pants. Marc by HAN of change. “Last week it was all about the Marc Jacobs hat and color blue, because we really believe in this Y-3 sneakers. NOMA color,” he said. “Every three weeks there will be something new.”

MODELS: {Continued on page MW4} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013 Men’s Week

Neil Barrett’s polyamide and spandex sweatshirt, Y-3’s cotton button-down shirt and T by Alexander Wang’s wool pants. Vans hat.

It’s not often that disparate markets collide so seamlessly. Elements of designer sportswear, streetwear and premium activewear combine to create a new aesthetic that helps define today’s youth movement. — ALEX BADIA

Kris Van Assche’s cotton blazer, Nike’s cotton hoodie, Adidas Originals by Mark McNairy’s cotton T-shirt and Tim Coppens’ nylon and leather pants. McQ Alexander McQueen sneakers. PHOTOS BY KRISTIINA WILSON Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013 MW3

Patrik Ervell’s silk jacket, McQ Alexander McQueen’s cotton sweatshirt and Marc by Marc Jacobs’ cotton shirt. Vans hat.

Public School’s wool, leather and fur coat; Reason’s cotton sweatshirt; Tim Coppens’ cotton shirt, and Emporio Armani’s polyamide and spandex Christopher Kane’s cotton hoodie pants. Y-3 sneakers. and Calvin Klein Collection’s cotton pants. Sibling snood; LAHERTY F Christopher Shannon sneakers; Chuck Originals backpack. ARLENE M

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ASHION F

CAMPUZANO; UIS L

SSISTANT: A

ASHION F

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USING RTISTS A

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From left: Tim Coppens’ leather and wool jacket, MODELS; Christopher Raeburn’s nylon FUSION

jacket and Kris Van Assche’s AT cotton pants. Hurley hat. ISSER

Dior Homme’s technical MAX

canvas jacket, Emporio AND Armani’s shirt and pants, MSGM’s nylon jacket, McQ both in polyamide Alexander McQueen’s cotton HAN shirt and Christopher Shannon’s

and spandex. Chuck NOMA Originals backpack. cotton pants. Y-3 backpack. MODELS:

ZE  ELQGG 30  MW4 WWD THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2013 Men’s Week GALERIES LAFAYETTE UPDATES ACCESSORIES HMX Licenses PVH for Furnishings {Continued from page MW1} by JEAN E. PALMIERI Under the terms of the purchase, At the so-called laboratory, Authentic Brands bought the intel- the focus is on “fashionable niche AUTHENTIC BRANDS has lectual property of HMX and Doug brands of high quality that will signed the first license for its Williams, its former chief execu- speak to someone who is edu- newly acquired HMX Group, tive officer, is operating the brands cated about fashion,” Daher said. tapping PVH Corp. to produce a and has retained its American For the moment, these include variety of furnishings categories manufacturing facilities. leather goods by Jerome Dreyfuss, under the Hart Schaffner Marx Woodhouse said he sees poten- Melinda Gloss and Comme des and Hickey Freeman names. tial in all these newly licensed cat- Garçons, among others, along with Under the terms of the five- egories. “Having Hickey Freeman select men’s jewelry pieces by year license, PVH will manufac- on the waistband of men’s briefs is Ginette NY, Redline and Samuel ture dress shirts, neckwear, un- a great extension,” he said. Gassmann, which are exclusive to derwear and loungewear, with the The licenses also cover Hickey O Galeries Lafayette. ties launching for fall-holiday of by Hickey Freeman and HSM

Daher predicted that the new CANIN this year and the dress shirts, un- 1887, two lower-priced diffusion A Man’s World at accessories department would derwear and loungewear hitting labels. “Now that the company is RICIA change the store’s image. “On the T the market for spring 2014, ac- invested and highly capitalized, PA

Galeries Lafayette one hand, we have remained to- Views of the new men’s floor designed BY cording to David Sirkin, president we can do derivatives,” he said. tally Galeries Lafayette, a depart- by Bruno Moinard at Galeries Lafayette. of neckwear for PVH. The under- Concept One has also been ment store which is open to ev- wear and loungewear categories licensed to produce belts, small PHOTOS eryone. On the other, what people are brand extensions for HMX. leather goods, headwear, bags will discover in the luxe and lab gained market share in France — The transformation is only Sirkin said PVH will work with and cold-weather items for both corners, they didn’t expect to find in Paris, especially.” the first step of a greater plan set the design team at HMX to get di- the premium and diffusion la- here,” he explained. The new space, which boasts for completion in 2014, when the rection so it can produce “the best bels, Woodhouse said. The price range reflects that atti- light beige stone floors, chrome delicatessen floor, the Galeries assortment that represents their Looking ahead, Woodhouse tude, ranging from affordable to lux- and brass furnishings, as well as a Lafayette Gourmet, will be moved traditional lifestyle.” said the company will be seeking ury in order to attract a broad pub- Piet Mondrian-inspired graphic on across the street to Galeries The brands will be managed licensees for outerwear, footwear, lic. “Watches start at 39 euros [$50.50 the ceiling, was designed by archi- Lafayette Maison. “The whole by PVH’s Insignia division, which sportswear, fragrance and home, at current exchange], yet a box de- tect Bruno Moinard, who last year building will be dedicated to men, oversees higher-priced brands, in that order. signed by Hermès for Leica sold out revamped the women’s fashion and adding one extra floor, bringing the and the product will be distrib- Woodhouse said he’s pleased instantly at our Leica counter. And it luxury floor. total number to four,” said Daher. uted to better department and with the company’s performance cost 22,000 euros [$28,487.80].” Behind a discreet gray door, The changes to the Boulevard specialty stores. since it was acquired at the end Although Daher would not di- a VIP lounge has been set up for Haussmann flagship are taking “Hart Schaffner and Hickey of last year. “Being an old retailer, vulge any figures about the per- high-end watch shoppers, who may place against a broader backdrop haven’t been as penetrated in it’s all about making the cash reg- formance of its men’s division, he eye haute horlogerie pieces from of sprucing up at department [furnishings] as in clothing, so we isters ring,” he said. “The lines said, “We are already above our Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tag Heuer or stores in the French capital. see a huge opportunity with their are checking at retail and the fall budget, meaning we have sold IWC that fetch up to 200,000 euros, After having already put a existing retail base,” Sirkin said. bookings are healthy, so [Authentic more than expected, and we have or $259,060. greater focus on men’s luxury foot- Price points for ties will Brands ceo] Jamie Salter and I are wear and leather goods, last month range from $69.50 to $135, pocket very happy so far.” Printemps freshened up its men’s squares will be $40 to $80, and Mitchell Lechner, president of division with an exclusive selec- bow ties will retail for $50 to $95. PVH’s dress furnishings and licens- tion of new brands, including McQ, The prices for the other products ing division, said: “We are excited T by Alexander Wang, YMC and haven’t been finalized, Sirkin said. about our partnership with ABG Kitsuné Tee, aiming to attract the Nick Woodhouse, president of for the Hickey Freeman and Hart 21st-century urban male. Authentic Brands, said the dress Schaffner Marx brands. These are Le Bon Marché, on the Left shirts had previously been pro- outstanding brands with a tradi- Bank, unveiled its new men’s floor duced by HMX directly, “but we tion of excellence that comple- last fall. The upscale department knew we needed someone with ment our current portfolio. Hickey store features a barber shop, a PVH’s bandwidth to really do this Freeman and Hart Schaffner Marx shoe-shine stand and a dedicated correctly.” He stressed that this were founded on the principles of concierge, in addition to a selection should not be construed as a pre- authenticity, quality, elegance and of ready-to-wear and accessories cursor to also licensing out the pro- innovation. The addition of these located in the Art Deco building’s duction of HMX’s tailored cloth- brands will allow us to bring in- basement. That area was recently ing brands. “I can’t stress enough novative product, a new design linked to a new wine cellar on the that Made in the USA is the hall- aesthetic, as well as a strong dress opposite side of the street, home to mark of these brands, and that shirt and neckwear synergy to the La Grande Epicerie, a prestigious won’t change,” Woodhouse said. better specialty retailers.” address for gourmet shoppers. Hampshire Cuts Quarterly Loss HAMPSHIRE GROUP LTD. Buxbaum also serves as chairman Man of reduced its net loss in the fourth and ceo of Buxbaum Group, a THE WEEK MICHAEL BLOOMBERG: C+ quarter despite a decline in California-based firm specializing sales at its Rio Garment unit and in restructuring and liquidation  the winding down of its Geoffrey services which has been retained Beene and Joe Joseph Abboud to advise Hampshire on matters At a certain age, you Now that his licensed businesses. involving its organization, opera- need to choose between Bangs are a trend. He might need In the three months ended tions and expenses. The agree- supersize your abs and your face. a change of hairstyle to cover his Dec. 31, the net loss was pared to ment with Buxbaum commenced The sunken cheeks are prominent forehead. $1.5 million, or 20 cents a diluted on Jan. 16 and runs through May soda ban has too pronounced, making share, from a loss of $6.3 million, 16. Buxbaum Group will receive him look like Skeletor. been derailed, or 94 cents, in the prior-year pe- a fee of $75,000 a month, or a A good amount of filler A droopy shoulder riod. The net loss for continuing total of $300,000, for its services. New York would go a long way. indicates he’s dropped operations fell to $1.6 million from According to the company’s an- City’s mayor a size. Time for a visit a loss of $7.2 million. The 2011 nual report, filed with the SEC The turkey neck can be to Paul Stuart. figures included a $6.3 million on March 18, Buxbaum will re- has turned avoided by being wearing pretax loss on a lease obligation ceive no direct compensation for a shirt with a higher stemming from a dispute with the his service as Hampshire’s ceo. to cigarettes collar stance. He should landlord of its New York offices. Through the sale of Rio, Buxbaum WEEK N O instead, look at photos of Karl I Sales in the quarter dropped became a major shareholder in Lagerfeld for a hint. Pastel blue ties are SH 11.3 percent to $40.5 million from Hampshire, with the most recent FA

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proposing that N $45.7 million in the 2011 quarter tally of his holdings listed at 1.77 E

even for grooms. But B The one inch of shirt cu" as revenues declined at Rio, the million shares, representing a 23.8 they be hidden in his case, it totally Honduras manufacturer acquired percent stake. shows his mathematical EDES-

washes him out. He RC from view at business precision. in August 2011, and in the Abboud “Previous management began

would look so much ME and Beene segments. Gross mar- the transition of our business,” R sharper in a navy tie. stores. Although FO gin improved to 20.1 percent of Buxbaum said following the dis- The oversize pleated ES sales from 18 percent in the prior- closure of quarterly and year-end

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pants are a very Nineties I year quarter and registered a sim- results. “Throughout 2012, we supersized, dress code and continue ilar improvement for the full year. completed the wind-down of two to be one of the great Paul Buxbaum, one of the prin- legacy licenses and focused our O/GETTY

it’s big enough mysteries of men’s AN cipals of Rio prior to its acquisi- resources towards the Dockers S tion by Hampshire, succeeded and Panama Jack licenses as well clothing choices. CCI O

to be banned L There is something Heath Golden as chief executive as our Rio Garment business. As a EL called the skinny suit A officer of the company in January result of this transition, we oper- from fashion H everywhere. Even Paul IC and, according to a Securities ate a very different business today M

industry events. Stuart has Phineas Cole. BY and Exchange Commission fil- than we have in recent years and ing earlier this month, added the must organize accordingly.”

PHOTO title of president on March 12. — ARNOLD J. KARR

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